Water supply in a house made of timber. Water supply in a wooden house: what is included in utilities, tips on network design

Nowadays, it is possible to install an autonomous water supply in a private house, which significantly increases the comfort of living. Now there is no need to carry heavy buckets and heat water in a basin to take water procedures. If the water supply is installed in a building under construction, it is possible to take into account all wishes at the design stage, and its implementation will be much easier. If the building has been erected and has been in use for a long time, then arranging a water supply is more difficult, but possible.

Schematic diagram of the water supply system in the house

Laying out a water supply system in a private house that is in operation requires solving additional problems of tying the pipeline to the existing premises and the location of plumbing fixtures. In addition, you will need to knock out openings in the walls, floor and foundation for laying pipes. All this creates additional difficulties, but can be implemented if desired.

Plumbing systems

Depending on the power source, there are:

1. Centralized water supply system. It is arranged if a central water supply pipe runs near the house, to which the water supply is supplied. Such a system is easier and cheaper to install, but in the future you will need to pay for the water supply. In addition, it is difficult to control water quality.
2. Autonomous water supply system. Requires significant physical and financial costs, but the water quality is much higher. Autonomous water supply is absolutely independent of public water supply. The power source is wells or boreholes located on the plot.

Source drinking water, from which the fence for the water supply is made, must be no closer than 20 meters from the cesspool, compost heap, toilet, septic tank, etc.

Pump and its connection

Most often, submersible or surface pump s. The choice depends on the water supply source. First you need to decide whether it will be a well or a borehole. A well is much cheaper; this work can be done with your own hands. But its installation requires a lot of physical effort, and the water in the well, due to its shallow depth, does not undergo sufficient natural filtration and contains many harmful components. For wells up to 8 meters deep, it is advisable to install a surface pump and lower a flexible hose from it into the water for intake. The pump itself can be installed in the house, utility room or directly near the well.

The well is installed by specialists using special equipment. They conduct surveys on the availability and quality of water. Wells are installed quickly, and the water from them is always clean. Well installation is very expensive. To draw water from a well, a submersible pump is used, which is lowered to a great depth in the water.

Left – surface, right – submersible pumps

Plumbing diagrams

There are two main water supply connection schemes:

1. The sequential connection scheme is used for temporary water supply, for a summer residence or for a house with low water consumption. In this scheme, all plumbing fixtures are connected in series, from one pipe. If one plumbing fixture is working, then the pressure in all others drops significantly.
2. Collector circuit plumbing requires large expenses for the device and materials, but it is possible to operate several devices simultaneously without loss of pressure in the pipe. In this case, water is supplied to the collector, and pipes extend from it to each plumbing fixture separately.

Water pipe connection diagram

1. A control station that regulates the operation of the pump and turns it off in case of danger.
2. Cord with plug for connecting to the mains.
3. A cord with a socket to which the pump is connected.
4. Circuit breaker. If there is a danger to the equipment, it turns off.
5. Electrical power socket in the house.
6. A submersible pump is lowered into the well casing, takes water and delivers it to the surface.
7. A cord that provides power to the pump.
8. Nipple for connecting pipes; has threads on both ends.
9. A check valve is designed to prevent water from returning to the pump.
10. An injection pipe through which water is supplied from a well to the surface.
11. The crosspiece ensures the intersection of pipes in one plane.
12. Transition nipple is designed for connecting pipes of different diameters.
13. Flexible hose that connects to the control station.
14. A hydraulic accumulator is a container for storing water.
15. Pipes for supply to consumers.

When laying pipes, the most labor-intensive process is preparing the building structure. Following the laying diagram, you need to make holes in the walls and drill grooves. Thanks to them, it will be possible to hide pipes in the walls.

Types of pipes

Steel

These are traditional pipes that have been tested for many years, and which until recently were most widespread. Nowadays, they are being replaced by pipes made from modern materials that have better technical performance.

Pros:

• Relatively low cost;
• Strength of the material;
• A wide range of fittings for them.

Minuses:

• Are subject to corrosion;
• Plaque formation on the inner walls of pipes;
• Good electrical conductivity: if a wire breaks, current is transmitted through the steel structure and can cause injury;
• High labor costs during installation. The pipes are connected by welding, which can only be done by a qualified specialist, or by threaded connections. Installation is difficult and dangerous.

Galvanized

The product is much better quality and more reliable. The surface coated with zinc does not corrode, and deposits of salts or other minerals do not stick to it.

Pros:

• High strength;
• Do not corrode;
• There is no sediment left on the walls;

Minuses:

• High price;
• Conductivity of electricity;
• Corrosion may form at the joints;
• Difficult to install.

Copper

Copper pipes have many advantages, but the cost of such material is quite high. It is advisable to use them to play with water pipes in the interior of the house, because... they have a beautiful appearance.

Pros:

• Do not corrode;
• Deposits do not stick to the pipe walls;
• Wide operating temperature range;
• Aesthetic appearance;
• Long service life.

Minuses:

• High price;
• Small range of fittings for pipes;
• Difficulty of installation;
• Due to the thin walls of the pipe, it is easy to damage.

Metal-plastic

These pipes appeared on the market not long ago and have already become widespread. They combine the qualities of metal and plastic.

Pros:

• Do not corrode;
• Do not conduct electricity;
• Easy installation;
• Large range of fittings.

As a minus, one can consider the fact that their service life is limited.

Polypropylene

These pipes have the best technical characteristics.

