Typical mistakes when building a private house. Standard mistakes when building houses from aerated concrete blocks The most common mistakes when building a private house

This article will talk about typical mistakes allowed under construction of brick walls.

It is no secret that the quality of other country houses, to put it mildly, leaves much to be desired. Through negligence or ignorance, builders make unacceptable mistakes, which sometimes lead to disastrous consequences. Moreover, the denial of norms and rules is becoming almost unsystematic.

In such conditions, customers have a hard time. To any question they receive a “comprehensive” answer something like this: “We have always done it this way, and no one has complained.” It is difficult for a person whose occupation is far from construction to defend his point of view, find convincing arguments and convict hacks of poor quality work. As a result, the house is built, but it is uncomfortable or completely unsafe to live in. Money wasted, materials wasted, and time wasted.

You can, of course, give advice from the very beginning to keep an eye on the builders, constantly monitor the progress of work, and invite independent experts to resolve controversial situations. But not all customers have the opportunity to regularly visit their country property. In addition, many errors can only be detected by a specialist. The best option— organize independent technical supervision of the construction process. This type of service is offered by specialized companies with the appropriate license.

In recent years low quality brickwork has become a mass phenomenon. The use of substandard solution, non-compliance with technological standards and other gross violations lead to catastrophic consequences. The walls are literally bursting at the seams, the cladding is peeling off, and there is a threat to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. In such cases, there is only one way out: partial (in combination with repairs and strengthening) or complete demolition of the defective structure. Meanwhile, even safe but crooked masonry can create many problems. Curved surfaces are very difficult to finish - applying plaster, facing with stone, etc.

Errors in design and construction often lead to external walls getting wet and freezing. The result is high heat loss, dampness, mold and slow but sure destruction of the brick. There can be no talk of any comfortable and serene living in such a house. And correcting such, so to speak, shortcomings requires enormous financial, labor and time costs. I'm not even talking about the moral damage caused to the owners.

Laying according to the “slip-and-drop” principle. The brickwork was made in violation of technological standards. The bricks are laid at random. The seams are uneven, in some places their thickness reaches 30 mm, while the norm is no more than 15 mm. At the same time, the vertical seams were completely left without mortar. What kind of energy saving can we talk about if there are gaping cracks in the wall!
Obliquely. And here the builders, without further ado, laid out the wall along an inclined line. The quality of work does not stand up to criticism. But the unfortunate masons did not have to ledge the wall under the inclined rafters pitched roof. But this created an emergency situation: the inclined section could fall out at any moment
Wall "shrapnel". This wall is a victim of unscrupulous manufacturers. This is what happens to bricks that contain too much lime. In wet weather, the lime was “shot off”. The process is extended over time and it is not known when it will end. You can stop the “shooting” by finishing it. But do not forget that plastering is a “wet” process.
The wall is covered in frost. Freezing of the walls of this respectable mansion occurred for two reasons: due to insufficient thickness and incorrect combination of hollow and facing bricks. If the problem is not corrected soon, the house will face big troubles: destruction of the cladding, dampness, mold, discomfort, heat loss
Insidious condensation. This is what happens as a result of improper construction of a three-layer wall. The builders forgot to leave a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation. And besides, we saved on thermal insulation. Condensation had accumulated on the inside of the facing brick and leaked out. In winter, the walls will freeze, which will lead to the destruction of the brick.
Crooked paths. Uneven seams on the brick cladding spoil the entire appearance of the facade. Of course, this will not cause the walls to fall apart. However, it is easy to understand the disappointment of the owners, who spent a lot of money on expensive home decoration and received a very mediocre result. In Soviet times, experienced builders called such seams between bricks “advance pay”
Natural "ventilation". And here the builders went ahead and filled the gap between the window and the ceiling with hollow bricks. Everything would have been fine, but they placed the brick on a spoon - they saved on the material (they saved two whole bricks). And at the same time they provided the room with constant ventilation. Even if the holes are then sealed with mortar, this section of the wall will freeze (the thickness is only 65 mm)
"Infernal Portal". Above this doorway It’s time to write: “Abandon hope, all who enter here.” Trying to “correct” the structure, the builders actually deprived the reinforced concrete lintel of its support point. Those measly 5 cm walls (the norm is 15-25 cm), on which the element now rests on one side, will soon collapse, unable to withstand the pressure of reinforced concrete
Well, who builds something like that?! Water won't have to look for a hole in this basement wall. The brickwork is replete with holes. Moreover, the builders not only violated the current norm (it is prohibited to use hollow-core bricks when constructing a basement). but they also went against common sense. They laid the bricks as if they deliberately wanted to show off the voids
Escaping beauty. Another example of the misuse of hollow core bricks. When decorating the platbands, we used products that were not intended for cladding facades. In addition, the voids “look out” onto the street. The polyurethane foam itself needs protection from rain, snow and sun. But the builders didn’t bother to fill the bricks with mortar
All wrong. This steel lintel was installed incorrectly from the very beginning. Main mistake- insufficient support width. Support units should include concrete pads that would ensure uniform load distribution and prevent local destruction of the brick. In addition, steel lintels need insulation (with the same brick)
Zigzag of failure. Such serious cracks in brick cladding occur for various reasons. Most likely, the deformations are caused by movements of the foundation, built without taking into account the hydrogeology of the site. It is also possible that during the construction of double-layer walls, the correct relationship between the foam concrete base and the brick cladding was not ensured

I found very interesting material on a Ukrainian construction site called “Stroypomosch”. The guys put together advice from people who had already built houses for themselves and lived in them for some time, long enough for all the problems to come out and begin to interfere with the owners’ lives.

It seems that some advice concerns unimportant details. Believe me, this is an illusion. Little things are the very fabric of life, what we sometimes fight until we bleed.

These tips, of course, are just a set of private opinions, but reading them and thinking about them will be very useful. I completely agree with most of them and have written on these topics myself more than once.

How to build a house: choice land plot

By distance

1. I wouldn’t buy a plot to build a house 50 km from the city - it’s still far away... It’s better to look, even if it’s small, but closer.

By relief

2. I would not buy a plot with a drop, on a hillside. You spend a lot of money on retaining walls and other nonsense. The layout of the site turns into complete darkness.

3. I would not build on a slope. It’s too late, of course - I bought a plot of land and got into construction. But, if I had known how much design solutions for the foundation would cost me... I would probably have refused in favor of a flat area.

4. I would find out the groundwater level before purchasing a plot to build a house.

According to the availability of communications

5. When buying a plot of land, I would never listen to a realtor again about how electricity and gas are 10 meters away.

6. It is advisable to buy a plot for building a house with communications available on it - it cost me a very decent amount to install electricity and gas.

7. Gasification “...next year...” turned into gasification in 10 years.

8. I would not choose a site for development “just in the field” - electricity, gas, water, security - all this is what I had to do myself and for my own money. There is still road cleaning ahead in winter, garbage removal, and troubleshooting. I come to the conclusion that a plot of land in a cottage community eliminates most of the problems voiced.

9. I would check ALL the documents for the house: it turned out that there is no contract for electricity supply, and I spent 2 years running around with the registration because of the permitted 3.5 kW.

10. In addition to electricity and gas, before purchasing, I would clarify at what depth the water lies. It turned out that the well needs to be drilled to a minimum of 95 m = 8 thousand.e.

11. Ensure that access routes are adequate for mixers, long haulers and the like.

By neighbors

12. I would never build next to friends or relatives again.

13. Before buying a house in the village, I would go to the village council and talk to the district police officer, and this, in addition to going around all the neighbors for a block.

14. Problems with neighbors can be attributed to any place. Dacha, cottage town, apartment, village. There are plenty of inadequate people everywhere. There is no guarantee that your neighbor in a cottage town will not give you a “fun” life. When I read advice on choosing an apartment and more, I was somehow surprised by the point “get to know your neighbors, ask the residents for their opinions about those living near your potential apartment.” I always thought: what nonsense, but now I think that I need to start choosing an apartment, etc. from getting to know your neighbors.

15. I would not postpone the fixed breakdown of the boundaries of the land plot...for each see war and nerves.

Miscellaneous

16. If you wouldn’t take a plot to build a house with an unfinished foundation, there would be additional costs for strengthening/strengthening/implementing it; in addition, this would significantly limit the choice of design for the house.

17. I would never buy a plot in winter or early spring. Only when the snow melts will it be clear what he was hiding.

18. I wouldn’t buy a house without talking with the neighbors about local peculiarities: when we bought it, it turned out that there were a lot of snakes and you walked around the site like it was a minefield.

How to build a house: Before construction begins

Making a decision to build

19. I would never rebuild an old, Soviet-built house, but would order a bulldozer and build a new one - faster and cheaper. Or, as an option, I would sell the old one and buy a bare plot for that money!

20. Don’t build a solid, beautiful “palace” among the slums; you won’t be able to sell it later, and admiring the surrounding poverty from the second floor is no good.

21. Expect that you will only live in this house yourself, and your children and especially grandchildren do not need it - they have their own lives.

22. I would not buy a house that was being built for sale. One of the signs of a house for sale:

With the help of a simple calculation of the number of sockets in the house, you can cleverly calculate the “house for sale”: there is 1 socket in each room, and this is after finishing;
- That's for sure! Since it’s an expensive pleasure to install a lot of sockets (you can’t install cheap ones for yourself - it’s a big risk), and in a house for sale, why increase the cost of construction!?

By preliminary education

23. I’m not a builder myself, but I read a lot, including the forum, I immediately see the mistakes of builders and the moments when I get scammed.

24. I would study the equipment for each type of work.

25. I won’t start construction without working through other people’s mistakes.

By financing

26. One of the most important pieces of advice is - don’t start a long-term construction project - if you don’t have money, then build an economical frame structure of 80 meters for a family of 4 people, and not a brick palace of 240 square meters - you need to live, not build! Save money - build yourself a palace!

27. I wouldn’t start construction without having 200-250% of the initial estimate in my pocket...

28. On the topic - I would give advice to everyone who is planning to build - however, it has been said a hundred times already - adequately assess the cost of finishing and engineering at the foundation stage. Because the frame, foundation, roof are baby talk compared to the budget for finishing and engineering.

According to site planning

29. I would not start anything before planning the terrain with a grader and thinking through water disposal/drainage, retaining walls and the like.

30. I would allocate several places for construction waste, and would carefully ensure that no infection would throw garbage anywhere. Now, when preparing the lawn, I periodically pick out broken bricks and cuttings from the most unexpected places. plastic pipes etc.

31. I would prepare one or two places for crushed stone and, perhaps, make sides and a bottom so that the crushed stone does not crumble and go into the ground.

32. Before starting any work, we would fence off all the trees that are valuable to us on the site!

How to build a house: Interaction with contractors

By search

33. I would not hire workers without seeing their work or without having recommendations from people I know.

34. How to find good builders? If you see a nice house that you like, ask the owners who built it. They won't recommend bad ones!

35. I chose a team at neighboring houses, it was immediately clear what they were doing and how. During downtime, they go to a neighboring construction site and vice versa. And I didn’t buy a change house - that’s also saving money.

36. I would not hire a team that can “do everything.”

37. Ordering a large volume of turnkey work is stupid, expensive and nerve-wracking. Only in small volumes - turnkey box, turnkey roof, turnkey plaster, turnkey electrical, etc. Then the percentage of theft is minimized, done and received.

38. Any construction work I will break it down into unrelated stages. To make it easier to change “bad” builders.

39. I would not hire roofers who do not know how or do not want to install a gutter system.

By organizing relationships

40. What we don’t do now is that we don’t order doors, windows, or any work without signing a contract indicating deadlines and penalties. And after the work is completed, we sign certificates of completion indicating the warranty period. For the most part, companies that are not used to working this way, if they do not have their own model, agree to ours.

41. I would be more persistent in contracts with contractors - deadlines, amount upon completion, penalty for delay. Otherwise, it turns out that the tails of each are left, and the next one is to remake them.

42. You should try to specify all the services for the work in advance - otherwise later it will come up “but this column is not taken into account, and this is not taken into account” and cheap work is only at the initial stages, and the rest will be at the maximum.

43. Would oblige builders to adhere to pre-agreed and fixed estimates.

44. When getting to know a specific contractor, I will check the photocopy of his passport with the original (a copy for myself, I return the passport to the owner).

45. The main thing is not the contract, but the terms of payment:
The contract that the performers offer is up to f..y. Because the time spent on the courts and, possibly, the compensation obtained from this is unlikely to cover at least a third of the efforts spent in financial equivalent. And for... I have half the work, if I then searched for new performers for a month, re-purchased materials, and paid more to persuade them to finish it?!?!?!

But then with those whom I persuaded and agreed to any of their conditions under a guarantee of fulfillment and quality, the conditions with them were different: I pay 100% without bargaining on my part - i.e. no matter how many they call, but I only accept and pay for completed work. In the end, all participants (me and the performer were happy), which is what I wish for everyone.

By trust

46. ​​I wouldn’t trust anyone - all the engineers, the architect, the craftsmen, the workers left a lot of their “traces”, some they remade, and some you’ll have to live with further.

47. You must immediately crush, in the very bud, within yourself, such a feeling as pity. (How can I drive them out, they are so hungry and unhappy... well, they messed up here, they messed up there, I’ll talk to them, I’ll explain, they’ll correct themselves).

48. I would build construction 2-3 months faster if I immediately parted with foremen, builders or suppliers who do not arrive at the appointed time and/or do not deliver materials on time. At the same time, the phone does not answer - the phone was “forgotten” at home, the money “ran out”, the mother-in-law in America “fell ill” - I went to deliver medicine, there is a traffic jam from Zhitomir to Bortnichi, etc.

