home Boilers Diagram of a heating unit for a private house. Closed water heating system

Diagram of a heating unit for a private house. Closed water heating system

When building a private house, one of the most important stages is the installation of a heating system, because the comfort and coziness of the household depends on this. Fortunately, today the market offers various options for arranging a heating system. In supermarkets you can easily purchase equipment, materials and tools that may be needed during installation work.

Many owners, who already spend a lot of money on construction, seek to save money and take on the task of completing some of the stages with their own hands. You can set up a heating system if you have at least the slightest idea of what it is, how it works, and what it should consist of. Of course, it is better to first consult with a professional who will help you calculate and choose the most profitable and effective options in each specific case.

Before choosing a heating system for a private home, you need to find answers to a number of questions. It is necessary to take into account the parameters of the house, the number of storeys, the total area and size of each of the heated rooms, determine where the boiler will be located, which unit to install, which coolant. All elements of the heating system are available in the construction supermarket, however, you will have to assemble them yourself.

Today, two types of heating systems are actively used: open and closed. Open or gravity consists of the following elements:

boiler where the coolant is heated;
expansion tank;
radiators;
heating pipes.

The main role in open systems is played by gravity, under the influence of which the heated coolant from the boiler spreads over the batteries. The main advantage of this option is its energy independence. As for the disadvantages, there are more of them: the system warms up slowly, the coolant constantly evaporates from the expansion tank, and the latter must be located at the highest point of the system.

A closed heating system requires the installation of a closed expansion tank and a circulation pump. This option is more practical, since you can additionally make a “warm floor”, the house is always warm and cozy, the elements of the system are arranged arbitrarily, there is no need to calculate and observe the slope of the pipes when performing installation work.

Types of heating systems

In most cases, owners of private houses prefer heating systems with water coolant. This is the most versatile, convenient and economical option, however, there are others. There are two main questions that you need to find answers to before you start installing a heating system: what to warm up with and what to heat with.

Air. This can be either an all-air heating system or a “warm floor”. In this case, the low heat capacity of the air must be taken into account. This option justifies itself when heating rooms such as a corridor, hallway, veranda;
water vapor used primarily for heating large industrial premises. Such a system requires constant monitoring;
Water- the most optimal way to heat a large private house. Such a system is efficient and compact, undemanding in maintenance. Plastic pipes are used for the arrangement;
Antifreeze its qualities are in no way inferior to water coolant, however, it is much more expensive and releases toxins, so you definitely need to take care of high-quality sealing.

As for the heat source, there may also be different options. For our latitudes, natural gas is considered the most economical fuel, so most households use gas heating boilers for heating. There are also electric, solid fuel and combined ones. There is a wide range of models on the market, which allows you to choose the most suitable option in each specific case.

With water coolant

Water heating is an affordable, economical, effective option for heating a private home, which has been used for many years, but has never lost its popularity. To ensure high-quality operation of the heating system, it is necessary to correctly calculate the number of radiators, buy a powerful boiler, correctly connect all the elements and start the coolant (water). This system is easy to maintain, durable and reliable. Liquid circulation through the pipes is carried out either using a circulation pump or by gravity.

Forced circulation- a great way to heat a large house on two or three floors. A mandatory element of such a system is a pump that supplies cold water to the boiler and hot water from it. There are fully automated pumps on sale that are capable of starting independently at the right time and controlling the temperature of the coolant;
Natural circulation. Water can circulate independently through the elements of the heating system if the equipment is placed correctly during installation and the pipes are positioned at a certain slope. This option is used extremely rarely today and justifies itself in one-story houses with a small area.

Any boiler is suitable for installing a water-based heating system, but only an electric one does not require a chimney. The number of radiators and pipes depends on the area of the house.

Air heating

An air heating system is increasingly being used, which involves installing special ducts or air heaters in each room of the house through which hot air flows. Heating elements can be located on the ceiling or walls. There are several types of air heating.

Local used if there is a need to heat a separate room. The essence of the method is that a fan heater is installed in the room, which heats the air to the optimal temperature (drying it out);
Central can be called a complete heating system. The air is heated by special equipment and supplied to individual rooms through ventilation ducts;
Air curtains- an expensive, but very convenient and functional way to heat a house. Devices that resemble air conditioners in appearance are installed near the entrance to the rooms. Through them a flow of heated air enters the room.

Air heating is used less often today than water heating. The main reason is high cost and impracticality. You can set up such a system in a country house, in a small house, but this method is not suitable for heating a two-story mansion.

Electric heating

The use of electric convectors is justified in cases where it is not possible to use other types of fuel. The equipment is installed in one room, easy to connect, and simple to maintain. Modern models are equipped with a whole arsenal of functions: automatic switching off and on, adjusting the air temperature in the room. Convectors are small, compact, they do not take up much space and can be moved from one room to another.

To equip your home with such a heating system, you need a powerful, new electrical network. Old wiring is unlikely to withstand such increased voltage. When choosing this option, be prepared for high utility bills.

Electric convectors are ideal if you need to temporarily heat a room (in a country house, for example), but in a large private mansion it is better not to use them.

Steam heating

A steam heating system can be used to heat large private homes, commercial and industrial premises. Only a professional can set up such a complex system with his own hands. To ensure its functionality, reliability and safety, everything must be done according to the instructions; even the slightest mistake during installation can lead to the system either not working or soon breaking down.

The operating principle of this option is that water flows through the pipes in a gaseous state. To start the system, one boiler will not be enough; additional equipment is installed that is responsible for filtering water and converting it into steam. Main advantages: the system warms up quickly, provides warmth and comfort in every room, and significantly saves energy. Disadvantages of steam heating:

expensive equipment (as you will need to install a special boiler and filters);
requires professional maintenance;
emergency situations may occur.

Water vapor in a closed system is supplied under pressure, so if a radiator or pipe ruptures, a person nearby may be burned or seriously injured.

Heating system "warm floor"

A modern, effective and very comfortable way to heat a house is to install a “warm floor”. The system is installed during the construction or major renovation of a house. It is advisable to use this option if you plan to use ceramic tiles as a floor covering.

“Warm floor” can be installed everywhere: in the bedroom and nursery, in the living room and kitchen, in the bathroom and toilet. In this case, heat will come from below. A whole network of pipes or wires is installed under the floor covering, through which the coolant passes. If water is used, a special lining must be laid on the base of the floor, which will not allow thermal energy to escape downwards. Next, the pipeline is laid, then the screed and floor covering. The option is quite labor-intensive, but economical.

It’s easier to create an electric “warm floor” with your own hands. In a specialized store you can buy either special mats or wiring. In the first case, installation is very simple, you do not need to use any additional elements, just ready-made mats with a floor covering on top. In the second, a thin layer of screed or ceramic tiles are laid on the cable.

Selecting a heating boiler

A mandatory, if not the main, element of the heating system is the heating boiler. The modern market offers a wide range of options that differ in technical characteristics, cost, size and appearance. A few years ago, gas equipment was at the peak of popularity. Today they are being replaced by electric and solid fuel appliances. When choosing a boiler, a number of criteria should be taken into account.

Convection- the most common, has a simple design, uses only the energy of the fuel that burns. Condensation costs more, but produces more heat;
The combustion chamber. If it is open, air is used from the room. In closed chambers, air can be consumed both from the room and from the street, however, a chimney is required;
Circuit. To provide comfort and warmth to your household, you need to take care not only of the heating system, but also of the water supply. The issue can be solved using a double-circuit boiler, which will both heat the house and provide hot water.

When choosing a gas, electric or solid fuel boiler, you should pay attention to such parameters as unit power, fuel consumption, size and design, and cost.

Advantages of gas boilers

Gas is an affordable and economical fuel. Gas boilers are considered the most common and are widely used in the installation of heating systems in private homes. The equipment can operate on natural or liquefied gas. The advantages of gas appliances include the following:

ease of operation;
reduction in heating costs;
high performance;
environmental Safety;
reliability and durability.

To install such equipment at home, it is necessary to develop a gas project and agree on all the details with the company that supplies the fuel. You can install and connect the boiler yourself without outside help, but a gas service representative must put it into operation.

With the installation of a gas heating boiler, difficulties may arise already at the installation stage. First of all, the device should be adapted for operation in conditions where there is an increased range of operating gas pressure. It is very important to pay attention to this if you have purchased an imported boiler. You will also need to install a chimney to remove exhaust gas. Only turbo boilers are equipped with special turbines through which combustion products go outside.

Electric heating boilers

The best option in cases where there is no access to a gas main is to install an electric heating boiler. Its power is enough to heat a house on two or three floors. The equipment is capable of efficiently heating a cottage with an area of up to 300 square meters. m. This option does not provide for the installation of additional ventilation or chimney. During operation, electrical appliances do not emit harmful substances and do not pollute the air or the room in which they are located. Compact dimensions allow you to install the boiler in a small, not necessarily separate, room.

How to choose a heating boiler that runs on electricity? Which device is best suited for heating a private home? How to save on buying an electric boiler, but still get really high-quality equipment?

But there are also disadvantages to electric heating systems. Firstly, the house must have powerful, reliable electrical wiring. Secondly, the numbers on receipts will increase significantly. Modern models are used not only for heating, but also for hot water supply. They are completely safe, convenient, and effective. Prices for equipment depend on the manufacturer, the power of the device, and additional functions.

