home Convectors How to build a brick column correctly. Laying fence posts made of facing bricks

How to build a brick column correctly. Laying fence posts made of facing bricks

Eurogib specialists constantly have to travel to construction sites for measurements and installation. When we go out to order caps for fence posts, we often come across mistakes that even experienced masons make when building brick pillars. The laying of fence posts has its own characteristics and differences from the laying of walls of houses or stoves. In this article we want to highlight the basic principles of building brick fences.

Foundation for brick fence– a very important thing. The more massive the fence, the more reliable the foundation under it should be. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the foundation for those fence elements on which the gate will be installed.

When choosing a foundation design, the bearing capacity of the soil is of great importance. For example, it could be strip foundation, in which bored piles are located in the center, and each of them contains metal pipe, but the choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be made of, as well as on the type of soil. If the fence span is made of light material (corrugated sheets, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each post. The depth of the pile depends on the type of soil and the height of the groundwater. If the soils are classified as heaving (clay or loams) with highly located groundwater, the level of the bottom of the foundation should be located 15-20 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to lay the bottom of the foundation at a depth of up to 80 cm.

Here is one of the options pile foundation under a brick pillar: we drill a hole of the required depth (diameter 25-35 cm), fill the bottom with a bucket or two of crushed stone, compact it with one of possible ways. We install formwork inside the hole (usually roofing felt rolled into two or three layers). We place a pipe inside the formwork, around which we will subsequently lay the pillar. The length of the pipe consists of two quantities: the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will rise above the level of the top of the foundation. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe in this case does not necessarily have to be up to the very top of the pillar. It can rise only 40-50 cm. An exception is the pillars on which the gate and/or wicket will be hung. Here the internal reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be entirely brick or there are high wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles connected with shallow tape.

Most often, brick pillars are made 2-3 meters high. But the designs can be different, it all depends on the expected height of the fence itself. Accordingly, the higher the pillar, the stronger the foundation needs to be made.

The technology used to lay bricks for fence posts is exactly the same as for load-bearing structures, however, they will not serve as a support and their ability to withstand large vertical loads is completely unimportant.

The design of the post on which the gate or wicket will be attached may look something like this:

The design of the intermediate pillars to support the spans can be reinforced a little weaker, but the reinforcement of the pillars must be done:

The distance between the pillars of a brick fence can be from 2 to 8 meters. It depends on many circumstances and conditions:

the volume of financial resources intended for the construction of the fence;
dimensions of the filler material (span length of corrugated sheet or wooden picket fence) when constructing a combined fence;
load forces on the pillars.

You should not erect poles too rarely, as this will significantly affect the quality of the fence and its service life. And besides, it looks less attractive. The most optimal distance between the posts is 2.5 - 4 m. Measure the distance between the posts of the gate and gate very carefully so that you don’t have to adjust anything later. It is ideal when the dimensions of the gate and wicket are known before the construction of the brick fence. This way you can avoid many problems associated with subsequent fitting.

The span filler is attached to the pillars only after they have stood for some time. This usually takes 2-3 weeks.

Which brick to choose for a fence?

The simplest one is ordinary ceramic brick. May be solid or hollow. In the first case, the advantages include strength, but the disadvantages include heavy weight. With the second option, everything is the other way around.

Another advantage is its low cost, but it also comes with a drawback – its unpresentable appearance. Typically, simple brick is used if the pillar will subsequently have an external finish.

Another option is clinker brick. Beautiful, durable, practically does not crumble. Captivates with the variety of textures, colors and the ability of clinker to harmonize with buildings made in both classical and traditional styles. modern styles. Of course, it will cost more than its simple clay counterpart.

The next option is sand-lime brick - very durable, frost-resistant, has excellent noise-absorbing qualities, environmentally friendly and, of course, not cheap.

Most often, fence posts are made from the same brick as the house itself. But combined options are possible:

Brick size standard red: width – 120, length – 250, height 65 mm. This ratio is considered optimal if you alternate longitudinal and transverse placement of single bricks in the masonry.

One and a half. Construction does not stand still; new brick sizes have appeared, in particular – one-and-a-half bricks. The width of such a brick is 120, length is 250, and height is 88 mm. To lighten the weight of the masonry, a special technique was developed: solid bricks alternated with porous, hollow and perforated ones.

Double. This type of brick is practically never found in solid form; it is made in a perforated form to lighten the weight of the masonry. Brick size: width – 120, length – 250, height – 103 mm.

Euro– 250x85x65 mm, guest reduction 0.7 NF;

Single modular– 288x138x65 mm, guest abbreviation 1.3 NF.

Type of brick	Standard sizes, mm	Weight, kg
Ceramic facing brick	25012065 25012065 2508565(Euro)	2.3; 2.6-2.7 (hollow) 3.6-3.7 (hollow) 2.1-2.2 (hollow)
Thickened ceramic facing brick	25012088 2508588 (Euro)	3.2; 3.6-3.7 (hollow) 3.0-3.1 (hollow)
Clinker facing brick	25012065 2509065 2506065	4.2 (full) 2.2 (hollow) 1.7 (hollow)
Clinker facing brick (long)	52810837	3,75
Hyper-pressed (non-firing) brick, solid, smooth	25012065 2509065 2506065	4,2 2,0 4,0
Hyper-pressed (non-firing) brick, solid, smooth, thickened	25012088	6,0
Ceramic brick self made	1888863	1,9

Brick pillar laying

In most cases, fence posts are made of 1.5 or 2 bricks, cross-section 380*380 mm and 510*510 mm, respectively, up to 3 meters high.

It is best to do the masonry around a metal pipe, the base of which is concreted into the base of the foundation. The presence of long metal pipes (the entire height of the post) is mandatory for the posts on which the gates are attached; for the rest, you can lay shorter pipes so that the elevation above the top of the foundation is 300-500 mm, and then you can weld several rods with a diameter of 10 mm , but for pillars that support the gate, this option is unacceptable.

At least for the bottom 3 rows you need to use solid brick. For the remaining rows, hollow facing is also suitable, but in this case the solution should not be too liquid, otherwise it will fall into the cracks of the brick.

The masonry is carried out with dressing (displacement) - the seam of the bottom row is overlapped by the “body” of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. Scheme for laying columns in the photo:

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to “put” it in place. To ensure that the solution retains its plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to remove excess mortar from the surface of the masonry (it is removed immediately with a dry cloth). This method of laying pillars has long been proven, but for beginners, if they do it themselves, it will be difficult for them to maintain an even seam. The work will be much more convenient and faster if you use masonry under the rod: a metal rod with a side of 8-10 mm, cut into pieces (10-15 cm longer than the size of the post).

Having laid the first row, a rod is laid on it along the edge of the brick. Fill the area with a small amount of solution, with a larger layer being made closer to the pipe. Next, moving the trowel along the rod, remove the excess, clearing the rod of the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution is maintained. They place a brick and level it. At the same time, the rod prevents it from settling too much, and we control the position of the other end with a level.

Then take a short piece of rod about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), place it along the end surface, apply the mortar with a trowel to the side of the laid brick, also removing the excess along the rod. Place and level the next brick. After the brick is set to the required position, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical rod is removed.

Other problems that may arise when laying pillars with your own hands are changes in size or “twisting”. Both defects arise from insufficient control of the vertical position of the bricks being laid.

When laying pillars yourself, very often top rows become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, a millimeter or even less is added, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the width of the column can be 400 mm or more, instead of the planned 380 mm. Avoiding this mistake is to control the size of each row. Controlling the building level alone is not enough. Basically, a household tool (yellow) is used, and it has a fairly large error. And if the level is 60-80 cm long, you simply will not see minor vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - checking each row by size, or you can make a template according to size (for example, from even planks) with which to check for possible deviations.

Laying pillars yourself without experience in such work can lead to another mistake: the edges of the pillar can shift, while the pillar “twists” around its axis - try attaching spans to such pillars. Therefore, when laying each row, you must strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other. You can make the task easier by using two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guide, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

And finally, another fairly common mistake made by inexperienced craftsmen is the lack of mortgages for attaching gates, gates and fence sections. The result of forgetfulness is a very even and beautiful, but completely smooth pillar to which it is not possible to attach anything. Find out how to avoid such trouble below.

The type of mortgages depends on what the fence sections will be made from in the future. If it is brickwork, then the role of the mortgages is reduced to connecting the pillars and sections into one whole. Since there will not be any special weight load on them, it is enough to use wire loops 8 mm thick, laid in every fourth row on the side of the post to which the sections will be attached.

If the sections are made of corrugated sheets or wooden beam, that is, they will be attached only to poles; more durable mortgages are needed that can withstand their weight and additional loads that arise. In this case, metal plates are used that are welded at a certain height (or mounted in any other way) to a base post or reinforced frame, and a cut is made in the brick using a grinder in the right place.

In the future, purlins will be welded to the mortgages, and corrugated sheets, metal rods or other elements will be mounted on them.

Pillars from facing bricks must be treated with a special impregnation, which will cover it with a film and will serve as protection against the appearance of efflorescence (whitish stains) and subsequent destruction.

All is ready? Don’t rush to fasten the fence sections right away - the posts should stand for about three weeks, otherwise you can easily ruin all the previously done work.

About finials (caps) and fence parapets

Caps for protecting the masonry of brick fence supports

Here it is, your first DIY brick pillar. It is perfectly smooth, with seams of the same width, made according to all the rules - a sight for sore eyes! In order for the pole to remain that way for many years, the final touch is needed - a top (cap). The intake hood performs several functions at once:

Protects the brick from excess moisture, which will destroy it when frozen.
Protects concrete and metal base pipes located in the middle of the column. If they are not protected, then during rains the concrete will gradually crumble, and water, accumulating in the resulting depressions, will sooner or later reach the metal base.
And finally, the pommel gives the post a more attractive, finished look, serving as its decoration.

For brick pillars, metal caps are usually used, the size of which is selected so that they protrude several centimeters beyond the boundaries of the pillar. When choosing them, give preference to products without rivets, with well-processed tight joints that can provide reliable protection. In addition, the following requirements apply:

resistance to precipitation;
sufficient angle of inclination to prevent moisture accumulation;
Possibility of reliable and accurate fastening to the pole;
the presence of ventilation to prevent the formation of condensation.

If the spans between the pillars are also made of brick or concrete, then the top of the wall must be protected with special ones.

All metal elements of a brick fence can be ordered from us - send a request to

Any column structure, be it a canopy or a fence, must first of all be built in such a way that the finished structure can subsequently withstand increased loads. It is possible to obtain the desired effect only if, when choosing masonry products, you give preference to high-quality building materials of sufficient strength and reliability.

Taking into account the opinion of experts, it is best to erect columns from solid facing bricks, without damage to the surface or visible defects. You can also use halves of bricks, but only if on the surface building material also, all kinds of destruction will not be noticeable.

Brick columns are laid without multi-row lining. It is not at all necessary to carry out the analyzed type of strapping, since the structure in question is not monolithic.

Preparatory stage

In order for a brick column to serve a long service life, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology during its construction.

Compliance with the rules is mandatory for any structure, since even a minor violation can cause subsidence of a newly erected structure or even its complete destruction.

For the construction of brick columns, regardless of whether the structure is built with one and a half bricks or one, a three-row garter is used. This is explained quite simply - the single-row version requires more labor, and the multi-row one does not help create a structure that is strong and reliable.

