Do-it-yourself long-burning wood-burning stoves. Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

Maximum heating efficiency with minimum fuel consumption can be achieved by using high efficiency equipment. An example is a home-made long-burning stove that does not require a constant load of firewood. It is enough to fill the firebox with logs once so that they burn for the next 12–15, or even 20 hours. This is very convenient for heating greenhouses and small country houses. Moreover, even a novice master who is familiar with elementary welding skills is able to make such a design.

Types of long burning furnaces

For suburban buildings, the problem with heat sources is very acute, and it is almost impossible to survive without heating in winter. Far from cities, there is no centralized heating, main gas pipelines to garden plots and small villages are not carried out, there are interruptions in electricity, and not everyone can afford solid fuel boilers.

Traditional wood-burning stoves have a significant drawback. Their firebox burns fuel too quickly, so you need to constantly throw up logs. During the night, the stove cools down, and in the morning it becomes cool in the house.

In long-burning solid fuel stoves, after filling the furnace, heat is released for a long time due to its smoldering rather than burning. Such furnaces can work:

The most common designs include:

Each of the furnaces has its own characteristics, but all of them:

• warm the room for a long time;
• easy to care for;
• economical in terms of fuel consumption;
• relatively safe;
• warm up quickly;
• durable enough.

In retail chains and online stores, you can easily choose a ready-made long-burning stove of different sizes and capacities. They look aesthetically pleasing, but are expensive. A self-made construction will cost much less, and materials for it can almost always be found in a barn or on a house adjoining site.

The principle of operation of the long-burning furnace

A distinctive feature of the process of long-term combustion is the combustion of solid fuel not from the bottom up, but vice versa - from the top down. As the upper layers burn through, the flame sinks lower, affecting layer after layer. To understand why in this case the firewood burns longer, one should turn to the physical component of the process.

A simple example is a match or a torch. If you turn them with the burning end down or sideways, they will burn out very quickly. But if the flame is directed upwards, then the combustion process will be much longer. In this case, the match will release much more heat energy.

Long-term burning in stoves is ensured by smoldering firewood at high temperatures, and the intensity of heat release is regulated by the supply of air through vents or blowers.

The high efficiency of stoves based on long-term combustion is obtained due to the pyrolysis process, or thermochemical decomposition of solid fuel components. In this case, the logs burn out completely, and heat escapes through the chimney in small volumes.

Such stoves appeared during the times of war communism in Russia, when even firewood was in short supply, and boiler houses did not work. These devices saved the population from the cold during World War II.

The potbelly stove device is ingenious and is an improved version of Russian stoves. Its design consists of a metal case with two doors and a chimney. Firewood is thrown into the upper hole, and with the help of the lower door they regulate the air supply and, accordingly, the process of burning and smoldering.

Note! The potbelly stove is omnivorous, so you can burn everything that is at hand in it - coal, firewood and even old furniture.

Thanks to the pyrolysis process, combustion occurs slowly, and more heat enters the room. A traditional stone stove consumes a huge amount of solid fuel, which cannot be said about a potbelly stove, which consumes it sparingly.

The genius of the potbelly stove lies in the absence of a grate inside the metal case. Air through the lower door is directed directly into the mass of fuel. Covered blower - burning subsides, open - intensifies.

Efficient operation of the potbelly stove is possible when filling the firebox with firewood only a quarter of the volume. Therefore, it should not be packed to capacity, otherwise the pyrolysis process will be disrupted.

Stove fireplace of long burning

Potbelly stove fireplace Expo

The fireplace attracts with the view of an open fire, and many owners of country houses dream of having it in their living room. But some think about the benefits of such a furnace. The design of a classic English fireplace is based on the principle of long burning and allows the fire in the firebox to glow for a long time. But the efficiency, which does not exceed 50%, and low heat transfer are its significant drawbacks.

Important! Inside the firebox of an English fireplace there is a smoke tooth that affects the internal circulation of air masses and flue gases.

It does not allow the incoming air to go up, directing it to the area of ​​laying the logs.

Another option for a long-burning stove fireplace is the so-called Dutch woman. Before kindling, the blower is closed in it, and the firebox is loaded with firewood only a quarter, without closing the door during combustion. Most of the heated air will still fly out through the chimney to the street, but the effect of prolonged contemplation of the fire during the evening will remain indelible.

As a stove, the bubafonya is not perfect, but, using the principles of its design, the craftsmen learned to create more advanced units that allow the fuel to burn out more slowly.

At the heart of the bubafoni is a steel cylinder with inlet and outlet pipes, as well as a "pancake" in the form of an oppression with blades located inside and an inlet air duct welded to it. As the fuel burns out, the load gradually descends under its own weight. The blades have a curved shape, thanks to which the gases scroll over the pancake several times until they burn out as much as possible.

The chimney for bubafoni is made spasmodic in cross section so that the air that has not reacted with the fuel is not drawn out.

The process of fuel combustion begins from the upper layer, where air enters through the inlet pipe. Then the combustion zone moves lower.

The disadvantage of bubafoni is the impossibility of its operation on coal and pellets, as well as its low efficiency. Adding the following portions of logs to it will not work until the previous ones decay to the end. And the top cover of the stove is not suitable for cooking, like a potbelly stove.

Slobozhanka

The stove was named after the historical area where it “was born”. It is a full-fledged heating device with a hob.

According to the principle of operation, the Slobozhanka is similar to the bubaphone, but the air flow here is carried out from the side. Then it is drawn into the perforated casing located inside the housing and rises up. The fuel in this case takes in as much air as is required for smoldering, and the excess moves on.

The air in the Slobozhanka enters all fuel layers, so the pyrolysis process is more active, and the furnace works more efficiently.

Conclusion

All the designs of long-burning furnaces described above can be made independently. To do this, stock up on drawings and the necessary materials. Homemade stoves will cost less than purchased ones, although outwardly they will be less attractive.

Homemade long-burning stoves: choosing the best

Homemade long-burning stoves can be very different in their functionality and appearance. But they are all much cheaper than their factory-made counterparts.

Making a homemade long burning wood stove

Manufacturers and craftsmen have always been attracted to models that can produce maximum heat with minimal fuel consumption. Numerous attempts to create such equipment have led to the emergence of a long-burning furnace. A home-made stove is used for heating small apartments and small storage facilities - warehouses, greenhouses and utility rooms. The second advantage of this furnace is its simple design, which is quite possible to assemble with your own hands.

Advantages of the model

Why is wood fired equipment so popular?

What is a long burning wood stove made of?

Original long-burning potbelly stove

The answer lies in its strengths:

• The device continues to function even after fuel burnout (some models are able to work from 10 to 24 hours);
• The long-burning furnace is a self-contained design;
• Small dimensions;
• Versatility in the choice of fuel - consumes coal, sawdust, wood chips, etc .;
• Homemade construction does not require a foundation;
• Does not need regular use. That is, the downtime period does not affect its performance in any way;
• Sufficiently high efficiency - 85-90%;
• During a long operation, the stove practically does not emit smoke;
• It can even be built from an ordinary metal barrel.

The unconditional advantages of this design should also include its low cost in the heating equipment market. Do-it-yourself device construction does not require large expenditures on material or key elements.

The stove in question, however, is not without its drawbacks. A long-burning stove cannot cope with heating large rooms, since it is not designed to connect a do-it-yourself water system.

List of required materials

The first step is to decide on the type of room for which the equipment will be made by hand. Be sure to make sure that the workplace has access to outlets, plenty of free space and a canopy that reliably protects from the weather.

Metal furnace on long-burning sawdust - drawing

The list of necessary materials for making a structure with your own hands includes the following elements: sheet steel, sections of a thick-walled metal pipe, an old gas cylinder and a large fire extinguisher.

The main component is a large 200 l barrel made of cast iron or steel. Before choosing a barrel for a long-burning furnace, carefully inspect its surface - it should not have visible damage and rust. The thicker the walls of the barrel, the longer the self-made structure will last.

• Materials for legs (small pipes, fittings or channels);
• 2 steel circles with a cross section of 5 mm;
• Channel;
• Door made of cast iron or stainless steel;
• A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is slightly longer than the barrel (15-20 cm);
• Pipe with a diameter of 150 mm (for a chimney);

Assembly of heating equipment

Step-by-step instruction

The main element for the stove should not have a top. In the case of a balloon, it is necessary to cut off its top.

In the case of a gas cylinder, before cutting off the top, it is necessary to carry out the procedure for evaporating the remaining gas:

• unscrew the valve and fill the bottle with water to the brim. Only then can you start cutting off the surface;
• A do-it-yourself metal base is welded to the lower part of the future long-burning furnace, of the desired square shape, since it is more stable and reliable, in addition, legs are easier to attach to such a structure;
• Production of a clamping circle. A circle is cut out of a piece of steel, slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel. Right in the center of the cut out structure, a small hole of 10-15 cm is made for the chimney. We insert the pipe into the barrel and check how far it comes out of the stove. Remember, a wood-fired structure needs a chimney that extends at least 15-20 cm above the heating equipment;

Elements of a homemade long-burning stove

• In another part of the barrel, a cross-shaped channel is welded - this part is responsible for the fuel supply;
• The stove cover is either made by hand from new materials, or a previously cut off top is used for it. It is necessary to cut a small hole in the cover for the clamping ring tube.
• Do not rush to cut a hole for the pipe. First, coordinate its dimensions with the dimensions of the barrel (the circle should smoothly descend into the structure with barely noticeable contact with the walls);
• A small hole for the ash pan is cut out from the bottom of the barrel. Remember to take into account the size and shape of the ash door when cutting the hole at the bottom of the barrel. Practice has shown that for a long-burning furnace it is better to provide a rectangular ash pan;
• At this stage, all components are welded;
• It remains to cut a hole for a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm in the upper part of the body. The chimney pipe is also welded to the structure and securely sealed.

It is worth noting that it is desirable to seal all joints by welding, since fire-resistant sealants will not withstand exposure to very high temperatures for a long time.

Several technical features

The stove should not be located near walls and combustible interior items - armchairs, sofas, beds, linoleum, etc. Make sure that there is always free space around the long-burning stove, surrounded by fire-resistant materials.

Long burning furnace location

Remember, a wood-burning design is prone to severe overheating, so once again make sure that there are no combustible objects near the equipment during its operation.

Practice has shown that it is better to make chimneys collapsible, since sooner or later the time comes to clean the structure. Cleaning a long-burning stove is easier with a removable chimney. It is better to design a home-made chimney as follows: the joints should be located in the opposite direction to the moving gases.

How to use the constructed structure correctly?

The long burning stove has several nuances of its use:

• First, the cover is removed and the clamping device is removed;
• Fuel is loaded to the very bottom. It is worth noting that the amount of loaded fuel should not exceed the level of the chimney;
• The main requirement is that firewood must be pressed, that is, stacked as tightly as possible. So you will achieve a slight increase in efficiency - by 5%;
• Materials for kindling are placed on top of the firewood: small branches or paper. It is better to water the top layer of firewood with kerosene or oil;
• Set fire to firewood and close the structure with a pressure circle;
• When the fuel flares up well, do not forget to close the air damper.

Conclusion

Long-burning furnaces are the most promising type of heating equipment at the present stage of development, despite the fact that its technology was patented back in 1920. The heating system is characterized by high efficiency, excellent performance and complete autonomy.

Homemade wood burning stove

A home-made long-burning wood-burning stove - an overview of the advantages, a list of materials needed to create, assembly instructions, operating rules.

How to make long-burning stoves with your own hands

Owners of greenhouses, garden plots, garages and other buildings that need heating will be interested to know if it is possible to make a long-burning wood stove with your own hands. In other words, a stove that can be loaded with firewood once and then not approached for a couple of days.

Scheme of the device of a long-burning boiler.

Yes, such a long-burning stove can be built as a homemade product - with the simplest skills of construction work.

Homemade long-burning wood stoves: scheme and principle of operation

If the air supply is free and the draft is strong, dry firewood burns very quickly.

If, when the firewood is fully loaded, by controlling the air supply, combustion is transformed into smoldering, then the heat release will drag on for hours or even days.

Here is the device of a simple, but rather effective wood-burning stove, oriented to long-term burning, which repeats the scheme of the Stropuva boiler. In the people, this stove is called “bubafonya” (after the name of the person who posted the scheme of the stove on the Internet for the first time).

Scheme of a homemade long-burning stove.

It is no more difficult to make such an oven than a potbelly stove more familiar to the general public.

However, the principle of combustion and the design of such a furnace are completely non-standard. Combustion does not take place from the bottom up, as in ordinary stoves, but, starting from the upper layers, goes down until the firewood burns out.

Firewood under the pancake in the firebox is lit from above, thanks to the air supply pipe. When burning, gases seep through the edges of the pancake and exit into the chimney. Pancake as the firewood burns down. It is possible to control the air supply with a damper at the ends of the air supply pipe.

Long burning wood stove materials:

• iron 200-liter barrel with a sealed bottom (for fuel and lubricants);
• a circle (pancake), cut out of metal, of a slightly smaller diameter compared to the barrel (the circumference of the pancake is slightly less than the circumference of the barrel);
• 4 corners or channels 50-60 mm high and less than the radius of the pancake;
• metal 100 mm pipe (blowing) with a length of 5 cm more than the height of the barrel;
• 150 mm metal pipe (for the chimney), preferably 5 m long.

Homemade "bubafonya" of long burning

Cut off the welding seam from the upper end of the barrel with a grinder, align the sharp edges. The result is a cylinder and a lid with a finished flange. Using a hammer or sledgehammer, bend the edges of the cylinder inward. And bend the lid collar outward. Turn the cap over and put it on the cylinder. The lid will sit securely in place without slipping.

Use a chisel to cut a hole for the blowpipe in the center of the cover (for it to pass freely into the hole, it is enough to use a diameter of 102 mm).

Bubafoni assembly diagram.

The hole for the cork on the lid can be tightly welded, but it is better to leave it: looking inside, you can regulate the combustion process.

Then, in the upper part of the barrel, a place is marked for attaching a piece of the chimney pipe.

The intended hole is cut out, and a piece of a chimney pipe 20-25 cm long and 150 mm in diameter is welded. You can install a shut-off damper directly inside the pipe. The body of the stove is ready.

Next in line is the air blower. For greater rigidity, the edges of the pancake are bent (so that the pancake does not twist from the heat). A hole is cut in the center of the pancake for the blower pipe, and it is welded. If a lid from another barrel is used for a pancake, then the cork hole is tightly welded: during combustion, gases will pass only around the circumference of the pancake. Channels or corners are welded to the pancake from the bottom side. The air supply device is also ready.

It will fit inside the cylinder. At the top of the blower pipe, an adjusting damper of the same diameter as that of the pipe is placed. A threaded pin is welded vertically to the inner wall of the pipe;

After fitting the damper, tighten it with the wing nut. By loosening the nut, moving the damper in relation to the edge of the pipe and tightening the nut back, it will be possible to regulate the flow of air into the furnace.

Install the lid on top - and the whole stove is ready.

It remains to install a pipe for the chimney. Its diameter must be less than 150 mm, otherwise the combustion products will not be completely removed. For good draft, it is better to have a pipe 5 m long. Install it near the stove, preferably on legs. Seal the bottom of the pipe tightly.

Connect the stove end-to-end to the knee, which is welded to the chimney, tighten with a clamp, placing fiberglass under it for tightness. To drain the condensate that collects in the pipe, a ball valve is welded under the elbow of the pipe (it will be possible to clear the blockage with a bar).

This valve is necessary, since when the condensate freezes, the weld can break. Condensate, in addition, can flow into the stove, and through the looseness of the connecting clamp - out.

Now it is already possible to heat the stove "bubafonya". After removing the cover, pull out the air supply unit. Lay the firewood - while the height should not exceed the height of the lower edge of the chimney elbow. If you put firewood vertically, then more will come in. Logs can also be chosen large, up to 20 cm in diameter - they will burn without problems.

The top layer is formed from finely chopped chips. A rag or paper is placed on top, poured a little kerosene. Now the firewood is covered with a pancake of the air supply device, the stove cover is strung on top. Opening the blower damper, a piece of lit paper or a rag is thrown into the air supply pipe (matches quickly go out due to strong draft).

When firewood flares up with a characteristic crackle, the blower damper is completely blocked. Bubafonya in this mode can work without any supervision for days.

This long burning wood stove produces little ash due to the fact that the wood burns almost completely. Ashes can be left uncleaned for a long time.

As you can see, it is quite possible to design the Bubafonya furnaces with your own hands. Many craftsmen make them not only from barrels, but also from old gas cylinders, large fire extinguishers. The main requirement for the future furnace is strong steel walls.

This is how you can make a long-burning stove.

Homemade long-burning stoves: the principle of operation

Homemade long-burning stoves, regardless of operating conditions, can be very effective. The main requirement for such a furnace is strong steel walls.

Pros and cons of a homemade long-burning wood burning stove

Wood-burning solid fuel stoves have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to achieve automation of the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. Periodically, you have to be distracted from business and throw firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operation time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long burning mode.

What is long burning mode

Wood combustion is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. During ignition, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases are themselves flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. It is the combustion of pyrolysis gases that gives a bright flame with a high temperature.

In a conventional furnace, complete burnout of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, for the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, a separate chamber or compartment of the furnace is intended, where they are enriched with air oxygen. Thanks to this, a more complete combustion of fuel occurs, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the furnace increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the firewood pre-burning chamber, air access to it is limited. Firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove at one load is significantly increased, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the "long burning regime".

Advantages and disadvantages of long burning stoves

Like any other unit, such furnaces have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

• economical consumption of firewood;
• high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
• versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, and waste from woodworking enterprises, and sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
• small sizes;
• ease of control - using a damper for air supply;
• simplicity of design, thanks to which a long-burning stove is easy to make with your own hands.

Not without a long-burning stove and disadvantages:

• during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore, special requirements are imposed on the device of the chimney - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
• in order to switch to the long burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the normal mode in order to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the burning process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for do-it-yourself stoves.

The design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning furnaces have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of firewood takes place, and in the other - afterburning of wood gases. The location of the cameras relative to each other can be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above, as a result of primary smoldering, firewood is compacted and settled, and gases enter the afterburner chamber, which can be located both below and through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blowers to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. For such stoves, a fan is not needed, but the volume of the loading chamber is usually smaller.

To regulate the intensity of combustion, an air supply channel with a damper is made. It can also have a different shape and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and more intense smoldering, some stoves are equipped with a load that lowers as the firewood burns out. Typically, long-burning stoves on sawdust have such a design.

Application of pyrolysis ovens

Long-burning stoves on wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, greenhouses. They can also be used for heating a house, but it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the furnace, since carbon monoxide may be released.

You can learn how to make a cold smoked smoke generator by looking here.

Here you will find the most understandable drawings for creating an effective potbelly stove with your own hands: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/burzhujki-chertezhi.html

Materials for the manufacture of a long-burning stove

Long-burning furnaces can be made by hand from sheet metal or various metal structures. Examples and drawings of such stoves are given below.

barrel stove

A do-it-yourself heater designed for heating utility rooms is made of a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. The stove runs on sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste. A small barrel for loading fuel is installed on a stand inside a large barrel. Under it is an ash pan - a drawer made of sheet metal.

The stove itself is placed on a stand, the role of which is played by a car disk. A smoke branch pipe is made from scraps of a pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm. The barrel is equipped with a sheet metal lid with a handle and an air inlet.

Inside a small barrel, a log sharpened into a cone is installed, it is indicated in the drawing. Sawdust is piled around it. After tamping, the log is taken out and the sawdust is set on fire. In the process of smoldering, gas is released into the space of a large barrel, where it is afterburned.

Furnace with a water circuit from a metal pipe

A home-made long-burning stove made of a metal pipe that can run on wood or sawdust is equipped with a water circuit. Loading is made from below, to intensify combustion, an air distributor is installed inside the furnace, pressing smoldering firewood.

A telescopic hollow pipe is installed in the center of the disc, through which air enters directly into the combustion chamber, where, thanks to the ribs welded onto the disc, it evenly distributes it over the entire surface of the firewood. It goes down on its own as the fuel burns out. You can lift it before loading with a cable.

The loading door is located in the center of the furnace. Below is a cleaning door and an ash pan. At the top is a chimney. The stove is equipped with a water circuit with nozzles for water inlet and outlet. Such a stove with a water circuit can quite effectively heat small houses and other premises, and you can make it from improvised materials with your own hands.

Waste Gas Cylinder Furnace

A stove from a gas cylinder can be made without extra costs and finding the right material. The dimensions of a 50-liter cylinder are perfect for making such a stove, and the wall thickness and tightness make it safe to use.

The design of the furnace as a whole does not differ from the previous model, this can be seen in the drawing. A cut-off propane tank is used as the body. Do-it-yourself sheet metal is made with a suitable size cover with a hole for the air distributor pipe.

Fuel is loaded through the top, filling the volume of the cylinder almost to the chimney. Such a stove works on sawdust and other waste, as well as on small firewood. The fuel is carefully tamped, ignited with wood chips or an ignition agent and an air distributor is installed, after which it is covered with a lid.

The efficiency of such a stove is quite high, and thanks to the hermetic case, it can be used to heat rooms where people stay for a long time. If desired, it can be equipped with a water circuit by passing the chimney through the boiler.

Furnace "Bubafonya" from a gas cylinder

The design of the stove is as simple as possible, it consists of only a few parts: a body, a cover, an air distributor and a chimney. For stability, the oven can be placed on legs from the corner. To remove ash from below, you can make an ash pan with a door.

1. The remaining gas is released from the gas cylinder and washed several times with water.
2. Cut off the top of the balloon. You can make a furnace cover out of it by making a hole with a diameter of 65 mm in the center. The edges of the lid and body of the furnace are ground so that the lid fits tightly onto the body.
3. In the upper part of the cylinder, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made for the chimney and a pipe section 30-40 cm long is welded horizontally.
4. At the bottom of the cylinder, an ash pan cleaning door is made. To do this, cut out a rectangular section of the cylinder body, grind the sections, weld the hinges and install the door on the resulting hole. The door is equipped with a latch.
5. The balloon is placed on legs for stability. They can be made from a corner, pipe scraps or a rim.

For ease of carrying, bar handles are welded on the sides.

The critical part of the oven is the air distributor. It must be heavy enough to effectively clamp sawdust and wood chips, withstand the heat of the kiln, and have divergent blades. They can be made from scraps of a corner. The distributor itself is made of thick-walled steel - at least 6 mm. Cut out a circle with a diameter of 20-40 mm less than the inner diameter of the furnace with a hole in the center. A pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and a height greater than the height of the stove is installed in the hole. Through it, air will flow to the combustion chamber. The blades are welded at the bottom of the disk.

The body of the stove can be painted with paint based on organosilicon compounds with your own hands, having previously removed scale, rust and dirt from its surface. Any other paint will quickly burn out, as the stove heats up to high temperatures during operation.

Homemade sawdust stove "Bubafonya" can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Usually, this stove is used as a mobile one: it can be put in a greenhouse for the time of freezing, it can be used to heat a workshop or a barn in winter, or it can be used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

Long-burning wood-burning stove: a home-made design from improvised materials

This article tells about the various designs of home-made long-burning wood-burning stoves, their principle of operation, advantages and disadvantages.

Furnace designers in their search always aim to make a model that would give out maximum heat with minimum fuel costs. It is these furnaces that will be discussed below.

For them, any type of solid fuel is used, including production waste. They are suitable for heating small dwellings and work premises - utility rooms, country houses, warehouses, greenhouses, garages, etc.

In addition, modern Kulibins may well build a long-burning stove with their own hands. Drawings of one option, published here, will help with this.

First of all, let's see why you should pay attention to long-burning stoves. Their advantages:

• Long work on a single fuel tab (different models from 10 to 20 hours).
• Autonomous operation - does not require human supervision.
• Small size and weight.
• Intolerance to fuel (coal, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, pellets).
• Having a foundation is not essential.
• You can heat irregularly, calmly endure periods of downtime and winter absence of the owners (if we are talking about a summer house).
• Fuel is burned almost completely - there is little ash, a lot of benefits.
• Efficiency 85-90%.
• The stove does not smoke. It emits little smoke at all.
• Cyclic temperature changes (hot, warm, cool) are approved by doctors as a mode that tempers the body.
• It is possible to make your own from an ordinary barrel.

The low cost of such furnaces can also be attributed to the pluses. In addition, if you do it yourself, the price is even lower.

There are no shortcomings as such in long-burning furnaces. There are conditions in which it is not very suitable.

So, long-burning stoves cannot be used for large houses. A water circuit is not attached to them, which means that their path is to heat small rooms.

In France, stoves are divided into: decorative, up to 10 hours on one tab, and more than 10 hours on one tab. It is the latter that are called "long-burning" furnaces. At home, they can sell you a stove with an indicator of 2-4 hours under the guise of "long burning".

Principle of operation and device

The designs of long-burning stoves may differ, but they have the same principle of operation - energy is generated not from an open flame, but during the pyrolysis process (under high temperature, wood smolders and very hot gas is released, which includes methane, carbon monoxide, hydrogen and other components) .

Long burning furnace device

Slow and efficient combustion occurs due to the dosing of air with the help of a regulator. When the fuel flares up well (after about 20 minutes), the hole is closed, and the access of oxygen is minimized. Firewood smolders and almost completely turns into gas.

In turn, flue gases are collected in the ignition chamber, and when they burn out, a lot of heat is released.

Do not try to increase the efficiency of a conventional oven by switching it to smoldering mode. Well, if the gases just go into the chimney. In the worst case, they enter the room through leaky doors.

Do-it-yourself oven assembly

To begin with, decide on the room where a home-made long-burning boiler will be made.

Job site requirements:

• access to electricity;
• enough free space;
• good sound insulation, or distance from people who may be disturbed by noise;
• protection from precipitation, the ability to remove blanks for storage.

Do-it-yourself heating stove

Now do-it-yourself materials and tools for a long-burning wood-fired boiler. The main element, or base, from which the stove will be made is a 200-liter barrel (steel or cast iron). It must be free of damage and rust. If there is no suitable one, you can use:

• a piece of thick-walled pipe;
• sheet steel;
• old gas cylinder;
• big fire extinguisher.

The main criterion is the wall thickness. The service life of the furnace will depend on it.

Metal furnace on long-burning sawdust - drawing

Other materials:

• if the base is round, you need material for the legs (rebar, trimming a small pipe, channel, etc.);
• 5 mm steel (2 circles about the same diameter as the barrel);
• channel;
• finished door, or do-it-yourself;
• 100 mm. the pipe is slightly longer than the barrel (about 15 cm);
• 150 mm. chimney pipe (about 5 meters long).

Tools for carrying out work on the manufacture of the furnace:

• grinder or autogen;
• electric welding;
• ax and hammer;
• meters (tape measure, plumb line, level).

Practical part

Making a long burning wood stove with your own hands in steps:

1. The container should not have a top. If this is a balloon, we cut off the top with a grinder or autogenous. If you are using a gas bottle, before sawing it, you need to unscrew the valve, fill it with water and saw it without draining the water. The cut must be accurate (we still need the detail).
2. If a steel sheet is used, bend it and weld the bottom at least 5mm thick. In this case, the square shape is preferable because of the stability. If the bottom is round, you need to weld 4 legs to it.
3. Production of a clamping circle. We cut out a circle from steel, which will be slightly smaller in diameter than the barrel. In the middle of the circle we cut a hole for the pipe (10 cm). We weld the pipe. The circle should easily pass into the barrel, while the pipe should protrude above its top by about 15 cm.
4. On the other side of the circle, we weld a channel in the shape of a cross. In the future, it will press down the fuel.
5. Furnace cover. This is either the top cut off earlier, or another circle of steel. A hole is made in the lid, where the pipe from the clamping circle is inserted. It is important that the pipe passes into the hole freely (fall under its own weight), but without large gaps.
6. A small hole is made at the bottom of the barrel, through which it will be convenient to remove the ash in the future. A door (purchased or homemade) is welded to it.
7. A hole of 150 mm is cut in the upper part of the body and a pipe for the chimney is welded. The length of the segment must be greater than the transverse dimension of the furnace itself.

Induction furnaces are used not only for melting metal, but also for space heating. - the principle of operation and use for heating, operation features.

You will find step-by-step instructions for making a sauna stove.

The fireplace in the house creates a cosiness and good mood. But such a stove is most often used for decoration and is not cheap. Here is all about how to assemble a fireplace stove yourself.

How to drown

The cover is removed, the clamping circle with the pipe is removed. Fuel is loaded at the bottom of the furnace (maximum height - up to the opening of the chimney pipe). Firewood or other fuel should be folded as tightly as possible. Small twigs are placed on top of the firewood, on them is a rag soaked in kerosene or paper.

A clamping circle is installed from above, the lid is closed.

When the stove flares up, close the damper that supplies air, and leave for many hours.

The long-burning furnace is not kindled with matches (they will go out while they are flying along the pressure circle pipe), instead a burning rag, or paper, is thrown into the pipe.

Technical nuances

• The stove should not be close to walls, objects, etc. Leave enough space around it.
• The oven gets very hot - do not keep flammable materials, fuel, anything that can catch fire, dry out or melt near it.
• When making a chimney, consider how to clean it in the future. The best option is to make it collapsible.
• If the chimney is to be assembled, mount the elements so that the joints are located in the opposite direction with respect to the moving gases.

When cleaning out the ashes, each time leave a part of it. If combustion takes place on an ash pillow, the bottom of the furnace will not burn out longer.