Pros:

• Low cost;
• Easy to install. Soldering pipes can be easily done with your own hands without noise and dust, and the soldering equipment has compact dimensions;
• Elasticity, which prevents damage;
• Strength of the material;
• Long service life.

The only disadvantage is that the connections can no longer be disconnected.

Polypropylene pipes For hot water must be fiberglass reinforced.

Pipes and fittings for water supply

Pipe diameter

Choosing the right diameter is very important for the water supply system. If the diameter is small, then extraneous noise will occur inside the water pipe, and if it is large, the pressure will decrease and more energy will be required to provide the required pressure.

The diameter is determined based on the length of the water pipe:

• For lengths ≤ 10 meters Ø = 20 mm;
• For lengths ≤ 30 meters Ø = 25 mm;
• If more than 30 meters Ø = 32 mm.

Water consumption is determined based on the diameter and number of plumbing fixtures. Based on these indicators, the required collector is determined:

• Ø 25 mm passes 30 liters of liquid in 1 minute
• Ø 32 mm passes 50 liters of liquid in 1 minute

Initially, it is necessary to determine the number of consumers and the length of the water supply system; based on this, the optimal pipe diameter is determined.

Water supply installation

Installation is carried out from the power source to the consumer. Installation begins with installing a pump in a well or a pumping station for a well.

Pump installation

The pumping station is installed on the surface. You can place it in the house, which will simplify control, but it is noisy in operation. The most suitable place for her – utility room.

A submersible pump is lowered into a deep well. A cable is connected to the unit to secure it at the desired depth. Using an adapter or clamp, a flexible hose is attached, through which water is supplied to the hydraulic accumulator.

Installation of a hydraulic accumulator

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to maintain stable pressure in the water supply system and protects the pump from idling. Such a device is an optional element of the system; it is installed in two cases:

• to increase water pressure in the system;
• in case of interruptions in water supply.

What do hydraulic accumulators look like?

The hydraulic accumulator is mounted at the highest point of the water supply system, but so that it can be accessed. A tee comes out of the storage tank, on which is installed shut-off valves. The other two outlets go to the cold header and water heater.

Collector device

The collector is designed to uniformly distribute pressure in pipes for all consumers. The number of collector pipes depends on the number of plumbing fixtures that are consumers.

Cold water collector

Cold water from a pump or filter is supplied to the collector. Shut-off valves with drain tap so that, if necessary, you can disconnect the manifold from the pipe.

For best quality water filters are installed. They must be installed in front of the collector and boiler.

The second flow is directed to the boiler, which heats the water to the required temperature and is supplied to the hot collector, where distribution to consumers occurs.

Each collector outlet has a shut-off valve and, in case repair work one device, the entire system continues to operate uninterruptedly. A separate cold and hot water pipeline is laid from the distributor to each device. For a private house and apartment best choice are polypropylene pipes.

How to solder polypropylene pipes with your own hands:

1. The dimensions of the pipes for distribution are determined and cut to the required length. Cutting is easy to do with your own hands using special scissors. It is important to ensure that the blade of the scissors is perpendicular to the pipe.
2. The depth of the adhesion is marked at the edges.
3. The soldering area must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust.
4. A nozzle of the appropriate diameter is installed on the soldering iron.
5. The soldering iron turns on and heats up to the desired temperature.
6. The pipe moves in the soldering iron nozzle to the mark.
7. After 7 seconds, the nozzle is removed and the pipes are connected. You need to hold them a little, but do not rotate them.

Soldering water pipes

Installation of water supply

The water pipeline is laid from the collector to each consumer in the following sequence:

1. The distributor has taps for each pipeline; if not, then shut-off valves are installed.
2. A pipe comes out of the tap.
3. The next pipe is connected with a fitting using a soldering iron.
4. For rotation, a corner fitting is installed.
5. To adjust the pipes to size, they are cut with special scissors.
6. Clips are mounted to the wall, with the help of which the pipe is attached to the wall.
7. Water consumption devices are connected (washbasin, shower, sink faucets; compact; washing machine, dishwasher and others).

Piping in the house

• If pipes pass through walls, then it is advisable to protect the pipe with a ring at the point of passage to avoid their contact.
• The distance between the pipes should be 200-250 mm for ease of repair work.
• It is necessary to secure the pipes using special clips mounted on the wall. Fastenings are installed in corners, and on flat areas they are located at a distance of 1500-2000 mm.
• Angles and turns in the pipeline must be minimized.

Video about water supply

About the water supply system in country house This video will tell you with your own hands.

After a little instruction, you can easily install the water pipe yourself. For this you will need necessary tool. During operation, you need to monitor the reliability of the connections so that there is no leakage. High-quality work will ensure reliable operation of the water supply system for a long time.

In contact with

Modern summer cottages and suburban areas are unthinkable without amenities. Electricity, sewerage and running water are now available in almost all of them. Most construction work Laying networks can be done independently. For example, to provide water, a do-it-yourself water supply scheme for a private house will help.

Making a diagram

The water supply system in a private house can be divided into two parts: the external main and the internal distribution to the points of consumption. Water can be supplied from several sources:

• well;
• well;
• existing main water supply.

Inside the house there must be a water supply to the following objects:

• kitchen sinks;
• toilets;
• baths;
• washbasins;
• shower cabins;
• bath rooms;
• conclusions for watering a vegetable garden or garden.

The water supply scheme for a private house must take into account all the nuances of the location and location of water intake, as well as the location of pipes entering the premises and routing inside to points of consumption.

