Do-it-yourself pigtail in a wooden house, video, casing drawings. Door and window openings in a wooden house How to make a window opening in a wooden house

One of the most critical operations during construction wooden house– marking and cutting out the window opening. Mistakes at this stage will lead to many problems with insulation or to the need to strengthen the opening after it has been created. This review contains information on how to cut a window in wooden house and prevent gross errors in marking and during installation operations.

Separately, we note that a window in a log house is, in terms of its functional purpose, a more important component than similar element in a stone house, as it further strengthens the connection between the logs. Therefore, the thoroughness of each stage of its production must be extremely high.

A log house, despite its external solidity, is a rather unstable structure. The reason for this is the round shape of the logs and the change in their geometric dimensions during shrinkage and shrinkage.

Under the influence of the weight of the roof and attic in log house Walls often become distorted in the vertical plane. If the crowns were laid without additional fixation, the lower logs can be squeezed out either inside the room or outside. In practice, such displacements from the vertical axis can reach up to 3-5 cm, while the entire wall is under significant stress.

If you cut openings for windows and doors in such a wall, it will simply collapse. Therefore, the entire structure of the window openings is not only a place for installing double-glazed windows, but also a power unit that gives the frame additional rigidity.

Note that this feature is inherent in all wooden buildings, including houses made of profiled timber.

Features of installing windows in wooden houses

Taking into account the factors listed in the previous section, an additional strength structure is almost always installed between the window and the frame - a casing frame assembled in such a way as to counteract both vertical compressive forces and longitudinal ones.

There are three main types of casing frames:

• spiked socket (T-shaped);
• casing into a deck (U-shaped);
• pigtail in the embedded block.

• the upper and lower edges of the opening should pass through the center of the log (or cover 1/3). This is necessary for the normal operation of the casing and to prevent problems with insulation;
• It is advisable to mark horizontal lines using precise level gauges;
• Make vertical markings only along a plumb line.

If you plan to do the work yourself, you should take care in advance to prepare the appropriate equipment.

The main tool used when arranging window and door openings is a chain saw (or its electric version).

If there are many windows, and you plan to chamfer for installation of platbands, we recommend making a special device based on an angle grinder, with the help of which the time spent on this operation will be reduced significantly.

First working stage: cutting out the opening

After the marking is completed, cutting out the opening begins. During this seemingly simple operation, the following rules must be observed:

• the cutting plane must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the logs;
• The cutting line should run in such a way that there are no distortions and spontaneous falling out of the logs.

After cutting the opening, it is necessary to check the condition of the end of the frame to ensure that the vertical axis is maintained. If deviations are noticed, then the next stage of work is leveling the wall.

This is done with the help of special devices that pull the logs into one line.

This screed is temporary and is dismantled after installation of the casing.

Please note that in cases where an increase in wall distortions is detected, it is advisable to install a U-shaped version of the frame.

Step two: creating a tenon or groove

When marking cutting lines, it should be taken into account that each line must be on the same plane with a similar line at the opposite end of the opening.

If the work is done with a chain saw, first cut from the end of the logs and only then remove the rest of the material.

After the tenons (or grooves) are formed, the ends of the opening are treated with an antiseptic compound.

Note that from a technological point of view, a groove cut deep into a log is more complex than an external tenon. In industrial conditions, such an operation is performed using a milling cutter; in field conditions, using a chain saw.

Step three: installation of the pigtail

The preparation of the opening is completed by installing the casing frame. It is not recommended to leave a freshly cut opening without a fixing structure, as this can lead to distortions.

One of the features of wood buildings is their susceptibility to shrinkage, periodic (seasonal) changes in the geometry of the building under the influence of external factors (temperature, humidity). Visually this is not noticeable, but installing door and window blocks in openings with rigid fixation leads to their deformation; or the walls remain in one position (as they say, “hanging”), that is, when the material shrinks, they do not settle, which causes the building to skew.

Casing in a wooden house eliminates such problems; it is not connected to the main structure, but is held in it only by friction. It is often called differently - okosyachka. It is a box installed in openings. Its purpose is to prevent the destruction of window frames, door jambs, and incorrect operation of the sashes.

general information

• To make the casing, wood is taken with a moisture content of at least 12% - too dry material will crack under mechanical loads.
• The width of the jamb should correspond to the thickness of the walls, but there is a recommended limit for this parameter - no more than 25 (±1) cm. The reason is the same - the risk of splitting the wood.
• When installing the casing, traditional fastening and fixing elements in the form of staples, nails, screws, spacer wedges are not used (only in individual cases, during assembly). It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for sealing gaps. It has a gluing property, therefore, the mobility of lumber (logs, beams) of walls and casing relative to each other is excluded. This means that the meaning of installing a support box in the opening is lost.
• Before installing the casing, it is necessary to take measurements of the opening. If the window (door) block has already been manufactured or selected in a furniture showroom, then the reference point is its dimensions. The thickness of the frame board is added to them, and this, with a small gap for the insulation, corresponds to the required parameters of the opening. As a rule, its slight expansion in a wooden house does not cause difficulties. If it is necessary to slightly narrow the opening, it is enough to increase the thickness of the casing board.
• A gap of about 5 mm is left between the upper element of the frame and the ordinary log (timber). It is called shrinkage, and it serves to lay insulation and prevent structural destruction due to wood deformation.

Pipe design

Regardless of the manufacturing method, the main parts of the frame are.

1. Vershnik. Its purpose is to hold the upper ends of the sidewalls in a static position. Essentially, this is a horizontal casing strut. At the same time, it provides a shrinkage gap into which the sealing material is placed.
2. Threshold. The lower part of the pigtail. In window openings this is the window sill. It solves a problem similar to that for the vertex, but it is this element that accounts for maximum load, and therefore great importance is attached to its strength.
3. Sidewalls (carriages). Vertical casing elements installed on the sides of the opening. The function is to ensure the “sliding” of the walls of the house (up/down) when the wood shrinks.

Types of casing

From the array

The pigtail, made from solid wood, is characterized by increased strength and retains the texture of the material. Depending on the specifics of installation, there are two modifications: “in the block” has a groove in the shape of the letter “P”, “in the tenon” - with a section in the shape of “T”. Despite the advantages of these types of casing, their significant disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. In order for a window frame in a wooden house to effectively perform its function, all recesses and ridges must be accurately adjusted to size. In addition, to select material and turn protrusions, you will need a special tool (for example, a milling cutter, a circular saw, chain Saw); It is quite difficult to achieve the desired result using ordinary household products.

Note. There is another type of casing “in a tenon” - with a slope. The difference is that the pigtail is not made up of separate elements, but is whole. That is, it is a ready-made box with protrusions; it is mounted in the opening in assembled form. Typically for installing doors. But its manufacture can only be done by a professional, since high precision fitting is required.

"Embedded block"

The most practical option, simple and convenient for self-assembly. The peculiarity of installing a pigtail of this type is that you can use scraps of lumber. You just need to select bars of an acceptable cross-section, polish them and cut out the corresponding grooves in the wall opening (on the sides and bottom). These frame components are placed inside the recesses and serve as support for the finishing board.

The pictures show typical drawings that give a general understanding design features pigtails. Its exact dimensions are determined based on the parameters of a particular opening.

Recommendation. The casing for the window block is done with or without sampling. The first option is for wooden houses, if no additional finishing is expected. The second is suitable for old buildings, the appearance of which requires updating (outside, inside).

Manufacturing of casing

For windows

With wooden frame:

• Preparing grooves on the sides of the opening.
• Laying material in its lower part interventional insulation, on top - a block. Its task is to prevent displacement of the sidewalls.
• The grooves on the left and right sides of the opening are filled in the same way.
• Installation of the upper casing element.

For PVC windows

Experts do not recommend installing such blocks in wooden houses, but if the decision is made, then you need to know some of the nuances of installing the casing.

• Preparing the opening involves changing its geometry. The gaps between its sides and the block are at least 130 mm. A more accurate value is determined by the following indicators: the moisture content of the wood of the house and its service life (which means the degree of probable shrinkage), the thickness of the crown joints.
• Making a threshold. Cuts are made in it to obtain a comb. It is needed as the base of the carriage in which the groove is installed. This element ensures uniform shrinkage of the house without destroying the structure.
• Making a carriage. A beam of 150 x 100, with a length less than the height of the opening by 50 mm, is sufficient. A groove is cut into it and the surface is ground to ensure “sliding”.
• For the top, take a “magpie” board with a width of 120 - 150 (according to the thickness of the walls of a wooden house). It also contains grooves for connecting to the ridge of the opening.
• Installing the sidewalls is the same as for a wooden window.
• After checking the geometry, all casing elements are fastened with self-tapping screws. It must be taken into account that they should not go into the wood of the wall. Otherwise, it will form a “rigid” coupling with the supporting frame, and the pigtail will not fulfill its function.
• Insulation of the opening.
• Treatment of wood with special preparations.

For doors

*The simplest option

• Preparing the opening. If it is not pre-arranged in the wall, it is marked and a rectangular segment is cut out. On at this stage grooves are prepared for connection to the door frame.
• Processing the jamb. This technology implies that he is a window frame for doorways. Accordingly, wood is sampled for the grooves.
• Placing the box in the opening.
• Installation of horizontal struts (lower and upper).
• Sealing the casing with soft insulation. Alternatively, flax fiber. The work is carried out in such a way as to prevent the frame from being fixed in the opening; she must remain free.
• Removing the spacers.
• Treatment of wood with a fire-retardant preparation.
• Fastening platbands.

Other door lining technologies are difficult to implement. Considering the importance of this element for the home, it is better to entrust the work to a professional.

Before you start making a pigtail, you need to consider a number of factors:

• What kind of door will be installed in the opening. For wooden houses there is a choice - metal structures (entrance), plastic, paneled, even glass panels. In accordance with this, making a pigtail has its own characteristics.
• For interior doors the threshold is not always made, but at the entrance to the house it is required element.
• Steel blocks are mounted in the same way as PVC windows - with a “sliding” casing carriage.
• Considering the specifics of arranging openings in wooden houses, it is more advisable to order plastic windows after preparatory work, according to final dimensions.
• Installation of casing in a new building is always carried out before caulking the log house.

In principle, it is not difficult to independently arrange a simple window frame in a wooden house. But its type is selected depending on the characteristics of the window, doorway and the block installed in it. If you are not sure of the quality result, it is better to order casing ( approximate price 1 p.m. from 1,350 to 2,600 rubles including the cost of the material) or invite a specialist.

Installing windows yourself will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything correctly, otherwise the savings will be questionable. Wooden houses have their own characteristics that you should be aware of.

Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly

It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

• • lack of casing - a house made of timber “walks” during shrinkage and begins to put pressure on the window frames;

• • using polyurethane foam in the shrinkage gap between the top of the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper beams to the window frame, negating the functions of the casing;

• • incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - without taking into account the installation gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

• • there is too much gap between the frame and the wall - if you simply foam such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
  • lack of external protection of the installation gap - when foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, it is better to close the gap from the outside with PSUL tape, which provides protection for the foam from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

• • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in insulating properties;

• • placing a window in a “cold zone” causes freezing of slopes and the formation of condensation on the inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order window installation. For an experienced builder, DIY installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers don't talk about

Tightness and high sound insulation plastic double glazed windows presented as a definite advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to unsealed wooden frames, a constant influx of moisture is ensured. fresh air. Of course, too large gaps can make the house very cold, so Euro-windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to do forced ventilation. But in the absence of ventilation holes, this can be problematic - a lot will have to be redone.

It is for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and screw the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners of wooden houses is that companies that install plastic windows often do not provide a guarantee for their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So, even if all installation rules are followed, you may find that after a few years the windows no longer open. But you won’t be able to sharpen plastic with a file.

Manufacturing of casing (plugs)

The first thing the installation of windows begins with is the installation of the casing. But is it always necessary and how to do it correctly?

When can you do without a joint?

A new wooden house made of logs or beams will shrink in any case. And no one has canceled seasonal soil heaving. In this case, the casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - a 50 mm thick edged board and a 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm edged beam. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in frame house There is no need to make a frame - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. Some builders also do not install a casing in a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind, it’s better to do it in your home; this process is not that complicated.

How to make casing correctly

The last option is the most labor-intensive, but also the most reliable. If you have any doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to casing it into an embedded block. For this:

• • In the window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical furrows measuring 5x5 cm are selected. This can be done either with a chainsaw or with a hand circular saw, chisel and axe. The second option is preferable if your hand is not equipped for precise chainsaw work.

• • An edged board is laid on top of the embedding block and secured flush with self-tapping screws - two at the top and bottom. To do this, pre-drill a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw head.
  • If the “tenon-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the pre-cut T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed with self-tapping screws.
  • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the 5 cm thick top laid on them is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrinkage gap.
  • The top should fit into the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in a horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle.
  • The insulation is placed in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. Under no circumstances should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-proof films - accumulated condensation will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how casing is done “into the deck”:

When the frame is ready, you can proceed directly to installing double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows itself is not very complicated, but requires strict adherence to technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered glass unit

Under no circumstances should this moment be neglected! First, the dimensions of the window opening and glass unit are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap at the top will be 1 cm. The clover must be included in the kit, and under You need to leave room for it when designing the window. It is needed so that a window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, you must also check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” because windows are shipped without them. But dowels are special fasteners that you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that when fully screwed in, they only reach the middle of the casing board. And this is taking into account the gap. If the dowel is screwed into the wall of a wooden house, the window will begin to deform regardless of the presence of the frame.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative trims, fittings and drainage holes. They will also have to be counted. But the window sill and sill need to be ordered - if you forget to specify their necessity, you may find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass themselves - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because thanks to them different sizes You can align the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the required thickness under the corners and posts.

Disassembly and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished glass unit is delivered in assembled form. But to install it, you will have to disassemble everything down to the frame. For this:

• • when closed, use a special key to remove the upper pins holding the swinging sash;
  • the window handle is inserted, the sash is opened and removed from the lower fastenings;
  • the glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and the double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and an ordinary knife;
  • you need to remember or mark the right and left glazing beads;
  • the protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun it will not come off in a few months;
  • external elements are installed - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
  • holes are drilled for the dowels - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

Once the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to installation.

Installation of frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, with temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it’s much easier to do everything with an assistant - he simply holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Installing the frame also requires following the correct sequence:

1. 1. The lower edge is aligned with the level - a laser level is more convenient in this regard. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack to achieve a perfectly level position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
   2. Side spacers are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If width window frame is too small and literally “falls out” of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. 1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Don’t forget that it needs to be installed in a “warm” zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, this is clearly in the middle.
   2. Once the frame is level, you can begin attaching it, starting with the side posts. First, holes are drilled in the wood through those already made in the frame, and then dowels are attached. First the top and bottom, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
   3. Once the frame is fixed, the flashing is attached to the outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and the gap under it is filled with polyurethane foam.

1. 1. Decorative overlays are placed on the sash fastening elements. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. 1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. 1. The installation seam is foamed around the perimeter.
   2. A window sill is being installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill beam, and wedges are placed under it to level it. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are coated with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. The window sill is placed again, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first they install the window sill, check it for level and screw it to the casing with dowels. And only then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, there is no need to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the window sill material must withstand the action external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

Once the polyurethane foam has hardened, you can begin finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The simplest option, which even girls can handle, is to cover them with plastic panels. For this you will need:

• L-shaped or starting profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
• decorative plastic corner - it covers the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
• the plastic lining itself for the slopes.

And you don’t even need to foam anything. But in order to ensure the necessary protection of the installation seam and good insulation, insulation should be laid between the wall and the slope and covered with a vapor barrier. On the outside, the seam is covered with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to delight you with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being pulled away by birds. You don’t need to restrain your soul’s impulses if you want to start doing something. with my own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

Greetings, dear readers!

I decided to replace the old windows in a wooden house myself. This is not at all easy, so before that I looked at a bunch of sites and forums, talked with friends who were doing the installation. And I outlined for myself the basic rules for installation.

First you need to take measurements of the windows in order to know the exact dimensions and order the window correctly.

Next, you need to dismantle the old windows. Then he prepares the installation site for the window; to do this, you need to remove the dust and debris that accumulated during dismantling. Next, we install the window sill and prepare the plastic window for installation. Then we install the window itself.

At first it seems very simple, but there are small nuances, taking into account which you can easily do it. I want to tell you more about the installation later in this article.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands in a wooden house. Installation technology. Instructions, photos

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a prepared frame of a wooden house, like other construction and installation work, is carried out using a building level and a plumb line.

It is very important that the plastic windows in the house are strictly level, otherwise an open window sash, for example, will close itself or, conversely, open under its own weight. Thus, the technology for installing plastic windows in the frame of a wooden house includes setting it level and plumb before fixing the window.

Here are our instructions, developed by our own experience, for installing plastic windows in a log house.

First, I would like to note one point that you will need to remember when purchasing plastic windows: When you buy windows, it would be good to immediately buy mounting fasteners for them, ideally 6 pieces per window.

These are iron plates (see photo) which, with the help of little effort, are fixed in special technical slides on the sides of the window frame. Thus, the frame is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws through these mounting fasteners.

During installation, many installers of plastic windows fasten the window by drilling through the frame, but this is a violation of technology, and the tightness of special air chambers in the profile of the plastic window is thus broken, so this is not our method.

Plastic windows in a wooden house are generally a very capricious thing, but if the correct installation technology is followed, then such windows in your house will last a long time, without upsetting their owners with all sorts of distortions and other problems.

To ensure that installing windows yourself does not turn into torture, we advise you to remove the window sashes from the window frame. To remove them, you need to pull the pins out of the loops. Without window sashes, the frame weighs little, and it will be much more convenient to tilt it, which will greatly facilitate the installation of windows.

The instructions for installing plastic windows in a prepared frame of a wooden house are as follows:

Align the window. We place the window on the lower part of the opening on wood chips about 2 cm thick and adjust it horizontally. To set the horizontal level the best tool in our opinion is the water level.

You can’t fool the water; it always levels out with the horizon.

Thus, having installed the window exactly at the horizon level, placing chips of the required thickness under the frame for this purpose, leaving about a two-centimeter gap at the bottom for foaming with polyurethane foam, we proceed to setting the vertical level so that the window sashes do not live their own lives.

I don’t think it’s worth explaining in detail how the vertical level is set when installing a plastic, or any other window, everything is clearly visible in the photograph.

After we have placed the window level, we attach it to the frame with self-tapping screws through the above-mentioned mounting fasteners.

There is one technological point here - do not hit the ridge of the log on which the pigtail sits with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to screw in the self-tapping screw slightly obliquely than to deprive the frame structure of its independence from the frame in terms of the free movement of the carriages along the ridges of the logs.

The next step in our instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house will be attaching the window sashes. It is necessary to hang the sashes on the window before foaming, but if you foam the frame without sashes, the mounting foam may slightly bend the frame, and the sashes will not close/open well.

Thus, if the technology is followed correctly and the installation of the frame and the plastic window is carried out smoothly, your window should be positioned in such a way that there will be approximately 2 cm of space for the mounting foam on all sides from the frame to the frame.

And above the upper part of the frame there will be a gap of 5-10 cm to the log for shrinkage of the log house, so that when it is completely dry, the upper logs do not put pressure on the windows.

Foaming the window. Control check - On a window that is already fixed, but not yet foamed, with the sashes inserted, open the window and look.

If the half-open sash of a plastic window does not try to open further or, on the contrary, close, then our window is installed correctly and you can foam the frame with polyurethane foam.

This is our DIY technology for installing plastic windows. We hope you find it useful in building your wooden house! Happy construction!

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How to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands

In our wooden house, we decided to replace the old wooden windows to modern plastic ones. This article discusses in detail the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands in a wooden house. The article is based on personal experience. Why is it profitable to install windows yourself:

When installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house by a supplier or manufacturer, the cost of the window along with installation will cost 40-50% more than its original cost.

As a rule, about 95% of companies that install windows do not guarantee the quality of installation in a wooden house. Therefore, when self-installation In a wooden house with plastic windows, you do not lose the warranty period, but only save for your own benefit.

Window installation is shown using the example of self-installation of a double-glazed window, without the help of others, which takes an average of two and a half hours (for one window). The following describes step by step the process of inserting a plastic window into the window opening of a wooden house.

Removing old windows

Self-installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house is carried out on a solid foundation (frame). Since in our example, the window boxes were installed quite recently (about 5 years ago) and were without damage (cracks, chips, rotten formations and wormholes), we decided to use them instead of a frame for installing new windows.

Old window frames that are in good condition and strong enough can be reused, for example, to install a greenhouse.

Therefore, in order not to damage the wood of the frame, they must be dismantled carefully; it also does not hurt to remove the glass from them before doing this. In our case, we did not remove the glass from the frame, since the durable frames did not warp when removing them and were dismantled quite easily.

Preparing a site for installing double-glazed windows

With a dry and clean rag (or soft brush) you need to wipe the window frame and remove the waste and debris that has accumulated after dismantling.

The PVC window sill is installed first, since it is the base of the double-glazed window when it is installed. In this regard, the window sill should be installed as level as possible (ideally horizontal). We check the exact horizontal installation of the window sill with a level, both longitudinally and transversely.

To ensure that the window sill stands firmly, we make cuts up to 8 mm deep on the sides of the window frame. To adjust the evenness of the window sill, we use special plates made of plastic or fiberboard, or thin wooden planks treated in advance with an antiseptic. After the final installation of the window sill, we measure the evenness of the window sill with a building level.

We fasten the window sill with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the window frame, while making a 2 cm indent from the outer end of the window sill. When tightening the screws, we place washers under their heads in order to protect the surface of the window sill from damage, which is possible if it is broken through by the self-tapping head (at PVC window sills have cavities). After the window is completely installed, the places where the window sill is attached will not be visible, since they will be hidden from view.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

At the very beginning, even before installing the window, you need to install the handle. There is no need to remove all the protective film from the window surface yet, as it protects the window from possible mechanical damage.

Note!

The protective film is removed only in the place where the handles need to be installed. The handle handles must be in a horizontal position when installed.

This position means that the window opens on its side, and if the handle is turned down, the window will be locked in the closed state, but if the handle handle is turned up, the window will open in the crank mode.

We fix the handle to the window with two bolts and move the handle handle down. On the side posts of the window (at the ends) we make markings for making holes on which the window will be fixed to the block.

Next, using an electric drill, we drill two through holes (lower and upper) along this marking in the right pillar of the double-glazed window and in the lower pillar (4 holes in total). Distance between bottom and top parts The glass unit to the hole should be from 25 to 35 cm. The diameter of the drill for this work should be 6 mm, while the diameter of the screw is 5 mm.

To ensure that the head of the screw rests firmly on the window frame, we drill holes on the inside of the side posts for fastening with a drill with a large diameter of 10 mm, right up to the metal frame itself. The hole should be such that the head of the screw fits freely into the cavity of the window post.

Window installation

We install the assembled window into the window opening. We control the center using measurements taken with a tape measure starting from the edge of the window and ending with the surface of the window frame on both sides; the distance should be the same (about 1 cm).

We install the window on the surface of the previously installed window sill. Since we have already checked the window sill for levelness using a building level, there is no need to check the window itself for horizontalness.

To install a window parallel to the wall of the house, we install a building level between the wall and the siding for support. If the house was sheathed differently finishing material for example, clapboard that fits tightly to the wall and does not allow you to place a level, then you need to use a plumb line for control.

We install a spacer bar 1 cm wide between the window frame and the window. It is necessary that this block fits tightly enough between the window frame and the window. This block is needed as a stop at the moment when the window is attached to the window opening using self-tapping screws.

If this is not done, then the window may move to the side when it is fastened (it will simply be pulled away) and at the same time the mechanism for opening and closing the window will not function well, or the window sash will not open at all.

When the installation of the stop bars is completed and the window is aligned with a level or slope parallel to the wall of the house, then we fix the double-glazed window with self-tapping screws. We fix the window to the window frame from the bottom and top of its side posts, so that the self-tapping screw is in the free space between the frame and the window.

Such fastening is not only reliable, but also provides a floating effect. If there are seasonal shifts in the structure of the house, warping the window openings, then windows that are not rigidly attached to the frame are almost not subject to warping, due to the fact that the self-tapping screw can arbitrarily move in the direction of the skew of the window frame.

Installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house

First, install adjusting plates between the drain holes. This is necessary so that the glass unit does not cover the openings through which condensation is drained from the window.

Carefully install the double-glazed window into the window opening. We make sure that it does not fit tightly between the window posts, since if seasonal changes occur and, accordingly, distortions of the window frame, the glass may burst.

Note!

If your glass unit fits tightly, and there is no gap between the window mullions and the glass unit (at least 5 mm), then you should seek an explanation from the company that made the windows for you, so that the company’s employees can eliminate this deficiency. It is necessary to check the gaps between the frame and the glass unit before removing the old window.

We install the double-glazed window evenly and fix it with plastic beads, which have profile tenons that are inserted into the grooves of the window frame by lightly tapping the beads, when the tenon goes into the groove and a click is heard. A click means the staple is securely fastened.

After the window is installed, we fill the void between the window frame and the window with foam for installation, both on the inside and outside of the house. Excess hardened polyurethane foam is cut off with a sharp knife.

After this, you can begin finishing with platbands, fittings and drainage.

source: http://stroykaportal.ru/

How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house

The relevance of the question: “How to install plastic windows in a wooden house” (and not only plastic ones) lies in the fact that wooden houses have great instability. Moreover, unlike a stone or reinforced concrete house, this instability manifests itself throughout the entire service life of a wooden house.

If these factors are not taken into account when installing plastic windows or doors in a wooden house, very unpleasant (to put it mildly) problems may arise!

What is special about a wooden house? And the fact is that wood tends to “shrink,” especially in the first years after construction. Those who claim that the log house shrinks within a year after its installation are mistaken.

Yes, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs in the first year, but the process continues for at least 5 years, and in some climatic zones – for a lifetime! As the logs or beams dry, the height of the wall can decrease to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. This means that the height of the wall can “shrink” up to 6 cm.

And imagine now what will happen to the plastic window if, as always, you left a gap of 2 - 2.5 cm for the foam?! So, is installing plastic windows in a wooden house generally unrealistic? Quite the opposite!

But only if a special structure, called a casing or casing, is installed in the opening.

The purpose of this design is to give windows (and not only plastic ones) complete independence from load-bearing walls at home, eliminate even the slightest load on the window during shrinkage or curvature of the walls:

1. The casing prevents the logs from moving from the vertical in the window opening.
2. Does not interfere with vertical shrinkage.
3. Takes on all the load.
4. Strengthens the wall of the house in the area of ​​the opening.

Let's take a closer look at this system. The simplest casing option is when a vertical groove of 50x50 mm is cut at the ends of the opening logs and a beam of the same size is inserted into it.

But this method of framing is ONLY suitable for wooden windows. Therefore, we will not dwell on it. A more reliable casing option is when a ridge is made at the ends of the logs, and a window carriage with a groove is put on it.

Now the logs, when shrinking (due to the ridge), will slide inside the groove without deviating from the vertical and without pressing down on the window.

It happens that a groove is made in logs, but the tenon is on the gun carriage, the main meaning, I think, is clear.

Window carriages are vertical beams 150x100 mm, at the ends of which 50x50 cutouts are made for inserting horizontal lintels - boards 150x50 mm with tenons at the ends.

The assembled casing is made smaller than the window opening by 7 - 8 cm in height. This gap is left in anticipation of wall shrinkage. When assembling the frame in the opening, we cover the ridges with rolled tow and stuff the carriages onto it. This will save us from squeaks during shrinkage and insulate the opening.

Note!

Next, the procedure is as follows: we lay the lower jumper, stuff carriages onto the comb with tow, insert the upper jumper into the upper gap and lower it into the grooves. We fasten the entire structure with self-tapping screws, trying not to grab the ridge, otherwise the whole point of installing the casing will be lost. We also stuff tow into the gap between the sapling and the logs.

But now you can install plastic windows into a wooden house without fear of the consequences. We carry out installation in compliance with all technologies: steam - noise - moisture protection. The gap between the casing and the frame is filled with thin boards wrapped in tow.

As the house shrinks, they have to be knocked out and replaced with others. To do this, the upper casing (attached only to the casing) is carefully removed and, after replacing the filling, put back in place.

At seminars I was often asked the question: why does a window installer need to know the technology of building a wooden house? And then, so that you can determine whether it is possible to install a window in this opening.

And, if necessary, equip it with a classic casing. Of course for a fee. In my practice there have been such cases.

Now such an important moment. You install a plastic window in a wooden house where there are wooden windows. The platbands were removed for accurate measurements, but there was no casing. That is, the old window box acts as a window frame.

This is where the owner has to make a choice (with your help): remodel the window opening for casing or very significantly reduce the size of the future window. After all, on each side you need to add the thickness of the casing + window frame + gap for foam. And what will remain there?!

And in conclusion, I want to warn you:

Helpful advice!

Under no circumstances agree to install windows without casing in the opening. Even if the owner proves that the house is 300 years old and “all the shrinkage has already settled.” The tree “breathes” all its life with all the consequences, as they say.

Well, as a last resort, you can give in to the client, at his responsibility. But do not forget to put a dash in the contract in the “Guarantee” column!!!

Still, installing plastic windows in a wooden house requires very serious attention.

A wooden house means comfort, warmth and a special aroma. Today, when the frantic rhythm of a big city is boring, as is the abundance of reinforced concrete, wooden buildings regaining their former popularity. In exchange for numerous advantages and logs, you have to put up with their features. For example, choosing the first plastic windows you come across and installing them using standard technology will not work - a special approach is needed, otherwise there is a risk of replacing the windows in a couple of years, no matter how high quality they are. We'll figure out which windows to choose for a wooden house and how to install them so that they last the period stated by the manufacturer.

No. 1. What kind of windows are installed in wooden houses?

Previously, in wooden houses, as in all others, only wooden windows were installed - there were no other options, but their quality was very different. If the house has old wooden windows in good condition and it would be a pity to dismantle them, then it makes sense to restore them. However, in most cases, the most logical thing to do would be to replace the old windows with new double-glazed windows, and here great difficulties await us. The issue for a wooden house is acute for those involved. You will also have to pay a lot of attention to correct installation window.

The following windows are suitable for a wooden house:

• ordinary wooden;
• wooden euro windows;
• plastic windows.

Windows with a decorative layout look impressive in a wooden house.

No. 6. Features of installing windows in a wooden house

When it comes to a wooden house, window installation is somewhat more complicated compared to concrete and other houses. The reason is strong tree shrinkage, especially in the first years after the construction of the building. Shrinkage occurs due to the wood losing stored moisture, and the worse the wood has been dried, the more volume it will lose. Over a year, shrinkage can be up to 1.5 cm per meter of height; this process is most active in the first 5 years, then the tree can also change volume, absorbing and releasing moisture. If you install a window using traditional technology, then in the first year you may not notice any problems, because the layer will compress under the weight of the wood, but then the structure itself will begin to deform, and eventually the glass will crack.

Whatever design is chosen, you will need casing, or pigtail. This is an essential element of a modern wooden house, which allows you to make the window structure independent of the movement of the walls. The socket does not allow the logs to move in a vertical plane in the area where the window opening is located, but at the same time does not interfere with the shrinkage and normal breathing of the tree. In addition, the pigtail allows you to further strengthen the wall.

If installed window in a wooden frame, then installation can be carried out using simplified technology. It is enough to make a vertical groove in the ends of the logs measuring 5 * 5 cm, insert the corresponding sizes into this groove wooden beam, this will be the casing.

Second option somewhat more complicated, can be used for any type of window. It consists of cutting out a ridge in a log, on which a vertical beam with a groove, called a carriage, is installed. You can make a groove in the log, and a ridge on the carriage. The tongue-and-groove design will allow the log to slide freely without moving vertically. Installation in this case is performed in the following sequence:

Installing a window in a prepared frame comes down to the following steps:

• preparing small (5-10 mm) grooves for attaching the window sill;
• installing the window sill using a level and fastening it with self-tapping screws. Plastic window sill requires the use of a rubber washer. Holes are made in those places that will eventually be covered by the window;
• leveling the window frame and fixing it with anchors, followed by foaming;
• checking the frame for verticality and horizontality, installing double-glazed windows;
• installation of glazing beads, foaming of cracks.

Of course, it is best to entrust the installation of a window in a wooden house to a professional - here you will need knowledge of the intricacies and details on which the durability of the installed structure will depend.