home Heating options Self-installation of plastic windows. Installation of plastic windows according to GOST - detailed instructions

Self-installation of plastic windows. Installation of plastic windows according to GOST - detailed instructions

If you or someone you know has previously used the services of companies installing double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, the quality will be much higher than in the first (you can read more about the standards in GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! Manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, the structure simply will not fit into the opening.

However, if you study all the intricacies of the process, then no difficulties will arise during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name) that prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be covered with special covers. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the internal and external widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster for a more accurate result.
Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! The measurements must be repeated several times and the lowest result taken.

To determine the width of the window, two installation gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening are checked, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm to the existing drainage for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the width of the opening is added to the size of the overhang, and the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. Regarding the offset, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation is complete.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is cleared, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pryed with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the “ventilation mode” (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. All that remains is the frame with imposts.

Note! Imposts are special jumpers designed to separate the sashes.

Then you need to make a marking for the anchors and make holes along it - two on the bottom/top and three on each side. To do this, you will need ø1 cm anchors and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is not dense (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces for each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled the day before installation. This way the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the fastening, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed and the cement layer underneath is cleaned off.

Step 4. Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer material (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to level the structure), only after this is it fastened to the wall. You can leave the backings - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install a low sill with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. It is typical that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is level, then it is secured with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled using a hammer drill through pre-prepared holes in the structure (approximately 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final inspection. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaning gun cleaners

Polyurethane foams and cleaners for construction guns

Stage 6. Drainage

From the outside, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the ebb are recessed several centimeters into the walls, having previously made indentations using a hammer drill.

Note! Before installation, the bottom gap is also sealed.

Stage 7. Window assembly

After attaching the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber hammer).

Step 2. The doors are opened and their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the seams are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled to no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead.” If everything is done correctly, after drying the foam will protrude out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and material with a foil surface is used underneath.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. Subsequently, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after completion of installation (then the foam will have already “set”).

The described technology is also quite applicable to, although it also has its own nuances - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it correctly from our new article.

Installing PVC windows yourself is a simple process that does not require any special skills or technological skills. Immediately after the new windows are delivered to your home, you can begin installation yourself, spending a little time. But it is necessary not only to carry out the installation - you also need to prepare the workspace, stock up on tools and avoid possible mistakes that lead to negative consequences.

So, you already have ready-made PVC windows at home that you can install. First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old window frames and prepare the workspace for the subsequent installation of new double-glazed windows.

Dismantling is very easy and requires only a few tools. These are a crowbar, a screwdriver, a hammer and a chisel. Dismantling is carried out as follows:

The first stage - we dismantle the old windows

First of all windows are removed. To do this, you need to use a hammer and a chisel (or screwdriver). First, the movable windows with frames are removed. To do this, use a screwdriver to carefully pry bottom loop, on which the window is attached, after which it is pryed off top loop. Afterwards, several intense but careful blows are applied from below the frame - this way it should come out of the hinges. If the movable window was not fixed tightly enough, then a small force is enough to remove it from its hinges.
After dismantling the movable windows, it is necessary remove the window sill. To do this, take a chisel and a hammer, with the help of which the plaster is beaten into the grooves of the window sill. We put the tools aside and take the crowbar. With its help, the window sill is lifted from below (in the area between the window sill itself and the concrete slab) and loosened - for easy dismantling it is necessary that the window sill “walk” freely. If there is any filler or fixings under the sill (older structures typically have wood blocks for support), they are removed. After this, the window sill is carefully lifted from the side of the frame with a crowbar and pulled forward with several sharp movements. As a rule, old window sills are loosely fixed, so removing them will not be a problem.
The entire window frame is dismantled. Plaster is beaten with a hammer along the perimeter of the window - its thin layer hides the spacers on which the frame rests. Initially, the wooden spacers from the side are removed. After this, a part of the window frame is pulled out using a crowbar.

As a rule, many builders neglect all the rules of dismantling - a wooden window sill is simply cut into pieces with a grinder, and a concrete one is broken using a hammer drill. The frames are also cut into pieces, after which they are removed from the opening in separate pieces.

Preparing the window opening and windows

After dismantling the old window frames, there will be a lot of construction waste. On the surface of the opening there may be remnants of old insulation, plaster and small debris (chips, sawdust, etc.). All this must be removed from the surface of the opening. Ideally, before installing new PVC windows, the window opening should be presented either with neat brickwork (if the house is brick) or with a flat and smooth concrete slab (if the house is panel). All irregularities, cracks and chips are covered with plaster and leveled.

Is the window opening ready? Then you need to check the condition of the PVC windows. It is necessary to inspect the block for deformation, and then check that all parts are complete. Be sure to check the availability of the following components:

Windowsill;
Plugs;
Mounting profile;
Anchor plates required for fastening the window;
Installation instructions (some manufacturers provide it in one set with the double-glazed window);
Accessories (handles, handle caps);
Low tide.

After everything has been checked, it is necessary to prepare tools for installation work.

Tools for installing PVC windows

To install PVC windows with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Building level;
Screwdriver;
Polyurethane foam and a gun for it;
Hammer;
Primer;
Hexagons (it is advisable to have 5-6 pieces in a set);
Pencil or marker;
Roulette;
Paint brush.

As a rule, installers are limited to a smaller set of tools. But, since you need to do the correct installation of a plastic window yourself, and these windows must be installed securely, it is recommended to use the list above.

Taking measurements of windows

You can carry out two measurement methods - with a quarter and without a quarter. Let's take a closer look at each of these methods.

Taking measurements without a quarter

The PVC window is installed in the cleaned and pre-prepared window opening. To order a window, you need to make the following calculations:

Window height: five centimeters are subtracted from the vertical of the window opening;
Window width: three centimeters are subtracted horizontally from the window opening.

The resulting gaps will subsequently be filled with foam. As a result, the following parameters are obtained: an indentation of 1.5 centimeters is made on the sides of the opening and 2.5 centimeters on the top and bottom sides.

After this, the window sill and drain are measured. Each value obtained must be increased by at least 6-7 centimeters.

Taking measurements with a quarter

Measurements are carried out as follows: the window opening is measured horizontally at the narrowest point. The resulting value must be increased by three centimeters - this way the required window width is determined. In the vertical direction, the length is measured from the base of the window opening to the upper quarter - this way the height of the window is determined.

Based on the results of measurements, you should get the following indicators:

Window width and height;
Width and height of the window sill;
Width and height of drain.

Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

In most cases, GOST for the installation of plastic windows is purely advisory. However, we recommend adhering to the basic requirements - this is necessary, first of all, for the home owner himself.

There are two installation technologies. Do-it-yourself installation of double-glazed windows can be done with and without unpacking windows. In the first case, it is necessary to completely disassemble the window - remove the glazing beads, pull out the double-glazed window, then fix the frame with anchor bolts in the opening, and then install the double-glazed windows and glazing beads. In the second case, the window is not disassembled, but is fixed using special fasteners, anchor plates, without the use of through fastening with dowels. The first method is considered more difficult and requires certain work skills. That is why we will consider only the second case, as the most preferable for the majority of ordinary people.

Installing windows

Before you start installing windows according to GOST, you need to create your own plan. This can be either a self-developed drawing or instructions that come with the manufacturer. Following the plan will help you complete the work without errors and with maximum accuracy.

The work is performed as follows:

The surface of a pre-prepared window opening treated with a primer in order to ensure better adhesion with hydro- and vapor barrier tapes. You need to apply the primer with a regular paint brush.
We remove the packaging from the windows and glue it on the semi-perimeter of the frame sealing tape PSUL. This will provide additional protection for the polyurethane foam from the harmful effects of UV rays and precipitation.
The window frame is installed in the opening. We will consider this point in more detail later.
Fill the seam with polyurethane foam.
The next step is to cover the frame internal vapor barrier. To do this, a vapor-proof tape is glued along the inside of the frame.

We use the following rules when installing a plastic window:

We put marks on those places of the frame where the fastening will subsequently take place.
Fastening elements are attached to the frames from the sides, while a step of 50 cm is maintained. It must be taken into account that the maximum indentation from the edges should be no more than 15 cm.
Fastening elements - anchor plates - are attached to the window opening with self-tapping screws.
The window is placed on plastic mounting wedges according to the construction level. Any deviations must be avoided.
For additional fixation on the sides, mounting wedges or ordinary wooden blocks are used - they are inserted into the spaces between the fasteners.

On the outside of the window, after installing the frame, a diffuse tape under the ebb is fixed.
The openings that remain between the window frame and the walls must be filled with foam.

Tip: When fastening the window frame using fasteners, there is no need to tightly tighten all the screws. Only after the structure is finally secured can the fastening elements be brought to the stop.

The window sill comes in one set with metal-plastic windows. The master himself determines what width it should have. Measurements are taken, after which the window sill is carefully trimmed to the required length. Next, the window sill is installed as follows:

The window sill is installed on wooden blocks and adjusted in height. The adjustment must be carried out with a building level so that the window sill is strictly horizontal in relation to the window opening.
After the position is finally established, the window sill is removed and plugs are put on its side parts. An adhesive mixture is laid on the wooden blocks that serve as the base for the window sill (it is recommended to use SM-11 or a similar material).
The window sill is reinstalled on the bars and pressed a little. During this procedure, it is necessary to use a building level, since the window sill may move slightly to the side during installation.
After the adhesive solution is fixed, the space between the window sill and the window opening is blown with foam.

Low tide installation

Either a home-made drip sill or the one that comes with a metal-plastic bag can be installed. If you purchase a drain, you need to take into account that it is attached with self-tapping screws to the bottom profile, and the part of the window protruding above it must protect the junction of the profile with the drain. The drain itself is installed extremely simply: a profile is attached to the window opening, after which the drain is secured to it using self-tapping screws. For additional protection of the attachment point, blowing with polyurethane foam is carried out.

Sealing PVC windows

Technological features of foaming are written on the container with polyurethane foam. Each master can verify this independently by reading the detailed instructions indicated on the cylinder. The foam polymerization process is catalyzed at high humidity. That is why, before starting the sealing process, it is necessary to wet the areas with plain water. In the absence of moisture, polymerization will not be of sufficient quality.

After the foam has hardened, it must be carefully cut using a regular stationery knife. Do this carefully so as not to damage the metal-plastic windows.

Advice: Do not try to fill the entire cavity of the assembly seam the first time. First, you need to apply a little foam using a mounting gun, wait until it swells, and then reapply the required amount.

Common installation mistakes

Both beginners and experts can make mistakes when installing plastic windows. Generally, the most common are the following:

Taking incorrect measurements or lack thereof;
Selecting unsuitable profiles for installation;
Installation on an uneven surface, or on a surface that has not been previously cleaned;
Installation of PVC windows without level;
Incorrectly secured window. Some people either use too many fasteners or none at all. There is only one result - the window may become deformed during operation;
Installing a window at insufficient depth. If the window is placed too close to the inner edge of the window opening, the temperature around the window may significantly drop, and, as a result, condensation may form;
Improper sealing. The installation seams are either insufficiently filled with foam or unevenly. This leads to the fact that after several years of operation the window begins to fog up and loses some of its advantages.

In order to avoid common mistakes, it is necessary to carry out installation exclusively according to the instructions and in compliance with technological features.

Conclusion

As a conclusion, I would like to note: installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any difficulties. The entire process of installing one medium-sized double-glazed window lasts for one day. This takes into account not only the installation process itself, but also the time spent on dismantling, cleaning and preparation. As a result, you will not only get a reliable design, but also significantly save your own money.

We hope that our description of the technological process for installing PVC windows will help you in further construction work.

Installation of plastic windows photo

This section presents photographs on the topic of today's article. All photos are clickable.

Relatively recently, all residential buildings had ordinary wooden windows, which had to be sealed for the winter. Today it is almost a relic of the past. And most people strive to replace such windows with modern plastic window structures, and they are especially interested in installing plastic windows with their own hands.

This desire of the consumer is quite understandable - plastic windows not only have an aesthetic appearance, but also serve as interior decoration. They are also much easier to use, last an order of magnitude longer, and are significantly cheaper than their wooden counterparts.

If you have a desire to replace the old windows in your apartment with modern double-glazed windows, then you will certainly ask yourself whether it is possible to install a plastic window yourself. How difficult is it to install plastic windows, and can you do it yourself without the help of specialists?

Yes, it's quite possible. In order to install a plastic window with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a construction specialty. With certain skills and good tools, anyone can install a plastic window with their own hands.

Let's figure out how to do it right.

What does a plastic window consist of?

First, let's look at the design of a plastic window. Without this, you will not understand the installation process itself.

Plastic windows are made from a special material called PolyVinyl Chloride. That’s why plastic windows are called PVC windows in short. Like any window, the main element of a PVC window is a frame made of a profile consisting of cells. The more such cells in the frame (also called chambers), the warmer the window will be.

Typically the frame color is white. Although plastic can be black, brown, and even colored. The most common and most budget option is white plastic windows.

In addition, the window consists of an opening part (sash) and a stationary part, which is called a “capercaillie”. The glass unit is directly inserted into these parts of the window, which is pressed against the frame with a special plastic strip. For tightness, a black rubber seal is placed.

Special mechanisms are installed on the window sashes, with the help of which the window opens and closes.

In addition, on the outside the window has a so-called ebb - a small board with the help of which precipitation is removed, and slopes - plates that seal the side and top parts from the street side.

Stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands

All stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands come down to the following:

careful measurements;
dismantling old window structures;
preparation of window openings;
DIY PVC window installation.

Taking measurements

Before ordering and, accordingly, installing a plastic window, you need to make several measurements. Moreover, how carefully they are done will determine how your structure will fit into the window opening. Remember that accurate measurements are almost half the battle. If you take the measurements incorrectly, when installing plastic windows yourself, the structure simply will not fit into the opening. In addition, the windows may begin to freeze.

First you need to carefully examine the opening. If the part of the window that is smaller on the outside, then measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Moreover, it is highly advisable to make several of them, because window openings are rarely perfectly smooth. Find the smallest measurement value and add 3 to it. Measure the height, leave its value as it is.

If the window is the same size both inside and outside, measurements are taken slightly differently. You need to measure the width and height. Then you need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 from the width. This will be the full size of your window, with width and height. We subtract the values in order to leave gaps for installing the window sill and special mounting foam.

Each owner chooses the window sill according to the size he wants. Some like wide window sills, some like narrow ones, and some make them at wall level. This is individual, and there are no rules here. This applies to width.

The length of both the window sill and the ebb should be taken with a margin - about 10 cm wider than the window opening.

Getting ready for installation

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows always begins with dismantling the old window. As a rule, even novice builders find dismantling particularly easy.

After you have broken out the old window, you need to carefully inspect the opening and remove anything that may fall off later. If some parts of the opening protrude from the walls after dismantling, they must also be removed and the surfaces smoothed. Potholes, if any. It should be sealed with cement mortar.

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, you must take into account the following circumstances:

the plastic window structure should be carefully secured;
the window structure must be leveled both horizontally and vertically, otherwise in the future it may simply warp;
It is necessary to plaster the mounting foam on all sides, with which the structure is attached, also in order to avoid future problems such as deformation.

Plastic window installation technology

Install a plastic window with your own hands as follows:

The structure should be fixed on four sides using wedges, and it should be determined how accurately the frame is positioned relative to the opening;
secure the frame with special bolts;
attach the structure with screws to the wooden part;
seal the plastic structure using polyurethane foam, spreading it over a surface slightly moistened with water.

You need to start with the fact that there are two different ways to install plastic windows with your own hands.

The first method is to drill holes in the window frame for special anchors, which are driven into the wall. This is a rather complicated method, but a more reliable fastening.

The second method is that metal plates are first attached to the frame from the outside, and only then these plates are attached to the walls. This is a much simpler and faster method, but such fastening is not reliable. The frame can simply warp even in strong winds. Therefore, if you nevertheless decide to make your life easier and install a plastic window with your own hands using the second method, use thick and wide metal plates. In this case, you can give your plastic structure greater reliability. However, if your city is very windy, this method is definitely not suitable for you.

Direct installation

Installing a plastic window with your own hands using the first method with reliable fastening is carried out as follows.

First, you should check whether the structure and the window opening are compatible. If everything is in order, we proceed directly to installation.

First you need to remove the window sash. For this:

turn the window handle down, placing the window in the “closed” position, and use a screwdriver to remove the trim from the hinges;
pull out the pin, which is located on the top hinge;
open the shutter by turning the window handle to a horizontal position, after which, by lifting the window sash, you can easily remove it from the lower pin.

After you have removed the sash, you need to remove the double-glazed window on the capecaillie. For this:

insert a small spatula or something similar, strong enough, thin and not wide, into the gap between the frame and the bead;
move the glazing bead with a spatula, going along the entire length, and remove it from the frame.

After this, you can easily remove the glass unit itself. The main thing is that it does not fall out of the frame after the glazing beads you removed are no longer holding it. To avoid this, the window should be tilted.

The frame is freed from the glass unit, and now it should be covered around the perimeter with special tape. This tape is needed to keep the window warm.

As a rule, white self-adhesive protective tapes are glued to the frames. It is also advisable to remove them, because later, when they heat up in the sun and stick to the frame, fused with it, this will be difficult to do. In the meantime, the tapes are very easy to remove.

Now the frame needs to be inserted into the window opening. To do this, you will need mounting wedges, which are placed in the corners (this is a mandatory requirement), as well as in other places where you deem it necessary.

Using a drill and a drill bit, special holes are made into which the fasteners are inserted. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the top edge. The bottom hole should be approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. The gap between two fasteners should not be more than 5-7 cm.
The anchor is hammered into the hole and then tightened. At the same time, you must tighten the anchor carefully, trying not to overtighten, otherwise the profile will bend, and this cannot be allowed. This operation - tightening the anchors - is continued as many times as necessary.

After this, ebb tides should be installed outside. Before installation, self-adhesive waterproofing should be applied to the part of the frame that is located outside. Grooves are made in the side openings (the edges of these ebbs will need to be inserted there later).

On that part of the opening where the ebb will rest on the wall, a special profile is installed, to which the ebb will then be attached. If the height difference is small, you don’t have to install the profile, but simply apply a layer of polyurethane foam. Then the ebb should be placed under the ledge of the frame and attached to it with self-tapping screws. Along the lower edge of the ebb, you also need to fill it with polyurethane foam.

Now let's take a closer look at the second method of installing plastic windows with your own hands - using plates.

This method is much simpler, although, as we have already said, it is less reliable. Installation using this method involves installing thick metal plates.

They should be installed at the same distance as the anchors in the first installation method - approximately 2 cm from the edge, and no more than 7 cm between those in the middle. The metal plates are simply screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws.

In all other respects, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is completely identical to the first installation method. In the same way, the window is leveled in three planes, after which all actions are identical. Simply, unlike the first method, they do not attach the frame itself, but metal plates, and attach them to the so-called dowel-nails. The peculiarity of the fastening is that they first drill a hole, then bend the metal plate, insert a dowel into the hole, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows with your own hands

If you install plastic windows incorrectly, this can lead to the fact that the house will be cold; water will flow into the room through improperly installed ebbs. And the expensive structures themselves will quickly become unusable. And if professional installers sometimes make mistakes when installing PVC windows, then, of course, an amateur who installs plastic windows with his own hands is not immune from them.

Let's look at the 10 most common mistakes made when installing plastic windows.

The window size is incorrect

This is usually a consequence of incorrect, careless measurement of the window opening, and, accordingly, the manufacture of an unsuitable window structure. And in case the window is too large in size. And if the size is very small, it is simply impossible to install such structures.

Poor preparation of the window opening

If the surfaces are poorly cleaned, there is construction debris, dust, potholes left on them, or, on the contrary, parts of the wall protrude on the surface of the opening, the polyurethane foam will not fit as tightly and evenly as is necessary for high-quality installation of plastic windows with your own hands. In addition, this kind of pollution absorbs moisture very well, and it will soon end up inside your apartment.

Ignoring wall insulation

If a plastic window is installed without taking into account the thermal insulation of the wall, then cold air will penetrate into the apartment at the joints. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the layers of walls when installing plastic windows. If the wall consists of one layer, the window should be placed exactly in the middle of the wall. If the wall is double-layered, the window should be installed at the very edge, as close to the insulation as possible. And if the wall is three-layer, then it is necessary to install a PVC window directly in the plane of the wall insulation, in order to avoid heat loss.

Incorrect distance between the window frame and the slope

If the window frame is located too close to the slope, the seal in this place will be of poor quality, and moisture will begin to appear and accumulate in these places. If, on the contrary, the frame is located too far from the slope, then there is a risk of deformation, since the load on the anchors or metal plates is too great.

Incorrect size of window sill

The window sill should be slightly narrower than the window frame itself. If it is a different size, or they decide not to install it at all, then water will penetrate under the window frame due to the lack of a normal seal in this place, and as a result, the wall will constantly be wet. Metal parts can simply corrode after a certain time.

Poor quality fastening of PVC window to the wall

If you skimp on dowels or anchors and there are too few of them to attach the window structure to the wall properly, over time the position of the window will change, the frame will become deformed, and it will be difficult for you to tear off and close the window.

Not enough polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is practically the only material for insulating a window structure and the wall itself to which it is attached. If there is not enough foam, the heat will escape. Therefore, the gap between the slope and the window frame must be filled properly, not sparing the mounting foam.

No insulation tape

If you decide not to use the insulating tape required by GOST on the inside and outside of the window structure, be prepared for the fact that the thermal insulation will gradually become worse and worse. Accordingly, the windows will deteriorate much faster than you would like.

Therefore, if you decide to install a plastic window with your own hands, try to go through all the necessary steps and perform all the necessary actions efficiently, carefully and slowly. Then your beautiful plastic windows, installed by yourself, will delight you and your household for many years.

Replacing old wooden doors and windows with plastic ones is still quite expensive. This very necessary and useful event can be significantly reduced in cost, because a significant part of the costs is the labor of installers. Having some skills in working with ordinary household tools, the home owner will be able to carry out the installation on his own; you just need to carefully read the material presented below.

Types of plastic windows

First you need to choose a suitable window, which is not so easy to do, because these products are available in a wide variety of designs.

Number of leaves

Windows up to 1.5x1 m in size are usually made single-leaf, larger ones - double-hung, and the widest and tallest - three-hung. In some cases, when the window dimensions exceed the standards, there may be more sashes. “Multi-leaf” should be avoided if possible, since the partition between the sashes - the so-called impost - due to the characteristics of the frame profile is quite wide, especially if the sashes open.

Main components of a plastic window assembly

For example, in a three-leaf window they reduce the glazing area by about 10%, and also significantly increase the weight of the product. It is advisable to install windows in an apartment with no more than 2 sashes.

Sash type

The following options are available:

Deaf. The simplest and lightest design, but fixed windows are used extremely rarely, since they are difficult to clean from the outside.
Rotary (swing). Such sashes open in the same way as regular wooden window sashes.
Folding. The sash rotates relative to the lower horizontal edge, while its upper part moves out of the frame. This opening mechanism is simpler than a rotary one, but it is only suitable for ventilation. To make it convenient to clean the window from the outside, there must be at least one swing sash next to the folding sash.
Combined (swing and tilt). Today they are the most common. Thanks to the use of a complex mechanism, by turning the handle to one position or another, the sash can be turned into either a folding one (in everyday life this is called “ventilation mode”) or a rotary one.

One window block may contain different types of sashes

If there are several sashes in a window, they may be of different types. For example, in a tricuspid, the outer leaves can be rotary or combined, and the middle one can be blind.

Number of cameras in the frame

During the manufacturing process of the profile, from 3 to 7 longitudinal cavities are formed in it - they increase the thermal resistance of the product. If the building is located in a region with a warm climate or is unheated (outbuilding or garage, warehouse), a 3-chamber window can be installed in it.

In residential buildings in regions with cold climates, it is necessary to install windows from a 5-chamber profile or at least a 4-chamber profile.

Profiles with 6 and 7 chambers are significantly more expensive than 5-chamber ones and are heavier, but at the same time they have almost the same thermal resistance, so purchasing them is not recommended. It would be more rational to install a double-glazed window with a larger width.

Profile type according to wall thickness

For use in residential premises, a type “A” profile is intended, in which the outer wall has a thickness of 2.8 mm and the inner wall is 2.5 mm thick. In rooms where the microclimate is not so important, for example, in industrial areas, you can use windows from type “B” and “C” profiles with a smaller wall thickness.

Number of cameras in a double-glazed window

A double-glazed window can be assembled from 2, 3 or 4 sheets of glass, respectively, it can have one, two or three chambers. The more chambers, the higher the thermal resistance and sound insulation. In residential buildings today, in most cases, 2-chamber double-glazed windows are installed.

The most common are two- and three-chamber double-glazed windows

3-chamber ones are slightly superior in thermal resistance and noise insulation, but they cost and weigh much more, so purchasing them is not recommended. Single-chamber double-glazed windows are used only on balconies, in various unheated buildings, shops, etc.

Speaking about the “intimacy” of a window, it can mean the number of cameras both in the double-glazed window and in the frame. Therefore, if we are talking about a 3-chamber window, you need to clarify which element has three chambers.

We recommend paying attention to double-glazed windows with increased sound insulation, in which the glass is installed at different distances from each other. It is selected so that sound waves are damped by their own reflection.

Glass type

Today, along with conventional glass, energy-saving glass is used in metal-plastic windows. They have an absolutely transparent metal coating that reflects infrared radiation. Energy-saving glass is also called I-glass. Instead of air, the glass unit assembled from them is filled with an inert gas - argon, xenon or some other gas.

In combination with spraying, this increases thermal resistance by 10-15%.

Some unscrupulous manufacturers offer customers double-glazed windows filled with argon or xenon, but made of ordinary glass. Such double-glazed windows are presented as energy efficient and are sold at a higher price. In fact, the difference in thermal resistance with a conventional “air” double-glazed window is a maximum of 2%. Therefore, when purchasing, check whether the glass is coated.

Also, double-glazed windows are made from tinted, tempered (if damaged, they crumble into small safe fragments) glass, as well as triplex.

Form

Along with rectangular ones, triangular, trapezoidal, hexagonal, arched, round and oval windows are manufactured.

Plastic windows can have the most unexpected configurations - from simple geometric shapes to their bizarre combinations

Frame appearance

The frame can be not only white, but also colored, as well as laminated with a polymer film with a pattern imitating the texture of wood.

Types of plastic doors

Doors, like windows, can also differ in a number of parameters: purpose, types of door leaf and threshold, etc.

Purpose

According to their purpose, doors are divided into:

input;
balcony;
interior

External doors are insulated (made of a 5-chamber profile), often reinforced with steel sheets or bars. The profile wall has a thickness of at least 3 mm.

External plastic doors are made with insulation and reinforcement with a metal grid or sheet

In terms of heat and sound insulation characteristics, a balcony door does not differ from an entrance door, but it is less protected from burglary and has a mechanism that allows it to be kept ajar for the purpose of ventilation.

Balcony doors differ from entrance doors in the presence of a mechanism that keeps them in ventilation mode

The interior door is the simplest and cheapest. It has no insulation or burglary protection.

The interior plastic door differs from the entrance and balcony doors in its simplicity of design

Blade type

There are two types of canvas:

Two types of double-glazed windows are used in doors:

single-chamber: for interior doors;
two-chamber: for external doors.

Threshold type

Metal-plastic doors can be equipped with three types of thresholds:

Opening method

Many options available:

Hinged: the sash rotates relative to the vertical axis in one direction.
Pendulum: the door opens in both directions.
Carousel: rotates in a circle.
Sliding: the canvas moves to the side, as if hiding into the wall or moving along it.
Folding: the canvas consists of several sections and can be folded like an accordion.

The sliding door leaf can be hidden in the wall structure or move along its surface

Strength class

There are three classes:

class “A”: the most durable doors;
class “B”: medium in strength;
class “B”: the least durable.

How to take measurements correctly

Before measuring the window opening, it is advisable to knock down the slopes in order to clearly see its boundaries. The fastest way to do this is with a hammer drill equipped with a special tool - a “shovel”.

Having exposed the main material of the walls, measure the height and width of the opening. Measurements must be taken at several points along the opening, after which the smallest values are selected from the obtained values. In openings with a quarter, measurements are taken along the outside of the opening, that is, the distances between the edges of the quarters are taken.

The size of the window will depend on the type of opening:

For openings with a quarter: the width of the window is determined by adding 3 cm to the width of the opening from the outside. The height of the window is taken equal to the height of the opening from the outside (that is, between the quarter projections).
For openings without a quarter: the width of the window is determined by subtracting two widths of the installation gap from the width of the opening. The latter is 1.5–2 cm, therefore, you need to subtract 3–4 cm.

From the measurement of the width of the window opening, two installation gaps should be subtracted (in total this value will be 3–4 cm)

The height of the window is calculated by subtracting two mounting gaps and the height of the stand profile from the height of the opening.

The height of a plastic window is determined by measuring the opening and then subtracting from the result the height of the stand profile and two installation gaps

The width of the ebb and window sill is selected based on how deep it is decided to place the window in the opening. Typically, 1/3 of the wall thickness extends from the outer surface of the wall. Then the width of the ebb will be 1/3 of the wall thickness + 5 cm.

The width of the window sill is calculated as follows: add 2 cm to the distance from the inner surface of the window to the inner surface of the wall (by this value the window sill will be placed under the window) and also the width of the protruding part, which should be such that the window sill overlaps the heating radiator underneath by half of it (radiator) width.

The optimal length margin for a window sill is 15 cm. The amount of margin can be reduced, but not more than 8 cm. It should be taken into account that the window will look less attractive.

The diagram is an illustration of the concepts of quantities involved in determining the size of a plastic window, slopes and window sill

To determine the dimensions of the door frame, you need to subtract two installation gaps from the width of the opening (they have the same width of 1.5–2 cm), and only one from the height of the opening.

Video: how to measure the opening for a plastic window

Preparing the opening

Immediately before installing the product, dismantle the old filling.

Removing old windows

Performed in the following sequence:

Platbands, if any, are dismantled. Here it may be difficult to remove the fasteners. If nails were used for this purpose, you need to pry the frame with a nail puller or a thin chisel and pull slightly towards yourself to slightly pull the nails out of the frame. If you then return the platband to its place with a hammer, the heads of the nails will stick out from it, so that you can grab them with a nail puller or pliers. When unscrewing screws, the tip of the screwdriver must be pressed into the grooves on the head as hard as possible so that they do not get “licked off”.
The remains of the plaster on the slopes are knocked down with a hammer drill with the already mentioned “shovel”.
Next, the sashes are removed.
Insulation and fragments of plaster mortar are removed from the gap between the frame and the wall.
The window sill is dismantled. The layer of cement mortar underneath is knocked off with a chisel.
The frame fastening is unscrewed, after which it is pulled out of the opening. You should not save the old window, as it is usually thrown away. Therefore, if necessary, the frame can be cut.

Video: dismantling an old window

Removing old doors

Old doors are removed from the opening in the same way as windows.

Next, the opening needs to be cleared of debris, paint and dust. The floor in the doorway is also cleaned, since the threshold is an integral part of the metal-plastic door. The floor covering must be firmly attached to the base.

After this, the wall is treated with a deep penetration primer.

Video: how to dismantle an interior door

Tools and materials

To install windows and doors, you need to have the following tools:

a drill with an impact mechanism or a hammer drill, as well as drills for concrete and metal;
screwdriver;
level: bubble level is only suitable when installing a door, but for a window you need to use a water level (spirit level);
plumb line;
rubber hammer;
pliers;
knife or spatula.

The materials you will need are:

dowels or anchor bolts;
a container with polyurethane foam (if installation is carried out in cold weather, you will need a special nozzle);
special corners for wedging windows (can be replaced with wooden blocks).

Self-installation of plastic windows

Before installation, the sashes and double-glazed windows must be in a vertical position, for which they are placed against the wall, with cardboard laid on the floor. Elements can only be placed on a flat surface.

Window installation

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

Using a screwdriver or pliers, remove the pins from the upper hinges of the sashes (you need to grab them from below), after which the sashes are removed from the hinges upwards. You need to remove the glass unit from a blind window by prying up the glazing beads with a knife or spatula.
If the PVC window is equipped with opening sashes, they must be removed before installing the frame in the opening
Markings are applied to the frame indicating the position of the fastening elements. The optimal step is 40 cm, 15 cm should be retreated from the corners and impost.
Having equipped the drill with a metal drill, drill holes in the frame according to the markings. You need to drill from the outside.
The frame is installed in the opening, while plastic spacer wedges in the form of corners are laid between it and the ends of the opening (can be replaced with wooden blocks). It is advisable to place the wedges opposite the mounting holes.
The vertical installation of the frame is controlled by a level
By adjusting the position of the wedges, install the frame so that the mounting gaps on all sides are of equal width.
Using a level and plumb line, set the frame in a strictly vertical position.
Markings are applied to the wall through the holes in the frame.
Having removed the frame, drill holes in the wall with a hammer drill equipped with a concrete drill, 6–10 cm deep, for anchors or dowels. Sleeves of fastening elements are installed in the holes.
Reinstall the frame and screw in the fasteners. At this stage you just need to bait it.
Marking the walls for fasteners is done through already drilled holes in the frame
Adjust the position of the frame using a plumb line and a water level, after which the fasteners are finally screwed in. Do not screw in dowels or anchors with force, as they will bend the profile. You need to stop as soon as the cap disappears into the profile or even when it protrudes 1 mm from it.
The sashes or double-glazed windows are installed in place. You should check whether the doors open easily, whether the hinges and other fittings work well.
The opening and frame are sprayed with water. After this, moving from bottom to top, the gap between the frame and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam using rotary and circular movements. Filling should be done in several stages, each time treating an area 25–30 cm long. With this approach, overuse of sealant will be eliminated (the polyurethane foam greatly increases in volume when it dries).
The gaps between the wall and the window frame are filled with foam
From the inside and outside, the seams are first covered with vapor barrier tape (it should be foil-lined at the bottom), then with special strips.
A layer of polyurethane foam is protected on both sides with insulating material

Video: installing a plastic window in a panel house

Window sill installation

The window sill is screwed to the support profile after the window is installed.

The stand profile is necessary for attaching the window sill and protecting the window from freezing

You cannot neglect the installation of the stand profile, as some unscrupulous installers do. In this case, the window sill and ebb will have to be screwed to the window frame, as a result of which its tightness will be compromised. In addition, without a support profile the window will freeze.

The process of attaching the window sill is covered in detail in this article:

Installation of slopes

A window without slopes will look like an unfinished structure through which, regardless of the number of chambers, cold will enter from outside and heat will escape from inside the room.

Upon completion of all work, the protective film is removed from the metal-plastic profile. You should not delay this, since over time the film diffuses into the PVC shell of the profile, as a result of which its removal becomes quite difficult. After installation, the metal-plastic window cannot be opened for at least 16 hours, or better yet 24 hours.

Installation of ebb tides

From the street side, you need to screw the drainage system to the stand profile using self-tapping screws. The connection point must be absolutely waterproof, for which it is carefully treated with sealant.

The edges of the drainage system must be inserted into holes several centimeters deep, specially cut in the wall using a hammer drill.

Installation procedure for drainage system

To prevent the drainage system from making a “drumming” sound when it rains, its bottom needs to be covered with polyurethane foam or covered with Linotherm tape or other noise-insulating material.

Video: mistakes when installing plastic windows and what happens to the foam

Installation of plastic doors

The installation of a metal-plastic door is carried out in almost the same order as the windows.

This is how you can schematically imagine the typical design of a plastic door

Door installation

The fabric is removed from the hinges.
Holes for anchor bolts are drilled in the frame. There should be three of them on each side.
Determine the depth of the door in the opening and screw 4 dowels into the walls - two at the top and two at the bottom. They will serve as limiters for the box, which will greatly facilitate the installation of this heavy element in the desired position. The dowels must be in the same vertical plane, so markings for the holes for them must be applied using a plumb line.
Place the box in the opening, resting it against the stops, and using wedges give it the correct position: the installation gaps on the right and left should be of equal width, the racks should be positioned strictly vertically (controlled by a plumb line or level).
Markings are applied to the walls through the holes in the box, after which the box is removed and holes for anchors or dowels are drilled in the walls according to the markings. You need to hammer sleeves into them for fastening.
Place the box in place and screw it to the walls. At first, the fasteners are only attached, and finally screwed in after the box is leveled or plumb.
Reinstall the door leaf.
Fill the installation gap with polyurethane foam.
If the width of the installation gap exceeds 4 cm, then in order to reduce the cost of foaming (installation foam is an expensive material), it is recommended to partially fill it with polystyrene foam, wooden slats, plasterboard or plywood.

Video: installation of a plastic door

Installation of slopes

Then the slopes are installed. The installation process looks like this:

Cut off the protruding polyurethane foam.
Clean the opening from plaster, paint, wallpaper, etc.
Cracks and crevices are sealed with cement-sand mortar.
Remove the protective film from the metal-plastic profile.
A frame is formed from wooden slats with a cross-section of 20x40 mm, screwing it to the wall with 6x60 mm dowels.
Parts with shapes and sizes corresponding to the slopes are cut out from plastic panels.
Screw the panels to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The seams are coated with sealant, the heads of the screws are covered with a compound to match the color of the panel.

Now you need to remove the remaining protective film from the profile.

Instead of anchors, for fastening windows and doors, you can use special mounting plates, which are embedded on one side in the PVC shell of the profile, and on the other, rest against the walls. With this fastening method, you do not have to drill holes in the profile, however, in terms of its strength, it is significantly inferior to fastening using anchors.

Features of installation in a wooden structure

Due to shrinkage characteristic of wooden buildings, it is recommended to install metal-plastic windows in them at least a year after construction, and preferably after two. If the house is built from laminated veneer lumber, the holding time can be reduced, since this building material is made from well-dried wood and therefore shrinks very little.

The window is first fixed in a wooden frame made from bars soaked in antiseptic, and then installed in this form in the opening. The frame serves as a protective frame that prevents deformation of the window in the event of shrinkage of the structure. To minimize the effect of this phenomenon, a gap of 3–7 cm wide is left between the wooden frame and the upper edge of the opening (depending on the moisture content of the wood and, accordingly, the expected amount of shrinkage). The gap is filled with stuffing made of jute insulation.

The wooden frame is attached to the opening with self-tapping screws.

Since wood has some vapor permeability, the mounting foam used to seal cracks must be protected from moisture. For this purpose, the wooden frame and the ends of the wall in the opening are covered with tape made of thin polyethylene foam coated with foil.

Before installing a metal-plastic door, the doorway must be equipped with a so-called frame. It is also a frame made of timber and is designed to protect the door from the impact of a shrinking wall. In addition, the posts of the frame fasten logs or beams, the connection between which weakens somewhat after the opening is constructed.

The frame protects window and door blocks from deformations that occur during the shrinkage of the log house

To install the frame, vertical grooves with a cross-section of 50x50 mm are cut out with a router in the side walls of the opening. Stands are inserted into these grooves. Next, boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall are nailed to them, parallel to the walls of the opening.

A threshold made of a T-shaped beam 100 mm thick is nailed from below, and a horizontal jumper (top) is nailed from above. The top should push the posts apart, and a gap of 15 cm should be left between it and the upper wall of the opening. The gap is filled with jute insulation and covered on both sides with vapor barrier tape.

Video: what type of casing is there: two types of casing boxes

Rules of care and use

To ensure that your doors and windows last a long time, follow these recommendations:

The metal-plastic profile and fittings should be protected from dirt and dust during construction and repair work.
Also, the profile must be protected from contact with hot metal particles during welding or cutting metal products with a grinder.
The metal-plastic profile and double-glazed windows should be washed using a soap solution or non-abrasive detergents that do not contain acids or solvents.
Particular attention should be paid to the door threshold, which is most susceptible to contamination. When cleaning a room, it must be vacuumed.
At the beginning of the warm season, the pressure on the metal-plastic door should be loosened, and at the beginning of the cold season, it should be strengthened. The pressure is adjusted by rotating one of the screws on the door hinges. In total, each hinge has three screws, each of which, when rotated, moves the blade along one of the mutually perpendicular axes.

Twice a year it is necessary to carry out maintenance, which consists of the following:

all moving mechanisms are lubricated;
the drainage holes located below are cleaned from dirt (except for interior doors);
the condition of the rubber seals is checked, and if contamination is detected, they are cleaned;
rubber seals are rubbed with silicone lubricants (prevent rapid aging of the polymer).

To lubricate mechanisms, oils without acids and resins should be used. These are, for example, machine oil and technical petroleum jelly. Frost-resistant compounds should be used for external fittings.

Due to their tightness, high thermal resistance and immunity to fluctuations in temperature and humidity conditions, metal-plastic doors and windows have now proven to be in great demand. But the installation of such structures is not much different from the installation of conventional wooden analogues. The instructions given in this article will help the user cope with this task independently, as well as create conditions under which windows and doors will last as long as possible.

As a rule, when installing metal-plastic windows, people order the installation of structures from specialized companies. It is believed that such work is too difficult for non-professional craftsmen. But in fact, installing windows yourself is not difficult at all. It can be done by people who do not have special knowledge and skills. It is only necessary to plan all stages of the upcoming work.

Before starting window installation, you need to carefully plan all stages of the work.

Basic methods of window installation

At the moment, installation of metal-plastic windows is carried out in one of two ways. This is an installation with and without unpacking the glass units.

The method of installing the system with unpacking implies preliminary disassembly of the structure. In this case, the holding glazing bead is dismantled, and the double-glazed windows themselves are removed from the frame. After this, the frame itself is mounted in the window opening. And only then the whole system is reassembled. In this case, to fix the window, craftsmen use anchor bolts that pass through the entire structure and secure it to the wall.

For installation without unpacking, such complex preparations are not required. The window frame is mounted on anchor plates, which fix the structure in the window opening. As a rule, when installing metal-plastic windows yourself, it is the second option that is used. Since the unpacking method has a number of significant disadvantages:

Removing the glazing bead without damaging it is quite difficult. And during installation, surface defects often arise: scratches, gouges, chips.
When unpacking, the structure loses its tightness. As a result, during further use the window often fogs up.
During dismantling, double-glazed windows often get damaged or simply break.

In addition, this installation method is much more labor-intensive than without unpacking. And as a rule, it takes much longer.

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Advantages of different installation methods

Experts advise installing metal-plastic windows yourself without first unpacking. But besides the disadvantages, installation with unpacking also has advantages. It is believed that fastening frames with anchor bolts is much more reliable than with plates. This should be resorted to in the following cases:

If the windows are installed on the upper floors of high-rise buildings (above the 13-15th floor). The fact is that such houses have a large windage. And sharp gusts of wind will quickly shake the window structure. This is especially true if the house is surrounded by low-rise buildings.
If large area windows are installed (over 4 m2). In this case, you can use a combined method, when the upper edge is attached to plates, and anchors are held on the sides of the frame.
If the walls of the house are made of unreliable or worn-out material (crumbling concrete, brick, sandstone, etc.).

In wooden houses and on the lower floors there is no point in installing windows with unpacking. The plates will securely fix the frame, and the window will serve for many years. But whatever method you consider optimal for yourself, you will need the following materials and tools:

An electric screwdriver will help securely fix all window elements.

hammer drill or drill with impact function;
electric screwdriver (hand tools do not provide sufficiently reliable fixation);
guns for polyurethane foam and silicone;
jigsaw;
set of hex keys;
rubber spatula;
sharp stationery knife.

Don’t forget to prepare measuring tools in advance: a building level and plumb line, a centimeter tape, a square. All marks that you will need to make during the work process can be made with a simple pencil or chalk.

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Installation of a metal-plastic window

When installing plastic windows, you must follow several general rules:

When foaming voids, the window must be tightly closed, since drafts can disturb the foam layer and the frame is deformed. The doors must not be opened for at least half a day after installation.
Fittings (handles and locking elements) must be installed only after the main work has been completed.
Remove the protective film only when the window is completely ready for use. Otherwise, you may damage the plastic coating.
Regardless of the type of installation you choose, the fastenings should be located along the entire perimeter of the frame. The distance between the nodes is usually 60-70 cm. But make sure that this parameter does not exceed 1 m. In this case, the first fastener is installed approximately 10 cm from the corner of the frame.

Following these simple rules will help you reliably install a metal-plastic window.

Any installation begins with markings. In this case, the “beacons” must be applied simultaneously to the opening of the window frame and to the frame itself. Be sure to check your calculations. Because sometimes the consequences of an error are very difficult to eliminate. If the window design provides for the presence of a support profile, then fastening units at the bottom of the frame are not needed.

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Fixing the frame in the window opening

First, all fasteners are installed directly on the frame. If you use an anchor plate, make sure that the screw fits into the metal profile of the structure and is securely fastened into it. Therefore, purchase specialized fasteners in advance that are designed to work with metal. They are equipped with a drill (drill) at the end of the tip, which allows them to be securely fastened in the “socket”.

If you prefer ordinary screws, then you will have to first form holes for them. In this case, make sure that the drill is 1 mm smaller than the fastener. To install metal-plastic windows, self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm are usually used. If the frame is large, then it is wiser to take larger screws (up to 12 mm).

Diagram of the location of fasteners on a metal-plastic window.

Specialized anchor plates are ideal for fastening. But some craftsmen believe that they can be replaced with standard aluminum hanging profile, which is usually used for drywall. But such a mounting unit turns out to be much less reliable, and these fasteners cost approximately the same.

Next, you need to determine the exact location of the window. Small wooden wedges of different thicknesses will help you with this. In this case, it is best to adjust the position of the window by knocking out the wedges only horizontally. If your window is not equipped with a mounting strip, then the frame must be raised to the level of the window sill, placing scraps of timber under it. Otherwise, you will not be able to fit the window sill under the frame, and you will have to butt it.

The window is aligned in the following order: