home Heating systems How to make emergency lighting yourself. DIY emergency lighting - halogen, LED lamps and lamps

How to make emergency lighting yourself. DIY emergency lighting - halogen, LED lamps and lamps

Preference should be given to electronic transformers in a metal case, since they heat up during operation, and plastic does not dissipate heat well.

In the bathroom, jacuzzi, kitchen or for lighting, only lamps with 12 V lamps can be installed - this is a safety requirement. Moreover, luminaires with 12 V lamps can be retrofitted for emergency lighting in case of any problems with the power supply. But more on that a little later.

Summarize.

So, although halogen lamps have high light output, they become very hot during operation. The electronic transformer also gets hot. The energy consumption of halogen lamps is quite significant, and over time, you may want to replace halogen lamps with LED lamps.

LED lamps with comparable brightness consume 10-15 times less electricity. They are available in the same housings as halogen lamps. LED lamps, like halogen lamps, have different operating voltages: 12 V and 220 V.

Preference should be given to 12 V LED lamps, since 220 V lamps have a simple conversion circuit with a quenching capacitor, which, when the lamp is turned on (until the capacitor is charged), passes everything mains voltage to LEDs. Such a lamp, if turned on frequently, will not be able to work out even half of the resource declared by the manufacturer (about 30,000 hours).

Another advantage of LED lamps with an operating voltage of 12 V is that such lamps are available in different colors: red, green, yellow and blue. Using these lamps for illumination or at home, you can create unusual romantic lighting.

The color of the glow (shades of white) for conventional LED lamps is different: from white with a yellow tint to white with a bluish tint (cool white). It all depends on the so-called color temperature, which is measured in degrees Kelvin.

This temperature is indicated both on the lamp itself and on the packaging. The most optimal color for everyday use is white with yellow honey fungus. This color corresponds to a temperature of approximately 3000 K. Pure white (4500 K) and cool white (6000 K) can cause fatigue and irritation, so lamps with this color temperature are not recommended for use in household lighting fixtures.

The luminous flux of LED lamps varies widely - from 100 lm to 450 lm and depends on the number of LEDs, as well as their type. Lamps with bright SMD LEDs are more common. In the last few years, lamps with super-bright LEDs have appeared.

The number of LEDs in 12 V lamps is a multiple of 3 (3, 9, 12, 15, 18, etc.). The power consumed by such lamps does not exceed 3.5 W and most often lies in the range of 1.5-2 W. Thus, 50-75 LED lamps can be connected to one 100 W transformer.

However, not all so simple. If you replace all the halogen lamps with LED lamps and turn on the lights, you will be disappointed - the lamps will not glow (photo 2). The reason for this strange behavior is that the electronic transformer implements current feedback, and to run the transformer requires a load that LED lamps cannot provide.

Therefore, after replacing halogen lamps with LED lamps, you will have to change the electronic transformer - this is what both the electrician and the sales assistant in the store will advise. Converters (current sources) for powering LED lamps are almost 10 times more expensive than electronic transformers with comparable power and differ from them in size (photo 3).

But there is one fairly simple way to get it back up and running. electronic transformer and power LED lamps from it: it is enough to connect one halogen lamp with a power of about 15 W in parallel with the LED lamps. That's all! Any interference in electronic circuit the transformer itself is not required.

Do-it-yourself emergency lighting (in case of a power outage) - diagrams

And now about how to provide emergency lighting when the mains power is cut off. The simplest method - connecting a battery in parallel to the transformer - will not lead to the desired results, since the battery will simply short-circuit through the electronic transformer. To avoid a short circuit, some kind of decoupling must be installed. In our case, diodes will serve as such decoupling.

The current consumed by one LED lamp is in the range of 0.1-0.15 A, the supply voltage is 12 V. The frequency with which the electronic transformer operates is 35 kHz. Almost any high-frequency diode with a reverse voltage of at least 40 V and a forward current of 0.2 A or higher is suitable as such a barrier element - for example, 1N5819, BY398 or SF11-SF16 or others with similar characteristics.

Unfortunately, this list does not include domestic diodes, since they are very rarely found on sale, and their price is incomparably high.

Diodes have a stripe on the body corresponding to the negative terminal (photo 4). The diodes must be turned on so that the negative from the electronic transformer and the negative from the battery are connected at a common point.

Diodes can be placed directly on the terminal block (photo 5). Power from the battery is not supplied to all lamps, but to half of their total number. Such moderate illumination will not create any particular inconvenience and will allow rational use of battery power.

It is permissible to use only sealed gel acid batteries indoors (photo 6). If a car battery is selected, it should be placed in a storage area, such as a basement, and maintained at the temperature and humidity recommended by the battery manufacturer. Of course, it should be recharged periodically to ensure it is always in working order.

Two cables should be laid to the part of the luminaires that will play the role of emergency ones: one cable supplies power from a transformer, the other from a battery (Fig. 1). While the electronic transformer is operating, due to reverse bias, the diode coming from the battery is closed.

But as soon as the mains voltage disappears, the diode connected to the battery opens, and some of the lamps continue to work.

Such a simple circuit has one drawback: if you turn off the lights, power to the lamps will come from the battery. That is why another switch is required - from the battery (Fig. 2).

Lighting can be made completely autonomous by installing LED lamps and connecting them to a battery.

The battery can be charged from a windmill, solar battery or a gasoline electric generator. For comfortable lighting of one room, 5 to 10 LED lamps are needed.

Thus, to illuminate buildings located far from power lines, for example, country houses, a power of about 30 W will be required. It will be provided during the day by one car battery with a capacity of 55 Ah.

Photo for article: Necessary equipment and emergency lighting schemes

The electronic transformer, with its small dimensions (63x42x28 mm) and weight (less than 100 g), has a power of more than 100 W.

When connecting LED lamps to an electronic transformer, they do not light up because the transformer does not switch to operating mode.
Current source for powering LED lamps.
The negative terminal of the diode is marked with a solid stripe on the housing.
Connecting diodes to the lamp.

Rice. 1. Isolation of battery and electronic transformer.
Rice. 2. General scheme emergency lighting.

L1 – halogen lamp 15-30 W. LED 1 – LEDNN – LED lamps for main lighting. LED2 – LED11 – LED emergency lighting lamps. B1.B2 - mains and battery switches - respectively.

Impact led lamp 220V smart ic chip no need driver...

Emergency lighting is lighting that turns on when the work lighting power supply system is damaged or disconnected. Emergency lighting provides minimal the necessary conditions lighting to complete indoor work. Emergency lighting includes evacuation and backup lighting, as well as lighting of high-risk industrial areas.

In my case, emergency lighting is necessary to complete the job. The boiler room uses steam boilers to provide consumers with heat and hot water.

Heating the coolant and hot water occurs using steam boilers.

And if there is a power outage at night, then it is necessary to complete the production cycle. Namely, the operator must see everything to perform these works necessary equipment. This is why emergency lighting is needed.

From my predecessor, I received emergency lighting that was far from effective. It consisted of alkaline batteries born in 1959, small Charger, which provided uninterrupted operation two 12 V light bulbs at full intensity for 5-10 minutes. It was necessary to either modify this unit or do something new.

From everything I had at hand, I did the following. I inspected an old 2nd magnitude starter and made a charger. Increased the number of lamps to seven. I tried to make the length of the line as short as possible. I replaced alkaline batteries with used car batteries. I used an old but serviceable ammeter with the ability to see the voltage parameter.

The operating principle is as follows: the working state of the post is when magnetic switch is in the on state. In this mode, the battery is constantly recharged at a low current, which is considered effective. When there is a power outage, the magnetic starter is switched off and the emergency lighting bulbs are turned on through normally closed block contacts.

When power is applied, the starter is locked, turning off the emergency lighting bulbs and enabling battery charging. On the body of the charger I installed a toggle switch with the ability to turn off recharging. To save battery resources, I installed three switches with the ability to turn off some section. Very simple design and the scheme has proven itself very well and has been working flawlessly for several years. When servicing, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the battery terminal contacts (they are oxidizing) and the electrolyte level.

Below I post a few pictures of my post - automatic emergency lighting. If there is interest in this publication, I will post the diagram. Maybe someone will find the advice from this article useful. There are practically no costs, but of course there is convenience. The circuit contains 7 12 V bulbs with a power of 25 W. To increase operating time, some of the light bulbs can be turned off.

The corner of the emergency lighting post takes up very little space.

A charger and a device for measuring charge current and a voltmeter located at the post.

This is what the lamps look like. The lamp indicates "Emergency lighting"

Emergency lighting schemes for different premises differ significantly. This depends on their size, the power of the emergency lighting system and, in fact, the requirements for the lighting itself. Therefore, at the moment there is a rich variety of schemes that allow solving problems of any complexity and with varying levels of investment.

Where should emergency lighting be installed, and what are the requirements for it?

Before talking about schemes and areas of application, let's look at the questions of where this emergency lighting should be. In addition, you should definitely understand the issue of standards for emergency lighting. All this is spelled out in detail in SNiP 05/23/95, and in our article we will only try to in simple language explain all these requirements.

Premises that must have emergency lighting

Emergency lighting is divided into two main types - evacuation and safety lighting. The first should ensure the safe movement of people in emergency situations, and the second should ensure a minimum level of illumination in areas where critical infrastructure is managed.

	Based on this, emergency lighting must be implemented in heating points, electrical stations and substations, pumping stations water supply and disposal, ventilation rooms and control points for air conditioning systems, if disruption of the operation of these facilities could lead to the shutdown of industrial or residential areas.
	It is mandatory that safety lighting be installed in areas where interruption of work could lead to explosions or fires. And even if stopping work in a certain room leads to long-term downtime of the entire technological chain, then it is necessary to equip them with safety lighting.
	There should be emergency lighting in all industrial buildings no natural light. In addition, it must be installed in all main passages if more than 50 people will move along them during evacuation. For auxiliary premises this norm is lower and amounts to 100 people.
	It is mandatory that evacuation lighting should be in a building with 6 or more floors, in medical and children's institutions. For dormitories, it should be equipped when the length of the corridors is more than 25 meters, or when more than 50 people live in it.
	In retail premises, the norm for installing such lighting is an area of 90 m2. In addition, evacuation lighting should be installed above the cash registers
	This type of emergency lighting should be created in sports, bathing, medical and preventive premises, repair shops, locker rooms, kitchens and other facilities public buildings. It should be installed in assembly and conference halls with more than 100 seats.

Emergency lighting requirements

Now let's talk about the requirements that regulations impose on emergency lighting. Moreover, depending on the type of emergency lighting, these requirements differ quite strikingly.

Let's start our conversation with security coverage. As the instructions say, it should provide a minimum illumination of 5% of the normal minimum illumination. For example, we have a room in which the minimum illumination level is 200 lux. Accordingly, the minimum standard of security lighting should be at least 10 lux.

Note! In all cases, the minimum standard of security lighting should be at least 2 lux inside buildings. On the territory of the enterprise this norm is 1 lux.

But with evacuation lighting, everything is a little more complicated. And this is not due to the minimum illumination standard, which for indoor areas is 0.5 lux, and for outdoor areas 0.2 lux, but with the rules for placing the lanterns themselves.
Evacuation lighting should be located every 25 meters along the evacuation route. In addition, they must be at every turn and in front of every door.
But the fact is that the standards prohibit a difference between the most and least illuminated areas of more than 1 to 40. This requirement often determines the use of lamps with the most diffused light, as well as a reduction in the distances between lamps.

Separately, it is worth noting the lamps that should be used for emergency lighting systems. The fact is that regulations prohibit the use of sodium, xenon, DRL and metal halide lamps, which take a long time to light up and may go out during operation.

Schemes for emergency lighting systems

Having an idea of the types and requirements for these lighting systems, we can talk about the circuits themselves. At the moment, a fairly large number of them have been proposed, and there are schemes both for a fairly large lighting network and for systems with a small number of lamps.

Emergency lighting power supply circuit from a second power source

The most simple circuit From a technical point of view, emergency lighting networks are powered by an independent power supply. But let's be honest, this scheme is used quite rarely due to the fact that in purely technical specifications economic feasibility intervenes.

The cost of one more connection to electrical network in many cases forces one to abandon this option. Meanwhile, it is one of the most convenient.

The essence of this option comes down to the following. A room or group of rooms has one main power supply from a public electrical network. To connect emergency lighting, another supply line is supplied to the room. The main condition for this line is that it is powered from another source - this may be another bus system at the supply substation or another substation altogether.
The backup power line may have a lower power rating. The main thing is that it is enough to power the entire emergency lighting network and other electrical equipment connected to it.

In the future, there are two options:

Option number one- this is when all electrical equipment in the room is powered from the main line in normal mode. When the voltage on the main line disappears, the emergency lighting network begins to receive power from the backup line.

Second option- this is when the emergency lighting lines are constantly powered from a backup line, and the emergency lighting network operates constantly, regardless of the presence of the main power supply. In this case, it is necessary to be able to connect the emergency lighting network to the main line to carry out repairs and troubleshoot problems on the backup line.

Powered by diesel generator

But as we have already mentioned, the price of the option with connecting two independent lines is not always within reasonable limits. Therefore, sometimes it’s easier to do it yourself and create standalone source feeding yourself. This can be a gasoline, gas or diesel generator.

Such a generator can be installed in a special room. In addition, it will require a fuel storage container. Usually its volume is taken to be sufficient for an hour of generator operation, unless otherwise provided by the requirements for your premises. Connecting the generator will allow fuel to be supplied from the tank directly to the engine. The autostart system will allow you to turn on the generator without your participation.
So, for this circuit, under normal conditions, all power is taken from the main line. When the voltage on it disappears, the diesel generator is switched on. It supplies power to the emergency lighting network.
But there are a few buts here. In order to start the generator, you need special automation, and it is powered from the electrical network. But if the power has already disappeared, how will the automation work?

There are several options for this. The simplest and cheapest option is to use a special capacitor, which can easily store a sufficient amount of electricity for a single turn-on command.
But if the generator does not turn on the first time, then it can only be turned on manually. This is not very convenient, especially in emergency situations. Therefore, they often additionally purchase a small battery that will ensure the operation of the emergency automation system.

Power schemes using batteries

In general, the option using batteries is one of the most common. After all, implementing it yourself is quite simple and, in some cases, it is a little cheaper.

Batteries electrical energy allow you to accumulate and store energy. But if a variable flows in our network electricity, then the battery can only operate with direct current. In this regard, they require the installation of special devices - inverters, which convert alternating current into direct current and vice versa.

There are several options for schemes using batteries to power the emergency network:

Option number one- this is when the emergency lighting network is powered by an inverter, and a battery is connected to the same network. In normal mode, the inverter is connected to the network alternating current. Its DC output circuits are connected to the DC switchboard (DCB). During normal operation, it powers all luminaires connected to the emergency lighting network and recharges the battery, compensating for self-discharge of the battery.

When the AC voltage disappears, the inverter stops working. All power to the emergency lighting network is supplied by the battery, which must ensure its operation for at least half an hour or another period of time.

Note! For all schemes when using a battery, its capacity must be selected in accordance with the total power consumption. In this case, the battery itself must be periodically subjected to control charges and discharges to check it.

Second option- this is when the inverter is connected directly to the battery. All emergency lighting is powered by battery. The inverter constantly recharges the battery, which ensures its constant capacity. When the AC power is turned off, the inverter turns off and the emergency network is powered only by the battery, as in the video.
Third option- this is when the inverter is connected to the battery, and the emergency lighting is powered by the battery, but it is constantly turned off. Only when the main source voltage disappears is the emergency lighting network disconnected from the main source and connected to battery power.

But the fact is that the above circuits can only power individual species lamps capable of operating on direct current. But motors and some types of lamps cannot operate on direct current. To power them, it is possible to install an additional inverter in the circuit of the second and third options. Only now will he transform D.C. into variable. As a result, we get alternating current at the output from the battery.

Lamps with built-in battery

But this is not always necessary complex circuit, and emergency lighting must be powered specifically from individual lighting groups. For small buildings, for which up to 50 lamps are sufficient, it is much more advisable to use lamps with a built-in battery.

The essence of this scheme is as follows. You purchase special lamps with a built-in battery. This lamp already has a built-in inverter that recharges the battery. Under normal conditions, it is powered by AC power. When the power goes out, it disconnects from the AC mains and starts running on battery power. Its operating time usually does not exceed 3 hours.
Lamps can be different types. Some are constantly running on battery power and the inverter recharges it. Others operate constantly on AC power, and the battery only turns on in emergency modes.
There are luminaires with one or more lamps powered by AC power and one or more lamps powered by a battery. This allows you to choose a lamp in exact accordance with your wishes and requirements.

Such lamps can also be divided into groups according to the location of the battery installation. Some have a remote battery that is hidden under suspended ceilings, others have a battery that is built into the lamp itself.
The warranty period for such lamps is usually 10-15 years. But in reality, this time is limited by the battery life. Therefore, after replacing it with a new one, the lamp can work for a longer period.

Conclusion

Emergency lighting and its connection diagram have many options. However, it is not at all necessary to use only one of them. Options with a combination of several on one object are quite possible. various types. This allows for optimal power supply to the entire emergency network and minimal capital investment.

They brought a lamp ( Fig.1), asked to see if anything could be done to make it work. There is only one lamp in the housing, it does not respond to switch switching, and when powered from the mains there is no reaction either. There are no instructions, no diagram... Okay, I'm going online to look for at least some information... Yeah, there's a photo and a description - this model has thin fluorescent lamps T5 is marked 886; the passport for the lamp states that it is designed to provide emergency and backup lighting in the event of a power outage and is capable of maintaining autonomous mode from an internal sealed 6 V 1.6 A/h battery (this is almost a quote). It turns out that it does not work from a 220 V network, the network only recharges the battery and, one must assume that if the battery is completely discharged, there will be no lighting. I connect the lamp to the network and leave it on charge for the evening and night.

The next morning, the red "CHARGE" LED on the switch panel began to glow. But weakly - if you don’t look closely, it’s almost not noticeable. More than 10 hours have passed since the start of charging and, theoretically, it should burn much brighter. Although, perhaps, the lamp has some kind of system for turning off the charging current with an indication - no charge, no glow. I flicked the switch left and right, it didn’t light up. I unplug it, click it and it doesn’t light up.

I'm starting to disassemble the lamp. First I remove the light diffuser to inspect the lamp. The filaments are intact, the phosphor at both ends of the lamp has small ring darkening ( Fig.2).

Fig.2

I put the diffuser in place, remove the back cover ( Fig.3) and take out the “insides” ( Fig.4).

Fig.3

Fig.4

All wiring ( Fig.5) and I sketch all the places where the conductors are soldered to the printed circuit board ( Fig.6) and sign with a marker directly on the board - visible on Figure 4.

Fig.5

Fig.6

Since the board contains a transformer with a ferrite core, the circuit is most likely a low-voltage converter DC voltage into high voltage alternating. There are no starters or chokes visible in the power supply circuits of the lamps; it seems that the lamps simply “ignite” during a high-voltage “breakdown” of the gas.

On the board you can see places where the green varnish has bulged, but the copper foil underneath is not deformed, which means that the green varnish fell off not due to overheating, but just like that. Fresh soldering is visible just in the places where the conductors going to the lamps are connected, but judging by the holes on the board, the conductors were soldered correctly. The swollen one is also noticeable electrolytic capacitor (Fig.7). I changed it right away, I couldn’t find the 220 µF/16 V rating, so I set it to 330 µF/25 V and soldered a 0.1 µF ceramic to its terminals on the print side. The capacitor is located near the transformer and is almost certainly connected to pulse currents (otherwise it would not “float”) and installing an additional ceramic capacitor that has lower reactance for pulse currents will make it easier to operate in the future.

Fig.7

Measuring the voltage at the battery terminals was not encouraging - the potential was slightly less than 3 V. I unsoldered the battery, connected the conductors to laboratory block power supply with the voltage set to 6.5 V. I clicked the switch, no reaction. I turned on the oscilloscope, poked the probe into different places on the board and, of course, into the legs of the low-voltage windings of the transformer - there was no generation anywhere. This means that we need to deal with the integrity of the parts. I turned everything off and unsoldered all the wires from the printed circuit board ( Fig.8 And Fig.9) – they will still fall off if the board is turned over multiple times.

Fig.8

Fig.9

On Figure 10 the marking “MD886” is visible. The numbers match the lamp markings, the letters do not. Nevermind.

Fig.10

A tester test of all semiconductor parts revealed a “dead” transistor (short circuit between the base and collector). A radiator is screwed to the transistor and it is logical to assume that it is the power switching element in the converter (transistor, not a radiator). The markings are not familiar, but search engines for the query “transistor 882” returned information on 2SD882. Well, okay, so be it.

I couldn’t find such a transistor at home, I read the datasheets and installed our own, Soviet KT972 ( Fig.11). I understand that the replacement is not entirely equivalent (ours is composite), however, after returning all the wires to their place, the circuit worked. The lamp lit up, but not very brightly. Although, perhaps, this is how a 6-watt fluorescent tube should shine with this method of igniting it. Changing the supply voltage in the range from 7 V to 5 V did not have much effect on the brightness, but, probably, the frequency of the converter changed, since a quiet whistle appeared in the transformer. The transistor is warm, but not hot.

Fig.11

While I was ringing the parts “for integrity”, I simultaneously sketched their connection ( Fig.12). Then I redrew it all in a normal “readable” form and got a diagram ( Fig.13) (the indicated voltages were measured and marked during the next battery charging after the lamp was repaired).

Fig.12

Fig.13

The circuit can be roughly divided into two parts - one, high-voltage, is responsible for charging the battery when the lamp is connected to a 220 V network, the other is converter, powered only by the battery and works only when 220 V is not supplied to the lamp.

On Figure 13 it can be seen that the alternating mains voltage passes through the current-limiting capacitor C1 and is supplied to the diode rectifier bridge VD1...VD4. Rectified voltage ripples are smoothed out by capacitor C2. The level of this voltage mainly depends on how charged the Bat1 battery is. Since its charging current passes through the diode VD6, then after the total voltage on Bat1 and on the diode VD6 approaches the opening threshold of the zener diode VD5, the currents will begin to be redistributed - the charging one will decrease, and the current through the zener diode will increase. This is how the battery is protected from overcharging. Connected to the circuits with rectified voltage are also the “CHARGE” mode indicator on the HL1 LED (with a current-limiting resistor R3) and a resistor divider R5R6, the voltage from which is supplied to the base of the transistor VT1, thereby “opening” it. The open transistor VT1, in turn, “locks” the transistor VT2, “shorting” the base-emitter junction VT2, thereby prohibiting the operation of the blocking oscillator of the converter. If the voltage in the 220 V network disappears, then capacitor C2 will discharge, transistor VT1 will “close”, the converter will start working, voltage will appear on the high-voltage winding of transformer Tr1 and the lamps will begin to glow. Of course, this will happen if the slide switch S2 (2 directions, 3 positions) is in one of the extreme positions, i.e. in normal operating mode. To check the functionality of the lamp connected to the network, there is a button S1 in the circuit - pressing it forcibly “closes” the transistor VT1 and starts the converter.

For the remaining elements of the scheme. Resistor R1 discharges capacitor C1 through itself after disconnecting the lamp from the 220 V network. R2 is a current limiting voltage for the zener diode VD5. There was no marking on the zener diode, but most likely in this circuit it should have a high power dissipation, for example, 5 W. A chain of resistor R4 and LED HL2 “BATTERY” - indicating the presence of supply voltage to the converter - turns on at any extreme position of switch S2. The same switch selects the ignition mode of one or two lamps and, in the case of operation with two lamps, increases the base current of transistor VT2 by connecting resistor R7 in parallel with resistor R8. The current of pulses arriving at the base VT2 from the winding of transformer Tr1 is limited by resistor R9. The capacitance of capacitor C4 is selected operating frequency converter - when working with one lamp (after installing the KT972 transistor), it turned out to be better to increase the capacity of C4 by one and a half times - the current consumed from the battery decreased and at the same time the brightness of the lamp increased). Capacitor C5 is needed for the operation of the blocking generator (if one can say so, it is used to “short-circuit” to minus the pulses at the upper terminal of the base winding Tr1 and, accordingly, obtain pulses that are optimal in level based on VT2).

While there is no new normal battery, you can “look” at the old one - it is clear that it does not hold capacity, but you need to assess the degree of its inoperability and try to “bring it to life” with several successive charge and discharge cycles.

The battery measures 100x70x47 mm and has no markings other than letters and numbers on the top cover (Fig.14). Search engines say that it is most likely lead-acid, sealed, maintenance-free, with a capacity of 4.5 A/h (and the passport for the lamp says that a battery with a capacity of 1.6 A/h is used).

Fig.14

On Figure 14 it is clear that someone has already tried to pry off the lid that blocks access to the insides - two slits have been scratched. I insert a thin, wide textolite screwdriver into the slot on the right edge and, with some effort, remove the cover ( Fig.15). Three rubber sealing caps are visible, placed on the necks of the jars. And since there are three of them, then, presumably, each bank is designed for a voltage of 2 V.

Fig.15

I remove the caps with tweezers ( Fig.16).

Fig.16

Then I connect the probe of the positive terminal of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery, and use a crocodile clip on the negative probe to clamp the medical needle. Carefully, without effort, I lower the needle into the jar and touch its insides in different places ( Fig.17). The task is to touch hard conductive surfaces. The maximum voltage that the tester showed was about 0.5 V. Then, using a second needle, I also check the second can ( Fig.18) – the tester also shows 0.5 V.

Fig.17

Fig.18

And only when checking the third can, a normal voltage of 2 V finally appeared. In total, the total is the same 3 V that was measured at the stage of examining the interior of the lamp.

To charge the battery in a single can, a circuit was assembled according to Figure 19. Here, the ammeter shows the current flowing in the circuit (taking into account the current through the La1 light bulb), the voltmeter shows the voltage on the charging bank. The voltage on the power supply was set so that at the beginning of the charge the current through the can did not exceed 150 mA. The voltage on the bank was controlled with a VR-11A multimeter. When the value of 2.3 V was reached, switch S1 opened, the charge stopped and the discharge began to a voltage of 1.8 V. A total of four such cycles were carried out and after that the battery was fully charged. The lamp worked on it for just over five minutes - the time, of course, is not impressive, but considering that the battery had not worked at all before, the result of the training is visible. On Figure 20 shows the voltage measurement at the terminals after the next charge.

Fig.19

Fig.20

After turning on the lamp several times and charging, the lamp began to “diverge” and shine brighter and brighter ( Fig.21). I did not control the current consumption from the battery, but judging by the fact that the transistor is heating up in the same way as it was warming up, even if the current has increased, it does not affect the transistor - this is probably correct and good.

Fig.21

On Figure 22– indication when charging in the “OFF” switch position, on Figure 23– in the “One lamp” switch position. When the lamp is disconnected from the network, one tube begins to glow and only the green “BATTERY” LED remains lit ( Fig.24).

Fig.22

Fig.23

Fig.24

It is clear that the described repair case can be classified as “amateurish”, but, as it turned out, electrical diagram quite simple and understandable, there are few parts, the most difficult thing that can happen is repairing the transformer. Although, probably, it’s also not a problem - desolder, disassemble the core, preheat it, count the turns and remember the winding direction, wind new ones, assemble everything and solder it.

Andrey Goltsov, Iskitim

List of radioelements

Designation	Type	Denomination	Quantity	Note	My notepad
	Figure No. 13
VT1	Bipolar transistor	S9014-B	1		To notepad
VT2	Bipolar transistor	2SD882	1		To notepad
VD1...VD4, VD6	Rectifier diode	1N4007	5		To notepad
VD5	Zener diode	1N5343B	1	see text	To notepad
HL1	Light-emitting diode	L-513ed	1	red	To notepad
HL2	Light-emitting diode	L-513gd	1	green	To notepad
C1	Capacitor	2 µF	1	film 400 V	To notepad
C2, C3	Electrolytic capacitor	220 µF	1	16 V	To notepad
C4, C5	Capacitor	10 nF	2	film 100 V	To notepad
R1	Resistor	560 kOhm	1		To notepad
R2	Resistor

This emergency lighting device differs from similar ones in its simplicity, which does not prevent it from having many useful characteristics:

Really bright emergency lighting due to the use of 12 white LEDs
Fully automatic on/off
It has its own charger that will automatically stop charging when the battery is fully charged.

The entire circuit can be divided into two parts: a battery charging device and a LED control device. Charging is based on the use of IC LM317, control of LEDs is based on transistor BD140 (T2). To power the device, the mains voltage is reduced using a transformer. Thus, on a rectifier bridge consisting of four IN4007 diodes. A filter capacitor (25 V / 1000 µF) removes ripple. Next, the sequence is as follows: IC LM317, diode IN4007(D5) and limiting resistor R16 (16 Ohms). By adjusting the resistance of potentiometer VR1 (2.2 kOhm), you can adjust the charging current. Charging stops automatically thanks to the Zener diode (see diagram). The lighting part uses 10mm white LEDs. The connection is parallel, with a 100 Ohm resistor for each LED. Without going into the principle of operation, it is only worth noting that for transistor T2 (BD140) it is necessary to use a radiator. A large number of LEDs can be used, the only limitation is that the total consumption is no more than 1.5 A.

You can also download the diagram in .

Is it necessary to have the correct color rendition for emergency lighting? :) The scheme is competent and useful for rooms in which there is no natural light.
http://www..php?u=10086 is right, we have deviated somewhat from the topic. Here, after all, we are discussing a scheme about which so much can be said. For example, no one seems to think that the upper transistor is working “by a thread”: is Urev at the emitter junction too large?
In this circuit, I would replace the battery with a voltage of 3.7 V and remove the 100 Ohm resistors from each LED. A very interesting solution, regarding automatic switching on, I’ll take note, it might come in handy. I myself use 12 LEDs, a battery and an automatic charger from my mobile phone. What I mean is that there are already mountains of outdated and faulty mobile phones. Is there somewhere I can get batteries for this voltage? If they have at least half the capacity left, they can be connected several times in parallel through low-resistance resistors.
I don't agree. An LED (like a diode) has a very steep characteristic, and it is impossible to power it without current stabilization or at least a ballast resistor.
The flashlight recently broke and I’ve been thinking for a long time about throwing out the LED matrix or? found a use. From old rs. stations took four d055, disassembled the charging from the Phone, first replacing the zener diode, increasing the voltage, found a previously assembled charging control unit assembled at 176.561 [circuit from a railway radio] added another control, this is when during charging the voltage on the batteries rises and charging is turned off so that this does not happen at the moment When turning off, the 5.1 ohm resistance is connected and if the voltage drops below the threshold, charging is turned on and so on until it is charged. I took the relay and connected it to the power supply output. and when the light goes down, it lets go and switches to the batteries and back to the mains. I assembled it into a box, it came out compact, and I screwed it small into the corridor. And when the lights were turned off, the corridor was illuminated exclusively. And it killed time and was a useful thing.
When the task is to kill time, you can do so many useful things! As Ivanov wrote... Spit out the window and end up in the trash can, Go to the opera in the evening, Take apart the new TV, Look what's inside...
But seriously, excellent (and free!) emergency lighting can be made from a radio point (if anyone has such an exotic one left).
Hello gentlemen! I don't argue LED lights, are very economical, however, and expensive at the same time. One cannot but agree that after some time LED lamps will replace ordinary light bulbs, but not so soon. Now, in fact, the cost of such lamps is high, and also extremely critical.
Not that high. Especially for the Kulibins, who make their own from discrete penny diodes. How is it “cost... is critical”? What language is this in?
Citizens, we are not talking about a simple lamp, but about an EMERGENCY lamp - reliability is important here, and the price fades into the background.
Well, simplicity is the best means of achieving reliability.
Something is not quite fancy there... It can and should be simpler. I decided on the spot, and without any fuss. Intercom power supply - two voltages, two “indicating” white LEDs. Particularly bright. You won’t get lost in the vestibule anymore. Then I hung up the reserve with batteries. That’s where I stuck whatever came to hand - yellow, white, blue, and even flashing (blue-red). Except for the flashing one, everything is especially bright. Now, if you cut the voltage, and the intercom works for at least 6 hours, and you hit a hell of a lot of pine cones, you can see everything. And, by the way, it doesn’t hurt the eyes. :-)
Well, if such illumination suits you, you can even stick phosphor strips on it. Even aesthetically pleasing.
mba1 The concepts of “emergency” and “backup” should not be combined. Emergency lighting must be sufficient to distinguish objects.
Exactly. So as not to get bumps and stumble. I also have a blue attachment on the exit button, where to press the fluorescent arrow is glued from a film, and the backlight is made using a UV LED... :-) In short, I am a maniac with pretensions to an esthete. :-)
That's not interesting. I thought Kenjima would start arguing about whether phosphorus produces alpha or vetta radiation, and how harmful it is, and how many people were imprisoned for it in 1937...
Damn it! You won't be disappointed! :-) Just, not a Vette, but simply: Beta. Phosphorus does not give, but those plaques - badges that were used during the Siege - really siphoned. It was not phosphorus, but a luminescent compound mixed with radium salts. By the way, about an X-ray per hour is given by the clock from the dashboard of an airplane of those times, and this “Firefly” was generally siphoning like hell...
Good afternoon Tell me, what if you convert it to 12V to maintain it in working order and use it as an uninterruptible power supply for security. what kind of Zener diode is needed - I saw only 13 and 15 volts and what kind of load resistor is needed for this. closed acid battery. Thank you.
On a 12-volt battery. in standby mode it should be 13.8V. The zener diode in this circuit is not needed at all (the voltage is set by the drawn variable), and it is better to use the lower transistor to limit the current (then a powerful resistor is also not needed, and the LMku is used for a good radiator), connecting the right end of the 1.2k resistor to the "-" battery -ra, and between this point and the emitter there is a resistor of about 1 Ohm.
People, help me find a diagram for an emergency lighting lamp!!! Chinese crap with 52 LEDs. This creation is called SD 886 LA. Google doesn't want to find one like this. I'm interested in the battery charging circuit. Much praised, it supposedly charges itself, without recharging, monitors the battery discharge, etc. Judging by the board, it is doubtful. Anyone who has any info on it, plz.