Convenient stand for a jigsaw with your own hands. Universal workbench for a jigsaw: reviews Materials and fasteners
Among screwdriver malfunctions, there are several characteristic ones that are typical for devices from leading manufacturers and cheaper models:
The screwdriver does not turn on;
- during operation, extraneous whistles and creaks are heard;
- strong runout of the clamping chuck;
- speed is not regulated;
- reverse does not switch;
- after the button is turned off, the engine continues to rotate;
- the screwdriver turns on for a split second and jams.
Screwdriver design: 1 - speed controller, 2 - reverse, 3 - speed controller transistor screwed to the radiator, 4 - electric motor, 5 - gearbox.
Read about the device of a screwdriver in the article.
Some spare parts (motor, gearbox, switch, etc.) for the most popular models can be purchased (it’s better to buy through an online store, as the price may be higher in a regular store of this network).
The screwdriver may not turn on for three main reasons: the battery is faulty (not charged), the power button is faulty, the motor brushes are worn out, or the armature itself has burned out (very rarely).
Battery. Checking the battery is carried out by simply measuring at its terminals DC voltage any tester. The output voltage of a working charged battery must correspond to that indicated on the case - 12V, 18V, etc. Otherwise, the battery must be replaced. It may also be faulty Charger screwdriver.
Speed controller and reverse. Checking the screwdriver speed controller is done with a multimeter in circuit continuity mode. It should be noted that if the button is fully pressed, the contacts in it close and voltage is supplied to the engine (reverse) directly, excluding the speed controller circuit. Two wires from the battery come to the button, after which two wires are connected to the engine through the reverse contacts. The power button may also have three wires for connecting the control element ( field effect transistor), which is placed outside the body. To test the continuity, the probes are connected to the input and one of the engine wires (if possible, to the reverse input contacts) alternately, then the button is pressed all the way. The device shows the presence or absence of contact, after which the second input wire is measured. We move the reverse lever and repeat the measurements. If there is no contact, the button changes.
Repairing a screwdriver button with your own hands is possible, but only if you have certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the case, many switching parts will simply fall out of the case. This can be prevented only by smoothly lifting the cover initially and sketching the location of the contacts and springs. If darkened contacts are detected, they are cleaned with sandpaper. After assembly, repeated measurements are taken and if the results are positive (there is contact), the button is installed in its original place.
It should be noted right away that if, after repairing the button, the screwdriver motor starts working when the button is fully pressed, and when the button is pressed smoothly, the speed adjustment does not occur, then the reason should be sought in the adjustment circuit. Most screwdriver repairs in this case come down to replacing the entire button.
If there is no reverse, you need to replace the reverse switch or try to repair it. To do this, open the switch cover and, as in the case of a button, carefully lift it. We check the contacts, clean and assemble. If the contacts are burnt or deformed, the reverse must be replaced. There are options for buttons in which the reverse is assembled inside the button body; in this case, the entire button is changed.
If, when you release the button, the engine continues to spin, but before it did not spin, in this case you need to pay attention to the speed controller, namely the control transistor. Either the entire button or the transistor should be replaced.
Electric motor. If all of the above operations have shown that the elements are in good condition, then it is necessary to check the condition of the motor brushes. To do this, the motor is disconnected from the button, and the multimeter probes are connected to the motor wires. The absence of low resistance in the circuit indicates wear of the brushes, but armature breakage (winding breakage) should not be ruled out, although this happens very rarely. Usually, in this case, the entire motor is replaced, but if the brushes are worn out, it is possible to restore the screwdriver motor yourself. Some motors can have brushes replaced without disassembling the motor. For others, it is necessary to separate the rear motor cover with brushes from the motor housing.
To do this, it is necessary to bend the lid folding, but in such a way that the edges do not break off, since they will need to be returned to their place after assembly. The flexible wire of the brushes is connected to the holder using spot welding, but the wires of new brushes can be soldered, but only with refractory solder, for example POS-60. Before assembling the engine, the brushes are removed in the brush holder with a thin wire clamp, the cover is put in place and the wires are pulled out, thereby releasing the brushes. Next, go around the edges of the case to press the back cover tightly.
Extraneous whistles and creaks during operation of the screwdriver can be caused by wear of the armature bushings or a detached magnet that is in contact with the armature. In the first case, you can extend the life of the engine if you drop a drop of precision instrument oil on the bushings, and then turn on the engine so that the oil disperses through the bushings themselves. This method can only extend the life of the engine, but over time you will still have to replace it.
Gearbox. Long-term operation of the screwdriver under heavy loads and lateral pressure causes the gearbox shaft onto which the chuck is screwed to become bent, and strong beating appears when the screwdriver is operating. The support sleeve or bearing of this shaft may also wear out. If only the bushing or bearing is damaged and the shaft is not bent, then you can try to replace only the worn parts.
It may happen that the engine starts for a split second and stops abruptly. Everything points to a breakdown in the gearbox, usually a breakdown of the pin on which the satellite is attached. You can try to replace the carrier or the entire gearbox. Gearbox failure often occurs due to wear of gear teeth. Detailed description Read the screwdriver gearbox device.
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Before this, the jigsaw was used only in rough cutting areas or for cutting sheet material. I worked with large saws several times and each time I wondered why they were needed at all, if they were always taken away decently. But if you place a jigsaw on a table, its functionality increases significantly. It turns out that a jigsaw can replace (as far as possible) a circular saw, a band saw, grinding machine for delicate work. I saw the design on a blog markellov , for which I thank him very much! I placed my version on a folding workbench. Table size 36x36 cm. The table itself is made of 12 mm plywood. The machine is completely disassembled and stored in a cabinet. The guide is fixed with 2 wing screws.
Blocks under the table for fixing the entire device to the workbench, and also allow you to place fasteners for the upper guide support.
The jigsaw is fixed to the table with just one screw. To do this, I chose a quarter of the thickness of the platform in an oak block. In the other block, the quarter was made at an angle of more than 90 degrees and the platform fits into it with a wedge, so displacement during work in all 4 directions is excluded.
I saw it on the net Incredible quality of workmanship table, but for this you need to try very, very hard. There are also ready The bourgeoisie has a solution, but as I understand it, this is most likely for some very minor work. The top guide bracket is height adjustable to accommodate different blades. I thought for a long time about how to make it with a high degree of rigidity and at the same time avoid its bulkiness. Since the device itself does not have side walls that could serve as a support for the bracket, I had to tinker a little. There is a pine block in the center, a T-shaped steel profile is screwed to it and the whole thing is covered with 12 mm plywood, which provides rigidity to the upper guide. This is what ended up happening.
A unit for fixing the edge of the blade, like in a band saw, allows you to work with long blades without moving to the side. The option with bearings initially seemed to me the most workable, but then I still chose the option with oak guides. On wide blades like band saws, the use of bearings is more justified, but here it is more convenient to adjust the gap between the blades by moving inserts like these.
The result is a fairly compact machine for small sawing jobs. Now you can cut cabrioles too. The height of the cut depends on the length of the blade.
P.S.: MAIN, what needs to be taken into account when working with a jigsaw in this position is the tossing of the part during operation, since the saw teeth in this case “look” up. It is necessary to fix the part from above, like in sewing machines. In my case, the bracket lowers and the lower part of the guide assembly prevents the workpiece from jumping. Perhaps over time I will make a fixing foot.
Today I will tell you how to make a stand for a jigsaw, it is easy to make and convenient to use, it can be used both when working with a jigsaw and for storing it. Do-it-yourselfers who often work with a jigsaw know that this tool is very inconvenient to place on a workbench or table, as well as to take it for further work due to the file protruding from the base, which can break if you place the jigsaw in the wrong way, and you also experience inconvenience when you have to turn the hand inside out to pick up or put down the tool. However, this idea of a stand is not always necessary, since not everyone works with a jigsaw for a large amount of time, but periodically, for this reason you can endure all the inconveniences. But if the amount of work is large or your jigsaw is quite powerful and heavy, then using it is also not always convenient and easy, and this leads to increased hand fatigue, which significantly reduces the quality of work.
In order to make a homemade comfortable stand we will need:
* A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long.
* Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.
* Pencil, tape measure and square.
* Shilo.
* Jigsaw with a file for curved cutting.
* Screwdriver and metal drill with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm.
* Wood crown with a diameter of 28 mm.
* Figured bit RN2 for tightening screws.
* A 20mm wrench that will help you tighten and unscrew the nuts on your wood hole saw.
* Sandpaper.
Preliminary calculations and consideration of the convenience of the product.
First, you need to build a drawing of the future part, we do this in the 3D compass program, one important point can be seen from the drawing, that the idea used here is to make a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would be possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. But the point is that it is much more convenient and faster to insert a file into the wedge-shaped slot while installing the jigsaw on the stand, which also does not require any aiming for this. The relationship here is direct: the wider the wedge of the slot at the base, the more convenient it is to install the jigsaw. Also, if you make a wedge that is too wide at the base, which is wider than the jigsaw slide, then the stability of the jigsaw will be much lower, which can cause it to tip over. In this regard, it is more profitable to choose the best option, that is, make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to place the jigsaw on the stand without losing the reliability of its stability.
The author chose the size of the width of the base of the slot at his own discretion, which became equal to about 78 mm. In reality, this is quite enough to conveniently place the jigsaw on the stand without fear of it falling back. If you set yourself such an idea, then select the specified size in the drawings accordingly, comparing it with the width of the slide of your jigsaw.
The next important point is the front and back of the stand, made in a semicircle. The purpose of this particular shape is the best aesthetic appearance, so if you want to focus on this, you can easily make the shape of the stand rectangular.
Well, we’ve sorted out the main nuances, now let’s begin the assembly process.
Step one.
Before picking up the tool, we need to draw the markings of the workpiece according to the drawing. Considering that the length of our future stand will be only 20 cm, then to cut it out it is necessary to take a little more (15-20 cm), and this is done so that the workpiece can be firmly fixed for further processing.
To show curved surfaces on a workpiece with a pencil, take any round object of large diameter. In this case, it is a plastic jar for storing small items.
Step two.
We fix the workpiece in the clamps and cut a hole in it with a hole saw or, as it is called, a crown clamped in a screwdriver chuck.
Step three.
This stand will have special legs, in order to be at the maximum height, which will prevent the jigsaw file from breaking on the surface, we drill blind holes for these legs.
Step four.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out the drawn wedge along the contour and then cut out the excess parts of the stand. Working with a jigsaw is quite dangerous, so be careful and use safety precautions such as protective gloves and glasses.
Step five.
We arm ourselves with sandpaper and grind the surface to a smooth state, which should not have burrs or depressions, after which we tighten the screws into the smooth surface of the workpiece; in this case, they serve as legs.
On this homemade stand ready, we put a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand stable, we adjust the screws, which are also the legs.
A garage is a multifunctional space. In it you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage doing repair work, he needs to properly equip his workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out metalworking, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can consider shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that wooden surface may leave marks.
Also, when processing metal parts, force and the use of sharp tools are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.
Woodworking benches are designed for working with wood, so they are not as durable or functional as bench models.
Workbench design
If the design of a work table for a garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think through every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the garage table depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the table design can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Grinder with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding work.
Materials
Angle 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Angle 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for tabletop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for the table top. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for making drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm
Guides for desk drawers.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: table length 220 cm, width - 75 cm. The overall design and large tabletop allow you to place a vice and, for example, emery or other tools at different ends of the table.
The first step in making a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. Profile pipe intended for the manufacture of frames. The steel angle is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. This material will also be used for brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.
Table drawers are made of plywood.
The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The tabletop elements are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the tabletop, it is necessary to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will serve as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power bridges are welded between the legs to strengthen the structure.
Once the basic frame is ready, you can begin welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel angles, 2200 mm long, and two more angles, 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards fit inside it.
The angle frame is laid on a pipe frame and welded. The result is a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, all that remains is to weld the panel sheathing for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The tool panel is welded to the tabletop.
The frame of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.
The fourth stage is making drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are screwed together with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the parts are small, then you can build 3 drawers; if the parts are large, then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
You can place drawers on both sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and regular open shelves on the other.
After the drawers are assembled, you need to weld metal strips with holes between the sides of the drawer compartments. The slides for the drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.
The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards 50 mm thick are cut into pieces of a certain length. If you have a long board available, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If long boards is not available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 pieces 740 mm long.
Before laying the wood into the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weather-resistant and anti-corrosion coating option. You need to paint especially carefully welding seams. Drops of metal and uneven surfaces are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.
After the structure has dried, you can begin laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that wood tends to expand and dry out when temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. The boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is fastening the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden screws to wooden boards. The metal must first be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal tabletop with the same paint that was used to cover the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look very new.
The last stage is installing the drawers on the guides and attaching the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing the workbench. After work with plywood is completed, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, from which the necessary things will be hung.
To make it convenient to work at a workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bendable stand to the power panel. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vice on a bench
A vice is an indispensable attribute of a mechanic's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool that weighs several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket 1 cm thick between the metal of the table and the tool. You need to drill holes in the gasket for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the tabletop. The entire structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design
- If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a table for plumbing work with your own hands smaller size. But it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized so that nothing disturbs a person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the tabletop.
- Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp or have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench you need to clear the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
- If a homemade workbench is made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Plywood for board
Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage
Hello to all DIY lovers!
Anyone who often has to work with a jigsaw knows that it is very inconvenient to place a jigsaw on a workbench or table, and it is also inconvenient to take it for work later due to the fact that the jigsaw has a file protruding from the bottom.
As a result, the jigsaw always has to be placed on its side, twisting the hand, and also at the risk of hitting the saw on the workbench, which can lead to its breakage. In the same way, you have to twist your hand and take it. Of course, this doesn’t really matter if you don’t have to work with the jigsaw very much, since in this case you can be patient. However, if the amount of work is large, and also if your jigsaw is quite powerful and heavy, then this inconvenience is significantly annoying and leads to rapid fatigue working hand and significantly reduces the quality of work.
To solve this problem, I decided to make a special stand, quite simple to make.
Below is a drawing of this stand.
From the drawing, I think everything is quite clear, however, I want to clarify one important point, in my opinion.
As you can see from the drawing, I made a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would have been possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. But the fact is that it is much more convenient to insert a file into the wedge-shaped slot, wide at the base, while installing the jigsaw on the stand, as they say, without “aiming” and without being distracted from work. Moreover, the wider the wedge of the slot at the base, the more convenient it is to place the jigsaw on the stand. At the same time, if you make a wedge wide enough at the base, which is wider than the jigsaw slide, then the jigsaw will stand unstable and may even tip over backwards. Therefore, in this case, it is better to choose the golden mean, that is, make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to place the jigsaw on the stand, and so that it stands securely.
For example, I (as can be seen from the drawing) chose the size of the width of the base of the slot to be approximately 78 mm. As practice has shown, this is quite enough for it to be convenient to place the jigsaw on the stand, and for it to stand securely and firmly on it. If you decide to make the same stand, choose the specified size depending on the width of the slide of your jigsaw.
One more point I want to note. As you can see in the drawing, I made the front and back of the stand semicircular. But I decided to do this only for beauty, so if you want to simplify the task a little, you can just make the stand rectangular.
So, let's finally start making the stand.
Materials and tools
For this we need the following accessories:Materials and fasteners:
A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long;
Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.
Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square);
A jigsaw with a file for shaped cutting;
Electric drill-screwdriver;
Metal drill with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm;
Hole saw for wood (wood crown) with a diameter of 28 mm;
Screwdriver bit RN2, for driving screws;
20 mm wrench, for tightening and unscrewing the nut of a wood hole saw;
Sandpaper.
Manufacturing process
To begin with, as always, we mark the blank board of our stand according to the drawing. By the way, it should be noted that although the length of our future stand is only 20 cm, nevertheless, the length of the workpiece board must be taken a little longer (15-20 cm) in order to conveniently secure the workpiece during its processing.
In order to mark curved surfaces on the workpiece, you can use any round object of sufficiently large diameter. For example, I took a plastic jar in which I store various small items.
Then we drill blind holes from the bottom of the workpiece for the leg screws.
Then we cut out a wedge in the workpiece with a jigsaw, and then we cut out the entire stand.
We sand the stand with sandpaper and screw the leg screws into it.
And now our stand is ready.
We place a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand stably, we adjust the screws that act as legs.
Moreover, we can even give the stand a slight tilt back if we screw in the rear leg screws a little deeper. In my opinion, it will be more convenient.
You can use this stand both while working and to store the jigsaw somewhere on a shelf or rack.
And finally, I want to give important advice for those who want to make the same stand. The fact is that the height of the stand must be selected depending on the length and, accordingly, on the amount of overhang of the file you are using. For example, I almost always (with rare exceptions) use a saw for figure cutting on wood. The length of the working part of such a file is 50 mm, and the maximum overhang is about 50 mm. Therefore, the stand height of 60 mm is quite enough for me. If, for example, a jigsaw accidentally turns on while it is standing on a stand, then the saw at maximum reach will not reach the workbench on which the stand stands by a full centimeter. Accordingly, it will not break or damage the workbench.
If you use longer files, then naturally you need to increase the height of the stand. Moreover, this is very easy to do if you use longer screws with a press washer as the legs of the stand, say 80-100 mm long. These screws are available in wide range sizes, and you can buy them at any hardware store.
Well, that's probably all. All the best and bye!
