Do-it-yourself garage oven: a review of the best homemade options. Stove for the garage (photos, drawings, video) Homemade stove for the garage with your own hands

The temperature requirements in the garage differ from those in the house, because a person stays here for a long time only when carrying out some work on the car, and the rest of the time there is only the vehicle itself. However, to store the car, a certain temperature must still be maintained, so it is still relevant for the garage, especially for regions with cold climates. It is easy to make such a heating device with your own hands.

About the temperature in the garage

In such a room it is not easy to equip a traditional heating system, and all this will be quite expensive. On the other hand, the optimal air temperature must be maintained in the garage, because it is not recommended to store the car at temperatures less than +5 degrees, while carrying out any work requires a minimum +18 degrees.

Typically, compact, economical stoves with fairly high efficiency and good heating of the room are used. It is also important that the stove warms up the garage quickly and is safe at the same time. It’s a big plus if various types of waste can act as fuel - wood, for example, or. This will make heating your garage even cheaper.

Note! Portable electric heaters for garages are almost never used because they are ineffective. They are also unsafe, so they should not be left unattended. And no one wants to spend the night in the garage to look after all this.

Garages are rarely well insulated using high-quality thermal insulation materials, and therefore heat loss in such rooms is usually high. In addition, to heat a small area, sometimes much more energy is needed than to heat a house. On average, a heating device with a power of 2.5 kW is enough to heat a garage with a standard area. To maintain a constant temperature of about +16 degrees, you will need a 2 kW oven. Quite often, owners, trying to save money, do not heat the entire garage, but only the area where they work.

On a note! If you properly insulate gates and walls, as well as seal all cracks, you can reduce heat loss and thus save money, since it will be easier to maintain the required temperature.

Types of garage stoves

Before you begin, it’s worth familiarizing yourself with what kind of heating devices are generally used in garages. Here you can install units that run on different fuels - gas and electricity, liquid or solid. It is only necessary that the furnace has a sufficiently high efficiency and consumes as little fuel as possible.

Potbelly stove

One of the most popular options, probably familiar to everyone. compact, simple, heats up quickly and is not picky in terms of the fuel used (you can use almost anything that burns).

On a note! When operating a potbelly stove, you should be careful, otherwise the unit may cause a fire. In addition, potbelly stoves quickly consume fuel, regardless of its type.

Previously, such stoves were used to heat residential premises, but after the advent of central heating they became irrelevant. Therefore, today they can only be found in garages and utility rooms.

As a rule, old gas cylinders or large metal pipes with thick walls are used for DIY. Be that as it may, it is important that the thickness of the material is at least 2 mm, but 5 mm is still better. The body must have a cross-section of at least 30 cm. Also note that a potbelly stove lasts on average for several years.

Table No. 1. What types of stoves are there?

Name, photo	Short description
	The design is convenient to use, as it accommodates quite long logs. The fuel does not need to be crushed before loading. But the horizontal variety is larger than the vertical one.
	A simpler option to manufacture, but with a significant drawback: the combustion chamber will be small, so the fuel will need to be crushed before loading.

Another feature of a potbelly stove is that it gets very hot during operation (sometimes even hot), so it is not easy to be near it. Because of this, designs with two walls appeared. The simplest option is to take barrels of different diameters, insert the smaller one into the larger one, and fill the voids between them with sand or pebbles. The result is a thick-walled unit that is more convenient to use and retains heat longer. On the other hand, a double-walled potbelly stove takes longer to warm up.

Brick oven

Brick is a heat-intensive material, and therefore a stove made from it will store and release heat into the room for a long time. You just need to warm it up thoroughly. The best option for car owners who spend a long time in the garage every day.

They are less common than potbelly stoves, but they are still not as fire hazardous and more convenient. We also note that such a stove must be placed on a reliable foundation, since it weighs a lot.

They are characterized by efficiency and economy; they do not require additional purchase of fuel. A properly equipped furnace will not smoke or release heavy metals into the air (the latter may be present in used engine oil).

Note! For such furnaces, not only machine oil, but also transmission and transformer oil can be used.

In essence, such an oven is a pair of containers connected using a perforated tube. The weight of the unit can reach 30 kg, and it can hold about 12 liters of used oil. Average consumption is 1 liter of fuel per hour of operation. If you decide to make a choice in favor of a furnace for testing, then first think about where you will get the fuel - there certainly won’t be enough oil from one car, provided that the heating unit is constantly used. You can ask the owners of other garages in the neighborhood - maybe they will agree to give you the oil.

The disadvantages of this design include the large length of the chimney (minimum 4 m), which must be positioned strictly vertically and not have any bends. In addition, regular cleaning of the waste container will be required, which can hardly be considered a pleasant task.

Let's get straight to the topic of our article today. Let's start with the fact that such a stove (and you can also make it yourself from a cylinder) operates on the principle of converter combustion. Long-burning units are more complex than the potbelly stoves described above, but still nothing is impossible. You can use coal, wood, pellets, etc. as fuel, but only solid fuel is used.

Important! The cost of such a factory-made stove is quite high, and therefore many, trying to save money, prefer to make it themselves.

Let's get acquainted with the key features of long-burning units.

1. Fuel burns longer. in a conventional firebox they will burn quickly, while in such a furnace they smolder and give off heat for 6 to 10 hours; therefore, the garage will take longer to warm up.
2. Firewood must be compressed before stacking- this way they will not flare up too much, and the smoldering time will increase.
3. Fuel combustion starts from the top(in traditional ovens - from below), and therefore such structures are usually vertical.

Table No. 2. What types of long-burning stoves are there?

Name, photo	Short description
	A popular type of stove, which is sometimes used to heat residential premises. In fact, buleryan is a cross between a potbelly stove and bubafonya (this is another variety, discussed below). The principle of operation is based on forced convection of air - it is supplied from below, heated and discharged from above already heated.
	A similar design appeared more than 6 years ago; it is highly efficient and simple. You can use anything as fuel - from ordinary firewood to sawdust. The disadvantage of the stove is its cleaning: to remove ash you have to turn the unit over. If you want, you can make your own changes to the design, but in any case it will be simple.

About some important points

Typically, long-burning stoves are made of metal. The optimal metal thickness is 4 mm (more is possible). It is better to make the chimney consisting of several parts to make it easier to clean in the future. The chimney also needs a fairly thick metal - this will extend the service life of the element.

On a note! If you work in the garage often and for a long time, then do not skimp on materials!

For the body, you can use a piece of large pipe, a gas cylinder or an old 200-liter barrel; or, alternatively, it can be welded from pieces of metal. You need to make a hole on top of the body to install the chimney (its diameter should be about 15 cm); another hole (10 cm in diameter) will be required for air flow, without which the wood will not burn.

You will also need a load - it will put pressure on the fuel. This should be a heavy iron circle with a diameter slightly smaller (several millimeters) than the diameter of the body. The circle should have a small air duct through which oxygen will flow.

Step-by-step instructions for making a stove

Step 1. In our example, a simple 250-liter barrel with thick walls is used - ideal for making a stove. Cut off the top of the barrel, but do not throw it away.

Step 2. Make a kind of lid from the top - a “pancake” for oxygen supply. Adjust it to the size of the barrel - as a result, when installed, there should be 2 mm between it and the walls around the entire circumference. Weld the neck of the lid. In its center, make a hole to install a pipe through which air will be supplied. Also weld 4 channels, as in the photo below.

Step 3. Stepping back a little from the top edge, cut another hole in the barrel wall for installing a chimney. In our example, the chimney will be a pipe with a diameter of 140 mm.

Step 4. Start making the lid. Make it from sheet metal 4 mm thick, and weld a sealing ring at the bottom corresponding to the diameter of the barrel. In the center of the lid, make a hole for the pipe that was welded to the “pancake”.

Step 5. Make simple legs at the bottom of the barrel to make the structure stable. The legs must be metal, as well as all other elements.

Step 6. Install the stove in the desired location and begin creating the chimney. In our example, it is of a prefabricated type. First of all, make a clamp with which the chimney will be attached to the body.

Step 7 Make guides in the chimney, thanks to which it can be easily fixed to the body.

Step 8 Connect the barrel to the pipe, making sure to cover all joints with asbestos fabric. Place a clamp over the fabric and tighten it.

Step 9 That's it, the structure is assembled, you can check its functionality. Load sawdust or firewood inside.

Step 10 Add used oil to the fuel, then install the cap. As for the “pancake”, don’t use it yet. After the fuel ignites, remove the lid and place the “pancake”. To fully warm up such a structure, it takes about 10 minutes; in the future, the firewood will burn for a long time. Although exactly how long the combustion will last largely depends on the quality of the fuel.

The easiest and most convenient way to heat a garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many motorists do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable with the heat received due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a stove for a garage using wood or exhaust is not as comfortable to use, but it will certainly be cheaper. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

• so that it generates heat well;
• was suitable for burning any wood;
• fit on the space allocated for her.

Since simple stoves for a garage do not particularly need aesthetics, home craftsmen usually weld them from whatever comes to hand or is found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary; if you find a piece of a large pipe, the stove will be round; if you find some sheet metal, let’s make it rectangular. By and large, this does not matter much; the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of different stoves, but they are all derivatives of a traditional metal potbelly stove. The heater body can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane; this has almost no effect on operating efficiency. The fact is that a homemade vertical stove for the garage, made with your own hands, takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option you like best.

Traditional potbelly stoves do not have a grate; this stove is a hearth stove. The chimney is located in the rear part and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the absence of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals may crumble, making the procedure inconvenient. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a door for cleaning, or even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front part. The design of the furnace promotes increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last passage of gases ends at the front wall, which is why the pipe is in the front. Such a stove for a garage is very effective; it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

Increasing the exchange surface will further increase heat transfer. Craftsmen solved this issue long ago by welding ribs made of strip steel 4-5 mm thick to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and description of welding work, we will give some general recommendations:

• try to take thicker metal, if possible, 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
• when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall; this joint burns out most often;
• external fins significantly improve heat exchange; they can be welded to any stove;
• You can install at least one partition inside, like a two-pass oven;
• It is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburnt coals will spill out.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest garage stove that runs on waste oil is well known to everyone. And, although its drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is simple to manufacture, but there are some nuances during operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, gets into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (a vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be settled to separate the water.

Important. Any furnace used for combustion, as well as for wood, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is the pungent odor during the ignition and warm-up stages. Otherwise, the use of the miracle stove, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. It heats up quite well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not such a fire hazard. The principle by which such an oil stove operates is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertical pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, a liquid fuel stove can also burn diesel fuel; you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Some of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - an afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace structure is shown in the drawing:

As a body, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane cylinder. The range of the remaining metal is indicated in the drawing; we will not list it again. Instead, let’s focus on the method of air supply; it can be of two types:

• natural, due to chimney draft;
• forced pumping by a fan.

A homemade drip stove made from a pipe can also operate at low draft if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by installing a fan that forces air inside the afterburner. Then, looking into the operating furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, tested by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to install radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during long stays indoors in winter. The warning for oil heaters is the same as for wood heaters: if there is a high-rise residential building in the immediate vicinity, you will have to return to the idea of ​​heating with electricity.

Self-installation of a stove in a garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, you need to ensure the operation of the heater, and secondly, take fire safety measures. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

• pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
• turns - no more than 3, avoid setting knees at 90º, try to use 45 or 30º;
• if there is a horizontal section, then its length is no more than 1 m;
• It is better to insulate the section of the pipe on the street with basalt wool to prevent the formation of condensation;
• Attach the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the stove.

When installing a wood or oil stove yourself, follow fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

• Place a sheet of metal on the floors under the stove, protruding 1 m from the side of the door;
• combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
• when passing a wooden ceiling through the chimney, ensure a gap of 250 mm between it and the pipe, filling it with basalt fiber;
• in order to protect the flue from being blown in by the wind, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
• Natural supply and exhaust ventilation must function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric stove heating, garage heating is much more economical, and sometimes even more efficient. But the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not be very difficult for a person who has the necessary skills. As a last resort, you can entrust the production to a familiar craftsman, choosing a suitable design.

Centralized heating for most garages that are located far from home is not technologically provided. In winter, a conventional electric heater almost cannot cope with the problem: electricity bills rise, but the amount of heat remains virtually unchanged. There is only one way out of the situation - to make a wood-burning stove for the garage.

This stove will provide great warmth in the winter cold.

Garage heating rules

Garages are almost never insulated from the outside for one reason - this is a rather expensive undertaking for a room in which people are not often present. Yes, and this cannot always be done, for example, in cooperatives, garages are placed quite close to each other, the distance does not make it possible to install thermal insulation.

But the internal insulation of this building can also be very problematic. During the installation of thermal insulation on metal walls, a “dew point” appears at the contact area, that is, a place where condensation begins to accumulate. Almost always, when in contact with moisture, thermal insulation deteriorates very quickly.

And this situation can have a negative impact directly on the garage. In a metal building, you can make thermal insulation, but it is advisable to install the insulation at a certain distance from the wall, approximately 3-6 cm. It is necessary to retreat 6-8 cm from the floor. It is advisable to choose washers as a profile in order to prevent a closed circuit under the floor.

In this video you will learn about the original method of making a long-burning potbelly stove:

During this installation method, condensation will still begin to accumulate, but due to air circulation, the moisture will gradually begin to evaporate without causing significant harm to the room. But for a regularly heated garage, this method is not suitable, since the humidity inside the building will be very high most of the time. This can put both human health and the condition of the vehicle at risk.

As a material for “ventilated” thermal insulation, it is recommended to use slabs, for example, chipboard or fiberboard, that is, self-extinguishing wood materials. In this case, the thickness of the slabs must be at least 5 mm. Ondulin or its analogues are excellent. These plates have the ability to block infrared radiation, which ensures high-quality heating of the room.

But plastic, which even has a damping effect, is prohibited from being installed in a garage. During a fire, this material emits toxic fumes, which can cause poisoning to people in the room. Also, slabs containing asbestos cannot be used as thermal insulation.

When insulating a cold masonry garage, it is recommended to first plaster the walls to protect them from moisture. The metal walls of the building must be painted in several layers, having primed the surface before doing so.

Methods of heating a room

Taking into account the peculiarities of the garage heating system, the stove is required to meet a number of characteristics that it must meet.

A wood stove is the most economical

The basic requirements for heating equipment are as follows:

• use of liquid and solid fuels;
• the oven must be small in size;
• ability to maintain high temperature for a long time;
• have a quick warm-up;
• inexpensive cost;
• simplicity of design;
• ease of maintenance;
• ease of use.

Taking into account these requirements, furnaces are classified into different types.

This division is based on the type of coolant used:

1. Electric stove. There are no questions about the heating efficiency of this stove, but the cost of heat for a garage space will be quite expensive.
2. Solid fuel stove. It has low manufacturing costs and creates an excellent thermal effect.
3. Gas equipment. It is most convenient to use in cases where there is a central gas main nearby.

The optimal solution, which is popular among many car enthusiasts, is a wood-heated stove. This stove can be bought in a store or made by yourself.

Let's make an economical stove with our own hands:

Types of wood stoves

There are various ways to make your own wood-burning stove for the garage. For this building, as a rule, the following heating equipment options are selected:

There are certain advantages and disadvantages to any of the methods for making wood-burning garage stoves. At the same time, we must not forget that some heating equipment can be combined with each other to increase the possibility of heating the garage and make it more profitable and comfortable.

Main advantages:

1. The versatility of the heating device during operation. You can use a garage wood stove for heating or cooking.
2. Relatively inexpensive fuel costs.
3. For production, you can use improvised materials.
4. Easy oven installation.
5. The small size of the heating device makes it versatile when installed in a garage.
6. During operation, no additional devices will be required.
7. Installing a wood-burning stove for heating a garage does not require an additional source of energy (electricity).

The brick oven will last a very long time

Brickwork

In order to build a wood-burning stove, you will need fireclay and refractory bricks. Fireclay powder and refractory clay must be added to the masonry solution. The firebox is installed on the second or third masonry, while the actual masonry, as a rule, is no more than ten. Naturally, you need a chimney device.

It is also laid out from fireclay bricks, and a metal sleeve is installed inside. The chimney must be vented through the roof. When installing a brick oven for a garage, you must not forget that regular changes in humidity in the room after a certain time can worsen the viscosity of the laid mortar, that is, the equipment will not last long.

Potbelly stove design

A potbelly stove is the simplest method of heating. This stove can be easily made from scrap materials. You can use an empty cylinder, sheet steel, or a metal barrel. The most important thing is that the wall thickness is at least 4 mm. If cylinder-shaped products are used, the diameter must be at least 450 mm.

The potbelly stove will become your indispensable assistant in heating the garage

This simple design consists of the following elements:

• grate;
• firebox;
• metal door;
• ash pan;
• blower;
• chimney

For the chimney, it is advisable to use a pipe with a metal thickness of at least 4-5 mm and a diameter of at least 130 mm. A combustion chamber is cut out of the blank. A grate is made at the bottom for storing firewood, and a container is installed under it to collect ash.

The chamber is covered from above and a chimney is installed. All that remains is to secure the legs from the metal pipe. To increase the efficiency of heat transfer, small metal “wings” can be welded to the side of the stove. This will increase the area of ​​contact between the hot metal and the air.

For a potbelly stove, it is necessary to prepare a flat surface, which is covered with fire-resistant materials. Nearby wall surfaces must also be protected from possible fire. In addition, no foreign objects should be stored near the stove.

The surface of the oven can reach significant temperatures. We must not forget about the danger of getting burned during contact with it. You also need to be careful when working with an unnecessary gas cylinder. There have been cases of explosion of gas residues during operation of this tank. Professionals advise first filling the cylinder with water so that the liquid can displace the remaining gas.

When using a potbelly stove, you must remember the safety rules

Use of used oil

The design of this stove is a little more complicated than a potbelly stove, but the effectiveness of this unit is undeniable. Every car owner has used oil, and if that’s not enough, you can buy fuel at almost every service station. Unlike a potbelly stove, this stove is made of several sections that are connected by a perforated steel tube.

At the bottom, oil burns, producing little heat, turning into gas. Through the pipe, this gas passes into the upper firebox, simultaneously mixing with a small amount of oxygen. This mixture creates a huge amount of heat when burned.

The lower part, where the oil burns, can be made of sheet metal or a container of any configuration. In order for the fuel combustion process to proceed correctly, it is necessary to make a damper in the container to regulate the volume of oxygen entering the chamber.

At the bottom you need to attach legs made of thick reinforcement, the most important thing is that they are very strong, since the whole structure is very heavy. You need to make a hole at the top and install a perforated pipe into it. As a rule, this pipe is a support for the upper compartment, and it is also exposed to elevated temperatures from burning oil.

Therefore, a structure with fairly thick walls will be required so that it can withstand both temperature and total weight. Most often, the upper compartment is made in the form of a wide and short cylinder. It is necessary to install a smoke exhaust on top; in this case, installing a pipe on the side to remove combustion products is prohibited.

The requirements for this stove are approximately the same as for a potbelly stove: a flat surface, protection of the surrounding area from significant heating. Almost all waste oils can be burned in this heating equipment: diesel fuel, fuel oil, transmission mixtures, kerosene, diesel fuel.

But it is necessary to refrain from experiments with flammable liquids, which are characterized by easy combustion, that is, from burning gasoline or various types of solvents in this stove. A small amount of gasoline can be added to ignite the oil.

A long-burning stove will provide warmth for a long time

Long burning stove

The peculiarity of the stove’s operation makes it possible to obtain maximum heat when using firewood. The wood is loaded into the firebox, and a small amount of air is supplied to it. Under these conditions, the fuel does not burn instantly, but gradually smolders, turning into gas.

The gas burns directly in the upper part of the firebox at an elevated temperature, which is what determines the high efficiency of the stove. It is necessary to load firewood into the firebox no more than 2 times a day, so this equipment is more suitable for constant heating of a garage space.

The easiest way to make this heating device is from a metal barrel. A container of approximately 250 liters is optimal for this task. On top you need to make a lid with a smoke exhaust and a hole for the air that is required for the combustion process.

The chimney diameter must be at least 170 mm, and the air supply pipes must be 130 mm. An important element of this stove is the weight that presses down the smoldering fuel. To make it, you need a metal circle slightly narrower than the diameter of the barrel, as well as several pieces of channel material that act as a weighting agent.

You can make such a stove yourself from a gas cylinder or pipe.

A hole must also be made in this element for oxygen to enter, after which a pipe with a diameter of 130 mm is welded to the hole. The pipe must be slightly longer than the height of the furnace body. You need to make a hole on the side with a door for loading firewood, and install a grate and a tank for collecting ash at the bottom.

The wood in this stove burns almost completely, leaving a small amount of waste, so a large ash pan is not required. In order to start the stove, you need to lay firewood on top, press it down with a weight, and then cover it with a lid, threading a pipe through the hole to supply oxygen. Taking into account smoldering, the amount of firewood decreases, and the load begins to drop.

The options for various homemade garage stoves are quite varied, and the designs of these heating devices are not very difficult to manufacture. You will need experience working with metal products, a welding machine and available materials. A properly made stove with your own hands can work for a long time and efficiently.

How to make a stove with your own hands:

Unfortunately, heating is not provided for garages (although perhaps fortunately, given current tariffs), so you have to heat yourself. Well, any heating is a stove. In this case, it should be small, but effective - you need to quickly bring the room from a “minus” to a good “plus”. So when choosing a design, do not forget that the garage stove should light up quickly and easily. It would also be desirable that it could be heated with waste - it is very expensive to buy good firewood, and there is nowhere to store it. Well, there is one more requirement - the design must be simple, so that you can easily do it yourself.

What kind of stoves can be made for a garage

It is very unpleasant to be in a cold garage in winter. That's why heating is required. Garage stoves are usually small steel stoves such as potbelly stoves. They are made from thick-walled barrels, pipe sections or gas cylinders. Such garage stoves are simpler to make and require only minor modifications, since the body, and sometimes the bottom, is already there. Stoves are also made from sheet metal, but these are options for those who are close friends with. Brick stoves are not very common in garages - they are still larger in size and heat up less, which is not entirely suitable for this case.

The most common stoves are those that burn wood; everything that burns is stored in them. Such omnivorousness and fast heating are their main advantages. They also have many disadvantages, and one of them is gluttony, which is why recently they have begun to make more economical long-burning stoves. Typically the top combustion principle is used. They are good because one full load (a stove made from a 50-liter propane cylinder) can burn for up to 8 hours. All this time it is warm in the garage.

They walk apart. There is plenty of such fuel in garages, but you have to be careful with the waste - it contains heavy metals and excellent traction is required to prevent them from getting inside.

Potbelly stoves - proven and simple designs

Potbelly stoves were a hit of the 20s of the last century. At that time, these stoves competed with brick stoves and were installed everywhere, even in apartments. Later, with the advent of centralized heating, they lost their relevance, but are used in garages, dachas, and for heating utility or outbuildings.

Potbelly stoves from a cylinder, barrel or pipe

The most suitable material for making a potbelly stove for a garage is propane cylinders or a pipe with a thick wall. Barrels are also suitable, but you need to look for ones that are not very large in volume and have a thick wall. In any option, the minimum wall thickness is 2-3 mm, the optimal is 5 mm. Such a stove will serve for many years.

By design they are vertical and horizontal. It is more convenient to burn horizontally with firewood - longer logs will fit. It’s easier to make one extended upward, but the firebox is small in size, so you’ll have to cut the wood finely.

Vertical

First, how to make a vertical stove for a garage from a cylinder or pipe. Divide the selected segment into two unequal parts. Below is a smaller one for collecting ash, above is the main one for storing firewood. The following is the order of work:

Overall, that's it. All that remains is to assemble the chimney and you can test a new stove for the garage.

Horizontal

If the housing is located horizontally, the ash box is usually welded from below. It can be welded to the required dimensions from sheet steel or a piece of channel of a suitable size can be used. Holes are made in the part of the body that will be directed downwards. It’s better to cut something like grate bars.

Then in the upper part of the body we make a pipe for the chimney. To do this, you can weld a cut piece from a pipe of a suitable diameter. After the piece of pipe is installed and the seam is checked, the metal inside the ring is cut out.

The next step is installing the doors. You can cut a piece of metal onto the ash pan, attach hinges and a lock. There are no special problems here. The gaps around the edges do not interfere - combustion air will flow through them.

There will be no difficulties if you are making a door from metal - welding the hinges is not a problem. Only here, in order to be able to at least slightly regulate the combustion, the door needs to be made a little larger - so that the perimeter of the opening is closed.

It is problematic to install furnace casting. Suddenly someone wants to have a cast iron door instead of a steel one. Then you need to weld a frame from a steel corner, attach the casting to it with bolts, and weld this entire structure to the body.

From two barrels

Anyone who has used a potbelly stove knows that very hard radiation comes from its body. Often the walls become heated to a red glow. Then it is impossible to be near her. The problem is solved with an interesting design: two barrels of different diameters, inserted one into the other. The gaps between the walls are filled with pebbles, clay mixed with sand (calcined over a fire, then filled in only after it has cooled). The inner barrel acts as a firebox, and the outer one is just the body.

This stove will take longer to heat up. It will not immediately begin to give off heat, but it will be more comfortable in the garage and after the fuel burns out, it will warm the room for another couple of hours - releasing the heat accumulated in the bookmark.

Long-burning garage stove

From the same gas cylinder you can make a stove for a long-burning garage. There are different designs, but the most proven and stable working is called Bubafonya - after the nickname of the author who invented it and posted it on one of the forums. This was about 5-6 years ago. Since then, many people have had this miracle - a simple and original design, high efficiency and the fact that you can lay not only firewood, but also shavings and even sawdust. You can even modify Bubafonya for water heating in the garage, which has been done more than once (water jacket around the body).

Long-burning wood stove for garage (diagram and photo)

This homemade wood stove has only one drawback - in order to remove the ash, you will have to turn the body upside down. True, there are already improvements that eliminate this drawback. If you have a welding machine, you can make such a stove for your garage with your own hands in a few hours - it’s very easy to make.

Design

This stove uses the principle of top combustion: wood burns from above, the flame spreads down as the upper layers burn out. This explains the long period of time for combustion - the flame spreads downwards much more slowly. However, the heating is effective. Already in the first minutes, a sufficient amount of heat begins to be released.

This stove is traditionally round and vertical. The body is a regular cylinder with a bottom without a welded lid. The main focus is the shape and structure of the moving part. It is often called "cargo", but this is only one of the functions. This part also supplies air to the combustion zone. She represents a metal circle to which a pipe is welded in the middle. On the back side of the metal circle - from the center to the edges - corners or pieces of a small channel are welded. These are air ducts through which air flows to the periphery of the combustion area. There is also a lid with a hole cut out in the center through which the weight pipe is passed. The smoke pipe is welded almost at the very top of the housing. Its horizontal part should not be more than 40 cm, then the pipe rises upward. The height of the chimney is at least 2-3 meters, but it must be determined by the draft - so that in any weather the smoke does not go into the garage.

Principle of operation

Having filled the body with firewood mixed with shavings and sawdust, the firebox is lit. Place a lid on the pipe and, when the flame flares up, place the lid on top. Since the pipe is hollow, air is supplied through it into the combustion zone, which supports combustion.

The diameter of the “load” circle is slightly smaller than the diameter of the body - through this gap, combustion products enter the upper part (labeled “secondary combustion chamber” in the figure). As is known, they themselves are flammable and can generate a large amount of heat. In this zone, with a well-heated oven, these gases ignite. Combustion air comes from a gap in the cover in the pipe passage area. Something can “pull up” in a circle. It's not that important. It is important that the lid should not be made airtight and that because of this, the draft in the pipe must be excellent.

The gases ignited in the upper part produce no less heat than burning wood. This explains the heating efficiency when using this design. Burnt gases exit into the chimney. As it burns, the load drops lower and lower until the entire load is burned out. After the stove goes out and cools down, you can add a new batch of firewood and start the process all over again. You have to remove the ash after several fires - the firewood burns completely, leaving only a small pile of ash and a couple of coals from the lowest firewood.

This is the kind of “wood” that this garage stove is heated with.

Here is a brief summary of the operating principle of this unit. As you can see, there is not only top combustion, but also afterburning of gases. A very simple design that works really well.

Manufacturing process

Most likely you already understand how to do everything, but we will briefly describe the process. First, let's talk about the materials that are needed for this stove. The most commonly used are 50-liter propane cylinders. A barrel with thick walls and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 300 mm to 600 mm are also suitable. The height of the finished case is from 110 cm to 200 cm. In addition, you will need:

These are all the necessary materials. Now let’s talk about what and how to do. We will assume that we make a garage stove from a gas cylinder.

That's all. I made a stove for the garage with my own hands.

Improvements

Improvements to the design improve ease of use. The biggest inconvenience is the need to turn the heavy body over in order to shake out the ash. To get rid of this, an ash pan and traditional grates are made in the lower part. The solution is understandable, but this innovation can lead to the fact that the firewood will burn faster - air will leak through the door cracks. If there is a lot of oxygen in the lower part, the wood will burn quickly, and not in the smoldering mode, as happens in the original design. The solution is to make the door airtight, with sides and a seal.

Efficient and economical garage stove - drawing with dimensions

The second improvement concerns the number and shape of fins on the air duct disk. They are made not from angles or channels, but from steel strips. They are bent and slightly shifted, so that the air passing through seems to twist. 6-8 pieces are welded instead of the original 4. This alteration gives only advantages - the air is distributed more evenly over the combustion zone, the firewood burns evenly over the entire area.

Brick stoves provide gentler heat, but until they heat up themselves, they will not heat the garage. If you plan to heat every day, this option is good. If the garage will be heated periodically, it is better to make a metal stove - heating up a frozen brick stove is long and tedious, and it will start heating in about two hours.

For those who decide to install a brick stove in the garage, we will lay out the order of a small (relatively) stove with a heating shield and a hob (just in case).

The stove is made of solid ceramic bricks (not burnt). Excluding combat, 290 pieces are required. The masonry should be laid using clay mortar, the thickness of the seams is about 0.5-1.8 cm.

This furnace requires a separate foundation - the weight will be about 500 kg. Its dimensions are 15-20 cm larger than the dimensions of the stove.

It is desirable to lining the firebox (laying fireclay bricks on fireclay mortar). Bricks are ground down for furnace casting. The dimensions of the bed for the grate, stove and doors must be larger than the dimensions of the casting. The gap is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion and also for laying a thermal insulation layer around the doors. This will reduce the formation of cracks near them (due to different thermal expansion).

Asbestos cord was traditionally used as a thermal insulation material. If you don't want to deal with asbestos, you can cut mineral wool cardboard into strips. Only it must withstand very high temperatures - up to 1200°C (minimum 850°C).

Installed in the 6th row, the valve allows you to switch the stove into winter and summer modes. This is convenient in the off-season, when full power is not required, but it is already damp.

The height of the oven can be increased by repeating rows 14 and 15.

Watch the video for the process of pre-laying a stove without mortar (recommended in order to select bricks and understand what’s what).

Drawings and diagrams

It would take a long time to describe all the designs. Much can be understood from the drawings.

For some men, the garage is their second home - they spend a lot of time here, tinkering with the car and doing other tasks. But for others, it’s a way to make money by repairing cars. In any case, the workplace should be comfortable and warm. The worst situation is with heating - here you need some simple and effective stove for the garage, the operation of which will not lead to large expenses.

In this review we will look at:

• Disadvantages of using electric heating;
• Available fuel types;
• Schemes of homemade stoves for the garage.

Armed with tools and a welding machine, you can make a great oven for your garage.

Electric heating

Most often, there is no heating in the garage - it is not needed here, since the car can easily withstand any cold. But if people are constantly staying and working in the garage, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for their long-term presence. The easiest way to solve the heating problem is with electric heaters. Here are their main advantages:

It is quite possible to use an electric heat gun as a heater for a garage.

• Quick start - just plug the heater into an outlet, and after a while the garage will become warm;
• Large selection of models - from heat guns to convectors;
• No need to fuss with fuel - a simple outlet is enough.

There are also certain disadvantages:

• High electricity consumption is one thing when you need heat once a week, and quite another when you need it every day for several hours;
• Lack of efficiency - as a rule, garages are not insulated, so costs will be high;
• Low efficiency - electric heaters are good for residential premises, but in a windswept garage, the effect may not be expected.

The most efficient electric heater for a garage is a powerful fan heater that will provide almost instantaneous heat supply and will delight you with its reliability. You can also install infrared heaters here, which heat the surrounding objects rather than the air. But the operation of all these devices will inevitably lead to increased energy costs. The way out of the situation will be homemade stoves.

Garage stoves and their varieties

Before we tell you how to make a stove for a city with your own hands, let’s try to look at the main types of stoves and the types of fuel available to us. To heat garages we can use:

• Diesel fuel;
• The most common firewood;
• Coal;
• Petrol;
• Workout.

A store-bought diesel stove operates without a chimney and takes up little space.

A purchased diesel heater for a garage is an excellent and aesthetic solution. It will allow you to completely warm up the garage using simple diesel fuel. Such a stove ignites quickly and reaches operating mode and does not require a chimney. But you need to remember that you will forever be haunted by the smell of diesel fuel, which is simply impossible to get rid of. In addition, you will need to buy diesel fuel somewhere, spending large sums on heating.

There is practically no high-quality diesel fuel that will produce a minimum of unpleasant odor on sale.

With the help of a gasoline stove for the garage, the design of which we will describe in our review, you can quickly warm up your work space. The main thing is to get cheap gasoline from somewhere. A garage stove made from a barrel, powered by gasoline, will delight you with its ease of manufacture. And such a unit can be used to heat any other premises, for example, country houses.

The main feature of our stove will be the absence of a strong unpleasant odor during its operation.

If you have a solid fuel stove, you will have to find a place to store firewood.

Solid fuel stoves using wood and coal are pleasing with their simplicity and affordability. Their fuel is cheap and in some cases free. A wood-burning stove for a garage has a simple design, does not emit an unpleasant smell of petroleum products, and can operate on various types of solid fuel. Only the garage owner will have to constantly remove the ash from it, but it can be used as fertilizer in your garden plot or vegetable garden.

An oil stove (also known as a working stove) will delight you with the simplicity of its manufacture. A self-made device installed in a garage will provide people with warmth. And if your activity involves frequent oil changes, then you will have an inexhaustible and free source of fuel at your disposal. Let's see how to make a stove for a garage and what you need for it.

Gasoline stove made from a barrel or pipe

When considering the most popular garage heaters, you cannot ignore one simple but very effective stove. It is not gas or wood-burning - it is gasoline-powered. Its dimensions vary depending on the size of the workpiece for the body. You can place it anywhere in the garage, for example, against a side wall or in a corner. For this we need:

There is nothing complicated in the design of a gasoline stove.

• A metal barrel or a piece of pipe with a diameter of 300-400 mm;
• Thick metal wire;
• Blowtorch;
• Large river stones;
• Curved chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Our task is to prepare the combustion chamber. To do this, we make a small hole in the lower part of the barrel (in the side wall, at the very bottom), into which we will insert a blowtorch burner. If you are using a pipe rather than a barrel, weld the bottom to it, then make a hole for the lamp - it would be nice if this hole could be closed with something.

At the next stage, we take a powerful metal wire, bend it so that it forms an elastic stand for stones - the wire is sent to the bottom of our garage stove. We lay rounded stones on it (there are plenty of them in mountain rivers), all the way to the top (the wire must support their weight). Next, we attach a chimney to our stove.

Before you start filling your garage stove with wood, make sure to place it on bricks or any other non-combustible base.

Now you can begin a test run of our garage stove. We pour gasoline into the blowtorch, wait for it to reach operating mode, carefully insert the lamp into the hole prepared in advance for it, and wait until the stones warm up. After burning for only 1 hour, the stove will give off heat for another 3-4 hours. If you can make a chimney with a damper, the heat will be retained even longer.

During the burning stage of the blowtorch, it is necessary to ensure ventilation of the garage, since the stove takes air directly from the room (like any other stove from our review).

Making a potbelly stove

Let's see how to make a potbelly stove for the garage. Potbelly stoves are distinguished by their extremely simple design. Here are their advantages:

• Omnivorous – these stoves can operate on any type of fuel, both wood and coal;
• A potbelly stove can be used for cooking - kettles, pots, pans and other utensils are placed on its upper surface;
• A DIY potbelly stove for a garage will delight you with its ease of manufacture - the stove requires sheet metal and a pipe for the chimney;
• A homemade potbelly stove does not require any tricky ignition - just put wood in it and set it on fire. Then you can put coal in it.

A potbelly stove for the garage with your own hands is an excellent solution when you have the opportunity to buy firewood. And by collecting them in the nearest forest, you will receive a source of free heat. Also, any wood waste, European firewood and even pellets are used to fire the stove.

The drawings of a potbelly stove are extremely simple - you can even describe its structure “with your fingers.” It is a metal box with two doors on the front panel. Firewood is loaded through the top door, the largest one. And combustion products are removed through the bottom. At the same time, the lower door plays the role of a blower. If it gets hot in the garage, cover the stove vent and after a while the temperature will drop.

When making a potbelly stove with your own hands, pay attention to the published drawing. You need to weld a metal box 450 mm high and long, 250 mm wide. In the inner part, at a height of 80 mm, we weld a grate (we can fit a sheet of thick metal with cut holes under it). We also weld smoke circuits inside to improve draft. In the upper rear part we weld a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm under the chimney.

The wood-burning garage stove, also known as a potbelly stove, is ready - you can start testing. To do this, you should stock up on firewood. Installation of the stove in the garage is carried out in any convenient corner. We cover the corner walls with galvanized steel so that the heat does not escape into the walls, but is reflected into the garage. Next, we proceed to laying firewood and igniting it - in much the same way as we light a barbecue. Using the ash pan door you can adjust the draft.

When assembling the stove with your own hands, pay attention to the thickness of the metal - it should be at least 5 mm, otherwise the stove will easily burn out and lose efficiency.

Brick stove

To create a brick oven you need to have certain skills.

The good thing about a potbelly stove for a garage is that this stove is extremely simple. A few pieces of metal, a little fiddling with the welding machine and doors, a piece of metal pipe - and the heating unit is ready. The potbelly stove is not the most economical, but it is easy to use - you just need to add firewood in time. A brick oven for a garage is built in a similar way, but it has several disadvantages:

• A good stove requires refractory bricks;
• The stove for the garage turns out to be too bulky.

However, you can always build it in the likeness of a potbelly stove, only instead of metal walls, ordinary brick is used here.

A metal stove can always be turned over, cleaned, or moved to another location. You can’t easily clean a brick stove in a garage, and you can’t move it to the next corner - this is a model for stationary use.

Long burning wood stove

Let's see how to make a stove for a garage from a pipe or a barrel - it will be a stove with the unusual name Bubafonya. By making such units using long-burning wood with your own hands, you don’t have to worry too much about exact dimensions. This stove is as simple as three pennies, but has an important advantage - one stack of firewood is enough for the whole day. And it is ideally suited for heating non-residential premises.

When making a wood-burning stove with your own hands, you need to take care of selecting suitable materials. We will try to make a stove from two barrels. We will need the entire first barrel, and only one lid from the second. Here are step-by-step instructions for making a stove for heating a garage:

Drawing of a homemade long-burning wood-burning stove.

• We take a barrel and cut off the top (leave 2-3 cm sides at the cut top part) - this will be our combustion chamber into which firewood is loaded;
• We bend the sides of the barrel inward, and on the lid we do the opposite operation - as a result, the lid should completely cover the barrel;
• We make a press and an air duct - for this we need a lid from the second barrel, we make a hole in it and weld a long pipe, which should be higher than the barrel. We weld the channel pieces on the reverse side. We trim the edges of the lid so that it fits freely into the barrel (the gap between the lid and the walls is about 10 mm). As a result, we should get a kind of piston. Air is taken in through a welded pipe;
• We continue to make a stove for heating the garage - we take the lid for our combustion chamber, cut a hole in it for the air duct pipe;
• We make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm in the upper side of the barrel and weld a piece of pipe - this will be the outlet for the chimney.

Now our long-burning stove for the garage needs to be put together, and at the same time tested. We install the stove on a non-combustible base, load it with firewood (we recommend throwing all sorts of small things on the very top), connect the chimney. Next, soak a piece of rag in kerosene, throw it on the wood, and wait for a steady combustion. After that, we put our piston inside, put on the lid and wait until our stove flares up to its fullest.

To make a wood-burning stove for a garage, you can also choose a piece of suitable pipe - you can buy it at a metal warehouse. The amount of loaded fuel is determined experimentally. Please note that the wood in this stove burns from top to bottom, rather than in the more conventional direction.

Garage stove being worked on

Let's see how to weld a stove for the garage that will work during waste - it will be useful for those who repair cars and often change oil (in one warm season you can collect waste for the whole winter). Our stove will consist of three parts:

You can get detailed information about the sizes of individual elements from the drawing.

• Fuel container – its diameter is 352 mm. We weld the legs to it and make a hole in the middle with a diameter of 100 mm. Nearby we make another 100 mm hole, with a lid - here we will pour fuel for heating our garage;
• Combustion chamber - it is a vertical metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, in which 48 holes are drilled in 6 rows;
• Fuel afterburning chamber - all unburned gaseous residues are burned here. Its diameter is 352 mm, it has a hole for the combustion chamber and a hole for the chimney (the same 100 mm). A partition is welded inside the chamber.

After the garage stove is assembled, you can begin testing. We pour the waste inside, pour a little kerosene on top (in no case any other liquid, only kerosene!), set it on fire, and wait until the stove warms up. As soon as a stably burning, literally humming flame appears in the combustion chamber, the experiment can be considered a success. Please note that the recommended chimney height for this stove is 4-5 meters.

When making a stove for a garage with your own hands and selecting a suitable drawing, you should pay attention to the choice of fuel and build from there. If you have a lot of work to do, the choice is obvious - choose the latest stove from our review. If you have a large amount of firewood (including free firewood), you can pay attention to alternative projects. And remember that the dimensions of the furnaces in the drawings can vary within wide limits.

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