Home Boilers Planting onion sets on greens and turnips in the spring. How to plant onions on a head in spring: preparation, planting, care. Is it possible to plant sprouted onions?

Planting onion sets on greens and turnips in the spring. How to plant onions on a head in spring: preparation, planting, care. Is it possible to plant sprouted onions?

By the beginning of spring, onions stored at home begin to germinate on their own. If you do not notice this in time, the bulb will begin to rot, and then spoil others nearby. But from sprouted bulbs you can get a good harvest of fresh green onions. And it’s quite simple to do this: if you have the desire.

In indoor conditions, onions are forced to grow into feathers en masse, planting the bulbs in boxes close to each other. In the first 10 - 12 days, the boxes can stand in any warm, slightly darkened room, says Nikolai Kupreenko, deputy director of the Republican Unitary Enterprise “Institute of Vegetable Growing” for science, head of the laboratory of onion crops, candidate of agricultural sciences, breeder. - When the onions grow 5 - 10 cm, they are exposed to the light. After two weeks, the first leaves are cut off, thereby thinning out the plantings. The optimal growth temperature is plus 17 - 20 degrees. In warmer conditions, greenery grows faster, but the leaves turn out to be pale green, thin, and quickly lodging. Caring for onions consists only of regular watering - 1 - 2 times a week with warm (plus 30 - 35 degrees) water.

It is better to use small bulbs with a diameter of 3 - 4 cm as planting material. But at the same time, the larger the onion, the higher the yield of leaves. Onions grow better on southern, southeastern and southwestern windows.

There are many options for planting onions. Double layer, for example. It allows you to get 2 - 3 times more pen than usual. Fill a small container with a layer of earth. Then, having cut off the dry necks, we plant the bulbs closely, sprinkle them with earth to fill the voids between them and cover the already planted layer by a couple of centimeters. We plant a second layer of bulbs above it, but we no longer cover it with soil. We water and care for such a tiered planting as we would for any indoor plant. And we are waiting for a thick brush of feathers.

Or here's another way. Take a container and pour a 5-centimeter layer of peat and sand mixture into it. Then moisten the onion, dip its bottom in the ground chalk so that it sticks. After this, press the onion halfway into the ground, and sprinkle on top with a layer of chalk or the same layer of crushed eggshells. Place the container by the window. Take snow or crushed ice and cover the bulbs with it to a depth of 3 - 4 cm. With this planting, the onions begin to germinate very quickly, and the bulbs do not rot. Sprinkle them with snow every 5 days.

Some amateur vegetable growers recommend using buckets for forcing onions. In the walls of the container (a large one will do) plastic bottle) holes with a diameter slightly smaller than the onion are punched in a checkerboard pattern. We fill the bottom of the bucket up to the first holes and insert the bulbs from the inside into each hole. Then we add soil again - and so on to the very top. We also plant the bulbs on the surface of the bucket. Thus, you will have a green vitamin “bush” in your apartment, taking up very little space.

When growing onions in indoors, - recalls Nikolai Petrovich, - one must take into account such an important feature as the dormant period, that is, the ability of onions to be preserved without germinating. Bulbs with a short dormant period (sweet varieties grown in the south) germinate 2 - 4 months after harvesting, and those with a long dormancy period (sharp and semi-sharp varieties) - after 4 - 6 months. Some local vegetatively propagated varieties may not germinate during storage until a new harvest. Therefore, they can be used for forcing during spring and summer.

If you decide to grow onions in a jar of water, then you need to make sure that the onion does not drown. Only the roots should be in the water. To do this, place a circle of foam plastic 1.5 - 2 cm thick in a jar, cut a hole in it for the roots of the onion, pour water and place the onion in the hole. You can forget about watering.

Onion feathers contain 10 times more vitamins than turnips. In addition, growing green onions create a favorable microclimate, moisturize and disinfect the air, releasing phytoncides.

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The bulbs will germinate faster if, before planting, they are wrapped in damp burlap and kept in this state for three days. Or use a sharp knife to cut the neck of the onion to the shoulders, soak in warm water at a temperature of plus 30 - 35 degrees and leave for 12 - 15 hours. Bulbs with a cut or damaged bottom are not suitable for forcing.

By the way

Almost all varieties of onions are suitable for forcing, but it is better to use sharp, multi-primed ones. They form 3 - 5 leaves from one primordium.