A few words about the chimney and reflector

For the chimney of a long-burning furnace, a pipe 150 mm in diameter and 5 m long is suitable.

If you take a pipe of a smaller diameter, it will not cope, if it is larger, the draft will be excessive, and the efficiency of the furnace will decrease.

To regulate the draft, the pipe is provided with a valve.

A cleaning door is made on the bottom of the chimney. Condensation inevitably accumulates in any pipe, and especially in long-burning furnaces, because the gases, having given up all the heat, become completely cold at the outlet.

For the same reason, chimney pipes must be well insulated. Sandwich technology is perfect - these are two pipes one in one and a layer of thermal insulation between them.

It is better if there are a minimum of knees and joints in the chimney. In places where pipes pass through the roof, ceiling or walls, insulation must be done.

At the very top of the pipe, a deflector (or chimney) is made to protect against snow, rain and wind blowing into the pipe.

Homemade long-burning stove

If the stove is installed in a stoker, then it does not need any reflector, but if it is in the room that it heats, then the brickwork around it can perform two functions:

1. Become a protective screen for walls and objects.
2. Become a heat accumulator.

The body of the furnace is metal, which means that it quickly heats up and cools quickly (as soon as the combustion process in the furnace ends). The brick screen, laid out on three sides of the stove, accumulates heat and will give it off for a longer time. The role of a reflector can also be performed by a profiled sheet or a smooth sheet of metal.

About fuel

The best fuel option for a long-burning stove is dry poles. However, often stoves are made for this, in order to save on good-quality fuel and use what is at hand.

Pellets produced by dry pressing can be from anything:

• cones;
• chips;
• sawdust;
• nut shells;
• straw;
• bark;
• skins of seeds;
• husks from garlic and onions;
• citrus peels.

Coal can produce very high temperatures. It can only be used if the stove is made of very thick materials, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

For a small house or garage, a long-burning stove can be a great solution. With some welding skills, it can be done in one or two days. This will help you save a lot of money.

Compact ovens that can be moved around are very handy in some situations. For example, if you often move or have a small room that needs to be heated. , varieties, as well as step-by-step assembly instructions.

Read about organizing heating in alternative ways in

In principle, it is not so difficult for a man to make such an oven with his own hands. Tell me, in terms of functionality, how good is it compared to the average boiler?

The Slow Burning Stove is practical, as it doesn't run out of fuel as quickly as normal. But in the summer, their importance is overestimated. In other matters, it depends on whether you like fresh firewood)

In the conditions of today's high cost of energy carriers for each family, the issue of paying bills for heating in the winter is becoming more and more acute - the most expensive of utility costs. For urban residents, this issue is not so relevant, since the presence of central heating involves only two options: either payment for the energy consumed by the meter, or payment at the average rate from the area and the number of people living on it.

For residents of private homes, the choice is much wider and they are free to choose from many options for heat sources - gas, coal, wood, electricity - and heating systems. According to numerous parameters in this “battle”, the stove for giving long burning often comes out the winner.

This is not surprising, because electricity is a kilometer bill for energy consumed; gas is cheap, but the initial documentation and investments in laying a gas pipeline eat up all the benefits from cheap fuel at a time. As a result, classic country stoves or a fireplace with firewood remain as the most affordable and convenient fuel.

Modern technologies have led to the fact that even a seemingly ordinary heater has undergone a number of technological changes, and as a result, today there is a much more advanced type of heater than a conventional potbelly stove - long-burning systems. Their parameters are much superior to other types of heating systems, with an efficiency of up to 90 percent. For example, you can look at the average fuel consumption in furnaces of the same power with different types of fuel (in the example, the power of the boilers is 10 kW):

• drip furnace on diesel - 3 kg / h;
• solid fuel stove - 1.5 kg / h;
• long-burning furnace - less than 1 kg / h.

As you can see, the numbers are convincing, so it’s worth figuring out what such a system is and how you can install a long-burning stove with your own hands.

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What is it and what are the advantages/disadvantages

The operation of the furnace for long-term combustion is based on the process of pyrolysis, that is, the chemical decomposition of fuel under the influence of temperature. This is realized by using two combustion chambers in the design at once instead of one, as in conventional types of heating systems.

The first chamber is filled with fuel (wood), which does not actively burn, but only smolders - pyrolysis occurs with decomposition into methane, hydrogen, etc. The resulting mixture of combustible gaseous substances is transferred to the second chamber and burned here. Thanks to this scheme, combustion is much more complete, since in conventional furnaces a significant part of the combustible gases is emitted without use into the atmosphere through the chimney.

Like any other technological process, heating using pyrolysis has both positive qualities and disadvantages, and they must be known and taken into account before making a decision on the use. Benefits include:

• The most complete combustion of fuel, which results in significant savings and increases the efficiency (up to 90%);
• Due to complete combustion, the solid residue from combustion (ash) is minimal - the remaining handful of ash from burnt firewood can be easily removed and will not accumulate mountains of slag on the site;

• Environmental safety is ensured again by almost complete combustion - emissions into the atmosphere contain almost nothing, with the exception of water vapor and carbon dioxide;
• The absence of foreign smell in the room during combustion - such aromas in conventional stoves can appear from unburned organic residues;
• The full value of the use of the fuel put into the furnace ensures a much longer burning time than in standard systems - due to this, it is much less common to “throw” firewood into the furnace;
• The speed of the "start" - the time to start warming up the room comes faster, since it does not require active ignition of a large amount of fuel, but only the beginning of the release of a gaseous mixture in the first chamber of the system;
• Since the main source of heat production by such a stove is a gas mixture, it becomes possible to smoothly adjust the heating, almost the same as in gas boilers (the adjustment is made by reducing or adding the amount of air supplied to the chamber necessary for combustion).

Of course, it was not without drawbacks:

• The cost of modern equipment with pyrolysis technology can be quite high, especially with additional features;
• Long-burning furnaces of industrial production most often require a permanent connection to the electrical network for the operation of their nodes - forced air supply to the combustion chambers, various sensors and relays, a water heating flow pump (if used);
• Long-burning stoves are much more picky about the quality of the wood mass put into the furnace - excessively damp firewood cannot support slow smoldering, which means that the system will not receive pyrolysis gas for the main combustion;
• The overall dimensions of pyrolysis-type heaters are slightly larger than standard ones, since there are twice as many combustion chambers in the design. And in comparison with gas or electric systems, space for fuel storage is also required;
• The impossibility of full automation of the heating process - it is necessary to put firewood into the firebox by hand;
• A technologically complex scheme for arranging water heating - too cooled liquid in the heat exchanger is quite capable of supercooling the combustion chamber and extinguishing it. This is overcome by using bypasses that partially mix the cooled liquid with the already heated one.

With the same general technological device, long-burning furnaces differ in the material from which the body is made. He is:

• cast iron - the standard advantages of cast iron stoves, such as a fairly quick warm-up and a relatively long uniform release of accumulated heat into the room;
• steel - very fast heating and the fastest possible transfer of heat into the room, but rapid cooling;
• brick - the most classic version with all the advantages of brick ovens, with maximum heat accumulation, very long and uniform transfer of it to the surrounding space.

Important! Modern pyrolysis boilers and furnaces can be equipped with additional functional elements, such as semi-automatic fuel loading, sensors, automatic temperature controllers, etc. Such additions are very effective and useful, but they greatly increase the cost of the units.

The market presents various models of long-burning stoves, the design of which has additional functionality. Such an “add-on” can be a hob, a wood-burning “storage-dryer”, a firebox with aesthetic glass doors - such a stove will look like an attractive fireplace.

Do-it-yourself gas furnace

Despite the apparent complexity of the pyrolysis technology and the scheme of operation of long-burning furnaces, it is quite possible to arrange heating at home with such a unit with a home-made metal case. To do this, you will need to have the skills to work with metal, a welding machine and similar construction "wisdom".

The simplest option (and the cheapest) would be to use a finished metal frame, or rather a container, for the manufacture of such a furnace: a fuel barrel or an iron gas cylinder is quite suitable. You can also weld the body yourself from a pipe cut of the required length and diameter. A stove made from such raw materials will be far from aesthetic, but fully functional and suitable for heating a greenhouse, garage or workshop. And thanks to its small size and lightness, such an oven can be quite easily moved from one place to another - a "mobile version of the oven."

Thus, for the manufacture of a gas-generating metal stove on its own, the following materials will be required:

• a steel sheet of sufficient size to allow the disk to be cut with a diameter equal to the diameter of the hull;
• metal profile from which the pressure piston will be made;
• firebox door (may be purchased from a building market or hand-welded from a metal sheet);
• a metal pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length equal to the height of the furnace body with 15 cm of stock - with its help, an air duct for the pressure piston is made;
• a metal pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of at least five meters is the basis for the manufacture of a chimney.

Installation of a self-made long-burning stove requires accuracy and the correct sequence of actions:

• Hull preparation. If the base is a barrel, then you should simply remove the lid, and if the cylinder is, then you need to carefully cut off the upper part with the help of a grinder (the lid of the unit will be made of it). When cutting into a balloon, it is advisable to fill in water for stability and to prevent overheating. If the body is self-welded, then the usual precautions should be observed when welding.

Important! When making a body from an old cylinder, special care should be taken - before starting work, be sure to make sure that it is completely empty!

• Installation of supports. Simply put, prepared metal legs must be welded to the body. They should provide the body with an even and stable position;
• Piston feeder. The manufacture of this clamping piston is reduced to cutting a circle from sheet metal along the inner diameter of the body (slightly less for free play). If the body has a square section, then a piston of the corresponding shape is similarly made;
• The center of the piston is cut in a circle with a diameter equal to the diameter of the duct. This pipe is welded to the piston. In the prepared design, the tube should protrude 0.15 m above the edge of the body - if more, then it should be cut with a grinder;

• Trimmings of metal profiles are welded to the lower surface of the piston to ensure a tighter fit of the logs and sufficient air access to them;
• Unit cover. For a barrel, its lid is used, for a cylinder - a cut top, for a self-welded case, the lid is cut from a steel sheet according to the diameter of the case. A hole is cut in the cover for the air duct and handles are welded to it so that it can be conveniently removed for fuel loading;
• Weld the hinges and install the ash pan door;
• Cut a hole for the chimney pipe and weld it in the upper part of the unit body;
• Mount dampers in the air pipe and chimney for draft control - they will serve as regulators of heat generation activity and operating time without additional fuel loading;
• Insulate the chimney pipe to prevent the formation of condensate in it and cover its top with a protective hood made of galvanized steel.

Important! You can heat a house with the help of a home-made gas-generating furnace not only by making it out of metal, but also by building a more classic version of brick. This option is somewhat more complicated, since the two-chamber structure must be laid out with brickwork. Otherwise, all recommendations for configuring a metal gas generating furnace are suitable.

Initial ignition of a homemade unit

To start a homemade oven, follow these steps:

• pull the piston out of the stove;
• tightly lay firewood in the firebox - you can load the fuel as much as possible to a level just below the chimney opening;
• we cover the top of the logs with small chips moistened with fire liquid, or paper sheets;

• insert the piston into place;
• close the lid;
• set fire to a piece of paper or rags and throw it into the furnace through the air duct;
• after 15-20 minutes, when the firewood flares up, close the chimney valve - this will stop the burning of firewood and they will begin to smolder, producing pyrolysis gas.

As can be seen from all of the above, long-burning stoves for a summer residence or a private house are the best solution in terms of organizing autonomous heating. It is convenient, economical, efficient and environmentally friendly. In addition, if you have certain skills in building and working with metal, it is quite possible to equip your own home with a home-made gas-generating furnace, which will significantly reduce initial costs.

Long burning solid fuel stoves are becoming more and more popular. This is not surprising - ceteris paribus, such a furnace is able to operate on one load of fuel for a much longer time than its conventional counterparts.

At the same time, a long-burning stove can be fired with wood, coal, and various waste products from the woodworking industry. An additional advantage of the unit in question is the possibility of self-assembly.

1. High rates of efficiency.
2. Long work on one bookmark of fuel.
3. The possibility of automating the operation of the furnace.
4. High efficiency with excellent performance.

Long-burning furnaces are devoid of almost all the shortcomings of their conventional counterparts. In fact, in such units, the fuel does not burn, but slowly smolders, which allows you to increase the life of the stove on one tab of fuel.

As a result, the owner has much more free time - during operation, the oven does not require special control and constant monitoring.

Proceed to self-assembly of a long-burning stove. Start by preparing the necessary fixtures.

Work set

1. Metal barrel. A 200 liter barrel is best suited. The container must have sufficiently thick walls. Check that the drum has no signs of corrosion or other significant damage. Instead of a barrel, you can use a piece of thick-walled pipe of a suitable size. Also, the furnace body can be made of sheet steel.
2. Steel pipe. You will need to cut it into two segments of different lengths.
3. Channel.
4. Steel hammer.
5. Various measuring devices.
6. Mallet.
7. Hacksaw for metal.
8. Axe.
9. Red brick.
10. Steel sheet.
11. building mix.
12. Apparatus for welding and electrodes.

Kiln Making Guide

Set yourself up in advance that the work of making the oven will be quite dirty and noisy. Therefore, the oven is best assembled on the street, in a garage, workshop or other suitable place. Living quarters are definitely not suitable for such work.

Also, make sure that there is an opportunity to connect to the mains at the place of work.

First step

Prepare the barrel for making the body. Cut off the top of the container. The Bulgarian will help you with this. Instead of a grinder, you can use an autogen or another suitable cutter. Cut carefully and accurately, the cut off part will be used in the future.

In the absence of a barrel, make the case from a different material. For example, you can take a piece of pipe with a large diameter. Weld a round bottom made of steel with a thickness of 6 mm or more to it. If desired, the bottom can be made square - this will allow you to install the stove without welding additional supports.

Weld 4 legs to the bottom of the case. They can be made from rebar scraps, channel bars or other suitable materials.

Second step

Cut out a circle from a sheet of steel. Its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the stove body. In this circle, cut another circle to place the pipe. The optimal pipe diameter is 100 mm.

Weld a piece of pipe to the cut steel circle. The length of this pipe should be 150-200 mm longer than the height of the boiler body.

Third step

Weld the sections of the channel from the bottom of the resulting steel "pancake". They must be of such length that they can be freely placed inside the case. In total, weld 4 pieces at an equal distance along the diameter of the steel circle.

In the future, thanks to these channels, the loaded fuel will be pressed down and consumed as efficiently as possible.

Fourth step

Make a lid for the oven. At this stage, the top of the barrel cut off earlier will come in handy. If the oven is made from a pipe or other materials, the cover will have to be made independently from a steel sheet.

In the lid, cut a hole for the pipe previously welded to the “pancake”.

Fifth step

Cut a hole in the barrel body for loading fuel. Attach the door to the hole. You can make it yourself or buy it in a specialized store. Do not forget to weld the handle to the homemade door.

Below the hole in the firebox, make another hole a little smaller and also complete it with a door. Through the bottom hole you can remove the remnants of burnt fuel.

At this point, your homemade solid fuel stove is almost ready. It remains only to equip the foundation for it and connect the chimney.

Arrangement of the foundation for installing the furnace

In the process of heating the furnace, its body will heat up to very high temperatures, so the base for installing the unit must be as resistant as possible to such conditions.

The finished furnace weighs relatively little, so it is not necessary to deepen the foundation much. However, at the same time, the base must be strong and fireproof.

The procedure for arranging the foundation:

• prepare a small recess;
• lay out the bottom of the pit with a brick in one layer;
• pour cement mortar over the brickwork.

Installation of a flue pipe

Any stove, the principle of operation of which is based on the combustion of any fuel, needs a chimney arrangement.

The chimney can be made from an ordinary metal pipe with a diameter of 150 mm. This is the most optimal size. With a larger diameter, the thrust will be excessively strong, which will negatively affect the efficiency of the heating unit. With a smaller diameter, the chimney may simply not be able to cope with its task.

First, a small straight piece of pipe is welded to a pre-prepared hole in the barrel body. It is important that its length is greater than the diameter of the unit body.

The main part of the chimney is usually made curved. It is undesirable for the bend to exceed 45 degrees. Try to assemble the chimney with the least number of bends.

In places where the chimney crosses various building elements, equip insulation from refractory materials, for example, from asbestos.

Place a cap on the top edge of the chimney to keep out debris, snow, and other precipitation.

Make a collapsible chimney - it will be easier to clean it.

Reflector device

During operation, a long-burning metal furnace will heat up very strongly. Therefore, it is better to equip it with a protective screen, especially if the stove is placed in a small room.

If the reflector is made of brick, it will contribute to some increase in the efficiency of the furnace.

The metal cools down at about the same rate as it heats up. A brick screen laid around the furnace will accumulate heat during the operation of the heating unit and, for a certain time, give the accumulated energy to the surrounding space even after the completion of the furnace furnace.

Usually the furnace is lined on three sides, the back wall is equipped as desired, there is no need to lay out the upper wall.

There will be little point in arranging a protective screen if you plan to install the stove not directly in the heated room, but in a separate boiler room.

How to fire up the oven?

A variety of fuels are suitable for a long-burning furnace.

First, it is coal and wood. It is important that the firewood has a low moisture level.

Secondly, the furnace of such a furnace can be carried out using a variety of waste and processed products from the woodworking industry. For example, pellets are well suited.

For the manufacture of pellets, you can use almost any organic mass: straw, onion and garlic husks, sawdust, wood chips, cones, nut shells, citrus peels, bark, sunflower husks and many other materials. Pellets are produced by dry pressing of raw materials at elevated temperatures.

Important technical details

To make your homemade stove as safe and efficient as possible, remember the following simple guidelines and follow them when carrying out stove assembly activities:

Before putting the oven into continuous operation, try several different operating modes. As a result, you can choose the best option and use the stove with maximum efficiency and economy.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself long-burning furnaces