As soon as a linear meter of the base is laid on high-quality cement mortar, The level of the masonry is checked, both vertically and horizontally. To do this, use a regular building level and any type of plumb line. To enhance the strength of the future structure, experts recommend using a special mesh for reinforcement. If the mesh will be used for masonry, you must ensure that the edges of the material are recessed inside the structure.

Before you begin laying the column, you should prepare required material and construction tools:

brick base and cement-sand mortar;
reinforcing mesh;
building level and plumb line;
a container in which you can mix cement and a spatula.

Before erecting the column, a foundation base is prepared, the size of which must correspond to the dimensions of the future structure. You need to install metal reinforcement or a pillar in the foundation, around which the column will be built.

Before you start making a brick column with your own hands, you should decide which method is best to use for construction - 2×2, 2×1.5, 2×2.5 solid bricks. According to experts, both the first and second masonry options can be used to build a fence column. The finished design will be reliable and without problems cope with the load that will fall on her in the future.

Laying a column of one and a half bricks is carried out in the following sequence:

For the first row you will need 6 bricks, which need to be laid out with their backs facing each other.
When laying the second row, two outer solid bricks and two halves of the base should be placed perpendicular to the first laid row. And lay the remaining 3 bricks in a parallel arrangement to each other.
4 bricks of the third row are laid in a perpendicular position to the bricks used to create the first row, in the so-called spoon. The remaining two bricks, positioned butting each other, are used to fill the resulting space.
To create the 4th row, the technology used in the third row is repeated, but only in a mirror image. To do this, simply visually turn the structure 380°.

When choosing a 2×2 column laying technology, you should adhere to the following rules:

To lay the first row you will need 3 pieces. facing bricks, laid using the “poke-to-poke” technology.
When laying the second row of bricks, the masonry is rotated horizontally by 90°.
When erecting the 3rd row, they repeat the technology of the first and so on.

If massive columns are being erected, according to experts, the space that forms between the steel reinforcement and the laid bricks must be filled.

When erecting several columns located close to each other, it is recommended to erect all columns simultaneously and sequentially. That is, first of all, lay the first row of bricks on each column and check the evenness of the masonry using a building
level and plumb. If nothing needs to be leveled, you can safely proceed to the construction of the second row and so on. If the technology for constructing columns is violated, this will lead to both a violation of symmetry parameters and an unevenly distributed load, which will subsequently be placed on nearby columns.

By following the recommendations and advice previously analyzed in the article, by erecting columns in stages from high-quality building material, every home craftsman will be able to cope with the task set for himself and will certainly enjoy the result.

When constructing columned structures, canopies, and fences, a high load is imposed on the structure itself. To do this, when constructing brick columns, high demands should be made on strength, structural stability and quality. When constructing columns, it is recommended to use only solid bricks without mechanical defects. Half bricks can also work, but also without visible damage.

Brick columns are laid without multi-row piping, since such a design does not provide solidity and strength. The tying is performed when using solid bricks in the structure, if the column cross-section is 2 x 2.

The design may provide for additional reinforcement using a steel rod or pipe inside the structure.

Column masonry

The construction of a brick column is carried out in compliance with a certain technology.

It must be observed precisely, since any violation can lead to subsidence of the brick column or destruction of the structure.

For columns, it is done individually and depends on the purpose of the structure, although its types do not differ in appearance. The brickwork of the columns is done in the form of a three-row garter, since the use of a single-row one causes large labor costs, and a multi-row one is not strong. For work, it is recommended to use durable mortar and solid brick. The position of each brick is controlled in both the vertical and horizontal planes. To do this, use a level and plumb line. To provide mechanical strength and stability of the structure, a reinforced mesh is used, which should not extend beyond the boundaries of the masonry.

Column design options:

load-bearing structures that take on large loads over the area of support on the foundation;
brick fences that accept loads in the vertical plane. The load can be different, for example, maximum when adjacent to a wicket gate or minimum when connecting fence sections.

Manufacturing of a column

The column is laid using the following technology. First of all, consumables are prepared:

brick;
cement-sand mortar;
fittings

Required tools:

putty knife;
plumb line, level;
solution container.

A foundation is prepared for the column, into which reinforcement or a metal pole is installed. A column is erected around the pillar.

The masonry is selected from three possible options: 2 x 1.5 bricks, 2 x 2 bricks, 2 x 2.5 bricks.

The first row is the most important; it needs to be done perfectly, because the further progress of the work will depend on it.

Laying 2 x 2 bricks is done in a certain sequence. The first row is laid out 3 bricks poke to poke. The second row is rotated 90 degrees horizontally. The third row is laid out similarly to the first and so on until the work is completed.

The columns are laid sequentially. After laying the first level, uniformity is checked using a rope.

When building several adjacent columns, it is recommended to carry out sequential actions. That is, they initially lay out the first rows of all columns, after which they control the horizon using a rope and a level. If necessary, leveling is carried out; subsequent control can be carried out when laying out 2-3 rows. Failure to comply with the technology can lead to violation of symmetry and uneven load on the columns.

To make your work easier, the following recommendations are offered:

to create a solid foundation, the first brick is strengthened in mortar in the corner of the future brick column, the second is laid next to the solid fixation;
at

Brick pillars give the fence of a suburban area solidity and make the fence more durable. They are quite applicable to almost all types of fence, serving as its support, and if desired, over time, the fencing material can be changed to another, completely changing the design. And the brick pillars themselves can be repainted, for example, in a different shade, and this will also be an update appearance fence But still, the main thing in brick fence supports is the reliability, strength and durability of the structure, which can last for many decades, and with proper laying and timely restoration, their service life is even difficult to estimate.

Any owner of the site should be able to build brick fence posts with his own hands. Of course, the process of erecting pillars by an inexperienced craftsman will not go as quickly as, say, a professional who is constantly engaged in this work, but you can save a decent amount on this.

A novice mason who decides to install a brick fence needs to carefully study the technology of this process, as well as find out in advance what tools need to be prepared and for what purpose.

Tools and accessories for work

Since it is very difficult to get by with ordinary improvised tools when performing any brickwork with “little effort,” it is necessary to prepare professional ones. In addition to them, you will need auxiliary devices that will help make the seams between the bricks perfectly even and neat.

So, for work you need the following “arsenal”:

Shovel and bayonet shovel. These tools are usually found in every private home, but if you have to purchase one, the money will not be spent in vain, since shovels will come in handy more than once for a variety of needs. In the process of erecting a fence, shovels have many functions - this includes preparing trenches for pouring the foundation, backfilling bulk materials, and preparing masonry mortar.
Container for solution. Since the brick pillars have enough big weight, they will have to build a foundation, which requires a considerable amount of solution, so the container must be quite voluminous. For example, an old bathtub or a large galvanized trough is quite suitable. If there are no such containers, then you will have to knock down a wooden box and line it from the inside with a galvanized metal sheet, in which it will be convenient to mix the solution. To make a box, dimensions of 1500×1000 mm are suitable; the height of the sides should be at least 200-250 mm, but there is no need to make them too high.

The issue will be resolved much easier if the farm has a concrete mixer, or if it is possible to rent one for the duration of construction work.

In addition to large capacity, you will also need a convenient smaller sizes. It will come in handy when laying bricks, as it is convenient to carry it to any part of the fence. A basin of 8 ÷ 10 liters is suitable.

Two galvanized buckets. One of them will be needed for water, which should always be at hand, and the second - for fine crushed stone or pebbles, which are used to fill the voids inside the brick pillars, if they have a large empty space.
Trowel and spatulas. The trowel is, in general, the most necessary tool in the work of a mason when laying bricks, he applies and removes excess mortar. A medium-sized spatula will help level the in the right places laid solution. Some craftsmen simply prefer to use it during masonry work.
Measuring tools - building level, angle, tape measure and plumb line. These tools will help you control the horizontality of rows, the verticality of supports and walls, the accuracy of angles, and measure the sides of pillars, their height and the distance between them.

Boers. Manual is cheap, but the work requires significant physical effort. A motor drill is an expensive tool, but it does the job extremely quickly and efficiently

A hand drill is useful for drilling wells (holes) to a tedious depth for installing metal supports. The foundation for the pillars must be buried deeper than the rest of the foundation strip, because the main load from the fence spans fixed between them will fall on the supporting elements.

Five reinforcing bars of round or square cross-section, size 8 × 8 or 10 × 10 mm (but only - all the same!). Four rods should have a length 150 ÷ 170 mm longer than the side of the square brick pillar, and another one should be 20, 25 mm longer than the thickness of the brick. With the help of these simple devices, you can maintain the same thickness of horizontal joints between rows of masonry and vertical joints between adjacent bricks.

Scaffolds or trestles are useful for laying masonry at the top of the posts, since they usually rise to a height of at least 1800 ÷ 2000 mm. The level of the stage above the ground should be approximately half this height. This device will help you work in more comfortable conditions, since next to you it will be quite possible to place several rows of bricks and a container with mortar, as well as all the tools necessary for work.

Fabric gloves with a rubberized working surface are comfortable for working with concrete.

When working with cement-based mortar, be sure to protect your hands rubberized gloves, since cement has a corrosive effect on the skin, especially if it has even very minor damage (wounds, scratches, inflammation, etc.).

Prices for building bricks

Construction brick

Main stages of work

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to drawing up a work plan, simultaneously writing down all the necessary materials in a separate list. The construction of brick pillars includes the following main stages of work:

Marking the future fence on the ground. Carrying out this process, determine the number of pillars and their location. It is necessary to take into account that the supports must be installed at the corners, on both sides of the gate or wicket, and on straight sections - at a distance of 2000÷2500 mm from each other.
Digging a trench and drilling holes for installing pillars and pouring a foundation.
Installation of metal supports around which the brickwork will be made. The pillars are embedded in the drilled holes using cement mortar.

This process will require: sand-cement mortar, crushed stone, sand, waterproofing material and a support pipe with a diameter of 100÷150 mm.

Brickwork of support pillars. For masonry you need mortar and brick.
Installation of ebb columns or roof caps on top.

Material calculation

You can make a calculation by exactly exactly, If pre-planned their different size in cross section. Most often, they are laid out in such a way that one side of the pillar consists of one and a half bricks, that is, 4 pieces are required for one row.

Standard size fired masonry brick is 120 × 250 mm. With the type of masonry indicated above, one side of a square pillar will have dimensions of 250 + 120 + 10 = 380 mm. The last value in the given amount, 10 mm, is the width of the seam.

The thickness of the brick is 65 mm and, taking into account the seams between the rows of masonry, for one column, 2000 mm high, approximately 108 of them will be required.

The calculation is made as follows:

65 + 10=75 mm – row thickness including seam;

2000: 75= 26.7 – number of rows; after rounding, there are 27 rows;

27 × 4 = 108 bricks - in this case, the number of rows is multiplied by the number of bricks in the row.

When making calculations, you need to take into account the fact that the bottom three ÷ four rows, according to all the rules, must be laid out of solid bricks. This is necessary so that the lower part of the support has more weight and good stability.

A metal pipe can be installed in the column cavity, which is embedded in the foundation. The number of pipes should be equal to the number of pillars, and they should have a height of 400 ÷ 600 mm greater than the height of the planned brick pillars, since they will be buried in the ground and foundation precisely by this difference.

The “filling” of a brick column can be from a pipe (in the figure - below), or from reinforcing bars (above)

Instead of pipes for supports, reinforcing metal rods Ø 12 ÷ 16 mm are often used, which are also fixed in the concrete of the foundation and connected to its reinforcing belt. For each pillar you need to plan from two to six rods of the required length.

Do you have experience doing brickwork?

If you have to do this for the first time, then it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the basic technological techniques in advance. About the rules of implementation - in a special publication on our portal.

Step-by-step instructions for building brick pillars

To understand the stages of work well, they need to be considered in detail. And then, when constructing the pillars, you can rely on these instructions, taking into account the specific features of your own fence installation plan.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The installation diagram for brick pillars looks something like this. The diagram shows the following elements in numbers: 1 – support pipe installed inside a brick structure; 2 – part of the pillar foundation, filled with a rough mortar made of sand, crushed stone and cement; 3 – strip foundation for laying the span between the pillars; 4 – top layer of foundation made of thin mortar of sand and cement; 5 – brickwork; 6 – protective covering (cap or ebb) of the pillar.
	First, the area where the fence will be installed is marked. It is carried out based on the existing site plan, on which the so-called “red line” is defined, along which the fence can be installed. The first step is to determine the reference point into which a peg or piece of reinforcement is driven, the width of the future trench under the foundation is determined, and the second one is driven at the required distance from the first peg.
	Two strings are stretched from the support points in the desired direction, which are stretched and also secured to reinforcement or stakes at the other end of the future fence. If the fence borders the area not on one, but on several sides, then the same marking by stretching the cords is made on all fenced sides. Next, on the strip marked with markings, a trench is dug for the general shallow foundation fence Its depth can vary from 250 to 300 mm. Taking into account the required thickness of the sand backfill, the depth of the trench is made 100 ÷ 150 mm more.
	After completing the digging of the trench, holes are drilled in it at a distance of 2000 ÷ 2500 mm from one another metal poles or reinforcing bars. The depth of the holes should be 500 ÷ 700 mm, and the diameter should be 150 ÷ 200 mm larger than the cross-section of the installed column. At the bottom of the trench, a sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is poured and compacted as much as possible.
	Before installing the support pipe there, it is recommended to prepare the hole by laying waterproofing material in it, and filling and compacting sand with a layer of 80 ÷ 100 mm at the bottom.
	The next step is to install a pipe - a stand - into the well, with metal crossbars fixed to it by welding from below and on the sides, the role of which can be played by sections of angles, pipes or thick fittings. After the concrete hardens, they will ensure the stability of the stand and will not allow the pipe to sag over time under the influence of load.
	The column is set strictly vertically according to the level or plumb line, and is fixed in the desired position. Then, a rough solution consisting of concrete and crushed stone is poured into the hole around the post. It needs to be compacted so that there are no air voids left in it.
	After the concrete around the racks has hardened, a reinforcement structure is installed in the trench, which is fastened with twisted wire and in the same way connected to the racks in their middle part. Next, they move on to assembling the formwork for the entire foundation strip. The formwork is raised to the required height and its bottom and walls are lined waterproofing material so that the concrete solution does not seep between the boards, and the moisture from it does not go into the soil.
	Next, the formwork is filled with concrete mortar. It is recommended to carry out this process in one approach, and if the fence is long and the formwork is high enough, then a lot of solution will be required. Therefore, it will be almost impossible to get that amount of concrete at once if you mix it by hand. There are two ways out of this situation - rent a concrete mixer or order a ready-made solution from a specialized company. You need to walk over the concrete poured into the formwork with a bayonet shovel - it is used to pierce the solution every 200÷250 mm. This process must be carried out in order to free the still plastic concrete from air bubbles that may form during pouring. After this, the surface of the concrete is leveled according to the rule, and the structure is left to harden and gain strength - this process takes quite a long time, the work can be continued only after 20 ÷ 28 days, depending on the thickness and height of the foundation. In order for the foundation to be strong, starting from the second day after pouring, it must be watered daily for 10 ÷ 14 days.
	Stripping can be done after one to two weeks, depending on the air temperature. In order not to waste the time remaining until the tape is fully matured, you can do some operations with the metal stands.
	All metal racks are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers. They are fixed at a height of approximately 350 ÷ 400 mm from the foundation and from the top of the posts, maintaining a horizontal level. Additionally, you can install a jumper in their middle part. These elements together will give the frame rigidity, which is very important for the design of the fence.
	After the fence frame is ready and the foundation has gained strength, you can move on to bricklaying the pillars. The brick is laid around the supporting metal posts. The mortar for laying bricks must be uniform and thin, that is, the sand included in its composition is sifted through a sieve with small cells.
	But, before applying the mortar to the foundation, metal pieces of reinforcing rod are laid on its edges, along the perimeter of the future brick row. With their help, the same thickness of the seams is maintained throughout the entire masonry. The rod is laid on all four sides. Then, holding it, the solution is applied to the area where the masonry will be done and leveled to the thickness of the rod. Next, a brick is laid on top of the mortar and rod, the evenness of which is controlled using a building level. If necessary, the brick is tapped with a rubber hammer to achieve its ideally precise position.
	To maintain the width of the vertical joints between the bricks, a piece of rod is also placed at the level of its outer edge. Then, the side of the brick is coated with mortar, holding the rod, and the next brick is laid.
	Having aligned and leveled the brick, the vertical rod is removed from the seam and installed to the edge of the newly laid brick. This side is again coated with mortar, and a third brick is laid on it, and then, according to the same scheme, a fourth.
	After completing the laying of the row, all the rods are removed from the seams, leaving between the bricks on the outside of the masonry a narrow empty space of equal thickness, which, after laying three ÷ four rows, must be filled with mortar and smoothed out - “jointing” using a special tool.
	Next, the process is repeated cyclically - rods are placed on the finished row of masonry, mortar is applied and bricks are laid. This continues until the pole is raised to the desired height.
	After laying the last row of brick pillar, it top part needs to be formatted correctly. If a metal pipe has an unsealed hole on top, it must be closed so that less moisture enters the cavity. Therefore, it is most often covered with a metal plate, and cement mortar is applied on top of it.
	After this, a roof is mounted on top of the pillar, which is usually chosen together with the material installed in the spans between the pillars. The metal cap is usually secured to the pillar walls using dowels. Concrete castings can also be used - then they are installed on the solution. After completing the design of the posts on top, you can proceed to installation of the fence spans themselves on the metal lintels.

What type of fence is suitable for brick posts? .

Detailed instructions for all listed types - on the pages of our portal.

It should be noted that some craftsmen do without installing reinforcing metal posts inside a brick structure, especially in cases where the pillars have big size in cross section. Instead of racks, fine crushed stone or pebbles are poured into the column cavity, which are then filled with cement mortar that is liquid in consistency.

Backfilling is done as the pillar is raised. So, for example, having laid 5 ÷ 6 rows, the internal cavity is filled and poured, then another 5 ÷ 6 rows of masonry go on and so on until the very top.

It is necessary to decide in advance how the brick pillars will be installed, and depending on this, purchase the required amount of materials.

What about the gates?

Once a fence is being built, it means that it is necessary to immediately plan the construction of the gate. There are also many options here. You can do simple ones. Anyone who likes more complex tasks will certainly like the design. Detailed instructions are on the pages of our portal.

Making any kind of brickwork is not as easy as it seems at first glance, especially if you have no experience in this work. Therefore, before you start laying out pillars or walls, it is recommended to practice and first lay a flat brick wall dry, and then with mortar in a place that will not be noticeable. Well, if everything goes well, the work will be done done yourself, you will be able to save a very decent amount.

Don't have enough money for brick pillars?

It's okay - you can slowly accumulate material, but for now it's simple. Cover them brickwork it will be possible later.

And at the end of the publication - video master class for the construction of brick fence posts.