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Shallots are ideal for forcing, producing up to 6 - 12 tender, tasty leaves. Good results can be obtained using varieties perennial onion: batun, slime, chives. The aerial bulbs (bulbs) of multi-tiered onions are also used for forcing. In 25 - 35 days they produce 10 - 13 kg of green onions per 1 sq. m.

Did you know that onions belong to the lily family, representing a large genus of biennial and perennial plants that are cultivated by humans for food consumption in various types and as a prophylactic against seasonal colds.

More than 600 types of onions are known to the world, 400 of them grow in the Northern Hemisphere, and 230 are cultivated in the territory of the former USSR. The varieties most known to most users are: spring onion, allspice, leek, multi-tiered, slime, chives, garlic and wild garlic.

The most common of all onion varieties, known in cultivation for about six thousand years, on the territory of Russia, turnips are bred in regions, the names of these varieties are associated with the places of breeding: Arzamassky, Bessonovsky, Danilovsky, Penza, Rostovsky and others.

For sowing and planting onions the earliest dates are preferable - in spring and the latest - in autumn, since onions are cold-resistant and capable of vernalization at low positive temperatures. When answering the question of how to plant onions in spring, we answer that not earlier than night temperatures become higher than +2 to +5 C .

It is better to sow seed onions in beds prepared in the fall in the earliest climatic periods with the onset of spring.

Onion planting site in spring

The good gardener has been preparing the planting area for the onion since the fall. To do this, you will need to dig up the soil deeply and spread a layer of organic fertilizers (compost, manure, chicken droppings) - a mixture or to choose from at the rate of: 1.5 - 2.0 buckets per 1 square meter.

In addition, 25-35 grams of superphosphate and potassium salts per 1 m2 (sprinkle on top like salt). Until spring, all mineral and organic fertilizers will dissolve and fall evenly into the soil.

Optimal crops prior to planting onions

The best predecessors for growing healthy and large bulbs are considered to be places where pumpkin, peas, beans, zucchini and nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, or eggplants) grew. But last year’s plots of carrots, beets, cucumbers or garlic will NOT be able to please you with decent onion harvests.

When planting onions in spring, you need to take into account various details and little things that contribute to a good harvest. Stability of warm weather and soil heating temperature are important:

the soil has not warmed up enough, below 12-14 C, the onion will sprout;
the best time is the end of April - the first days of May and preferably in warm soil - the onion head will grow well, and not the greens otherwise;
if sowing is delayed, and it occurs at high temperatures and lack of natural moisture, then the development of the bulbs is delayed and threatens to reduce the planned yield;
In central Russia, gardeners correlate the timing of planting onions with the flowering of bird cherry.

Method of sowing / planting onions in spring

If the area under spring planting the onions are prepared and fertilized before winter, then immediately before planting, at least the planting rows should be watered with dark pink aqueous solution sodium permanganate, which will simultaneously feed and disinfect the soil.

After you have sown/planted onions, do not feed them with anything until harvesting, but it is important to constantly remove weeds, because it is not enough to just plant onions in the spring, you need to care for them almost until the harvest to one degree or another!

Preparing onion seeds for sowing

Seeds make it possible to grow onions into feathers. Almost a month before sowing, a test (stratification) should be carried out for their germination. For this purpose, nigella (onion seeds) is placed in a gauze bag and immersed in hot (+45 +55 C) water for no more than 12-16 minutes, after which - in cold water for 1.5-2 minutes for hardening. And then kept in a natural damp cloth, not allowing it to dry for 22-26 hours. Next, place them in a container with water at room temperature and, changing the water daily, leave them in a cool place or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 days. As a result of swelling, the seeds are freed from substances that prevent germination.

Before planting, the water is drained, the “chernushka” is dried on a paper towel, mixed with sand or sawdust so that the sowing is uniform without thickening.

Preparing onion sets

In any case, before planting, you need to sort the seedlings by size: first select large, medium and small onions. Plant the large ones first - they will go to seed and you decide for yourself whether to use them green or leave them for blackening. After them - medium and small ones, which will give turnips by autumn, large or medium, will depend on the care.

No earlier than 3-4 days before planting, the prepared planting material should be dried and warmed, spread out in a thin layer on a heating surface at a temperature no higher than +35-42 C. Otherwise, the entire onion may go to waste.

After drying and warming up in a prepared aqueous solution of complex fertilizers (15-20 grams per 10 liters of water), soak for 8-10 hours. After this mineral bath, soak the seed material for 40-60 minutes in an aqueous solution of copper sulfate (10-15 grams per 10 liters) in order to prevent fungal diseases of the future harvest. After the vitriol bath, rinse with running, non-cold water, allow excess moisture to drain and you can plant. The bulbs on the feather need to cut off the tops.

Sowing onions with seeds in spring

Prepared onion seeds mixed with sawdust or sand are sown evenly in shallow furrows 1-1.5 centimeters deep, sprinkled with soil and covered with film until shoots emerge. And in late autumn, before winter, nigella can be sown dry, leveling the ground, sprinkled with peat chips or humus.

To grow onions, it will take 2 years: in the first year, sets (onions) are obtained from seeds (nigella), and only in the second year, from the sets (onions). There is experience in growing it in one year, but this will require very early sowing or seedlings that have grown within 2 months before planting in the ground. In early March, sow onion seeds at the rate of 12-14 grams per m2 in shallow boxes with soil for seedlings and grow 2-month-old onion seedlings in a greenhouse.

Before boarding open ground For bulbous seedlings, the leaves are shortened by half and the roots are cut to a length of 2-3 centimeters. Prepared sprouts are planted in the ground in rows, the distance between which is 20 centimeters, and between plants in a row - 8-10 centimeters. Overall Density plantings - 40-50 plants per 1 m2. Practice shows that you can plant thicker so that the bulbs ripen faster. Under favorable weather and agrotechnical conditions, frequent planting will make it possible to thin them out, using the grown bulbs for food.

When planting in a row, set bulbs are deepened no lower than 4-5 centimeters, so that up to 2.5-3.5 centimeters of soil is above the shoulders of these bulbs. Upon completion of planting, the soil is watered and mulched to prevent cracking.

Optimal timing for planting onion sets

The best time to plant onions in the spring is considered to be the end of April - the beginning of May, as spring weather allows - the sets are not afraid of low positive temperatures and begin to germinate already at 0 C. If the sets are small and there is no confidence in saving them until spring, then it is better to plant before winter. Sewing of large and medium-sized Central Russian varieties is almost unlimited by the timing of vernalization - in this case, vernalization lasts more than 4 months, and the rudiments “sleep” all winter with necessary conditions storage And immediately after planting in the ground in early spring, they begin to grow actively.

It is much better to use a zoned variety of sets for your plot, and even better to grow such sets from your own home-grown nigella.

Do I need to loosen the soil after planting onions?

Despite how easy it is to care for onions, its basic rules will lead to a high yield. The onion turnip loves air and light and for this reason it strives to “get out” to the surface. And in this regard, the most important thing in caring for onions is regular loosening after watering, rain, and during dry periods. When an impenetrable crust forms, the roots of the onion suffocate, the feather begins to turn pale and even yellow, and overall growth stops.

Loosening is not only a way to sufficiently aerate the roots of onions, but also effective, which manage to spread wildly while the bulbs slowly grow roots and leaves.

The watering regime will be determined by the weather itself. If there is sufficient precipitation in the spring, when onion plantings are in dire need of constant moisture, there is no need to water at all.

In the summer season, moderate watering alternates with mandatory subsequent loosening, and by the beginning of turnip ripening, watering is minimal so as not to stimulate leaf growth and not to delay the ripening of large bulbs. In addition, excessive watering worsens the storage quality of grown onions.

Fertilizers and fertilizing of onions after planting

If the pre-planting fertilizing of the soil was carried out correctly and fully, then additional fertilizing will be required only for poor soil. But if the onion vegetation is sluggish for some reason, and watering and loosening are applied in a timely manner, then you can resort to summer organic feeding with the addition of urea at the rate of: fermented organic matter (mullein or bird droppings) - 250-280 grams and 15-20 grams of urea per 1 bucket of water. After light watering, pour this solution into the line under the root without excess. Can be repeated after two weeks.

Prevention of fungal diseases

When the height of the onion feather reaches 12-16 centimeters, you can carry out preventive treatment against fungal diseases, which consists of spraying with an aqueous solution of copper sulfate and liquid soap at the rate of: 5-8 grams of soap and 15-20 grams of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water.

This usually happens during the period: from the second or third week of August to the beginning of September, when the growth of greenery obviously stops, the leaves turn yellow and dry, and the turnip acquires characteristic ripe-looking scales. It is impossible to overbear the harvest due to the danger of awakening the bulbs to grow. Both sets and onions can be pulled out by hand if the stems do not break. You can use a pitchfork, digging carefully so as not to damage the onion turnip. It is better to do this on a sunny day or in cloudy but dry weather.