49. I will not trust builders without checking the facts.

Quality control

50. I wouldn’t spare the money for a good laser level at the very beginning of construction. Before construction began, I, gritting my teeth, bought such a laser device, and then I never regretted it. And the main thing is not that in the presence of a laser machine, the workers whispered “yes, you can’t do this...”, but that everything turned out smoothly. There is only one drawback to it: you need to shoot on the street late in the evening; the beam is not visible during the day. Now my friends borrow laser equipment from me, and they are also very happy.

51. I would check at all stages the diagonals of the rooms, the evenness and verticality of the walls.

52. I would never start building a house without involving a technical supervision service (if you don’t mind a couple of percent of the total estimate). They save 15-20 percent, plus you get a house that serves you well. And don’t rack your brains over how to avoid mistakes.

53. Well, naturally, you need to look for mistakes more meticulously.

54. I wouldn’t pay the full amount for installing a gutter system until it rains at least once, even if it’s six months later.

55. I will never again accept work in a hurry, with comments from “guides” in the person of builders. Otherwise, your teeth will start talking, shifting attention to minor details, and as a result, you may miss important mistakes. In any case, you first need to carefully inspect everything without builders and foremen, write down all suspicious points, and only then talk to the builders - then let them show and tell.

56. From the very first day of construction, I would keep a detailed photo archive. Afterwards, at any time you can see where the pipes were laid in the floors, and the wires in the walls, and if workers have a photo of their marriage, they can download the rights.

57. Personally attend the unloading of mixers into the foundation and ceiling (when they poured the base for me, they invited me to look at the film, expanded clay, reinforcement, and at the next section (without the customer) they poured the mixer onto the sand!

58. I would not accept cement without selectively weighing at least 3-5 bags.

59. I wouldn’t throw away construction supermarket receipts right away. In general, I would put all the checks in one box until required (and so as not to fade, I would immediately make a photocopy of them).

Cost control

60. Always make an estimate.

61. While going through the checks provided by the foreman, I remembered that somewhere there are those that are not mine, from another counter, fake, corrected, attributed...

62. Purchase materials only yourself.

Upon payment

63. I would record all prices for work in writing.

64. I would always discuss the cost of work before starting. As soon as you fall for the phrase “in fact”, the bill will grow by another thousand.

65. No full payments, max. 30-40% of the cost of work (materials a priori only yourself). Full payment after completing the stage. I was “lucky” - I only got $7500. (advance payment for materials and labor). Friends were cheated out of $45,000.

66. I will never give money even for half the work done to strangers. Because for me, as a customer, in the event of a conflict, unfinished work is worse than work not started at all. In this case, I won’t hesitate to underpay “a little”...

67. I would never fall for persuasion, like “we’ll come in two days and finish it (redo it).” Figurines! Then the builders have a lot of excuses and they have no time for you. I would leave some of the money and give it back AFTER all the problems have been eliminated.

68. I will not give money to builders without formalizing it with a receipt. Because then you yourself cannot remember exactly how much you gave and when.

In order on the site

69. Clean up the construction site in a timely manner, avoid dumping waste and littering the area.

70. I will not allow concrete to be mixed in 100 places on the site, after which for 3 years these monolithic fillings, half a meter deep, will be picked out, because nothing will grow there. I will not allow garbage to be burned in 100 places on the site. We have to completely change the layer of soil, because everything is saturated with chemical burnt rubbish.

71. I would force every team to clean up after themselves. I wouldn't pay the workers until they cleaned up after themselves.

72. Don’t forget to make at least a temporary toilet for the builders.

74. Do not allow construction workers to drink, warning about real fines even on the shore.

75. Now I would do this: I would make several large boxes from unnecessary wooden pallets, where all the garbage would be dumped. Then the area would remain clean and taking out the garbage would be a piece of cake.

76. Never forget about safety precautions.

Working with relatives and friends

77. I wouldn’t hire relatives for construction. Then it turns out there is no demand and a lot of nerves and it’s done poorly.

78. I will never hire a good friend as a contractor again. You know, fuck... there is no one to send sometimes.

79. I disagree. For me, it’s completely the opposite - builders I know are building. Prices are average in Kiev (some are higher, some are lower). But I’m completely satisfied because:

a) they do not ask for advance payment;
b) give practical advice on what you can save on;
c) materials are not stolen.

How to build a house: Design

80. I wouldn’t start construction without a complete project.

81. Still, the basis is a competent project. Full project, with everyone engineering communications, their entries into the house, niches under them (for panels, collectors), penetrations under walls, between floors, etc. But you realize this too late. Having had a good general construction project during the construction of the first house (with structural design, detailed drawings of components, a complete roof design, etc.), I would still not begin with the second construction without a project with worked out sections of electrical, HVAC, stairs, floor levels with taking into account underfloor heating and cable layout.

82. I wouldn’t start pouring the foundation without a plumbing project (I only ordered the structural parts), I thought I would order an engineer directly from the contractors. Where to put the sleeves? At what altitude? What diameter? As a result, they laid it as best they could, but I think it would be impossible to do without a hammer drill when laying a sewer system.

83. When designing, I would arrange furniture, etc. in more detail. The kitchen turned out to be not large enough to put a table and make an island in the middle, but everything could be done by stretching the house by 1 m (in total). I was going to set up billiards, and the walls in the room are narrow. In short, I would not save on design - in comparison with all other costs, these are pennies.

84. Double-check. If you are not strong in drawings and construction, find another reputable but disinterested designer to look at your project. In our case, the foundation contained exactly 4 times more reinforcement than was necessary. And many, many more surprises.

How to build a house: Architectural solutions

85. The simpler the layout of the house, the easier and cheaper it is to build and the fewer mistakes there will be.

86. The first floor would plan flowing open spaces of the hall-kitchen-dining-living room. A completely unique feeling of spaciousness.

87. I wouldn’t build a full second floor with a concrete floor, I would build an attic.

By house area

88. When deciding how to build a house, I would design the area to be 180-225 sq.m.

89. I would calculate the size of rooms and houses for myself only based on real life your family. That is, if a family of 4 lives in 2-3 room apartment 50-70 sq.m., but this is not enough, then a house of 120-150 sq.m. - more than enough. And when 240 sq.m., then it’s a little too much and instead of the owner of the house you become his servant.

Orientation by cardinal directions

90. Rooms in which 80% of the time is spent should not be located on the sunny side.

91. The northern and eastern sides are the most comfortable in summer. They almost didn’t go into the southern and southwestern rooms, it was hot there.

92. Most of the windows are not to the south, but to the west and east. 4 fairly hot summers, and no air conditioning was needed.
Ceiling height

93. I would make the ceilings clean on the 1st floor above - not 2.90, but at least 3.20. And in the base, which I really like, it’s not 2.55, but 2.80.

94. In no case did I repeat the mistake of low ceilings of 2.70 m - 3 m at least.

Entry group

95. I would definitely take into account right away that entrance vestibules (halls of any size that suits you personally) are needed for all doors leaving the house.

96. And one more thing - the hallway (vestibule) should be heated and large. Friends have a “cold” one - it is used only in the summer; in winter everyone undresses in the house. Also, there should be enough space for a stroller/bag, etc.

97. The main entrance would be “recessed” into a box, on a common foundation. The porch is always dry at any time of the year; snow applied in winter quickly melts from the warmth of the foundation. No need for heating.

98. Several entrance doors. The rough entrance is ideally to the boiler room, to the utility room, so as not to carry dirty or bulky loads, tools through the main entrance and hallway. As an option, enter through the garage (if it is included in the project).

99. I would also definitely make an exit to the terrace from the living room or kitchen.

Ground floor

100. I would not build a full basement, but would make a slab foundation with a partially built basement.

101. About ground floor, billiard room, library, cinema hall, it is better not to place it there. Well, you can’t sit in the basement for 2 hours, it puts pressure on your brain and it’s hard to breathe there, because... The walls are concrete and no amount of ventilation will help. For technical premises, I agree, a boiler room, a storage room, a laundry room are not bad, but as practice shows, all my friends suffer with basements - something is always leaking somewhere... And again, it’s a question of finances - a basement is not extra space for little money, but This is an inferior area for your full money.

103. I would make a small cellar in the monolithic base, in the boiler room.

104. In the next basement I will definitely make a pit into which the pump can be lowered and water pumped out.

Ladder

105. Plan a normal staircase, if you don’t know how, then leave about 6 square meters under it, then it’s easier to add an extra locker/storage room than to go down “backward” all your life.

Kitchen

106. I would make a kitchen of 25 square meters. m.

107. Be sure to make a pantry of 3-4 m2 in the kitchen. And in the pantry itself there are shelves, shelves, and the more, the better. Then you can make the furniture in the kitchen more designer and not worry that something won’t fit. Canned food, vegetables, household chemicals, a bucket with a mop, a food processor, a steamer and other mobile equipment are stored there - it seems like they’re just a stone’s throw away, and nothing clutters up the kitchen. Only what you need almost every day is at hand.

Bathrooms

108. A bathroom is required on each floor. After a night fall on the right stairs, I recommend my sober wife to everyone.

109. A shower in the master bedroom is a strong recommendation.

110. I would provide a full bathroom with a bath or shower on the ground floor, large enough.

Wardrobe

111. I would have thought about the need for a dressing room at the stage of choosing a project. I just DIDN’T THINK, now I have to sculpt where it will fit...

112. If the house is not one-story, then the dressing room is on the first floor, or AND on the first. It really gets boring to go to the second floor every time to change clothes.

113. It was in vain to make a small dressing room so that there would be more space in the room. These half a meter to a meter won’t save the room, and when the dressing room is packed, you won’t be able to build another one.

114. I would make a large dressing room right next to the entrance, rather than a wardrobe or just furniture; there really isn’t enough of it at the entrance in winter. Women will understand when it’s better to wear another fur coat under these boots, but she’s in the dressing room - not by the door... You have to run after her.

115. That is, dressing room: Do. On the first floor. Near the entrance. Big enough.

Living room on the 1st floor

116. Plan at least one small bedroom on the first floor.

117. I would definitely plan a small living room or office on the ground floor. Oh, how necessary! At least 10 meters!

118. I swear to myself that I didn’t make an extra room except the hall and kitchen on the first floor. There are a lot of rooms on the second floor, but the whole family is too lazy to go up and down. Everyone undresses downstairs, and we like to iron things while watching TV downstairs, so it’s a constant mess. I decided to convert the garage into a room. In general, a garage inside the house is a waste of space.

Utility rooms

119. Think about where to store the assembled mop, broom and vacuum cleaner.

120. Be sure to provide several (3-4) small storage rooms in the house. Now there are 2, not counting the garage)), really not enough.

121. I would immediately make a separate room for a laundry/drying room.

122. I will definitely repeat the solution with the laundry - there is a hole in the wall according to the fireplace-chimney principle, and so from each floor (bathroom or dressing room) the laundry is thrown directly into the laundry room. No need to carry anything. It's called the Linen Mine. They make a shaft from metal or plastic pipes, the main thing is that there are no screws inside.

123. Technical washbasin in the technical room, closer to the rough entrance. A very relevant topic for a private home.

How to build a house: Design ideas

124. Since we are talking about designers, I would never order room design again. In fact, they didn’t do everything as it was drawn)). And when they assembled the ceiling, it was very pressing, so part of it had to be dismantled. And in the picture everything suited us. It’s just that later, when you see wallpaper, stones, linoleum, colors and shapes of sofas, lamps, you begin to understand that you need to choose from what’s available, and not look for something like the one in the picture. Or you become attached to a certain color of wallpaper. And you start dancing from it, and not from the design idea.

125. I would not hire interior designers (expensive and often pointless).

126. No suspended ceilings with 10 thousand light bulbs.

127. It is better to make a bathroom in warm colors. This is the first time I’ve lived in one like this now—it seems like the temperature inside is 5-6 degrees higher.

128. In the rooms: each room needs a built-in wardrobe, despite the shared wardrobe in the hallway and the dressing room in the master bedroom.

129. I would not make decorative niches in plasterboard walls. All kinds of rubbish and dust collect on them (not just mine), they constantly need to be cleaned.

How to build a house: Foundation

130. Do not forget to lay and properly seal asbestos-cement pipes (sleeves) for water inlet and sewer outlet when pouring a strip foundation. Punch later concrete tape foundation (40-40 cm long and 11 cm in diameter for the sewer), with high-quality concrete, using a hammer drill is almost impossible - you need a mega tool, a giant drill and superhuman perseverance. Place several strong plastic bags on the pipe sections so that the sleeves do not become concrete, stuff rags tightly inside, secure it all properly so that it does not move during pouring and accurately mark the exits, not with a pencil on a piece of paper, which in a year will not be found 100%, but make deep cuts on concrete or somewhere else. And fix the depth too. I almost went crazy while I was looking for these cartridges, I only found them with the help of a crowbar - the ends were cemented and could not be seen, and there was no specific sound from tapping either.

131. I wouldn’t do a block foundation, a monolith would be better.

How to build a house: Walls

132. I wouldn’t skimp on facing bricks.

133. I wouldn’t buy facing bricks in advance - they sat in pallets for the winter and now half of the bricks have to be washed (it’s not always possible).

134. I would control the masonry, plaster is expensive.

135. To everyone who is going to build a log house from winter forest advice - don’t delay until the end of winter, otherwise it will turn out like my house was built - from winter forest, spring and summer. Ideally, sign an agreement at the end of autumn, so that they begin to slowly cut in December and finish by spring.

How to build a house: Floors

136. When ordering concrete, be sure to warn the supplier that a concrete sample will be submitted for testing. It's a bit of a discipline.

137. I would level the surface of the slab being poured “in a mirror” - then there would be less hassle.

138. I wouldn’t use a wooden floor - the ceiling is wobbly, feet are stomping on the head, the paint is flying off. Better slabs or monolith.

139. In the ceiling, provide for the discharge of plastic pipes from the electrical box (or control unit of the house) into the basement and into the attic of the house. Cables will be laid here when needed and nothing will need to be tapped or cut.

How to build a house: Roofing

140. I would not make a complex roof - only a simple large gable roof, which would be the main roof, and a canopy over the terrace and balconies, and a canopy over the car. Complex means less reliable due to more articulation of planes. And complicated = expensive.

141. I would orient the part of the roof with a larger area to the cardinal points - to the south, the angle of the roof is as sharp as possible, the area is not less than the total area of ​​​​the premises (sooner or later you will want solar electricity).

142. I would not let the workers prepare the roof for the roof, but would give this work to roofers. I had to redo it.

143. I would do the roof windows right away along with the roof, and not gradually. I would also do the entire roof pie at once.

144. Install the drainage system immediately after installing the roof.

145. I would never again hear that 100 mm of mineral wool is enough to insulate a roof. Life shows that you need 200, or maybe 300 mm. I will never skimp on roof insulation. I have a thermo house with a second attic floor. Bituminous shingles. When it’s 30-35 outside and the sun is sunny all day, it’s a little hot on the attic floor (26-28).

146. I wouldn’t leave the roof lining for later. Because in winter the insulation blew out! Now, to hem, you need scaffolding, because... house 2 full floors. I planned to file it after facade works, but the facade is delayed for another year.

147. I wouldn’t do the roof lining with plastic for interior work(I would take special vinyl siding for roofing or corrugated sheeting).

148. Do not make roof overhangs less than 400-500mm.

149. As before, I would make the roof overhang about 1 m. No heat in summer, and in winter the sun is always in the windows.

150. If anyone, ever, anywhere tells you that a roof with an angle of 26 or even 18 degrees does not need or is not required to have snow cutters, DO NOT BELIEVE IT!!!

151. I would never build an extension in the place where the snow melts off the roof. This year the entire polycarbonate ceiling was destroyed. Snow fell from a height of 3 meters. I also didn’t install the satellite antenna - falling snow bent the dish itself, knocked out the settings, and broke one head with ice.

152. I persuade all “two-story/attic” customers to make a hatch in the roof near the pipe in advance, the roof/chimney will need to be serviced.

153. I wouldn’t make a roof from polymer-sand tiles: they really crumble after 5-6 years.

How to build a house: Facades

154. The outside walls of the house are plastered with lambskin and painted with light paint. The bark beetle, especially the horizontal one, accumulates a lot of dirt in its cavities, I’ve seen it myself. I don’t have such problems... Light paint does not heat up the house and causes less fading.

155. What would I do: there are very few hooks, shelves, fasteners, stands, etc. on the facade of the house. under flowerpots with flowers. Now we are walking in circles and don’t know where to hang/put the flowerpots. I really like hanging flowerpots. It was necessary to immediately make mortgages for decorative hooks and plan how to build a house.

156. Do not make the blind area shorter in the vertical direction of the roof overhangs.

How to build a house: Balconies

157. Don’t make open balconies, I have a lot of other people’s examples of how it is not needed, how it leaks and how difficult it is to maintain/repair or redo it later.

158. A balcony makes sense only in the case of very small areas and if there is a good view (of boats, for example). Otherwise, it is absolutely not needed - in the summer it is still drawn to the green earth, in the winter it is just to clear the snow.

159. There is no need for a balcony in the house. Even with in good shape We only go out to see him to shake our underwear))).

160. Do not make balconies, at a minimum, without understanding how you will waterproof them and create a temperature gap with the house.

161. When a balcony is formed from a room below, this is one thing, but making it specially external is wasteful in 90% of cases.

162. The balcony turned out to be completely useless, even harmful. Why, when you can go straight out into the garden? It’s better to make a good gazebo or terrace and a bench on the ground.

How to build a house: Stairs

163. Before accepting the project from the architect, I would ask whether he has allocated enough space for the staircase so that it is convenient for use, including carrying furniture (with an angle of 30 to 40 degrees, with a height ratio of 15 / width 30, two-flight...).

164. I will never build a house with an internal staircase without a door at least at one of its ends. So that all the warmth and aromas from the lower floors do not go to the upper ones.

165. If I were suddenly building a house with several floors again, I would again make a comfortable wide staircase. For what? So as not to hate her.

166. I would definitely do the staircase lighting again by turning it on via a motion sensor - much more convenient, as it turned out, than a pass-through switch. The main thing is that the view allows, and this - we return to the issue of a comfortable and wide staircase.

167. I would make the staircase again on a metal frame with oak paneling - it won’t move or creak anywhere.

When building a private house, most developers often make the same mistakes. In this article, we have collected 9 of the most common mistakes during construction, by avoiding which you can build a cottage without unnecessary problems.

Start of construction without a competent design

Many developers prefer to skip this stage and immediately begin construction without a quality project. But construction begins not with laying the first brick, but with transferring the idea to paper. Only a high-quality project will make it possible to calculate an estimate as close to reality as possible, terms, and the number of specialists involved.

Selection of low-quality building materials

The second typical mistake that customers make is choosing low-quality building materials. More precisely, even like that. Take good cement, but use dirty sand. Buy insulation from a trusted company, but save on glue for it. This ultimately leads to double spending. And it’s good if the shortcomings have to be eliminated when creating the house, and not during its operation.

Advice

To avoid spending more money at the stage of purchasing building materials, you need to complete the project estimate in advance. A competent specialist calculates everything down to the number of nails. And this will allow you to save money without compromising quality.

A competent builder will not make mistakes and will ensure that materials arrive gradually. This

  1. Will not force the construction site to stand idle without work.
  2. Will not allow the weather to degrade the quality of materials.
  3. It will make it possible to carry out all the work in stages.

Wrong timing to start construction

The fourth common mistake is to start building a private house in the spring or even summer. In the warm season, concrete for the foundation will dry much faster. But this does not mean that it will be of better quality. It’s worth making it clear: you can’t rush when building a house!

Advice

You cannot build a house over a foundation that is not yet “settled.” The concrete solution fills all the voids and is poured into the allotted space. This takes time. The optimal time for the foundation to be ready is 1-2 months.

The larger the cottage, the stronger the foundation. One of the most common mistakes you should not make is to start building walls over a foundation that was poured less than a month ago. Experienced builders say that the foundation should be poured in the warm autumn. Natural drying of the concrete will provide the strongest possible foundation for your future home.

Construction without the use of reinforcement

Increasing the strength of a building material is only possible by using reinforcement. The house takes years to build. Precipitation, wind and use reduce its wear resistance. And only reinforcement can slow down this process.

Advice

You can reinforce a building that is already in use. But this is difficult and degrades the appearance of the house. You should not make a common mistake of illiterate builders. The best option is to perform reinforcement during construction.

Needs reinforcement

  1. Foundation. Reinforcement can be transverse or longitudinal.
  2. Walls. The reinforcement will allow you to additionally fasten walls made of any material.
  3. Floors. The beams will increase their wear resistance and allow them to withstand additional loads if reinforcement is provided during their installation.

The reinforcement process will not take much time and will not increase the cost of the project too much.

Construction without wall insulation

The house needs to be insulated. This is an unbreakable dogma. It is a mistake to rely on a heating system or mild winters. The best option is to insulate the walls outside the house. Installation of the heat modernization system can begin immediately after the walls are erected.

If you plan to finish the exterior of the facade, you may not adhere to the ideal evenness of the walls. This will save time. And the arrangement of the facade can be carried out immediately after strengthening the insulation to the walls.

Use of low-quality double-glazed windows

Under thermal modernization, any specialist assumes insulating walls and installing the “correct” windows. Even the thickest insulation will not fully retain heat if it does not have good double-glazed windows. High-quality windows are the key to heat conservation, as well as good sound insulation.

To avoid a common mistake, you need to think about how many sashes there will be in each double-glazed window. And also do you need windows that can be ventilated? You can install double-glazed windows immediately during the construction of walls, as well as after the “box” is ready.

Errors during roof installation

Most modern roofing materials are of fairly high quality, however, a common mistake is not to pay due attention to the roof. All problems most often arise precisely because of installation errors. For example, when purchasing high-quality materials for the roof itself, some people install it on cheap fastening elements, which overall makes such a roof short-lived. Or they use materials that are not suitable for installing a particular type of roof. That is why, when installing a roof, you should study this process in detail in order to avoid annoying mistakes.

Incorrect internal arrangement

The house must be comfortable. A common mistake is planning rooms without taking into account the needs of residents. If there is not so much space, you can:

  • donate a guest room;
  • make a small dressing room;
  • Don't make a big living room.

But there are things that even a small home should have. This

  1. Children need their own rooms. If it is not possible to make rooms for each child, zoning should be done in the common nursery.
  2. The kitchen should have a dining area that can accommodate the whole family.
  3. If the house has more than one floor and the bedrooms are, for example, on the second, there should be a bathroom.

A good layout will allow the inhabitants of the house to feel comfortable. And the house itself will be cozy.

Selection of unqualified personnel for construction

And one last thing. It is impossible to build a good house if you involve random people in this process. A well-coordinated team must work. It needs a core of specialists, a good leader, who is also a person who controls every stage of the work.

Choosing builders is undoubtedly the most difficult aspect of creating a home. The best option– one company does all the work. This way the performers will have more responsibility. At the same time, an experienced company with a well-coordinated team can always give timely, competent, necessary recommendations.

Advice

You need to control all stages of construction yourself. It is best not to allow the next stage to begin without checking the previous one. Builders may well hide their mistakes. And those, unfortunately, may later be incorrigible.

In fact, advice on how to avoid mistakes during construction can be continued for a very long time. But the 9 listed are the most typical and difficult to correct. That’s why it’s better to know in advance what will help prevent them.

What to do? - seek advice and assistance from experienced engineers of the Remstroyservice company.

Seven construction mistakes - the difficult task of building a country house .

Lack of preparation and haste when building a house can lead to numerous construction errors. What “rake” do future home owners step into?

Where and how to start construction correctly and successfully?

Why is it so important to design a house?

How to avoid long-term construction and missed deadlines and why you shouldn’t rush?

What problems arise when building the foundation and walls of a house?

How not to make a mistake when choosing a roofing material?

How to build properly in winter?

Seven construction mistakes - simply about the complex. Lack of preparation and haste when building a house can lead to numerous construction errors. What mistakes do developers fall into most often? How to avoid long-term construction? What problems arise when building a foundation and insulating a house? How not to make a mistake when choosing a roofing material?

Experts from Remstroyservice answer.

Construction Mistake #1 - House Design

Many future home owners believe that building a house begins with choosing the first standard project they like. Practice shows that this is a deep misconception - for each site and type of soil for different types materials and floors - it is necessary to either adjust the standard project from the catalog or an individual house project

Another very important point is the layout of the house! To choose the optimal layout that you need, you need the opinion of an experienced architect - designer who will immediately find all the errors and future inconveniences in the layout of the house, problems with the arrangement of furniture and the future convenience of the house! You can also get rid of most of the problems associated with the functionality of the house.

The image error - it occurs if the final decision has not been made about what kind of house you are going to build, wooden or permanent, with or without a terrace. The result of this uncertainty is the completion of the eternally walking parts of the foundation and the destruction of the foundation and the house from excessive load.

Saving mistake - any future home owner wants the house to be as cheap as possible during construction, but this saving on the house design results in irreparable things, the destruction of the house, or vice versa in a large increase in cost due to a non-optimal standard design. Our professional designers achieve up to 30% savings on construction through optimal solutions without loss of quality. This is a saving of about 1,000,000 rubles on a small house. As a result, the cost of the house project pays off 10 times.

Responsibility error - when ordering projects from an unknown company and if errors occur in the project during the construction stage or, even worse, after, you risk being left without a person responsible for such work. Therefore, order a project or buy a ready-made one only from a company with an SRO - a company that is included in the register of Self-Regulating Organizations and is responsible for the design in the amount of the insured amount specified in the License.

Construction mistake No. 2 - incorrect choice of house area.

One of the main questions is, what should be the area of ​​the house? Build a big house or choose a smaller one. One-story, 2-story or 3-story. Make the most of space

Let's give examples and completeness minimum areas for country house premises:

Living room - from 25 sq.

Kitchen - from 15 sq.m.

Bedroom from 15 sq.m

Boiler room from 6 sq.m or from 15 cubic meters

Tambour from 3 sq.m

Storage room from 3 sq.m.

Hall on the second floor from 7 sq.m.

Bathrooms - one per floor from 5 sq.m.

The error of compromise occurs when a family is tired of agreeing on what size house it needs. For example, the husband wants a big house and the wife wants a small and cozy one. The result is that if you follow the path of least resistance and take into account the opinions of all family members and without considering all the wishes with a professional architect, you will end up with a house that does not suit everyone.

It is a financial mistake - when building without a project or without an estimate, there is a danger of unplanned expenses, which will ultimately lead to long-term construction and construction sites abandoned indefinitely. In the case of building a house, a clear understanding of the cost of building a house and calculating the budget for its construction is required, and this directly depends on the choice of size and configuration of the house.

Before choosing a house project, contact us to calculate the cost of its construction and understand the budget for all stages of construction.

Construction error No. 3 - Incorrect location of the house on the site!

The most common mistake is incorrect location houses on the site. How to position the house correctly?

The ideal ratio of house to plot area is 1/10

The maximum permitted house to plot ratio is 45%

Distance from site boundaries from 3 meters

Distance from the road from 5 meters - optimal from 6 meters, in order to fit, for example, a parking lot for a car

The orientation of the house is strictly along the line of the front side of the site

The main facade of the house should face the front side of the site

Living room with terrace and winter garden on a picturesque location or on the courtyard.

On the south side, the maximum number of windows is welcome.

The distance from the house to the bathhouse is preferably at least 6 meters

Distance between wooden houses from 6 meters

The distance between wooden ones is from 8 to 15 depending on the number of storeys

Arrange outbuildings in advance

Entry for cars and trucks (if required)

It is important to decide on the location of the well and septic tank communications

It is imperative to order the planting of the future house on the site, since the site may have a difference in height, which will subsequently affect the change in the height of the foundation and lead to an increase in cost, and sometimes to a complete replacement of the type of foundation.

Construction mistake No. 4 - Refusal to study the soil on the site

What kind of soil do you have on your site? - no one will answer this question 100% without geological surveys.

Even if your neighbors have normal soils, it is not at all a fact that they are normal in yours.

According to geological standards, the distance from the drill hole, along which you can navigate, is 5 meters in radius. That is, the distance between two geological punctures should be no more than 8-10 meters. Accordingly, depending on the size, a house will require from 2 to 7 punctures.

Based on the results of geological surveys, it is determined:

Type and parameters of the foundation.

Foundation depth

Number, size and length of piles in a pile foundation.

The proximity of groundwater, its possible rise and pressure force, and, accordingly, the possibility of implementing a basement, cellar or basement.

An important parameter will be the maximum possible load on the ground to calculate the possible weight of the house.

Geology helps save 5-20% of the cost of building a house

Do not save on geology - 30,000 rubles saved here can lead to the destruction of the foundation and walls and the loss of 3,000,000 rubles.

Construction Mistake #5 - Choosing Builders or a Construction Company

Any house is a complex engineering structure, the construction of which requires professional tasks and competencies. Any mistake made in construction or defect can lead to the destruction of the house in a few years or even 5 years. Choose only a reliable company with good professionals. A lot in construction depends on the builders, but even more depends on the engineers who carry out the technical work. supervision and from their experience in construction. As a rule, involving a crew in construction on its own and an untested technical supervision engineer leads to disastrous consequences during construction. And the main problem with this approach is the absence of a cent of responsibility, which will be responsible for poor-quality construction, either through alterations or monetary compensation. Be sure to choose a contractor with an SRO license, even if it is not required for country construction of houses up to 3 floors.

Construction mistake No. 6 - The foundation is like your neighbor's.

The foundation is the most important part of your home and treating it with neglect means you will subsequently pay with the destruction of the house and the loss of money for repairs. And in most cases, the consequences are incorrect installation or choosing the wrong type of foundation.

One of the most common mistakes is choosing a foundation “like your neighbor’s.” Usually citing the fact that everyone does this here. A rash approach leads to unpredictable results.

In addition, the durability of the house depends on the quality of workmanship and the reliability of the foundation:

- The foundation must be designed directly for your house and the soil on your site.

The poured concrete does not completely cover the reinforcement cage, and the reinforcement is in contact with the ground. This leads to its corrosion, a decrease in the bearing capacity of the foundation and its rapid destruction.

Insufficient foundation depth.

Pouring piles to a slightly buried strip foundation. This can lead to the piles being torn away from the tape due to frost heaving of the soil.

Insufficient width of the belt and a decrease in its load-bearing capacity.

- An overly thick foundation is highly susceptible to the same heaving.

- Filling the sinuses with local soil. When heaving, clayey soil can create a force of up to 40 tons per square meter and, for example, push through the basement wall.

- Incorrect reinforcement of MZLF.

- Excessive reinforcement. For example, the working reinforcement in the center of the tape section is useless. Or insufficient reinforcement.

- Lack of horizontal cut-off waterproofing, resulting in dampness and the appearance of mold on the walls in the house.

- The foundation is not properly insulated, which leads to soil freezing and frost heaving forces.

- The drainage of the foundation and the removal of surface water from it have not been completed.

The heterogeneous type of foundation of the house and veranda leads to rupture of the foundations at the point of contact.

Construction mistake No. 7 - Wrong choice of materials during construction.

You can often hear the opinion that this or that material is bad. It is important to understand that there are no bad materials - there are errors in their use and combination, which affects further operation.

Example: a widely used material for wall insulation, extruded polystyrene foam, its improper use, for example, on roofs, or incorrect calculation of its thickness when insulating external walls, leads to moisture being trapped inside the room or a dew point forming on the inside of the insulation adjacent to the wall. In these cases, moisture accumulates which significantly reduces the durability of the structure.

The roof is constantly exposed to adverse weather conditions. It must withstand significant snow and wind loads. Often, when choosing a material, clients use only questions of price and attractiveness of the material - this is the wrong approach.

Roofing material in the climatic zone of Russia must have a multiple supply of transition cycles through “0”

In this regard, materials such as ceramic tiles and sand-cement tiles are vulnerable; porous materials are destroyed quite quickly during freezing and thawing.

The above examples apply to all wall and finishing materials.

To build a reliable, durable and practical house, it is not enough to lay bricks well, be an excellent roofer or understand electricity. Quality housing is a combination of the right combination all elements of the structure, thought out and carefully planned at the design stage. Errors and omissions can lead not only to wasted time, money and labor, but also to serious problems in operation and even a threat to life.

In this article we will talk about typical mistakes when building a private house and how to avoid them.

1. Savings on purchasing a plot

One of the most common mistakes is trying to buy everything and build it as cheaply as possible. Many buyers make a mistake even at the stage of purchasing a plot of land for construction. Everyone wants to get the maximum discount and find a cheaper plot.

However, it is worth remembering that all good things rarely come cheap. 95% of land, which is sold at a price much lower than the market, has a number of shortcomings and only 5% is sold cheaper due to the need to urgently complete the transaction.

The most common cases when land is sold cheaper than the market:

  1. areas, the “red line” of the boundaries of which runs along the neighbor’s boundary;
  2. plots of irregular shape and angular orientation;
  3. territories remote from the main infrastructure of the village;
  4. lands located far from high-quality roads and transport interchanges;
  5. areas without communications, the connection of which is impossible or will cost more than the land itself.

In addition, when choosing a site, a serious problem that affects the construction of a house and comfortable living in it can be the topography of the land, its composition, and the height of groundwater.

2. Savings on soil testing

When choosing a plot of land, the best solution would be to conduct a study of the quality of the soil before purchasing the property. This is especially true if the area of ​​interest is surrounded by predominantly small wooden and garden houses.

A possible reason for this “environment” may be that local soils are simply not able to support the heavy foundations of concrete and brick houses. Ask the neighbors of the area you are interested in, find out all the possible pitfalls. You can neglect soil analysis only if the neighboring cottages are built from the same materials as your future home and have been lived in by the owners for many years without problems.

This issue is especially relevant for swampy areas, lowlands, areas near water bodies, earthquake-prone areas or those where landslides have been observed.

3. Poorly designed project

The next mistake during construction, which can lead to bad results, is total savings when drawing up a project for the planned housing.

Practice shows that it is best to entrust the implementation of your idea to a professional. It is best to do this before purchasing the site, and it is best to discuss the analysis of the location and design of the future home together with a professional architect. This is a rational method that allows you to properly save money on correcting the shortcomings of the site.

The architect-designer will competently calculate:

  1. load on the foundation;
  2. correct location of the house and buildings relative to the red boundaries and other buildings according to the standards;
  3. will carry out the correct calculation of the area of ​​​​the premises, fastening balconies, verandas, attics, placement of walls, premises, communications and wiring, etc.