Solid fuel models

Solid fuel boilers that operate on the principle of Kolpakov stoves have very high efficiency. To maintain the coolant temperature, it is necessary to add fuel to the boiler once a day. Modern models on the market are safe and effective. The equipment is mounted on the floor, although it is compact in size, however, it requires a separate room. The main advantages of solid fuel units:

the body does not heat up, so there is no risk of getting burned;
Not only peat, but also firewood, sawdust, and paper can be used as fuel;
all devices are characterized by high power;
compact size and modern design;
economy.

However, there are also disadvantages. The operation of such heating devices is accompanied by the accumulation of dirt and dust in the room, so it is recommended to allocate a separate room for the boiler. There should be a place in it for storing fuel, and it is also necessary to clean the device from ash from time to time.

To heat a house using a solid fuel boiler, you will have to spend at least an hour until the coolant warms up. In addition, it is necessary to properly design the chimney. During operation of the equipment, you need to ensure that the combustion chamber does not become clogged. The advantages of solid fuel boilers include the fact that it depends only on the owner what kind of winter will be for his home: warm or cold, because he himself prepares the fuel.

Combined units

In some regions, a problem such as lack of gas or electricity often occurs. But this does not mean that the residents of the house are doomed to the cold, because there are combination boilers on sale that can operate on not one, but two types of fuel. The most common models are those that can run on gas and solid fuel. This ensures the reliability and autonomy of the heating system. Each such device is equipped with two combustion chambers. You can switch from one type of fuel to another by changing burners.

Combined heating boilers are not without their disadvantages. For example, they cost more than gas or solid fuel equipment separately. The efficiency of such units rarely exceeds 90%. To install the device, you need to allocate a separate room and arrange a chimney.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of which heating boiler to choose. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing, you should focus on such parameters as the area of the house, heat loss, type of coolant, availability of one or another type of fuel.

A powerful, reliable unit will ensure uninterrupted and efficient operation of the heating system in a private home.

Heat loss calculation

In the process of planning a heating system, it is necessary to calculate the heat loss of each room and the entire house. To carry out calculations correctly, you need to know the following data:

design and thickness of walls;
thermal resistance of materials;
the average temperature of the coldest month and the average winter temperature.

The main criterion necessary for calculating heat loss is the thermal resistance of materials. It can be obtained from special collections and tables. This parameter needs to be multiplied by the thickness of the material (in meters), we get the thermal conductivity of each layer of the wall, which we multiply by the temperature gradient and by the area of the room.

What is heat loss at home? Formulas for calculating the power of a heating system for a private home. What criteria should be taken into account when calculating heat loss?

DIY heating system installation

Installation work should begin with the installation of the heating boiler. If the equipment power does not exceed 60 kW, you can install the device in the kitchen; if it is higher, a separate room should be allocated for the boiler. Heat sources that burn different types of fuel must have air flow. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the removal of combustion products. This can be done with the help of a properly equipped chimney.

When installing a heating boiler, certain rules must be followed. The distance to the nearest equipment and walls must be at least 0.7 m. The wiring of units that operate on different types of fuel is practically the same. The figure shows an option for piping a gas boiler with a forced circulation system.

This tying method is used most often. Other schemes provide for the presence of their own pumps to ensure continuous circulation of the heated coolant.

If solid fuel heat generators are used to service the heating system, the following nuances must be taken into account when connecting them: due to the inertia of the device, the coolant may overheat and boil. To avoid unpleasant situations, it is necessary to install a circulation pump on the return line. An additional security system is also installed, which consists of the following elements:

safety valve;
automatic air vent;
pressure gauge

An important function is performed by the safety valve, because it is responsible for relieving excess pressure in cases where the coolant overheats. The most effective piping scheme for a solid fuel boiler is shown in the figure below.

Another problem that is often encountered when operating a heating system with solid fuel boilers is the accumulation of condensate on the elements of the unit. This happens due to cold water entering the hot cut. To prevent condensation of the coolant, a three-way valve and a bypass are installed in the systems.

Installation of heating pipes

It is impossible to install a heating system in a private house without a pipeline. In old houses there are cast iron pipes from the last century. They boast a long service life, durability and reliability. However, today such products are used extremely rarely, because they have been almost completely replaced by lighter, more convenient and cheaper pipes that can be made from the following materials:

steel;
copper;
stainless steel;
polypropylene;
polyethylene;
metal-plastic.

Copper and steel products are strong and durable. They are excellent for arranging a heating system in multi-storey country cottages and private houses. The only drawback is the high cost. The most affordable polypropylene pipes, however, it is quite difficult to carry out the entire complex of work yourself.

The most suitable options for arranging a heating system pipeline: metal-plastic or polyethylene products. Such pipes are used in systems with different types of coolant, as well as for laying water-based “warm floors”. The products have excellent technical characteristics, are cheaper than metal ones, and are easier and more convenient to work with due to their low weight. Metal-plastic and polyethylene pipes are reliable, durable, safe, and have a long service life.

Selection and installation of radiators

Previously, traditional, cast-iron, not very aesthetic batteries were available, which were used in every private house or high-rise building. Today, in specialized heating equipment stores there are so many models of radiators, they all differ from each other in price, technical characteristics, and appearance, that it may be difficult to choose. As a rule, these products are classified depending on the material from which they are made.

Aluminum The batteries are light, durable, reliable, and have excellent heat transfer performance. The products are made from solid alloy, which ensures their durability;
Bimetallic Radiators are used primarily in central heating systems. Internally they are equipped with a tubular steel frame;
Steel panel batteries– the best option that experts recommend for use when installing a heating system in a private home. To regulate the air temperature in the room, you can install thermostatic valves;
Cast iron Heating radiators today are presented in a wide range. These are not Soviet “accordions”, but durable, safe and reliable products, which are characterized by an attractive design.

When choosing heating radiators, give preference to those that you like the most and suit the price. Modern models are efficient enough to provide warmth and comfort in a private home.

The type of heating system and type of coolant depends on the number of floors and area of the house, the availability of one or another fuel. You can install a heating system in a private home with your own hands, if you follow the recommendations for selecting and installing equipment.

In words, drawing up and discussing a heating system is a simple matter. However, in order for it to function correctly, be effective and economical, each element and node must be planned and calculated in detail. Heating distribution from a boiler in a private house is laid not only with beauty and comfort in mind. It is important to consider the type of system, the characteristics of the materials that will be used, and adhere to general requirements.

Primary requirements

The main task is to connect the boiler and all radiators in the most efficient way. It is important to take into account a number of requirements:

The routing should be laid along the route with the shortest length.
The hydraulic resistance of pipes, valves and fittings should be reduced whenever possible.
It is necessary to think through and arrange all functional units on the line with a minimum number of bends, tees and valves. This refers to the safety group, expansion tank, circulation pump, fittings for draining and filling the system, etc.
Pipes are selected based on the performance characteristics of the material and the heating system.
The diameter of the pipes is calculated to minimize pressure losses on the one hand and reduce the volume of the pipeline on the other.

Pipe diameter

Theoretically, calculating the optimal pipe diameter for a heating system in a house is quite difficult. The required pressure, static and dynamic pressure, pipeline resistance are taken into account, taking into account the laying route, the roughness of the inner surface of the pipes and many additional parameters. In practice, you will still have to choose from a fairly limited list of pipe diameters made of one material or another. The standard sizes and main characteristics of the pipes have long been standardized, as well as all the additional elements necessary to assemble the heating circuit from the boiler to the radiators.

The main idea is to provide:

the speed of movement of the coolant in the pipes is at the level of 0.4-0.6 m/s;
the resistance of the entire heating circuit is lower than the pressure created by the pump or gravity in a system with natural circulation;
minimum volume of coolant in the pipes. Not to be confused with the total volume, including the boiler and, if necessary, storage tank.

Reducing the resistance of pipes and circuits

With any wiring diagram or coolant circulation method, it is necessary to reduce the pipeline resistance and ensure optimal fluid movement through the pipes, avoiding both laminar movement and completely turbulent movement.

For systems with natural circulation:

Any turns and bends along the route are carried out taking into account the minimum permissible turning radius for the type of pipe used.
Transitions between pipes with different diameters, insertion of risers into the distribution manifold are carried out without narrowing the smaller diameter and, if possible, with a gradual expansion/constriction of the channel.
In front of shut-off, control valves, radiators or other equipment, a smooth section of pipe should be formed at least 5-6 pipe diameters in order to eliminate unnecessary turbulence and turbulence in the liquid flow.

For a system with forced circulation, the previous tips are not mandatory; it is important that the circuit resistance is less than the pressure generated by the pump. However, if all requirements are met, the load on the pump will decrease and its operating life will accordingly increase. Due to the forced pumping of the coolant, you can use metal-plastic pipes with a small cross-section, a lower two-pipe or one-pipe connection scheme, including packing the pipes into a screed or walls.

Wiring diagrams

In practice, a large number of possible connection types are used. You can single out four main ones, and on their basis you can choose either a ready-made solution or a combined one.

Single-pipe wiring with or without accelerating manifold. From the boiler the pipe goes to the first radiator. The radiators are connected in series, and from the last one in the heat exchanger circuit there is a return pipe to the cold inlet of the boiler. By way of wiring orientation:

For any switching method, a set of control equipment from the safety and diagnostics group must be selected. The composition of the equipment varies depending on the presence of a pump or the use of a gravity system.

For natural circulation everything is extremely simple:

You need a line from the boiler to the expansion tank, located as high as possible.
A pipe for connecting radiators is led from the expansion tank or from the manifold directly next to the tank. In the case of an accelerating manifold and a lower single-pipe distribution, the pipe descends with a gradual slope towards the first radiator.
Next, the wiring to the radiators is carried out according to the selected connection method, with a mandatory slope of at least 2-3 degrees.
From the last radiator there is a return line to the boiler with a connection to the lower cold inlet. On the return line, directly next to the boiler, a tee with a shut-off valve and a fitting for draining the coolant is inserted.

It is more important to correctly route the pipes. Connection points and fittings should not narrow the channel cross-section. The pipe turn or elbow is selected with a turning radius of at least 1.5 times the pipe diameter. If the pipe descends to the radiator from above or rises, then an elbow is formed first, and then the bypass and radiator are cut in.

For forced circulation, the composition of the equipment has been significantly expanded:

Expansion tank, membrane type. Installation is allowed at the hot and cold outlet of the boiler, the main thing is as close as possible to the heat exchanger or heat accumulator. For solid fuel (SF) boilers, due to the impossibility of accurately regulating the outlet water temperature, first a direct outlet with a length of at least a meter is installed with a steel pipe, and only after that the equipment is connected. The expansion tank for TT boilers is installed on the return, cold line.
Security group(air vent, safety valve, pressure gauge). The safety group is located at the hot outlet of the boiler. From the boiler safety group there must be a short section of pipe with the maximum permissible diameter and without any shut-off valves that can narrow the channel (ball valves are allowed). The safety group is installed at the top point of the circuit.
Coarse filter. A mandatory element, even taking into account the preparation of the coolant. Installed in front of the circulation pump on the return line.
Circulation pump. By default it is installed on the return line, where the coolant temperature is lower. If the system wiring is at least theoretically suitable for natural circulation, then the pump is connected in parallel to a common pipe with a bypass. Shut-off valves are installed on both sides of the pump and on the bypass. In other cases, the pump can be installed in direct flow into the return gap with shut-off valves on both sides.
Additional pressure gauges for diagnostics. To diagnose and check the performance of the heating, it is important to know the pressure on both boiler outlets, on both sides of the circulation pump and the coarse filter, in addition to the pressure gauge installed with the safety group. Depending on the equipment connection sequence, the points may overlap and you will ultimately need to install 2-3 pressure gauges using three-way valves or tees.
Three-way valve for bypass to the boiler.
Tee bend with shut-off valves for filling the system with coolant and draining.

Before choosing the entire list of equipment, you should find out what is already in the heating boiler itself; often wall-mounted gas or electric boilers have an expansion tank and a safety group at a minimum.

Regardless of the wiring method and coolant circulation option, it is advisable to provide a bypass for each radiator. This will avoid stopping the movement of liquid due to air locks and will make it possible to regulate the thermal power of each radiator individually when installing a three-way valve with a thermostat.

All equipment should be located as close as possible to the boiler, with access for inspection and maintenance. An exception is the manifold wiring, in which part of the equipment remains near the boiler (general circulation pump, expansion tank, safety group), and part - at the point of installation of the manifold (shut-off and control valves, additional pumps for circuits, air vents, etc.)

Price for 1m2 of work

It is difficult to independently take into account all the nuances and correctly install the heating network around the house. It is much better to entrust this work to specialists who will offer the best option and a set of additional equipment. Based on experience, designers and installers are able to correctly place emphasis depending on the customer’s wishes: to provide heating with maximum efficiency and ease of use, or to strive to save money on work and installation.

The cost of the work includes separate installation of the boiler, connection of additional equipment, pipe routing and installation of radiators. Each item has its own price list, according to which the cost of all work on equipping the heating system in the house is calculated.

Type of work	units	Cost, rub.
Installation of a heating boiler with a power of up to 50 kW	PC.	12000-20000
Installation of a boiler with a power of over 50 kW	PC.	25000-50000
Security group installation	PC.	from 1500
Expansion tank	PC.	from 2000
Circulation pump	PC.	from 2000
Installation and connection of the comb (collector)	PC.	from 1500
Pipe routing D16-25	linear meters	60-85
Pipe routing D32-40	linear meters	75-90
Pipe routing D55-63	linear meters	90-120
Pipe routing D75-110	linear meters	100-150
Installation and connection of the radiator	PC.	2000-5000
Installing a thermostat	PC.	500
Pressure testing according to the requirements of the boiler equipment manufacturer		from 4500
Commissioning works		from 3500

Routing pipes from the boiler to the radiators can average 300-500 rubles per linear meter, taking into account laying, connection, passage and wall grooves. Prices are indicative for Moscow and the region.

Long gone are the days when only a stove could heat a private house. The lack of hot water in sufficient quantities and the need to light the stove and keep it burning did little to facilitate life outside the city. That is why many sought to move to comfortable multi-storey buildings, where heating and hot water supply were centralized.

Today, a lot has changed - the abundance and range of modern heating equipment allows you to do heating in the house yourself, even without the involvement of specialists. Now, on the contrary, the priority is to live in country houses, since hot water is available all year round, and heating can be turned on at any time, without waiting for a decision from utility services.

In total, there are 3 main energy sources - gas, solid fuel and electricity. We will talk about each of them, as well as how to properly wire the boiler and ensure heat supply to different components, in this article.

You will not be able to purchase the entire heating system in any store. You can select individual elements and assemble them into a system, you can purchase materials and make the boiler and piping entirely yourself. Regardless of which path you decide to go, you must first decide on the following parameters:

what type of fuel is planned to be used;
which fuel is more economically feasible.

What home heating systems are there?

The most famous means of heating since time immemorial has been the Russian stove. Among the main disadvantages of such structures today are their large size, which is not always convenient, and uneven heating of the air in the room. It’s very hot near the stove, warm two meters away, cold in the next room. Modern fireplaces, although they have changed over time, generally act as an analogue of a stove and therefore can be used exclusively as an auxiliary heat source.

The most popular and effective is a water heating system, where heated coolant circulates through pipes and thereby heats the premises.

Air heating, based on the operation of air heat collectors, is considered no less effective, but practically unknown.

Electric heating can be called a relatively new type, which works by converting electricity into thermal energy without using any coolant.

Types of boilers

The main task when organizing heating with your own hands is to create an effective system, mostly automatic, with minimal human participation in its operation. Based on the availability of the type of fuel and the appropriateness of its choice, you should purchase a specific type of boiler.

The main classification of boilers depends on the type of fuel:

gas;
electric;
solid fuel;
combined.

Modern industrial boilers are economical, relatively silent and easy to operate. The main disadvantage of such equipment is its energy dependence, since at the heart of each there is a fan that forces air into the chamber or ensures the movement of the coolant.

The exception applies only to those boilers where it is used. This pump belongs to the category of emergency equipment and runs on a battery. In the absence of electricity, the pump ensures the movement of coolant through the pipes, preventing them from freezing and subsequent rupture.

Heating scheme for a private house

Gas

No matter how often the price of gas is indexed in our country, it still remains the cheapest type of fuel.

Modern gas boilers are silent, easy to operate, and differ in the number of circuits:

single-circuit - designed only for heating the house

double-circuit - for heating and hot water supply.

Electric

The safest type of equipment. Capable of heating a room of any size (power 4-300 kW). The only disadvantage of such equipment is the cost of fuel. Electricity is traditionally the most expensive type of heating compared to gas and solid fuel.

Key benefits include the following:

large power range of boilers capable of heating up to 350 sq.m. premises on different levels and consisting of several rooms;
there is no need to organize a chimney or exhaust ventilation - heating occurs by converting electricity into heat, so no combustion products are released;
environmentally friendly equipment that does not emit any pollutants into the atmosphere;
compact size and the ability to install in any room without restrictions on square footage and distance;
there is no need to obtain permits to put equipment into operation.

Even a small house can be heated with electricity only if 3 phases are supplied and the network voltage is absolutely stable.

Boilers also differ in the number of circuits:

single-circuit - for heating only;
double-circuit - for heating and water heating.

Solid fuel

This is an improved "hello" from the past, modernized to such an extent that it can be left for a week and the temperature in the house will be comfortable. All solid fuel boilers are based on the Kolpakov principle, when the boiler is first heated, and then the temperature is maintained at a certain level to ensure stability of heating of the coolant.

Such boilers are characterized by a fairly high efficiency, but at the same time they require regular (at least 1-2 times a week) cleaning of combustion products, installation of a chimney, organization of exhaust ventilation and the presence of a separate room.

Advantages of solid fuel equipment:

a wide range of fuels (firewood, coal, pellets, braces, waste from the woodworking and agricultural industries, etc.);
high efficiency, in some cases reaching 92%;
possibility of process automation for long-term combustion units.

To ensure that the heating season does not cause difficulties, it is necessary to prepare in advance a certain amount of fuel sufficient to heat a private home for 2-3 months.

Combined

This type of equipment allows you to rationalize heating costs and ensure constant operation of the boiler, depending on the availability of a particular fuel.

The fundamental difference lies in the combination of solid fuel with other sources - electricity, liquid fuel or gas. Depending on the pair, electric, solid fuel and universal combo boilers are distinguished. The choice depends on what fuel is available in the region.

The transition between alternative sources is carried out by changing burners, which is quite difficult and does not always work out the first time.

Burners are always purchased separately!

When choosing a boiler for a private home, you should understand that this is only a small part of the entire heating system. certainly very important, on which its functioning and maintaining heat in the house will depend, but also a lot depends on the boiler piping, on the organization of the heating and hot water supply system.

Types of heating systems

Depending on what coolant circulates in the system, the following types of heating are practiced:

water, where ordinary water acts as the coolant (in some cases, antifreeze can be added);
air - coolant - air heated to a certain temperature;
steam - pipes heat steam;
electrical - electrical appliances (heating elements, infrared emitters, etc.) are placed around the perimeter;
combined - organizing heating in such a way that the source is not only the coolant, but also other options;
"warm floor" system.

Each of the listed methods has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages in relation to each other.

This is the simplest type of heating for a private home, which is easy to do with your own hands. There are no special requirements for operating the system; the main task is to correctly calculate the number of batteries and select the appropriate boiler power.

How to calculate power

There is a universal formula for calculating power:

1 kW of power = 10 m 2 heated area

However, it only works in ideal, one might say, laboratory conditions, which are very far from reality. When determining the parameter, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular house - the year of construction, what building materials are used, the presence of thermal insulation, the type of windows and doors, etc.

So, for example, if a house was built more than 30 years ago, but is insulated, doors and windows are replaced with modern sealed structures, the power should be increased by 1.5 times, that is, by 10 sq.m. take 1.5 kW of area. If the building was built recently, but is not properly insulated, the doors and windows are wooden and draughty, the power should be increased by 2 times.

Power calculation factors

2 or more windows on the north side - 1.3;
2 or more windows on the south, east and southeast sides - 1.1;
2 or more windows on the west side - 1.2.

When organizing water heating, purified water acts as a coolant, which does not need to be drained at the end of the heating season. This is a closed system where water circulates under the influence of a pump or by gravity.

Forced coolant circulation

In order to ensure the movement of heated water through the pipes, centrifugal force is needed. As a rule, a circulation pump is used for these purposes, but an ordinary centrifugal pump, only of low power, is quite suitable.

The main task of the pump is to supply cooled water to the boiler to heat it and distribute the already heated coolant throughout the system. Since we are talking about a vicious circle, a constant volume of water circulates through the pipes.

Installation of a circulation pump in the heating system of a private house

The use of pumping equipment, although it makes the system energy-dependent, completely eliminates the need for human participation in the operation of the boiler. The temperature sensor monitors the heating limit, the pump moves water progressively from the boiler to the pipes and back. If we are talking about an electric or gas boiler, all participation comes down to only one thing - set a comfortable temperature and forget about the boiler for the whole season.

In order to ensure the operation of the boiler in the absence of electricity, you can purchase a 12-volt circulation pump powered by a battery.

Coolant circulation by gravity

Today, such a system is extremely rare and only in one-story houses. Here, the coolant moves through the system by gravity, when water of different temperatures moves under the influence of differences in specific gravity.

A prerequisite for proper water circulation in a gravity system is the installation of pipes at a slight angle - up to 150.

DIY installation of a water heating system

In order to make the house comfortable and warm, you should correctly calculate the number of radiators through which the coolant will circulate. Please note that all boilers must be equipped with an exhaust ventilation system and a chimney. The only exception applies to an electric boiler.

How to calculate the required number of radiators

The most correct way is to calculate the area of the heated room (in each room separately). According to SNiP, each square meter requires 100 W of heat. Find out the area of the room and multiply by the required amount of heat. So, for example, for a room of 20 sq.m. you will need 2000 W of heat (20 x 100), which corresponds to 2 kW.

Now we determine the number of radiators by the number of sections or units. Each manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of one section of a radiator or monolithic product. Divide the resulting heat volume by the heat transfer coefficient and get the number of sections that you convert into radiators, or immediately the number of radiators.

Single-pipe, where only hot water leaves the boiler

In this case, the coolant moves from the first to the last radiator, gradually losing heat. When choosing such a system, you should keep in mind that in the farthest room the battery will be almost cold.

It is difficult to adjust the temperature of radiators with such a system, since by shutting off one radiator, you stop the flow of coolant to all subsequent ones.

Two-pipe - supply of hot water from the boiler and return of water to the boiler (return).

This is the most optimal system for heating a private house, where 2 pipes are connected in parallel to each device - primary and return. In this case, the temperature of all radiators in all rooms will be approximately the same. You can increase or decrease the temperature in each room as needed.

This method of wiring is also called radial, when a pipe with direct supply is supplied from the boiler to each device and discharged with a cold one.

The collector in such a heating system performs the task of storing coolant.

This is a universal system that is suitable for organizing heating in any room, while it is possible to make hidden wiring to each device separately.

Depending on the chosen wiring system, the number of pipes and the total cost are determined. Single-pipe wiring is the cheapest option.

After the number of radiators has been calculated and the system has been selected, the pipes should be installed.

Previously, metal pipes were used for this purpose. Today, such a solution is not profitable due to cost and susceptibility to corrosion, so you should choose polypropylene.

Polypropylene pipes in the heating system

Pipes are laid in all rooms that will be heated, moving from one room to another. The pipes are connected to each other with a special soldering iron for plastic pipes.

You can assemble a water heating system for a private house with your own hands, but this will require precise calculations and a boiler piping diagram. The main drawback of such a system is the need for regular prevention. And please note that if you use antifreeze, it must be changed every 5 years.

A fairly popular method of heating residential and office premises, based on the principle of gravity and forced ventilation. The gravitational system involves the movement of air at a temperature difference due to its natural circulation. Different temperatures mean different air densities, which causes the movement of warm and cold layers.

When heating with air, a heater is installed in the room or ventilation ducts are installed through which warm air enters. Each such heat source can be installed anywhere in the room - on the wall, ceiling or floor. This has no effect on the principle of convection.

There are 2 main types of air heating:

local (localized);
central.

Localized

This method is suitable for heating only one room in the room. The heat source can be:

air heaters;
heat guns;
thermal curtains.

The optimal heat supply is a heater that distributes heat several meters around. The power of such equipment is 1-1.2 kW per hour.

A heat gun is a more powerful equipment, which also instantly dries the air in the room. Used only for heating warehouse and industrial premises where people stay for a short time. Power 2-2.5 kW per hour.

A thermal curtain is an analogue of an air conditioner that supplies hot air to a point. Most often, a curtain is placed at the entrance to simultaneously prevent cold air from entering the room. Power 1.5-2 kW per hour.

Central heating

This is an example of a centralized hot air supply, which operates on the principle:

direct-flow or partial recirculation;
complete circulation of hot air.

Most often, such a system is chosen in rooms with suspended or suspended ceilings, where ventilation ducts can be installed above them. Through such ventilation holes, hot air enters the room and circulates in it.

It is not advisable to install ventilation ducts in the walls, since part of it will be needed to mask the ventilation shafts.

The cost of air heating is more expensive both in terms of installation and the cost of equipment. The source of coolant supply is a gas or electric boiler.

Advantages:

filtering the air entering the room;
fresh air due to the fact that the intake is carried out from the street;
possibility of organizing drip irrigation and air ionization.

Flaws:

such a system can only be created in a house under construction (with the exception of a water gun and a heat curtain);
expensive installation.

Electric heating

The most affordable way to heat any room, since electricity is everywhere.

The operating principle is based on the operation of an electric convector that converts electrical energy into heat. Modern models are equipped with a large number of functions that completely eliminate the need for human participation in monitoring work.

It could be:

temperature controller depending on the time of day;
regulator for increasing the temperature at night and decreasing it during the day (day-night mode);
maintaining system pressure and minimum temperature in the event of absence of people for a long time;
compliance with the regime even during a short-term power outage, etc.

Advantages:

very simple and easy installation that anyone can do;
extremely simple operation;
mobility of the system, when convectors can be moved from room to room if necessary.

Flaws:

the high cost of energy is the most expensive of all existing heating methods.

When choosing an electric heating method, there must be 3 phases and a stable voltage in the network.

Steam heating

In this case, the operating principle is completely identical to the water one, with the only difference that instead of water, steam circulates in the pipe system. Installation of pipes, selection of boiler power and organization of piping are completely identical to the water heating system.

For steam heating, special boilers are used that generate hot steam. It is mandatory to have a “Through the Gauntlet” filter system, which purifies water from all kinds of impurities before it is converted into a vapor state.

There is only one advantage of a steam heating system - savings, since heating occurs almost instantly. The efficiency is 95%.

There are incomparably more disadvantages:

peculiarity of the equipment - it is extremely difficult to find a steam boiler on the open market;
high installation cost, which includes the installation of special pipes and the presence of a filter system;
dangerous operation because the steam temperature exceeds 100 degrees.

Warm floor

The huge advantage of this heating system is the large heat-transferring surface area. This is an ideal option for common areas - kitchen, bathroom, hallway, as well as in the living room or children's room.

It is optimal to lay a heated floor under ceramic tiles - in this case it acts as an excellent conductor. Laminate and parquet are much less often used for heated floors, since when the temperature rises, warping of the material and its subsequent dismantling are possible.

A prerequisite for installing a heated floor is a foil layer. It is neither an insulator nor a reflector, as is commonly believed. Foil is used to distribute heat evenly across the floor surface. If you do not use such a layer, the tactile sensations of the floor will resemble a zebra - the stripe is warm, the stripe is cold.

Warm floors can be water-based, where hot water circulates through pipes, or electric - a system of wires where electrical energy is converted into heat.

Water heated floor

A branch of a water heating system in the form of small-diameter pipes laid on a flat floor surface. A prerequisite is the use of a substrate that will prevent heat loss from contact with the floor.

The difficulty of installing a water heated floor lies in the need to lay pipes and connect them correctly to the existing heating system.

Electric heated floor

A type of heating that is elementary in installation and operation. The only difficulty that may arise is preliminary preparation of the surface for laying wires or mats using a concrete screed, and laying the floor covering on top of the heated floor

Even simpler is to use electric mats on the existing surface. Such mats are absolutely safe to use and are easy to set up. To avoid mechanical damage, it is recommended to use an overhead electric floor under a carpet or rug.

In most cases, a heated floor is an auxiliary element of the heating system in the house.

How to choose heating for your home

The most correct thing when choosing a heating system and, accordingly, a boiler is to focus on the available type of fuel. If there is no gas pipeline in some area yet, but its installation is already underway, it is advisable to use combined boilers - solid fuel and gas. Where gas is not available and is not planned, but electricity is expensive, you can connect an electric boiler.

Each system has both its advantages and disadvantages. Even if you heat the house yourself, be sure to consult with the designers regarding the type and method. Any of the selected heating systems is quite expensive so that errors in calculations can be made.

For example, when developing a fireplace, stove or solid fuel boiler with your own hands, there is a risk of carbon dioxide concentration in the room, which will lead to accidents.

The best option would be to purchase ready-made certified equipment, and you can do the installation and wiring yourself.

In order to accurately understand which type of heating to prefer, you should take into account the cost of each type of fuel and its consumption per unit of time.

As of March 2016, fuel prices are as follows:

1 liter of diesel - $0.5. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.05.
1 m 3 of natural gas for individuals - $0.05. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.006.
1 liter of bottled gas - $0.3. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.020.
1 kW/h of electricity for an individual - $0.03.
1 kg of coal averages $0.3. The cost of 1 kW/h is $0.05.

If you live in a region where winter temperatures drop below zero, the issue of heating in private homes becomes extremely important. When creating a space heating system in a private house, one of the following heating schemes is used (the design, cost, advantages and disadvantages of each of them will be discussed below).

The most common types of home heating systems

The most ancient means of heating, known since time immemorial, is the Russian stove, the disadvantage of which is that the floor always remains cold, as warm air rises. Fireplaces, which also came to us from antiquity, have changed in many ways, but mainly play an auxiliary role in heating the house. The most popular are water heating systems based on the circulation of water heated from a boiler in pipes. There are boilers heated by different types of fuel. More rare, but no less effective, is air heating. Electric heating in homes is a relatively new type of heating, while the room can be heated without a coolant, and electrical energy is converted into heat.

Water heating

This system is considered the most reliable and simple: the boiler heats the water, which then flows through pipes to the room radiators, from there, giving off heat to the room through the radiators, and returns again to the boiler.

Scheme of water heating of a private house

Water circulation is maintained by a circulation pump. A water heating system is a closed chain consisting of a boiler-heat generator, pipeline, and batteries. Water or antifreeze constantly circulates through it. The fuel for heating the boiler can be coal, firewood, natural gas, kerosene, etc.; centralized power supply or alternative electricity: solar and wind converters, mini-hydro stations, etc.

In addition to the boiler, pipes and batteries, the water heating system includes devices for regulating the system: an expansion tank, where excess water or antifreeze that occurs during heating is discharged; thermostats, circulation pump, pressure gauge, shut-off, automatic air vent, safety valves.

Table 1: Selection of boiler power depending on the heated area of the house

For areas from 30 to 1000 sq. meters, you can also use electric boilers with a power of 3-105 kW, respectively. Restrictions on the use of electric boilers may be for the following reasons: there is not always enough electricity capacity supplied to the house, the high cost of electricity, taking into account the cost of 1 kW of energy per 10 sq.m. with ceiling heights up to 3 m, possible power outages.

Diagram of a water heating system for a private two-story house

Pipes made of different materials are used in a water heating system:

1.Steel, galvanized steel, stainless steel;
They are welded during installation.Steel pipes have a significant drawback: low corrosion resistance. Galvanized and stainless steel pipes do not have this drawback; it is advisable to use threaded connections in their installation. When assembling a pipeline from metal pipes, skill and qualifications are needed. Currently, in new construction of cottages, such pipes are used less.
2. Copper;
Copper pipes are reliable and can withstand very high temperatures and high pressures. They are connected by high-temperature soldering using silver-containing solder. They can be hidden in the walls of the house and then sealed. Working with such pipes requires high qualifications. Copper pipes are the most expensive of all, and are used mainly in exclusive construction.
3. Polymer(metal-plastic, polyethylene, polypropylene reinforced with aluminum).

Polymer pipes are convenient for installation and do not require special professional skills of the assembler. Metal-plastic pipes (aluminum is coated with plastic on both sides) are durable, resistant to corrosion, and do not allow sediment to be deposited on the inner surface. Metal-plastic pipes are installed using press or threaded connections without welding, which reduces the cost of installation work. However, they also have a drawback: a large coefficient of thermal expansion. If only hot water flowed in the pipe for a long time, and then cold water flowed, then they may leak. Therefore, temporarily stopping the boiler in winter and defrosting the heating systems leads to irreversible damage. Another reason for a possible leak: if you bend it at an acute angle, the aluminum layer may simply break.

The choice of material for pipes should be coordinated with the designers, taking into account the possibility of alternative or “emergency” heating of the house, as well as your material capabilities. Experts note that practically the only way to get an absolutely reliable system is to use a copper pipeline that will last for more than one generation.

Water heating system

The water heating system can be single-circuit or double-circuit. A single-circuit system is intended only for heating the room. A two-circuit system is created for both heating and heating water for domestic needs. Often two single-circuit systems are used, one of which is responsible for heating, the other for heating water, then in the warm season only one system can be used, taking into account that 25% of the boiler power is spent on heating water for domestic needs.

There are three options for installing pipes indoors: one-pipe and two-pipe, manifold. Two-pipe heating systems are considered optimal for individual houses.

Single-pipe water heating for a private house

Heated water from the boiler passes sequentially from one battery to another. The last battery in this chain will be colder than the first. This system is more often used in apartment buildings.

Note: It is difficult to control a system with a single-pipe wiring: without special techniques it is impossible to block the access of the coolant to one of the radiators, since this will block access to all the others.

It is easier to regulate the temperature in the premises if two-pipe wiring. With this type of wiring, two pipes are connected to each heating device: with hot and cold water. Such pipes can be routed in a star shape.

Scheme of two-pipe heating distribution for a private house

A pipe with hot water comes to the battery and leaves with cold water. The temperature of each battery is the same.

Scheme of a two-office "loop" system

In this case, the batteries located closer to the heat producer are warmer.

There is also a radial or collector wiring, when two pipes are supplied from the collector to each heating device - forward and return.

Note: A collector in a water heating system is a device that collects coolant - water.

Scheme of collector heating for heating a private house

Collector systems are universal; they allow you to create heating systems with hidden pipe wiring. Installation can be carried out by people without special skills. This wiring diagram makes it possible to regulate the system and install special electric motors that maintain a given temperature in the rooms. The advantage is easy temperature control in each room, relative ease of installation, and the ability to replace a damaged section of pipe without destroying the floor structure. On each floor, in a special cabinet there are collectors, from which pipes go to the heating radiators, independently connected to each radiator. All shut-off valves are located in the cabinet. The need to install cabinets and high pipe costs are among the disadvantages of the collector system.

Note: The cost of the pipes will depend on the selected wiring diagram (two-pipe or single-pipe). The single-pipe scheme has a lower cost.

Calculation of the cost of a heating water system

Calculation diagram for heating water system

It is believed that to heat a room with an area of 10 square meters. you need 1 kW of heating power.

There are also correction factors:

From 2 windows facing north - 1.3;

From 2 windows facing south and east - 1.2;

1 window facing north or west - 1.1.

Example: Area 10 x 10 sq.m., two floors. 4 rooms with 2 windows each.

Based on the footage, you need a single-circuit boiler with a capacity of 25 kW (let’s say it runs on gas) or a double-circuit boiler of 28 kW to heat domestic water. On average, such a boiler can cost approximately $800. You can also choose an electric boiler, which can also cost about $800-850 for a house of this size.

Equipment:

batteries (we will choose steel ones: 8 batteries on the first floor, two for each window, size 500x800, power 1645 W; and 4 batteries on the second floor, one under the window, size 600x1000, power 2353 W);
polypropylene pipes about 200 m;
brackets;
corners;
taps and other elements;
system installation;
system design;
approvals will be about $11,000.

If you need a gas supply for a gas boiler, you need a project with approvals, which will cost about $400. Then it is necessary to install a gas pipeline, which can cost about $1,500. When choosing an electric boiler, costs are reduced due to the fact that no additional wiring is required (unlike gas boilers); therefore, a chimney and boiler room are not needed.

Note: Water heating systems have the disadvantage of labor-intensive and expensive installation and the need for preventive maintenance. If antifreeze is used in the system, then you need to remember that all antifreeze can lead to leaks in the system; after five years, the antifreeze needs to be changed, as they age and their freezing point increases.

Air heating

Air heating scheme in a private house

Air heating systems come in gravity and forced ventilation systems. With a gravity heating system, air moves due to natural circulation due to temperature differences. At different temperatures, different air densities arise, due to which natural air movement occurs in the system.

Warm air exits through the air ducts under the ceiling and, occupying a significant volume, displaces colder air (for example, near windows and doors) down and towards the air intake, thereby creating air circulation in the heated room. The disadvantage of gravitational (natural) circulation is that due to the intake of cold air from open windows, doors, and drafts, air circulation is disrupted and overheating occurs in the upper part of the room and cooling of its working part. The advantage is independence from electricity.

A forced ventilation system uses an electrically driven fan to increase air pressure and distribute it throughout the ducts and rooms. The heat carrier is air, which is heated by a heat generator, the main elements of which are a burner and a heat exchanger. The air supplied by the fan blows the heated the heat exchanger, where the combustion products exit, is heated to 45-60 degrees, then supplied through the air duct system to the rooms. Through return air ducts or through grilles, the cooled air is returned to the heat generator. The speed of air movement in systems with forced circulation is much higher. But there is a problem of noise in air ducts and distribution grilles.

The air heating system allows you to do without boilers, radiators, pipes and other elements that are used in water heating. Heat generators can operate on different types of fuel from the burner.

Operating principle and design of the system:

Heating of the premises occurs by supplying heated air there. The system operates in fully automatic mode. The main element of the system is the heat generator. Heat generators can be both stationary and mobile.

Design of a heat generator for an air heating system

In the combustion chamber of the heat generator, liquid fuel (diesel, kerosene) or gas supplied from the burner burns (gas and diesel burners have standard sizes and connections, therefore they are interchangeable). A diesel burner requires an additional tank, filters, and fuel lines for liquid fuel. Household gas heat generators can operate both on natural gas and bottled liquefied propane-butane.

Note: heating a residential building with an area of 100 sq. meters for a month at a temperature of + 24 degrees C, approximately 6 fifty-kilogram cylinders of liquefied propane will be required. An alternative to cylinders: propane tanks (sizes 2500-5000 liters) - gas holders buried in the ground; they do not require special heating).

A fan is located at the bottom of the combustion chamber; air from the room enters here, which is directed to the heat exchanger (heat generators can also carry out a small mixture of outside air). Next, the heated air is directed through the air ducts into the room, and the combustion products go into the chimney. Heated air (usually up to 45-60 degrees) and pumped directly or through air ducts, moving, creates uniform heating throughout the entire volume of the room. Through return ducts or through grates on the floor, the air returns back to the heat generator. Exhaust gases are removed through a chimney. To heat a house, an air flow rate of 1000 to 3800 m3/hour at a pressure of 150 Pa is sufficient.

If the room area is large, long air ducts can lead to heat loss, so sometimes it is possible to install several heat generators without air ducts instead of one heat generator with air ducts connected to it. The maximum length of the main air duct should be no more than 30 m, branches - no more than 15 m.

Air ducts vary:

1. According to the form: round And rectangular;
Round ducts usually have a circular cross-section with an internal diameter of 100-200 mm, they are durable and create little aerodynamic drag. Attached with a clampthe required diameter and studs.
Rectangular ducts in the form of boxes with dimensions from 100x150 mm to 3200x4000 mm. They have advantages when a large cross-sectional area is needed, or installation is carried out in difficult conditions; they fit better into the interior of rooms, save space, which is why they are more often used in private homes. They are fastened using a special profile and studs.
Both round and rectangular ducts are attached to the ceiling using drive-in anchors.
2. By hardness: hard And flexible;
Rigid ones are made of galvanized or stainless steel (both round and rectangular cross-sections). They are used in rooms of any layout and complexity. Flexible and semi-flexible air ducts of only circular cross-section are made of thermoplastic material using a spiral steel frame. They are easy to install, however, they increase aerodynamic drag
3. According to the material: metal And non-metallic;

Metal:

Chimneys are made from black steel (1.0-2.0 mm) with a primer;
Air ducts are made of copper in wet rooms: kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, swimming pools. This is the most expensive material;
Made of aluminum alloys: able to withstand high temperatures and do not corrode. Most often installed in kitchens;
Made from galvanized or stainless steel: produced with a thickness of 0.5-1.0 mm. Such air ducts have a low price, they have anti-corrosion properties, durability and increased fire resistance. (Air ducts made of galvanized steel are most often used).

Non-metallic:

Plastic air ducts have a low cost, are made of polyethylene, vinyl plastic, etc. They are light in weight, easy to install, are not subject to corrosion, and have antistatic properties. However, they have low fire resistance. Attached using metal or plastic mounting brackets.
Textile air ducts for air transportation are made of airtight fabric - polyamide, and permeable polyester fabrics are used for air supply (they are also an air filter). To ensure fire resistance, fiberglass is used. They are economical, easy to transport, easy to attach and install. However, textile air ducts only provide air flow.

Air ducts passing through unheated rooms or adjacent to an external wall must be insulated. If you plan to hide the air duct between the ceilings, then you need to place it in a metal frame and insulate it. In order to disinfect the air and refresh it, filters, humidifiers and fresheners can be built into the system. Air distributors and air intake devices are attached to the ends of the air ducts leading into the premises.

Calculation of the cost of an air heating device

Heating air system calculation diagram

Example: two-story private house with an insulated attic and basement with a total area of 300 sq. meters. Equipment and ductwork will cost approximately $8,000; consumables will be $550. (pipes and air duct wiring will cost $10-15 per p/m). Installation and commissioning works - $2300. Design and estimate work - $700.

In general, air heating without automation can cost approximately $11,000. Some companies offer the cost of installing air heating at 26-36 USD. for 1 sq. turnkey meter. Comparing these calculations with calculations for water heating, it is clear that the cost of wiring air heating, calculated at a minimum, will be lower than when creating water heating. Thanks to automation, the air heater can be turned on 3-4 times a day for 10-15 minutes to maintain the temperature. Fuel consumption during the heating season can be 30-40% lower compared to water heating.

The disadvantages of air heating include the fact that it is difficult to modify it, it requires competent calculation of air ducts and network topology, labor-intensive routing of air ducts, and installation must be done during new construction. It is necessary to condition and humidify the air in the room.

Electric heating

Among the various options for electric heating of private houses: electric convectors, ceiling infrared long-wave heaters, cable and film systems for heating floors and ceilings.

Let's consider the use of electric convectors. They are popular in low-rise suburban construction, especially in those regions where there are no gas mains.

Operating principle of electric convectors

The operation of an electric convector is based on the phenomenon of air convection (circulation), as a result of which over 80% of the heat is released into the air. The high moisture resistance and reliability of convectors allows them to be installed in bathrooms and children's rooms, since the temperature on their surface does not exceed +60 C. There are models of electric convectors that do not dehumidify the air in the room and do not burn oxygen. The operation of electric convectors is based on heating the cold air entering the device from the room. Heating is produced by a heating element made of a conductive component. After heating, the air increases in volume and rises through the louvers of the outlet grille. Additionally, the air is heated due to heat radiation from the surface of the electric convector.

Electric converter operation diagram

The level of comfort is ensured by an electronic system for maintaining the desired temperature. There are models with a built-in thermostat and with a remote thermostat. The thermostat saves energy. The air temperature sensor records the temperature in the room over a short period of time and sends a signal to the thermostat, which turns the heating element on or off. The presence of a thermostat allows you to set the operating mode once, and disconnect the device from the network only during a long absence. The built-in thermostat is affected by the temperature of the convector body, so its data may be inaccurate. The remote thermostat regulator takes into account the temperature of the point in the space in which it is installed. The remote thermostat is attached to the wall at a height of 1-1.5 m from the floor, away from drafts.

Electric convectors can be divided by size into two main groups: high - up to 45 cm high and baseboard - up to 20 cm high. High electric convectors are either placed on the floor or mounted using a special frame on the wall. Skirting convectors are convenient for installation under low windows and stained glass windows. Their power is 0.5-3.0 kW (in increments of 250 W). Dimensions in length, depending on the power, can be up to 2.5 m with a thickness of about 80 mm. For the greatest effect, it is recommended to install the electric convector at a height of up to 1 m, or under window openings. To ensure normal air flow circulation, the electric convector must not be obscured by objects at a distance of up to 0.1 m.

In terms of operating costs, this type of heating is inferior only to gas, but it is more reliable and safe. The control units are equipped with overheating protection. No grounding required. The devices are insensitive to voltage surges. The mains voltage is sufficient for operation of the device -220 V.

Calculation of the number of electric convectors

Diagram of the number of electric converters in a private house

The number and power of convectors are determined based on the volume of the room that will be heated.

The calculations can be based on the required heating power 1m3 of room: 20 W/m3 - for rooms with good thermal insulation (according to energy-saving standards of Scandinavian countries); 30 W/m3 - houses with insulated walls and ceilings, double-glazed windows; 40 W/m3. - poorly insulated houses; 50 W/m3 - poorly insulated buildings.

Example: The requirement for the main heating of a house with an area of 100 m2 and a height of 3 m (volume 300 m3) of a poorly insulated house, that is, with a need of 40 W/m3, is 12,000 W. Thus, it is possible to place four convectors with a power of 2.5 kW and one with a power of 2.0 kW in this area. Depending on the company and the availability of additional functions, the price of a convector can range from $100 to $200-250. Thus, the cost of electric convectors for this case (seven pieces) can be $1,250.

One can add to the advantages of electric convectors that, despite the generally low costs of equipment, there are no costs for maintenance and prevention.

Note: The disadvantage of electric convectors is that they heat the room unevenly in height: warm air accumulates under the ceiling, and the air temperature at the floor remains low, which is also typical for water heating; dependence on electricity can also become problematic when it is turned off; In addition, circulating flows carry dust with them. However, now some companies offer models of electric convectors that help reduce the collection of dust around the devices. If the room is large, you need to install a fan to speed up heating.

How to choose the type of heating for a private home

Based on the experience of various construction projects, we can say with confidence that the most correct choice of heating system for a particular house depends on what type of energy is most accessible, the distance of the home from populated areas, and the material capabilities of the owner. There are pros and cons to any heating system, so consult with the designers before making a decision.

Of course, if there is a gas supply to the house or even to the area, then it is best to choose water heating with a gas heat generator (boiler). Gas is currently the cheapest form of energy. However, in winter there are drops in gas pressure to 100-120 mm of water. Art., with a norm for boilers of 180 mm water. Art., which can lead to shutdown of the heating system.

For heating you can use electric convectors. If it is possible to supply electricity of sufficient power (if you have installed equipment with a power higher than 10 kW, you need to connect a three-phase wire and agree with the energy sales authorities), then you can use other types of electric heating. However, you will then be completely dependent on the electricity supply.

Owners of houses remote from civilization will have to think about creating an independent heating system.

For example: installation of solid fuel stoves and fireplaces in the house. The main danger with improperly installed stoves is the possibility of carbon dioxide entering the room, so good stove makers are needed. As an alternative to stoves, you can install a solid fuel boiler: wood and coal for water heating. By installing sensors, such boilers will be able to maintain the desired temperature without the use of electricity. Or use liquid fuel boilers, however, taking into account that emissions from burning diesel fuel are harmful to health, and also that 1 kW of energy will cost 4-5 times more than when using solid fuel.

In order to be sure that your home will always be warm, it may be worth making sure that you can use different energy sources. For example, to have a solid fuel fireplace or to purchase a boiler that runs on different types of fuel, which is produced by European manufacturers, however, its price will exceed the total price of single boilers that run on different fuels.

The most important characteristic of current costs is the cost of fuel and its consumption per unit of time.

Currently, fuel prices are approximately:

1 liter of diesel fuel - $0.4. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.04.

1 m3 of natural gas for a private owner - $0.04. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.005.

1 liter of propane-butane mixture - $0.2. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.018.

1 kWh of electrical energy for a private owner - $0.03.

1 kg of coal averages $0.2. The cost of obtaining 1 kWh of energy ($0.04).

Attention! In this article, all prices are presented for the period of 2009.

Properly organizing home heating is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists - designers and installers - can handle it best. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the entire range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, you need to have a good understanding of all stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its goal is to help you solve the problem of installing heating yourself or competently supervise hired specialists and installers.

Heating system elements

In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated with water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms using a coolant, and it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list further when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy carriers.

Any heating system, where the coolant serves as the transfer link, is divided into the following components:

heat source;
pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
heating devices (radiators or heating circuits for underfloor heating).

For the purpose of processing and regulating the coolant, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following items:

expansion tank;
circulation pump;
hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
buffer capacity;
distribution manifold;
indirect heating boiler;
devices and automation equipment.

Note. A mandatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank; other equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a confined space there is nowhere for its additional volume to go. To avoid rupture of connections due to increased pressure in the network, an open or membrane type expansion tank is installed. She takes in excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and if there are several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and a heat accumulator. Separating the boiler circulation circuit from all others is practiced in complex systems of cottages with several floors.

Collectors for coolant distribution are installed in heating systems with heated floors or in cases where a radial battery connection scheme is used, we will discuss this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil where water for domestic hot water needs is heated from the coolant. To visually monitor the temperature and pressure of water in the system, thermometers and pressure gauges are installed. Automation tools (sensors, thermostats, controllers, servos) not only control the parameters of the coolant, but also regulate them automatically.

Shut-off valves

In addition to the equipment listed, the water heating of the house is controlled and maintained using shut-off and control valves shown in the table:

Once you have become familiar with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. All sellers of heating equipment like to use the first method, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is a calculation of thermal power based on the area of heated premises.

They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 W. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing up the indicators for all rooms. We suggest a more accurate method:

by 100 W, multiply the area of those premises where only 1 wall, on which there is 1 window, is in contact with the street;
if the room is a corner one with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
when a room has 2 external walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130 W.

If we consider power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may not receive enough heat, and residents of the south of Ukraine may overpay for equipment that is too powerful. Using the second, calculation method, heating design is carried out by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before you begin the calculations, you need to measure the house, finding out the area of the walls, windows and doors. Then you need to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which the walls, floors and roofs are built. For all materials in the reference literature or on the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W/(m ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer and then sum the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat lost through the external building structure using the formula:

QTP = 1/R x (tв – tн) x S, where:
QТП – lost amount of heat, W;
S is the previously measured area of the building structure, m2;
tв – here you need to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
tн – street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, alternately substituting into the formula the values of thermal resistance and area for the external wall, window, door, floors and roof. Then all these results must be summed up, this will be the heat loss of the given room. The area of internal partitions does not need to be taken into account!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, you need to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that’s not all, because we must also take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:

Qair = cm (tв – tн), where:

Qair – required amount of heat for ventilation, W;
m – amount of air by mass, defined as the internal volume of the building multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
(tв – tн) – as in the previous formula;
с – heat capacity of air masses, is taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand for the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The boiler power is taken with a reserve for the optimal operating mode, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here you need to take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for domestic hot water supply, then the power reserve must be increased. The boiler must operate effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the energy carrier or type of fuel used. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with a brief description of their pros and cons. To heat residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of household heat generators:

solid fuel;
gas;
electrical;
on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose an energy carrier, and then a heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 types: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to their low operating costs, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all the heating equipment including installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are being purchased by people more and more often.

On the other hand, operating a solid fuel heat source is very similar to simple stove heating. You need to spend time and effort to prepare, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. The unit also requires serious piping to ensure its long-lasting and safe operation. After all, a conventional solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of water does not stop immediately. And efficient use of generated energy is possible only if there is a heat accumulator.

Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis units - 80%, and pellet units - no more than 83%.

The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator, characterized by a high level of automation and virtually no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

Gas boilers

An excellent option is to install heating that operates on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest energy-independent unit is at least 87%, and the efficiency of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to monitor or change settings. A budget unit will be much cheaper than a solid fuel unit, so gas boilers can be considered generally available.

Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity of gas equipment is steadily declining.

Electric boilers

It must be said that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only are the efficiency of boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys or ventilation. There is practically no maintenance of the units as such, except for cleaning once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: equipment and installation are very cheap, and the degree of automation can be any. The boiler simply does not need your attention.

No matter how pleasant the advantages of an electric boiler are, the main disadvantage is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you will not be able to beat a wood-burning heat generator in terms of this indicator. This is the price to pay for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second disadvantage is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately cancel out all thoughts about electric heating.

Liquid fuel boilers

In terms of the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating with waste oil or diesel fuel will cost approximately the same as with natural gas. Their efficiency indicators are also similar, although the processing, for obvious reasons, is somewhat inferior. Another thing is that this type of heating can easily be called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end with at least the smell of diesel fuel or dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot up to your waist.

Using diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution; the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Used oil has also risen in price, unless you have some cheap source. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, a main gas supply. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the exhaust furnace will not be able to burn methane.

Heating system diagrams for a private home

Heating systems sold in private housing construction can be single-pipe or double-pipe. It's easy to distinguish them:

according to a single-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both a supply and a return, passing by all the batteries in the form of a closed ring;
in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe and returned through the other.

Choosing a heating system layout for a private home is not an easy task; consultation with a specialist will certainly not hurt. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe one, but also more complex. This topic is covered in great detail in the video:

The fact is that in a single-pipe system, the water from radiator to radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe distribution lines. And lastly: automatic control with a single-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or dacha with up to 5 radiators, you can safely implement a single-pipe horizontal circuit (common name - Leningradka). With a larger number of heating devices, it will not be able to function normally, because the last radiators will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes occur quite often and work successfully.

With a two-pipe distribution, the coolant is delivered to all radiators at the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. Dividing the lines into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries using thermostatic valves.

The diameters of the pipelines are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are the following types of two-pipe schemes:

dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (arms), through which the coolant moves along the highways towards each other;

associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (radial). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the installation method is hidden, in the floor.

If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then a circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. To be fair, we note that both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function without a pump. If only conditions were created for natural water circulation.

The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion tank at the highest point, communicating with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If you install a membrane-type expansion tank on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern option, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of coolant.

It is impossible not to mention the method of heating a house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive, since you will need to lay hundreds of meters of pipes in a screed, resulting in a heating water circuit in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important advantage is the economical, uniform heating of rooms, which is very comfortable for people. Underfloor heating circuits are clearly recommended for use in any residential buildings.

Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can safely recommend adopting a conventional two-pipe circuit with forced circulation of coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.

Heating system installation

We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources that burn different types of fuel and have an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.

For natural water movement, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the ground floor radiators.

The location where the heat generator will be located must be selected taking into account the minimum permissible distances to walls or other equipment. Typically these intervals are specified in the manual supplied with the product. If this data is not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

passage width on the front side of the boiler is 1 m;
if there is no need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
distance to the nearest equipment – 0.7 m;
when placing two boilers next to each other, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, and opposite each other - 2 m.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed; you only need to maintain clearance in front of the unit for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the wiring of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. Here we must take into account that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models are equipped with an expansion tank. First, let's look at the connection diagram for a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This tying method is the most common. The pump with a bypass line and a sump tank is located on the return line, and there is also an expansion tank there. The pressure is controlled using pressure gauges, and air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. Piping an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for domestic hot water needs, the pipe layout and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall-mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial flue is used, which is led out horizontally through the wall. If the firebox of the unit is open, then you need a traditional chimney with good natural draft. How to properly install a chimney pipe made of sandwich modules is shown in the figure:

In country houses with a large area, it is often necessary to connect a boiler with several heating circuits - a radiator, heated floors and an indirect heating boiler for DHW needs. In such a situation, the optimal solution would be to use a hydraulic separator. It will allow you to organize independent circulation of coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then the basic heating diagram for a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, thanks to which it operates independently of the others. Since coolant with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to heated floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They add hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the heated floor circuits drops.

With solid fuel heat generators the situation is more complicated. Their strapping should take into account 2 points:

possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit; the firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
formation of condensation when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.

To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return side, and on the supply side there should be a safety group located immediately behind the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial; it is the valve that will relieve excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping diagram is required:

Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not allow water from the system into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 °C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:

Advice. Due to the nature of their operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners install two different heat sources in the furnace room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. For this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and an electric boiler working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and wood heat generator, supplying heat to heat the house and prepare water for hot water supply:

To install the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. The modern market offers several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private homes:

steel;
copper;
stainless steel;
polypropylene (PPR);
polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
metal-plastic.

Heating lines made of ordinary “ferrous” metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and “overgrowth” of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to independently install such pipes: you need good welding skills to make a hermetically sealed joint. However, some homeowners still use steel pipes to this day when they install autonomous heating at home.

Copper or stainless steel pipes are an excellent choice, but they are too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if you have the means, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel is joined using dismountable or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially when the installation is hidden.

Advice. For piping boilers and laying pipelines within the boiler room, it is best to use any type of metal pipes.

Heating made from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, you need to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only advantage, since installing heating from polypropylene pipes is quite a complex and responsible task. And in appearance, polypropylene is inferior to other plastic products.

The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are made by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will certainly leak later, but if it is overheated, the melted polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, you won’t be able to see this during assembly; flaws will make themselves known later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid “saber” bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

It is much easier to make your own heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are the most convenient, since the joints here are made quite simply. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: connections must be made using press fittings, not collapsible ones.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water-heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that it tends to return to its original state, which can cause the installed heating manifold to appear slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and easily bend as you need. More information about choosing pipes is described in the video:

An ordinary homeowner, going to a heating equipment store and seeing a wide selection of different radiators there, can conclude that choosing batteries for his home is not so easy. But this is the first impression; in fact, there are not so many varieties of them:

aluminum;
bimetallic;
steel panel and tubular;
cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Sectional batteries made of aluminum alloy have the best heat transfer rates; bimetallic heaters are not far behind them. The difference between the two is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This was done for the purpose of using the devices in centralized heat supply systems of high-rise buildings, where the pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage makes no sense at all.

It should be noted that heating installation in a private home will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer rates are lower than those of aluminum ones, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to designer ones.

Steel and aluminum heating devices have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic regulation using thermostatic valves. The same cannot be said about massive cast iron batteries, on which it is pointless to install such valves. This is due to the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time and then retain heat for some time. Also because of this, the rate of heating of the premises is reduced.

If we touch on the issue of appearance aesthetics, then the cast-iron retro radiators currently offered are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost incredible amounts of money, and inexpensive Soviet-style accordions MS-140 are only suitable for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion suggests itself:

For a private home, buy those heating devices that you like best and are comfortable with in terms of cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and thermal power.

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

The number of sections or the size of a panel radiator is selected based on the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning; it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for a temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room equal to 70 °C. To do this, the water in the battery must warm up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the real thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than that indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper heating of the premises, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer margin is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you must take heating devices with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.

Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank external walls. In this case, connection to highways can be done in several ways:

lateral one-sided;
diagonal scalene;
lower - if the radiator has appropriate pipes.

The lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when connecting it to risers, and the diagonal connection to horizontally laid highways. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat evenly.

When a single-pipe heating system is installed, the lower versatile connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are models of radiators where the design provides for connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and, in fact, they have a one-sided side circuit. This can be clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

A lot of useful information on the issue of choosing heating devices can be found by watching the video:

5 common mistakes during installation

Of course, when installing a heating system, you can make many more than five mistakes, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

incorrect choice of heat source;
errors in heat generator piping;
incorrectly selected heating system;
careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
improper installation and connection of heating devices.

A boiler with insufficient power is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat rooms, but also to prepare water for domestic hot water needs. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the hot water system will not heat up to the required temperature.

Parts play not only a functional role, but also serve safety purposes. For example, it is recommended to install the pump on the return pipeline just before the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap in the area between the boiler and the safety group; this is absolutely unacceptable.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point; with a closed circuit, it is placed on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a mud trap mounted in a horizontal position with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines using American connections.

When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incurring additional costs to bring it to fruition. Most often, errors occur when installing single-pipe systems, when they try to “hang” more than 5 radiators on one branch, which then do not heat up. Flaws during the installation of the system include failure to comply with slopes, poor-quality connections and installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or a regular ball valve is placed at the inlet of the radiator, and a balancing valve is installed at the outlet to adjust the heating system. If pipes are installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the way. When joining polypropylene pipes, you must scrupulously adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.

Choosing a coolant

It is well known that filtered and, if possible, desalted water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, for example, periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with a non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all regular rubber gaskets from the system. Antifreeze quickly causes them to become limp and leaks occur.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is shown in its technical data sheet. This must be checked when purchasing it.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through a make-up valve and a check valve. During the filling process, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and manual Mayevsky taps. In a closed circuit, pressure is monitored using a pressure gauge. Usually when cold it is in the range of 1.2-1.5 Bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 Bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the replenishment when it flows out of the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system using a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. To ensure that the process is not interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of appropriate capacity, from where it must be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into the expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you carefully understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that installing a heating system in a private house on your own is quite possible. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including monitoring the installation if you decide to hire specialists for this.

Diagram of a heating unit for a private house. Closed water heating system

Types of heating systems

With water coolant

Air heating

Electric heating

Steam heating

Heating system "warm floor"

Selecting a heating boiler

Advantages of gas boilers

Electric heating boilers

Solid fuel models

Combined units

Heat loss calculation

DIY heating system installation

Installation of heating pipes

Selection and installation of radiators

Primary requirements

Pipe diameter

Reducing the resistance of pipes and circuits

Wiring diagrams

Price for 1m2 of work

What home heating systems are there?

Types of boilers

Gas

Electric

Solid fuel

Combined

Types of heating systems

How to calculate power

Power calculation factors

Forced coolant circulation

Coolant circulation by gravity

DIY installation of a water heating system

How to calculate the required number of radiators

Localized

Central heating

Electric heating

Steam heating

Warm floor

Water heated floor

Electric heated floor

How to choose heating for your home

The most common types of home heating systems

Water heating

Water heating system

Calculation of the cost of a heating water system

Air heating

Calculation of the cost of an air heating device

Electric heating

Operating principle of electric convectors

Calculation of the number of electric convectors

How to choose the type of heating for a private home

Heating system elements

Shut-off valves

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

Heat consumption for ventilation

Solid fuel boilers

Gas boilers

Electric boilers

Liquid fuel boilers

Heating system diagrams for a private home

Heating system installation

Boiler connection

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

5 common mistakes during installation

Choosing a coolant

Conclusion

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