If the weather is sunny and the soil is dry enough, then the harvested onion and seed sets can be spread directly on the beds for drying. An adult turnip dries out in such natural conditions within 1 week; for a set, 3-4 days are enough. This option is not for those who cannot monitor the process of drying onions in the garden every day and depending on the weather. In this case, even in wet weather, the harvested onion crop must be dried under a canopy with good air circulation.

The harvested onion has dried well - start trimming the dry stems, leaving a 3-4 cm neck on the bulb. After drying and trimming, onions need to be properly sorted for safe storage. Large turnips are considered food, and small ones (selections) up to 3 centimeters in diameter are advisable to save as seeds for a green feather.

Onions are no longer exotic summer cottage, rather, on the contrary, it’s strange when it’s not there. Despite its wide distribution and popularity, not all gardeners know how to grow it. This is a rather capricious crop and any deviation in agricultural technology leads to a deterioration in the quality of the crop. Excessively “evil” onions grow when there is a lack of moisture at the beginning of the growing season, a small head is formed when planting is thickened and at the wrong depth, non-compliance with crop rotation and violation of care rules leads to the development of diseases and affects keeping quality.

Often, summer residents receive a harvest, half of which does not survive until mid-winter, and the other half is only suitable for borscht due to its pronounced spiciness. What features need to be taken into account in order to plant onions correctly and avoid many problems?

Onions love illuminated areas and do not tolerate lowlands with heavy, waterlogged soils. Cabbage, cucumber and nightshade will be good predecessors for it. These crops do not have common pests and diseases with onions, and since their cultivation is accompanied by the application of high doses of organic and mineral fertilizers, the soil remains quite nutritious.

Onions can also come after zucchini and peas, but it is undesirable for them to occupy areas that were previously under carrots, since fresh organic matter is not added to this crop, and onions require fertile soil. Also, the area after it is vacated late, you may not have time to prepare it for a new planting. You can plant carrots after onions; joint planting and close placement of the beds are good (they repel pests from each other).

The plant can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 3 years, and in case of high disease damage - only after 5 years. Planting onions on a head in the spring should be done in loose and moderately moist soil, so in the fall the area should be dug up with a shovel, and in the spring it should only be harrowed with a rake and leveled.

If necessary, compost or humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added in the fall. To neutralize the soil solution on acidic soils, add chalk or lime. It is recommended to occupy areas where fresh manure was applied with onion plants only for the 2nd year.

In poorly warmed areas with heavy clay soil, wide ridges are cut in the fall, onto which planting will take place.

When do you plant onions on the head?

The exact planting dates are determined by prevailing weather conditions and ground temperature. Onions are a cold-resistant crop, but when planted in cold soil they will bolt, which will reduce the quality of the harvest.

On the other hand, the procedure must be completed when there is still a supply of moisture in the soil, the needs of which are great for onions at the beginning of growth. And the relatively long growing season of this crop does not forgive delay.

Preparation of planting material

Planting material (seeds) stored warmly (18-20ºC with a humidity of 60-70%) does not require any procedures to activate growth processes. A week before planting, it is sorted out, discarding dried, sprouted and rotting bulbs, and sorted, dividing into 2-3 fractions.

It is recommended to sow the smallest fraction (diameter less than 1.5 cm) at an earlier date, as it does not produce shoots. Sevok from the middle fraction (diameter 1.5-2 cm) gives the most good harvest, but provided that the planting is done in sufficiently warmed soil. Large onions (diameter more than 3 cm) can be used for growing onions for harvest or for obtaining turnips for canning, as they often shoot arrows, which affects keeping quality.

If the planting material was stored at low temperatures (in the attic, cellar, etc.), then 2 - 3 weeks before planting it must be transferred to a warm room and dried (the container with the seedlings can simply be placed near the radiator, but not very close ).

The calibrated seed is heated at a temperature of 40ºC for 8 hours to destroy internal infection (can be placed on the battery in cardboard box). Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in hot water for 12-24 hours. Instead of water, you can use a weakly concentrated solution of complex fertilizers.

Immediately before planting, the planting material is treated for 15 minutes with a pale solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (for example, copper sulfate). After treatment, rinsing in clean warm water is required.

Some summer residents trim the “tails” of the seedlings to speed up germination. However, such a procedure damages the protective barrier and opens the door to infection, so it is better to get by with soaking, which will already halve the time before germination.

Technique for planting onion sets

Shallow grooves are cut on the leveled bed. The distance between the grooves should be 15-20 cm to make it convenient to care for the plants. If the soil is not moist enough, the furrows are shed with water. Onions respond well to the addition of wood ash and sand into the furrows.

Treated seedlings can be planted in the prepared bed. The bulbs are buried with the bottom down to the “shoulders”, and then sprinkled with earth, so that a layer of 2 cm is formed on top. Surface plantings will give earlier shoots, but with this technique you will not be able to get a good turnip.

The sets in the row are placed at a distance of 6-10 cm (depending on the variety). Some summer residents advise planting it densely in a “snake” pattern in order to obtain not only bulbs, but also greenery from one bed. As the plants grow in the row, they are thinned out, removing the bulbs along with the feather. This method is convenient for a small garden bed, when you are confident that it will be thinned out in a timely manner.

How to grow a head from seeds in one season?

Growing onions for turnips in the Non-Black Earth Region, the Far East and Siberia occurs in a two-year culture, i.e., first a set is obtained from seeds, from which turnips are grown the next year. In the southern regions and central Russia, some sweet and semi-sharp varieties and hybrids can form a marketable bulb from seeds in one season. To get a turnip directly from seeds, you need to sow in early spring and winter or use seedlings.

If weather conditions permit, onions can be sown at the end of April directly into open ground. To speed up seed germination, they must be placed in warm water or a solution of growth stimulants for 1-2 days.

It is better to sow on high ridges. The seeds are sown to a depth of about 2 cm, in a tape method with a distance between tapes of 20 cm. Thus, if the ridge is 1 meter wide, then 4-5 rows can be placed on it. The seedlings need regular watering and thinning twice. The first time is thinned out a few days after mass germination, leaving an interval of 2 cm between plants, and the second time - in the phase of 2-3 true leaves with an interval of 6 cm.

In winter, seeds are sown from late October to mid-November. Pre-winter sowing is characterized by an increased seeding rate (3 times) and mulching of crops with peat. Shoots appear earlier, so the bulb ripens earlier.

Mostly sweet salad varieties are grown through seedlings. Sowing of seedlings in a heated greenhouse is carried out in early March. It is possible to grow seedlings at home, but only with sufficient lighting. When sown in nutrient soil, seedlings only require regular watering. Plants are planted in open ground at the age of 55 days (they should already have 3-4 true leaves). To do this, choose a cloudy day or evening. They are planted with a row spacing of 25 cm, with 6–8 cm between plants in a row.

The best varieties and hybrids

Onions are very sensitive to daylight hours, so for planting you need to choose only zoned varieties or achieve local selection. Varieties bred in northern regions, in the south, with short daylight hours, they may not form a bulb at all. When creating your collection of favorites in the garden, include representatives from different groups. Hot varieties are distinguished by high keeping quality and productivity, semi-sharp and sweet varieties have good taste qualities.

A guaranteed harvest can be obtained by planting old local varieties. In different regions, Strigunovsky, Rostov local, Bessonovsky, Spassky, Mstersky, Pogarsky, Timiryazevsky received popular fame. They are zoned quite widely and are known among gardeners throughout Central Russia and beyond.

Of the widely zoned spicy varieties and hybrids, it is worth noting Golden Semko, Centurion and Stuttgarter Risen.

Golden Semko - early ripening with a large round golden bulb, which is formed in one season directly from seeds; gives high yield; cultivated in all regions of Russia.

Centurion - a low-shooting hybrid with a mid-early ripening period; the bulbs are golden, medium-sized, slightly elongated; resistant to diseases.

Stuttgarter Risen - mid-season with large, slightly flattened bulbs.

Peninsular varieties for Middle zone Russia: Zolotnichok, Odintsovets, Sputnik, Myachkovsky 300, Red Baron.

Zolotnichok - mid-early with golden round bulbs.

Myachkovsky 300 - early high-yielding with flattened yellow bulbs of medium size; Suitable for growing turnips directly from seeds.

Red Baron - early date maturation; The bulbs are dark purple, round, weighing up to 150 g.

Good varieties and hybrids of sweet onions: Exhibition, Ritmo, Comet.

Exhibition - medium ripening with large oval yellow bulbs; suitable for growing as an annual crop from seeds; has high yield, but low shelf life.

Comet - late ripening with large white bulbs; resistant to diseases and suitable for long-term storage.

It can be difficult for beginning gardeners to decide which onion to plant. After all, not only taste and yield are important here, but also shelf life and disease resistance. Moreover, the same variety in different soil and climatic conditions can show different results. So pick up to 5 different varieties, in order to highlight your favorites in 2-3 seasons.

Subtleties of plant care

Young seedlings need regular (1-2 times a week) and moderate watering, followed by loosening the rows to restore root aeration. As the head begins to form, the frequency of watering is reduced, and a month before harvesting it is not carried out at all for successful ripening of the bulb. However, in case of severe drought, it is recommended to sprinkle with a small volume of water.

They pose a serious threat to seedlings weeds, so weeding must be timely. Hilling up of plants and close loosening is not allowed. Weeds in the row are removed manually so as not to damage the bulb with a weak root system.

Many summer residents advise carrying out one or even two feedings per season. However, there is no need for them on fertile soils, filled with organic matter in the fall. On poor soils, the first fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizers (horse manure, bird droppings, mullein) is carried out about a month after planting. The second feeding is carried out during the formation of the turnip, using phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To prevent root burns, fertilizing is carried out after moistening the soil and before watering.

Some bulbs store well, remaining firm all winter, while others suddenly begin to actively sprout, especially store-bought ones.

Housewives are trying to put such heads to work as quickly as possible, although they could leave it for greenery if they knew how to grow sprouted onions at home. Why buy expensive onion feathers out of season when you can get them yourself from bulbs that have sprouted ahead of time?

Growing sprouted onions indoors

To obtain a strong and juicy green feather, you will need a container, regular soil or water. If you want the feather to grow faster and more abundantly, you need a phytolamp or a regular fluorescent lamp.

We purchase special containers for growing onions or use egg trays, cutting off the bottom of the cells and placing them in a tray with water. Next we do this:

If you are using a special container, pour water into it to the indicated mark and close it with a lid with holes for the onions. The technology is no different from using egg trays - they don’t cost us anything at all.
We place the sprouted onions in the recesses so that only the roots are in the water, and the onions remain above the water. Otherwise, they will quickly rot without producing a harvest.
We regularly change the water in the container to replenish the air supply. To enrich the water with oxygen, you can use an aquarium aerator.

Onions grow in tap water? Be sure to settle it before pouring it into the container. We keep the planted onions on a light windowsill.

If we want to grow onion greens in the ground, we use containers with holes in the bottom and trays, since onions growing in containers with a solid bottom have brittle and flaccid feathers. The substrate can be anything: universal fertile soil, sphagnum moss or sawdust.

Planting sprouted onions

To understand how to grow sprouted onions at home, we study the following planting technology:

Laying drainage. We place two centimeters of drainage in the form of pebbles, broken bricks or expanded clay on the bottom of the vessel: it allows the roots to breathe and retains moisture.
Backfilling the soil. If you use garden soil, be sure to steam it, protecting the onions from infection with diseases. But it is still better to prefer light universal soil, sold in garden stores.
Checking bulbs for signs of rot. Before planting, we inspect the sprouted onions, removing the top layer of husk from them. They should not be rotten or covered with white or dark dots.
Planting bulbs. We plant the onions in the substrate, pressing them tightly against each other. Heads planted out of season do not grow, but dry out, so they are planted as closely as possible. The container will accommodate more bulbs, which means a lot of greenery will grow.

After planting the onion, sprinkle it with a layer of substrate, leaving a third of the head uncovered.

Caring for onions when forcing feathers

To obtain abundant, strong greenery, we provide the onion plantings with proper care:

Lighting. For a week we put containers with onions in a cool, not very bright place: let the root system grow. Then we put them on a well-lit windowsill.
Temperature. In the place where the onion grows, the temperature should be 20-27 degrees: the warmer it is, the faster the feather grows. However, it needs protection from overheating if the containers are in a sunny place: we wrap them in foil.
Watering. We water the substrate as it dries, without getting carried away with frequent watering: it is better to water less often, but abundantly. We do not allow the soil to become waterlogged, otherwise the onion will rot and dry out: the feather will not be juicy and tasteless.

Sprouted onions planted in the ground do not need fertilizing. If you want to speed up the forcing of greenery, once every two weeks we water the plantings with a solution of wood ash (5 grams per 1 liter of water).

Now it’s clear how to grow sprouted onions at home in containers with water, soil or other substrate. But it is better to choose the second option: it allows you to get much more greenery than when grown in water.

Hello friends! Planting onions It’s a serious matter, because it doesn’t always work out for everyone. Many people advise planting onion sets when it becomes very warm, they say that early planting can cause them to go into arrows. But in fact, it shoots if the temperature is very low or zero, that is, there is a large difference between day and night temperatures. There are others, no less important, mainly They are main reasons shooting onions - sets.

Firstly: due to improper storage of the sevka, it cannot be stored at low positive temperatures, that is, above +3º, but below +18º. It should be stored in a dry place at a temperature from 0 to +2 degrees, but not higher. Humidity 70 - 75% and always in a ventilated place. If you store it in a cardboard box, then know that it is not best option, since the cardboard becomes wet during storage and this moisture will transfer to the stored onions. You can also store it in a dry and hot place. Previously, it was stored on a Russian stove on a shelf.

Secondly: very large set, more than 2 cm in diameter. If it is smaller than this size, then, as a rule, it does not shoot.

About the size of the sets

8 - 14 mm, these are small bulbs, they do not bolt almost at all, but in poor soil they will grow into small turnips, or they may lag behind larger seeds in development.
14 - 21 mm is best size sets for planting on turnips.
21 - 24 mm is a large fraction; if such a seed was stored incorrectly, then many varieties can bolt. However, if the storage conditions are met and it is properly processed before planting, then this is a good option: it ripens early and produces almost 100% of the harvest.
24 - 30 mm - this type of seeding is best used for producing greens, since there is a large percentage of shoots.

How to choose sets

It must be without stains dry, dense, without damage, mold. If the onion is damp, be sure to dry it.

About timing and boarding

Soil

Good predecessors for onions will be cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, in general, all those crops for which a lot of fertilizers have been applied. If you were unable to allocate such a place for onions, then in the fall add 1 square meter. meter about a bucket of cow humus, a teaspoon of nitrophoska, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, a handful of wood ash. By the way, onions love ash very much.

In our area, all this has to be done in the spring, because if I do it in the fall, then everything will be washed away with the spring waters.

But if you are luckier, then it is better to prepare the bed in the fall and dig it up again in the spring.

For onions you need loose, fertile soil, clay soil is not for him. If this is exactly what you have, then try to add humus, peat, sand under the onion (coarse sand is needed, fine construction sand will not work, it cakes) - in general, make it moisture-permeable, breathable, and light.

In the second feeding In addition to mullein, superphosphate and ash, you need to add 5 g of potassium sulfate, which is responsible for the good ripening of the bulbs and the accumulation of sugar in them.

Third feeding- at the end of June exactly the same as the second.

Do not use potassium chloride, and stop all fertilizing a month before harvesting. In other words, let the onions already ripen in July.

After watering, fertilizing and rains, loosening is mandatory. A month before harvesting, I stop watering and fertilizing.

On heavy soils, you need to do unhilling or raking, that is, rake the soil away from the bulbs so that only the roots remain in it (in the ground). This must be done carefully so as not to damage the plant. This procedure will help the onions to form and ripen faster. Since our soils are heavy, I also use raking and do this in the first half of June. By the way, this operation can be carried out on any soil, then the onion fly larvae are not easily hatched, and the bulbs themselves calmly grow in breadth.

If the weather is rainy and the onion does not ripen, help it, just damage it root system digging up the plant. 2-4 days after this, you can remove the onions, if the weather permits.

Don’t be late with harvesting; 10-15 days after the feathers are laid down, new roots may begin to grow and the plant will resume growth. Then it will be very difficult to preserve the onion. Onions begin to be harvested after lodging of the leaves of 50% of the plants. It is advisable to carry out the cleaning before the August rainy season; it is best to do this at the beginning of August, in the very first days, especially if the weather is good.

After harvesting, the onion needs to be dried well, and only then the leaves are trimmed, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. It needs to be laid well dried, then it can be stored for a very long time in a dry and well-lit place.

So, let's summarize: in order to get an onion harvest, you need to - choose the right size of the set for planting, dry it, warm it up and subject it to other necessary processing, properly prepare the soil, plant it at the right time, fertilize until the end of June, unhilling and weeding at the beginning of June , watering, loosening, and cleaning up in time.

All the best and see you later, friends!