Stand for working with a jigsaw. Convenient DIY accessories for power tools

Our portal has already talked about what opportunities open up for a home craftsman who decides to make his own furniture. In the article you can read about basic principles and the “tricks” that professional carpenters and proper cabinetmakers use in their work.

Continuing the topic we started, in this article we talk about what tools a novice carpenter needs, and which of the popular sets are worth purchasing “for growth.”

• Where to start choosing tools for making furniture;
• Is it possible to make high-quality furniture without special tools?
• What is the minimum set of good hand tools that a beginning carpenter needs? Our rating;
• How to choose power tools for the workshop;
• What power tools do professional cabinetmakers use. The best tool from a professional point of view;
• How to approach setting up a furniture workshop;
• What is the difference between a jointer and a planer?

How to approach the choice of carpentry tools

A firm decision has been made to engage self-production furniture. However, desire alone is not enough - you need the appropriate tool. This is where the main pitfall lies.

Many novice craftsmen believe that without a large assortment of expensive and professional tools it is impossible to make high-quality furniture. The result of this popular approach is well known. A beginner either does not dare to start work, believing that “I won’t be able to do anything without this device,” or goes to the other extreme - he “runs around” shopping, buying the best tool, without even understanding whether he needs one or another, and how to use it.

However, on initial stage It’s quite possible to get by with a minimal set of reliable amateur-level tools. The main thing is to give yourself the opportunity to consciously approach the choice, guided by the principle: buy tools for the carpentry workshop as needed.

A clear example of this approach is a bed made by the husband of a member of our portal with the nickname ReginaPiter.

ReginaPiter User FORUMHOUSE

My husband and I moved for permanent residence to the village. We needed a double bed. The husband decided to make it himself, although before that he had never held a small hammer in his hands or made anything at all. My husband told me his vision, and I drew the bed in a special program. As a result, we settled on this option.

The boards and balusters that went on the legs of the bed were purchased at a nearby store building materials. The work began to boil, and this is what the novice master ended up with.

The most interesting thing is that this correct bed was made with a minimal set of hand tools, and all the parts were cut out with a reliable garden hacksaw “taken” from my wife!

ReginaPiter

You could buy a ready-made bed in a store, but the pleasure from the work, and most importantly, the end result, cannot be compared with anything. The husband, as they say, got a taste for it, continued carpentry and after the bed made an insulated front door, and then the table.

Conclusion: you need to start making furniture by making simple products that will require the most basic reliable tools: stools, simple beds, simple tables, shelves, etc. And only after time, with the growth of skill, can you think about purchasing an expensive and professional instrument. This is the only way to guarantee that the purchase will be in demand and will not turn out to be a waste of money.

In “furniture carpentry” the main thing is to “feel” the wood, learn to use the tool, and understand whether you like this work. Only in this case will you create products that will become a source of pride for you.

You should also figure out in advance what kind of furniture you will make, cabinet furniture - cabinets, or whole kitchen sets etc., or soft - sofas, armchairs. Or your soul is more drawn to durable designer furniture, with an abundance of complex figured and carved elements. Each direction requires its own specific tool, but you need to start with the formation of a basic and universal set.

The most popular tools for the home carpenter.

Tools for wood carpentry

To make things easier for yourself, all necessary tool can be divided into three large groups:

1. Hand tool;
2. Equipment and Consumables;
3. Power tool.

Let's take a closer look at each of these groups.

Hand tools include:

• Hand saw for wood and metal;
• Hand planes and jointers;
• Hand jigsaw;
• Set of wood chisels;
• Iron claw hammer;
• Mallet with a rubber or wooden striker;
• Furniture stapler;
• Pliers;
• Shoe knife;
• Awl;
• Adjustable wrench;
• Set of screwdrivers with straight or Phillips blade;
• wire cutters

Equipment and consumables:

• Workbench vice;
• Clamps. They act as a “third hand”, allowing you to fix parts during processing or gluing;
• Pencil and marker;
• Forstner drills. Used for drilling blind holes with a flat bottom (for internal hinges) in wood and slab materials: Chipboard, MDF, etc. Due to their design, such drills do not tear wood fibers, leaving behind a smooth surface;
• Ring crowns for wood. Used for cutting through round holes of large diameter (20-130 mm) in wood, chipboard sheets, etc.;
• Metal drills with a diameter of 2 to 10 mm, in increments of 0.5 to 1 mm;
• Drill bits with carbide tip. Used for drilling into concrete to hang shelves, etc.;
• Set of bits for a screwdriver;
• Set of wood drills, diameter from 2 to 12 mm.

Measuring tools should be placed in a separate group.

This includes:

• Tape measure from 3 to 5 meters long;
• Metal ruler from 50 to 100 cm long;
• Metal square with a side of 30 cm;
• Level 50-60 cm long.

By adding to this set just impact drill and a screwdriver, a person with “hands” can do a lot. In addition to making furniture, these tools can be used for any repairs in the house or country house.

Also, do not forget about the need for a workbench, because... It’s impossible to work normally “on your knees” and get a quality product.

Sitnikoff FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

A furniture workshop is unthinkable without a workbench. I made my first workbench from a 100x50 mm board. The boards were “waste” - left over from waste at a construction site. Therefore, the workbench turned out to be not the most successful, but it still serves me as an editing table.

Choosing power tools for a carpentry workshop

If there are usually no problems with choosing a hand tool, then when it comes to choosing a power tool, a lot of questions arise. Therefore, it is important to make a basic list of the essentials.

To the so-called Basic power tools, without which it is impossible or difficult to make furniture, include:

• Electric drill;
• Electric screwdriver;
• Jigsaw;
• Belt sander.

This set is enough to start making, albeit not the most complex, but high-quality products. In the future, as skill grows and the work becomes more complex, the list the best tools will be replenished.

When choosing a power tool for a novice craftsman, the main thing is not to go to extremes, buying only the cheapest models or chasing expensive professional products from one high-quality manufacturer. It is worth sticking to the golden mean of “price/quality” and choosing a tool not according to its cost, but one that will be convenient for you to use.

Beginning carpenters often have a question: do they need such power tools as milling machine, jointer, surface planer, circular electric saws and at what stage they need to be purchased and what to consider when purchasing, except for the price.

Archimed User FORUMHOUSE

I thought about equipping my workshop. I need to process the boards for wall cladding, and in the future I plan to make furniture. With a good hand tool everything is clear, but there are a lot of questions about using an electric one, and you have to “fit into the budget.” I need expert advice on what I should buy and what I will need in the future. So far my rating is:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• grinder;
• jigsaw;
• electric plane;
• circular saw;
• manual frezer;
• thickness planer.

Topic created Archimed, caused a wide response. Many professional craftsmen offered their own options for equipping the workshop.

Sitnikoff User FORUMHOUSE

When I first started carpentry, I needed to make a simple workbench, and all I had was a bow saw, a drill, an old plane, several chisels, Forstner drills and a shoe knife. All. But I made a workbench. Now, after 10 years of carpentry, my ranking of the best tools is as follows:

• Milling table with router;
• Manual frezer;
• Belt and eccentric sander;
• Miter saw;
• Tabletop a circular saw;
• Several electric planers;
• Electric jigsaw, electric drills and screwdrivers;
• Dust removal system;
• Grinder;
• Compressor for a carpentry workshop with a spray gun;
• Thicknesser.

This is not the entire list of power tools. Plus, I had to pick up a lot of hand tools.

Moreover, Sitnikoff does not plan to stop there and is thinking of acquiring:

• Joiner;
• Band saw;
• Drilling machine;
• Wood lathe;
• Install a chip removal and air ventilation system.

Summarizing

Answering the question asked Archimed, we can say that the possible set of tools for a furniture maker is directly proportional to his budget, the planned volume and complexity of the work and, most importantly, the area of ​​the workshop. After all, the entire tool will have to be placed somewhere - so that it is convenient to use, and access to it is safe and not limited or difficult.

You can make furniture while working in a limited area, in an apartment, on a balcony, in a hallway. But any master sooner or later comes to the need to build his own workshop. Moreover, a well-planned workshop, with connected communications, well insulated, in which you can work all year round, without regard to weather conditions and daylight hours.

To have a guide for the future and understand what you will need to equip your furniture workshop for growth, you can use the following list. This:

• Stationary circular saw and milling machine;
• Miter saw;
• Circular plunge-cut saw with guide bar;
• Band-saw;
• Thicknesser;
• Stationary jointer.

You should pay attention to the last two machines, because... Sometimes novice carpenters get confused about their purpose.

For a jointer, the blade shaft is located in the table, i.e. below, so this machine sets a flat plane - the “base”. Jointer, unlike a thicknesser, does not make the workpiece the same thickness.

In a surface planer, the knife is located on top, so this machine makes a plane parallel to the “base”. If you put a workpiece with a “screw” or “hump” into a surface planer, then at the output we will get a planed curved workpiece.

Therefore, first we give the workpiece a plane (we make a “base”), removing the “screw” or “saber” with a jointer, then we plane the workpiece to a given thickness with a surface planer.

Conclusion: you should not purchase an expensive, complex, professional instrument “in reserve,” but only after moving to a new stage of your development as a master. In other words, you buy this or that tool only when you understand that your carpentry workshop is already a small workshop and it is impossible to make any furniture parts without it.

When working with power tools and machines, you must follow safety precautions. Namely: put on safety glasses and thick clothing, button up your sleeves, and tuck your hair under your headdress to be safe. In a carpentry workshop, there must be a first aid kit in a visible place.

And what should a cabinetmaker’s workplace be like?

This is our first idea that started it all. Design solution, when turned upside down, it is attached to the tabletop and then fixed between the bearings - this is not a new idea. It is presented in numerous versions on the Internet, but we wanted to go further and bring something new and unique to this solution. So our carpentry workbench, which can be purchased in our workshop, is presented below.

Our idea

Most of the designs described on the Internet are stationary solutions, that is, they are mounted on some kind of large surface, and transportation or the ability to fold and remove the machine is not expected. There are many options when one worker is equipped with various hand-held power tools, for example, a milling cutter, etc. In this case, the versatility of such a comprehensive solution takes place, but mobility and transformation are also not provided for in this case.

There are solutions when the machine is not large and can be easily moved and removed. But it is not designed to be easily disassembled and folded into a compact form. An example of such a machine is described in the article "".

Our idea is to make a set of devices that would easily integrate with each other and complement each other, while expanding functionality. In addition to integration during operation, our tools must be able to integrate during storage. For example, be some components one case that can easily find its place on a closet or mezzanine.

Thus, our developments will be most useful to those who have limited storage space and space for work. When there is a spacious workshop or large warm garage, then there is plenty of space (although it varies), but if you want to tinker in an apartment, this option is simply necessary.

"Two in one"

The sketches and drawings immediately outlined quite a few options for such devices and machines, but we decided to start with the most basic thing that a master might need in the first place, namely a workbench. It all starts with him, because it is the workbench that forms workplace, which should be convenient to work with. In parallel with the workbench, a machine was developed using, since the sawing operation is the most common and in demand. We talked about the choice and files for it in articles. This is how the case turned out, one half of which is a workbench, and the other is a sawing machine made of . Both halves can be used both together and separately.

We can offer drawings of our devices.
To receive them you need:
— Pay a nominal fee (200 rub.)
— Repost this article on social media (under the article there is a button - press it and you’re done!)
— Write a review (comment) under this article.

In order to use our devices you need a table that is as stable as possible. Fastening to the table is carried out using clamps. This type of mount was chosen specifically because installation is quite quick and simple. The base shape is square (edge ​​length – 500mm). This is also obvious - for versatility. The attachment is made to the edge of the table, and the design is designed in such a way that it can be installed on both the left and right sides of the table.

All elements are made of polished 15 mm thick.

Crafting table

The main purpose of the workbench is to create a convenient working space for work. Since many operations with workpieces involve their rigid fastening, we have developed a design that allows you to fasten workpieces of different shapes and sizes. The resulting design allows you to fasten the workpiece in the following ways:

• Emphasis.

• Clamps. The tabletop has special slots into which clamps are installed, and the workpiece is fastened in seconds and quite reliably.

• Vise. If you attach any board to the tabletop with clamps, then a vice (not included) can be easily installed on this board.

• Side clamp. In another way, it can be called a side vice, since it is a persistent board that is pressed with clamps, which are also installed in special slots.

If the thrust board is turned over, its top edge will be higher than the plane of the base of the workbench. This option is used when it is necessary to clamp a wide workpiece, one of the sides of which will rest against the installed stops.

Since the workbench is made of, you don’t have to worry about the table on which it will be installed - if you don’t overtighten the clamps, then even a varnished table won’t be in any danger. Due to the fact that the space between the working surface of the workbench and the table itself is closed, shavings and sawdust, getting inside through the holes of the stops, do not scatter throughout the room, but accumulate inside - the result is an improvised dust collector.

Sawing machine

As already mentioned above, the fundamental design of such a homemade wall is not original, there are analogues. However, it is necessary to note some features of our option:

• it is fixed not by two (as in many samples), but by three rollers (bearings), where one is transverse, against which it rests. If you use only two bearings, then during prolonged sawing, firstly, it will overheat faster due to one more friction plane (accordingly, the file may become deformed; it will fail faster; the quality of the saw deteriorates), and secondly, the metal plate, which the file presses on will sooner or later wear out and have to be replaced.

• The fixation bracket can be installed in two positions - on the left or the edge of the base farthest from the master. This allows you to turn it over if necessary. In the position when the bracket is installed on the left edge of the tabletop, it is possible to saw workpieces that are not limited in length, but not wider than 300 mm (the distance from the saw to the vertical part of the bracket).

Accordingly, everything is the other way around, when when the bracket is installed on the edge of the tabletop farthest from the master, it is possible to saw workpieces that are not limited in width, but not longer than 300 mm (the distance from the vertical part of the bracket). The photo below shows the design elements of the bracket.

• The bar with fixing rollers is height adjustable. This allows you to optimally select the fixing distance (from the tabletop level to the bottom edge of the plank). The lower the bar, the better the fixation. It can even be very convenient to saw when the longitudinal roller (on which it rests) rolls along the workpiece. In any case, the important thing is the length, which will allow you to install the bar with fixing rollers as high as possible. The sizes and parameters of jigsaw files are described in detail in another article.
• Inside the base there is an electrical part - a socket and a switch, the wire is laid in a cable channel. If you simply plug the jigsaw's wire into a socket, then to turn it on you will need to look under the table, find the power button, turn on the jigsaw and lock the button in the pressed position. In our version with the electrical part, all these operations are performed not under the table, where it is dark and uncomfortable, but at the time the jigsaw is installed. In this case, turning the jigsaw on and off occurs by simply pressing the switch, which is located in a convenient place.

• The base is rigidly fixed to the work table with two clamps, preventing it from moving during operation.

Sharing

As was said at the very beginning, our idea is to make a certain set of devices and machines that would allow them to be used together, while expanding the functionality, so our workbench and jigsaw can be used together.

Working on a workbench

When working on a workbench, a sawing machine can be installed nearby (on the left or right). This allows you to double the working surface of the workbench, which makes it possible to work with longer workpieces.

Working on the machine

As in the previous case, when adding a machine to the workbench, we get an expansion of the work table, which allows you to work with larger workpieces. But in this case, the position of the bracket is uniquely determined - on the side farthest from the master.

Assembling the case for transportation and storage

If necessary, the workbench and machine can be folded as two halves, resulting in one case (suitcase). It should be noted that all components are placed inside, nothing unnecessary will remain outside the case. Everything inside is securely fastened, so nothing is loose. Even the fasteners have their own box inside so as not to be lost. In the internal space there is a special place for the jigsaw itself, as well as clamps, so the set is complete and complete.

The case has a removable handle, which is installed in special slots and is simply removed during operation so that it does not interfere.

The case is assembled and disassembled in a matter of seconds. Special hooks are installed on one side (they are removed in the working position), and two “suitcase” latches are installed on the front side.

Quality

Each product contains a piece of the master, so we approach each of our work with soul and try to do it conscientiously. We try to avoid backlash and unnecessary gaps; all components are carefully processed (sanded, for example), sharp edges are filled to prevent chips, etc. Of course, you need to understand what this is handmade and it’s not 100% ideal - you can find fault if you really want to, but we are improving our developments in the direction of technology and quality. Take, for example, a screwed-in foot - it should not stick out or be recessed.

Conclusion

We hope that you will like our idea and even if you do not purchase it from us, but simply the presented material will be interesting and useful to you, then our efforts were not in vain. We will be grateful for your feedback and suggestions.

Before this, the jigsaw was used only in rough cutting areas or for cutting sheet material. I worked with large saws several times and each time I wondered why they were needed at all, if they were always taken away decently. But if you place a jigsaw on a table, its functionality increases significantly. It turns out that a jigsaw can replace (as far as possible) a circular saw, a band saw, grinding machine for delicate work. I saw the design on a blog markellov , for which I thank him very much! I placed my version on a folding workbench. Table size 36x36 cm. The table itself is made of 12 mm plywood. The machine is completely disassembled and stored in a cabinet. The guide is fixed with 2 wing screws.

Blocks under the table for fixing the entire device to the workbench, and also allow you to place fasteners for the upper guide support.

The jigsaw is fixed to the table with just one screw. To do this, I chose a quarter of the thickness of the platform in an oak block. In the other block, the quarter was made at an angle of more than 90 degrees and the platform fits into it with a wedge, so displacement during work in all 4 directions is excluded.

I saw it on the net Incredible quality of workmanship table, but for this you need to try very, very hard. There are also ready The bourgeoisie has a solution, but as I understand it, this is most likely for some very minor work. The top guide bracket is height adjustable to accommodate different blades. I thought for a long time about how to make it with a high degree of rigidity and at the same time avoid its bulkiness. Since the device itself does not have side walls that could serve as a support for the bracket, I had to tinker a little. There is a pine block in the center, a T-shaped steel profile is screwed to it and the whole thing is covered with 12 mm plywood, which provides rigidity to the upper guide. This is what ended up happening.

A unit for fixing the edge of the blade, like in a band saw, allows you to work with long blades without moving to the side. The option with bearings initially seemed to me the most workable, but then I still chose the option with oak guides. On wide blades like band saws, the use of bearings is more justified, but here it is more convenient to adjust the gap between the blades by moving inserts like these.

The result is a fairly compact machine for small sawing jobs. Now you can cut cabrioles too. The height of the cut depends on the length of the blade.

P.S.: MAIN, what needs to be taken into account when working with a jigsaw in this position is the tossing of the part during operation, since the saw teeth in this case “look” up. It is necessary to fix the part from above, like in sewing machines. In my case, the bracket lowers and the lower part of the guide assembly prevents the workpiece from jumping. Perhaps over time I will make a fixing foot.

Making a classic German-type wooden carpentry workbench. Finally it came to the teacher's workbench in our educational workshop. I had a free minute to make a workbench for myself, rather than using the students’ workbenches. The choice fell on a classic wooden workbench, I call it a German-type workbench, the one that I remember from labor lessons at school, with transverse (front) L-shaped vices and box-shaped longitudinal (rear) ones.

The board for the workbench board, 40 mm thick, was rallied into

Of course, the photo shows a shield already processed to size on a surface planer. It’s standing here just as an example of how it works (I didn’t have time to remove it when I was gluing the shield to rough). The binding of a bench board with a thickness of 40mm and a width of 120mm is assembled using a dovetail, which is made on a circular machine using
To position the workpieces, a homemade template made of plywood and polycarbonate is used. Thanks to them, the workpieces are accurately and reliably fixed in the carriage, and the fingers are intact))))))

Thus, the mating parts of the dovetail and preliminary cuts of the dovetail itself are made. The beveled edges are trimmed with a saw set at an angle of 7 degrees. I check the angle with a Marples square

For more accurate and reliable fixation of the workpiece in the carriage, we use

You cannot do without using hand tools. We trim what could not be removed on the machine using a New Concept manual jigsaw

and carpenter's chisels

The binding of the bench board is ready

In order to make the binding of the bench board more stable, we cut into it on the dovetail what we conventionally call frames, otherwise - transverse bars-spacers. Fyodor Alekseevich Bondarev advised us to use this in the design, for which he received a separate Russian merci.

We check that the dovetail nests are strictly mirror-image.

Now let's deal directly with the panel of the bench board; we need to drill holes in it for the stops. This is done on drilling machine using a Fisch forstner drill

We make tongues and grooves and folds on a circular machine using type-setting disks using a homemade plywood carriage.

When selecting tongues and folds under the bottom of the bench board, which increases the accuracy and safety of work

After assembling dry and checking the accuracy of all connections, we assemble the entire structure of the bench board with glue and using their own (Piher) clamps.

The bench board is glued together.

Additionally, we tighten the binding of the bench board to the shield at the point where the solid line breaks with 12mm “wood grouse”

When fitting the parts, a cross-cut plane from Veritas was used

The “beauty” of the box-shaped longitudinal vice was cut out using a band saw, followed by processing and rasps.

We assemble the box of rear (longitudinal) vices.

Zenzubels, plain and grooved will help us accurately fit all the ridges and tongues.

Install

In hard-to-reach places we use a Kanzawa angle attachment for a screwdriver.

We install the front vice and reinforce it with a tie rod - a threaded rod.

Now all that remains is to level the bench board. We are working

Hello to all DIY lovers!

Anyone who often has to work with a jigsaw knows that it is very inconvenient to place a jigsaw on a workbench or table, and it is also inconvenient to take it for work later due to the fact that the jigsaw has a file protruding from the bottom.
As a result, the jigsaw always has to be placed on its side, twisting the hand, and also at the risk of hitting the saw on the workbench, which can lead to its breakage. In the same way, you have to twist your hand and take it. Of course, this doesn’t really matter if you don’t have to work with the jigsaw very much, since in this case you can be patient. However, if the amount of work is large, and also if your jigsaw is quite powerful and heavy, then this inconvenience is significantly annoying and leads to rapid fatigue working hand and significantly reduces the quality of work.

To solve this problem, I decided to make a special stand, quite simple to make.

Below is a drawing of this stand.

From the drawing, I think everything is quite clear, however, I want to clarify one important point, in my opinion.
As you can see from the drawing, I made a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would have been possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. But the fact is that it is much more convenient to insert a file into the wedge-shaped slot, wide at the base, while installing the jigsaw on the stand, as they say, without “aiming” and without being distracted from work. Moreover, the wider the wedge of the slot at the base, the more convenient it is to place the jigsaw on the stand. At the same time, if you make a wedge wide enough at the base, which is wider than the jigsaw slide, then the jigsaw will stand unstable and may even tip over backwards. Therefore, in this case, it is better to choose the golden mean, that is, make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to place the jigsaw on the stand, and so that it stands securely.

For example, I (as can be seen from the drawing) chose the size of the width of the base of the slot to be approximately 78 mm. As practice has shown, this is quite enough for it to be convenient to place the jigsaw on the stand, and for it to stand securely and firmly on it. If you decide to make the same stand, choose the specified size depending on the width of the slide of your jigsaw.
One more point I want to note. As you can see in the drawing, I made the front and back of the stand semicircular. But I decided to do this only for beauty, so if you want to simplify the task a little, you can just make the stand rectangular.
So, let's finally start making the stand.

Materials and tools

For this we need the following accessories:

Materials and fasteners:

A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long;

Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.

Tools:

Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square);

A jigsaw with a file for shaped cutting;

Electric drill-screwdriver;

Metal drill with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm;

Hole saw for wood (wood crown) with a diameter of 28 mm;

Screwdriver bit RN2, for driving screws;

20 mm wrench, for tightening and unscrewing the nut of a wood hole saw;

Sandpaper.

Manufacturing process

To begin with, as always, we mark the blank board of our stand according to the drawing. By the way, it should be noted that although the length of our future stand is only 20 cm, nevertheless, the length of the workpiece board must be taken a little longer (15-20 cm) in order to conveniently secure the workpiece during its processing.
In order to mark curved surfaces on the workpiece, you can use any round object of sufficiently large diameter. For example, I took a plastic jar in which I store various small items.

Then we drill blind holes from the bottom of the workpiece for the leg screws.

Then we cut out a wedge in the workpiece with a jigsaw, and then we cut out the entire stand.

We sand the stand with sandpaper and screw the leg screws into it.

And now our stand is ready.

We place a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand stably, we adjust the screws that act as legs.

Moreover, we can even give the stand a slight tilt back if we screw in the rear leg screws a little deeper. In my opinion, it will be more convenient.

You can use this stand both while working and to store the jigsaw somewhere on a shelf or rack.
And finally, I want to give important advice for those who want to make the same stand. The fact is that the height of the stand must be selected depending on the length and, accordingly, on the amount of overhang of the file you are using. For example, I almost always (with rare exceptions) use a saw for figure cutting on wood. The length of the working part of such a file is 50 mm, and the maximum overhang is about 50 mm. Therefore, the stand height of 60 mm is quite enough for me. If, for example, a jigsaw accidentally turns on while it is standing on a stand, then the saw at maximum reach will not reach the workbench on which the stand stands by a full centimeter. Accordingly, it will not break or damage the workbench.

If you use longer files, then naturally you need to increase the height of the stand. Moreover, this is very easy to do if you use longer screws with a press washer as the legs of the stand, say 80-100 mm long. These screws are available in wide range sizes, and you can buy them at any hardware store.

Well, that's probably all. All the best and bye!