Power supply circuit for fluorescent lamps of table lamps. Connection diagrams for fluorescent lamps without a choke and starter

In the context of constant growth of tariffs for the use of electricity, the population's demand for more economical fluorescent lamps (fluorescent lamps) has increased significantly.

There are quite a lot of options for them appearance, however, they are all built the same inside.

Inside glass flask, whatever form it may be, there are:

1. Inert gas with mercury vapor.
2. Spiral electrodes. Luminescent coating (luminophor) applied to the walls of the flask.

The operating principle is as follows: Under the influence of electric current, the spirals (electrodes) heat up and ignite the gas, under the influence of which the phosphor begins to glow.

Due to the limited size of the electrodes, the household power supply voltage is not enough to ignite them. Therefore, to ignite the electrodes, a special element is used - a choke. In addition, in order to avoid overheating of the spiral, another element is used - which, after igniting the gas, turns off the heating of the electrodes.

Structurally, the inductor (EMPRA) is an inductor with a special ferromagnetic core. As a rule, the coil with the core is placed in a metal case.

Operating principle

Operating principle of a fluorescent lamp

At the moment of switching on, the starter starts working first. It heats up the bimetallic electrodes, causing them to short circuit. After this, the current in the circuit, limited only by the internal resistance of the inductor, increases sharply (more than 3 times). The electrodes of the lamp instantly heat up, and the bimetallic contacts of the starter, when cooled, open the starting circuit.

At the moment the electrical circuit in the electronic ballast breaks, due to the self-induction effect, a high-voltage pulse (800-1000 V) occurs, which provides an electrical discharge in an inert gas environment.

Under the influence of this discharge, an invisible ultraviolet glow of mercury vapor begins, which, acting on the phosphor, causes it to glow in the visible spectrum.

In further work, electricity is evenly distributed between the inductor and the lamp, thus ensuring stable operation. At the same time, the ballast does not consume energy, but only accumulates it and converts it.

After igniting the gas, the voltage in the flask does not exceed half the mains voltage, which is not enough for the subsequent closure of the starter contacts. Thus, with a stable glow, the starter does not participate in the working process and its contacts remain open.

Gas ignition does not always happen the first time. Sometimes the starter needs 5-6 attempts to repeat the above process, which causes a “blinking” effect that is unpleasant for the human eye.

This effect can be avoided by using the so-called electronic choke (ECG), the operating principle of which is as follows:

1. Low frequency voltage household power supply is converted to DC.
2. Received constant pressure inverted into high-frequency (up to 133 kHz) alternating voltage.
3. When connecting electronic ballasts there is a sharp increase in current and voltage to values ​​sufficient to warm up the electrodes and cause a gas discharge.
4. After the phosphor begins to glow, the voltage on the electrodes decreases to the value of the glow voltage, and the pulse frequency changes to the level at which the current of the nominal value is established.

The use of electronic ballast allows you to ignite the electrodes instantly and at the same time get rid of the unpleasant “blinking”.

Kinds

There are several ways to classify ballasts used in fluorescent lamp connection diagrams.

At the same time, they are distinguished by:

1. Operating principle:
   • EmPRA(electromagnetic chokes);
   • electronic ballasts(electronic ballasts);
2. According to the level of power loss (the level of inductor energy loss can be from 15 to 100% of the lamp power):
   • D(ordinary);
   • WITH(reduced);
   • IN(especially low);
3. By sound noise level:
   • N(normal);
   • P(reduced);
   • WITH(very low);
   • A(especially low);

Connecting a fluorescent lamp

In general, the electronic ballast is connected to a fluorescent lamp using a series electrical circuit. In this case, the starter is connected in parallel with the lamp, and a compensation capacitor is connected in parallel with the electrical network, which serves to correct the power factor.

The electrical circuit for connecting an electronic ballast (EPG) to a fluorescent lamp is even simpler. There are no additional radio elements in it at all.

There are also a large number of electrical diagrams for connecting fluorescent lamps without a starter or any types of ballasts at all. Among them, the electric throttleless circuit is especially popular, the use of which does not change at all technical characteristics fluorescent lamp, but significantly extends its service life.

Malfunctions and repairs of electromagnetic ballasts

Most often, the source of malfunctions associated with the use of fluorescent lamps is electrical diagram turning on the ballast and starter.

It is quite difficult to instantly determine the cause of a malfunction, however, there are characteristic visual effects that make it possible to identify a faulty throttle among the reasons that caused the defect.

These visual effects include:

1. “Fire snake” curling around the flask. Its appearance indicates that the current in the lamp exceeds the permissible value, as a result of which the electrical discharge has become unstable. If, when checking the current-voltage characteristics of the lamp, inconsistencies with the specified parameters are revealed, then the inductor needs to be changed.
2. Darkening of the bulb in the area of ​​the output contacts. If the bulb in the base area has darkened, the lamp will soon fail. The main reason for this phenomenon is the discrepancy between the starting and operating current values ​​and the current-voltage characteristic. This is most often due to a faulty ballast.
3. Burnt out coils. Most often, the spirals in a fluorescent lamp burn out due to severe wear of the insulation of the EPG winding.
4. A burning smell or the appearance of extraneous sounds. There may be an interturn short circuit in the inductor.
5. The lamp does not turn on. The cause may also be a faulty ballast in which a wire in the winding has broken. True, this type of malfunction is rare.

It is best to check the throttle using a test light that is known to be working. To do this, you need to connect two wires coming from it to the base of the test lamp and turn this structure into electrical network. If the fluorescent lamp lights up at full strength, then the throttle is working.

Repair

It is recommended that independent repairs of ballasts be carried out only by specialists who have some experience in plumbing and electrical installation work. In addition, it is necessary to have measuring instruments and knowledge of basic safety regulations.

When starting to replace or repair the choke, you must disconnect the lamp from the power supply. Simply turning it off using a switch will not eliminate the presence of voltage on the lamp.

Only after this can you begin to dismantle the ballast and install a new one in its place. At the same time, you must carefully ensure that they are connected in the same order in which they were connected earlier.

IMPORTANT: Connection diagrams for specific models are printed on their cases. The operating voltage and electrical resistance inductance windings.

Using a Multimeter

On at a certain stage carrying out repair work, .

With its help you can determine:

1. Coil winding integrity inductance and its electrical resistance.
2. Presence of interturn short circuit.
3. Presence of a cliff in the winding of the inductor.

However, repairing the winding of an inductor is not an easy task and also requires certain skills. Therefore, if necessary, it is better to entrust such work to specialists.

Choosing a new ballast:

1. Need to pay Special attention to the manufacturer's brand. As a rule, purchasing a cheap product from an unknown manufacturer guarantees low quality workmanship. A reliable ballast must ensure reliable operation for at least 3 years.
2. You may accidentally purchase a defective product on the market. Therefore, if your budget allows, it is better to purchase several pieces and negotiate with the seller about the subsequent return of the remaining ones.
3. It is better to consult with people who have some experience with fluorescent lighting fixtures.

Currently, electronic ballasts, despite the relatively high price, are becoming increasingly popular.

After all, their use allows:

1. Increase the service life of fluorescent lamps due to the use of gentle start-up modes and further operation. In addition, the connection diagram does not include a starter that often breaks down.
2. Completely eliminate noise and blinking during operation.
3. Get up to 20% energy savings.

The switching circuit for fluorescent lamps is much more complex than that of incandescent lamps.
Their ignition requires the presence of special starting devices, and the life of the lamp depends on the quality of these devices.

To understand how launch systems work, you must first become familiar with the design of the lighting device itself.

A fluorescent lamp is a gas-discharge light source, the luminous flux of which is formed mainly due to the glow of a phosphor layer applied to the inner surface of the bulb.

When the lamp is turned on, an electronic discharge occurs in the mercury vapor that fills the test tube and the resulting UV radiation affects the phosphor coating. With all this, the frequencies of invisible UV radiation (185 and 253.7 nm) are converted into visible light radiation.
These lamps have low energy consumption and are very popular, especially in industrial premises.

Scheme

When connecting fluorescent lamps, a special starting and regulating technique is used - ballasts. There are 2 types of ballasts: electronic - electronic ballast (electronic ballast) and electromagnetic - electromagnetic ballast (starter and choke).

Connection diagram using electromagnetic ballast or electronic ballast (throttle and starter)

A more common connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp is using an electromagnetic amplifier. This starter circuit.

Operating principle: when the power supply is connected, a discharge appears in the starter and
the bimetallic electrodes are short-circuited, after which the current in the circuit of the electrodes and the starter is limited only by the internal resistance of the inductor, as a result of which the operating current in the lamp increases almost three times and the electrodes of the fluorescent lamp instantly heat up.
At the same time, the bimetallic contacts of the starter cool down and the circuit opens.
At the same time, the choke breaks, thanks to self-induction, creates a triggering high-voltage pulse (up to 1 kV), which leads to a discharge in the gas environment and the lamp lights up. After which the voltage on it will become equal to half of the mains voltage, which will not be enough to re-close the starter electrodes.
When the lamp is on, the starter will not participate in the operating circuit and its contacts will and will remain open.

Main disadvantages

• Compared to a circuit with electronic ballast, electricity consumption is 10-15% higher.

• Long start-up of at least 1 to 3 seconds (depending on lamp wear)

• Inoperability when low temperatures environment. For example, in winter in an unheated garage.

• The stroboscopic result of a flashing lamp, which has a bad effect on vision, and the parts of machine tools rotating synchronously with the mains frequency appear motionless.

• The sound of the throttle plates humming, growing over time.

Switching diagram with two lamps but one choke. It should be noted that the inductance of the inductor must be sufficient for the power of these two lamps.
It should be noted that in sequential circuit When turning on two lamps, 127-volt starters are used; they will not work in a single-lamp circuit, for which 220-volt starters are needed

This circuit, where, as you can see, there is no starter or throttle, can be used if the filaments of the lamps have burned out. In this case, the LDS can be ignited using step-up transformer T1 and capacitor C1, which will limit the current flowing through the lamp from a 220-volt network.

This circuit is suitable for the same lamps whose filaments have burned out, but here there is no need for a step-up transformer, which clearly simplifies the design of the device

But such a circuit using a diode rectifier bridge eliminates the flickering of the lamp at the mains frequency, which becomes very noticeable as it ages.

or more difficult

If the starter in your lamp has failed or the lamp is constantly blinking (along with the starter if you look closely under the starter housing) and there is nothing at hand to replace it, you can light the lamp without it - enough for 1-2 seconds. short-circuit the starter contacts or install button S2 (caution of dangerous voltage)

the same case, but for a lamp with a burnt-out filament

Connection diagram using electronic ballast or electronic ballast

An electronic ballast (EPG), unlike an electromagnetic one, supplies the lamps with a high-frequency voltage from 25 to 133 kHz rather than the mains frequency. And this completely eliminates the possibility of lamp flickering noticeable to the eye. The electronic ballast uses a self-oscillator circuit, which includes a transformer and an output stage using transistors.

(or as we are used to calling them Daylight lamp) are ignited by a discharge created inside the flask.
If anyone is interested in learning about the structure of such a lamp - about their advantages and disadvantages, then you can look into.

In order to obtain a high-voltage discharge, special devices are used - ballast chokes controlled by a starter.
It works something like this: inside the lamp fittings there is a choke and a capacitor that form an oscillating circuit. A starter neon lamp with a small capacitor is installed in series with this circuit. When current passes through a neon lamp, an electrical breakdown occurs in it, the resistance of the lamp drops almost to zero, but it almost immediately begins to discharge through the capacitor. Thus, the starter opens and closes chaotically and chaotic oscillations occur in the throttle.
Due to the EMF of self-induction, these oscillations can have an amplitude of up to 1000 Volts, and they serve as a source of high-voltage pulses that light the lamp.

This design has been used in everyday life for many years and has a number of disadvantages - indefinite switching time, wear of lamp filaments and a huge level of radio interference.

As practice shows, in starter devices (a simplified diagram of one of them is shown in Fig. 1), the sections of the filaments to which the mains voltage is supplied are subject to the greatest heating. This is where the thread often burns out.

More promising - without starter ignition devices, where the filaments are not used for their intended purpose, but act as electrodes of a gas-discharge lamp - they are supplied with the voltage necessary to ignite the gas in the lamp.

Here, for example, is a device designed to power a lamp with a power of up to 40 W (Fig. 2). It works like this. The mains voltage is supplied through inductor L1 to the bridge rectifier VD3. During one of the half periods mains voltage capacitor C2 is charged through the zener diode VD1, and capacitor S3 is charged through the zener diode VD2. During the next half-cycle, the mains voltage is summed with the voltage on these capacitors, as a result of which the EL1 lamp lights up. After this, these capacitors are quickly discharged through the zener diodes and diodes of the bridge and subsequently do not affect the operation of the device, since they are not able to charge - after all, the amplitude voltage of the network is less than the total stabilization voltage of the zener diodes and the voltage drop across the lamp.

Resistor R1 removes the residual voltage on the lamp electrodes after turning off the device, which is necessary for safe replacement of the lamp. Capacitor C1 compensates for reactive power.

In this and subsequent devices, pairs of contacts of the connector of each filament can be connected together and connected to “their” circuit - then even a lamp with burnt-out filaments will work in the lamp.

A diagram of another version of the device, designed to power a fluorescent lamp with a power of more than 40 W, is shown in Fig. 3. Here the bridge rectifier is made using diodes VD1-VD4. And the “starting” capacitors C2, C3 are charged through thermistors R1, R2 with a positive temperature coefficient of resistance. Moreover, in one half-cycle, capacitor C2 is charged (through thermistor R1 and diode VD3), and in the other - SZ (through thermistor R2 and diode VD4). Thermistors limit the charging current of the capacitors. Since the capacitors are connected in series, the voltage across lamp EL1 is sufficient to ignite it.

If the thermistors are in thermal contact with the bridge diodes, their resistance will increase when the diodes heat up, which will reduce the charging current.

The inductor, which serves as a ballast resistance, is not necessary in the power devices under consideration and can be replaced with an incandescent lamp, as shown in Fig. 4. When the device is turned on, the lamp EL1 and thermistor R1 heat up. The alternating voltage at the input of the diode bridge VD3 increases. Capacitors C1 and C2 are charged through resistors R2, R3. When the total voltage across them reaches the ignition voltage of lamp EL2, the capacitors will quickly discharge - this is facilitated by diodes VD1, VD2.

By supplementing a conventional incandescent lamp with this device with a fluorescent lamp, you can improve general or local lighting. For a EL2 lamp with a power of 20 W, EL1 should be 75 or 100 W, but if EL2 is used with a power of 80 W, EL1 should be 200 or 250 W. In the latter option, it is permissible to remove the charge-discharge circuits from resistors R2, R3 and diodes VD1, VD2 from the device.

Some the best option to power a powerful fluorescent lamp - use a device with quadrupling the rectified voltage, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. 5. Some improvement of the device that increases the reliability of its operation can be considered the addition of a thermistor connected parallel to the input of the diode bridge (between points 1, 2 of node U1). It will provide a smoother increase in voltage on the parts of the rectifier-multiplier, as well as damping the oscillatory process in a system containing reactive elements (inductor and capacitors), and therefore reducing interference entering the network.

The devices considered use diode bridges KTs405A or KTs402A, as well as rectifier diodes KD243G-KD243Zh or others, designed for a current of up to 1 A and a reverse voltage of 400 V. Each zener diode can be replaced by several in series connected with a lower stabilization voltage. It is advisable to use a non-polar MBGCh type capacitor that shunts the network; the remaining capacitors are MBM, K42U-2, K73-16. It is recommended to bridge the capacitors with resistors with a resistance of 1 MOhm and a power of 0.5 W. The choke must correspond to the power of the fluorescent lamp used (1UBI20 - for a lamp with a power of 20 W, 1UBI40 - 40 W, 1UBI80-80W). Instead of one 40 W lamp, it is permissible to switch on two 20 W lamps in series.

Some of the assembly parts are mounted on a board made of one-sided foil fiberglass, on which areas are left for soldering the leads of the parts and connecting petals for connecting the assembly to the luminaire circuits. After installing the unit into a housing of suitable dimensions, it is filled with epoxy compound.

Fluorescent lamps from the very first releases and are partially still lit using electromagnetic ballasts - EMP. Classic version The lamp is made in the form of a sealed glass tube with pins at the ends.

What do fluorescent lamps look like?

Inside it is filled with an inert gas with mercury vapor. It is installed in cartridges through which voltage is supplied to the electrodes. An electric discharge is created between them, causing an ultraviolet glow, which acts on the phosphor layer applied to the inner surface of the glass tube. The result is a bright glow. The switching circuit for fluorescent lamps (LL) is provided by two main elements: electromagnetic ballast L1 and glow discharge lamp SF1.

LL connection diagram with electromagnetic choke and starter

Ignition circuits with electronic ballasts

A device with a throttle and starter works according to the following principle:

1. Supplying voltage to the electrodes. The current does not pass through the gaseous medium of the lamp at first due to its high resistance. It enters through the starter (St) (Fig. below), in which a glow discharge is formed. In this case, a current passes through the spirals of the electrodes (2) and begins to heat them up.
2. The starter contacts heat up, and one of them closes, since it is made of bimetal. The current passes through them and the discharge stops.
3. The starter contacts stop heating up, and after cooling, the bimetallic contact opens again. A voltage pulse occurs in the inductor (D) due to self-induction, which is sufficient to ignite the LL.
4. A current passes through the gaseous medium of the lamp; after starting the lamp, it decreases along with the voltage drop across the inductor. The starter remains disconnected, since this current is not enough to start it.

Fluorescent lamp connection diagram

Capacitors (C 1) and (C 2) in the circuit are designed to reduce the level of interference. A capacitance (C 1) connected in parallel to the lamp helps reduce the amplitude of the voltage pulse and increase its duration. As a result, the service life of the starter and LL increases. The capacitor (C 2) at the input provides a significant reduction in the reactive component of the load (cos φ increases from 0.6 to 0.9).

If you know how to connect a fluorescent lamp with burnt-out filaments, it can be used in an electronic ballast circuit after a slight modification of the circuit itself. To do this, the spirals are short-circuited and a capacitor is connected in series to the starter. According to this scheme, the light source will be able to work for some more time.

A widely used switching method is with one choke and two fluorescent lamps.

Switching on two fluorescent lamps with a common choke

2 lamps are connected in series between each other and the choke. Each of them requires the installation of a parallel connected starter. To do this, use one output pin at the ends of the lamp.

For LLs, it is necessary to use special switches so that their contacts do not stick due to high inrush current.

Ignition without electromagnetic ballast

To extend the life of burnt-out fluorescent lamps, you can install one of the switching circuits without a choke and starter. For this purpose, voltage multipliers are used.

Diagram for switching on fluorescent lamps without a choke

The filaments are short-circuited and voltage is applied to the circuit. After straightening, it increases 2 times, and this is enough for the lamp to light up. Capacitors (C 1), (C 2) are selected for a voltage of 600 V, and (C 3), (C 4) - for a voltage of 1000 V.

The method is also suitable for working LLs, but they should not work with power DC. After some time, mercury accumulates around one of the electrodes, and the brightness of the glow decreases. To restore it, you need to turn the lamp over, thereby changing the polarity.

Connection without starter

Using a starter increases the heating time of the lamp. However, its service life is short. Electrodes can be heated without it if secondary transformer windings are installed for this purpose.

Connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp without a starter

Where the starter is not used, the lamp has a quick start designation - RS. If you install such a lamp with a starter, its coils can quickly burn out, since they have a longer warm-up time.

Electronic ballast

Electronic ballast control circuitry has replaced older daylight sources to eliminate their inherent shortcomings. Electromagnetic ballast consumes excess energy, often makes noise, breaks down and damages the lamp. In addition, the lamps flicker due to the low frequency of the supply voltage.

Electronic ballast is the electronic unit, which takes up little space. Fluorescent lamps are easy and quick to start, without creating noise and providing uniform illumination. The circuit provides several ways to protect the lamp, which increases its service life and makes its operation safer.

The electronic ballast works as follows:

1. Warming up the LL electrodes. Start-up is quick and smooth, which increases lamp life.
2. Ignition - pulse generation high voltage piercing the gas in the flask.
3. Combustion is the maintenance of a small voltage on the lamp electrodes, which is sufficient for a stable process.

Electronic throttle circuit

First, the alternating voltage is rectified using a diode bridge and smoothed by a capacitor (C 2). A half-bridge generator is installed next high frequency voltage on two transistors. The load is a toroidal transformer with windings (W1), (W2), (W3), two of them are connected in antiphase. They alternately open the transistor switches. The third winding (W3) supplies resonant voltage to the LL.

A capacitor (C 4) is connected in parallel to the lamp. Resonant voltage is supplied to the electrodes and penetrates the gaseous environment. By this time the filaments have already warmed up. Once ignited, the lamp's resistance drops sharply, causing the voltage to drop sufficiently to maintain combustion. The startup process lasts less than 1 second.

Electronic circuits have the following advantages:

• start with any specified time delay;
• installation of a starter and a massive throttle is not required;
• the lamp does not blink or hum;
• high-quality light output;
• compactness of the device.

The use of electronic ballasts makes it possible to install it in the base of a lamp, which is also reduced to the size of an incandescent lamp. This gave rise to new ones energy saving lamps, which can be screwed into a regular standard cartridge.

During operation, fluorescent lamps age and require an increase in operating voltage. In the electronic ballast circuit, the ignition voltage of the glow discharge at the starter decreases. In this case, its electrodes may open, which will trigger the starter and turn off the LL. Then it starts again. Such blinking of the lamp leads to its failure along with the inductor. In an electronic ballast circuit, a similar phenomenon does not occur, since the electronic ballast automatically adjusts to changes in the parameters of the lamp, selecting a favorable mode for it.

Lamp repair. Video

Tips for repairing a fluorescent lamp can be obtained from this video.

LL devices and their connection circuits are constantly being developed in the direction of improving technical characteristics. It is important to be able to choose suitable models and use them correctly.

If an old Soviet lamp with fluorescent fluorescent lamps such as LB-40, LB-80 is out of order, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, recycling the lamps themselves (and you can’t just throw them in the trash for a long time), then you can easily convert to LED.

The most important thing is that fluorescent and LED lamps have the same bases - G13. Unlike other types of pin contacts, no modifications to the housing are required.

• G- means pins are used as contacts

• 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins

Benefits of remodeling

In this case you will receive:

• greater illumination

• lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)

• absence of vibration and unpleasant rattling sound from the ballast throttle

True, more modern models already use electronic ballast. They have increased efficiency (90% or more), noise has disappeared, but energy consumption and luminous flux have remained at the same level.

For example, new models of such LPO and LVO are often used for Armstrong ceilings. Here is a rough comparison of their effectiveness:

Another advantage of LEDs is that there are models designed for supply voltages from 85V to 265V. For fluorescent you need 220V or close to it.

For such LEDs, even if your network voltage is low or too high, they will start and shine without any complaints.

Luminaires with electromagnetic ballasts

What should you pay attention to when converting simple fluorescent lamps to LED lamps? First of all, its design.

If you have a simple old Soviet-style lamp with starters and an ordinary (not electronic ballast) choke, then in fact there is no need to modernize anything.

Just pull out the starter and select a new one to fit the overall size. LED lamp, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and more economical lighting.

If the starter is not removed from the circuit, then when replacing the LB lamp with an LED one, a short circuit can be created.

It is not necessary to dismantle the throttle. For an LED, the current consumption will be in the range of 0.12A-0.16A, and for a ballast, the operating current in such old lamps is 0.37A-0.43A, depending on the power. In fact, it will act as an ordinary jumper.

After all the rework, you still have the same lamp. There is no need to change the fixture on the ceiling, and you no longer have to dispose of burnt lamps and look for special containers for them.

Such lamps do not require separate drivers and power supplies, since they are already built-in inside the housing.

The main thing is to remember the main feature - for LEDs, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly connected to each other.

And with fluorescent they are connected by a filament. When it gets hot, mercury vapor ignites.

In models with electronic ballasts, a filament is not used and the gap between the contacts is pierced by a high voltage pulse.

The most common sizes of such tubes are:

• 300mm (used in table lamps)

• 900mm and 1200mm

The longer they are, the brighter the glow.

Conversion of a lamp with electronic ballast

If you have a more modern model, without a starter, with an electronic ballast throttle (electronic ballast), then you will have to tinker a little with changing the circuit.

What is inside the lamp before alteration:

• throttle

• wires

• contact blocks-cartridges on the sides of the case

The throttle is what will need to be thrown out first. Without it, the entire structure will significantly lose weight. Unscrew the mounting screws or drill out the rivets, depending on the fastener.

Then disconnect the power wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow blade.

You can use these wirings and just eat them with pliers.

The connection diagram for the two lamps is different; with the LED lamp everything is much simpler:

The main task that needs to be solved is to supply 220V to different ends of the lamp. That is, the phase is on one terminal (for example, the right one), and the zero is on the other (left).

It was said earlier that an LED lamp has both pin contacts inside the base, connected to each other by a jumper. Therefore, here it is impossible, as in a fluorescent one, to supply 220V between them.

To verify this, use a multimeter. Set it to resistance measurement mode, and touch the two terminals with the measuring probes and take measurements.

The display should display the same values ​​as when the probes are connected to each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).

A fluorescent lamp, between two terminals on each side, has a resistance filament, which, after applying a voltage of 220V through it, heats up and “starts” the lamp.

• without dismantling cartridges

• with dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts

Without dismantling

The easiest way is without dismantling, but you will have to buy a couple of Wago clamps.
In general, bite out all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, insert them into the same Vago clamp.

Do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the wago terminal block does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pieces.

After this, all that remains is to feed a phase into the clamp on one side and zero on the other.

No Vago, just twist the wires under the PPE cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing circuit, jumpers, get into the cartridge contacts, etc.

With dismantling the cartridges and installing jumpers

The other method is more scrupulous, but does not require any extra costs.

Filming side covers from the lamp. This must be done carefully, because... In modern products, the latches are made of brittle and breakable plastic.

After which, you can dismantle the contact cartridges. Inside them there are two contacts that are isolated from each other.

Such cartridges can be of several varieties:

All of them are equally suitable for lamps with G13 socket. There may be springs inside them.

First of all, they are needed not for better contact, but to ensure that the lamp does not fall out of it. Plus, due to the springs, there is some compensation for the length. Since it is not always possible to produce identical lamps with millimeter accuracy.

Each cartridge has two power cables. Most often, they are attached by snapping into special contacts without screws.

You turn them clockwise and counterclockwise, and with some force, pull one of them out.

As mentioned above, the contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And by dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave only one contact socket.

All current will now flow through the other contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you are making a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design a little by installing a jumper.

Thanks to it, you don’t have to make contact by turning the LED lamp from side to side. The double connector ensures a reliable connection.

The jumper can be made from the extra power wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely have left over as a result of the rework.

Using a tester, you check that after installing the jumper, there is a circuit between the previously isolated connectors. Do the same with the second plug-in contact on the other side of the lamp.

The main thing is to make sure that the remaining power wire is no longer phase, but zero. You bite off the rest.

Fluorescent lamps with two, four or more lamps

If you have a two-lamp lamp, it is best to supply voltage to each connector with separate conductors.

When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.

The second lamp will light only if the first one is installed in its place. Remove it, and the other one will go out immediately.

The supply conductors should converge on the terminal block, where you will have the following connected in turn: