DIY plumbing in a new building. Tee and collector distribution of water supply pipes in an apartment: diagrams and installation

Water supply is one of the life support systems in a modern apartment; it is quite difficult to imagine life without running water in an apartment. The time comes when collector wiring The water supply pipes in the apartment require replacement for some reason. And then the apartment owners ask themselves: how to install water supply in the apartment and is it possible to replace it themselves? Of course you can, because these days on the market you can easily find a wide variety of tools and materials that will help you carry out this event on your own.

There are quite a few options for water pipes, the main difference being the material from which they are made. The materials for such pipes can be metal, plastic and metal-plastic. Each type of material, like any plumbing fixture, has its pros and cons:

1. Cink Steel. This material is quite durable. The service life of products made from this material can reach 25 years. The protective zinc coating prevents the effects of corrosion on the pipes. But due to mechanical stress, the layer may be damaged and then areas with damaged zinc coating may begin to rust.
2. Stainless steel. A material characterized by durability and strength. The service life can sometimes reach up to half a century. Products made from this material are resistant to mechanical stress and corrosion. The main disadvantage of such products is, perhaps, their high price.
3. Copper. Copper pipes are quite durable and do not corrode. Copper is a rather expensive material, and in addition, it requires the use of fittings made of the same material, the price of which, by the way, is quite high. The service life of these pipes can reach up to 70 years. Copper pipes can also become a very original interior decoration.
4. Metal-plastic. Products made of metal-plastic are excellently characterized by such parameters as high corrosion resistance and low price. In addition, pipes made of this material have such a pleasant feature as resistance to salt deposits on the internal walls, as well as the accumulation of debris on them. The service life of metal-plastic products is about 30 years. The main disadvantage of products made from this material is low thermal stability (the water temperature in the system should not be more than 95°C).
5. Polyethylene (PE) Products made from this material are distinguished by a fairly high strength coefficient and are quite easy to install. But you need to remember that these pipes are extremely undesirable to use for the construction of hot water pipes, due to the low heat resistance of polyethylene. But for cold water supply in a private home, polyethylene products will be an ideal option; pipes made from this material are often used to install a sewerage system. The service life of polyethylene pipes is 30 years.
6. Polypropylene (PP). A material that combines qualities such as strength and durability, the service life of products made from this material is 50 years. Products made from polypropylene are not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion, and the inner surface of the walls is quite smooth, which prevents the formation of salt deposits. Installation of these pipes is done using a welding machine. For hot water supply, reinforced PP pipes are installed.

What diameter should the pipes be?

1. The most extreme point should have a double head reserve.
2. Turbulation may occur in pipes with a cross-section of 12 mm. Typically, this phenomenon occurs at the entrance to the riser, where the normal pressure reading can reach from 1.5 to 4.5 atmospheres. In a structure made of pipes with a diameter of 16 mm, turbulence does not occur even at the same pressure values.
3. Pressure loss per unit of pipeline fittings and connecting elements is approximately equal to 0.15 atmospheres.
4. Polypropylene pipes with a 16 mm cross-section have a loss of 0.05 atmospheres per 1 meter of structure.
5. The minimum permissible pressure during the working process should be 0.3 atmospheres.

A fairly important indicator is the inlet pressure value. Based on its features, the entrance has its own pressure indicators. This characteristic determines whether the pressure in the structure will be sufficient for long-range devices. If you wish, you can find out the total pressure in the riser by going down to the basement of the house and looking at the pressure gauge. This value need to be divided by the number of floors, the resulting value will be an approximate indicator of the inlet pressure for one apartment.

In addition, there is an indication that determines the nonlinear dependence of pressure losses inside the water supply system. The main parameter that determines this value is the speed of fluid flow through the pipes. It depends on the diameter of the pipes; even a small increase in diameter, the loss rate drops significantly.

Important! In difficult situations, experts advise determining the pipe layout using as a guide building codes and rules (SNiP). Moreover, you can always turn to a professional for help, who will make the necessary calculations and determine the optimal pipe diameter for a particular situation.

Quite popular is the wiring of cold and hot water in an apartment, which takes into account all indicators of losses and reduces them as much as possible - this is the installation of a water supply pipe in the apartment, which has a cross-section of 20 mm with bends to pipes of 16 mm in cross-section.