Depending on the number of consumers and their location, internal wiring can be carried out in two ways:

• sequential;
• collector

At sequential circuit Connection of consumers to the network is made through tees mounted on a single main pipe. This option is suitable for small houses with a minimum number of subscribers. It turns out economically and simply, but the pressure in a remote area and on the upper floors when using several taps at the same time is noticeably reduced.

Plumbing in a private house with big amount consumption points or those located on the second floor, it is advisable to equip them according to the second option. The collector circuit involves connecting the so-called “combs” - collectors. In this case, each subscriber is powered personally from his output. In this case, the pressure is the same everywhere, but, of course, the cost of the water supply system will be higher, since a separate outlet is required for each consumer.

It is advisable to install two collectors in the water supply system: separately for distributing hot and cold water.

Inside the new house or in its basement, you will need to allocate and equip a separate room or place in which you will need to install a water supply management system. It includes:

• external main line input unit;
• pumping station;
• hydraulic accumulator;
• collectors;
• shut-off valves - taps;
• boiler.

Advice: “It is convenient to install the water distribution system in the boiler room if there is enough free space there.”

After the layout of the water supply network is finally thought out and executed in the form of a drawing on paper, and this is very useful in further work, we move on to the installation of mounting holes.

IN wooden house An electric drill with the required drill or bit diameter will help with this, and in a stone drill, a hammer drill. Particular attention should be paid to laying the main pipe. At the point where it passes from the street into the room, a segment should be laid metal pipe- a kind of coupling through which the water supply should be laid. Subsequently, the gap between them is sealed with polyurethane foam. The same metal glasses are also used when making holes in interior and interfloor passages.

Do-it-yourself plumbing installation

Once a water distribution diagram for a private home has been drawn up and all the nuances have been taken into account, it’s time to start planning the purchase of the necessary materials and equipment. We will need two kits: for external connections and for laying water supply pipes inside a private house.

Types of pipes depending on material

In a modern autonomous water supply system, several types of pipes are used:

• metal: copper or steel;
• polypropylene;
• made of metal-plastic;
• made of polyethylene low pressure- PND.

Copper pipes are the most expensive, but have many advantages. They are practically resistant to corrosion and are not affected by harmful radiation or temperature changes. Only a specialist can carry out independent installation of such material. Steel pipes are gradually going out of fashion. Only an experienced welder can lay water pipes from them. It is no coincidence that old iron water pipes are currently being replaced with plastic ones.

Polypropylene today is the most common material for laying home water pipes. Such pipes are used both for external mains and for arranging internal network water supply. The only differences here are in diameter. Welding of joints is carried out with a special apparatus, which can be purchased or rented at a hardware store. You will also need a cutter to make pieces of the required length.

For hot water distribution, special heat-resistant products are chosen.

Metal-plastic is a symbiosis of aluminum and plastic. Assembling a water pipe from this material will not require anything other than wrenches and a cutter. Minus - they cannot withstand high temperatures: over 95°C, and low temperatures: below -5°C. As a result, such pipes are not used as external connections. HDPE pipes are assembled manually on couplings, similar to installation from metal-plastic. They are mainly used to organize external highways.

Pipe diameter

When drawing up a plan for your water supply, decide what diameter of pipes will be used; the throughput of the entire system will depend on this. Usually they are guided by the speed of water passage, which should be at least 2 m/s.

Here is a short table showing the dependence of the optimal pipe diameter on the length of the network:

• up to 10 m - 15 mm;
• 10-15 m - 20 mm;
• 15-30 m - 25 mm;
• over 30 m - 32 mm.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

If a water supply system made of metal-plastic and HDPE is assembled by tightening special nuts on corners, taps and other fittings, then a special apparatus for welding them will help to make the wiring from polypropylene pipes. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Adapters-heaters of the required diameter are inserted into the device.
2. The pipes are cut into pieces of the required length, the connecting elements are prepared: couplings, angles, taps, tees, etc.
3. The joints are degreased; for this it is convenient to use special alcohol wipes.
4. With the device turned on, set the heating mode recommended in the documentation for polypropylene.
5. When the indicator on the device goes out, indicating that the heating is optimal for welding, you should place a piece of pipe and a connecting element on different sides of the device.
6. After waiting a few seconds (according to the instructions), the water supply elements are removed and pressed firmly against each other. The heating and holding time in a stationary state depends on the thickness of the pipe and is always indicated in the instructions for the device.

It is better to carry out the work with an assistant, and place thermal insulating material under the device to protect the floor from high temperatures.

Plumbing in the house

The laying of pipes around the house begins from the points of consumption to the input node or collectors. Installation is carried out using special clips or other fastenings to the walls. At the same time, an optimal gap from structures of 20-25 mm is maintained. To ensure the installation and optimal operation of pipelines, various plumbing fittings are used:

• corners;
• fitting;
• couplings;
• taps;
• tees.

We connect the pumping station to the internal water supply

When using a well, water is supplied to the house by an automatic system consisting of several important elements:

• pump;
• water storage device - hydraulic accumulator;
• regulating automation.

If all the elements are assembled into a single mechanism, we have a pumping station. It has fittings:

• to obtain water from a well or borehole;
• for supplying water to the internal network.

When the station is turned on, the pump pumps water into the accumulator. When a certain pressure is reached, the automation turns off the pump.

When water is consumed, the pressure gradually drops to a certain value, after which the automation starts the pump again.

