Home Heating calculation Diesel stove for the tent. Camping stoves and heating a tent in winter and summer: criteria, types and methods, implementation

Diesel stove for the tent. Camping stoves and heating a tent in winter and summer: criteria, types and methods, implementation

You may be surprised, but the vigorous Russian winter successfully competes with the number and duration of outings of citizens into nature. better days summer and fishing and mushroom autumn. The beauty of the snow-covered landscapes is unique, winter fishing is uniquely romantic, and after a ski trip you feel especially invigorated and healthier. However, a heater or stove for a tent is vital for winter tourists and fishermen; They will also come in handy in the summer, when it suddenly gets cold or is caught in bad weather. This article is written about how, how and in what cases to heat a tent correctly and safely.

The most important

Camping cooking and heating devices are not always compatible in one device. Food on a camping trip is usually prepared outside or in the “hallway” of the tent, under the awning. A heating camp stove operates in a cramped room where, if it is tightly sealed, there may not be enough air for normal breathing. Cases of burning in tents are not very frequent, but they occur consistently. That's why a heating camp stove should be extremely economical even in places abundant in fuel– the less oxygen is spent on its combustion, the less likely it is to form carbon monoxide. The choice of fuel type is also important: it is best if, with a lack of oxygen, it simply goes out without releasing carbon monoxide (see below).

Another significant point is related to the same circumstances: the small volume, large heat losses of the room and the probable lack of oxygen in the air, as a result of which heating a tent according to heating technology is very significantly different from heating buildings and structures. 1-4 person tents are critical in this regard: 2-4 person tents may have less than 1 cubic meter per person. m. In 1-person and large group tents, there is most often over 2 cubic meters per inhabitant. m, but for a 1-person tent the ratio of the outer surface area to the internal volume is large.

In any case, it is impossible to hermetically close yourself in a tent: in the morning, from their own exhaled carbon dioxide, people will wake up broken, exhausted and little able to continue moving. However, molecular-kinetic (warm air flows) heating of a small room is ineffective if there are even the slightest cracks in it; simply, the heat is immediately blown out. Therefore, a heater for a tent for 1-4 inhabitants should operate primarily with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation, and soft, long-wave radiation; in physical terminology - far IR (which is closer to millimeter radio waves). Near hard IR (with the spectrum maximum closer to visible light) at low outside temperatures and in conditions of large heat losses in the room will burn the skin, cause a fire, but will not really warm you up. For large 6-20-person tents, this requirement is relaxed: they have a ratio of the heat-losing surface to the volume of the room that is several times smaller, and each sleeper emits approx. 60 W of heat, so heating a large tent can be almost entirely molecular kinetic.

Note as a consequence: A camp sauna-tent can be set up for an hour and a half even at minus 40, but those who want to lounge in a tent before lights out in shorts and a T-shirt will have to be disappointed - IR heating does not allow this. In general, if you want the comfort of home in nature, stay at home and watch a movie about strong guys surviving in impossible conditions. Or order a non-volatile eco-house in the forest - only 2-3 million USD for a 2-room 26 sq.m. m residential.

A special case is heating a tent while fishing in winter. The fact that the angler sits crouched is half the battle. It is also necessary that the holes do not freeze. But then the bottom and/or fastenings of the tent can get stuck to the ice so that you can’t get it off. Here again soft infrared comes to the rescue: its flow from the flashlight heater (see below) is directed obliquely down to the holes, and the residue reflected from the ice allows the fisherman not to become numb.

And in a very extreme, emergency situation - how to heat a tent in an extreme situation. For example, time is golden autumn. Warm up, let's go in sneakers, shorts and short sleeves, otherwise we'll get tired of the load and run out of steam. Suddenly there were clouds, the temperature suddenly dropped to zero, and snow began to fall; in the mountains this is possible even at the height of summer. While they were taking out and putting on warm clothes, someone showed signs of a cold and frostbite. You can’t go on like this, you need to set up camp and get treatment or call rescuers. While the tent was being set up, the victims got worse and new ones appeared. In such circumstances, the ability to build a heater from scrap materials, the ease and speed of its start-up, and the rate of heat release are of particular importance.

Methods and features

Let's get some money in advance, as they say. Heating a tent in winter or during a sharp cold snap without the danger of burning in it is possible. ways, as their availability and launch speed decrease:

Heat saving.
Catalytic chemical heating pads.
Using a tent such as a wigwam, tent or yaranga.
Using heat accumulators from improvised means.
Fire and chimney.
2-circuit heater on liquid fuel, see below.