Types of water supply wiring

In apartments, independent implementation of water supply wiring can be of the following types:

• open;
• closed.

The open type of water distribution involves installing pipes on the walls, and the closed type - in the walls. Usually the question of which wiring to choose is raised when the room has a fairly small usable area, and open type wiring will reduce the already cramped space. If the room is spacious enough, you can use the type of wiring that is most convenient for you. Let's consider all the positive and negative sides each type of wiring.

Advantages of hidden wiring:

• aesthetics (plumbing does not spoil the interior);
• increase in usable area (visually and physically);
• protection of the structure from external influences (for example, fire).

Disadvantages of hidden wiring:

• limitation on the type of materials (not every type of product is suitable for laying inside the wall);
• lengthy preparation with making grooves in the walls and somewhat more complex installation;
• during operation, difficulties may arise in identifying leaks;
• Difficulty in carrying out preventive inspections of the pipeline.

Pipes that will be installed inside the walls will not spoil the external aesthetics of the interior, but some difficulties may arise during their maintenance.

Advantages of the open method:

• for this type of wiring, pipes made of any material are suitable;
• more easy installation, compared to the closed type;
• there is no unnecessary hassle during maintenance and dismantling;
• leak locations can be easily identified;
• If necessary, additional devices can be added to the system.

Disadvantages of open wiring:

• reduces the usable area of ​​the room;
• sometimes it may not fit into the design of the room, spoiling the design;
• exposure to external influences that may render some parts of the pipeline unusable.

The wiring diagram also comes in two types:

• sequential (tee);
• collector

The tee circuit is more common and is performed by connecting a tee to a common water supply. This design is quite reliable and easy to install. In the event of any accident, as a rule, it is necessary to turn off the water in the entire apartment. But this problem can be solved by installing shut-off valves for each plumbing fixture.

The biggest drawback can be considered that when using several taps, the pressure drops in a system installed with your own hands using a tee circuit. The plumbing collector does not have such a drawback, which has a positive effect on its operation.

The collector layout of water pipes in an apartment involves parallel connection of all plumbing fixtures to a common water supply (collector). Each point is equipped with a valve, which allows you to regulate the pressure in the system. Due to the parallel connection, the system eliminates pressure drops and pressure drops when several taps are opened. Installation similar design more complex, but the result is worth the effort.

Important! Regardless of which water supply manifold scheme has been chosen, it is necessary to minimize the number of connections and bends in the system. Also, you need to remember that the cold and hot water pipes in the apartment with your own hands should not have any intersections.

How to make water supply wiring yourself?

The installation of the entire system also has some non-construction features, such as gating and organization of channels in the screed. The latter should be no more than 150 mm from the wall and no less than 200 mm from the furniture. Before making the wiring, that is, before starting to lay pipes, all plumbing fixtures must be removed.

First of all, arcs must be installed - plastic strips with MPB angles for mixers. They are fastened using self-tapping screws in dowels to the main wall. During fastening, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the finish: tiles, plaster or any other decor. It is quite difficult to ensure that the outlet pipes are flush with the wall if you do not have sufficient experience in construction.

Most a good option will make them protrude slightly above the finish, half the width of the side of the decorative faucet caps: if the caps are non-adjustable, they can easily be adjusted using an emery wheel or manually using an emery block for this purpose.

The next stage is the assembly of pipeline sections. It will be most convenient to do this on the table, and then place it entirely in the grooves. But the problem arises of running pipes through walls. In the case of metal-plastic pipes, a problem should not arise, since the entire structure is made of detachable fittings, but if the structure is assembled from soldered pipes, there are two ways to lay them through the walls:

1. Using MPH/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. For an apartment this is a fairly reliable option. In the corners above the grooves, you can make special removable hatches that will serve for repair and inspection of threaded connections.
2. Local pipeline installation. This is where a compact soldering iron comes to the rescue. This method is somewhat more expensive, and the work must be done with cotton gloves to prevent accidental burns.

Next comes pipe cutting. Sawing is strictly not recommended, especially if the pipes are made of metal-plastic, this can negatively affect the reliability of the connections. Cutting should be carried out using a pipe cutter, and you must remember that for plastic and metal-plastic pipes this tool is completely different.

The fourth stage is soldering. One soldering takes 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you will need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 – 630 mm, etc.

The fifth point concerns bending of metal-plastic pipes. The minimum permissible bending radius should be 5 outer diameters of the pipe. Some “experts” advise sticking a spring inside or filling it with sand, and then you can bend it at an angle, pull out the spring, and pick out the sand using a wire hook.

Do not follow these recommendations under any circumstances; after such operations, the pipe coating deteriorates, residual stresses arise in it, which are much higher than permissible, and the metal-plastic pipe itself acquires the characteristics of a rusted one. steel pipe very low quality.

Now, direct installation of the water pipeline in the apartment. The pipeline is changed in a strictly defined sequence. Work “on the fly” and “by eye” with insufficient qualifications quite often ends in leaks:

1. After the water is shut off, the old riser is dismantled and a shut-off valve is installed in its place. This is done in order to open water to neighbors and continue installing their own water supply.
2. To improve water quality, it is recommended to install a special filter.
3. Next, a water meter is installed. Installation must be done very carefully so that the manufacturer's seal is not accidentally broken. If the seal is broken, the water meter will be considered invalid.
4. Next comes the installation of the water supply manifold and ball valves at the outlets.
5. The final stage is connecting plumbing fixtures and checking the operation of the system.

Now you know how to make your own plumbing. It is worth noting that this work It is not particularly complicated, but it must be done carefully and accurately.

There may be several reasons for re-equipping an apartment’s water supply system.

In older houses, worn-out plumbing may pose a risk of bursting, metal pipes, laid externally, spoil the aesthetics of the bathroom.

IN modern houses Residents often have a desire to remodel their bathroom and install a better, more reliable and modern water supply system.

The easiest way out, if it is necessary to install a water supply system, is to invite a specialist to carry out the work, however, the services of a professional are not cheap, and there is always the possibility of choosing an unscrupulous contractor.

With certain skills and knowledge, installing a water supply system with your own hands can be quite feasible; this will allow you to save money, perform the work with the highest possible quality and in compliance with all technical conditions.

Main stages

Any construction or sanitary work should begin with careful planning.

It is necessary to identify all the requirements for the new water supply system, take into account the features of the apartment and bathroom layout, and decide on the choice of sanitary equipment.

Water supply work can be divided into the following stages:

1. Drawing up a water supply wiring diagram.
2. Calculation of the required amount of material.
3. Purchase of material.
4. Dismantling old wiring.
5. Installation of a new system.
6. Check the system for leaks and other malfunctions.

Pipes

At the system planning stage, it is necessary to determine the material for the future system.

Currently, for the installation of internal water supply they use different kinds pipelines:

Important point: during installation polypropylene pipes The coefficient of thermal expansion should be taken into account, especially for hot water carriers.

For example, an unreinforced pipe with a temperature change of 50C will receive a linear elongation equal to 7.5 mm per meter. During installation, provision should be made to compensate for these increases. (You can read about how to properly weld polypropylene pipes).

Scheme

There are two main schemes for distributing water supply in apartments:

1. Tee type circuit. With this design, a pipe is removed from the riser, into the gap of which each consumer is connected through tees. Such a system is also called sequential.
2. Collector type circuit. Consumers are connected to the pipe through a manifold (a special device with the required number of outputs for each consumer). The convenience of this scheme is that the collector has a shut-off valve at each outlet. This allows you to turn off each water intake unit separately for repair or maintenance without shutting off the entire system, while the remaining units can be used without restrictions. Also, with this scheme, a more uniform distribution of pressure occurs.

Laying methods

Note: When laying hidden, care should be taken to ensure the quality of the pipes and the reliability of the connections. A break or leak inside a wall can cause a lot of trouble.

The installation of the system should begin with the installation of a shut-off valve that shuts off the water supply from the riser to the apartment.

Also, filters for water purification are installed at the entrance, in front of the meters, this will significantly extend the service life of pipes and plumbing equipment.

Expert advice: shut-off valves must be installed in front of each consumer; this simplifies further maintenance and repair of units.

After installation is completed, it is necessary to turn on the water supply to the system and carefully check all connections for leaks; if found, repair them and check again.

With some knowledge and necessary tool, everyone will be able to carry out high-quality plumbing in an apartment on their own, while saving significant financial resources.

Watch the video in which an experienced user explains in detail how to install water pipes in an apartment with your own hands:

Installing plumbing in a private home is a complex and responsible job, but doable. By choosing the right materials and wiring diagram, you can carry out all the plumbing work yourself, without involving hired workers. But for beginners who do not have relevant experience, it is advisable to enlist the help of a professional.

Where to start installing a water supply system?

The installation of any water supply system is based on the selected wiring diagram. Only after it has been compiled can you begin selecting materials and proceed directly to installation. Also at the planning stage it is decided how many water points (or users) there will be in the house. This will determine which system to prefer - manifold or tee.

Which circuit is better - collector or tee?

The tee layout of water pipes implies them serial connection to the common riser. So, one pipe is connected to the cold and hot water pipes. With the help of tees, additional pipes are diverted to individual users, and the pipe itself ends with the connection of the last water collection point.

The advantages of this solution:

• ease of installation - no special knowledge is required when connecting additional elements;
• low cost - half as many pipes are used;
• compactness - tees are connected directly near water points.

But there are also disadvantages - when all users turn on at the same time, the pressure in the system drops significantly, and connecting a new point is quite problematic (you will have to install another tee).

The collector water supply system is characterized by a parallel connection of users, when a special splitter - a collector - is connected to the pipes for discharging cold and hot water from the riser. And each water supply point is connected to this collector.

Advantages of the collector system:

• convenience - all connection points are collected in one place;
• reliability – one pipe goes to each user, which minimizes the risk of leaks;
• pressure stability - the same pressure is supplied to each point in the manifold, so even turning on all the taps at the same time will not lead to a loss of pressure.

The disadvantages include high cost due to increased consumption of materials and the need to allocate space for connecting collectors.

The right scheme is the key to success

To avoid having to redo half of the water supply system because several key elements were forgotten during installation, it is very important to draw up the wiring diagram correctly. It must include all water points, passages and valves. The diagram shows the diameters of the pipes, the location of the water heater and pump (if the water comes from a well or borehole).

Having decided everything controversial issues at the planning stage, you can avoid annoying mistakes in the future. This will also allow you to calculate in advance the required length of pipes and the number of all fittings and tees.

Moreover, it works effectively even when connected to centralized water supply. For example, if the water is turned off, there will still be 200 liters of water left in the storage tank, which is enough for household needs. And even if there is a power outage, the tank located 4 m above the water consumers will provide a pressure of 0.4 atm, which is quite enough for water to flow from the mixers by gravity.

The scheme is quite simple:

1. To main water pipe the storage tank is connected. If water comes from central water supply pipes with variable pressure, an additional pump will have to be installed at the inlet, which will provide constant water pressure.
2. To protect the pump from burnout in the absence of water, a dry running sensor is installed that turns off the power.
3. If the water comes from a well, only install pumping station after the tank - to ensure constant pressure at water points. It is advisable to choose stations with already installed burnout protection. Otherwise, it is also necessary to install a dry running sensor - to turn off the station when the water in the tank runs out.
4. It is important to provide protection against overfilling in the storage tank - for example, a float switch.
5. The routing of pipes from the tank is often tee, since this option is chosen for houses with a maximum of 5 users (shower, washbasin, toilet, washing machine and a kitchen sink).

Selection of pipes - their size and material

For water supply pipes are used from:

• copper is an ideal choice, but quite expensive;
• reinforced polypropylene (PP) – installation requires special welding machine(you can even rent it daily);
• steel - corrosion and the need for threading make such pipes unpopular;
• metal plastic – different excellent value price and quality, but can withstand temperatures only up to 95 degrees (this must be taken into account when choosing a water heater and what output temperature it gives).

Copper pipes will “outlast” even the foundation of a house, but if the budget is limited, you can choose PP or metal-plastic. At the same time, only reinforced polypropylene is used for hot water - the central reinforcing layer is visible on the cut.

This is much more reliable than compression fittings, which will have to be tightened every year, and still they will soon begin to leak.

For laying street water supply, you can use both PP pipes and HDPE. The former are used if underground connection of pipe parts is necessary, while the latter are laid in a continuous piece.

The pipe itself must have a marking (size, GOST) - pipes without markings indicate their low quality.

• incoming water pipe – 32 mm;
• riser pipe – 25 mm;
• branch pipes from the riser – 20 mm;
• branch pipes to devices – 16 mm.

But at the same time, you need to take into account the diameter of the connection of the devices. So, often boilers have an inch pipe outlet (25 mm), this must be taken into account at the stage of purchasing the boiler and components. Besides, instantaneous water heaters are sensitive to pressure in the system, so it is advisable to connect 20 mm pipes to them.

Pump or pumping station?

If central water supply no, and water has to be taken from a well or well, each owner faces the question of choosing a pump. The pumping station can lift water to a height of no more than 9 m (the horizontal length of the pipes does not matter). Therefore, it is suitable for most wells or shallow wells. Its advantages are the presence of a hydraulic accumulator and defense mechanism from burnout.

If the depth of the aquifer is below 9 meters, there is only one way out - a submersible pump. It provides stable and strong water pressure, but you will have to independently install an automatic system that protects against burnout and a storage tank. The latter is optional, but increases the life of the pump.

Installation of water supply

The installation of the water supply system itself is not particularly difficult:

1. Markings are made for laying the future water supply system - on the walls, in the screed or under the ceiling.
2. Holes are made in the walls or pipes are laid in the floor screed. IN the latter case pipes should be no further than 15 cm from the wall and no closer than 20 cm from future furniture.



3. It is much easier to carry out external wiring, where the pipes are attached to the wall with special clips. It is important to remember that polypropylene pipes cannot be fixed rigidly - they must be provided with the ability to expand during temperature changes.



4. The clips are placed at a distance of 1-2 m from each other. If you need to fix a pipe of large diameter or weight, clamps are used for reliability.
5. When laying externally, pipes through walls and ceilings must pass in sleeves - covers made of non-flammable material, filled with a sealant (for example, mineral wool). This is done to reduce noise when water passes through. The sleeve can be cut to the level of the walls and ceiling, but it must protrude 3 cm above the finished floor.



6. Special strips (sockets) for mixers are attached to the wall. Without much construction experience“recessing” them into the wall so that the outlet pipes are flush with the wall will not work. Therefore, they can be left protruding - the decorative caps of the mixer will cover them.





7. The assembly of the pipeline can take place both “in weight” and on the table, when the assembled parts are simply placed into the holes made. As practice shows, the latter is only possible with a very well-designed wiring diagram. Otherwise, you will still have to adjust the parts “in place”.
8. Cutting pipes must be carried out with a special pipe cutter - you cannot saw them, the connection will be unreliable. In this case, polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes are cut with different tools.







9. If you need to lay a curved “route”, metal-plastic pipes can only be bent with a radius that is at least 5 outer diameters of the pipe. Otherwise, the service life of the pipe cannot be predicted. Fittings are used for corner connections.

The principle of working with polypropylene pipes, their soldering and installation are shown in detail in the video:

There are two types of pipe routing - collector and parallel.

Before you start drawing the layout of pipes and the position of water distribution points, you need to determine what equipment you plan to install:

Kitchen – cold and hot water mixer, dishwasher, water heater, gas boiler, geyser

Bathroom – shower, bathtub, sink, bidet, toilet, washing machine, water heater.

Even if at the moment there is no money to purchase, for example, a shower stall, it is better to think through the connections for its connection in advance.

Sequential plumbing.

Serial wiring is also called tee wiring, because it is mounted in a single line and the wiring from the common pipe to the plumbing fixtures is carried out using tees and elbows.

The disadvantage of such wiring is that it is impossible to shut off a separate connection, and the likelihood that the overall water pressure will decrease when several plumbing fixtures are operating.

Pros: simple and quick installation, low cost of components compared to manifold wiring.

Sequential routing of water supply pipes

(red shows the distribution of hot water, blue - cold).

Wiring of polypropylene pipes and installation of water sockets.

Collector distribution of water supply pipes

Most often, such wiring is installed where it is planned to hide pipes under plaster or decorative panels, run pipes underground, or embed them in a concrete floor screed.

The advantage of collector wiring is that each consumer (plumbing fixture) has its own separate line, which departs from the common collector. With such an isolation, you can close off a single point at any time without harming other devices. With this decoupling, the water is evenly distributed, so the pressure (pressure) at all points will be the same.

The only disadvantage of such a system is the price, which includes a significant amount of pipes and fittings, as well as manifolds (distribution manifolds) with shut-off valves.

Collector water distribution - diagram.

Hot and cold water with shut-off valves,water filters, copper pipe connections.

Selection of material for installation

The choice of material is influenced by how the installation will take place, how the pipes will be laid - closed or hidden, ease of installation, i.e. the ability to do all the work yourself. Price is also an important factor.

Many sources still indicate that water pipes can be made with metal, but needless to say, this is already a thing of the past. And that there are a lot of good durable materials on the plumbing market that are quite easy to install and have for a long time services, reliable, harmless, i.e. are perfect for drinking water supply, and have a very nice appearance.

Below is a table with comparative characteristics of pipes used in the installation of water supply.

Pipe material	pipe price (rub)	fittings price	additional tool	complexity installation
				skill required
Stainless steel				Requires skill
Metal-plastic			+ / -	Easily
Polypropylene				Easily
Polyethylene				Easily

Installation of water supply pipes

Although there are two different schemes wiring, but in practice they usually use either a series circuit or a combined series-collector circuit. The most simple materials In terms of installation of water supply distribution, polypropylene, metal-plastic, cross-linked polyethylene pipes and copper are considered.

Outdoor installation of water supply– pipes run along the walls. For open installation, polypropylene pipes are most often used.

Hidden installation water supply - pipes are laid in grooves and hidden with plaster, in a concrete screed, in the underground.

The routing of water supply pipes starts from the entry point, i.e. source of water supply - pumping station, hydraulic accumulator, pressure tank, central water supply pipe entry.

The common supply pipe must have a diameter of at least an inch to ensure minimal pressure loss.

It is mandatory to install a coarse water filter and a shut-off valve.

Next, the installation of pipe routing begins according to the selected scheme, i.e. Pipes are installed in the bathroom, kitchen, and laundry room. If piping starts at ground floor and the heating boiler is located there, then a separate exit to the boiler is made.

For sequential wiring, if you do not plan to hide it with decorative panels and a box, it is recommended to install the pipes 15–30 cm above the baseboard. Thus, the pipes will be inconspicuous and in some places hidden by plumbing fixtures.

When laying through walls and ceilings, pipes should be protected from damage. To do this, a casing pipe or a special collar is placed in the hole.

The pipes are fixed using special clips, plastic and metal clamps.

Installation with polypropylene pipes

You will need a soldering device with nozzles; pipe cutter; calibrator; fittings – tees, couplings, elbows, crosses, shut-off valves; clips corresponding to the diameter of the pipes (needed for fixing pipes along the walls); pipes with diameters of 1 inch and ¾.

To supply water to plumbing fixtures in a private home, it is best to use ¾ pipes. This is due to the fact that when marking polypropylene pipes, the outer diameter is indicated. For example, if the pipe is 1 inch, this does not mean that there will be an inch passage inside, it will be the outer diameter, and, accordingly, the internal passage will be much narrower due to the thickness of the walls.

A compensator is not required for the water supply system.

Installation is carried out sequentially. Pipes are easy to cut and solder. The cut part of the pipe should be calibrated and cleared of internal burrs using a knife. After soldering, a characteristic bead should form.

For connections of polypropylene with pipes made of other materials and for installation of water sockets, combined fittings with metal threads are used.

Polypropylene pipes and fittings.

Compound.

Installation with metal-plastic pipes

Such pipes are used for both open and hidden installation.

When open, you can use press fittings (not dismountable) and clamp fittings (dismountable).

When hidden - only press fittings.

This is due to the fact that the clamp fittings weaken over time and require tightening with a wrench.

