Swedish brick stove for heating and cooking with ordering. Swedish stove: how to build a practical and efficient heating device with your own hands

And so complete ordering, selection, calculation of the necessary materials and tools for work.

Stoves of various designs came to us in Russia mainly from Europe, and they also began to heat them with white heat abroad, that is, they came up with a chimney to remove stove gases, smoke, soot, and soot. At the beginning of the 18th-19th century, by Decree of the Tsar, our Country switched to the European standard for heating stoves “in white”; before the villages who stoked their huts, the “black” people had to make chimneys. But black heating continued in rare cases until the 20th century)

From the Europeans we received such stove designs as “Swedish” and “Dutch”; from the name it is clear that the first was invented by the Swedes, and the second by the Dutch. Both are based on the principle of fuel economy and maximum heat transfer, as well as ease of installation and, of course, functionality. The Shvedka oven includes a cooking chamber with a stove for 2, an oven for baking baked goods and pies, as well as for heating the room in which it is installed.

So, let's look specifically at what is needed to lay a stove?

Materials

1. red ceramic brick
2. fire brick
3. clay (or ready-made masonry mixture)
4. sand
5. cement
6. gravel
7. rubble stone
8. oven door
9. sheet metal oven
10. damper
11. grate
12. metal strip

Tools

1. shovel
2. trowel
3. rule
4. container for preparing the solution
5. plumb line
6. level
7. corner
8. roulette
9. trowel
10. jointing
11. pickaxe (if the ground is rocky)
12. spatula

Step-by-step instructions for laying a Swedish stove with your own hands and ordering.

This type of stove is very economical in terms of building material, namely, according to the author, its creation will require only 500 bricks, excluding pipes. You can also save a little on pipe laying by using used red brick, the price for it is usually half that of a new one, and a thrifty owner always has a good stack of used bricks in his yard, collected brick by brick over several years)

The oven includes a cooking chamber with a 2-burner stove, as well as an oven for baking bread and pies. In general, despite its small size, the oven is quite functional and provides additional benefits in household terms in addition to heating the room.

The stove itself has significant weight and pressure on the ground, so a foundation is required; it is best to fill it at the stages of building a house, to make it easier to remove the soil; if the house has already been built, then you will have to carefully dig a hole under the foundation and carry it out in buckets ground to the street.

You also need to know the characteristics of the soil in your area, the level of groundwater and whether there is quicksand. The depth is generally made at 50 cm, and then the formwork is built, with the expectation that it will be 5 cm below the floor level. The solution is prepared on the basis of cement of a grade not lower than M-400 and sand with filler in the form of gravel and rubble stone. The composition is one part cement, 2 parts sand and 4 parts crushed stone. All this fills the formwork to the very top and is compacted so that air bubbles escape and the solution evenly fills all cavities and cracks. After everything is ready, a chemical reaction and hardening of the cement will begin. For this to happen evenly, it is necessary to periodically moisten the surface with water, so the cement will become more durable.

Professional tool used for laying stoves.

For laying the walls of the stove and chimney channels, ordinary red ceramic bricks are used, but for laying the combustion chamber it is better to take fire-resistant ones, because they can withstand high temperatures and changes, unlike ordinary bricks, and do not crumble or crack.

The oven also has dampers, oven doors, an oven made of sheet metal (you can weld the oven yourself), a grate, a hob, and a corner.

General view of the Shvedka stove.

And so, first of all, a layer of waterproofing in the form of roofing felt is laid on the foundation, and then the first row of bricks is laid out.

When laying rows 3 and 4, an ash chamber is formed and 3 cleaning doors are installed.

Next, when laying the 5th row, the combustion chamber is laid from refractory bricks, and an oven and grate are also installed. Attention! There should be no connection between refractory and ordinary bricks, because they have different degrees of expansion when heated.

The masonry of the sixth and ninth rows is the combustion chamber; the brick between the oven and the firebox is placed on the edge.

The tenth row is a partition over the oven, and the cavity must be filled with clay-sand mortar.

Then the cooking chamber and chimney channels are formed.

The overlap of the cooking chamber is done as follows, namely, a corner and a metal strip of 4-5 mm are laid.

Then the brickwork is done again.

Doors are installed for cleaning the channels, the gap between the door and the masonry is filled with asbestos cord.

After which comes the formation and laying of chimneys.

Then all the channels are blocked and connected into one chimney. Extension by 5 cm.

If you need to build a cooking and heating device at home, we recommend paying attention to the stove called “Swedge”. This version of the stove is characterized by its compact size, ease of construction, and quick heating to the desired temperature. We will learn further about how to make a stove with your own hands.

Photos of ovens by hand - the history of the creation of the Shvedka oven

The design features of the Shvedka stove allow it to be placed in the wall between the kitchen and any other room. This way, you can quickly heat up the kitchen while still cooking. Additional heat is directed to warm the adjacent room. Additionally, the stove can be equipped with a bench or fireplace.

The appearance of modern Swedish stoves can be distinguished by both roughness and decorative delicate patterns. Some purchased models have the shape of a cabinet and are installed ready-made in the room.

According to legend, the Shvedka stove originated in Russia during the reign of Peter the Great. Thus, the Swedes brought this version of the stove. According to other sources, the stove was developed by the Swedes and was built much later. This version of the stove is very similar to the Dutch oven, however, the cooking surface here is wider, and the stove has a wall, thanks to which it is able to heat two rooms at once.

The original version of the Swedish stove was a stove made of brick or a combination of this material with metal, stone, etc. Most often, in Sweden, fireclay bricks, which have high fire-resistant properties, were used to make stoves.

The operating principle of the Swedish oven is based on a combination of several devices. First of all, the oven performs the function of an oven; various types of dishes and pastries are perfectly baked in it. For this purpose, the initial heat that is released during the combustion process is used.

The firebox in a Swedish stove has the shape of a bell, thanks to which it is possible to burn the fuel chemically. A steel oven cannot be directly exposed to flame. It heats up when the first fuel burns. When you open the oven door, after just a few minutes from the moment the oven is fired, the oven heats up. In this case, the smoke is at the bottom, and the oven is heated using gases.

The upper part of the stove has the shape of a niche, it is spacious, and is heated using the first and second heat, as well as smoldering coals. It contains a rope for drying clothes or clothes. Overnight, the clothes dry completely.

The niche located on top of the stove is closed with a special lid. It is used to reheat yesterday's food. Arranging a heat in the space between the firebox and the smoke circulation element is a rather expensive process. Therefore, the Swedish oven is equipped with only a transfer window, which is located under the lower part of the oven.

Heat accumulation in the stove is carried out in relation to duct technology. To warm up the device, the second heat and residual heat from smoldering coal are used. The channels in the stove are located vertically. The lower part of the oven warms up worse than the upper part. This factor should be taken into account when using different types of fuel. It is possible to arrange a horizontal smoke circulation. In this case, the stove generates more heat, but you need to work hard to clean it. In relation to the individual preferences of the owners, the duration and design features of the duct chimney changes.

Another element of the Swedish oven is the second oven. This part of the furnace is located in an adjacent room. It can also contain a fireplace or an equipped bed. Please note that a Swedish lounger or bed is distinguished by certain features of its arrangement. The length of the berth is no more than six feet, and the width is no more than 2.5. A bed is arranged above the lounger, while the lower part is equipped with heating. Under the bed there were also drawers containing linen.

The Swedish stove has a simple design, high efficiency, and affordable cost. The heat output of such a stove is much higher than that of a Dutch stove, while the amount of materials for its construction is much less. In addition, this version of the oven allows you to cook food and dry things in it. With the right approach, it is possible to obtain a high-quality device for heating two rooms at once.

Drawings of stoves by hand: construction of a Swedish stove

In order to correctly build a Swedish stove, it is necessary to adhere to the previously developed drawings and dimensions of this structure. The quality of the resulting heating item is determined primarily by the size of the structure:

We suggest you familiarize yourself with the optimal dimensions of each stove part:

• the size of the plate is 71x41 cm;
• firebox height from 28 to 33 cm, width 32-38 cm, depth 45-50 cm;
• the height, width and depth of the oven are 30x33x50;
• the thickness of the steel from which the oven door is constructed is 0.5 cm;
• the interval between the grate and the nearest wall is about a third of a brick or a whole brick.

These values ​​are approximate and range from 5-10 cm. One of the most important factors is the thickness of the oven walls. If you use thin roofing iron to make an oven, it will heat up quickly and cool down quickly. In this case, it will be impossible to get quality prepared food. The oven and stove are made from steel or a material that does not conduct heat well. The dishes are heated through the burners.

Strictly adhere not only to the specified dimensions of the oven, but also to the proportional relationship between all elements. For example, when constructing a firebox of minimal size, the depth of the furnace will also be minimal. Otherwise, the level of efficiency will significantly decrease.

The oven is washed using gases in all directions. Therefore, a gap must be created between the back wall and the wall of the firebox, the minimum value of which is a quarter of the brick. The depth of the oven is also adjusted according to the previously described parameters. The oven can be located near the firebox if there is insulating material in the form of asbestos or vermiculite between them.

Particular attention should be paid to the combustion door. Since the furnace is subjected to constant thermal loads, this part quickly fails. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cast version of the door, which is walled up in the brickwork. To make a mustache, it is enough to attach a wire about 5 cm long and up to 5 mm in diameter to the door. Wire mustaches are also walled up to better hold the door. An additional steel strip provides better fixation of the material.

