home Heating radiators Proper digging of wells with your own hands: methods of digging in the country. We make our own house for a well with a gable roof. Stages of work on creating a well house

Proper digging of wells with your own hands: methods of digging in the country. We make our own house for a well with a gable roof. Stages of work on creating a well house

The need for specialists in digging water sources is constantly growing. However, you can do this work yourself. This article will reveal the main secrets of how to dig a well at home.

According to the Law of the Russian Federation dated February 21, 1992 N 2395-01 “On Subsoil”, Article 19 allows for drilling wells for one’s own purposes without any permits, provided that no more than 100 cubic meters of liquid from the aquifer rise to the surface per day, and that the source is not centralized.

That is, if you want to obtain water from a source solely for watering your garden, agricultural or household needs, drinking, etc., you do not need to obtain any permits for either a summer house or a private home.

How to find a place?

First you should search for water. The easiest way is to ask your neighbors. If they don't have a source, have they looked for it? If neighbors' attempts are unsuccessful, it will be impossible to find the liquid. You can determine the place where to dig yourself. If a source is present, then before looking for water personal plot, you should start from the following factors:

Terrain.
Soil type.
Climatic conditions.
Nature and plants.

How to determine where is the best place to dig?

Most The best way Finding liquid on a site is geological exploration. Having discovered a source or supposed place with water, you should not rush to dig, it is better to check its quality.

Does it have any aftertaste, is it cloudy or dirty, etc.

Advice: If you are digging a source for drinking water, it is recommended that you first send it to a laboratory for analysis. The test will be for: microbiology, inorganics, organics, herbicides, radionuclides and pesticides. You can check for fertilizers and petroleum products, iron and manganese.

landfills;
car washes;
swamps;
farms and pigsties;
tanks with sewage and the like.

If the soil in your area is rocky and there are large blocks, then setting up a mine will cause serious difficulties. For this purpose, geological exploration is carried out. This includes:

studying the nature of the soil and the characteristics of the local rock;
determining the depth of the source.

Finding water on your own property can make it easier to study the flora. For example, sedge, sedge, and coltsfoot grow mainly in damp areas. If the groundwater is high, you will see next trees: spruce, birch, alder. This may be the optimal location.

Important: The search should not be carried out in ravines, river banks, or gutters. In such places, fluid drainage is carried out artificially.

There is another popular way to search for water on your own site. For this, a slingshot made of willow branches is used. It is held in a vertical position, where it is close aquifer, you can feel the tension of the slingshot barrel in your hands. Instead of willow twigs, metal wire is also used, from which 2 equal L-shaped frames are made. If you hold them in a horizontal position with your elbow bent, the frames begin to move and cross where there is liquid.

Shaft depth

Conventionally, aquifers can be divided into several horizons. For a full-fledged well, it is enough to dig into the first one. Typically the depth ranges from 5 to 30 meters. Depending on how wells enter the aquifer, dacha wells are divided into 3 types (diagram below):

Perfect with sump (B).
Perfect (B).
Imperfect (A).

In the third case, water inflow is possible through the bottom and side walls. In the second case, exclusively through the walls, and as for the sump, the shaft will be located in the rock. Due to this, the fluid supply increases significantly.

Based on the characteristics of the soil in your area, you need to choose the most affordable technology method.

What time of year should you dig?

Is there a difference when it's better to dig? Yes. The ideal time of year is late summer and January. To cut a spring in winter, there must be frost for at least three weeks.

Digging during this period has its advantages:

The groundwater level is very low.
There is practically no perched water.
It is easy to calculate the debit, since at this time of year it is minimal.

If you plan to dig yourself, with your own hands, then you need to start in early August in order to be in time before the rainy season.

Important: the chosen time of year should be as dry and dry as possible.

Digging technique

Drilling is performed using several technologies:

open;
closed;
mine;
tubular.

Let's take a closer look at these types of wells.

Open

You can dig a mine open method. To do this, dig a hole of the required depth. The diameter of the shaft should be 20 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. After lowering the concrete products, they must be connected to each other. The joints are also sealed. The resulting space between the walls of the shaft and the ground is filled with earth.

Closed

A summer source can be made in a closed way. Before digging a well, it is necessary to prepare a hole in the ground up to 2 m deep. A reinforced concrete ring is carefully inserted into it.

As it deepens, the installed co-construction will gradually sink down. The second, third rings and so on are carefully mounted on top. The latter should rise above the soil level.

Important! As new rings are installed, all joints must be sealed.

Construction using this method requires certain skills.

Shakhtny

A shaft that should be strengthened to prevent soil from collapsing. Previously this was done using logs. Currently, the shaft or shaft is reinforced with concrete round rings. As a result, the source is protected from wastewater and pollution.

Tubular

Digging a well yourself using tubular technology is difficult. This method is suitable when the aquifer is located fairly close. Moreover, special equipment is used for digging, which costs a lot of money.

Features of digging technologies

Each of these digging techniques has its pros and cons. Various financial investments are also required. When digging openly, special equipment is required, which already increases the price of the entire project. In the case of closed technology, the cost of work will be cheap, since only the costs are required for the delivery of reinforced concrete rings. You can install them yourself as you go deeper.

As for the tubular method, it is the most expensive and technologically advanced. Well, the mining method is labor-intensive and requires special skills. Therefore, you may have to hire a specialist.

pros

Tools

The set of tools and materials may differ depending on what types of wells will be built.

Tools:

cable;
homemade winch;
buckets;
shovels with short handles;
ropes;
wheelbarrow;
hammer/drill;
carpentry tools (when working with wood);
jackhammer;
flashlight;
pump;
insurance;
level;
helmet.

Materials:

reinforced concrete rings;
cement;
sand.

Safety precautions

To build a well with your own hands, it is extremely important to follow certain precautions:

When digging, the head is protected by a helmet.
Bucket handles must be strong and reliable.
The rope for lifting the bucket must be strong.
The carabiner must be reliable.
From time to time you should check the carabiner, rope and handle on the bucket.
Digging is done one by one.
It is necessary to make sure that the ladder is reliable and durable.
Work should be carried out in strong, high and leak-proof shoes and overalls.
Reinforced concrete products must be installed very carefully.
The harness with the stone should be lifted slowly and carefully.
Insurance required.
If there is a gas leak, go upstairs immediately.
Keep children away from the work area.
Do not dump the raised soil closer than 3 meters from the hole.
Warn the digger about lifting and lowering objects.

Get multiple confirmations of water availability.
Pre-study the geology of the area.
It is best to start digging in winter time after frost for about three weeks, or even more.
Take a deep dive into the aquifer.
Make a hole one ring deeper than the neighbors.
It is best to connect the rings with staples.
At the bottom, install an aspen shield made of stones, sand.

Common Mistakes

A small number of rings.
If it is necessary to deepen the mine, then you should not dig in one ring from the outside, but rather clean the source.
If it is necessary to deepen, then the shaft is completely dug.
Avoid superficial restoration of joints. The seams should be completely cleaned of mortar.
If the old source is running, it is better to spend money on digging a new one.
Do not leave seams through which water can leak.
Do not abandon a dug mine without cover.

How to make a mine from concrete rings?

The process of making and installing rings with your own hands is a labor-intensive stage of work. Reinforced concrete wells are manufactured in the following sequence:

Marking is being carried out on the site.
The bottom is leveling out. A diameter of up to 1.5 m is enough.
The concrete well is immersed after excavation to the height of the ring using a tripod or winch.
The first ring is mounted, measurements are taken all the time.
As you go deeper, a second one is installed, and so on. Using a crowbar we level it.
The well can be sealed from the inside using a rubber band, which is placed in the gap between the rings. If there are loops, they bend inward.
A filter is installed at the bottom of the source.
Groundwater protection is carried out. Waterproofing is done using special mastics.
Before caulking the seams between the rings, you need to connect them with anchors.

Before you dig a well by hand, you need to have an accurate diameter. The pit for reinforced concrete wells should be 200 mm wider in width. While digging a hole, be sure to check the level; the shaft must be vertically level. As the hole is dug independently for the reinforced concrete rings, the soil gradually rises upward. Everything happens in stages, the bucket goes down and goes up the winch.

Advice: knowing how to dig a mine in a country house, you can handle all the work yourself. It is mandatory to protect the source from the penetration of groundwater.

If a boulder is encountered, it is removed if possible. Although in some cases the mine is filled up and arranged in another place.

How to seal seams: mine waterproofing

When the well is completely drilled and the rings are all in place, they need to be waterproofed from the inside. If it will be carried out in wet soils, then coating compounds are recommended.

For example, you can use bitumen mastic. She must treat the outside of the rings. This will significantly extend their service life. The joints are additionally coated from the inside.

Concrete shafts are often wrapped with roll insulation, such as dense polyethylene, as waterproofing. Film is much cheaper. However, it is used exclusively from the outside. You need to quickly dig around the rings in a circle and wrap them with film.

Important! The film will last for several years if you buy a durable one with reinforcement. But it is better to allocate a budget for coating insulation.

Some summer residents resort to additional waterproofing by making. This is especially true if clay rises to the surface when digging. It can be used by filling the well from the outside.

Useful video

Videos from professionals:

Conclusion

We looked at all the features of how to properly make a well. You found out when it is better to dig it with concrete rings. Different digging techniques were considered, you choose the most accessible one for yourself. Now, knowing how to build a well, you can get to work. We hope that this material was useful to you. In addition, we recommend watching a video about how many home craftsmen dig them.

Probably, each of us associates a well with a wooden frame, a gate and a bucket on an iron chain, a neatly folded gable roof and a peasant woman standing next to her with a rocker resting on her shoulders. It is unlikely that you will find something like this as soon as you dig a well in your dacha. No log house, no roof, just bare concrete rings. But everything is in your hands, since they are exactly what you will need when you start making your own house for a well. Don’t be alarmed, there is nothing complicated in this, you just need common sense and a powerful desire, coupled with knowledge of some of the features of the work, and now you are building your own little architectural miracle.

The main purpose of the design is to protect water from dirt, insects, branches, etc. You can, of course, simply cover the top of the well with some kind of lid, but bare concrete rings are unlikely to delight anyone (and it’s more difficult to collect water ), so the second function of the house is purely aesthetic. Moreover, such a house can be a whole work of architectural art and be the envy of your neighbors.

To install a log house, you can seek the help of professionals, but we know very well that things made with your own hands always bring more pleasure, and they also save a lot of money.

let's consider different designs houses, we will study their pros and cons, and also learn how to make a house for a well yourself.

Designs, diagrams and drawings

First, let's decide how many walls our house will have. You can choose a rectangular or hexagonal frame.

The tetrahedral version looks more traditional, but the hexagonal version also has its advantages. The design of such a log house will allow you to save space, it takes up less area and is well suited for small areas. Otherwise, it’s more a matter of taste; each option can be played up, decorated, decorated in its own way.

There are more simplified open-plan designs without walls. They perform their function just as well, but are easier to manufacture. Also, designs come in closed and open type. The closed structure differs in that it completely hides the well, while the open one consists of walls along the height of a concrete ring and a roof.

Self-installation

Typically, wood is used as the material for building a house. It is easy to process, durable and looks good. Both timber and logs are used to make sheathing. Bricks or cobblestones can be used to cover the above-ground part. This material goes well with wood.

List of building materials for all work:

A wooden beam, the cross-section of which is 5 x 5 cm, or logs for a log house (depending on the design).
Roofing material. It must be light, otherwise the supports may break.
Log for making a lifting mechanism.
Protective impregnation for wood, paint, varnish.
Metal hinges, handle, latch or other latch.
Nails, screws.
Metal corners and bushings.
Bucket, chain.
Door materials.

A general set of tools that you will need in any case:

To process logs we will need an electric planer, and for timber and boards - a jigsaw.
You also need to have a grinder.
Building level.
Roulette.
A hammer and preferably a nail puller.
Hacksaw.
Screwdriver Set.

Where the frame is installed depends on the design of the house. It’s easier to make a canopy or just a roof, in which case pouring a foundation will not be required.

As the foundation itself, concrete formwork or a tile base is usually used. You can use the well blind area, modifying it a little. Do not forget to take care of the drainage of rainwater in advance by using special gutters in the formwork for this purpose. It is also recommended to add a little liquid glass to the formwork solution to protect it from moisture and dampness, but this is not a necessary condition. Consider the size of the base so that when the house is ready, it will be convenient for you to collect water; the design should, first of all, be comfortable and practical.

Now let's look at a simpler and cheaper option for assembling from timber:

Four pieces of timber are cut for racks and eight for sheathing. We calculate how much timber is needed for the cladding and do the same. We treat the material with an antiseptic. Be sure to add insulation.
First, the lower sheathing and racks are assembled, then the upper. The level of the top sheathing should not be higher than the concrete ring. Then the cladding is done using a building level.
The racks are made from boards with a cross-section of half a centimeter. We make a gate in the same way as in the first option, wrap a chain around it and install the skate. If the roof is closed, the racks are attached to its frame.
Next, the roof is assembled according to approximately the same principle as in the version with a log house.

There is an even simpler type of house, it involves the presence of only two roof slopes and is made of boards.

How to make it:

Place four posts at pre-marked distances. Don't forget to treat the boards with impregnation.
Nail the boards at the top and bottom, connecting the posts.
Next, cut the rafters and fasten them at the top. Install a deadbolt for added strength. It is mounted thirty centimeters below the ridge point.
Cut a cut where the rafters will meet the top boards and fasten them to the frame. Install two jibs for reinforcement and connect the rafters with a ridge of two boards. Subsequently, the sheathing is installed on these two boards.
Roofing felt is quite suitable as a roof; slate is placed on top of it, and the corner joints are covered with wind boards. A budget option would be to use corrugated sheets or ondulin.

An integral element of the house is the door. To make it, attach 3 bars to the frame, which will serve as the door frame. Based on the dimensions of the frame, assemble the door, remember that its size should not exceed the internal size of the frame. To add rigidity, attach a piece of wood diagonally and then attach the hinges to the door and frame. Hang the door on the frame and install the handle. Check whether the door catches the frame when closing and opening.

So, our house is ready and we can move on to the decorative finishing stage. There are countless design options. You can decorate the facade of the house with carvings, paintings, and platbands. If you want to make a house in an oriental style, a hexagonal design, a diamond-shaped roof covered with tiles, is more suitable for you. You can also decorate the well with flowers, hang flowerpots under the roof, and decorate the walls climbing plants. A nautical theme is perfect, the gate is a great place for the helm, you can string ropes between the posts, and cover the roof with canvas. You can find old boards and decorate the house in an old, medieval style, or paint the existing material with gray paint. For modern dachas, a transparent polycarbonate roof and forged metal supports are suitable. A popular option is the mill house. In this matter, everything depends on your imagination and taste preferences.

If installing a well on your site is impossible (no space, poor soil, deep aquifer), you can still build a log house that will serve a purely decorative function. To complete the illusion, you can build a container of water inside.

Cost of materials and work

You can buy a ready-made house at completely different prices. A simple structure made of boards and a gable roof costs from 7 thousand rubles. The options are more interesting, but with walls they will cost you more. Such houses are sold at prices starting from 15 thousand rubles.

If you do all the work yourself, then the prices for materials will depend on what type of house you have chosen, as well as your design decision and preferences in the choice of material. On average from three to seven thousand rubles. However, one thing is for sure, the final price will be cheaper than ready-made models on the market.

Results

If you have already decided to install a well house on your property, here are the main points you should keep in mind:

The cheapest and easiest to make design is an open house without walls. The most expensive and difficult to install is the closed hex version.
It is very important to treat all parts with impregnations and varnishes before installing the structure directly above the well. Doing this after installation can contaminate your well water with chemicals.
A wooden block nailed to the door diagonally will prevent it from skewing.
If your site does not have suitable conditions for a well, you can always install a decorative log house.

Finally, do not forget to properly care for the well, and it will always delight you with clean and tasty water.

Digging a well at your dacha with your own hands may seem like a simple task. In fact, this process has many subtleties, without knowledge of which it is simply impossible to obtain high-quality water suitable for drinking. We will describe in detail not only the process of its construction, but also methods of searching for aquifers, as well as installation plumbing systems for supplying water to the house.

Types of wells

The choice of well type depends on the depth of the aquifer and soil type:

key: used infrequently when underground sources (springs) come close to the surface; a hole sunk 10-20 cm into the ground is filled with crushed stone, then a log house is prepared with a hole to drain excess water
mine: the most common, used when aquifers occur at a depth of 5-25 m; consists of a trunk, a water intake in the lower part, located under water, and a head (above-ground part)
Abyssinian (tubular): unlike a well, it is less deep and has a smaller casing diameter; plus the pumps it uses are not submersible, but above-ground (often manual); such a structure is inexpensive, but its service life is short; plus in winter, when groundwater goes deeper, its extraction can be difficult

Log shaft wells, based on the type of lower (water intake) part, are in turn divided into three more groups:

with an imperfect (incomplete) water intake: its lower part does not reach the bottom of the water layer, so liquid seeps through the bottom or walls; This is the option that is most often chosen when building a well with your own hands; the volume of water in it is quite enough for irrigation and meeting the needs of the family
with perfect water intake: it is located at the very bottom of the aquifer; Such structures for private houses are rarely used, because if water supplies exceed the family’s normal expenses, the water in it will quickly deteriorate and silt up
with a perfect water intake, complemented by a sump– deepening in the underlying rock to create a water reserve

Selecting a location

For some reason, some people think that water should be present everywhere. It is enough to make the hole deeper - and the well is ready. As a result, a wasted mine, wasted time and nerves. Moreover, the vein can pass just a couple of meters from the dug well, which remains dry.

To this day, the dowsing method is successfully used to search for a nearby water layer. Once upon a time, branches of viburnum, hazel or willow served as natural biolocators. Today, even experienced drillers often replace them with pieces of copper or aluminum wire with ends bent at 90 degrees. They are inserted into hollow tubes and, holding them in their hands, they walk through the area meter by meter. Where water passes close, the wires begin to cross in the direction of the flow. To be sure, the area is examined in this way several times.

When looking for a place for a well in your country house, you should also pay attention to the color of the greenery growing on the site. Near the water it is more juicy. Willows, meadowsweet, ivy and crabgrass are very fond of such places - where they have chosen a place to grow, there will definitely be a vein. Nettle, horse sorrel, cinquefoil, naked licorice, coltsfoot, and horsetail also grow here. But apple and plum trees, on the contrary, take root worse and often die.

Alder, willow, birch, willow and maple will always tend towards the aquifer. Single oak trees are also a sign of high standing waters. They grow exactly where they intersect.

It has long been noticed that cats love to bask in such places. Dogs avoid such areas. Red ants are also worth watching. They try to place anthills away from water. A large number of mosquitoes and midges always hover near it in the evening. In the mornings there is also always more dew and fog swirling here.

After finding the probable location of the aquifer, exploratory drilling is carried out before digging a well at the dacha. For these purposes, it is allowed to use a regular garden auger. Since you will have to go deeper by 6-10 m, its length will have to be increased. If moisture appears after digging a well, then the location of the water layer has been determined correctly.

If you don't trust the old proven methods, contact a nearby geological surveyor. Such organizations always have special geophysical instruments in their arsenal that can accurately determine the proximity of an aquifer.

When the layers are below 10-15 m, the idea of digging a well should be abandoned. In this case, drilling a well will be necessary.

How deep should a well be dug?

How to make a “correct” well so that there is always water in it? Its depth depends only on natural factors. Therefore, it is very difficult to determine in advance how many rings will be needed. Structures located nearby, for example, near neighbors, can provide an approximate guide, but these data will also be inaccurate. Unfortunately, a method that can accurately tell about the future depth does not yet exist.

To calculate the required number of concrete rings and the depth of the shaft, test drilling is carried out. It is used to determine the density of the soil, its composition, as well as the presence of limestone slabs nearby. But it cannot give an accurate result either.

In the diagrams, aquifers look like strips running underground horizontally or at a slight slope. The drainage part of the well can only be located at its upper boundary (the roof of the formation), in the center or at the very bottom (the bottom of the formation).

To obtain clean water, the mine must reach the second or even third aquifer. The first of these is perched water - water that accumulates near the surface. Its level is always unstable, plus it gets dirty easily. It is used only for watering. When digging a drinking well, you need to go through this layer and go deeper down.

Excavation continues until the veins are clearly visible and water begins to flow into the pit in sufficient quantities. It must be left for a day, and its arrival must be checked on the second day. If the height of the water layer is at least 1.5 m, you can stop digging and begin shaking (cleaning) from suspended soil.

Digging wells on your own on light sandy soils is dangerous due to the possibility of collapse and rubble. If there are several places on the site with the passage of aquifers, you should choose a place with the most dense soil. It is advisable that it be elevated to avoid rainwater flowing into it.

In order not to take risks, it is better in this case to use the services of specialists. The price of constructing a turnkey well in different areas may vary, so it is better to check with a specific organization.

What is a bottom filter?

Do you need a filter for a well? If it contains quicksand without a bottom filter - a layer of sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebbles that serves to clean the incoming moisture from suspended earth - it is a necessity. Of course, it will be problematic to get rid of them completely, but most It will be able to settle small particles of soil. This filter works on the principle of a conventional sieve.

But among well owners (and many experts) there is often an opinion that such cleaning is necessary even in the absence of quicksand. Supposedly, only it can provide perfectly clean water. Indeed, at first, a small film of special algae and bacteria forms in the sand layer, eating microorganisms dissolved in the water. But the service life of such a biological filter is short. Over time, the biofilm layer increases, the filtration rate decreases, and the well quickly silts up.

A properly constructed well should only be filled through the bottom. In practice, it is not always possible to ensure only bottom inflow. Water often begins to seep through the walls. In this case, its cleaning through the bottom filter simply does not occur.

Plus, a significant layer of backfill (and it should be at least half a meter) reduces the volume of water. Its inflow is also decreasing. It becomes difficult to carry out high-quality cleaning of a silted well in the presence of a layer of sand and crushed stone.

In villages, large stones are sometimes placed at the bottom. But this is only required to avoid muddying the water when scooping during seasonal shallowing. If the well is deep enough and its level does not drop too low, this is not particularly necessary.

If quicksand is detected, in addition to the bottom filter, you will also need to construct a special shield made of wood or steel with holes that can contain the flow of soil mixed with liquid.

What to choose, concrete rings or a wooden frame?

Just digging a well is not enough. It requires reliable protection from collapse. Concrete rings or wood can be used for this. Brick shafts are rarely used - laying them out is too labor-intensive. Plus, a metal frame is required to strengthen the brick, otherwise the walls will quickly begin to crumble. It is made from profiles, reinforcement or durable wood.

Concrete rings will last longer. Choosing log houses made of wood makes sense if access and delivery of rings to the selected site is impossible. The price of a well made of wood is unlikely to be lower than a structure made of concrete rings, and construction will take more time. And such mines silt up faster and will have to be cleaned more often.

The use of concrete rings greatly simplifies and speeds up the work. They are installed end to end. To avoid displacement, such rings are fastened together with steel staples. To prevent chipping along the edges, you can make 40-60 mm steel overlay strips.

The joints of the rings are coated with concrete mortar and additionally sealed with tarred hemp or liquid glass. On loose soils, it is better to place strong boards at the bottom of the shaft so that the rings stand evenly.

Monolithic concrete wells are prepared using formwork. If the depth is significant, concrete is first poured to a shallow depth. Next, they continue to dig a hole, making a tunnel under a layer of concrete and installing supports for it. After passing another 2 meters, a new formwork is prepared. In order for the walls to become stronger, a period of 7-10 days is maintained between each filling.

For wooden log houses, you will need a log made of moisture-resistant ash or oak with a diameter of 15 cm. Thicker logs with a thickness of 22 cm or more are cut in half. Conifers It is not recommended to take them - they will add a slight bitterness to drinking water.

The log house is assembled with locks “in the paw”, that is, several tenons are prepared at one end of the log, and grooves at the other. This is done first on the surface, marking the number of each crown, and then reassembled in the shaft. The crowns are fastened with dowels (metal pins) vertically. The upper crowns are additionally reinforced with steel brackets.

To avoid the penetration of wastewater, it is prohibited to locate a drinking well at a distance closer than 30 m from sewer and cesspool pits. To avoid weakening of the soil under the foundations, it must be removed at least 8 m from the nearest buildings.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings in stages

Let us describe in detail the process of constructing a well at a turnkey dacha. This task is quite labor-intensive, and it can take a lot of time.

Digging a well

Work must begin in March (the best time) or August-September, when groundwater drops to its minimum level. In the southern and northern regions of Russia, this period may shift.
Don't forget basic safety rules. Work should be carried out only by two people (alternately) using a safety rope.
Since wells are often dug by hand, its width is determined by the dimensions of the human body. The optimal diameter is 0.8-1.5 m. Although, of course, these dimensions are approximate. There is simply no point in making it wider - the amount of incoming moisture will not increase.
When using concrete rings, the width of the pit is equal to the width of the ring plus an allowance of 30-50 cm.
Please note that during the digging process the pit can fill up quite quickly, so you will have to periodically pump out the water.
To prevent the rings from accidentally moving, it is advisable to purchase products with tongue-and-groove locks. Their connection to each other will be more reliable.
The lowest ring (water inlet) must be equipped with a bottom and perforations on the walls.
Removal of soil continues to a depth equal to the height of the first (perforated) ring. It is installed so that it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
Under the first ring, 4 recesses are prepared, into which strong wooden supports or a row of bricks are installed.
We continue to dig a shaft under the ring standing on supports. It must be dug slightly under the cone so that the first ring can easily fall down under the influence of its own weight.
We remove the supports by lowering the ring lower. Install a new ring on top.
We continue to go deeper into the ground in the same order, while simultaneously increasing the rings.
When reaching the aquifer, digging continues until a layer of water of 40-50 cm is formed at the bottom.
Next, it must be completely drained so that the water-bearing veins are clearly visible. The well is covered with a thick film or tarpaulin.
Subsequent work is carried out after 12-14 hours.
To filter suspended soil and prevent it from agitating, a layer of coarse crushed stone 25 cm thick can be poured onto the bottom.
The well is again left for a day to allow the water to rise. Its layer should be 1.5 m.
If the water supply in the reservoir is insufficient due to the small height of the formation, side holes can be made in the walls to collect it.
The gap formed between the log house and the ground is filled with crushed stone or gravel.

Underground gas may enter the well shaft! Although such cases are infrequent, at the slightest suspicion (hissing, gurgling, the appearance of a foreign smell), lower a bucket with a burning candle into it or throw a bunch of lit straw into it. To avoid a strong explosion (if there is methane in the mine), move away from it. In the presence of carbon dioxide, the candle or straw, on the contrary, will quickly go out. If the gas does not go away for a long time, in order to figure out the problem, you will need to call specialists and the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Clay castle and blind area

The “clay castle” serves as a natural barrier, protecting against the penetration of rainwater and domestic wastewater. To create it, soil is selected around the well to a depth of 50 cm. The width of such a ditch is 30-45 cm. We place wet clay in it. To prevent the formation of voids and cracks, it must be thoroughly trampled. The top is compacted and smoothed using a wide board. For ease of walking, you can lay a row of bricks, large stones, or make a blind area of concrete.

In the first years, wells built on clay soil fill more slowly. They may need to be periodically pumped to flush the springs. Subsequently, the influx increases.

Construction of the head

Decorative well with brick cap

Its purpose is to prevent water pollution on land. After all, the external insulation of a structure is no less important. Without it, tree leaves, insects and wind-blown debris will constantly fall into the well.

The head should rise above the surface at a height of 60-90 cm. It is equipped with a lid and a device for raising water. Even if you have a pumping system, you shouldn’t abandon the bucket gate. After all, the electricity may be turned off for a while.

The best finishing materials are wood or brick. It’s definitely not worth protecting the head with metal tiles. Its angles are so sharp that they can cut your skin like a knife. There is no need to make the lid too tight - in order to avoid the appearance of mustiness, the well must “breathe”.

There is no point in insulating the head. Reliable thermal insulation must be located at the level of the top pair of rings so that the water in the well does not freeze.

The height of the frame or concrete rings should be 0.8-1 m, so that when removing a bucket, a person can safely reach it without bending too much down.

Well rocking

The water in the dug well is still cloudy and can only be used for irrigation. It is not yet suitable for drinking. Water, as well as the bottom and walls of the pit, are cleaned from loose soil using a small submersible mud pump:

remember the rule: the first few pumpings are carried out in small portions with a intake of no more than 3/4 of the water column; otherwise, with an intensive supply of new portions of moisture, the bottom will be washed away, and such cleaning will be of no use
The very first cleaning is done manually; to do this you need to go down into the well with an ordinary shovel and bucket; The pump cannot handle so much dirt yet
the pump is hooked onto a strong cable and installed closer to the bottom, at the gravel filter to prevent the sludge from settling
pumping is carried out until water begins to flow intensively; the number of pump starts per day is at least four; and this must be done in different modes
drain contaminated water
From time to time the pump must be flushed by running clean water, otherwise it will quickly fail due to overload
a well dug in clay soil requires lengthy cleaning; some owners believe that cloudy liquid in this case is inevitable, but this is far from the case; its mine can and should be pumped

In a similar way, periodic purification of water from a well is carried out. Otherwise, it will silt and become shallow. This is done as it gets dirty.

In the absence of a mud pump, the mixture of liquid and soil is removed from the well using an ordinary bucket with a rope tied to it. But this process is very labor-intensive - cleaning must be done until the water becomes absolutely clean, without impurities.

If the well is located on quicksand - soil mixed with a large amount of water - it is impossible to clean it. In this case, special drainage systems(bottom filters).

For uninterrupted supply garden house An insert for pipes is prepared in advance with water in one of the concrete rings. They should be laid 30 cm below the soil freezing level. Otherwise, at the end of winter, burst pipes will have to be replaced. This indicator is different in each area, so it should be clarified.

To lay a water pipeline at a dacha from a well to the house, a trench is laid to it. When calculating its depth, the height of the sand and gravel cushion is taken into account (up to 10-15 cm). For laying the water supply, HDPE polyethylene pipes made of plastic are used low pressure. The optimal diameter is 32 mm. You will also need connecting fittings (tees, reducers, bends, etc.).

Since the cost of pipes is minimal, experts advise laying two lines to the well at once. In this case, if a leak occurs, you can use the second one as a backup option.

For mechanical protection against soil pressure, pipes are ironed into corrugations or pipes of larger diameter. It is better to lay a layer of insulation between them. When lifting pipes closer to the surface near a base or unheated basement, they may freeze, so additional thermal insulation is required in these places.

For an uninterrupted supply of water from a well in the utility room, it is better to provide a storage tank. After laying the pipes, they are connected to a pump, which is lowered into the water at a distance of 30 cm from the bottom (more on its selection below).

Selection of pumping equipment

As you know, all types of pumps are divided into two types:

1 Superficial: they only have a suction pipe in the water; such units are capable of lifting it only from a depth of up to 10.3 m; it is to this height that water can rise through the tube, pushed by atmospheric pressure into the tube; in practice, due to friction losses and fluctuations in atmospheric pressure, this parameter decreases and equals 5-7 m; mechanisms with ejectors (water flow accelerators) can lift water from greater depths, but their efficiency is too low.

2 Submersible: the entire mechanism is completely lowered into the liquid, which allows water to be delivered from great depths; since such units do not expend power on suction, there is no loss of power; their efficiency is much higher than surface efficiency.

Thus, it is advisable to pump water for the dacha from deep wells pumping stations equipped with submersible pumps. All that remains is to determine their power and performance. It is necessary to take into account not only the needs of the family, but also the flow of water in the well itself. Otherwise, it may turn out that an overly powerful unit will run idle.

Please also note that the overall efficiency of the system will depend not only on the power of the unit, but also on the number of turns and narrowings of the water pipeline. If there is a small influx of water, it makes sense to purchase a low-power pump and install a storage tank from which water will be supplied to the taps in the house.

Another important parameter for the pump is the pressure force, that is, the ability to transfer (move) the pumped water further through the pipes. This parameter is directly related to the operating pressure. That is, per 10 m of vertical pipe there is a pressure of 1 atmosphere.

The water has left the well. What to do?

The aquifer is depleted over time, so the amount of moisture in the well decreases, and then it becomes completely shallow. But this can happen no earlier than after 10-25 years of operation. Moreover, the operating time does not depend on the depth of the mine, but on the thickness of the aquifer.

Please note that the well is always subject to seasonal shallowing. During prolonged drought, its level always decreases. When the rainy season arrives, moisture rises again to its usual level. Sometimes it goes away completely due to serious geological developments taking place in the area, or changes in seismological activity, but such cases are very rare.

In most cases, the cause of shallowing is siltation. Over time, the debris that settles to the bottom turns into silt, which clogs the vein and the inflow decreases. For uninterrupted water supply to the dacha from the well, it requires periodic cleaning (boosting). We described it in detail above.

If cleaning hardly helped, but moisture still began to flow in a little, this means that the ducts themselves have silted up. They are washed with water from the tank. Moisture seeping into the aquifer will clean the springs well.

When extracting part of the aquifer, the well can be dug, that is, the water intake can be lowered a little lower. Teach that such deepening must be done wisely. Don't throw it away at the first trickle of water. But lowering to too great a depth is undesirable. Otherwise, you will cover possible fontanelles with concrete rings. Excavation is carried out more often on 3-4 rings.

It is not worth deepening wells with quicksand - in this case it is unlikely to achieve an increase in inflow.

If the water supply system of a suburban area cannot be connected to the public network, there is a need to install an individual source. To provide a beloved estate with drinking or technical water, a well is most often dug.

This is the most affordable development that does not require the use of an excavator or drilling rig for development.

Understanding construction technology, it is quite possible to build a well with your own hands and provide a home drinking water. Agree, before starting work, it is necessary to study the theoretical aspect of the issue.

We will help you determine the optimal place to dig a well, we will tell you in detail about geological surveys which you can do yourself. In addition, we will offer several options for arranging water intake points and describe step-by-step technologies their implementation.

The purpose of building a well on a suburban area is to open an aquifer capable of covering the family’s needs for drinking or industrial water. The first is used according to its name, the second is used for watering the area, cleaning and similar needs.

It is necessary to decide on the drinking and technical category at the planning stage of future production, because its depth and design depend on this. Categories differ according to the degree of pollution.

The chemical composition of process water contains more mineral impurities, odor and slight turbidity are allowed. Drinking water must be crystal clear, completely devoid of smell and taste.

Aquifers are layers of rock of equivalent composition and structure that contain groundwater. On a geological section, they appear as strips of arbitrary width, lying at an angle or relatively horizontally.

The upper boundary of the formation is called the roof, the lower is called the base. Depending on the thickness of the aquifer and the required amount of water, the well can only penetrate the roof, cross 70% of the formation, or be installed with its bottom on the base.

The roof of the aquifer, in turn, serves as the base of the overlying layer, and the base serves as the roof of the underlying layer.

There are two natural ways for water to appear in rock strata:

Penetration of atmospheric precipitation into soils or the waters of nearby bodies of water. Water passes freely through permeable sediments, which include sand, pebbles, rubble and gravel. The process of seepage or penetration is called infiltration, and layers that allow water to pass through are called permeable layers.
Moisture condensation in layers, sandwiched between two waterproof or otherwise waterproof layers. Clays, loams, semi-rocky and rocky rocks that do not have cracks do not allow water to pass through. The water lying between them can be under pressure: when opened, its level rises and sometimes gushes out.

Fractured rock and semi-rock varieties can accommodate water, but there is no pressure or it is weak. On chemical composition fracture water will certainly be influenced by the host rocks. Limestones and marls will enrich it with lime, dolomites with magnesium, gypsum steamed with rock salt will be saturated with chloride and sulfate salts.

For those who want to know how to build a full-fledged well with their own hands, you should consider the following:

Presence of impermeable rock above the aquifer eliminates the seepage of dirty wastewater into the formation. Water extracted from an aquicluded layer can be classified as drinking water.
Lack of aquifer on top of the aquifer signals the prohibition of the use of water for drinking purposes. It is called perched water and is used exclusively for household needs.

If the owner of the site is interested in the technical category, it is quite enough to open or go deeper into the layer with perched water. The well shaft in such cases is much shorter than the drinking water shaft.

However, the mirror of the perched water can hardly be called stable. During dry summers and winters, the level in such mines is lower than during rainy autumn and spring periods. Water supplies will fluctuate accordingly.

Strata that are capable of releasing water when opened by a mine are called aquifer, rocks that do not allow or release water are called waterproof or waterproof (+)

To obtain a stable amount of water in the well, the perched water must pass and go deeper into the underlying aquifer. Usually there are several permeable and waterproof layers between it and the perched water. This means there is a possibility of reaching drinking water.

However, the trunk of such a well is much longer: it will take more material, time and labor effort to build it.

Typical diagram of a shaft type well

A shaft well is a common type of individual water supply source. In the lumen he has the most big size, which allows an independent owner to form a working with a simple shovel directly in the mine. The excavation can be round, square, or less often rectangular.

The diameter or length of the wall of a square shaft usually varies from 0.8 to 1.2/1.5 m. Note that too much clearance does not guarantee an increase in flow rate. There is slightly more water in a wide well than in a narrow analogue. After all, the flow rate is determined by the capabilities of the water carrier, and not by the size of the mine. But the difference in construction costs is difficult not to notice.

Where to install a water supply facility

Choosing a location for an individual water supply source is not very easy, especially if a small area is already occupied by impressive residential and commercial buildings.

Even if you want to save meters, when planning the space under your hands, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

A drinking well should not be located near manure heaps, latrines, bathhouses, cesspools, barnyards and similar objects. There should be at least 20-25 m between the well and the source of probable contamination.
There is no need to build a well on the slopes of river banks or ravines. Due to the decreasing flow of underground water, the flow rate will be significantly reduced.
The minimum distance between the well and the foundation of a house or utility block must be at least 5 m. Water currents will be directed into the well, like into a reservoir formed in the ground, washing away the soil from under the foundations, particle by particle. The corner of the building located nearby will certainly sag.

Ponds with standing water are considered an undesirable neighborhood. Water will certainly infiltrate through permeable rocks, which is extremely dangerous for the drinking category.

It is prohibited to locate a well near sources of biological and chemical pollution, as well as on slopes, near ravines and on river banks.

Technologies for the construction of mine wells

The essence of constructing a well is to form walls that strengthen the shaft.

Depending on the material chosen for the construction of the well crepe, the work is carried out according to one of three proven schemes:

Construction of walls from the bottom of a pre-dug shaft. The technology is most often used in the construction of brick and stone wells with a foundation resting on an aquifer. Due to the danger of collapses, the shaft walls are equipped with temporary fasteners.
Building up walls on top of a trunk under construction with simultaneous lowering. The most common and safest method, which involves parallel construction and excavation. It is used in the construction of wells with walls made of concrete rings and well frames.
Building walls from below with simultaneous penetration. The method is used in the installation of wooden fasteners in cases where the box is jammed. Then the size of the clearance is reduced and the elements are attached to the conditional bottom of the trunk.

An alternative to the bottom build-up is in the well shaft. It is also worth calling in drillers for help if, while digging, you come across a large boulder that is difficult to break with a hand chisel.

Three or more people must be involved in the construction of a shaft well. One works on the face, two insure on the ground.

Brickwork with a curvilinear outline of wells refers to a particularly high degree of complexity of masonry, requiring experience and serious skills from the performer

Option #1 – construction of a well with a foundation

Construction begins with a structure concrete base. To do this, water is first drained from the work site. The soil is compacted and leveled, and a crushed stone cushion is placed on top.

The formwork for a well foundation is assembled on the ground surface, then compacted and installed on the prepared bottom. It is recommended to lay polyethylene inside the formwork, which will serve as waterproofing for the base.

For pouring, it is allowed to use a solution of cement with crushed stone without sand filler. Concreting is carried out in one step without interruptions.

Explanations for the diagram: 1 – concrete pad, 2 – cement mortar, 3.4 – 1st and 2nd row of 1.5 bricks, 5 – 3rd row, etc., 6 – reinforcement frame, 7 – filter media

After the concrete has hardened, markings are made:

Round well marked by drawing the inner circle and marking the center.
Rectangular well drawn by marking the internal and external edges of the walls. The longitudinal and perpendicular axes are marked.

The reinforcement is used horizontal and vertical. Horizontal clamps are placed in similar masonry joints outside the trunk. Vertical bars are installed through eight times the wall thickness. This should be the distance between all reinforcement elements.

The thickness of the masonry mortar for fastening the reinforcement should take into account the full coverage of the vertical rods with a margin of 2 cm. The margin in horizontal joints is 0.4 cm.

The walls of a well with rounded outlines are laid in butt rows. Depending on the depth of the excavation, they are placed in two, one and a half or one brick. They are built in tiers of about 1.2 m. Ligation is carried out by shifting the new row in relation to the laid row by a quarter of a brick.

The walls of wells with a round outline are laid in 1 - 1.5 or 2 bricks, depending on the depth of the well, the bricks are laid in butt rows (+)

Construction from the bottom is carried out by two people. The master lays the bricks, the apprentice prepares and serves the materials. Verticality and horizontality of rows are checked regularly using a level and plumb line. They work from suspended scaffolding. If the well is built with three bricks, it is allowed to carry out masonry from the walls.

Option #2 - how to make a well from concrete rings

The most profitable, efficient and easy-to-execute option is to use factory-made ones, equipped with stepped or beveled seams at the end joints.

However, you can do it yourself. To do this, you need to build formwork - two removable or collapsible rings. They make them from sheet metal or boards connected by a metal strip. Sometimes the formwork is given a slightly conical shape to make it easier to build homemade rings from top to bottom.

Consistent production of rings using this method is carried out directly on site. Reinforcement is placed around the perimeter of the formwork: at least 5 vertical rods. The distance between them is 25 cm. Horizontal reinforcement is placed every 20 cm, secured to the vertical parts with knitting wire.

To mix the solution, use cement of a grade not lower than M400, washed sand, crushed stone or gravel. The solution is allowed to harden for 2-3 days, after which the ring is immersed in the soil by digging under the bottom edge. Then the next element is made and installed on the previous one.

The result is a trunk with peculiar steps that allow the master to move up/down inside the well being built.

The dimensions of the ring are usually taken as follows: internal diameter - 0.8-1.2 m, wall thickness of a concrete well - 10-12 cm, reinforced concrete - 6-8 cm, ring height - 0.7-1.2 m (+)

Construction of a barrel from factory reinforced concrete rings in stages:

The trunk is marked, according to which the soil is selected to the height of the ring.
The first reinforced concrete ring with a cutting bottom edge is installed in the shaft.
A bitumen-impregnated or tarred cord Ø1 cm is laid along the upper joint along the fold.
A second ring is installed on top of the first ring, the joint of the elements is treated with concrete mortar.
Under the lower ring, from two opposite sides, dig up the soil with a sapper shovel or an ordinary shovel with a shortened handle. But first, soil from the middle of the excavation is selected and supplied to the top.
Chocks or similar devices of equal height are installed in the recesses.
They dig under the ring from sides perpendicular to the previous ones. Chocks are placed in the recess.
By analogy, they dig under the remaining part of the ring and select the soil inside the excavation.
Chocks are knocked out from under the completely undermined ring. The ring settles under its own weight.

According to the described scheme, they operate until the second ring is completely immersed, on top of which the third is placed. The above algorithm is followed until underground water appears and the tunnel penetrates into the aquifer to a sufficient depth.

Image gallery

Stage 1: Digging a well begins with removing soil and topsoil

Stage 2: During digging, it is necessary to regularly monitor the dimensions of the well shaft in plan, using poles of suitable size

Stage 3: If a boulder comes across during the development of a mine, it must be dug around, freed from the soil and pulled out, tied with ropes

Stage 4: To make it easier and much easier to get the dumped soil from the bottom, use a winch