Mistakes when installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom. Installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom: install it yourself in the bathroom, video

A heated towel rail installed in the bathroom not only drys clothes, but also creates a favorable microclimate that prevents the formation of unpleasant odors, mildew and dampness. Today, the market for this plumbing equipment is overcrowded with models with different design solutions and functions. From this article you will learn how to correctly connect a heated towel rail to a hot water riser. A diagram and detailed description of this plumbing equipment is also in this publication.

Design features

A water heated towel rail can be in various configurations. The simplest among them is a coil that connects to a common hot water supply system. Typically, this option was provided in Soviet-built houses. In relatively new buildings, it is possible to connect a heated towel rail to a hot water riser (diagram below) via a separate outlet. This allows you to install this equipment of various modifications - from the classic U-shaped heated towel rail to the popular “ladder”.

Most often, they prefer the latter option: housewives have already appreciated its convenience in everyday use and functionality. The ladder heated towel rail is connected using the following elements:

• Valves for shutting off water.
• Water circulation system - supply and return pipelines.
• Stopper plug.
• Air bleed valve (during installation, the Mayevsky valve is located on top).
• A bracket designed to be mounted on a wall.

Varieties

How is the heated towel rail connected to the hot water riser? The installation diagram depends on the type of device. Today there are three types of this plumbing equipment on the market: water, electric and combined. Let's look at them in more detail.

Water

This option has been known to us since the times of the USSR, when such equipment was installed in all bathrooms. Such models remain the most popular to this day. In this case, the heated towel rail is connected to the hot water riser (the diagram will help you do this correctly) or to the heating system.

Valves are installed on the device itself, with the help of which the water is shut off during replacement. These models are usually made of stainless steel, brass and copper. And most importantly, they have a low cost.

Electrical

This model is used if there is no possibility of connecting a water heated towel rail. There are two main options - wall and floor. The first of them has the most varied design and is used in small rooms. Having given preference to this option, special attention must be paid to calculate in advance the approximate costs of electricity. In this case, the connection diagrams for the heated towel rail may be as follows:

• Open - uses a plug and socket.
• Closed - the wiring is laid into the wall structure.

Main features of electric heated towel rails:

• Often such devices are equipped with temperature control.
• They can be installed not only in the bathroom, but also in other rooms.
• Thanks to a variety of design solutions, you can choose a model that fits perfectly into the design of the room.

Combined

This model combines the properties of electrical and water equipment, but in design they are close to water models. This plumbing equipment flows hot water and also has heating elements that allow it to function even when the heating is turned off. Unlike conventional models, such a heated towel rail will cost several times more.

Tools and materials

To connect the heated towel rail to the riser, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Heated towel rail.
• Brackets required to mount the device.
• Polypropylene pipelines.
• Polypropylene fittings and couplings.
• Knife for cutting propylene.
• Welding machine.
• Ball valves - 2 or 3 pieces.

Main stages

Connecting a ladder heated towel rail or any other type is done as follows:

1. Dismantling the old device.
2. Replacing the riser.
3. Installation of ball valves and bypass (jumper).
4. Welding of polypropylene pipelines.
5. Installation and subsequent connection of a heated towel rail.

Dismantling

Sometimes, before connecting a new heated towel rail, it is necessary to dismantle the old one. Currently, there are two main schemes for connecting an old-style heated towel rail:

• Modern devices.
• Old style coils.

Dismantling of a modern structure

If modern equipment has been installed correctly, it will not be difficult to replace it. It is important that the new plumbing fixture is similar to the old one and has the same dimensions at the centers of the connecting pipes.

The new equipment must coincide with the center of the connecting pipes. It is necessary to remove the heated towel rail, which has already served its purpose, and then install a new one on the mating parts of the connectors, connect it to the system and fix it on the wall.

Removing the old coil

It is much more difficult to replace the old Soviet coil. In this case, a heated towel rail with a side connection is installed together with the replacement of the riser. In this case, it can be partial (in your apartment) or full. However, it is not practical to replace part of the old pipeline; it is advisable to completely replace the riser. To do this, you will need to negotiate with the neighbors below and above so that they can connect a new riser. This is quite often practiced, since it is very dangerous to leave old pipes in the ceiling.

Replacing the riser

Once all issues have been agreed upon, the water supply will need to be turned off. In most cases, this procedure is carried out jointly with the service organization. Next, using a grinder, the riser is cut out along with the coil: first in your own apartment, then in neighboring ones. Then you need to cut threads on the pipeline at the lower and upper neighbors, connect the pipes and introduce them into your bathroom through the ceilings.

Jumper installation

The jumper is a kind of lifesaver in unforeseen situations. Its installation is optional, but highly desirable. So, for example, a leak has formed at the connection points of the heated towel rail, which is becoming more intense every minute. And there is absolutely no time to call and wait more than an hour for their arrival.

So, in order not to depend on such situations, they install a bypass. Externally, it looks like an ordinary section of pipeline. To install it, ordinary ball valves are mounted on the ends of the heated towel rail, with the help of which you can shut off the flow of water if necessary.

Water heated towel rail: side connection

This design option allows you to install plumbing equipment in a standard riser for a heated towel rail or in an existing hot water supply network. In other words, it does not require the preparation of additional drainage. However, water heated towel rails with side connections have one small drawback - the presence of welded elements. But with proper quality plumbing equipment, this model will last a long time.

When connecting this device, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• Correspondence of pipeline diameters.
• Center spacing is the distance between the outlet and inlet holes.

It is allowed to make a lateral connection to the “ladder” heated towel rail using water couplings. In this case, it is forbidden to switch from pipelines with a larger diameter to pipes with a smaller cross-section, as this can lead to an increase in pressure in the device, which will cause leaks or even rupture of welded joints.

In addition, water heated towel rails with side connections are installed in situations where it is planned to cover water pipes with tiles. During the installation process, it is necessary to ensure reliable waterproofing of the pipeline and the connected device. For this purpose, gaskets and couplings are used, which are tightened using the appropriate diameter.

When installing a heated towel rail with a side connection, it is important to remember that the water supply is carried out under pressure; accordingly, the connection points must withstand sudden changes and strong water supply pressure.

How to connect correctly?

It is necessary to install equipment in the bathroom in accordance with accepted standards. Thus, the connection diagram of the heated towel rail to the riser must meet the requirements of SNiP 2-04-01-85. A similar design is connected to the heating system in private houses that are equipped with an individual heating system.

In multi-apartment buildings, it is more expedient to carry out installation in full accordance with the design, if necessary - to a separate riser. This approach is completely justified, because the central heating system functions only in the cold season, and the water supply is constant.

The connection principle is not affected by the type of heated towel rail: it is important to properly ensure supply and drainage. As a result, there will be a regular supply of water. Depending on the design features, the following connection methods are possible:

• Top connection device.
• Heated towel rail with bottom connection.
• At the bottom of the plumbing fixture.
• Diagonal connection (used for “ladders”).

Thus, the connection diagram of the heated towel rail to the riser directly depends on the installation conditions and type of structure.

Basic moments

To connect any equipment in the bathroom, you must have professional skills. Since errors in measurements of a few millimeters can lead to big troubles and problems with operation. If there is a need to install a heated towel rail, you should contact an experienced specialist.

It is important to take into account the features and subtleties of the work:

• Carrying out accurate measurements.
• Determining the location of the structure.
• Availability of couplings, fittings, brackets and other additional parts.
• Selecting a connection method.

Installation is one of the most difficult plumbing jobs. Therefore, if you are not sure, there is no need to tempt fate and try to complete the installation yourself. The consequences can be very different: from banal leaks of pipelines covered with ceramic tiles to damage to the tiles during the process of hanging brackets.

Before starting work, it is important to decide whether you are capable of such work or not. Even if you decide not to do it yourself, you will at least know the installation sequence, which will allow you to control the quality of installation of hired specialists.

Hiring professionals is the most correct and balanced decision, so you will not only save time and nerves, but also get an excellent result. Drying clothes quickly will become a pleasant reality, towels will be fresh and dry, and the bathroom will be comfortable.

The bathroom is a very important place for every modern apartment, because in this room not only all sanitary and hygienic needs of a person are satisfied, but also washing and sometimes drying clothes. Due to high humidity, a complex microclimate is formed inside the bathroom, which has a negative impact on the decoration of walls, ceilings or floors, the condition of furniture and plumbing fixtures.

To make the bathroom warm and comfortable for washing, and for laundry to dry faster, a heated towel rail is installed on one of the walls of the room. In this article we will tell you how to properly connect a heated towel rail to a heating or hot water supply system.

What is a heated towel rail?

A heated towel rail is an additional heating device for the bathroom, which heats the room to an acceptable temperature. Its design is quite simple; it consists of a curved pipe, fixed with the help of special brackets on the wall of the bathroom. It performs the following functions:

Note! A heated towel rail is a curved metal pipe that is attached to the wall in the bathroom. Metal is a good conductor, so it perfectly transfers heat to the surrounding space. Thanks to this, the inside of the bathroom becomes warmer and more comfortable.

Types of heated towel rails

Before connecting a heated towel rail to the heating system, you must select the appropriate model. Plumbing stores have a huge assortment of bathroom coils. They differ in the material from which they are made, shape, pipe diameter, connection method and price. But the most important characteristic is the type of coolant that is used to heat it. There are the following types of heated towel rails:

Please note that from the point of view of operation, the most reliable models are water models of heated towel rails. They work reliably throughout their entire service life and rarely break down. However, their functioning depends on the presence or absence of hot water in the pipes. The electric coil is warm, even the heating is turned off.

How to choose a coil?

- a routine operation that even an inexperienced master can handle. Before starting installation, it is important to correctly determine the appropriate device model. When choosing, you need to consider the following characteristics of the device:

Please note that to successfully install a coil in a bathroom, you must accurately determine the appropriate model. Maximum attention should be paid to the diameter of the heated towel rail pipes and the distance between the connection points. If these parameters do not correspond to the connection location, you will have to use adapters for connection, which often cause leaks.

Connection technology

The connection diagram for a heated towel rail to the hot water supply is quite simple, so you can cope with this task without involving a third-party technician. During installation, the coil is built into the overall heating or water supply system and becomes an integral part of it, so its installation must be approached very responsibly. This operation is performed in the following order:

Please note that if the coil model is of the water type and runs on central heating, then it is recommended to replace or repair the heated towel rail when the heating problem ends. If work has to be done during the heating season, in order to shut off your riser, you must contact the management company.

Installation errors

Experienced plumbers believe that the diagram for connecting a heated towel rail to a hot water riser is so simple and clear that even a non-professional craftsman can cope with its implementation. However, during installation problems may still arise that affect the operation of the equipment. The fact is that water is supplied to the coil pipes under pressure, which is why all connection points are subjected to heavy load. Most often, malfunctions during the operation of a heated towel rail occur for the following reasons:

Important! Connecting a heated towel rail to the hot water supply system in apartment buildings is usually carried out directly to the common riser according to the design. The working pressure inside the coil is at least 6 atmospheres.

Video instruction

Currently, there is a catastrophic situation with unqualified interference in the operation of general house systems, in particular, when installing or altering heated towel rails (HS) connected to hot water supply risers.

This article describes the principles of operation of the PS, provides examples of both competent connection and initially non-working or unstable options with an explanation of the reasons for their inoperability.

I’ll make a reservation that the article will talk about relatively new houses in which heated towel rails are connected to the same hot water supply riser, from which the hot water supply to apartments comes. But in some houses (the overwhelming percentage of the secondary housing stock) there is a separate hot water recirculation riser for heated towel rails. Or the riser of heated towel rails is powered by central heating, i.e. PSs do not work in summer. The topic of this article does not relate to such houses.

All diagrams and photos enlarge when you click on them.

A little history, old types of PS.

Just twenty years ago, the substation “from the developer” was a monolithic riser pipe, bent in the shape of the letter P or M.

Figure 1: U-shaped substation, which is part of the riser A.

Figure 2: M-shaped substation, which is part of the riser.

Despite its unsightly appearance, this type of substation had undeniable advantages: it was constantly hot, did not introduce any noticeable hydraulic resistance and did not allow residents to disrupt the operation of the hot water supply (DHW) riser.

However, time passed, and residents in the old housing stock, making repairs, exchanged the old and ugly PS for a new and shiny one. In a good situation it turned out like this:

Figure 3: New PS, which is part of the riser, a competent replacement.

The diameter of the PS corresponds to the diameter of the riser, the connection is made without narrowing and without shut-off valves (taps).

If things go wrong, like this:

Figure 4: New PS, which is part of the riser, an illiterate replacement.

Four extra narrowings appeared in the riser from the fittings used:

Figure 5: Internal cross-section of a fitting for metal-polymer pipes.

But it can be much worse:

Figure 6: The new PS, which is part of the riser, is an absolutely ignorant replacement.

In addition to the narrowings already mentioned above, shut-off valves have been added. When any of them is blocked, the circulation in the riser stops completely, the pressure in the apartments following the supply direction drops down to zero (water can somehow flow from the return line), the riser cools down in the absence of water supply, and when opening the mixer it takes a long time to drain cold water .

Installation of shut-off and control valves (taps) on risers is strictly prohibited!

Bends from the hot water riser for heated towel rails.

Over time, developers began to use more modern technologies and, instead of a terrible bent pipe, began to make two branches from the riser to connect the substation at the choice of the residents themselves. However, unfortunately, neither the type, nor the height of these bends from the floor, nor the distance between them are standardized in any way. This leads to massive problems when connecting the PS, which will be discussed below.

Figure 7: Branches from the riser, unbiased and unabridged bypass.

Figure 8: Branches from the riser, narrowed bypass.

Figure 9: Branches from the riser, offset unabridged bypass.

There is always a bypass between the branches - a section of pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the riser or 1 step less.

The bypass at the heated towel rail solves several problems:

• Maintaining normal circulation speed throughout the hot water (HW) riser. Forced circulation in the riser ensures the supply of uniformly hot water (according to standards - 60 degrees) to any apartment, on any floor, regardless of its distance from the start of supply to the riser.
• Only part of the total flow (water) passes through one substation, the other part goes by, retaining more heat for the next bathrooms. After all, one or two dozen heated towel rails can operate from one riser.
• It is possible to completely turn off the substation or regulate its temperature by residents without affecting the rest of the apartments (the latter requires the installation of an additional control valve on one of the outlets, since it is impossible to regulate anything using a ball valve).

Let's talk about physics. Gravity pump in substation.

If the performance of the PS with a narrowed or displaced bypass still somehow fits into the heads of plumbers who think in terms of “it will push or not,” then a scheme without a displaced bypass and without narrowing the riser plunges them into complete stupor: “All the water passes by the towel! It won’t leak there! This can never work!

However, the PS works great with this connection! Its functionality is based on a “gravity pump”:

improves the circulation of the substation, increasing the pressure of the “gravity pump” in the substation itself.

a.) Slows down circulation throughout the riser (the temperature of hot water drops from water collection points in apartments).

The circulation according to this scheme can be improved by local widening of the undisplaced (axial) bypass in the area of ​​the upper outlet to the substation. A photo of such a bypass is shown below.

Acceptable options for the implementation of scheme No. 1.

.

Figure 14: Lateral connection, example of correct execution.

The vertical substation is located entirely between the taps, no conditions for the operation of the circuit are violated.

Figure 15: Lateral connection, example of acceptable design.

The top of the PS is located above the upper outlet. It will be necessary to bleed air from the substation after turning off the water.

Scheme No. 2: bottom connection.

Less effective than the lateral one, it has its advantages and disadvantages.

Figure 16: PS ladder connection operating on natural circulation, without narrowing and without bypass displacement. Bottom connection.

Figure 17: Connection of a PS ladder operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a bypass offset. Bottom connection.

Figure 18: Connection of a PS ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowing of the bypass. Bottom connection.

Website author's opinion:

In my opinion, the operation of circuits No. 16-18 may be unstable with lower supply through the riser. Or even completely impossible.

Especially schemes No. 17-18. Therefore, I would not recommend using these schemes, especially with lower supply through the riser. Or when the supply through the riser is unknown.

Also, in my opinion, these schemes practically do not use pressure. And they use only forced circulation. Therefore, I personally don’t like bottom-to-bottom PS connections at all. And I don’t advise anyone to use them only with gravitational circulation. And use only a lateral or diagonal “top-bottom” connection. And the “bottom-to-bottom” connection, from my point of view, to obtain a guaranteed result can only be used with purely forced circulation, in private houses and apartments with individual autonomous heating.

Advantages of the scheme:

Works in any direction of supply in the riser.

The ability to run pipes somewhere hidden under the bathroom, without stripping the walls.

Disadvantages of the scheme:

It is necessary to bleed air through the Mayevsky valves.

Less efficient compared to lateral or diagonal connections.

The upper outlet of the riser with an offset or narrowed bypass must be below the connection point to the substation. This guarantees the independence of the PS operation from the feed direction.

The lower outlet must be below the PS in all variants of this scheme.

It is necessary to observe the slope of the supply pipes (the direction is shown in the figure)

3 - 5 mm per meter.

There should be no “humps” (completely unacceptable, air will accumulate in them and
circulation will stop) or failures on horizontal routes (allowed only in
within small limits, deep “holes” will air the supply line to the substation).

The diameter of the pipes to ensure maximum circulation is preferably at least 3/4”
(32mm for PPR), ball valves – at least 3/4”. Application of smaller pipes and taps
cross-section is allowed only if the pipes leading to the substation are of short length, but in this case uneven heating may become noticeable
PS - hotter on top, colder below.

It is highly desirable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. Besides what it is
a prerequisite for embedding PPr pipes into walls, such insulation

improves circulation and the functioning of the PS.

It is strictly prohibited to install any taps on the bypass - this is vandalismand harm to oneself and neighbors. Overlapping or excessive narrowing of the bypass:

a.) Slows down circulation throughout the riser (the temperature of hot water drops at the water intake points of apartments).

B.) Radically worsens the water pressure in all apartments located further in the direction of supply. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - even to the vandal himself. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one pipe size, its throughput becomes approximately half as large.

C.) Does not significantly improve the efficiency of the above scheme.

Acceptable options for the implementation of scheme No. 2.

Figure 19: Bottom connection, example of acceptable design 1.

All bends are below the substation, no conditions are violated.

Figure 20: Bottom connection, example of permissible design 2.

The upper outlet is higher than the bottom of the substation.

Please note that this immediately imposes a restriction on the direction of feeding - only from above!
With a bottom feed, this connection is unstable.

Scheme No. 3: lateral and diagonal connections with a narrowed or offset bypass.

The vast majority of plumbers believe that there must be a narrowing between the bends on the substation - otherwise nothing will work. Firstly, this is not true (see diagrams Nos. 1 and 2), and secondly, in the case of lower water supply in the riser and poor circulation, the narrowing prevents the heated towel rail from working until it cools completely, despite the seemingly normal connection. Therefore, whenever possible, it is worth striving to ensure that the diameter of the bypass is equal to the diameter of the riser.

Figure 21: Connection of a PS ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowing of the bypass.
Lateral connection.

Figure 22: Connection of a PS ladder operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a bypass offset. Lateral connection.

Figure 23: Connection of a PS ladder, operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a narrowing of the bypass. Diagonal connection.

Figure 24: Connection of a PS ladder operating on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with a bypass offset. Diagonal connection.

Note that the supply direction in the riser is now clearly indicated as top.
It is strictly not recommended to use these options for bottom feed., the reasons will be described below.

Disadvantages of this scheme:

Stable operation is guaranteed only for the top feed.

The advantages of this scheme:
It works unambiguously and stably with the top feed in the riser.
There is no need to bleed air from the substation after turning off the water.
The distance from the riser is arbitrarily large.

Conditions for the circuit to work:

Let us remind you once again that with bottom feed, the narrowing/displacement between the bends interferes with the operation of the PS up to its complete inoperability! With top supply, it is permissible to narrow the bypass by a maximum of 1 step from the diameter of the riser. Narrowing the biased bypass is never required.

The lower outlet of the riser must be below the bottom of the substation, and the upper outlet of the riser must be above the top of the substation.

It is necessary to observe the slope of the supply pipes (the direction is shown in the figure) of at least 3 mm per meter, but better than 30 mm per meter.

There should be no “humps” (completely unacceptable, air will accumulate in them and circulation will stop) or dips on horizontal routes (allowed only within small limits, deep “holes” will interfere with circulation).

The diameter of the pipes to ensure maximum circulation is preferably at least 3/4” (32mm for PPR), ball valves – at least 3/4”. The use of pipes and taps of a smaller cross-section is allowed only if the length of the pipes leading to the substation is short.

It is advisable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. In addition to the fact that this is mandatory when embedding PPR pipes into the walls, such insulation will improve the performance of the substation in certain cases (sagging pipes or “holes” in them).

It is strictly prohibited to install any taps on the bypass - this is vandalismand harm to oneself and neighbors. Overlapping or excessive narrowing of the bypass:

a.) Slows down the circulation throughout the riser (the temperature of the hot water drops).

B.) Radically worsens the water pressure in all apartments located further in the direction of supply. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - even to the vandal himself. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one pipe size, its throughput becomes approximately half as large.

C.) Does not significantly improve the efficiency of the above scheme, and with a lower feed, even on the contrary, it interferes with the operation of the substation.

Why doesn't my PS work?

Let's look at typical PS connection errors (the section will be gradually updated with links to real examples).

Figure 25: Lateral connection, example of WRONG execution 1.

Figure 26: Bottom connection, example of WRONG execution 2.

The PS is located below the lower branch. The water that has cooled in the substation and dropped down ends up in a trap formed by the lower part of the substation and the pipe (the stagnant zone - from the bottom of the substation to the level of the lower outlet), and is not pushed back into the riser, because lighter hot water presses on it from above.

A substation connected with such a violation operates until a certain height difference “lower outlet - bottom of the substation” is exceeded (the exact value is impossible to predict) - then the natural circulation in the substation stops.

Figure 27: Lateral connection, example of WRONG execution 3.

The upper pipe forms a loop in which air accumulates - circulation in the substation stops. Operation is possible if there is an air bleeder (automatic or Mayevsky) at the top point of the pipe.

Figure 28: Lateral connection, example of WRONG execution 4.

A combination of previous non-working cases, usually formed when trying to lay one pipe behind the ceiling and the second in the floor screed.

The upper pipe forms a loop in which air accumulates, and the water cooled in the substation ends up in a “sump” formed by the loop of the lower pipe and is not pushed back into the riser. Circulation in the PS stops.

Figure 29: Lateral connection, example of WRONG execution 5.

The performance of the side connection with an offset or narrowed bypass and BOTTOM supply critically depends on the circulation in the riser.

At low circulation speeds, the PS does not work, because in the lower outlet, due to displacement/narrowing, the pressure is greater than in the upper one - the circulation pump tends to supply water to the PS through the lower outlet, and the “gravity pump” inside the PS tends to lower the cooling water down. Mutually opposite flows inhibit each other and circulation in the substations stops.

If the riser has not yet been damaged by the neighbors, and there is a powerful circulation pump in the basement, then, as a rule, the pump “wins” and a circular circulation starts in the substation: hot water rises up along the left collector, and cooling water goes down through the right collector, gradually mixing with the hot water in the substation. left manifold through horizontal jumpers.
However, if someone puts, for example, a barbaric tap on the bypass, the circulation speed may drop so much that the substation stops working. Either it will work or not, depending on the time of day (different water intake from the riser).

The diagonal connection here is even worse than the side connection. There are fewer chances for a successful launch, because... the hydraulic resistance of the PS increases, which the pump has to overcome, but the resistance of the pump remains the same.

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When renovating a bathroom, you will have to decide whether to connect the heated towel rail yourself or involve professionals. This article contains recommendations for connecting a heated towel rail, and even if you do not do this yourself, the information received will help you control the installation process.

And in many cases this helps to seriously improve the quality of work!

Installation of heated towel rail

Installation of a heated towel rail: general information

Where do we connect?

The heated towel rail connection diagram provides two options for pipe insertion:

• To the heating system (no matter centralized or autonomous)
• To the hot water supply system

In most cases, the second option is preferable, since, firstly, there is hot water in the heating system only during the heating season - i.e. six months at best. At the same time, there is almost always hot water in the pipes.

Secondly, the process of connecting a heated towel rail to the heating system can only be carried out outside the heating season: in frosty weather no one will allow you to turn off the heating or drain the water from the pipes, since the consequences of this for the house can be truly catastrophic.

Connection method

Before connecting the heated towel rail, you need to decide on the method of connecting it. In most Soviet-built houses, the heated towel rail is a zigzag pipe on the bathroom wall, and if you plan to replace it, you will need to select a heated towel rail model of the appropriate diameter with a bottom connection.

Connected heated towel rail

• If the pipe diameter is less than 23 mm, the distance should be 35 mm or more
• If the pipe diameter is 40-50 mm, the minimum distance is 50 mm

Connection fittings

The connected heated towel rail must be checked for leaks by performing a test run. If everything is normal and there are no leaks, the device can be used.

Connecting an electric heated towel rail

Separately, you should consider the issue of connecting an electric heated towel rail. The most important step here is to correctly connect the device to the electrical network, which will avoid short circuits or fires.

Connecting an electric heated towel rail

For this it is mandatory:

• Grounding the heated towel rail
• Connecting the device through a residual current device (RCD, popularly called an “automatic machine”)

Note!

If you plan to connect an electric heated towel rail to an outlet located directly in the bathroom, you must install an outlet with a waterproof housing.

In other words, the socket must be “recessed” into the wall, and its hole must be closed with a special insulating cap.

If you carefully study all the information presented in this article, then most likely you should no longer have the question of how to properly install a heated towel rail. So you can definitely handle installing this device yourself!

Bottom connection 1: The most optimal, or rather ideal, connection of the LESENKA water heated towel rail to the hot water supply system is the bottom horizontal one. With this connection option, hot water circulates 100% in the heated towel rail, even with low pressure, and all bars, even in large heated towel rails, will be hot.

Diagonal connection 2: The ladder can also be connected diagonally - this method also works flawlessly for any size heated towel rail.

Side connection 3, 4: There are nuances here. We do not recommend connecting large heated towel rails over 100 cm in height with a side connection - one or two bottom bars may remain cold. If you need a heated towel rail more than 100 cm in height, then it would be more correct to choose a ladder with a universal connection and connect it to the side.

Do not underestimate the importance of correctly connecting water heated towel rails.

Here is one of the situations that our client told us about: Leonid Melnikov, Volgograd

Our house is already 10 years old, but since we moved into it, we have replaced heated towel rails almost once a year. Moreover, they installed water heated towel rails made of stainless steel - they seemed to be of good quality. But not even a year passed before they began to flow. Even if you choose heated towel rails with side connections from the expensive segment, this will not solve this problem.
Presumably, the issue is electrical corrosion. But it is not clear what the cause of this corrosion is. The salesperson at the store told me that electrical appliances should not be grounded through the water supply system. But I didn’t ground anything!
And the point here is definitely not the stray currents that they keep telling me about, because... they arise only in the ground if it is used as a conductive medium, for example, in the case of electrified railways. And corrosion of metal objects also occurs in the ground. So the beautiful phrase “stray currents” has nothing to do with the matter at all.
I read the rules for installation and use of heated towel rails from different manufacturers and learned that, according to them, in some cases heated towel rails should be grounded. In this case, it is necessary to determine how the water equipment is connected to the hot water supply system. It must be grounded if it is connected through a metal-plastic pipe. But if it’s through a steel pipe, it’s not necessary. The need for grounding in the case of metal plastic is explained by the presence of good conductivity of the aluminum layer inside the pipe and a break in the electrical circuit at the fitting connection point. Therefore, to avoid further leakage, it is necessary to ground the heated towel rail to the hot water supply riser!
I invited a plumber to come and he grounded the water heated towel rail, as indicated, to the riser. So far (no matter how I jinx it) there are no problems! We haven’t thought about replacing equipment for many years now. Out of curiosity, I asked the plumber what the problem was. He put forward several versions: either the fact is that modern houses do not have anode protection, or that one of the neighbors confused the working zero and grounding when connecting, for example, a washing machine. But who will figure it out now?
There is only one conclusion: in this case, the manufacturer is not to blame for the cause of the leak, so it is useless to change one company to another, you just need to connect the heated towel rail correctly!

The best option for connecting a water heated towel rail is a ladder

Video from Alexander Smolin's channel