For installation you will need: 1 inch and ¾ pipes; fittings – elbows, couplings, adapters, tees, crosses; pipe cutter; calibrator; press tool for press fittings (can be rented); wrench for clamp fittings.

Metal-plastic pipes are sold in long-length coils, therefore, when laying pipes under screed or under plaster, it is advisable to use a solid pipe.

Installation of connections using threaded fittings.

Pipes and press fittings.

Installation with copper pipes

You will need - ¾ and ½ inch pipes (copper pipes have thin walls); gas-burner; a hacksaw and a metal brush for cleaning; flux paste; solder; fittings - adapters, elbows, crosses, tees, couplings, water sockets.

Installation of connections using soldering.

The end of the pipe and the inside of the fitting are lubricated with a thin layer of flux

The fitting is put on the pipe until it stops

The connection is heated until the color of the pipe changes

Soldering copper pipes.

For open pipe laying, non-annealed pipes are used, for hidden pipes, annealed pipes are used (they bend easily).

Installation with cross-linked polyethylene pipes

These pipes are easy and simple to install, but you will need a special crimping tool for installing cross-linked polyethylene pipes, which can be rented; pipe cutter; calibrator; brass or PPSU (polyphenylsulfone) fittings - tees, couplings, adapters, elbows; inch and 3/4 diameter pipes.

Installation of connections.

1. A sliding sleeve is placed on the pipe

   Using a press tool, the sleeve is pulled onto the “pipe-fitting” connection - the connection is permanent and very strong. Such connections can be embedded under screed or plaster.

When choosing pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, you should pay attention to their markings, i.e. suitability for drinking water supply.



Installation of connections.



Pipes and fittings.

And one more very important point that you should pay attention to after the water supply scheme is ready and the selection and purchase of materials begins - this is quality!

You should not save money and purchase cheap pipes and fittings of dubious quality. The water supply system must be reliable, durable, durable and airtight. And this applies not only to hidden installation, but also to open installation.

Materials should be purchased in specialized stores that provide a guarantee for the product and provide a quality certificate for all products.

Before anyone major repairs Careful pre-planning is required. The plumbing layout deserves special attention. Installation errors lead to serious troubles, including a global restructuring of communications. Before starting work, you should decide on the type of wiring, necessary materials and learn the basic rules of the assembly process.

Main types of plumbing systems

Depending on how accessible communications are for repair, the following types of systems are distinguished:

In the second case, it is quite difficult to find out about the leak that has arisen - usually the neighbors below, if any, notice it first.

Problems closed system may lead to destruction or deformation of the outer covering.

Delivery of water to the consumer from main pipeline can be performed in several ways:

• collector water supply - a parallel connection method in which each element has its own connection to the collector;
• tee circuit - all elements are connected to the common line in series through tees.

The scheme with a collector, just like the tee distribution of water supply, has its advantages and disadvantages.

Features of the tee circuit

The essence of this method of water supply wiring is the serial connection of the elements of plumbing communications in the apartment, that is, one pipeline leads from the riser, to which other devices that consume water are connected through tees.

Advantages of the tee method:

• cost savings - the number of connecting fittings is reduced to a minimum;
• easy installation job.

The method has its disadvantages:

• difficult to find leaks due to the large number of connections;
• high probability of a change in the system pressure level, and therefore a decrease in the current water pressure in pipelines remote from the riser;
• during repairs, it is necessary to turn off all water supply;
• inconvenient installation of water supply in an apartment when the room has a small area.

Several nearby consumption points reduce the risk of pressure surges. During installation, as a rule, hidden installation of tees is chosen, as a result of which inspection and repair of communications is difficult.

Features of the collector circuit

The collector layout of water supply pipes in an apartment allows you to connect a decent number of consumption points without reducing the pressure in each. This method involves parallel connection of elements to the collector via a personal outlet with a valve.

Advantages of this connection method:

• simple fault diagnosis;
• constant pressure value on all connected equipment;
• high reliability due to the small number of connections;
• the aesthetic appearance is ensured by the fact that the connection lines can be simply hidden in special boxes or niches;
• the ability to turn off the water supply on a separate branch in order to repair the water supply system in the apartment.

Experts include the following disadvantages of the method:

• to install the system, it is necessary to purchase a large amount of connecting fittings;
• difficulty of installation.

Collective water supply optimizes the operation of all devices of water supply consumers.

A filter and pressure regulator are optionally installed on any individual outlet.

Necessary equipment

A typical plumbing installation consists of a series of mandatory elements necessary for normal operation of communications. Most of them are located in a plumbing cabinet, which, in turn, is mounted next to the mains entry area.

A standard water supply system in an apartment includes the following list of necessary elements:

• Indigenous shut-off valves- used to separate networks from common house networks. The element performs two tasks - opening and blocking the flow of water. In most cases, the usual is enough ball valve from a trusted manufacturer.
  
• Regulating devices - pressure reducers, as well as check valves. The task of the former is to limit the pressure of the local network and protect against water hammer.
  
  
  Check valves are used to set the direction of water flow. The device prevents liquid from draining into the main line, as well as stopping its supply.
  
• Distributor collectors - any collector water supply system of a private house contains this element. Structurally, the models differ in the number of bends (minimum 2) and the diameter of the pipes.
  
• Filtration units - include coarse and fine filters, as well as a hydromagnetic system (transfers some of the impurities from water into colloidal suspensions).
  
• Metering devices - the specific model and installation method are consistent with management company. Depending on the type, meters are manufactured with universal or horizontal installation.
  
• Pressure gauges - it is recommended to install them at the inlet and after the filters. Pressure surges can be used to diagnose wear on screens or cartridges.
  
• Connecting fittings - successful installation of water supply pipes in an apartment requires experience and preliminary calculations.

Additionally, emergency equipment can be installed to protect against leaks. Such equipment is made either with a mechanical or electromechanical drive.

How to draw a water supply diagram in an apartment?

First you need to decide on the connection method - serial or parallel laying of communications. After this, you need to make a list of all the devices that you plan to include in it. A well-designed diagram will help you accurately calculate the pipe footage and the number of different fittings. In addition, installation time is significantly reduced and the risk of error is reduced.

When calculating circuits, specialists use specialized standards. If there is such an opportunity, it is recommended to order the work from professionals, but if necessary, you can draw up a diagram yourself. The final plan must include the following items:

• location of water pipes;
• shut-off valves;
• direction of water flows;
• emergency valves and drains;
• parsing points indicating each consumer;
• metering devices;
• reserve branches and equipment.

Pipeline calculation

Before installing pipes in an apartment, you should calculate the diameter of the pipeline, which depends on the maximum pressure at the end point. The calculation is performed based on the following factors:

• the minimum permissible pressure value for the end user is 0.3 atm;
• every meter plastic pipe(diameter 16 mm) loses 0.05 atm;
• each fitting and fittings reduces pressure by 0.15 atm;
• 0.25 atm is lost in the accounting unit.

An excessively small diameter can cause turbulence in the water flow.

At the remote point, a double reserve must be provided. The pressure on the riser can be determined from the readings on a pressure gauge, which is usually installed in the basement of the building. Each floor of the building reduces the value by approximately 0.6 atm. Some high-rise buildings are equipped with a separate riser for individual groups of floors. All figures given are approximate and directly depend on the specific equipment model.

Typical installation mistakes

Installing a water supply system in an apartment with your own hands in accordance with all modern standards is quite a difficult task for a non-specialist. To avoid most mistakes, professionals recommend:

• install shut-off valves at the entrance to each branch of the system and in front of the plumbing equipment;
• insulate hot water pipes if hidden installation in ceilings or floors is planned;
• during installation, close the openings of uninstalled pipes;
• carry out soldering in a clean room;
• check pipes for moisture and dirt before soldering;
• do not block access to the connecting sections of the system with water supply.

Following these tips will greatly facilitate the work of maintaining and repairing communications.

Conclusion

Installing water supply in an apartment is a non-trivial task, which is quite difficult to solve without prior planning. A properly designed communication scheme, a well-thought-out bathroom structure, as well as high-quality materials and equipment guarantee the success of the entire event. Careful design significantly reduces the risk of failure and the likelihood repair work in subsequent years.