How to properly build scaffolding and construction trestles with your own hands. How to make a goat construction video

Perhaps any owner of a house with a stove, fireplace or sauna has at least once cut wood. When camping or fishing, sawing or splitting trees is not difficult, as only a small amount of firewood is required. It is much more difficult to prepare firewood regularly, in reserve. To facilitate the cutting process, sawhorses have been used for cutting wood for centuries.

The design has a very simple structure, so making it is not difficult even for a beginner. To make cutting firewood not only quick, but also easy, you need to choose the right sawhorses.

Design for hand sawing

For many centuries, goats remained virtually unchanged. The craftsmen only adjusted the width and height of the product to their own height and the size of the logs. Previously, wood was cut in pairs using a two-handed saw.

The cutting process when working together was controlled by the free hand. On both sides, workers held the ends of the log, guiding it or pressing it for more convenient work. When cutting large trunks, they were sawed a little deeper than the middle and turned to the other side. With such a cut, the cut could have an uneven edge, which would burden the splitting.

Traditional sawhorses for firewood were made from cross-shaped posts. They were placed at a distance equal to the double firebox of the stove for which the wood was cut.

Such products can still be found in everyday life, but they have still undergone some changes. Another cross was added to them, which allows you to clamp firewood. These sawhorses can be used with one-handed saws.

You can also find metal sawhorses on the modern market. They are equipped with teeth for strong fixation of wood. Metal devices have screw stops that also make cutting easier by holding the log in the sawhorses.

It is much easier to prepare fuel on such goats. If you store firewood yourself, then such a device is indispensable in your household.

Chain saw sawhorses

If you need to store a large amount of fuel, it is best to work with an electric or gasoline saw. Such tools not only make it easier, but also speed up the work significantly. In addition, they reduce physical and time costs.

It will not be possible to cut firewood with a chain saw on a regular, traditional sawhorse, since the tool may break if the bar gets stuck in the cut. If you cut off pieces of logs that extend beyond the crosspieces of the structure, the cut will be long and irrational. That is why special sawhorses for sawing firewood with a chainsaw have been developed for harvesting with electric tools. The simplest design for cutting firewood with a chain saw consists of a heavy base and stable legs. The tree trunk is cut down where it extends beyond the boundaries of the goat. You can hold the log in this setup with your foot.

The speed of work on this design is not very high, but it is quite suitable for cutting medium batches.

Chain saw stand

If you are harvesting thin logs, it is better to build a log rack. The design consists of 4 legs or pillars welded or attached to the base. You can use a welded frame or a heavy metal plate for it. The device is convenient only for working with small trunks; you cannot cut large logs with it. The size of the trestle is selected based on the size of the stove and the length of the supplied logs. The product can be made in almost any size.

Note! To facilitate the operation of frame trestles, fasten the racks not by welding, but by bolting. This will allow you to quickly disassemble the structure to remove firewood.

The device has the only drawback - the armful of logs in it cannot be sawed to the end, otherwise the saw will hit the ground. To eliminate this problem, you can install transverse supports in which a gap is formed between the woodpile and the trestle stand. However, this type of device cannot be quickly disassembled, which reduces its functionality.

Assembly of traditional trestle

To make a classic design for sawing firewood with your own hands, you will need one of the following materials:

The product is very simple, but to make it functional, you need to follow certain recommendations. One of which is drawing up a diagram or drawing that will facilitate assembly. On the drawing you need to note the size and height of the structure. This will allow you to correctly assemble the sawhorses and calculate the amount of material needed.

It is very important in the work to accurately select the angle of the supports. Correct tilting will make the structure stable and cutting simple. If you don’t know how to make a sawhorse with your own hands, use the instructions from professionals.

When making trestles, it is necessary to correctly select their height and length. These dimensions are affected by:

• the height of the worker who will cut the wood;
• saw size;
• dimensions of the trunks that will be used for preparation.

Correctly selected parameters will allow you to assemble the sawhorses quickly and correctly. The optimal height of the structure is 90-100 cm. At this height, the worker will not strain his back by constant bending, and his arms will be horizontal to the working surface.

Goats for working with a hand saw

Most often, a regular saw is used for harvesting wood; this allows you to cut small-sized logs. Goats for such purposes may have standard dimensions. To assemble such a structure you will need the following materials:

The material will be required for homeowners who do not have building materials on the site. Those who have scraps of timber or pipes left over from other work can use them in assembling the trestle.

To create the design you will need the following set of tools:

• hacksaw for cutting timber;
• corner for aligning parts of the structure;
• pencil for marking;
• hammer or screwdriver;
• roulette;
• finishing coat and brush.

Once the material has been purchased, assembly can begin. The goat frame is made starting with wood processing. To do this, use a tape measure and a pencil to mark the cutting areas. They need to be made 6 on each side. There will be 12 of all grooves for connecting the legs and crosses. With a beam cross-section of 100 mm, the depth of the groove is 25 mm, this is enough for a strong fastening. When cutting the grooves, make sure that they are a couple of millimeters smaller than the legs. After marking and making grooves, all parts are assembled into a single structure.

After assembly, fastener reinforcements are installed; they enhance the strength of the structure and make work safer. To do this, saw off the bottom of each leg so that there is enough space to install a new fastener. After assembling the product, it is treated with a protective compound. To do this, use varnish or stain. When the structure is dry, it can be used.

Metal goats

A metal structure is often called a machine tool because of its stability. In addition to stability, these sawhorses are very durable. If you want to assemble such a product yourself, prepare the following materials and tools in advance:

Before assembly, an exact diagram or drawing of the trestle is made. After determining the dimensions of the structure, the beams for the base are marked and sawn. It is also worth marking the points of welding or connecting the legs and “horns” in advance.

Note! If you plan to take the sawhorse with you on hikes or move it from place to place in the future, use a bolt-on connection. A structure assembled using such fasteners will be more mobile.

To construct a conventional, stationary machine, welding is used. The parts of the structure are welded together, starting with the legs. It is better to enlist the help of a partner in such work. After welding, a wooden plank is attached to the longitudinal beam; it will protect the metal from the saw.

When you assemble it yourself, you can get a device that suits you in all respects. Don’t be afraid to add your own edits to the design, this will make the work even more efficient.

The simplest device for sawing firewood is a sawhorse, which allows you to process cubic meters of wood raw materials and make a neat cut of a board or metal strip. The classic look of the machine is represented by a simple design. The material for making wood sawing equipment is more than available and can be chosen at your discretion: wooden beams, thin tree trunks, metal profiles, scrap metal at hand.

How to make sawhorses for sawing firewood according to ergonomic rules

Like any machine, a sawing unit requires preparation for its manufacture, thinking about the design, making a sketch or drawing with dimensions, indicating small details, choosing the angle of inclination of the supports, and the height of the horns. A careful approach will eliminate subsequent modifications, speed up assembly, and help create the prerequisites for effective work.

Precisely selected sizes and dimensions of the sawhorses allow you to assemble a light, stable and easy-to-use frame for sawing logs. The overall size should take into account the comfortable and convenient use of the machine:

• employee growth,
• type of instrument,
• the type of wood being cut.

The height of the log affects the duration of sawing. The optimal height of the crossbar-support for laying raw materials is 90 - 110 cm, a size that allows you to work in a free natural position, without bending your back or placing your arm above the horizontal.

The work tool predetermines the mounting of additional elements on the trestles. Working with a two-handed saw requires a hand rest. A simple stop is made from timber inserted into sawhorses.

Using a chainsaw to harvest logs requires strong material for the top part of the sawhorse and other construction. The technology of working with modern cutting tools requires maximum space for one of the ends of the log to hang freely in order to eliminate the possibility of clamping the blade.

How to make sawhorses for sawing firewood with a regular saw

We provide overall dimensions and detailed instructions for making lightweight, durable and comfortable trestles.

For work, prepare the material from the list:

• For the base. A piece of timber with a cross section of 100x100 mm. Cut length 1.1+/- 00.5 m.
• For legs. Sections of bars with a section of 50x50 mm. Quantity - 4 units. Length 1.1 +/-0.05 m.
• Under the horns. Sections of bars with a section of 50x50 mm. Quantity - 2 units. Length 360 m.
• For amplifiers under your feet. Sections of timber with inch section. Quantity - 2 units. Length 1.3m.
• 3 dozen self-tapping screws 45x100 mm.
• Preparation for protecting wooden surfaces from rotting, stain.

The proposed list is not mandatory. Materials are selected from the existing residues from previous construction work on the farm.

To work you will need a set of tools:

• Construction corner.
• Soft simple pencil.
• Wood saw.
• An ordinary hammer.
• Chisels.
• Construction tape.
• Screwdrivers with flat and Phillips heads.
• Paint brush 4-5 cm.

Mark the beam for the base for 12 cuts, 6 pieces on each side, 2.5 cm deep. These will be the grooves for the horns and legs. Helpful advice. The cuts are made 2-3 mm narrower than 50 mm, for a tight, tight fit insertion of 50x50 mm beams.

Using a chisel and hammer, cuts are selected, and bars cut to size are inserted into the resulting grooves. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.

On inch-section bars, places are marked for attaching amplifiers, ensuring the strength of the structure and eliminating the possibility of the legs diverging under load. The end sections are sawed off with a hacksaw, and the length is selected to be flush with the legs. The ends of the legs resting on the ground are sawed off at an angle.

Finished goats are treated with stain. After drying, the simple machine is ready for use.

Making sawhorses for sawing with a two-handed saw

Cutting logs with a two-handed saw causes the machine to loosen due to alternating shear forces and leads to narrow sawhorses tipping over. X-shaped stands for a sawing unit for a two-handed saw are made from thick, good quality wood with a cross-section of 10 cm or more, using a metal tie or a wooden block for ties. The width of the lower support of the racks is made 10-15 cm greater than the distance from the surface to the top of the tie bar. In the case of connecting the supporting crosses with a wooden tie, they are additionally tied with a thin beam, strengthening and giving the structure rigidity and stability.

Dimensions for making goats are taken similar to those for a simple design, with adjustments to the dimensions for the lower support.

How to make homemade folding trestles from wood

Firewood is collected seasonally. During the rest of the period, a used sawing machine gathers dust, deteriorates and takes up useful space. The folding trestle model will help resolve the issue of rational storage and will be useful when conducting on-site logging.

To make the model you will need the following materials:

• Wooden bars. Quantity - 4 units.
• Metal pipe 1-1.3 m long. Quantity - 1 unit.
• Limiter for connecting legs: cable, chain, belt, rope.
• Wood drill with maximum diameter.

Simplicity of design is combined with ease of manufacture. Bars of the same size are taken ready-made or cut from a 50 mm board. On each block, a place is marked for a hole with a diameter 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the pipe and drilled through with a punch. The paired connection of the bars is made with a limiter. The length of the limiter is selected according to the opening angle of the goat 350-450.

Correct assembly allows you to fold the bars in one plane and remove the sawhorses until required.

How to make metal sawhorses for sawing firewood

Metal trestles have a longer working life and compact dimensions, in contrast to classic wooden structures. To make metal goats at home, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Angle/profile pipe 50x50mm.
• Wooden beam 50x59mm. Length 5-10 cm.
• Grinder or hacksaw for metal.
• Construction centimeter or tape measure.
• Bolts for connection or welding machine.

According to a sketch drawn up in advance, with the dimensions marked and verified, the base beam is cut off, and the attachment points for the legs and stags are outlined. The remaining parts of the structure are cut. The connection option is selected. For a collapsible structure, the parts are connected with bolts. For a stationary goat, welding of parts is used. A piece of 50x50 mm timber is attached to the longitudinal angle or pipe holding the racks together. This is a precautionary measure and protection of the saw teeth; contact of the working surface of the teeth with the metal body of the sawhorses is excluded.

The cost of a homemade metal model is high and comparable to the price of an assembled ready-made goat model on the construction market of tools and equipment.

The model range covers small units intended for private use, and ends with large, oversized machines for large-scale production. Price limits from $12 to $500. The choice of model is made according to the expected load on the frame, the length and thickness of the working scaffold.