Advice: “When connecting a station, do not forget to install shut-off valves at the entrance and exit to consumers. This will help cut off the apparatus for repair work.”

Hydraulic accumulator - what is it and why is it needed?

The second option for the water supply system is spaced. In this case, the pump is used of a submersible type and is located in a well or well. In this case, only a hydraulic accumulator and automation are installed in the distribution unit. The advantages of this system are its low noise level and the ability to use a high-capacity hydraulic accumulator. The hydraulic accumulator, as the name suggests, accumulates water and ensures that it remains at increased pressure.

This is what allows liquid to be supplied to any point in the water supply. Inside the battery there is a rubber chamber into which water is supplied by a pump, and air around it in a metal cylinder. By pumping water into the chamber, the pump compresses the air in the cylinder. When you open the tap, the pressure drops due to the fact that the air gap squeezes water out of the chamber.

Filters for water purification

To protect the system from mechanical impurities, a coarse filter is installed at a distance of 50-100 cm from the pumping station or hydraulic accumulator. It is a glass with a filter element. It is not difficult to control its contamination; everything is clearly visible through the transparent wall.

Installing the manifold and boiler

After the filter, other water supply units are installed. First, a tee is installed, dividing the flow into two parts:

• cold water collector;
• line leading to the boiler.

After the boiler, a second collector is installed, designed to separate heated water streams.

The system is equipped with shut-off valves, and a safety valve is also installed in the hot water supply line and expansion tank. Installing a water supply system in a private house is difficult only at first glance. Having thoroughly understood the process, it is easy to do all the work yourself, without involving outside experts. This will not only save you money cash, but will also become a source of special pride for the owner.

Water supply to a house is an objective condition for the normal living of its residents. SNiP 2.04.01-85 “Rate of water consumption by consumers” regulates water consumption in the range from 80 to 230 liters. per day per resident. Consumption depends on availability centralized water supply, sewerage, bath or shower, the presence of a water heating column and other factors.

In multi-storey and communal buildings this issue is resolved by connecting to the central water supply system. For private country house or cottages, you have to provide water supply yourself.

Of course, once you can bring water from an external source in the amount of needs it will not be difficult. But how to provide water to a family for a long time?

This article will help solve this problem, in which the types of water supply, diagrams, systems and methods of their construction are structured in detail. The nuances of doing the main types of work with your own hands are also indicated.

Types and methods of water supply to a private home

From the standpoint of the dependence of the water supply source on external factors, two fundamentally can be distinguished: different types delivery of water to the user:

Centralized water supply at home

In essence, the same autonomous, but within the region. In this case, the user does not need to worry about arranging a source of water. All you need to do is connect (cut into) the central water main.

Connecting the house to the central water supply

All actions come down to the step-by-step implementation of a number of requirements, including:

• contacting the regional utility organization MPUVKH KP "Vodokanal" (Municipal Enterprise "Water Supply and Sewerage Management"), which controls the central main;

• receiving technical characteristics insets. The document contains data on the location of connection of the user's pipe system to the main line and its depth. In addition, the diameter of the main pipes is indicated there and, accordingly, instructions for choosing home pipe distribution. The water pressure indicator (guaranteed water pressure) is also indicated here;

• receive an estimate for connection, which is developed by a utility or contractor;

• control the execution of work. Which are also usually performed by UPKH;

• perform system testing.

Advantages of central water supply: convenience, simplicity.

Disadvantages: fluctuations in water pressure, questionable quality of incoming water, dependence on central supplies, high cost of water.

Autonomous water supply at home

You can independently provide water supply to your dacha, private or country house using an autonomous water supply. In essence, this is an integrated approach that includes measures for installing a water supply system, starting with providing a source of water supply, ending with its discharge into the sewer system.

An autonomous water supply system can be presented in the form of two component subsystems:

• water delivery: imported, groundwater, from open source;

• supply to points of consumption: gravity, using a pump, with the installation of a pumping station.

Therefore, in a generalized form, two water supply schemes can be distinguished: gravity (storage container with water) and automatic water supply.

Using a container (water tank)

The essence of the autonomous water supply scheme for a house is that water is supplied to the tank using a pump or poured manually.

Water flows to the user by gravity. After all the water in the tank has been used, it is filled again to the maximum possible level.

This method is supported by its simplicity; it is suitable if water is needed from time to time. For example, in a country house that is not visited often or in a utility room.

This water supply arrangement, despite its simplicity and low cost, is too primitive, inconvenient and, moreover, creates a significant weight on the interfloor (attic) floor. As a result, the system has not found widespread use and is more suitable as a temporary option.

Using an automatic water supply system

This diagram demonstrates the functioning of a fully autonomous water supply system for a private home. Water is supplied to the system and to the user using a system of components.

This is what we will talk about in more detail.

You can implement a completely autonomous water supply for a private home on your own by implementing one of the schemes. There are several device options to choose from:

1. Water from open sources

These can be surface sources: ponds, rivers, lakes. In some cases, such sources may be water purification systems. But in our country they are not yet widespread.

Important! Water from most open sources is not suitable for consumption. It can only be used for irrigation or other technical needs.

Obtaining water from an open source requires the creation of sanitary protection of water intake sites and is regulated by the provisions of SanPiN 2.1.4.027-9 “Zones of sanitary protection of water supply sources and drinking water pipelines.”

2. Water from underground sources: pools and aquifers

This water is, in most cases, suitable for consumption.

How to install water in a private house with your own hands

A step-by-step guide to choosing and installing water supply in a country cottage or country house from A to Z

The house water supply scheme consists of the following elements:

1. water source;
2. pipe system;
3. pump, hydraulic accumulator, automation relay;
4. filters;
5. fittings, valves, check valves and plumbing fixtures;
6. water heating equipment (for hot water supply);
7. sewerage

Element 1. Water source

When starting to ensure autonomous water supply, you should determine the source of water supply and equip it.

Among the subtypes of autonomous water supply with an underground source of water supply are:

1.1 ordinary well;

1.2 Abyssinian well;

1.3 well “for sand”;

1.4 artesian well.

The final choice will depend on the type and characteristics of the soil, the depth of the water, and the productivity of the water vein.

1.1 Regular well

A traditional well is preferred when the water vein is located at a depth of 4-15 m. These are the so-called interstratal water sources. In addition to the depth of occurrence, it is important to determine the productivity of the vein. The incoming water must be sufficient to meet the needs of the family and/or household. Using a well, you can ensure a water supply of 500 liters/day.

The undoubted advantages of the well are:

• independence from electricity supplies. This way, in the event of a power outage, water can be collected using a bucket;
• long service life (up to 50 years), which has been tested in practice;
• low cost of work;
• simplicity of the device.

It should be noted that due to the shallow depth of water intake, it may be of poor quality. This is due to the likelihood of groundwater entering the well. The well is also characterized by changes in water level.

Important! When setting up a well, you need to position it correctly in terms of distance from above-ground buildings. It should not be located close to buildings, the optimal distance is 5 m (this will prevent erosion of the foundation of the building). In this case, the distance to direct sources of pollution (gutter, toilet, other sources) must be at least 50 m.

To dig a well you need to perform a number of steps:

• take a water sample;

Important! Before installing a well on your property, try your neighbors’ water, or better yet, have it analyzed. It may happen that the water will be unfit for consumption and all efforts will be in vain.

• obtain a conclusion about the quality of the soil and the depth of the aquifer. In practice, wells are often dug “by eye”;

• determine the place to dig a well. To do this, you can involve specialists and use special devices - indicator frames. And you can watch the dew for several months. The largest accumulation of Ross in certain place speaks of the proximity of water;

• choose a building material for finishing the walls of the well (shaft). The following materials are most often used for these purposes:

Reinforced concrete rings, which are manufactured in factories or cast independently. Their diameter is 1-1.5 m.p., and the estimated service life is up to 50 years. The obvious advantage of using rings is the possibility of deepening up to 20 m, high speed and greater safety carrying out work. In addition, rings are installed as work progresses;

Small-piece materials: brick, rubble stone. This material is only suitable for wells with a depth of no more than 3-4 m. Its use significantly increases the labor intensity of the work;

Treated logs. For finishing shaft wells, logs made of wood that are resistant to exposure to high humidity are suitable. These include oak, larch, and pine. The diameter of the logs must be at least 120 mm.

• dig a well shaft. To reduce the cost of work, this is usually done manually. You can determine the dimensions of the shaft in this way: measure the diameter of the concrete circles, measure their thickness and add 10-15 cm to the backfill. Then, with a circle diameter of 1 m and a thickness of 10 cm, the diameter of the shaft will be 1.4 m. If you plan to use another material, for example, brick, then it is enough to indicate the desired diameter of the well and add two thicknesses of material to it;

• finish the well - internal and external.

1.2 Abyssinian well

Water supply to a country house from an Abyssinian well or needle well is the easiest way to get water at minimal cost. To do this, just follow a number of steps:

• check the water;
• choose a place for a well;
• hammer a needle hole;
• install check valve and pump (manual or automatic).

The reason for the increased popularity of wells is the purity of the incoming water, tightness, ease of drilling, the ability to connect a pump, and a long service life (up to 30 years), a significant amount of incoming water - more than 1000 l/day. Among the disadvantages are the shallow driving depth and dependence on the composition of the soil.

1.3 Sand well

In this case, water also comes from interstratal sources. A sand well makes it possible to obtain cleaner water, since the aquifers are located after the loam, which filters the water.

Thus, the well is used if the depth of the aquifer reaches 40 m.p.

The well has a shorter service life (up to 10 years) and can produce up to 50 cubic meters. water per day. The well is distinguished by ease of drilling and less soil excavation.

A detailed description of how to make a well with graphical visualization is presented in the video

1.4 Artesian well

Allows the use of water from significant depths. The depth of the well reaches 150 m, which allows you to obtain high quality water. The unlimited supply of water is also an argument in favor of an artesian well. At the same time, the service life of the well increases compared to the previous option to 50 years.

The method of drilling an artesian well is identical to the previous one. The only difference in that a mechanical drilling method is used: auger, rotary, core or percussion-rope. The well design is shown in the diagram.

Important! By law, artesian water is a strategic reserve of the state. Therefore, there is a need to register an artesian well.

Element 2. Pipes for water supply

Water supply cannot be organized without installing an extensive system of pipes, both external and internal, and a water tank.

Galvanized, polyethylene, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are used for wiring.

Important! Usage plastic pipes prevents rust and leakage. They are also more convenient to give the desired shape. The estimated service life of a polypropylene pipe is 50 years.

External pipes are laid in the ground.

Important! The depth of pipe laying depends on the level of soil freezing (indicated in SNiPs, for middle zone In Russia the depth is about 1.5 m.). The pipes are located below this value. In this case, the system is not in danger of freezing and, as a result, deformation.

Advice. To prevent water from stagnating in the pipe, it must be laid at an angle to the house.

Next, one end of the pipe is inserted into the house (for this, a hole is left in the foundation into which steel pipe. It will prevent deformation of the water supply pipe in case of shrinkage of the house). The second one is lowered into the well.

Element 3. Pump or pumping station for water supply

The pump can be installed in the house (basement or utility room)

Or it can be installed in a caisson or pit (directly above the well). The diagram shows the installation of a submersible pump and a surface pump in a caisson.

To get a caisson you need to dig a hole 2-3 m deep. Lay a sand-crushed stone cushion on the bottom and fill it with concrete. It is convenient to lay the walls with bricks. A pump is installed in the caisson, and the contour of the caisson is filled with concrete (layer about 0.4 m).

There are two types of pumps:

Submersible pumps. They plunge into water (well, borehole) and raise the water. For convenience, such pumps are equipped with automation, which allows you to pump water from your home.

Surface pumps. They are pumping stations equipped with a hydraulic accumulator and a relay.

The hydraulic accumulator performs the functions of a water tower.

Relay - regulates the pressure of the pumping station.

Operating principle of a surface pump

The principle of operation is as follows: the pump supplies water to the accumulator, which accumulates it. After the water is turned on in the house, the pressure in the system decreases. After reaching a critical level of 2.2 bar, the relay turns on, which in turn turns on the pump. The pump supplies water to the accumulator until the pressure is restored to 3 bar. After this, the relay turns off the pump.

You can select a pump based on the following data:

• depth of water (bottom of a well or borehole);
• height of water in the source shaft;
• height of the water point;
• volume of water consumed (m3).

The water intake pipe of the pump is lowered into the source. To avoid clogging of the pipe, filters are installed on its edge.

Important! The pipe is installed at a distance of 20-40 cm from the bottom (gravel cushion). The distance is determined by the height of the water at the source.

Advice. To prevent the pipe in a traditional well from moving, it must be secured to a special pin located at the bottom.

Element 4. Filters for the water supply system

Cleaning the water entering the pipe system is an important aspect of the water supply at home. Two types of filters are used for cleaning:

The first is installed on the edge of the pipe placed in the well. It purifies water from mechanical impurities;

The second is directly in the house and can be a complex multi-stage filter system. Water purification diagram in the figure.

Item 5. Fittings, valves and plumbing

These are the elements that are necessary for a hermetically sealed connection of pipes with each other and with other devices.

Important! To prevent system rupture and water leakage, try to use only high-quality shut-off valves.

Plumbing fixtures include: taps, cisterns, water seals (siphons). You shouldn't skimp on their quality either.

Element 6. Water heating equipment

Will be needed if there is a need for hot water supply, i.e. almost always.

Important! To arrange hot water supply, it is necessary to provide a separate outlet to the heating device.

In this case, there are several options for choosing heating equipment:

• double-circuit boiler. It will simultaneously heat water for heating and domestic needs;

• single-circuit boiler. Designed exclusively for heating water for user needs. A boiler is required for such a boiler. In this case, the boiler can be storage or flow-through. In the first case, it becomes possible to heat a large volume of water;

• electric storage water heater, allowing to satisfy the need for hot water of a significant number of users;

• some instantaneous water heaters. They will heat water for each consumer individually. This system allows for more efficient use of electricity for heating water.

Element 7. Sewerage

Once the location for draining the used water has been determined, the process of arranging the water supply can be considered complete.

Water drainage is an essential component and the more water is consumed, the more it needs to be drained. This means we need to approach this stage responsibly. There are also two options here:

• crash into the central sewer;

• equip your own autonomous sewerage system. A septic tank or sedimentation tank is designed to collect water. Concrete and plastic septic tanks are shown in the photo. And their volume and quantity (total volume) depends on the amount of water consumed.

The video explains the rules for building a septic tank for a country house.

The water supply process from design to construction is shown in the video

Conclusion

As we see, there are different schemes water supply for a private home, from simple to complex, respectively, some will cost less, while others will cost more. Also, the cost of water supply is affected by the structural soundness, i.e. you will need a water supply device that operates periodically (temporarily) or year-round - in winter and summer. In any case, the implementation of each system is possible with your own hands, but requires knowledge and skills.

Even an inexperienced craftsman can install the water supply system of a private home with his own hands. Manufacturers of modern water fittings have done everything possible to simplify the technology for joining water supply elements. And we will tell you about the procedure for installing a home water supply system - from marking the lines to running water into the taps.

How does household plumbing work?

In most cases, the water supply to a private home is based on offline source drinking quality. This could be a well or a borehole. Therefore, the internal water supply in the house starts from the pumping station, or more precisely, from the first shut-off valve, which cuts off the pressure unit from the distribution.

Behind this valve there is a cold water branch and a hot water supply (DHW) line. And in most cases, the hot water supply line is formed on the basis of a branch from a cold pipeline, which goes into a heating device that generates hot water.

Sources of consumption - taps, mixers, dishwashers and washing machines, waste tanks, etc. - are connected to the cold and hot branches using taps embedded in the main hot or cold pipe or collector. IN the latter case the consumer is forced to buy more pipeline fittings. However, using a water collector will protect you from pressure surges in the network. Simply put: you won't get scalded by boiling water in the shower after someone uses the flush tank.

The joints of the bends and the center line are played out using tees. Turns (corner mates) are made using corners. To facilitate the repair process, a shut-off valve is installed into the outlet to the source of consumption. It allows you not to turn off the water in the entire house in case of repair of one tap.

As you can see, a typical water supply installation in a private house is very simple. Any novice mechanic can assemble such a network. And you need to start designing a water supply network by calculating the footage of pipes and the number of connecting and shut-off fittings.

How to calculate pipe footage and number of fittings

If the water supply is based on the main pipe, then water distribution in a private house begins with laying a central line encircling the perimeter of the building. The footage of the pipes in this case is equal to twice the sum of all the houses (two perimeters).

With the collector the situation is more complicated. In this case, a separate line will go to each tap. Therefore, the footage in this case can only be determined from a full-scale diagram, by drawing lines on the walls along which the wiring will be laid. After completing the drawing, measure the length of the lines and record the footage of the cold and hot branches.

If you are building a water supply system with your own hands, the full-scale wiring diagram will not fit in any case. Take blue and red crayons in your hands and draw the trajectory of laying cold and hot pipes on the walls, marking the positions of tees, corners and shut-off valves with arbitrary icons. This drawing will help you not to make a mistake with the length of the pipes and the number of valves, and during installation it can be used as a contour for laying the fixing elements that hold the pipes on the wall.

The number of corner fittings is determined by turns (corner mates). The number of valves is calculated according to the sources of consumption (one per source, plus one more if we are talking about a mixer). Tees are counted only when installing a water supply system based on the central line, determining their number by the number of valves.

After that calculation and subsequent purchase of fittings and fittings, you can do it in any private house literally in a day. We will tell you how this is done further, discussing both the cold and hot branches of the water supply separately.

How to install a cold water line

Installation of cold water supply in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. This unit is placed in the kitchen area if it is located near the toilet and bathroom. Otherwise, the collector is placed closer to the sanitary zone. Moreover, this work is easy to do with your own hands - to do this you need to do the following:

1. 1. We buy a collector, the number of outlets of which is equal to the number of consumption sources.
2. 2. We fix it on the wall using screw clamps with a self-tapping leg or brackets on the distributor body.
3. 3. We lay a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ¾ inches from the central valve of the water supply to the inlet pipe of the manifold, using push-in fittings for mating.
4. 4. Using the same fittings, we arrange bends with a diameter of ½ inch from the collector to the points of consumption, laying pipes in the baseboard area. Moreover, a valve should be installed between the pipe and the collector, closing each outlet.
5. 5. Having reached the outlet under the sink (tank, tray or bathtub), we design vertical section, raising the pipe above the floor by 50 cm.
6. 6. We connect the pipe and the tap (mixer or tank) with a bellows or reinforced hose.

Finally, we install the faucet on the sink and connect the drain to the sewer. And we repeat this operation with all points of consumption. At this point, the installation of the cold branch can be considered complete.

How to install a hot water supply line

The DHW branch is made in almost the same way as the cold water supply. Only instead of a central valve, the starting point for the hot line is the cold branch manifold.

From this distributor we run a ½ inch line to the heater. Moreover, at the connection point you need to embed a check valve so that the water from the boiler or heat exchanger of the column does not drain back. It is described in a separate article.

The next step is to install a hot water collector. It is placed either under the boiler, or in the bathroom or kitchen. Next, a ½-inch diameter pipe is pulled to the wall-mounted distributor, connecting the manifold and the “hot” fitting of the boiler/boiler.

Finally, separate hot water supply lines are connected to each mixer, connecting the taps and the distributor. Moreover, to facilitate connecting the pipeline to the tap, you can use a bellows hose. The reinforced version is not recommended in this case - it is designed for cold water.

If the house has no more than 2-3 sources of hot water consumption, then the collector can be replaced with a pair of tees, laying a central line to the shower or faucet in the bathroom, and arranging an outlet to the kitchen. But in this case, be prepared for pressure surges if you use faucets in the bathroom and kitchen at the same time.

How to save money on plumbing installation

Installing a water supply system in a private home will cost much less if you follow a few tips. First, stop using elbow fittings. A metal-plastic pipe can be bent along a 25-centimeter radius, fitting into any turn.

Secondly, special manifolds with shut-off units at each outlet will help save on valves mounted under each entrance to the faucet or mixer. Third, consider the location of the flow splitter. Ideally, it should be between the kitchen and the bathroom. But if there are more taps in the bathroom, then it is better to move the manifold there. In this case, you will only spend money on one kitchen outlet.

Fourthly, if the distributor and the consuming device are separated by 2-2.5 meters, then instead of pipeline fittings you can use a reinforcing or bellows hose of the appropriate length. Fifthly, when choosing between metal-plastic and polypropylene, vote for the first option. Polypropylene pipes are installed using a special welding machine or expensive electric couplings. Therefore, professionals will have to be involved in such work. In addition, polypropylene does not bend like metal-plastic.

If you listen to these tips, you will be able to save up to 10-15 percent on the cost of consumables.

In order for life in a private home to be comfortable, it is necessary for the sewerage system to function uninterruptedly. Having a sewer system, you can equip a bathroom, toilet, washing machine. To install a water supply system, you also need to take care of the sewer system, through which dirty water will be discharged.

Today, the water supply and sewerage systems are installed in several ways. Our company offers clients an individual approach to choosing a system based on the characteristics of the house itself. We install sewerage from a well or well, depending on the site, for very little money.

Plumbing system diagrams

Most often, water is obtained from a well drilled in the kitchen. This option is perfect for a small family. In this case, an electric pump is installed in the well, with the help of which water is supplied to the tank, and from there the water is already used for its intended purpose in the old, proven way.

But still, it is best to choose another, more practical option. Here you will need a special automatic station, which is connected either to a well or to a well. If it is connected to a well, then it is necessary to install a filter with a water heater in the cottage in order to purify and heat the water.

Installation of water supply

Automatic private water supply stations wooden house They are installed, as a rule, in basements - these are sewers. If there is a bathhouse on the site, then you can drill another well, which is supplied with an electric pump to supply water.

When sewers are installed on open area, it must be insulated. The pipe is also subject to insulation, which is best, especially for regions with cold winters, to be buried. The pipe is buried quite deep, often two meters deep. Both plastic and metal pipes can be installed under the sewer system. If we talk about the pipes that lead to the bathhouse, then they can be heated using a special electric cable.

Now there is no clean water anywhere. Even in wells and from wells, the water has all kinds of impurities and sand. To clean it using a filter, you must first make a special laboratory analysis, and after that the specialist will tell you what type of sewer filter needs to be installed. If you approach this issue responsibly, you can end up with very clean and safe water for use.

Arrangement of wiring from a well

Installing a sewer system from a well is very simple, without spending a lot of money. There are two conditions for wiring. Firstly, the well must have the correct structure: masonry, frame or concrete rings. And secondly, sewers must be insulated. In order to maintain the required water pressure, you need to correctly select and install a fairly powerful pump. You can also install an automatic pumping station. It is better to install pipes for this type of wiring from metal-plastic, which are rust-resistant, elastic and easy to install.

In our company you can easily purchase everything necessary equipment so that sewerage wiring and plumbing system. Our specialists will help you select it, and will also make a wiring design, carry out all the necessary measurements, and calculate the costs. We will also install a water supply system in a short time, and will certainly provide guarantees for operation.

Sewerage in a wooden house

In his own home life is good, there are no neighbors who stomp from above, you are not afraid of flooding the neighbors below. And if the building is outside the city, then there is no constant traffic noise outside the window, and it is much easier to breathe outside the city, far from a large amount of exhaust gases. Only for a more comfortable stay is it necessary to ensure that the wooden house has water and a toilet. It is only necessary to purify waste water.

Sewerage is installed in wooden houses in several ways. Everyone chooses the option that they can financially support. Its type depends on the area of ​​the wooden house.

Installing a sewer system in a house is more or less simple; the main thing is installation and design. But the sewer will still force some trouble. It is not only the drainage system itself that needs to be well designed Wastewater so that residents do not feel uncomfortable, but also take care that contaminated water does not get into groundwater.

If city communications pass near the house, then the best option will separate her, brought to her. But more often, owners themselves need to take care of creating an entire sewer system with a waste water treatment station.

As a rule, wood sewerage is installed in several ways.

1. The simplest way to solve this issue is cesspool. This method is one of the most convenient, but if we talk about a house in which few people permanently live, because... The volume of the pit is designed for no more than 1 cubic meter. water per day. Although, it must be said that technology does not stand still and today it is possible to equip a cesspool more large volume and even with a special filtration system. The disadvantage of pits is that they constantly need to be emptied by calling a team of sewer trucks with special equipment. Such cleaning is quite expensive, and it will have to be done quite often.
2. Using a single-chamber septic tank, which has the form of a plastic or metal container where waste water accumulates. In this container, the water is purified and then safely discharged through pipes. This method will not cause violations of sanitary and hygienic standards. But this option also has a drawback - it involves periodically pumping out accumulated sludge from the bottom of the container.
3. Using a two-chamber septic tank. This option is one of the newest, which makes it possible to fully automate the sewer system. A two-chamber septic tank has the following structure: two tanks connected to each other in which water is purified. In the first tank, water settles and a solid mass accumulates, which is then cleaned using chemical and biological methods. This almost purified water enters the second reservoir and when released into the soil, it is already completely clean and harmless to the environment.

Organization of the sewer system of a wooden house

The very first stage of sewerage installation is the calculation of water consumption, which depends on the number of residents and equipment (toilet, kitchen sink, shower or bathtub, washing and Dishwasher). It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the waste water settles for approximately three days, after which it enters another tank. If up to 150 liters of water are needed per person per day, then a family of four will require a septic tank with a capacity of 1.8 cubic meters.

The sewage system consists of external and internal sections. The outer section consists of pipes and a septic tank, and the inner section consists of plumbing equipment, a riser and a sewerage system. It would be better if the home sewage system is equipped with pipes made of modern materials.

Home sewerage installation

First of all, you need to take care of the place where the septic tank will be located. If it is a sealed tank, then sewerage in a wooden building can be easily installed. If a cesspool is used for waste water, then it must be arranged no closer than five meters from the house and twenty meters from the well or well.

Pipes that approach the septic tank are installed with a slope of 2-4 cm per meter. They do this so that there is no stagnation in the pipes. The trench should be 60-120 cm deep (the depth depends on the climatic characteristics of the region). Pipes must be insulated. The seams are sealed.

For sewerage, risers are first installed, to which plumbing equipment is connected. The top of the riser is installed above the roof to provide draft (to avoid unpleasant odors).

For toilets, pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used. An important point for residents: you cannot throw paper into the toilet, because... The cleaning system cannot process cellulose!

Proper arrangement of the water supply and sewerage system will provide residents with wooden houses comfortable life.