Do-it-yourself oven photo:

Quite a lot of difficulties arise in the process of laying a Swedish stove. First of all, before starting work, you need to study the drawings for the stove yourself, according to which the masonry is schematically performed. A Swedish stove produces a large amount of heat, so the floor on which it will be installed must be well-insulated. The best option for thermal insulation is to use basalt cardboard, which is laid in several layers. For work, sheets 0.5 cm thick are used. The middle sheet should have a foil coating with basalt microfiber. Thus, the heat will be reflected into the room.

Next, the base is made. To lay the first two rows of the stove, an interval is observed with additional widening of the seams. Thus, a part is obtained in the form of a pedestal protrusion. Please note that the maximum seam width is 1.3 cm.

Before laying bricks, it is immersed in water for several minutes. Thus, the quality of the masonry increases. Otherwise, dry brick begins to quickly absorb moisture from the mortar, reducing its strength. Keeping a brick in water for too long also negatively affects its quality. Therefore, the brick should be moderately moistened. Marl is used to make masonry mortar. Some oven options are made using ordinary clay. The bricks of the stoves are placed by hand on the mortar previously prepared in small portions.

In order to obtain a high level of efficiency and efficiently burn fuel with maximum heat release, the combustion part should be properly equipped. The temperature inside the firebox should be high, due to this heat is released and the oven heats up. This furnace element is made of light yellow fireclay bricks. Fireclay clay is used to make masonry mortar. Please note that ordinary red brick and its fireclay version differ in the coefficient of thermal expansion, so laying them close to each other is unacceptable. The interval between these types of bricks should be 0.6 cm.

It is recommended that the firebox and the rest of the stove, with the exception of the first three rows, be made of fireclay bricks. However, this material is highly expensive, so you need to make at least the inner part of the firebox from it.

When making a sauna stove with your own hands, pay special attention to the evenness of all surfaces. For cutting and joining bricks together, it is best to use a grinder. In relation to the order and drawings, the blanks are made in advance in the open air, since cutting bricks with a grinder is a rather complex process, during which dust is released.

In relation to the drawings, the corners must be rounded. This is necessary in order to improve the draft inside the stove. A fluff is installed at the mouth of the chimney, cutting through the wind it increases the draft.

Hand sauna stoves require metal elements. The reliability of the furnace is determined by the presence of a minimum number of steel elements in it. However, in order to reinforce the hanging masonry in the furnace, steel strips and angles are installed in it. Thus, it is possible to reduce the cost of the finished device.

After making a sauna stove with your own hands, the process of putting it into operation follows. Initially, under no circumstances should you heat a stove that has not yet dried out. Thus, its strength is reduced. The stove must be made during warm weather. It must dry for some time and only after that it begins to be put into use. The minimum amount of time for drying the oven is 15 days.

Next, warm drying is carried out for two weeks. To heat the stove, a minimum amount of coal and firewood is used, preferably from aspen. Firewood made from pine or birch is not suitable because when burned they release a large amount of heat and soot. There is paper in the cleaning door during drying; after it becomes dry, this process ends.

This is followed by the process of hot drying, in which the stove is heated several times a day, in the morning and in the evening. The load on her is gradually increasing. If there is a multi-pass oven, drying is carried out in winter.

Additionally, you can equip the stove with a stove bench. To make such a stove, you will need significantly more bricks. However, the bed can be used as a sleeping place or for drying a large number of wet things.

This stove is not equipped with an oven, since the heat from it immediately transfers to the stove bench.

The second option is an addition to the fireplace stove. There are two ways to organize such a stove. According to the first method, the fireplace is an addition to the back side of the stove and has a separate chimney from it. The second method of installing a fireplace involves heating it from the stove, thus, it is possible not only to save materials on the construction of the stove, but also to heat two rooms at once.

Another version of the Swedish stove is a small stove installed in dachas. It is used seasonally, periodically. Particularly relevant is the presence of a niche inside which clothes and shoes are dried. The amount of materials for the construction of such a stove is less, but the amount of heat generated as a result is also reduced.

DIY Swedish oven video:

A large range of modern, high-tech heating equipment allows you to significantly improve the quality of life in your home. In this regard, the traditional stove, it would seem, should completely lose its relevance and be used only as an exhibit in a museum. But in practice, a completely different situation is observed.

Owners of private country houses very often choose a stove. The most common type of heating device for private homes is the Swedish stove. It has a lot of positive properties. Compact in size, it can heat several rooms well at once, and you can also cook food on it.

The history of the Swedish stove

The first Swedish stoves appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century, and due to the fact that it proved itself only on the positive side, the Swedish stove very quickly gained popularity among consumers.

It is important to note that the designation “Swedish” is quite arbitrary. From some, not fully proven sources, there is information that the design of this furnace was developed by Swedish designers, at the request of the Royal Academy of Sciences. This device was brought to Russia by Peter 1.

Popular Swedish stove models

This type of heating device has a number of varieties. The method of its installation depends on which option is chosen.

Let's take a closer look at the main options for the Swedish stove:

1. A modern version of the stove. It is distinguished by its compact size, stylish design and high operating efficiency. The design of the stove resembles a stove in appearance, in which a hob and oven are used as a heat source. Having the latter is very convenient, because food cooked in an oven is much tastier than regular food cooked on electricity or gas. A modern Swedish stove combines an oven, stove and hood, which stretches all the way to the ceiling of the room. Traditionally, this type of heating device is made of magnesite or titanium. These are independent devices that do not require special engineering solutions.
2. Traditional Swedish. As a rule, such a unit is made to order or made by hand. In its production, special refractory bricks are used. They also line the stove with it.
3. Decorative view of a Swedish stove. This is a compact, decorative look for a classic version of a heating device. Traditionally, it is installed as room decor, in some cases it is used as a place for cooking, or an additional heating device. For example, in a kitchen decorated in a rustic style, such a heating device will become a highlight, an element that will unite all the decorative items. The stove is built from brick and lined with decorative tiles.

When building this or that Swedish stove, it is very important to adhere to the basic recommendations of experts. It is important to remember that the stove has direct contact with the flame, and therefore it must be not only functional, but also safe to use.

Advice ! Even during the first sketches, it is worth determining exactly where the hob, oven, fireplace and other elements will be located. This is the only way to get not only a high-quality and useful, but also a safe device.

Basic elements and operating principle of the furnace

The general design of this heating device is a traditional design, with a spacious oven. The oven consists of several main elements. Let's look at them in more detail.

The oven is one of the main elements of the appliance. The Swedish stove is designed in such a way that while food is being cooked, the heat generated does not go into the chimney, but is used to heat the house. A traditional stove functions in the same way, with heat stored under the roof. Since Swedish houses are not characterized by high ceilings and spacious rooms, it was not possible to make something similar to a Russian stove. Therefore, the Swedish version was slightly modified. The combustion part looks like a cap responsible for the process of afterburning fuel. When wood burns, the flame does not touch the oven; it heats up under the influence of the first heat. Already in the first minutes, after the flame has flared up, such an amount of heat accumulates in the oven that, when the door is opened, it can heat the room and everyone present in it. During combustion, the smoke does not go up, as in traditional stoves, but down, this allows it to heat up from the very base.

Another element of the Swedish stove is the niche at the top. This element has a very spacious space that can be heated from both the first and second heat. Smoldering coals also provide additional heat. In Swedish houses, housewives used the upper niches for drying clothes. In a very short time, things were completely dried.

The niche above the stove is another part of the stove. It was closed with a special wooden flap at night, and food could be placed inside. It stayed warm overnight. And with the first heat in the morning it was possible to heat food until it was hot.

The chimney in a Swedish oven is a hollow structure, in the form of a window, which is located at the bottom of the oven. To prevent the stove from cooling down too quickly, it is very important to close the damper after lighting. Heat is accumulated in the ventilation duct and retained for a long time. It comes from the first heat and smoldering coals, and it is very important to preserve it as long as possible. The ventilation ducts in this type of heating device are located vertically, so the stove does not heat up much at the base, and much less soot accumulates in it. Sometimes a Swedish stove is also installed with horizontal ventilation ducts, only in this case it will have to be cleaned much more often.

The efficiency of using a Swedish stove is similar to that of using a traditional Russian stove. The cost of the Swedish heating device is somewhat more expensive, but it is fully compensated by the high heat output of the unit.

Attention ! When installing a Swedish stove, you must use only high-quality materials and fittings.

You should also strictly adhere to accuracy and precision in your work, and follow all the rules and recommendations of specialists.

Technical features of the furnace

If a private, country house has an area of ​​more than 40 m², then it would be better to mount not an ordinary Swede, but its improved version, designed for spacious rooms. As an example, it would be extremely difficult to heat a two-story house with a conventional stove.

Do not be afraid that a more powerful model of the heating device will be cumbersome. The compactness of the unit and fuel efficiency are the main characteristics of the modern model. The following materials can be used as fuel:

• tree;
• pellets;
• peat;
• coal and other types of fuel.

The choice depends entirely on the type of stove design.

Traditionally, a Swedish stove is installed next to the wall that separates the living space and the kitchen. Often, the part of the structure that is responsible for cooking is mounted in the kitchen, and the back side is in the room. You can make a fireplace from the back of the Swedish stove.

Operating rules for the stove

Like any other stove, before it is put into operation, the Swede requires compliance with basic requirements:

1. Do not light the stove immediately after installation. She needs time for everything to freeze and dry thoroughly. It is very important to take weather conditions into account. If it is raining outside, you should wait until it stops.
2. During the first fourteen days it is heated in small portions. This is necessary for the entire structure to dry thoroughly.
3. By placing crumpled newspapers in the doors, you can maintain the required temperature. A structure can be considered dried only when the paper has stopped smoldering and is completely dry.

A Swedish stove is a warm, cozy home and delicious food. Significant advantages of the stove: small area, less wood consumption, combination of a heating stove and cooking capabilities. We have prepared step-by-step instructions for you with drawings and order so that you can fold it yourself.

Foundation - monolithic concrete

Materials

Concrete grade B15 (M200) is suitable for the foundation for the furnace. To prepare such concrete, the components are taken in the following proportion: cement - 1 part, crushed stone - 4 parts, sand - 2 parts.

Cement must be taken at least M400. The coarse aggregate can be crushed stone or gravel, the particle size of which does not exceed 30 mm. Sand with impurities of no more than 10% is suitable for concrete work. These include clay, mica, organic origin and dust particles. Impurities in coarse aggregate should be less than 2%.

The required materials for the foundation can be calculated based on the consumption per 1 m 3 of ready-made concrete:

1. Cement M400 - 325 kg/m3.
2. Sand - 1300 kg/m3.
3. Gravel (crushed stone) - 1300 kg/m3.
4. Water - 205 l/m3.

Tools

To carry out concrete work, you must have a tool with which:

• lay the concrete mixture (shovel, trowel);
• compact (tampers, probe);
• smooth (ironing board, trowel, grout, iron, corner).

1 - dipstick; 2 — narrow tamper; 3 - round tamper; 4 — square tamper; 5 - ironing board; 6 - scraper; 7 - half-grater; 8 — ironing board

Sequence of concreting

It is very important to determine the depth to which you need to lay the foundation for the stove. This depends on the ability of the soil to resist loads on it (bearing capacity). There are quite a lot of soils with weak bearing capacity. Under the influence of loads, they can change their original structure (subsiding loess and containing soluble salts, swelling clay, of biological origin, as well as water-saturated, increasing in volume in winter).

So, for example, for fine (silty) sands, sandy loams, loams and clays, in which groundwater is located above the depth of soil freezing, the bottom of the foundation is assigned below this level. The depth of freezing is determined based on the results of long-term observations.

1 - sand cushion; 2 - gravel; 3 — freezing depth; 4 - monolithic foundation; 5 - waterproofing; 6 — floor level; 7 - brickwork

This is the case if the house may not be heated in winter. If the house is heated throughout the winter, then the base of the foundation should be at a depth of more than 50 cm from the layout of the land plot.

In dense soils with good bearing capacity, the foundation can be concreted without formwork. Then a hole is dug exactly according to the size of the foundation. If the soil crumbles, formwork is necessary. It is made from coniferous or deciduous wood, which is not subject to warping. The boards are taken with a thickness of at least 19 mm and a moisture content of no more than 25%.

At the bottom of the hole under the foundation, a cushion at least 15-20 cm thick is made of sand and gravel, which is compacted.

When laying the concrete mixture, be sure to tamp or compact it to release any air bubbles that appear in it. This increases the density of concrete, and therefore strength.

Caring for freshly laid concrete consists of maintaining the required temperature and humidity. This is protection from rapid drying of the concrete surface in windy, hot weather using some kind of wet covering (burlap, tarpaulin, wet sawdust or sand).

Protection of fresh concrete from excessive moisture, drying, and cooling is carried out for one to two weeks in accordance with the outside air temperature. The most important thing is that the concrete gains at least half of its full strength.

The formwork can be removed only when sufficient concrete strength (50%) has been achieved. Most often, this occurs no earlier than 7-14 days at temperatures from +5 to +20 °C. The higher the temperature, the faster the strength gains.

Waterproofing is placed on top of the hardened concrete (2 layers of roofing material). The size of the foundation must be taken 100 mm larger at each edge of the furnace.

Sequence of construction of a Swedish-type furnace

Materials

For stove masonry, you need a brick that will withstand high temperatures. These include ordinary clay bricks (GOST 390-96) and refractory fireclay bricks (GOST 530-2012).

Important! For kiln work, the use of silicate, hollow, unburnt, or cracked bricks is unacceptable.

In total, for a Swedish-type stove, excluding pipes, you need:

1. Clay bricks - 505 pcs.
2. Fireproof bricks - 25 pcs.

The furnace can be laid using clay-sand mortar, or a ready-made fire-resistant mortar for furnace work. Today, stores offer several types of such solutions.

A clay-sand solution can be prepared based on the following proportion for clay of different fat contents:

1. Oily clay (2-4% sand) - 1 part clay: 2.5 parts sand.
2. Medium clay (15% sand) - 1 part clay: 1.5 parts sand.
3. Skinny clay (30% sand) - 1:1.

To prepare the solution, the clay is first soaked for 24 hours, then sand is gradually added to it in portions, constantly stirring until smooth. Water is also added in portions. Finally, you need to add water immediately before work. The clay solution should slide off the shovel easily, without spreading.

Furnace appliances

1. Blower door (140x140 mm) - 1 pc.
2. Fire door (210x250 mm) - 1 pc.
3. Cleaning door - 5 pcs.
4. Gate valve with hole (120x210 mm) - 1 pc.
5. Oven (300x365x450 mm) - 1 pc.
6. Plate (410x710 mm) - 1 pc.
7. Grate – 1 pc.
8. Metal sheet (750x500 mm) - 1 pc.

The oven can be made from sheet steel by welding. For protection, the outer surface is coated with fire-resistant enamels or varnishes.

Directly under the firebox a metal sheet (750x500 mm) is laid on asbestos cement.

Tools for laying a furnace

1 - pickaxe; 2 - various trowels; 3 - jointing; 4 — level; 5 - square; 6 — mallet; 7 - plumb line

The firebox and smoke circulation (chimney) are the main parts of the stove body. Fuel is burned in the firebox. Smoke circulation increases the internal surface of the stove, accumulating heat in its mass, and transferring it to the heated room.

External view of the oven: 1 - cleaning doors; 2 — ash door; 3 - combustion door; 4 — oven; 5 - hob; 6 - valve

A grate is installed in the bottom of the firebox to provide air access to the fire. To ensure a normal combustion process, the draft in the furnace is regulated by a certain position of the combustion and ash doors. The heat output of the Shvedka stove in question is 3200 kcal/hour. It includes a cooking chamber and an oven.

It is necessary to begin furnace work only if there is a covering over the intended location of the furnace, at least temporarily. It is advisable to first make a selection of bricks for each row, combing them and tying them dry.

Orders

Before starting masonry, it is necessary to check all the dimensions of the foundation and determine the orientation of the furnace, including where the pipe will pass through the ceiling, as well as the roof. Immediately before work, ordinary clay bricks are soaked for 2 minutes, and fireclay bricks are only rinsed.

The first and second rows are laid with seams bandaged at least 1/2 brick. For masonry with ordinary clay bricks, a joint of less than 5 mm is required. It is allowed in the case of using 3/4 bricks to bandage 1/4 bricks.

Important! The masonry must be carried out while maintaining verticality along the plumb line and horizontality along the level of all seams.

The third and fourth rows form the ash chamber. There are also 3 cleaning doors installed here. They are inserted with a gap of 3-5 mm directly during masonry work. The gap is filled with asbestos cord. The top of the doors should be level with the horizontal joint of the masonry.

In the fifth row, the firebox is laid out with refractory bricks, the thickness of the seam for which should not be more than 3 mm. A grate is also installed here with a gap of 3-5 mm. The grate openings are directed along the firebox. The gap is filled with sand or ash. An oven is also installed in this row. The formation of chimneys begins at the rear of the furnace.

Important! It is not allowed to bind refractory and clay bricks, since they have different expansion rates under the influence of temperature and can contribute to the formation of cracks.

The sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth rows form the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber door is installed with a gap (3-5 mm) filled with asbestos cord. The wire screwed to the door is embedded in the brickwork. Fireclay bricks are placed on edge between the furnace and oven.

The tenth row involves covering the oven. The partition between the oven and the furnace is raised by 1-2 cm. Next, a layer of clay-sand mortar is laid on the oven to the level of the partition. A corner of 1000x40x40 mm is placed on the front side under the slab.

Eleventh row. The hob is laid and smoke channels are then formed.

Twelfth to sixteenth rows. The cooking chamber and chimney channels are formed, taking into account the ligation of the seams.

Seventeenth, eighteenth rows. To cover the cooking chamber, bricks are placed on strip steel and corners. A wire is screwed to them and embedded in the masonry.

Two cleaning doors are installed in the nineteenth and twentieth rows.

The twenty-first to twenty-eighth rows form chimneys according to the order. In the twenty-seventh row, a valve is also installed with a gap (3-5 mm) and sealed with an asbestos cord.

In the twenty-ninth row, the stove masonry is expanded by 5 cm for the cornice. All channels are blocked, except for the pipe.

The thirtieth row suggests an expansion of another 5 cm.

Thirty-first row. The furnace size is reduced to the original size.

Features of pipe laying

Next, a pipe the size of five bricks is laid. Three rows up to the ceiling, pipe fluffing begins to protect the wooden floor structures from hot gases. The thickness of the pipe in this place should be 1.5 bricks. They also increase the thickness of the pipe when passing through wooden roof structures. A metal cap is installed on top of the pipe. The entire outer part of the pipe is laid using cement-sand masonry mortar.

The height of the pipe above the roof is laid out according to the diagram. To increase traction, the height is related to the distance from the roof ridge.

The oven will fill your beloved home with warmth, comfort and kindness!

The Swedish stove has gained considerable popularity as a fairly efficient and low-cost heating design that can be used to quickly heat a room and for cooking. You can buy such a stove ready-made, or you can save a lot of money and build it yourself. Having some skills and knowing the technology of work, this is not so difficult to do.

The Swedish heating stove is practically not inferior in efficiency to a massive Russian stove, but it has noticeably smaller dimensions and is capable of heating to high temperatures in a short time. The compact design of the Swede is designed so that it can be placed in the wall between two adjacent rooms. In traditional Scandinavian homes, the stove was installed between the main living room and the kitchen; in more modern homes, a Swede can take place between the kitchen and the living room. This design is a very practical option, because on the one hand, you use it for cooking, and on the other hand, the generated heat is not wasted, but is used to gradually heat the room adjacent to the kitchen. It is worth noting that such a stove can become the main accent in the design of a modern room. If desired, the Swede can be decorated with decorative materials or patterns, or you can install a fireplace next to it and create a relaxation area with a sofa, armchair or bed. The Swedish stove, as the name implies, came to us from cold Sweden, where the prerequisites for the creation of such a design were the country’s rather harsh climate and the lack of a large amount of fuel. Traditional Swedish dwellings were cramped, so there was simply no room to build massive stoves. In addition, in Sweden there are large deposits of fireclay clay, from which such a structure is made. The Swedish cooking stove made it possible to heat the house in a short time and prepare dinner for the family, while using fuel quite economically. Elements and principle of operation of the furnace The Swedish oven diagram depicts a classic design with a large, spacious oven: Such a stove consists of several basic elements, which we will consider below: The oven, shown in the figure as number 1, is one of the most important parts of the structure. The Swedish stove is designed in such a way that during the cooking process, the heat from the burning fuel does not evaporate through the pipe, as in duct structures, but is used to heat the room. The traditional Russian stove has a similar property, the heat from which accumulates under the arch. But in the conditions of Swedish houses, it was not possible to build something of such size. Therefore, in the Swedish stove, the combustion part was created in the form of a kind of cap, which was responsible for the chemical afterburning of the fuel. The flame from the combustion of wood did not touch the oven - it became heated under the influence of the first heat. Within a few minutes after kindling, enough heat accumulated in the metal oven to warm everyone in the room when the door was opened. Flue gases in the Swedish design do not go up, but down, so the stove begins to heat up from the floor level. Another part of the Swedish brick stove is the upper niche, indicated in the figure by the number 3. The niche has a fairly spacious space; it heats up from both the first and second heat, as well as from the heat of dying coals. In Scandinavian houses, wet clothes were dried in the upper niche, using a special rope for this purpose and hanging the laundry. Overnight the fabric became completely dry. Number 2 in the figure indicates another element of the Swede - a niche above the stove. This niche was closed at night with a wooden lid; food prepared in the evening could be placed inside, and by morning it would still be warm. With the first heat from the morning fire, food could be quickly heated to a hot state. The smoke circulation in a Swedish oven is a simple design in the form of a flow window located at the bottom of the oven. To prevent the stove from cooling down quickly, after lighting it, it was very important not to forget to close the view. The heat accumulator in the design was arranged according to the channel principle. It was heated by the second heat and the heat of the dying coals. The channels in the classic Swede are located vertically, which is why the furnace does not heat up strongly enough in the lower part, but much less soot accumulates in this design. In principle, you can build a Swedish stove with horizontal channels - it will heat better, but you will also have to clean it more often. The efficiency of the Swedish stove is almost equal to that of the Russian stove, and the cost of the Swedish design is not much higher than the Dutch one. The undoubted advantage of the Swede is its very high heat transfer. For example, if you take the same amount of materials from which a Dutch oven with a heat output of 2500 Kcal/hour is constructed, then you can build a Swede stove with a heat output of 3500 Kcal/hour. In addition, the latter option will have to be melted no more than 2 times a day. The Swedish design makes it possible to cook food in the same way as in a Russian oven, but during the cooking process you do not have to use a grip. The main requirements when building a Swedish house are high quality materials and fittings used, accuracy and precision in work, strict adherence to all rules and subtleties. Do-it-yourself Swedish oven List of required materials and tools To construct a Swedish stove in your home, you will need the following materials: Fireclay brick, which contains 80% refractory clay. Since the temperature inside the structure can reach very high levels, ordinary brick will not withstand the load, will begin to crumble and collapse, and this will increase the fire hazard of the furnace. Clay that will be used for laying bricks. The reliability and durability of the structure will directly depend on the quality of such a solution. In order to choose the right clay and prepare a solution from it, you need to carefully study this issue or take the advice of experienced stove makers. Metal parts are integral attributes of any stove. Dampers, latches and doors ensure normal operation of the Swede. Such elements are made of cast iron; in addition, such fittings often have decorative functions, giving the stove a certain style. Important details in the construction of a swedish are also metal corners, sheet metal, tires and reinforcing mesh. To decorate the finished structure and give it a beautiful finished look, you will need certain finishing materials. As a rule, clay mortar, plaster or lime are used to finish a Swedish stove. The list of tools required for work includes the following: Master