European manufacturers offer inexpensive sawhorses for sawing firewood. Many Ukrainian distributor companies offer to buy the selected model with delivery. For example, the German company MB offers models on the Ukrainian market starting from $11. The difference between high-quality sawing sawhorses from Germany and similar Chinese copies is in the composition and strength of the metal, and the equipment of the machines with additional elements. A serrated edge is provided to increase grip, reduce sliding and turning of the log during operation, a compact aesthetic design, and treatment of joints and edges with an anti-corrosion compound.

How to make your own sawhorses for sawing firewood with a chainsaw

The popularity of using a chainsaw for cutting firewood is associated with the low price of the tool, ease of operation and speed of performing a large amount of work. Compared to the traditional method of manual sawing, the productivity of a chainsaw is tens of times greater, and the ease of work is several orders of magnitude higher.

The owner of a modern tool is offered an original and convenient design of sawhorses. Cutting a log with a chainsaw on a classic X-shaped stand can cause the chain to become pinched during the cut. To prevent the chain saw from jamming, the worker has to manually turn the log with the cut side down to complete the cut. A safer method is to cut the freely protruding end of the wood.

Improved metal sawhorses are used to cut wood with a chainsaw. A gear gripper is installed on one of the ends of the machine or a steel chain is welded. Having extended one end of the log as much as possible, the other is securely clamped in the device.

For private sawmills or large farms for the procurement and processing of scaffolding waste, slabs, scraps of boards, slats, beams, the industry produces universal, convenient sawing sawhorses. The machine makes it possible to stack all the timber intended for processing in a dense stack, fix it with a special device, eliminating the possibility of spreading or unexpected ricochet of scraps during the cutting process. Models start at $80.

The unsightly design of the trestle can be transformed, if desired, into a modern aesthetic appearance, expanding the basic functionality of the machine. The manufacturing scheme of the sawing machine remains the same: legs with horns and a connecting body.

• The changes will affect the material used:
  • Replace the log with a wide board and place it on its edge.
  • X-shaped legs should be made not from beams, but from available metal profiles.
  • Assemble a board from narrow boards and cover it with a multi-colored antifungal agent.
  • Attach supports to the base panel, previously bent from the upper and lower ends of the support. Use bolts with wing nuts as connectors. Choose an arbitrary bending angle, taking into account the possibility of placing a large log in the rogulins. Perform the bottom step taking into account the stability of the structure.

The versatility of the manufactured goats lies in the extraordinary design and expanded functionality of the horns. The legs, bent at an angle, after assembly, form a vertical crevice that can conveniently accommodate logs of any diameter, boards, beams. Cutting a blade of complex, inconvenient configuration will become easy and safe.

• Add intermediate horns to the previous design of the modernized goat. This will allow you to saw short beams, blanks, boards, and branches. The collapsible design of the trestle allows you to use the machine in a utility room and in a limited area, for example, on the roof, in the attic during repairs or installation of a new floor.
• In a small room, the unification of the trestle can be brought to perfection. When assembling, leave the long upper end of the horns, mark 2/3 of the length and make a bend in a vice at 900 to the vertical.
• If necessary, a flat board is placed on the horizontal horns to create an improvised table. Having provided a method for attaching the board to the curved horns, a mobile surface for attaching a vice, a surface plane, and a tabletop are obtained. While the trestle is standing, the flat panel is turned into a plane for hanging shelves and drawers for tools.
• For beginners in carpentry, advice on assembling a trestle from blocks. The first block is passed under the cross, and the subsequent ones are used to connect the legs.
• In order to make it easier to unscrew and protect the bolts from corrosive oxidation, a lubricant is applied to the nut threads before starting work.

It’s the 21st century, and the world has stopped being surprised by technological innovations. The stores display beautiful and convenient devices for sawing firewood from Sweden, Canada, and the USA, adapted for sawing with an electric or chainsaw. It’s even just nice to see how beautifully they are made: they clamp the log securely, and it’s very convenient to do sawing, and they’re compact, too. However, in life, our people have used various versions of their grandfather’s goats, and continue to use them. Anachronism and stinginess? Partly yes, but the main thing is that “classic” sawhorses are very comfortable and practical. Our ancestors were wise and experienced. Even the emphasis in the word that denotes this device was placed so that in the future there would be no misunderstandings and people would not confuse the term from household use with the name of innocent animals.

Anyone can quickly assemble this structure; the materials for making a sawhorse for cutting firewood are almost always at hand. However, for all the apparent simplicity, you should first draw a drawing or sketch. And it will be easier to work, and you won’t have to correct errors. It is imperative to take into account the height of the person who will cut the wood, and the type of saw with which the wood will be cut - a two-handed or chainsaw.

How to make your own sawhorses for cutting wood with a chainsaw

Cutting wood is more convenient and much easier with a chainsaw. Especially if the logs were brought to you thick and damp. Cut the firewood quickly, the performance with a chainsaw is completely different.

To cut firewood with a chainsaw, you can use sawhorses assembled according to the traditional pattern. But there is one serious inconvenience - the chain saw will definitely jam when you finish the cut. This happens when a cut is made between the posts (the end of the log protruding beyond the edge of the structure can be easily cut by the saw). To prevent pinching, the log must be turned with the saw down. This is additional and quite hard work, especially when you have to move hefty logs alone.

Craftsmen have developed (and perhaps some of them copied “in Chinese”) designs to avoid clamping the saw chain. And they even patented their designs. Such sawhorses for sawing firewood with a chainsaw can be divided into two types. The first includes metal structures in which the short end of the log is clamped with a chain or toothed grip, and the long free end protrudes far beyond the sawhorse. In these trestles, the supporting “heel” is made in such a way that a log cannot disturb their equilibrium position. This design is reminiscent of imported factory-made goats. Ours just look simpler and the documentation for them (protected by a patent!) is orders of magnitude cheaper.

Another patent-protected design for sawing firewood with a chainsaw is wooden:

The advantages of this design include:

• The ability to cut logs alone, because there is no need to move them while working.
• There is no danger of the chain becoming pinched.
• Possibility to adjust the length of the blocks into which the log is cut. When working on such sawhorses, the blocks are the same length.
• Due to the design features of the sawhorse, sawed off blocks roll in the direction opposite to the sawyer.
• Compact when folded. In the utility room near the wall they will take up very little space - the thickness in the folded position is only 12 cm.

How to make a sawhorse with your own hands for sawing firewood with a two-handed saw

Anyone who has ever sawed a large number of logs with a two-handed “friendship” saw (that’s right, with a small letter. This is not a brand of saw, but a hint of the friendship of two sawmills), knows well how important it is to correctly select the height of the log on the sawhorse. It is believed that the most comfortable height is from 90 to 110 cm. You don’t need to bend your back too much when bending forward, you don’t have to squat, you work comfortably and quickly. After all, working for a long time in an uncomfortable position the next morning will make you like a rusty iron woodcutter - your back and knees will bend with great difficulty.

Important! Basic requirements for goats: stability and strength. Strength is required due to the large weight of the logs and the lateral, alternating forces applied by the sawyers. These efforts will loosen the goats, so the X-shaped racks (“legs” should be supported by a good beam with a side of at least 100 mm.

In order to make sawhorses for sawing wood, we will need:

• Beam 100x100 mm, length 1100 mm. It will serve as the basis of the structure. You can also use a flat, dry and not very thick log as a base.
• Beam 50x50 mm, four sections of 1100 mm each. They will become the “legs” of the goat.
• Beam 50x50 mm, two pieces of 350 mm each. We will make “horns” from them.
• Beam 50x50 mm, two pieces of 1100 mm each for tying the “legs”.
• Self-tapping screws 5x100 mm, about 30 pcs. in total.
• Impregnation "Bioprotection".

We make cuts on the timber that will serve as the base. We make 12 cuts, two for each groove. We will need 6 grooves, each 25 mm deep, for the “legs” and “horns”.

Important! Try to make cuts slightly narrower than the block. Literally 2 mm. That is, instead of 50 mm, we make cuts of 48 mm. This way the beam will fit into the groove with force, and the entire structure will be stronger.

Using a chisel and hammer, select the grooves along the intended cuts. We forcefully drive the prepared pieces of timber into the grooves: four “legs” and two “horns”. We tighten the screws. Using a hacksaw, we saw off the ends of the timber, which serves as “legs,” at an angle, so that the goats stand firmly and evenly on the ground. The trestle base is assembled.

