DIY house building. How to build a house inexpensively

There are more and more people wanting to settle outside the city or in a small town. In megacities it is stuffy, mentally and physically, from the inhaled air and extraneous noise. I would like, if not to move out completely, then to acquire a corner of outdoor recreation. As you know, we do not suffer from excess funds, so the problem arises: how to build a house inexpensively? In a private house you will have to put more effort into housekeeping and maintaining it will cost a little more than paying for utilities for a city apartment of equal size, but a healthy lifestyle is worth it. And if you start at least a small backyard garden with a greenhouse, then, without breaking a sweat, individual housing can be made generally profitable.

Is it cheap and fast?

A private residential building in the budget price segment may well be comfortable, warm, and reliable. And if your hands grow as they should and there is a desire to use them correctly, then you will look respectable, see fig. However, building a house cheaply is not everything. There are already almost 7.5 billion people on Earth and everything is coming. Our “ball” is not rubber, so it would be simply naive to expect that property taxes and land rents will somehow decrease over time.

Therefore, the most cheap house not necessarily the one whose construction will cost less: when choosing material for the house (see below), design, etc., you must keep in mind further operating costs. Especially if the construction is carried out on credit, you need to start repaying it immediately. Those., great importance acquires a period from the start of construction until the house is ready for occupancy: while construction is going on, there will be no time to find additional income, but you have to pay for your previous housing and take out the next loan payment.

The conclusion is obvious: Having planned to build, first of all we figure out how long we will spend until the house is completely ready? This point can be significant even for a fairly experienced builder, if you need to decide whether to build it yourself or entrust some of the construction stages to a conscientious contractor with established production and well-equipped technical equipment. Savings from a reasonable distribution of cash and/or available funds according to the stages of home readiness (see below) for contract and manual work can significantly exceed all other possible items and will certainly make the choice of the main structural material of the house and its foundation - the foundation much easier.

What is a budget house?

We will consider a budget house to be a house whose construction until it is fully ready (see below), but without heating, cooking and plumbing fixtures, will cost 10,000 rubles. for 1 sq. m of total area or less. A house with 100 total square meters in this case will cost up to 1 million rubles. or ok. $18,000 at today's exchange rate (2019). In certain local conditions, it is possible to reduce the cost of construction to 5500-6000 rubles. per square; if you build completely with your own hands, slowly and only for your own; if you have inexpensive previous housing, then it is possible to meet the cost of 4,500 rubles. per square meter, but cheaper is already a fiction, no matter who promises anything. Good contractors for 3000 rubles. You can still find it for a square meter, but it’s turnkey, and it will take at least the same amount to bring the house to full readiness.

Note: The figures given, as well as those further in this article, are averages for the Russian Federation. Here it is appropriate to recall an old joke, which is now reinterpreted in its own way in almost all countries: a nobleman gorges himself on meat, a peasant only has enough for bread. On average, they eat a meat pie for two. So, finally, look at the prices at home - it is impossible to give a complete overview of them in one publication, and the market situation may change the next day after its publication. Here we primarily provide information on how to use technical and organizational measures to build a house cheaply and quickly without compromising its quality.

About the number of floors

The problem of taxes and land rent can be largely solved, firstly, by building a 2-story house, which will save on land payments. Some prejudice against the upper floors in individual houses left over from Soviet times, when private construction of more than 1.5 floors was strictly prohibited. There is no point in building a budget 3-story building anymore: the staircase will have to give up too much usable space, and strengthen the walls of the 1st floor, which will greatly complicate, lengthen and increase the cost of the work. And in a 2-story building, the staircase to the 2nd, sleeping floor can lead directly from the living room or hallway/hall.

Secondly, you can also significantly reduce your property tax yourself on a completely legal basis by creating a sleeping mezzanine in the form of a Siberian attic. The diagram of the pediment of a frame residential building with a Siberian attic is given in Fig. on right. Not everyone likes houses with Siberian attics because of the faceted roof, but in fact they are economical and convenient, and in budget construction there is no time for exquisite architectural solutions. For budget frame house(see below) the Siberian attic is practically the only opportunity to increase its actual number of floors.

Note: for a house made of foam or gas blocks, there is another non-trivial opportunity to increase its living space without a significant increase in taxation and land rent, see below. This factor may be decisive in regions where 2 or more storey individual construction is prohibited due to natural conditions, eg. in seismically dangerous places or on permafrost.

Stages of home readiness

The stage (stage) of readiness of a residential building for occupancy means a completely completed cycle/complex construction work, after which the structure can wait for the next stage to begin for a certain or indefinitely long time. A technological break between stages is most often necessary for shrinkage of structures from the previous cycle, but sometimes (see below) is unacceptable or possible only in the warm, dry season. Work at the next stage of construction can be carried out either independently or under contract from the same or another contractor, regardless of how the previous one was completed. The stages of bringing a budget residential building to completion are as follows:

• Zero, or zero cycle - the foundation has been laid, has gained at least 75% strength and has given the calculated settlement. This is the most critical, complex and time-consuming stage, at which it most often turns out to be advisable to hire an experienced contracting team. Technical break before next. stage is necessary in any case.
• Box - there are walls with openings for windows and doors, covered with a roof. Load-bearing partitions were also erected inside. Communications have been established, but are currently muted. A mandatory technical break is required only for heavy (brick, stone, concrete) buildings due to their own shrinkage. In budget construction, the box stage as such is most often not highlighted, and for a house made of SIP panels it is completely excluded.
• Turnkey - the doors and windows are in place, the frame is stable. The house can winter up to several times. It is possible that the floors have also been laid, but the communications are not connected, there is no interior finishing or insulation. The favorite bait of overly cunning contractors is “cheapness,” so at this stage you need to especially carefully calculate how much it will cost you to eat while performing the remaining work, as well as their cost, and compare it with the price of bringing the house to full readiness by hired workers.
• Complete - communications are connected, stationary household appliances are in place and ready for use. Interior decoration made, but external and insulation may not be provided for by the terms of the contract (see below). The kitchen, bathroom and boiler/furnace room are fully equipped, you can cook, wash, start the boiler and heat. All that remains is to bring and arrange furniture, lay carpets, hang curtains, paintings, arrange trinkets, etc., so that you can live in the house without bothering you.

About contractors

A bona fide contractor, firstly, must be properly registered legally - as an individual entrepreneur, LLC, etc.; Accordingly, he must immediately, without a reminder, present to the customer a package of documents confirming state registration. No special licenses are required for ordinary construction work; professional certificates (“credentials”; now cards) of performing workers are sufficient.

Secondly, the customer must be offered a contract on paper. An offer (public standard) or individual, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that the rights and obligations of the parties must be clearly stated there. Thirdly, the warranty period for this stage (stages) of work and the conditions for compliance with warranty obligations must also be indicated there.

Good contractors on a budget offer a 2-5 year guarantee. Less is not possible due to technical interruptions. In good conscience, it’s also impossible to do more, because... local operating conditions of the building may change for the worse. They can be taken into account (“incorporated” constructively) by using more expensive materials and technical solutions, but this will no longer be budget construction.

About extensions

In popular sources and contractors' brochures, you can come across recommendations in your mind, accompanied by preliminary (without location) designs: they say, first we build a 6x9 house very cheaply, and then, as we accumulate funds, add more rooms to it ( original layout allows) until the children and grandchildren are left with a huge mansion. This approach is fundamentally wrong.

Anyone more or less familiar with construction knows that adding a residential building to an existing one is a complex and not always feasible technical task. First, old foundation has already completely settled, and the new one will give the calculated shrinkage only under the weight of the supported structure. That is, the extension cannot be immediately tightly attached to the main structure; you need to wait to see if cracks appear and seal them. In the common RuNet, it is difficult to find publicly available information about extensions to existing buildings; You can look for a small but sensible book by Dr. tech. sciences Ferenc Sägi “How to avoid mistakes when building an individual house.” There was a Russian translation, M., Stroyizdat, 1987. It’s funny - this little book then cost 90 kopecks. Soviet

Third, even if the house is made of rubber on a gimbal, it is unacceptable to allow it to sway and sway in time with the seasonal movements of the soil from year to year. Under a house built on a correctly chosen and laid foundation, a kind of virtual (invisible) warm “pit” is formed, in which it is never below zero; the blind area around the house expands it to the sides. An extension to a house can disrupt the established thermal balance of the load-bearing soil, which can lead to accidents in the main building. Therefore, conscientious contractors set one of the guarantee conditions - no extensions not agreed with them.

Garage in the house, or the role of layout

One of the ways to get an inexpensive house for the available living space is permanent residence– build a house on a common foundation with a garage. Perhaps this is only for houses made of non-combustible materials; regarding the budget ones - foam and gas blocks, otherwise the firefighters will not allow the project to be approved or the squatter construction to be legalized.

However, simply attaching a garage to the house, as on the left in the figure, does not make much sense; it will do almost nothing to save costs on the construction and further maintenance of the house. It is necessary to introduce a garage of a standard size of 4X7 m inside into the structural scheme of the house, taking into account the following:

1. there is no need to put a garage on a plinth, because then you will have to build an access ramp to it;
2. the ceiling height in the garage is permissible 2.5 and even 2.2 m, less is simply not possible;
3. It is highly desirable to have an entrance to the garage from the house, but then it is only permissible from the hallway/hall and should have a steam-tight fire-resistant door.

In this case, the garage floor slab will serve as the floor of a one and a half floor, less taxable, but quite spacious. For an example of this type of layout, see the right in Fig. The space utilization rate there is not so great, but there are a lot of amenities:

• A one-and-a-half superstructure is not an extension; no special measures are required for its construction on an existing, established building, i.e. You can build on the garage later, as your family grows.
• The staircase to the one and a half floor is low and fits into the existing hall without any difficulties.
• Heating a garage can also be done without problems, and economically, because... it is slightly heated from the hall and kitchen.
• In the lobby of the 1.5th floor, a pressure tank of an autonomous water supply is perfectly located under the ceiling; You can also move the dressing room there, increasing the area of ​​the living room and bathroom.
• Since the bedroom floor is heated to some extent, in turn, from the garage, it can be done with a French window even in a fairly harsh climate.
• One wall of the basement is shared with the garage. Communications are, of course, in the basement. That is, a sewer riser can go from the bedroom to the basement, to which a washbasin, shower and even a jacuzzi are connected upstairs.
• Access to the basement is also internal, through a hatch in the hall or from the garage.

Agree, a house for 4-5 people with a separate dressing room, a living room of more than 25 square meters and a French bedroom, which also has a hydromassage - this is really cool. And the total area on earth is much less than 180 square meters. m, from which increased taxation begins. Even if in your state the basic area norm is 150-160 square meters. m, the tax authorities will still have to register the house as budget.

Foundation and soil

When choosing the foundation of a house or checking the option proposed by a contractor, you need to take into account the geology and soil mechanics of the construction site. The soil mobility factors that most affect the cost of a house foundation are:

1. Load bearing capacity.
2. Degree of heaving (amount of frost heaving).
3. Standard freezing depth (NFD).
4. The highest height of groundwater.

Load-bearing capacity and heaving

Massive, low-cost development is possible on non-heaving and slightly heaving soil with a bearing capacity of up to 0.7 kg/sq.m. cm, but only based on the results of thorough preliminary surveys over the entire building area with a decent margin at the edges. An experienced contractor can build a separate reliable house on medium-heaving soil with a bearing capacity of 1.1-1.3 kg/sq. m. Self-construction can be done on soil up to medium heaving with a normal load-bearing capacity of 1.7 kg/sq. cm or higher. On heavily and excessively heaving soils, budget development is impossible with rare exceptions (see below).

Note: The bearing capacity of the soil directly at the building site can be determined on your own without complex instruments, but how is a separate article.

Oil and gas reserves and groundwater

Some potentially budget houses cannot be built on a shallow foundation (see below). The heel (sole) of the foundation must be buried below the NGP by at least 0.6 m on medium heaving soils and by at least 0.3 m on slightly heaving and non-heaving soils. The base of the foundation should not reach the groundwater level by 0.5 m or more. Typical limiting cases for budgetary development: dry sandy loam (slightly heaving), NGL 1.5 m, standing water 2.5 m; foundation depth 1.8-1.9 m. Or - moderately moistened podzol (medium heaving), NGP 1.2 m, standing water 3.5 m. Foundation depth from 1.8 m.

What if there is a fire?

The question of what would be cheaper to build a house in a given location must be decided taking into account the fire danger. Hoping for the best and preparing for the worst is a universal principle, and the harmfulness (or compliance) of firefighters here ranks fifth to seventh after their own safety. Regarding possible damage from fire, the properties of materials for budget construction are divided as follows. way:

• Fire safety (this is not the opposite of fire hazard) - how difficult this material set fire and whether it is capable of burning outside the source of ignition. In fact, is it possible to extinguish a timely detected fire using improvised means without significant damage to the structure of the building.
• Fire resistance - how long a material can resist fire without losing mechanical properties before the structure collapses and/or without emitting toxic gases. In fact, how much time do you have, if extinguishing on your own is impossible, to evacuate and remove property.
• Fire resistance - how much, after being in a fire for at least 20 minutes, the material restores its properties. In fact, suddenly the frame of the house is completely burnt out, is it possible to refurbish it as housing?

Materials

Now it's time to choose material for a home in the budget price category. Houses made of brick, corrugated timber and chamber-dried logs are, unfortunately, excluded from the budget category. They have a lot of advantages and relatively few disadvantages, but you can move into a brick house no earlier than the 3rd year from the beginning of zero: a year to settle the expensive buried foundation, a year to shrink the frame, and only then can it be delivered turnkey, plus time for the interior finishing. In addition, at current energy prices, a brick house requires expensive external insulation.

Note: houses made of wood concrete (fibre-reinforced concrete), reeds, straw blocks, etc. are not considered, because their reliability has not yet been confirmed by time and there is no established construction industry for their construction.

Chambered corrugated timber and logs, impregnated with harmless antiseptics and fire retardants, are expensive in themselves and require solid carpentry experience to build a residential building. The houses from them are considered prestigious; as a result, the cost of work is high. Also, prefabricated panel houses do not fit into the budget category: they are erected very quickly, but their construction requires qualified personnel and a high degree of mechanization of work. Given these circumstances, the choice of widely available materials is quite limited. To compare the cost completely finished house per unit (100%) can be taken frame house from non-glued laminated timber and conventional air-dried boards. The result looks like this. way:

• Country wooden frame house made only from boards – 0.6-0.8
• House on a thin-walled steel frame - 0.85-0.9.
• Residential wooden frame house made of timber and boards – 1.00.
• A log house made from ordinary air-dried timber is 1.4-1.8.
• House made of SIP panels – 1.9-2.00.
• House made of foam or gas blocks - 2.00-2.15.

Frames and timber

The general advantages of and are low sensitivity to ground movements, they “play” with it. Therefore, it is possible to build such houses on a shallow columnar foundation, which is the simplest and cheapest. It is also possible to build a residential frame/timber budget house on highly heaving, weak soil by laying piles underneath it. strip foundation TISE. A 2-story frame house cannot be built without a detailed design, but in budget construction this problem is solved by the Siberian attic, see above.

A log house is good because in regions with fairly mild winters it does not require additional insulation: a 200 mm thick beam is equivalent to brickwork at 600 mm. Internal cladding in both log and frame houses can be made of plywood or non-combustible materials: chipboard, OSB. Exterior sheathing made of OSB (oriented strand board, OSB, Oriented Strand Board) will give the house additional rigidity in the wind and resistance to weather conditions. The plaster inside is dry here and there, with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) on shingles (15-20) x 40 mm; It is impossible to sheathe gypsum boards without sheathing even on completely flat walls.

The design of a timber frame house is well known (on the left in the figure). Without impregnation with biocides and fire retardants (which can be done independently), all the fire-fighting qualities of such houses are low, and fire resistance is generally zero; they burn completely. Fire safety and fire resistance can be increased to acceptable (10-15 minutes for evacuation) if the insulation is made with ecowool (cellulose insulation). It will cost approx. 25% more expensive than mineral wool, but when heated, ecowool releases a lot of water vapor that retards fire. In addition, ecowool prevents wood from rotting: it contains an antiseptic - borax. Ecowool that gets wet does not fall off and retains 75% of its insulating qualities, while when it dries, it completely restores them. Ecowool insulation is possible manually without experience; no fasteners or sheathing are required. Hydro- and vapor barriers for ecowool need inexpensive, simplified ones. Estimated service life of an all-wood frame or timber house with and without mineral wool insulation external cladding is 25-40 years depending on the quality of wood and local conditions; the same with ecowool insulation - up to 70 years or more.

Inexpensive dacha house with frame construction measuring approx. up to 4x6 m it is possible to build from just boards with your own hands without experience, just like air drying lumber. But if the total area of ​​the house exceeds approx. 25 sq. m and/or the number of openings in it is more than 3-4, it must be built by an experienced carpenter. In this case, the frame of the house is needed with the main load-bearing elements made of timber from 150x150 mm.

First, it is impossible to place window and door openings in a house, any size of which exceeds 6 m, at random. Computer programs are of little help here: you need to enter initial data into them and choose a calculation method based on your own experience. There is no computer construction program that would “do everything itself” yet.

Secondly, a residential frame/timber house must have at least two load-bearing partitions. Their location can be taken from a standard project, but a beginner is unlikely to be able to correctly connect the partitions to the external walls; especially if the house is made of timber.

In a log house built without experience, the problem of caulking may arise. Only a very experienced specialist can reject timber that is highly susceptible to warping when purchasing. If seasonal country house if it splits, the problem is small, the cracks can simply be plugged. In a large residential building with cracked walls, it will be possible to survive 1-2 winters, spending a lot on heating, and then it will quickly fall into disrepair due to weakening of the structure.

Houses on a thin-walled steel frame (on the right in the figure) may be somewhat cheaper than solid wood ones, but this is an apparent cheapness. The main thing is that the fire resistance of houses on a thin-walled steel frame is zero: in a fire, the frame instantly (in less than 3 minutes) loses strength, and the house collapses. In addition, it is very difficult to take into account the fatigue of elements of a complex thin-walled structure, and cases of sudden collapse of such houses for no apparent reason are not isolated in the world. In general, the service life of 100-120 years declared by manufacturers is not maintained, therefore, in a number of countries, building on steel frame Only non-residential small architectural forms are allowed.

SIP

A structural insulated panel (SIP, Structural Insulated Panel) is a cake made from slabs of plywood or OSB with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or polyurethane foam between them. SIPs made from OSB and polyurethane foam are suitable for residential construction; SIPs filled with EPS fill emit huge amounts of toxic gases in a fire. The main advantages of SIP houses are, firstly, the speed and ease of construction, see video:

Video: example of building a house from SIP

The time it takes to bring a SIP house to move-in readiness is further reduced by the fact that they can be built on a shallow foundation such as a Swedish or Finnish slab. These foundations are cheap, their “ripening” period is within the warm season, so a slab foundation for a house made of SIP can be ordered/laid with a reserve for future extensions or for a large veranda, see fig. on right. The exterior decoration of a house made of SIP can be anything and it will look more than decent, see there.

Equally important is that SIPs themselves are an excellent heat insulator and a house made from them does not require additional insulation. The disadvantages of SIP houses include the need for a ventilation system, because the walls don't breathe. In Russian conditions, it is significant that houses made of SIP are unsuitable for stove heating, the filler of the panels heats up and gradually emits toxic substances. Manufacturers also claim that the service life of SIPs is short, 40-70 years. Finally, the SIP box cannot be left over the winter; the house must be built at least turnkey during the warm season.

Foam blocks and gas blocks

You can very inexpensively, doing construction on weekends, put it together with glue from spring to late summer, without being a mason at all; She will be able to overwinter once under a roof and wrapped in film. There is no need for a technical break to shrink the box.

The main enemies of a foam/gas block house are, firstly, moisture. There are plenty of pores for condensation in its walls, and it is difficult and time-consuming to dry a damp house made of foam/gas blocks. Therefore, in this case, complete (and expensive) vapor barrier is needed both outside and inside (there are household fumes and from breathing) and good external thermal insulation that “prevents” the dew point from entering the walls. As a consequence, the statement that a house made of foam/gas blocks breathes is, to put it mildly, just talk. Who lived in such a house is unlikely to argue.

In fact, the only way to 100% prevent dampness in a house made of foam/gas blocks in any conditions is a ventilated façade. Which works great, but is by no means relevant to budget construction. Comfortable and even luxury houses from foam/gas blocks can and are being built, but in warm regions and not in the budget segment.

The second enemy of a foam/gas block house is the natural wear and tear of concrete. Let's say it chips only 0.01 mm per year. In this case, it will take 300-400 years before the reinforcement in the concrete monolith is exposed, which can be ignored in the calculations of conventional buildings. But the partitions between the pores of foam/gas blocks are about 1 mm, and their safety margin of 100% will be exhausted in 20-25 years, because destruction comes from 2 sides. Therefore, the estimated service life of a house made of foam blocks or gas blocks of up to 60-100 years is clearly exaggerated. Confirmation of this is the massive (and unsuccessful) sale of aerated concrete villas in Spain, not even by cost minus depreciation, but by how much they will take. When we were building, we forgot about the microwear of the blocks, and now what to do with all this?

Summing up

So, taking into account all the accompanying circumstances, we have few options for truly budget-friendly construction:

• The main one is an all-wood frame house, insulated with ecowool.

Without the financial resources to attract professional builders, you can, armed with special literature and patience, build a house yourself. In practice, this requires effort, but can save up to half the construction cost.

Many self-builders invite others to view their projects and provide detailed reports, accompanying the process of building a house with detailed photographs.

Features of the house layout

Through the efforts of two men, a cheap house for permanent residence with an attached garage was built. Initially, the project did not include a garage and was added after the house was completed.

In general, the project changed as the discussion progressed on the advice of other builders and the requests of the wife. The original layout of the house included 6 rooms on two floors.

During construction, it was decided to equip two bathrooms, while on the ground floor the toilet and bathtub should be separate. The area of ​​the living room and the location of the stairs have also changed. Compared to the initial project, the living room was too narrow and elongated. The stairs were also planned to be awkward and steep. After the changes, these shortcomings were eliminated.

The cost of building a house with your own hands

In May 2010, the father of a small family planned to build a cheap house with his own hands for the amount of 300 thousand rubles. This amount included costs not only for materials, but also for connecting gas and electricity. According to the estimate, the following expenses were incurred:

1. Concrete - 20,700.
2. Edged and unedged timber - 70,000.
3. Foam plastic - 31,200.
4. Plywood - 8023.
5. Metal profile - 16,200.
6. Siding - 22,052.
7. Used windows - 4000.
8. Nails, screws, etc. - 15,000.
9. Delivery of material and excavator services - 5200.
10. Septic tank - 10,000.
11. Plumbing, radiators - 35,660.
12. GKL and finishing costs - 21280.
13. Design and installation of a gas pipeline, connection fee - 37,000.
14. Gas equipment (stove, boiler) - 29,000.
15. Electrical connection with materials - 3000.
16. Water supply connection - 2000.

According to the builder himself, the estimate lacks a number of small items. However, this also requires additional costs. It should also be noted that some of the windows were received from friends and did not require financial expenses. In total, 327,315 rubles were spent on the construction of the house without any small details. This amount does not include the attached garage. It was added later according to a separate estimate. Additionally, the construction of the garage required an amount of about 34,000 rubles. Taking into account unspecified expenses, the house cost no more than 400 thousand rubles.

Installation of a shallow strip foundation

The foundation is pre-planned with a width of 35 cm and a height above the ground of 25 cm and 20 cm below the ground. A die-cut section of 2.5x100 mm was chosen as a reinforcing element. The reinforcement of the tape was planned in 2 layers, top and bottom, with three connected sheets of die-cutting in each.

On the advice of experienced builders, vertical elements were added, and the number of sheets to be connected was increased to 5 pieces. Additionally, the height of the foundation above the ground increased and amounted to 45 cm.

reinforcement with die-cutting - you can’t do that!

After the foundation was poured, 20 anchor bolts for mounting the bottom trim.

Construction of the first floor

Before installing the walls of the first floor, the platform was installed and insulated and pipes for the sewerage system were laid. The bottom of the platform is left open, the insulation is fixed by means of fixed cuttings of boards. 3 layers of foam plastic, 15 cm thick, were used as platform insulation. The subfloor is made of 150x50 mm boards.

The walls were installed in a horizontal position. Foam plastic and 8 mm plywood protection are laid between the racks, and windows are also installed. The windows in the project were used second-hand. Installation of the assembled wall into a vertical position was carried out by two men. It was decided to abandon the installation of jibs in the construction of the walls. The builder assumed that the frame would be sufficiently rigid due to the plywood sheathing.

After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of internal partitions was carried out. Polystyrene foam was also used as insulation.

The principle of assembling the second floor

After installing the frame, a temporary floor from unedged boards was partially laid and the walls were assembled horizontally and installed vertically. Second-floor windows were also used.

To increase sound insulation in the interfloor ceiling, non-woven cloth was laid on the floor joists under the boards. This allows you to partially dampen vibration from steps.

Installation of rafters and roofing

Upon completion of the assembly of the walls of the attic floor, the rafter system was installed. The rafter overhangs were not extended. An inch board was used as lathing. The roof was covered with corrugated sheets 4 m long.

Exterior decoration of the building

Siding was used for the exterior of the building. It was mounted with a ventilation gap of 25 mm. Also at the stage of exterior finishing, a vestibule was added. The foundation for the vestibule was not installed; the structure was installed on pieces of concrete laid on the ground and sidewalk curbs.

Features of the staircase and its installation

The location of the staircase in the project caused a lot of controversy. Initially, its location suggested excessive emphasis on the attic ceiling. After changing the location and design of the staircase, it was made without a platform with slight turns.

The staircase is made of boards 50x150 mm, the width of the steps is 30 cm. The staircase was installed after the rough finishing of the first floor. Under the upper span there is space left for installing a toilet there. According to personal feelings, the staircase turned out to be comfortable and compact.

Interior decoration of the house

Before the finishing of the premises began, insulation of the interfloor ceiling and flooring of the second floor were completed. To increase the level of sound insulation, felt is nailed between the joists and floor boards. After this, rough finishing of the interior of both floors of the cheap house was completed.

The rough finishing included three points:

1. Installation of fiberboard as a wind barrier.
2. GVL installation.
3. Puttying joints and chips of GVL.

In the finishing process, water-based paint was predominantly used. The living room, kitchen and bedrooms are painted in different colors. The floors in the rooms are covered with linoleum, the ceilings are decorated with expanded polystyrene tiles.

Build a house from scratch with your own hands: what is required, cost, recommendations. Most of us really want to have a private home. This will be the very place that you will want to return to again and again after a hard day and spend the evenings with your family. If you decide to build your own home, you have two options. The first is to take a house design and adapt it to the location where construction will take place. The second is to develop a project with your own hands (or using the help of specialists). Most likely, you are interested in how to build a house from scratch with your own hands so that it ultimately meets your expectations and requirements? To answer this question, you should consider in detail all stages of construction, which will allow you to distribute the stages of construction.

So, you still decided to build Vacation home or cottage? Fabulous! But first, let's look at a few particularly important issues that are associated with future construction.

Construction stages

If you want to build a house from scratch, and for it to be truly durable, reliable and beautiful, then be guided by the sequence of construction work. Let's look at each of their stages in turn.

Creation of project documentation

This point is the most important, since it represents the basis of construction. In this case, every little detail should be taken into account. You need to decide what size your home should be. This will make it possible to calculate the approximate amount of building material that will be required and the cost. You should also pay attention to such an issue as the thickness of the walls. The fact is that the external area of ​​the house will always be larger than the internal one, and for this reason it should be targeted to obtain a high-quality result.

Consider how communications will be placed. These include drainage of water and even laying electrical network. Do not underestimate such a moment as the load-bearing elements and decoration of the house. With the help of design, you can successfully locate the house on the plot of land you purchased.

Note, that before starting to lay the house, a geological survey of the area should be carried out. This is far from a whim, but a necessity, since it is thanks to it that it will be possible to determine the type of soil on which the cottage will be built and the location of groundwater. Do not skimp on this procedure, since the durability and strength of the building as a whole will depend on the foundation chosen based on the test results.

Pouring the foundation

It is also important to clear the entire construction area of ​​debris. After the cleaning work, you can start digging a trench. Please note that its depth should be more than 1 meter and its width approximately 0.35 meters. You should also take into account such an indicator as the height difference. After this, install the formwork, and then the metal reinforcing elements. Only after this can concrete be poured. By the way, concrete mixture You can prepare it yourself, or you can buy it ready-made at any hardware store.

The main thing when building the foundation of a house from scratch with your own hands is to remember that it is the concrete foundation that determines the endurance and durability of the house. This will be your starting point, which can have a great influence on future construction.

There are several types of foundation:

So, if you want to build a house with a basement, but your area has a high tendency for basements to flood, feel free to choose a slab foundation. With its help you can easily build ground floor. A strip foundation has both advantages and disadvantages, but construction experts admit that a strip foundation is several times better than a slab foundation. It can be safely laid on soil with high water content.

A columnar foundation is ideal when you plan to build a wooden house. If you want a brick house, it is better to choose a different type of foundation. Building a columnar foundation is a little more complicated than the two previous options. But keep in mind that if you do not follow all the features of laying the foundation, the grillage may crack.

Choosing walls and roof

You can begin this stage of house construction immediately after the foundation has dried. The manufacture of walls and roof should be considered as one whole. Sometimes even wood is used to make walls. Remember that in this case it is very important that the walls are smooth. For this reason, there is little theoretical knowledge; skill is required.

To make a high-quality roofing covering, use bitumen sheets. Choose the option provided for in the project. It's best if at this stage construction you will work in tandem with someone. This will help you get the job done in a short time.

Features of purchasing windows

If you want to build a house from scratch with your own hands, choosing windows only at first glance may seem like the simplest process at the entire construction stage. Most users prefer windows made of metal-plastic. They are practical, comfortable, and also have high thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. When purchasing windows, pay first of all attention to reliability, as they should not allow drafts during the cold season. Modern double-glazed windows come in a variety of designs, so they are suitable for any interior.

Selection of door designs

For this reason, before building a house with your own hands, pay attention to:

• Technically correctly executed.
• High quality.
• Decoration Materials high quality for wall construction.
• Compliance with blood packing rules.

Before starting to build a house, you should clearly determine as clearly as possible what the cost of building a house from scratch will be in your case, what work you can do yourself, and for which you will have to resort to the help of professionals.

Features of home insulation

In order to always feel cozy and warm inside the house, you should think about its insulation. For this you can use different materials for thermal insulation - glass wool, wood, perlite and cellulose.

Such insulators can be divided into several conditional groups:

• Materials of synthetic origin. This includes polyurethane and polystyrene. These materials help achieve a high level of thermal protection, the problem is that they are toxic. For this reason, if you are committed to green buildings, look to safer materials.
• Mineral materials. Such insulators are of plant and animal origin. These include wool, hemp, glass wool and flax. They too can provide a high level of protection from the cold and are non-toxic.
• Renewable materials. This category includes cellulose and cork. They are used less frequently in the construction of cottages.

Each of the components can be used to insulate the site and the house. Thus, polyurethane is often used to insulate window and door openings, since it does not contain toxic additives. Glass wool is the most popular material for home insulation, and it is most often used in the modern construction market. But it has certain disadvantages. The insulating qualities of the material are significantly reduced if it gets wet.

At the same time, sheep's wool is resistant not only to moisture, but even to insect pests. It is also resistant to high temperatures. If you want to use materials of natural origin and no others, the material is ideal.

Design

And finally, design. He plays an important role. It is very important that your idea coincides with the practical component. But, most likely, you have already thought about it in advance appearance Houses. For this reason, you already have an idea of ​​the house, and all that remains is to finalize this picture. At the design stage, you can use the services of professional architects. If you do not have the skills to work with drawings, then it is advisable to entrust this matter to a real professional. He will help you draw the future home as accurately as possible and make a project taking into account all your wishes.

At the same time, not only the exterior will be worked out, but also the filling of the house from the inside. This includes the number of rooms, the number of floors, and the location. Think in advance about where you want to place the kitchen stove, TV, and lamps, since the installation of the electrical network and the distribution of sockets will depend on this. If you decide at the very beginning to stick to a certain style, you should keep the whole house in it. The color scheme plays an equally important role. With the help of light pastel shades, it is possible to visually increase the area of ​​the house, as well as give it an elegant look. Taking into account all the recommendations, you will be able to build a house from scratch with your own hands, and it will meet your expectations!

LAMP
bowmen
Yarina
Thank you. Glad you liked it. I'm not a genius at all. I did not come up with anything new and did not make any sensational discovery. I'm just lining up. I do what I like. Is it difficult to lay a brick or block? I think no. The main thing is to want to put it down. And how good of physical shape do you remain if after work you don’t go read the newspaper and watch TV or drink beer, but go to a construction site to physically work. Although I always find time for beer
So, I continue my report. I'll tell you about the lintels above the windows. We decided to fill them with concrete. The first formwork for the lintel took a long time to come up with, but then when they realized what was going wrong, they quickly reinforced the lintels with 10- and 12-gauge reinforcement in two rows. And in the 2-meter window opening, I placed the corners in concrete. Now if I did it, there would be no concrete lintels. I would have put the corners and it would have been much faster in terms of time and much easier in terms of complexity. It would also be warmer. But at that time no one suggested.

But you can write a whole story about this dog. She lives at a construction site, disappears from time to time, but not for long, she still comes here. They called her Moska. Recently she brought puppies under my boards. All males. So whoever needs to contact me, otherwise I don’t know what to do with them. If it weren’t for my wife who feels sorry for them, I would have taught them to swim in our river long ago. The thing is that this bitch steals chickens from neighbors and I recently found out. And I keep wondering why she doesn’t want to eat my bread and potatoes and why the puppies are so plump and round like buns. Here she is in the photo

As the story progresses, I’ll also post some photos of the little puppies.
And now the armored belt. I went around the internet, all my neighbors, contacted builders I knew, forumhouse. Ru was also tortured and decided to do it his way anyway. Look at the photo and everything will become clear.

But I made a belt with such reinforcement so that it would not be just a belt, but with the prefix “armo”. A year ago I had never even heard such a clever word. Horror

By the way, at that time I also mastered welding technology. Not with my wife and not with my mother-in-law (I mastered this even earlier. yyyy) but the technology of iron welding. The welding machine had been lying in the attic for a long time, even electrodes from 20 years ago were used
In the previous photo there is wooden formwork that was made only for the middle load-bearing wall because it is 20 cm thick. The brick would take up the entire width there.

This is what I mean by used brick. New from the factory still has a long way to go. They brought the KamAZ and dumped it with a dump truck. Out of 4.5 thousand bricks, maybe 50 pieces were broken by half.

A week later the beams were laid. Thickness 12x16 cm. The ends of the beams were tarred, but the end was “left” untarred. Oh, what problems we left him with. The thing is that I also tarred the end and then they told me here on the forum that I couldn’t do that. I picked up the grinder and quickly went to trim the ends. They say the end of a tree breathes. I don’t know whether it’s true or not, let him breathe.

I didn’t film the process of how we lifted them, because taking pictures and lifting the beams is a bit inconvenient. And I’m not in almost all the other photos because my father is not very friendly with his digital camera, and my wife is either a child or busy with work, and there’s no time to stop by her construction site specifically to take a photo. But in vain... It would be a lot of interesting things to show you

It was decided to impregnate the beams with means of protecting the wood from insects and bacteria at the top later, and of course the rafters immediately. Here's the brush and off you go

Father dilutes Borochron. This is the name of this product

Meeting future neighbors. Cool, we have a family living right next door and their child is 2 months older than ours. And there’s also a young family living behind them: they have a daughter a year younger than our son. There will be someone to play with in the sandbox and then, when they grow up, they will fight for the girl next door

I will end today on this optimistic note... Next will be the second floor, roof, etc. I still have a lot to tell and show you
I describe everything briefly and if you are interested in anything in detail, write, ask, point out errors. Let's learn together not to do them.

The current trend is that many residents of large cities would not mind living closer to nature, in own home. The demand for suburban areas is constantly growing, construction on them is expanding.

Of course, the easiest way is to hire a team of builders who will take on the main load. But for most Russians it is common to try everything on their own, so many people practice building a house with their own hands on a purchased plot.

For medium and northern strip In Russia, wood has always been a traditional building material, and despite the variety of other possibilities, wooden houses have not lost their popularity at all. True, technology does not stand still in this matter, and instead of log houses made of round timber, houses from timber have begun to be actively built.

This table provides information on the sizes of rafter legs depending on their length:

Rafter length in mm	Distance between rafters in mm	Sectional size of timber for rafters mm
Up to 3000	1200	80×100
Up to 3000	1800	90×100
Up to 4000	1000	80×160
Up to 4000	1400	80×180
Up to 4000	1800	90×180
Up to 5000	1000	80×200
Up to 5000	1400	100×200

• So that when the walls shrink, which is inevitable to one degree or another, the entire roof system does not become distorted, (the upper beam of the wall) is carried out using sliding fasteners. These elements will allow the rafter legs to move a little without disturbing in in this design.

• At the top of the rafters can be fastened different ways- this can be a ridge board, or they are fastened together with a metal plate.
• The next step is to install the remaining elements of the rafter system - these are racks, tie rods, headstock and others. The need for specific additional elements is determined by the size and complexity of the roof structure.

• The installed rafters are covered with sheathing, which is covered with a vapor barrier film on top.
• Next, on top pl Then a counter-lattice is installed or plywood is laid - this will depend on what roofing material is chosen for the roof.
• The next stage is the installation of roofing material.

• When the roof is laid and secured, it should be insulated. Thermal insulation materials (most often mineral wool is chosen for this purpose) are laid on the attic side between the rafters. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the rafters using a stapler.

• Next, the attic subfloor is hemmed onto the attic floor beams, which will simultaneously serve as the ceiling for the underlying rooms. It is fixed from the outside room from the outside in the attic, after laying the film, it is laid (or filled) between the beams. The work can be carried out in a different sequence when the boards are nailed from the outside attic, and installation of insulation and ceiling boards or plywood is carried out from the outside premises.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging and insulating various types can be found in a special section of our portal.

Prices different kinds fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Wooden floor installation

The floors in the house must be installed after the roof has been covered, in order to prevent unnecessary wetting of the materials if it suddenly rains.

The floor can be arranged according to different schemes, but most widespread is the one in which a subfloor is provided.

• The first step is to lay floor beams on the protruding part of the strip foundation or on an additional beam connecting the columnar foundation. They can be made of timber or boards, which are installed on an edge. The size of these parts is selected depending on the span between the walls. For reference, you can use the following table:

Beam section in mm	Span width in mm
	3000	3500	4000	4500	5000	5500	6000
Boards	Step of installation of beams from boards or beams on the basement floor
50×160	800	600	450	-	-	-	-
50×200	1250	900	700	550	450	-	-
80×180	1200	1200	900	700	550	450	-
Bruschi
140×180	-	-	1550	1200	1000	800	700
150×200	-	-	-	1650	1300	1000	900
160×220	-	-	-	2000	1700	1400	1100

• Beams can be fastened using metal corners or studs, but the latter will have to be embedded in the foundation in advance.

• If the walls of the house are installed on a strip foundation, it is recommended to fill the entire area between its walls with fine-grained concrete, which will become an additional insulation for the floor. In addition, rodents cannot tolerate it, which means they will not be able to get into the house through it. Expanded clay is poured with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm.
• Next, in order to lay the subfloor, it is necessary to secure the cranial bars to the covering beams. They are nailed or screwed to the bottom of each beam.

Subfloor boards are laid on the cranial bars. Here you can use material that is not of the highest quality.

• If expanded clay is poured between the “black” and “white” floors, then it is recommended to make a flooring of vapor barrier film or glassine on the boards, and only after that can the insulation be poured.

More often they place between floor beams mineral wool. If this material is chosen, then it is better to purchase basalt, as the most environmentally friendly of all its types.

If this is possible, it is preferable to use ecowool for insulation, which is made from cellulose fibers and is therefore absolutely safe.

You should not use polystyrene foam or materials made on its basis as insulation. Over time, this material begins to release fumes into the air that are not harmless to humans.

• Any insulation must be covered with another layer on top, which will not allow lint and dust from the insulation to penetrate into the house and will not allow accidentally spilled water to pass down. The film is secured to the floor beams with staples.
• Next, onto the beams, on top pl enka, a ventilation block is attached, which will allow air to circulate under the boardwalk, which will contribute to the long-term preservation of the floor.
• After this, you can move on to laying the plank floor.

The boards are not laid close to the wall, but with a distance of approximately 5 mm from it - this gap is necessary to ensure ventilation.

The boards are fastened together using tongue-and-groove joints cut on the sides of the boards. It is recommended to nail them to the floor beams not through the top, but into the groove of the board. This work must be done very carefully so as not to split part of the floorboard. You can use thin screws instead of nails.

• The final stage in arranging a wooden floor is attaching the baseboards to the walls.

After constructing the house, arranging the roof and roofing, ceilings and floors, it is necessary to address the issues of installing windows and doors. (after a certain shrinkage of the walls has occurred). And the last stage will be the process of wall insulation (if necessary) and their external façade finishing. You can learn how to do this correctly from the corresponding article.

So, building a house from timber yourself is quite possible, especially if you have helpers who are at least a little familiar with the art of construction. And in order not to get into trouble with the calculations, the best option You will still order the preparation of materials for the home from a specialized organization. Craftsmen will carry out this work according to a given project with professional precision, and you can try to assemble the structure yourself with assistants, saving a considerable amount of money.

And, traditionally, at the end of the article - a video with advice from professionals.

Video - Features of building a house from timber

Video - Mistakes when building houses from profiled timber