4. Selection of low-quality building materials

Your Vacation home– support and protection from many external factors. You want to feel reliable, safe and comfortable in it. Therefore, save on building materials necessary reasonably.

Many people, when choosing expensive bricks, try to save on cement or, when purchasing high-quality insulation, try to find cheaper glue for it. This is fundamentally wrong.

Here again, a competent specialist can come to the rescue, who will calculate an estimate where all upcoming expenses will be spelled out, including even such small details as nails and screws, and indicate the purchase sequence.

5. Wrong timing for construction

The best time for pouring is autumn, when it can dry out under natural conditions within 1-2 months. In this case, the foundation of the house will be reliable.

6. Mistakes when laying the foundation

The foundation is the heart of the entire house, on which it turns out maximum load. It is required not only to clearly calculate its load-bearing capacity, but also to rely on the following factors:

  • It is important to determine the type of foundation needed. It must be laid taking into account groundwater and below the soil freezing level;
  • Screw piles quickly corrode, so they are not recommended for installation in an organic environment;
  • During long breaks in concreting, the seams should be vertical and not horizontal;
  • Experts say that pouring the layers is unacceptable on different days and should be done as quickly as possible so that fragile places do not form at the junction of the sectors, where cracks, moisture and mold may subsequently appear;
  • The use of modern equipment, with the involvement of specialists, will help to avoid many problems. For example, using a vibrating attachment to pour concrete will eliminate the formation of bubbles, which will become voids and contribute to the destruction of the foundation.

7. Construction without wall insulation and poor double-glazed windows

In winter, more than ever, you want warmth and home comfort. A private house It is blown from all sides, so it needs insulation. In addition, the external cladding of the walls will hide their unevenness and imperfections.

Source: rmnt.ru

Walls retain up to 50% of heat, so when building a house, it is logical and correct (immediately after building the walls) to start insulating it. It is necessary to choose the right insulation and follow the technology for laying it so that in the future no voids are created and excessive pressure is not exerted on the walls.

Even the most good insulation interior and exterior walls will not be as effective if you save on windows and install single, low-quality double-glazed windows. Remember that up to 20% of heat escapes through windows

8. Errors when installing the roof and roofing

Most modern materials for roofing are of fairly high quality. Major errors arise mainly due to improper installation.

For example, poor fastenings are purchased, or materials are used that are not suitable for a certain type of roof. Together, all these factors lead to the fact that the roof will be unreliable and short-lived.

It is necessary to properly secure the rafters and calculate the load of snow caps on them in winter time of the year. It is important to properly waterproof the roof and provide for its ventilation. A properly constructed roof is no less important than the foundation or walls of a building.

9. Lack of waterproofing

Errors in the design of waterproofing can lead to the destruction of floors and walls, leading to the formation of mold, sputum and constant high humidity inside the house. All this leads to unpleasant consequences, such as:

  • gradual destruction of the walls of the house;
  • unpleasant odors from the basement;
  • significantly spoils the appearance of the premises and can ruin any renovation.

Choose wisely optimal system Experts will help you with hydro- and thermal insulation for your home.

10. Lack of ventilation

Supply and exhaust ventilation is an important part of the proper functioning of a home and should not be overlooked.

Proper circulation of air masses in the house is important. According to standards, all indoor air must be completely replaced within an hour. Otherwise, residents will be persecuted bad feeling caused by an excess of carbon dioxide and lack of fresh air.

If there is no ventilation in the cottage or it is not built correctly, the windows will always fog up from the increased amount of moisture, and the walls (for the same reason) will become moldy.

11. Incorrectly selected gate

Fencing a country cottage is not only protecting residents from unfriendly visits and glances, but also a powerful decorative design.

You should not buy fences from little-known companies that cannot provide a guarantee for their products and delay or miss installation deadlines. Factory gates made using special technology will protect you from problems in the future.

If you make the gate yourself, you must:

  1. carefully make calculations and make a detailed sketch;
  2. watch installation video tutorials, operating rules;
  3. choose a good mechanism;
  4. organize a durable frame, high-quality hinges and cladding that will last for many years without special control and reconstruction.

12. Improper interior design of the house

The interior arrangement of the cottage is no less important than the erected walls and foundation. Poor layout can reduce the comfort and practicality of a home for occupants. But remodeling an already built house is an expensive and very troublesome task.

That is why you should plan where there will be which rooms, and how many people will be in them, even before the construction of the house begins. Even if the development area is minimal, you need to carefully plan residential and auxiliary premises, accurately determining their size.

Wherein:

  • It's better to sacrifice a guest room and make it smaller size, but will take care of the pantry, which will become an indispensable place for storing various household supplies;
  • For each child, you need to provide a separate room, or if this is not possible, immediately make zoning;
  • If on any floor there are several living rooms, each of which is intended for a family member, it is recommended to place a bathroom on each floor. In the bathrooms, do not forget to hang shelves and heated towel rails;
  • Don't forget about the logical placement of rooms. The kitchen and bathrooms, restrooms should be placed next door to reduce the footage of house wiring. It is better to place the dressing room next to the living room, etc.;
  • In the kitchen, it is imperative to provide a spacious place for a dining table for all family members;
  • It is worth taking care of the design and location of the stairs in advance;
  • Even at the stage of designing a cottage, it is worth considering the installation locations of sockets, regarding the approximate placement of furniture, in order to hide the wires behind the walls, under the plaster;
  • Consider the entrance to the house and doorways in such a way that they take up a minimum of space, are appropriate and do not create discomfort.

Usually, when buying or building a house, many people do not pay attention to these details. However, practice shows that every ill-thought-out little thing, with each year of residence, usually creates more and more discomfort and inconvenience for residents. Therefore, it is better not to rush into the construction and interior design of the house and think through everything carefully.

13. Recruitment of unqualified contractors, builders

Even the best preparation for construction and the purchase of materials that meet all the requirements can reduce all efforts to nothing if random, untested, and especially unqualified people are chosen as builders.

Your future home must be built by a well-coordinated team of workers under the guidance of an experienced foreman. At the same time, certain communications must be laid by a specialist in his field - plumber, electrician, plumber, etc., strictly following the developed project.

At the same time, you should not rely on the foreman for everything and it is better to control each stage of construction yourself, checking the compliance of the consumable materials included in the estimate, in order to avoid shortcomings, errors and theft.

When choosing a contractor, it is better to choose trusted companies that specialize in the construction of turnkey cottages and have a lot of real positive reviews in their arsenal.

Conclusion

A number of preparatory measures will help to build a high-quality and reliable house, including the purchase of a plot, the study of its soil, and the development of a construction plan. Experts will help you avoid mistakes when planning and building a cottage, who will conduct a high-quality examination of the house project and at the same time take into account the wishes of the owner.

You should not save on building materials and choosing a contractor. It is also recommended to independently monitor all stages of construction and monitor the compliance of material consumption and labor costs with respect to the pre-compiled estimate.