We make the binding of the “legs”. We attach one end of the beam to the “legs” from the inside, the other - from the outside. Now we are sure that the “legs” will not move apart. We also fix the transverse “leg reinforcements” with self-tapping screws. If the ends of the beam protrude, use a hacksaw to cut them flush with the “legs.” We treat it with bioprotection and you can start cutting firewood.

In addition to the “classic” version of a wooden trestle, you can make metal trestles. This design will be lighter and last longer. They are made from rectangular steel pipe with a side of at least 50 mm. For ease of storage, it is better to secure the crosspieces and trim with bolts rather than welding. When bolted, the structure can be disassembled.

Important! The structure should not be light, otherwise it will be unstable during operation. And make the design according to your height.

The pipe pieces are attached to each other at an angle of 45°. The resulting three crosses are tied with the same pipe horizontally and diagonally for rigidity.

Goats are an indispensable tool for any job. For a long time, the author of the Do-It-Yourself Joinery channel used temporary, hastily constructed sawhorses. And mostly outdoors. When the workshop appeared, the question of them in the workshop became acute.
These structures made of logs and thick boards, which I used until recently, have a lot of weight and take up a lot of space. Therefore, I decided to make goats more suitable for DIY work. It turned out to be a very professional model.

This Chinese store has a lot of useful things for carpenters.

There are a great many designs of trestles and various supports. But first of all, I paid attention to the versatility of the design, which allows you to adjust the height of the support crossbar or saddle, use the sawhorses as a mini-workbench, and also turn them into a roller support for supporting long workpieces. Here are some examples of such designs.
In the first one, I liked the possibility of combining several pairs of trestles into a table. The simplicity and disassembly of the design is captivating here. In these, the implementation of mechanisms for a fixed change in the height of the saddle is interesting. And I liked the last ones the most. And, first of all, due to the presence of a folding roller support and a smooth change in the height of the saddle.
After analyzing many options, I came up with the design of universal trestles. These sawhorses consist of a replaceable T-shaped saddle and a roller support with guides that fit into through slots in the body. Legs and connected crossbars are embedded into the body, on which the shelf is installed. The housing also contains a mechanism for fixing the saddle and roller support.

The first most important thing when designing carpentry trestles is to determine their height. In general, in a workshop, for the comfort of work, it is best to make the height of all working surfaces: sawhorse, workbench, workbench top, circular saw table, etc., uniform and appropriate to your height.
To determine the optimal height of working surfaces in the workshop for your height, do the following. Put on your work shoes, stand straight, place your feet shoulder-width apart, relax your shoulders, lower your arms along your body, bend your wrists so that your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance from the floor to the base of your palms will be the optimal height of the working surface for your height. For the height of the author of the video, this is about 88 cm. Accordingly, I made universal sawhorses taking this height into account.

The dimensions of the parts were calculated based on the fact that the starting material is a shaped construction board with a section of 50x150 and 25-150 mm. After planing, workpieces with a cross-section of approximately 45x145 and 22x145 mm, respectively, are obtained.
The T-shaped saddle of the carpentry sawhorses consists of two parts. Planed and sawn to size boards 45mm thick, with a selected dovetail groove and a composite block glued together from two 22mm thick slats. The comb is also of the dovetail type, with which it is inserted onto the glue into the board. Perpendicular to the edge of the composite bar, two guide rails also 22 mm thick are glued into it.
Roller support is even simpler. Because there is no T-junction. The roller support was made from a nickel-plated metal pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, used for supporting tabletops made of glass MDF or chipboard. I didn’t think too much here. Using a wood bit with a diameter of 50 mm, I cut out two plugs from a board 50 mm thick. I inserted furniture bolts with a diameter of 6 mm into the plugs and secured them with nuts. The plugs were tightly inserted into the pipe on both sides. Next, having previously put the washers on the protruding ends of the bolts, I inserted them into the hole in the brackets. And I attached the brackets themselves to the composite rail with self-tapping screws. On the outside of the brackets, I screwed self-locking nuts through washers.

In this article I will tell you and show in detail in photographs how to make reliable wooden scaffolding (or, as they are also called, goats) with your own hands. It took us 100 minutes to assemble them. Their height is 1100mm (from the top platform to the floor). The scaffolding is designed for an apartment ceiling height of 3 meters.

If it is high for you, simply cut the legs to the desired height; if it is low, during manufacturing, cut the legs to the appropriate length.

First, let's look at the building materials and tools that you will need to make wooden construction scaffolds.

Building materials for making scaffolding with your own hands

1. 5 boards (100X30mm) 1470mm – upper platform;
2. 3 boards (100X30mm) 500mm – crossbars for the lid;
3. 2 boards (100X30mm) 1480mm – shelf;
4. 4 boards (100X30mm) 1150mm – legs;
5. 2 boards (100X30mm) 1700mm – large oblique crossbars;
6. 2 boards (100X30mm) 700mm – small oblique crossbars;
7. 2 boards (100X30mm) 500mm – upper steps;
8. 2 boards (100X30mm) 570mm – lower steps;
9. 2 boards (100X30mm) 100mm – pads;
10. 2 boards (50X30mm) 1580mm - large straight crossbars.

Yellow self-tapping screws:

1. 32 self-tapping screws 4X50 yellow;
2. 71 self-tapping screws 5X70 yellow.

DIY scaffolding tool

1. Carpenter's pencil

A carpenter's pencil is necessary for marking cut lines on boards.

2. Construction tape

We use a construction tape to measure the lengths of boards before cutting.

3. Jigsaw

The jigsaw can be electric or battery-powered. Use for cross-cutting and longitudinal cutting of sawhorse boards.

4. Wood saw

A wood hacksaw is used to cut boards if a jigsaw is not available. This will slow down the speed of work and increase the load on the body, but this is a solution when there is no jigsaw.

5. Hammer

You will need a hammer to knock down the boards.

6. Screwdriver

We use a screwdriver to fasten the boards with self-tapping screws. Select a bat specifically for yellow self-tapping screws.

When working with power tools, piercing and cutting tools, be sure to follow SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Do-it-yourself installation of wooden construction scaffolding (gantry)

1. Cut 5 boards for the top platform of the scaffolding, each 1470mm long.

2. Cut 2 boards to make a shelf under the top platform. The length of the boards is 1480mm. They are 10 mm longer than the top platform, so that the legs attached later go slightly at an angle.

3. Cut 3 cross boards of 500mm each.

4. Attach the top deck boards to the crossbars. To do this, place two outer crossbars (500mm) on the edge and place five boards of the upper platform on them.

Align the boards along the edges.

Screw the boards into the rib of the crossbars at the edges. Then find the middle of the top platform of the scaffold and twist it in the center. (Use 5X70mm self-tapping screws).

Please note that it is better to fasten the edges of the boards of the upper platform with two screws, and the center with one.

5. Attach two shelves to the bottom (5X70mm self-tapping screws). In the future, it will be very convenient to place various tools on them so that they do not get underfoot when working.

Side view.

6. Cut 4 legs for the scaffolding at 1150mm.

7. Screw the legs of the scaffold into the brace. The distance between the outer edges of the legs near the top platform should be 500mm, and at the base 600mm (5X70mm screws).

8. Turn the scaffold over and trim the ends of the sawhorse legs protruding above the top platform as shown (three cut, one sticking out).

9. Screw the oblique cross members (1700mm) crosswise from the outside (5X70mm self-tapping screws). Cut off the protruding ends.

10. Screw the short oblique crossbars (700mm) crosswise from the inside (4X50mm self-tapping screw).

Then screw the step (500mm) from two short sides at a distance of 360mm from the top edge of the cover to the top edge of the step (4X50mm self-tapping screw).

After this, screw two lugs (100mm) for the second step on the short sides at a distance of 720mm from the top edge (4X50mm self-tapping screw) and screw the second step (570mm) onto them (5X70mm self-tapping screw).

11. Screw two straight cross members onto the larger sides (1580mm) (4X50mm self-tapping screw).

After this, trim the legs so that they are the same length.

12. And the last stage - sand the cut areas with sandpaper.

Your DIY construction wooden scaffolding (trunks) are ready for work! It only took 100 minutes to make them.

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