Further, a camping heater can be located in a tent and consume oxygen from the air in it. The heat generation of such devices is usually high, the time to start and warm up the tent to an acceptable temperature does not exceed 5-10 minutes, so we will sort to increase the likelihood of burning or poisoning by fuel vapors:

Winter tent with standard stove - with correct use should relate to the previous one. list.
She, with a homemade camping stove.
Portable catalytic liquid fuel heater - if there is a lack of oxygen, catalysis fades, oxygen consumption stops, the fuel tank cools down, and fuel evaporation stops.
The same applies to gas - it works the same way, but in inexpensive models the gas continues to flow from the cylinder. For trips in the off-season, you need cylinders with summer and winter gas: summer gas does not stimulate catalysis in winter; winter is dangerous in summer.
Homemade alcohol burner - if there is a lack of oxygen, ethyl alcohol goes out without having time to release any significant amount of carbon monoxide.
Candle heater - paraffin candles go out from a lack of oxygen when carbon monoxide has already begun its effect. True, if you do not light them again, but breathe on the street, by the morning the symptoms of poisoning in a strong, hardy person disappear.
– very economical, can be quickly made from scrap materials, but consumes a lot of oxygen. On a hike, you can safely run the wood chipper in sufficiently ventilated shelters: a wigwam tent, a hut, under a canopy/canopy on a fallen tree, in a grotto/cave.

During a winter hike in remote areas, a fire in a tent can be more dangerous than incineration: If you lose your shelter, you can lose your life. Heaters that do not consume oxygen from the tent are fireproof if basic precautions are taken. "Oxygen" According to the degree of increasing fire danger, they are distributed in a different way:

Alcohol burner;
Homemade tent stove;
Candles;
Standard tent stove;
Wood chip stove;
Catalytic liquid fuel;
Catalytic gas.

As you can see, even the preliminary selection of a heater for a tent encounters contradictory conditions.

To find the optimum, in addition to your own experience and careful study of sources of adequate information, you also need to take into account the conditions of the hike:

1-2 days for the weekend to the place by road transport, which remains there until departure;
Winter fishing;
An overnight trip solo or in a group of up to 4 people - each person carries full luggage for themselves. Including the tent, because it is easier to maintain a positive and breathable atmosphere overnight in a single or double tent than in a 4-person tent;
The same thing, but in a large group - one carries a tent, the other a stove, and their luggage is distributed among the others;
Star Trek.

In the first case, the volume and weight of luggage of great importance They don’t, but safety is important, because children and green beginners will ask for it. Optimal choice– catalytic kerosene heater; in extreme cases (the car is frozen and won’t start) - 1-2 homemade wood chips, a supply of alcohol, an alcohol burner and a kit for a candle heater for general use, see below.

A portable catalytic gas heater is most suitable for fishing. If we get to the place by car, then it is better to throw a candle hand warmer into the trunk (see below); as a last resort - a heat-saving tent, a supply of alcohol and a homemade alcohol burner. The same set, plus a wood chipper for each person, is suitable for solo extreme sports enthusiasts and small groups.

Note: An experienced winter fisherman can, instead of an expensive burner that requires gas costs, use a tent fishing stove based on wood chips, which can be made at home using scrap materials in just a few minutes. However, then you need to know exactly the features of your tent, fishing in your favorite places and make a stove taking them into account. For example, about the stove for the popular fishing tent Sable, see the video below.

Video: homemade stove for a tent in 6 minutes

A large group usually spends the night in one tent: there are more than 2 cubic meters of air per head, and there is less surface area that loses heat than in a single tent. Then you also need to add a tent heater to the individual emergency kits; all of it together does not pull the backpack.

A star trek does not mean that the group goes straight to the bar of a star hotel. In a star hike, also known as a radial hike, a base camp is set up, from which 1-2 day routes around the surrounding area are made. Equipment for the base camp is delivered to the site either by transport or on foot by the vanguard of the group; He is also setting up the base. In any case, a camp duty officer remains at the base, so the fire safety requirements for the stove are reduced. It is even possible to equip a homemade tent with a homemade stove (see below). The man on duty heats it in the same mode in which catalytic heaters are used on a solo hike - in a small group (see below), and if necessary and there is enough fuel, he heats it during the day - there is enough air in the tent.

Note: since in a large group at least its leader (instructor) is experienced, then for hiking in places with a lack of fuel, instead of a tent stove you need to take a catalytic kerosene heater. It is much safer than gasoline (kerosene does not flare up and flares up for quite a long time, especially when low temperatures), a beginner with the intelligence of a bonobo chimpanzee can be taught to use it and control training can be carried out an hour before going out, and the fuel for a kerosene catalytic heater weighs less and takes up less volume than gas for the same time of the trip.

How to warm up

No oxygen consumption

We exclude catalytic chemical heating pads from consideration: they are expensive and provide little heat. You can use a heating pad to warm up a sleeping bag or balloon tent (see at the end). Just in case: a chemical warmer is a flatbread or a thing like a sausage, which to start it is bent until something crunches inside, or a protruding string is pulled. Then the components inside mix and the exothermic process begins. chemical reaction. If the chemical heating pad has cooled down, throw it away; it cannot be refilled.

Teplotent

Heat-saving awnings for tents were not popular in the days of “tarpaulin-rubber” tourism and remain so to this day, but in vain. After all, today the ideal material for heating tents - metallized plastic film - is easily available. PET film is also very durable: even with a Mares knife you can’t cut it very well, let alone pierce it with a random knot. When folded, the heat tent takes up almost no space and weighs practically nothing.

Firstly, a tent heat awning traps air heated by the tent. Secondly, it reflects back its very soft IR. In summer, in a tent under a warm awning, you can sleep on top of a sleeping bag almost everywhere except the Far North, in any weather. Just don’t make the awning like the one on the right in the picture: it’s only there because of precipitation. The awning should be cut to the shape of the tent with an indentation of approx. on all sides. 0.5 m and with the same gap between the lower edge of the awning and the ground. It is better to give more heat removal in front, approx. 1 m. Then in the “hallway” it will be possible to cook food in the wind, and the waste heat of a kerosene stove or stove will heat not the cosmic space, but the tent.

The heat tent is assembled by welding plastic with a soldering iron through Teflon film. It can also be easily repaired in field conditions: with threads, cord, wire, pins or just sharp knots.

Note: Supplying a tent with a heat awning increases the efficiency and duration of ANY method of heating it.

Into the Stone Age

Our ancestors weren’t fools if they survived then and reached civilization? A tent such as a wigwam, plague or yaranga (see figure on the right) retains heat very well and is absolutely safe in terms of fumes, because ventilated. You can heat it with anything, from a catalytic burner to a fire. Heating is optimal, soft infrared: the inclined walls reflect it onto the inhabitants. One condition: in order for the tent to stay positive, the heater must work all night. Disadvantage: if the heater is fiery (stove, fire), the top of the plague tent becomes covered in smoke. In winter, under the sleeping bags you need to lay beds made of spruce branches or, if there is no such or hay-straw, carry rolls of foam rubber with you. Not heavy, but cumbersome.

The best plague tents are Finnish Lavvu, but domestic models are almost as good as them. It’s easy to sew a winter tent-chum with your own hands. In this case, for insulation you need to use clothing (not linen) fleece with the fluffy side inward. A three-layer tent with padding polyester or thin foam insulation picks up moisture during a camping trip and day by day becomes heavier, swells and warms worse.

We are accumulating heat

Collecting heat from an outdoor tent fire is also the oldest method of heating on a camping trip. It is effective in places where there is enough wood fuel and there are stones of approx. into a fist made of dense heavy rocks: granite, gneiss, basalt, gabbro. The ideal option is a rounded moraine cobblestone. You will also need a cast iron cauldron (better) or a steel bucket with a lid. The technique for heating a tent using natural heat accumulators is as follows:

We collect stones to fill the dishes without the top and stack them in a pyramid;
We build a log house (well) or hut (house) fire around a pile of stones, see fig. right;
While dinner is being cooked and eaten, we add fuel and rake coals on the stones;
We place the bucket/cauldron on its side next to the burnt-out fire and use a stick to roll hot stones into it. There is no need to wrap them in foil, as advised in RuNet: a metal vessel will perfectly re-emit hard IR into soft one;
We place the container with stones level and, to avoid heat loss due to convection, fill the load with sand or dry earth;
Cover the container with a lid and hang it in a tent 0.5-1 m from the floor. Option (worse) – bet on 4-5 stones.

The hanging option heats the tent for up to 6 hours; with installation on the floor - 3-4 hours. In addition, the installed bucket/cauldron can be tipped over. To prevent hot stones from rolling around the tent, the lid must be secured with wire or (if available) with a standard latch.

Warmth - down the drain!

Winter heating of the tent with a fire and a pipe (see figure below) allows you to sleep on top of your sleeping bags at -30 outside. On YouTube you can find videos “exposing” the impossibility (neither more nor less) of this method. Indeed, it is not always applicable. Thus, the excess of the bottom of the tent above the air intake end of the pipe must be at least 0.7 m. The recommended 0.5 was probably taken as a result of thoughtless rounding. Further, fires come in fire, light and smoke varieties. In this case, you need a nodya fire (pos. a) or a roll-on (pos. b). Nodya can smolder all night, but it requires even logs from 1 m thick to an arm or thicker.

Finally, you need a thin-walled stainless steel pipe with a clearance diameter of 50-80 mm. Simple steel will either burn out or not transfer enough heat to the air; aluminum will melt. Wrapping a section of pipe in a fire with asbestos, as is advised in some places, is nonsense, it is also a heat insulator. Also, a pipe is needed at least 2-2.5 m long; then warm air can be supplied to the tent with a flexible hose. The pipe is assembled from elbows with locks. In general, installing a heater turns out to be quite cumbersome, but for a base camp, heating with a pipe and a fire may be an option that relieves the attendant from looking after the stove and does not require additional fuel costs.

With air separation

In a 2-circuit camping heater running on gasoline/kerosene/diesel (see figure on the right), the burner flame heats the heat exchanger, through which tent air is forced. 2-circuit heaters are safe in all respects, because... are placed outside and are very economical: 3 liters of diesel fuel is enough for continuous operation within 2-5 days. Disadvantages: high cost, bulkiness and energy dependence. They are used when a car remains at the base (it will need to be started periodically to recharge the battery) or in winter campsites with electricity.

"Oxygen"

Tent with complete stove

This is the most expensive, but also the safest option if you use the oven according to the instructions. Almost all manufacturers of hiking equipment produce winter tents with stoves, but according to user reviews, some specialization can be seen depending on the nature of the hike. Among domestic ones, the following are preferred:

Chum, Zima, Vyuga - for a multi-day hike or a large group hike with a base camp.
Penguin, UP (1,2,4) – for singles (UP1) or overnight trips in a group of up to 4 people.
Bullfinch, Bear, Stack - fishing.

The listed oven models are equipped optionally, i.e. You can buy a stove later. Among the domestic camping stoves, Dymok, Snegir (with a heat exchanger), Sogra, Windrose, Poshekhonka or Onego camping stove (Maslov stove) are suitable. The latter is available for making yourself, see the video below.

Video: do-it-yourself Onego tent stove

Stove in the tent

The danger of fumes from a homemade tent stove is quite high, so sometimes camp stoves are made according to the scheme with a heat exchanger (pos. 1a in the figure) and placed outside. The disadvantage of this scheme is the complex, heavy and bulky fireproofing in the tent, so it is better to make a heating stove for a camping trip with a remote afterburner, pos. 1b. For house stoves, this scheme is rarely used due to its technological complexity. For example, it is easier to increase the efficiency of a country potbelly stove by introducing a long horizontal elbow - a hog - into the chimney; In a tent, this approach, of course, is not applicable.

As a tent stove with a remote afterburner, it has a huge advantage: in it the temperature of the flue gases at the end of the chimney source is much lower than in others metal furnaces. As a result, reliable fireproof cutting of a pipe in a tent turns out to be much easier and more compact: it turns out that a piece of fireproof fabric from 35x35 cm with wire sewn into it or a flared stainless steel eyelet, pos. 3 in Fig. The gap between the grommet and the pipe is plugged with a rag made of the same non-flammable fabric (shown by the blue arrow).

It is impossible to cut from asbestos fabric: it generates a lot of carcinogenic dust. Typically, satin-weave fiberglass is used, but this is also not optimal - in the vicinity of a heated pipe, fiberglass becomes fragile over time and begins to gradually accumulate dust with glass micro-needles, which is also not at all useful. Best choice in this case, basalt fabric for body armor. It is heavier than fiberglass, but absolutely reliable and safe.

Drawings of a folding camp stove with a remote afterburner are given in pos. 2. Its “foldability” only seems relative: when folded (dimensions in parentheses), this stove allows you to load an 80-liter backpack with it in a standard way, i.e. a strong man in a group can carry both the stove and his luggage, and a separate stove porter is not needed. Minimum thickness stainless steel for this stove – 0.5 mm.

Note: when independently designing a camp stove for a tent, it is advisable to focus on the heating engineering of engineer Bystrov’s temporary stove.

Gas-gasoline

A catalytic heater for a winter tent produces soft infrared and consumes less oxygen than fiery ones, but still quite a lot. There is nothing you can do to keep it warm, the fuel needs an oxidizer. Therefore, they use camp heaters with catalytic afterburning twice a day: in the evening they are turned on for the period from setting up the tent until lights out; Be sure to turn it off at night! Then in the morning, the tent attendant (he gets up from sleep half an hour earlier than the others) turns the heater back on while he warms up breakfast. In a small tent, it is better to direct the IR flow obliquely from top to bottom; in 6 or more local areas, a floor heater with uniform radiation in all directions will be more effective, pos. 6 in Fig. For a fisherman's scarf, a mini heater-lantern, pos. 3.

Catalytic nozzles for cookers and stoves (item 1) are emergency, they eat up the oxygen in the tent very quickly. Gas heaters are more suitable for weekend camping and fishing; they are fireproof and using them does not require special experience. For a catalytic tourist heater for a hike of more than 2-3 days, it is better to take a kerosene one, see above. If you are hiking with a base camp and transporting the vanguard, it may be more convenient to use a panel heater (item 5), because You can cook 2 dishes on it at once. But in this case, you need to keep an eye out for the connecting fitting (red arrow in position 5): suddenly a flame appears there, you need to immediately close the cylinder valve and check the connecting hose. For a single extreme sports enthusiast who carries everything with him and can only rely on himself, a catalytic kerosene mini-heater with a hob, pos. 7.

The catalyst base – platinum or nickel – is of great importance for the reliability of a catalytic heater. In general, afterburners on platinum are less susceptible to the so-called. poisoning of the catalyst and are not prone to sudden failures, however, the chemical purity of the catalyst material and its microstructure are also important. Not cheap platinum “China” can fail at the most inopportune moment, but branded nickel can serve for years. Visually, you can get your bearings by the type of afterburner: if the burner looks like a solid surface (item 2) or a tiny button (item 3) and glows yellow-orange when in operation, it is probably platinum. If there is a rather large “bump” that heats up to a maximum of light red (pos. 4), then most likely the afterburner is nickel. In general, when choosing a catalytic camping heater, it is better to rely on the manufacturer’s reputation and its guarantees. Tourists are a fastidious people, life is camp, but there are no serious complaints about the catalytic heaters Kovea, Coleman, Camping, Pathfinder.

On alcohol

The history of ethyl alcohol as a camp fuel goes back centuries, and for good reason: the only way to get burned from alcohol is to get drunk. With a lack of oxygen, the alcohol flame goes out, releasing almost no carbon monoxide. True, alcohol is a fire hazard: it is highly fluid, permeates everything that is and is not allowed, its saturated vapor pressure is high even at subzero temperatures, and its flash point is low. Therefore, you should take a homemade alcohol burner with you as an emergency one, especially since it can be made at home from a coffee can, see fig.

The best choice for a camping alcohol burner is a jar with a tin lid, pos. 1-3: it can be ignited by pouring 4-5 ml of its own into the lid; then the startup will take up to 5-7 minutes instead of 1-3 when igniting from a tray. In a jar with plastic cover(pos. 4-6) you will have to, firstly, hermetically seal the gaping top with tin, which will now become the bottom. Secondly, punch through the filling hole, which is closed with a coin. If it flies off the burning burner, a strong flame will burst out of the filling hole, followed by splashes of burning alcohol. In general, not an option for a hike.

Alcohol vapor nozzles are located at the height of the can 2/3-3/4 from the bottom. The higher the nozzles, the weaker the flame and the greater the possible filling of the burner. In this way, it is possible to regulate its thermal power and operating time within a fairly wide range: fuel consumption varies over time from 1.5 to 6 ml/min. For the safety and efficiency of this burner, it is extremely important that the nozzles are of the same diameter of 1-2 mm, located evenly around the circumference at the same height and ensure the formation of flames. Therefore, the manufacture of an alcohol burner from a can is carried out as follows. way:

An awl or scriber's scriber is fixed horizontally to a wooden block of the required thickness;
The can is pressed against the marking tip and turned;
Next, the jar is wrapped in a strip of paper, on which the beginning/end of the circle is marked;
The paper strip is marked into 12-15 equal parts (for an 80 mm can);
The centers of the holes are marked on the paper on the shell (round sidewall);
Pierce the holes with a round awl of the required diameter;
The awl is inserted horizontally and perpendicular to the shell in this place;
Each time when punching another hole, the tool, without removing it, is smoothly turned upward at the same angle of 45-50 degrees. It is convenient to use a template made from a piece of plywood for this.

Note: a lot of different information on liquid fuel burners, descriptions and homemade drawings can be found on the English-language website zenstoves.net

Candles

Heating a tent with candles is, so to speak, fashionable, but also the worst way. Thermal power candles are only 40-50 W, and saturated paraffin hydrocarbons with a slight oxygen deficiency produce a lot of carbon monoxide. In the old days, cases of burning from candles in large, high ballrooms were not uncommon. If the tent is heated with candles, then it is necessary to raise the canopy at the entrance from below by 3-4 cm, and open the window on the opposite side. The only advantage of candle heating is uniform heat release over a long period of time.

However, good heating simply with candles is not easy to achieve even in a one-person tent: the heat of a candle is predominantly molecular-kinetic. To convert it into soft infrared, a ceramic structure is required. flower pots(items 1 and 2 in the figure), fragile, bulky and quite heavy. Its effectiveness greatly depends on the distance between the visible end of the flame and the lower cut of such a cap, so for heating it is better to use short, thick holiday candles. Their burning time is 3-4 hours, which reduces the risk of burning.

Note: A “pot” converter of molecular kinetic heat into soft infrared is best used with an alcohol burner, branded or homemade. Branded cooking and heating sets of this type are produced from unbreakable ceramics, pos. 3. I prepared dinner, put on the cap - it warmed up by the time the scarf went out. There is not enough oxygen - the alcohol flame will turn very yellow, weaken, and stretch upward, which is immediately noticeable, but will not cause dangerous fumes.

However, household lighting candles can be successfully used during autumn, spring and winter fishing to warm hands, dry mittens and wet cuffs. In this case, the candle is placed in the casing of an old thermos (see figure on the right) or something like it; A window is cut below to install a candle and allow air to enter. A candle fishing heater, with a slight minus outside, maintains a tiny plus in the tent, sufficient to prevent the holes from freezing and not enough for the scarf to freeze to the ice.

Heating without a heater

Did you know that there are tents in which, without heating, you can sleep in your underwear under a blanket when it’s minus 30 outside? These are single-person balloon tents (cocoon tents), suspended from trees, see figure:

Most of us enjoy outdoor activities. We all love fresh air, camping under the stars and winter fishing. At the same time, we try to do this all year round. In the summer, of course, it is dry and warm in the tent, but in the off-season and in winter it is not entirely comfortable at night, so stoves are needed for heating and cooking.

Today we will talk about DIY tent stoves. There are a great many of them from simple to complex. Such a furnace should be light in weight, economical, and fire safety requirements, be easy to install and operate, have the function long burning, be distinguished by reliability. This is the minimum set of requirements for . There are several options for installing a stove in a tent: in the middle on a special bracket, installation on legs closer to the wall of the tent, but if the snow is deep, then flooding is possible.

We are not at all interested in appearance, the main thing is that it provides us with warmth. Today we will try to tell you how to do it. For the mini oven you will need: two cans with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 6 cm (you need to choose a jar with a larger diameter, than a 10 mm mug.); some sheet metal, bolts and washers, parts from an old antenna, metal mug.

Manufacturing: first option

You need to process the upper edges of the can, then cut out a 30 cm circle. with three tin petals and bend them at a right angle. You need to drill 3 holes with a diameter of 4 mm in the jar. in proportion to the arrangement of the petals. Place the circle on the bottom of the jar so that the petals fit into drilled holes, then they are bent and dry fuel is placed. From the top edge you need retreat 20 mm. and drill 3 holes with a diameter of 5 mm. at an angle 120 degrees relative to each other. We put washers into the drilled holes and insert M4 bolts 4 cm long, fasten them with nuts.

Read also: Gas generator furnace: device and design

We place a metal mug on the bolts. For the legs we will need parts from the antenna. We need three legs and for them in the jar we drill 3 holes at an angle of 120 degrees. For foot tips use thermal insulation material. The most important thing: the legs should not be larger than the diameter of the can, since the design in this case it will be unstable. The lid can be made from another jar. You need to trim it by cutting the side on both sides, and bend slightly. The handle can be made from the power supply terminal, securing it in the center with a nut. The cover is needed to protect the entire structure from debris and to conserve fuel consumption. And, most recently, we drill at the bottom of the stove a pair of holes with a diameter of 5 mm.

The DIY mini-stove considered is one of the options for a stove that you can make yourself. Little tips for use: for quick ignition, add a couple of drops of kerosene; if you need to not only heat food, but also cook, then make cuts on the upper edge of the stove with a dotted line, this will increase functionality.

Manufacturing: second option (wood-burning oven)

This option is suitable for people who have a vehicle. It can heat a large tent and uses combustion elements (sticks and logs) economically. All we need to make it is a piece steel pipe diameter 15 cm and 60 cm long., dimensions are approximate. The pipe must stand strictly vertically, since it is the basis of the entire furnace. Cut a rectangular shape at the bottom of the pipe hole about 30 cm high., width - a quarter of the length of the circle. You need to cut the pipe with a thin tool so that the width of the cut is minimal.

A homemade stove for heating a tent can be used so that tourists can spend the night warm and even in cases where it is necessary to heat a steam room in camping conditions. The author of this model uses it mainly in the off-season at temperatures at not very low temperatures - about minus 5 degrees, and only sometimes tested it in frostier conditions, when going on ski trips.

But such a stove (photo below) can be purchased in this Chinese store.

Necessary stove elements and materials:
– Steel pipe 0.2 mm thick, weight 360 grams. Made from 4 foam cans.
– Chimney made of steel 0.2 mm thick (a cover on the pipe to protect it from snow or rain on the street), weight 20 grams. Made from one foam can, weight 20 grams; an electrode with a diameter of 3 mm was also used.
– Housing made of galvanized steel sheet 0.4 mm thick, weight 1 kg; steel blind rivets 3.2x6 mm.
– Stove legs made of galvanized steel rods for suspended ceilings, length 1 m, diameter 4 mm, weight 160 grams.
– The passage through the roof of the tent is made of tinned steel, 0.2 mm thick, made from the bottom of a can, weight 120 grams.
– A cover made of terpowling (reinforced polyethylene, plus a sling - nylon thread, weight 160 grams.

In general, the weight of the entire camping stove for the tent was 1.86 kg. Folded size 320x240x150 mm. The stove can be conveniently placed in a lightweight 80 liter backpack.

About the design and features of the forest stove

The stove has an afterburning chamber, pay attention to the row of rivets on top; this is the chamber partition riveted in (at a distance of 38 mm from the top, close to the front wall and 26 mm from the rear wall). The pipe is at the end of the chamber. Gases go to the rear wall, rise into the chamber, and then go to the front wall and into the pipe. All passages with a cross-section not less than the cross-section of the pipe. Thanks to the afterburner, fuel is used more efficiently and sparks do not fly from the pipe. There is no grate.

Before using the stove in a tent, you must first heat it outside to completely remove the zinc coating. If after this there is zinc left in some places, burn it with a gas torch.
The developer of this tourist mini-stove has been successfully using it since 2009 in tents specially made for the stove; the total operating time by 2012 was about 200 hours. The photo shows a drawing of a camp stove.

If you are going to spend winter nights in a tent while hiking, then the author does not recommend relying only on this stove. It is better to have a sleeping bag with an appropriate comfort temperature. A stove like this can only dry you and your things and create a comfortable temperature in the tent for a short time.

However, even with a good sleeping bag, a stove still won’t hurt. It makes it much easier in cold weather.
Find out more (up to 40 degrees), with which you can sleep even without covering yourself with a blanket.
Why is the top of this stove not flat, because you could cook food on the stove? According to the author of the stove, the thin flat steel sheet from which the stove is made becomes somewhat deformed after the first heating. The plane of contact with the bottom of the pan is reduced. To maintain the boiling temperature of water, you have to overheat the stove, which is dangerous in a small tent. since its radiation overheats surrounding things. And it becomes uncomfortable for people in a small tent to be near the stove.

Special tents for camp stoves

Two tents - houses - were made for this stove. Three-slope 1.5x2.6 meters, and gable 1.3x2.0 meters. Both tents have high sides of 0.6 m and a height of 1.4 m. The bottom of the gable tent is unfastened; it without a bottom with a stove is used as a bathhouse and for winter ski picnics. A gable with a bottom is used for storing things and food.
This development can be used as a camp stove for a bath, but only at above-zero temperatures, preferably in the summer. For the bath, the stove was heated at an outside temperature of up to plus 4 degrees.

On a hike, the tent becomes shelter from bad weather. It protects from moisture and wind, but in cold weather it’s even good sleeping bag will not save you from the cold.

Therefore, lovers of nomadic holidays come up with various mobile heating systems.

Types of heating for tents

Which tasks heating must solve:

Heating and lighting tents in moderate frost without providing sleep. Ideal for fishermen - so that the holes do not freeze. Open fire systems are suitable - gas burner, multi-wick candle in a casing made of tin can, kerosene lantern“bat” with a heat exchange nozzle. Some fishermen use catalytic heaters - disposable chemical heaters based on aluminum alum (they do not provide a significant increase in heat).

Photo 1. When installing a metal stove in a tent, you must take care of a safe chimney.

Heating overnight stays during short hikes. Suitable for a massive metal stove made of stainless steel, gas infrared heater with a chimney.
Heating tents using wood for long hikes. The main characteristics are lightness, reliability, absence of carbon monoxide, and the ability to use local fuel.
Tent heating in extreme conditions of mountain passes. The main thing here is ease and efficiency. Perfect fit gas burners with tourist 5 liter bottle.

Attention! Problem carbon monoxide- the main thing you should pay attention to! Just three breaths lead to severe poisoning, loss of consciousness and death! Don't neglect common sense for the sake of momentary comfort.

Heating the tent depending on the location of the firebox can be internal and external.

Internal heating requires removal of combustion products, as well as placing the stove in a tight space.
External heating - transfer of temperature from the combustion source to the tent without the admixture of carbon monoxide.

Is it possible to install an economy stove?

A potbelly stove is suitable for a short winter hike. made of thin-walled steel. It will heat a large tent, and transporting a heavy stove in winter makes it easier to use a sled or drag.

She consists of a firebox and a chimney. The firebox door must provide regulation of combustion intensity, the entire structure must be sealed.

Frame ovens gets very hot. On the one hand, it’s a plus; it’s used as a camp stove for heating a kettle or food. The downside is the risk of fire. The wall of the tent near the stove should be lined with foil insulation; the valve at the outlet of the chimney should be made of heat-resistant fabric - a fire hose or a fireman's suit.

Install and heat such a stove Just— retractable legs are installed, the chimney is passed through a valve on the roof, and firewood is laid.

Minus - short battery life, opportunity reverse smoke when throwing wood and strong wind, sparks from the pipe with a strong flame, relatively heavy weight.

Efficient heating with a dry pipe system. Drawing

An original and proven method of heating can be a dry pipe laid through a Finnish candle fire. If the tent is large, you can run the pipe into a fire or smoldering coal pit. This method is just gaining popularity, but it outperforms others in its simplicity, efficiency, safety and transportability.

Photo 2. Drawing of heating a tent using a dry pipe system. Cold air moves through the pipe, being heated by the fire along the way.

How to make a dry pipe with your own hands: materials and tools

No special tools are required. Enough metal files, files, sealants made of heat-resistant silicone.

It is better to use as pipes aluminum rods from a vacuum cleaner and a bracket from an armored bed, having a shaped shape, which is ideal for installation in a “Finnish candle”. All joints must be tight and open with noticeable force.

How the system works. Does it burn for a long time?

Finnish candle - a fire inside a log. It's done like this: log 50-70 cm long splits, with an ax the middle is selected and instead of it, kindling is laid. The log is collected and tied with wire. The candle is installed above the ground, the draft of burning gases passes through the burning channel. The intensity of combustion is regulated by the lid and installation height.

You can adapt a Finnish candle for heating a tent, passing the pipe through the burning center log. The pipe should be shaped, the log is “put on” vertical section.

Cold air is taken in through the lower horizontal section, heated in a smoldering log and supplied through an air duct into the tent.

In severe frosts, the air duct is better insulate with non-flammable basalt wool insulation. Then heat loss will be minimal.

Advantages this heating method:

Safety. The firebox is located outside the tent, combustion products do not mix with the heated air. The possibility of fire or suffocation is practically excluded, and by increasing the lower air duct, we move the air intake away from the combustion source.
Ease of manufacture. Ready-made tubes connected into sockets are commercially available.
Transportability. The weight of the entire installation, including the axe, is total 2 kilograms.
Versatility use. Wherever there is a log of a certain length, you can light a Finnish candle. The heartwood of a tree burns better - it has a certain moisture content.
Duration burning log - from 3 to 6 hours depending on thickness. This is quite enough to sleep warm.

What to consider when using dry pipes

When heating a tent using a dry pipe passed through a Finnish candle, a simple fire or a coal pit, the following difficulties may arise:

Inappropriate pipe diameter. The larger the tent, the larger the diameter of the pipes.
Leaks at joints pipes Carbon monoxide enters through them. The diameter is selected so as to fit perfectly tightly. There should be no joints inside the fire pit.
The air intake is located too close to the fire. Ideally, it should be extended and taken out of the tent. Air exchange will be ideal, this will save heat.
It is better to use as a heating pipe stainless steel 1-2 mm thick. For lightness, supply pipes are made from aluminum or thin stainless steel.
You can protect the fabric from fire by stretching it between the fire and the tent screen made of frozen wet gauze.
To the fire did not tilt or fall, it is advisable to prop it up or tie it to a support.

In descriptions of the adventures of geologists, the method of heating a hut using clay pipes is considered a curiosity. However, if you have a sealed dry pipe system in this way You can heat a small two or three person tent.

Lightweight portable stove for making food and fishing tents

Autumn, first ice, deep winter, last ice, spring. For every fisherman, all these periods are associated with a time of hope, anticipation of the catch, for which he sacrifices comfort. Winter suits for fishing and hunting Is it worth the sacrifice? After all, there is a cheap, lightweight wood-burning camping stove, the design of which will allow you to safely heat a tent, cook divine fish soup, and just take a nap in the warmth, without thinking about the need to add firewood.

Hiking and tourist stoves for tents - keep warm in any weather

The main thing that distinguishes camping and folding stoves is the ability to provide heat on any of the available natural resources. In other words, dry wood, firewood of any quality, even raw. After all, you are unlikely to have the time or ability to conduct gas or find coal! You will only have the opportunity to use specifically wood as fuel.

That’s why our design department has developed, and we want to offer you, a successful design for a mobile stove that can warm you up in any bad weather. Rain, wind, prolonged snowstorm, or any other bad weather will not be a reason for you to cut short your vacation or trip.

The main thing in the design we propose, which was developed with a huge number of field tests, is the following:

Low weight and compact dimensions of the product when folded (assembled). It’s easy to move such a stove any distance; it won’t become a burden for you.

The ability to use even raw firewood, you will never have problems finding fuel for such a stove, it is actually under your feet.

The highest heat loss of a tent stove heats the air in the tent in 2-3 minutes when the operating operating mode is reached. With all this, the low consumption of firewood will not force you to get up at night for additional fuel.

Camping folding stove - the best for a fishing tent

Heat exchanger. Heating a tent in winter while fishing.

Heating a tent in winter is a pressing issue today for many fishermen who spend several days on the ice.

Stove for winter tent (fishing).

Stove for winter tents ( fishing). Winter tents for fishing inexpensively, buy tents for. Collapsible, lightweight stove for hiking.

If necessary, the mini-stove can be extinguished almost instantly; it is enough to simply block the access of oxygen (air) to the combustion zone and wait for the coals to cool.

You will spend the whole night waiting for a bite at one point, or fish several catchable places with the transfer of a tent and our camp stove, without losing comfort and warmth. And also keep in mind that thanks to such a hiking ovens, you are provided with boiling water and heated homemade sandwiches; no fisherman should have to explain the meaning of such trifles.

Tourist mini stove for fishing- just one load of firewood for the whole night

What is good about a small mini stove for a winter tent, if you can buy it at the manufacturer’s price, that is, from us. In addition to favorable prices, we offer:

1. Thoughtful ergonomic design, when folded, our mini oven will not take up extra space in the trunk of a car. Such a camping stove is easy to transport on ice or off-road, the minimal weight will not become a burden for you, and the benefit from such luggage is maximum.

2. High heat transfer and versatility. You can always warm up, heat up dinner or boil tea. Opportunities ovens Enough even to prepare a full dinner.

3. Winter suits for fishing on sale by huntsman suit winter suit for women. Maximum efficiency, one stack of firewood at night, and this will provide you with a restful sleep while waiting for the morning bite. Prepare 2-3 times less fuel than you are used to using conventional mobile stoves.

4. Guaranteed safety when used in tents various types. Tent for winter fishing This is a ply bottom furnace winter tent for. Even with strong heating of the combustion chamber, all external surfaces intended for carrying and adjusting draft do not become hot. Adjust the intensity burning wood or move the oven to any place convenient for you.

By purchasing products from us, from a manufacturing company, you are guaranteed to protect yourself from counterfeits, which can be potentially dangerous when used in a confined tent space. Remember, any fake will not only not keep you warm, but will also become a threat to your health. your life.