OK; bayonet shovel; metal sieve, the size of the sieve cells should not exceed 1-2 mm; plumb line; hammer; building level; container for preparing masonry mortar. Furnace laying process A Swedish stove, like any similar structure, is assembled according to a specific pattern, which describes in detail the rules for laying rows. Let's take a closer look at the order of the Swedish stove: The foundation of the structure is laid out from two continuous rows of red bricks, which are installed in a horizontal position. Using a square, you need to check the accuracy of the angles made. On the 3rd row, it is necessary to provide for the laying of the ash chamber, the installation of the door, the laying of the lower chamber of the furnace, as well as the bases of the channels. This level of ordering is also made of red brick, while the blower is made of fire-resistant elements. Row 4 provides for the further formation of previously laid structural parts: vertical channels, ash chamber, bottom heating chamber. It is necessary, as before, to lay out the blower from refractory bricks, and the remaining elements are made of red. At the level of rows 3 and 4, the channels are interconnected. In the 5th row, the laying process begins from left to right. At this level, the ash door is closed and the ash chamber is finally formed. When installing a grate, be sure to take into account the expansion of the metal due to heating of the furnace. To do this, a small gap of 1.2-1.6 cm wide is left between the masonry and the grate. This gap is filled with sand. The Swede's ash pan is lined with fireclay, and all other elements continue to be formed from red brick. On the 6th row, the base of the firebox is laid and a door is equipped for it. An oven is installed on the same level. A wall is made of fireclay between the fuel chamber and the oven; the rest of the masonry continues to be made of red brick. The previously connected vertical channels are separated at this level. 3 are made from one U-shaped channel. Row 7 involves the further formation of a firebox made of refractory bricks. On the 8th row, the firebox continues and the first vertical channel is closed. Row 9 is located at the top level of the firebox door. So that the smoke from the combustion chamber smoothly passes into the chimney, on the 9th row the bricks from the bottom and top are cut at an angle. On the 10th row, the inner part of the oven is formed from fireclay, and at the same level the oven door is closed. Just as in the case described above, the bricks are cut at an angle. When laying this row, there is no wall between the firebox and the oven. The finished 9th row is leveled strictly horizontally, after which a hob is installed on top of it. When installing the stove, you should provide a cutout with a small margin, approximately 1.2-1.6 cm, since the metal will expand when the oven heats up. A metal corner 45x45 cm is installed flush with the outer wall of the structure. On the 11th row they begin to lay out the cooking chamber. The hole to the right of the slab is filled with brick. The row is made of red brick. At this same level, a door is sometimes installed so that the cooking chamber can be used as a second oven. The 12th row is formed from red brick. At this stage of work, the left vertical channels are combined into one. The 13th row is performed by analogy with the previous one, but during the installation process the vertical channel is again divided into two parts. The 14th and 15th rows are laid out similarly to the previous one; red brick is used in the work. On the 16th row you can block the cooking chamber. For this, metal corners measuring 45x45 cm are used. The level is made according to the same pattern as the previous rows. On the 17th row, the cooking chamber is blocked. To ensure that steam has somewhere to escape during cooking, when closing the chamber, you need to leave a hole the size of half a brick. The 18th row is carried out according to the ordering scheme; at this level a safety metal corner is laid, which will serve as a reinforcing element of the lower part of the drying chambers. In row 19, exhaust ventilation from the cooking chamber is formed, and drying chambers are also installed during operation. In rows 20 and 21, the installation of the furnace continues in the same way as the previous level. Row 22 is performed according to the same scheme, but at this level the smaller drying chamber is covered with a metal plate. On the 23rd row, the drying chambers are completely formed and the place where the exhaust duct valve will be located is prepared. In row 24, the first and second vertical channels are connected. When laying the 25th row, the hood is combined with the third vertical channel. The 26th row is formed according to the order rules. The chambers for drying clothes are covered with a metal corner and an overlap is made over it. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the structure. In the 27th row, the upper part of the Swede is completely closed, leaving only the third vertical channel open. During the work, the perimeter of the masonry should be increased by about 3-4 cm. In the 28th row, a side is formed on the stove and the perimeter is increased by another 3-4 cm. When completing the 29th row, the perimeter is returned to the previous values. On the 30th row, the base of the pipe is laid; a place is provided in the masonry for installing a valve. The further work process is aimed at forming a pipe of the required height. To prevent the bricks from absorbing the moisture contained in the clay mortar, they must be wetted before work. When laying bricks, it is important to monitor the thickness of the seam - this figure should not exceed 5 mm. After completing each row, you should check the verticality of the corner bricks so that the structure is smooth and strictly rectangular. If you equip the firebox door on the end side of the stove, then loading firewood into the stove will be easier. To make the doors hold more securely, they can be additionally reinforced with wire and its free ends can be hidden in a clay solution during installation. The finished stove should be dried. If it was laid out in the summer, the structure will dry naturally, but in winter you can use a fan and then heat the stove for 2 weeks. Swedish stove, photo: