Master class - making a classic carpentry workbench. Convenient DIY accessories for power tools Guide for jigsaw

Every person who wants to take up carpentry faces the problem of choosing a tool and arranging a workplace. It seems that a very large number of tools are required for all the work. In fact, the range of tools can be minimized. If you are not going to produce furniture on a factory scale, then you can easily get by with a good jigsaw with a good file and a workbench, instead of a circular saw, miter saw, console saw, or band saw. Proposed homemade workbench for electric jigsaw will save you a lot of money and a lot of space!

A good tool, it is not expensive, but very expensive, for example, the Festool Carvex PS 400 EBQ-Plus jigsaw costs 17 thousand rubles!!! But it’s worth the money, and a jigsaw from Leroy Merlin or Obi for 400 rubles is not worth the money. Yes, for the cost of a Festula jigsaw you can buy several Chinese machines, but you buy a jigsaw for yourself to enjoy the work. Chinese machines you will buy when you organize the production of furniture so that hired workers work for them.

As for workbenches, yes, you can buy a universal folding workbench, for example wolfcraft MASTER cut 1000, in which, in addition to a jigsaw, you can install a circular saw and a router. But I don't recommend it. In advertising, I work very beautifully on it, I don’t argue that the marketers did a good job so that such a workbench was sold for 12 thousand rubles. But in fact, if you consider how much trouble the workbench causes its owners...
And if you buy, then buy a Festool MFT 3 table, for more than 30 thousand rubles. Or, if you have already run out of money on a jigsaw, make a workbench yourself.

The workbench is made of plywood; in addition to the jigsaw itself, you will need a router with a cutter, a stud and nuts.
You need to choose the smoothest plywood you can find, without knots!

Features of a homemade workbench

The workbench allows you to saw boards and blocks of wood - crosswise. In this case, it replaces the trim.

The workbench allows you to perform figured sawing. In this case, it replaces the band saw.

Saw lumber lengthwise. In this case, it replaces the circular and a set of tires.

Sawing at the required angles. Performs the work of crosscutting.

Make bevels. This is also the work of a crosscutter.

Workbench table top

The first step is to cut out the tabletop from the workpiece and cut an arc-shaped groove in it.
First you need to mark the groove. To do this, we nail the rail with a nail, and with a pencil we draw two arcs at a distance of 6 mm from each other.

Next, drill the beginning and end of the groove and carefully cut out the outline with a jigsaw.

But it’s more convenient and smoother to make the groove with a router. In this case, you don’t even need to mark the contour of the arc.
It is enough to take a straight cutter with a diameter of 6 mm, screw the router onto a sheet of hardboard or laminate, secure it with a nail in the center of the circle and make a groove.

At the next stage, you need to cut out an opening for the “guide” with a jigsaw.
Use a Forstner drill to drill into the corners.

We cut out the outline with a jigsaw.

Now we screw in the stops, and the guide with the jigsaw will rest on them.

We drill holes for rip fence.

We cut out the sides for the tabletop from plywood; they will give the tabletop rigidity, and in addition, the legs will be attached to them.
Now we glue them to the tabletop with PVA glue and press them with clamps.

Workbench legs

We glue the legs for the table from two strips of plywood.

The legs are screwed to the sides with two screws and nuts. If you plan to often disassemble/assemble the workbench, then it is better to take wing nuts instead of nuts.

The main part of the workbench is ready.

Tab

Cut out the “tab” for the jigsaw. And we mark the holes for fastening to the jigsaw sole and the cutout for the file.
A long longitudinal cut is needed when sawing when the jigsaw is installed on top, for example, with a transverse or angular saw, and a transverse cut is needed when the jigsaw is installed from below: when sawing longitudinally, when the jigsaw is installed at angles other than 90 degrees.

Let's get drilled.

Cut out the outline

Use a file to round the corners.

We adjust it to the tabletop.

We hammer “furniture driving nuts” into the countertop stops. Countersink holes for countersunk screws.

Jigsaw guide

Measure the width of the jigsaw sole.

This is the width you need to cut the workpiece to fit the jigsaw guide.

We cut out a window in the workpiece itself, such a width that when sawing at an angle, the file does not touch the guide.

Cut out and glue the sides.

You need to place stops on the edges of the stop by simply gluing rectangles of plywood.
A slider-stop for cross-cutting and angular sawing is also manufactured - circled photo.

We move on to making a stop for cross-cutting and sawing at angles.
To do this, we cut out two strips from plywood.

We cut a through groove in a narrow strip with a jigsaw. The stop pin will subsequently move along this groove.

Glue the cross stop with PVA glue.

Use a miter box to trim the angle of the stop.

Rip fence

Let's move on to making a parallel stop.
Again we need a strip of plywood. We drill a hole in it that will end with a groove for the pin.

We actually cut out the groove for the pin.

To increase the rigidity of the corner joint, we glue a rectangle of plywood to the parallel stop.

Assembly

We attach the side stop to the tabletop with a screw and nut. A special nut was used, with a “plastic contour” that prevents spontaneous unwinding. But you can use two regular nuts, using the second nut to lock the first.

Now you need to make a cross stop stop. Then set the longitudinal stop so that the angle with the cutting line is exactly 90 degrees.

Place the stop close to the cross stop and screw it to the table top.

Now we take a screw, a wooden washer and a plastic part with a washer pressed into it. In principle, you can use lamb. We assemble as shown in the photographs. And this creates a cross-stop fixation unit.

Bottom view of the cross stop fixation unit.

Now we attach the jigsaw guide to the tabletop. To do this, drill a hole through the side stop and the tabletop.

We hammer a furniture nut into the tabletops from below

We cut a piece from the pin, so long that you can press the part with the thickness allowed for sawing with your jigsaw.

We screw a nut pressed into plastic onto the stud and fix it with super glue. We have a bolt that is easy to tighten or unscrew by hand.

To prevent the part from slipping during operation, strips of thin felt or other non-slip fabric are glued to the bottom of the jigsaw guide.

Now you can cut across and at an angle.

And the parallel stop allows you to cut accurately along.

To safely work with a jigsaw upside down on a tabletop, when access to the jigsaw switch is difficult, it would be good to install an additional switch. And connect the jigsaw to the electrical network through the switch.

Related posts in this category.

Today, a variety of power tools are used for home repairs and work on suburban areas. Special auxiliary devices and accessories are produced for them, many of them can be made with your own hands. It is better to purchase complex technical devices ready-made, but you can make workbenches, router tables, attachments and much more yourself. Homemade devices for power tools can be adjusted to the required conditions.

Classification of accessories for power tools

They are usually classified into the following groups:

1. Tools and attachments for processing. These are hand-held devices, which include grinding attachments and bars for grinders and drills.
2. Devices that are designed to change position, set a specific cutting angle, drill, etc. These are supporting surfaces, templates, guides, etc. They can take different appearance, often made of metal or wood.
3. Dust removal devices. Such devices are used to remove sawdust, dust, and shavings from the working surface. It is not so difficult to make such devices yourself; usually, existing ventilation holes on the equipment are used for fastening.
4. You assemble grinding attachments, blocks or bars designed for surface treatment with your own hands. For example, for polishing wooden surface or cleaning metal, you can use a wooden plate with a handle on top. Sandpaper of the required grain size is attached to its working side. The platform can have any shape, it is only important to choose the right grinding material.

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Milling tables

There are various accessories for power tools, but sometimes they have overall dimensions, as is the case with milling machines and saws. It is recommended to assemble a good-quality table that will have everything you need for comfortable and safe work. The most simple option is a milling table made in the form of a large board with a hole for a router and a guide board. The dimensions of the worktop can be different, it all depends on what kind of work will be performed. A more advanced option is a table with legs of the required height. The working and guide boards are made from a sheet of chipboard. A vice, clamps, etc. may be provided on the surface. It is best to make the table legs removable and provide a spare set.

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Workbenches for power tools

To work with many tools, you need to organize your workspace. A small, compact and multifunctional workbench can be indispensable for a home workshop or garage. Making it yourself is not so difficult; you just need to clearly define for what functions it is needed. It is best to make a workbench that can be used at any height, including on a table.

Figure 1. Basic elements of a workbench.

Then the power tool can be conveniently positioned and its position can be changed if necessary. For work, it is recommended to use any hard wood; a popular material is maple, which is easy to process and yet has the necessary hardness and strength.

To fix it on the table, you can attach comfortable legs or clamps to the device.

A workbench requires a vice; they are often used in work. An example of the main elements of a workbench is shown in Fig. 1.

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Drill attachments

A drill may require a variety of attachments during operation. They make your work easier, simpler, more convenient and faster. A large number of homemade products are used for drills, which many manufacturers today have taken as the basis for developing special kits. The list of devices that you can make with your own hands is large.

Accessories for power tools:

1. Limit attachments. During repairs and construction work it is necessary to prepare holes of the required diameter to a strictly specified depth. This is why a fairly simple nozzle is used, which consists of 3 parts. You can do it yourself, and the hole parameters can be easily and quickly changed if necessary. The first part of the device is a holding clamp; it is placed directly on the tool body. This clamp has 2 holes; guide stops in the form of 6 mm metal rods are inserted into them. The rods are bent if necessary. During operation, the required drill angle is set to prepare holes with the specified parameters.
2. Circle cutters are a special device that looks like a large compass. Nozzles are assembled from metal rods. The vertical part acts as a stop; a special thickening is made at its end. A horizontal part is attached to the vertical part, on one side of which a comfortable handle is made, and on the other side a ring is welded. For the device, it is necessary to provide the diameter of the fastening ring so that the drill does not slip out and is held tightly in it during operation. It is best to glue a rubber ring inside, which will help make the fixation more reliable.

Before this, the jigsaw was used only in rough cutting areas or for cutting sheet material. I worked with large saws several times and each time I wondered why they were needed at all, if they were always taken away decently. But if you place a jigsaw on a table, its functionality increases significantly. It turns out that a jigsaw can replace (as far as possible) a circular saw, a band saw, grinding machine for delicate work. I saw the design on a blog markellov , for which I thank him very much! I placed my version on a folding workbench. Table size 36x36 cm. The table itself is made of 12 mm plywood. The machine is completely disassembled and stored in a cabinet. The guide is fixed with 2 wing screws.

Blocks under the table for fixing the entire device to the workbench, and also allow you to place fasteners for the upper guide support.

The jigsaw is fixed to the table with just one screw. To do this, I chose a quarter of the thickness of the platform in an oak block. In the other block, the quarter was made at an angle of more than 90 degrees and the platform fits into it with a wedge, so displacement during work in all 4 directions is excluded.

I saw it on the net Incredible quality of workmanship table, but for this you need to try very, very hard. There are also ready The bourgeoisie has a solution, but as I understand it, this is most likely for some very minor work. The top guide bracket is height adjustable to accommodate different blades. I thought for a long time about how to make it with a high degree of rigidity and at the same time avoid its bulkiness. Since the device itself does not have side walls that could serve as a support for the bracket, I had to tinker a little. There is a pine block in the center, a T-shaped steel profile is screwed to it and the whole thing is covered with 12 mm plywood, which provides rigidity to the upper guide. This is what ended up happening.

A unit for fixing the edge of the blade, like in a band saw, allows you to work with long blades without moving to the side. The option with bearings initially seemed to me the most workable, but then I still chose the option with oak guides. On wide blades like band saws, the use of bearings is more justified, but here it is more convenient to adjust the gap between the blades by moving inserts like these.

The result is a fairly compact machine for small sawing jobs. Now you can cut cabrioles too. The height of the cut depends on the length of the blade.

P.S.: MAIN, what needs to be taken into account when working with a jigsaw in this position is the tossing of the part during operation, since the saw teeth in this case “look” up. It is necessary to fix the part from above, like in sewing machines. In my case, the bracket lowers and the lower part of the guide assembly prevents the workpiece from jumping. Perhaps over time I will make a fixing foot.

Manual power tool very popular both among amateurs and among professionals due to its obvious advantages, namely:

• comparative cheapness and availability;
• compactness;
• mobility.

Reverse side of these unconditional advantages is the presence of such shortcomings, How:

• relatively small continuous operation time;
• small achievable accuracy;
• insufficient quality of processing.

Obviously, these shortcomings are free professional stationary solutions - machines and machines on massive frames. As a result, they are quite not cheap, but the main thing is that they need to be placed somewhere. What to do if it is not possible to equip workshop, but I want to improve quality works? This question is asked by many of those who are passionate about a serious hobby, and even just beginners. masters

In our article we will talk about decision, allowing to eliminate known shortcomings manual jigsaw.

Advantages of a tabletop jigsaw

The general ones discussed above flaws hand power tools are fully inherent and jigsaw.

Its main advantage is mobility – involves exclusively manual movements and fixation tool. That is, in reality it turns out that:

1. Very difficult to do smooth, a clear cut: the slightest extra movement - and a visible flaw appears in the cutting line. Those included in the kit guides do not save due to their insufficient rigidity;
2. Corner tilt The saw blade in relation to the workpiece is actually not controlled in any way. And even in the simplest case of direct cutting, when the blade perpendicular jigsaw sole, the result may disappoint. There are at least two reasons:
   • Saw blade – elastic and can bend during the cutting process, the free edge of the file is not limited by anything;
   • On affordable (read: cheap) models, it’s quite often ideal direct the angle between the file and the sole is difficult reach due to the very design of the cheap stamped grounds.

Interesting Mark, what, say, American craftsmen use manual jigsaw is quite rare. For example, when you need cut opening in the kitchen countertop for installation sinks In other cases, they prefer to use stationary band saws of various sizes. Such saws are completely devoid of some disadvantages (mentioned above), and are fully endowed with others: dimensions, weight and... price.

To summarize above, we can confidently conclude that, in some way securing jigsaw on the workbench, it is possible to a certain extent win some of its shortcomings. And if you provide guides rollers for free edge canvases files, you can get a completely even cut. And clean - with the correct selection of the file itself.

Therefore, special jigsaw table will significantly improve the quality of work with this tool.

Of course, you shouldn’t think that in this way you can get “cheaply” full-fledged tape saw. But more on that a little later, now – briefly about what will be needed for production.

Materials and tools

Materials can be used from those available at hand. I would just like to note that the working surface(“countertop”) must be level and sufficiently tough, Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to keep the following points in mind:

• Can be used plywood, however, thin (less than 12 mm) plywood is susceptible to warping, and it’s not a fact that the existing piece will be quite even.
  Waterproof would be preferable laminated(“formwork”) plywood thickness from 12 mm.
• If speak about ( particle boards), then in general, the thicker they are, the better - the more rigid. Ideally - a piece quality laminated kitchen table tops or "post-forming".
  Disadvantages: less reliability fastenings tool, you need to take a more responsible approach to the choice of fasteners.
  From advantages, perhaps the main thing is accessibility and simplicity: you can order all set parts according to their dimensions in any furniture workshop. Thickness It’s better to take not the standard 16 mm, but a larger one (for example, 22 mm).
• Metal its properties are almost perfect, but in everyday life it is quite difficult to find a piece of suitable size, polished and smooth. In addition, making the necessary holes in it is somewhat more labor-intensive, then it is wise to use drilling machine.

Set of necessary tool will depend on the selected materials, but in general it is approximate scroll something like this:

• pencil, roulette or a ruler, a carpenter's square - for marking;
• square will also be useful at the stage final assembly and settings;
• screwdrivers and nuts keys according to the selected fastener;
• screwdriver or drill, drills for fasteners, self-tapping screws (screws).

In addition, you will need rectangular metal bracket, two identical bearing and fasteners. Actually myself jigsaw will also come in handy.

Manufacturing stages

Regardless of the chosen material necessary:

• manufacture base and connect to the working surface with holes for attaching the sole of the tool;
• make a system brackets for the upper saw blade guide;
• collect and adjust table.

Base and work surface

Dimensions grounds are selected based on dimensions available jigsaw and are indicated approximately.
The dimensions of the working surface are also indicated approximately, from the bracket mounting side it mounted flush with the base, on the other three sides made small projection for ease of fastening rigging(clamps, stops, etc.).

Device bracket with guide bearings is clear from the figure.
Sizes can be chosen individually, but some Necessarily need to be kept in mind.

which limit the movement of the file to the side, you need pick up based on the size of the files you plan to use. Width the bearing itself (in reference books it is indicated by the letter IN) must not be larger than the width files, so as not to dull its teeth.

So, for example, if width metal file blades (T123X, T118A) usually more than 5 mm, then they will be suitable bearings with size B 4–5 mm, for example:

Wherein prefer follows the model with the letters ZZ, 2RS as the most protected from exposure to dust, which will certainly occur during the cutting process.

Saw blades tree, on the contrary, they can be narrow (T244D about 3.5 mm) and very narrow (T119BO about 3 mm, which can be used in our case). As an option - bearing 100093 (aka 693, 3 x 8 x 3 mm).

Selected bearing fastener: M3 or M4 screws, nuts (preferably “self-locking” with nylon insert that prevents spontaneous unscrewing).

Distance between axes bearings are also calculated based on the size of the files, thickness canvases may be within from 0.9 to 1.7 mm.

For example, thickness blade T244D is 1.25 mm, and T123X, T118A - 1 mm. It is better to round in big side.

Assembly and adjustment

Bracket can be secure in the following way

This method of fastening will make it possible adjust and the height of the guide bearings in accordance with the length of the saw, and (using a square) perpendicularity the saw itself relative to the work table.

As mentioned above, you shouldn’t delude yourself - even though it’s no longer easy jigsaw, but still not a band saw. Here are some tips:

• • In a band saw movement saw blade occurs only in one direction – top down, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces.
    It is not possible for the workpiece to explode upward, since the pendulum of the jigsaw moves and returnable movement.
    Therefore, the workpiece needs to be well press to the working surface of the table and the most important thing is to feed (move) the workpiece as much as possible slower.

Note! More revs and less feed are much better than the other way around.

• When working with a jigsaw (with or without a table) it is useful to remember that move jigsaw files are usually about 15–20 mm, You need to read this value for your instrument in the instructions or determine it yourself. Material thicker than this size should only be sawed with divorce teeth Otherwise shavings will not be completely removed, which can lead to overheating and jamming of the canvas.
• Between the working surface of the table and sole jigsaw can lay a sheet of dense rubber, Having previously made a cut for the file. Assemble the table and let the canvas work a little idle, so that the canvas “grinds” to the slot in the rubber. This will protect moving units of an inverted jigsaw from a large number sawdust, for which it is not designed, because in normal mode the tool designers clearly did not count on such a number of them.
• Protective glasses - necessary. You also need to organize the device to be turned on via pedal or provide another way instant turning off the tool. But this is a topic for another article.
• Do not be afraid creatively think and improve your tools, because any idea - just a starting point for creativity, and universal there are no solutions.

For more information on making a jigsaw table, see video:

Today I will tell you how to make a stand for a jigsaw, it is easy to make and convenient to use, it can be used both when working with a jigsaw and for storing it. Do-it-yourselfers who often work with a jigsaw know that this tool is very inconvenient to place on a workbench or table, as well as to take it for further work due to the file protruding from the base, which can break if you place the jigsaw in the wrong way, and you also experience inconvenience when you have to turn the hand inside out to pick up or put down the tool. However, this idea of ​​a stand is not always necessary, since not everyone works with a jigsaw for a large amount of time, but periodically, for this reason you can endure all the inconveniences. But if the amount of work is large or your jigsaw is quite powerful and heavy, then using it is also not always convenient and easy, and this leads to increased hand fatigue, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

In order to make a homemade comfortable stand we will need:
* A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long.
* Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.
* Pencil, tape measure and square.
* Shilo.
* Jigsaw with a file for curved cutting.
* Screwdriver and metal drill with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm.
* Wood crown with a diameter of 28 mm.
* Figured bit RN2 for tightening screws.
* A 20mm wrench that will help you tighten and unscrew the nuts on your wood hole saw.
* Sandpaper.

Preliminary calculations and consideration of the convenience of the product.
First, you need to build a drawing of the future part, we do this in the 3D compass program, one important point can be seen from the drawing, that the idea used here is to make a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would be possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. But the point is that it is much more convenient and faster to insert a file into the wedge-shaped slot while installing the jigsaw on the stand, which also does not require any aiming for this. The relationship here is direct: the wider the wedge of the slot at the base, the more convenient it is to install the jigsaw. Also, if you make a wedge that is too wide at the base, which is wider than the jigsaw slide, then the stability of the jigsaw will be much lower, which can cause it to tip over. In this regard, it is more profitable to choose the best option, that is, make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to place the jigsaw on the stand without losing the reliability of its stability.

The author chose the size of the width of the base of the slot at his own discretion, which became equal to about 78 mm. In reality, this is quite enough to conveniently place the jigsaw on the stand without fear of it falling back. If you set yourself such an idea, then select the specified size in the drawings accordingly, comparing it with the width of the slide of your jigsaw.

The next important point is the front and back of the stand, made in a semicircle. The purpose of this particular shape is the best aesthetic appearance, so if you want to focus on this, you can easily make the shape of the stand rectangular.

Well, we’ve sorted out the main nuances, now let’s begin the assembly process.
Step one.
Before picking up the tool, we need to draw the markings of the workpiece according to the drawing. Considering that the length of our future stand will be only 20 cm, then to cut it out it is necessary to take a little more (15-20 cm), and this is done so that the workpiece can be firmly fixed for further processing.

To show curved surfaces on a workpiece with a pencil, take any round object of large diameter. In this case, it is a plastic jar for storing small items.

Step two.
We fix the workpiece in the clamps and cut a hole in it with a hole saw or, as it is called, a crown clamped in a screwdriver chuck.

Step three.
This stand will have special legs, in order to be at the maximum height, which will prevent the jigsaw file from breaking on the surface, we drill blind holes for these legs.

Step four.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out the drawn wedge along the contour and then cut out the excess parts of the stand. Working with a jigsaw is quite dangerous, so be careful and use safety precautions such as protective gloves and glasses.

Step five.
We arm ourselves with sandpaper and grind the surface to a smooth state, which should not have burrs or depressions, after which we tighten the screws into the smooth surface of the workpiece; in this case, they serve as legs.

On this homemade stand ready, we put a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand stable, we adjust the screws, which are also the legs.