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House made of aerated concrete blocks. DIY aerated concrete house

Aerated concrete is the stumbling block of a considerable number of construction-related disputes. Despite the battles, many professional builders believe that it is a good, although not ideal, building material. Just like everyone else. To decide to build a house from aerated concrete blocks, you need to remember that the material has many useful qualities and has already become quite widespread.

Selection of wall aerated concrete (gas silicate) blocks

A little history

For centuries, people have used natural materials to build houses. building stone- tuff. It was valued for its lightness, ease of processing and ability to retain heat well. Since the 19th century, scientists have tried to reproduce these qualities by experimenting with concrete mixtures. The consistent work of several researchers is considered important milestones on the path to creating modern aerated concrete:

Engineer Hoffman(Czech Republic). In 1889, he conducted a series of experiments with cement mortar, adding acids and salts to it. During the solidification process, the released gases formed a characteristic porous structure.

Americans Owlsworth and Dyer. In 1914, they were the first to use aluminum and zinc salts. The reaction proceeded with the release of hydrogen, which formed a homogeneous porous structure. The method laid the foundation for future technology.

Architect Erickson. In 1922, the Swede patented a method for producing cellular concrete using aluminum powder, becoming the godfather of modern autoclaved aerated concrete. The first aerated concrete for the construction of industrial and residential buildings began to be produced in 1929.

Modern house project made from gas silicate blocks

In the USSR, industrial production of cellular concrete was also established in the 30s. The first autoclaved block aerated concrete was produced in Riga in 1937; buildings made from these blocks still stand in the city. In the post-war 50s, aerated concrete helped restore destroyed infrastructure, both in the USSR and in Europe. In modern Russia, the needs for the material are met by more than 80 modern manufacturing plants.

Composition and technology

Aerated concrete is a representative of the category of cellular concrete, building materials that differ in properties and operating characteristics. The unifying characteristics are the porous structure, low weight and low density. The following components are used in the production of aerated concrete:

Astringent. Portland cement.

Filler. Quartz sand.

Gas generator. Aluminum powder or paste.

Industrial purified water.

Enhancement Additives. Lime, gypsum, industrial waste(slag, ash).

Autoclave curing blocks

The production of aerated concrete begins with mixing the ingredients and pouring the mixture into molds. The chemical reaction produces hydrogen. The gas increases the volume of the mixture (swells it) and forms pores. After the reaction is completed, the mixture sets, it is removed from the molds and cut according to the standard. Further processing occurs in two ways. Depending on which drying method is used, one of two types of aerated concrete is obtained:

Autoclaved(synthetic) hardening. The blocks gain hardness (steamed) in autoclaves (devices that create high pressure in an environment saturated with water vapor).

Non-autoclaved(hydration, air) hardening. The blocks harden at atmospheric pressure in drying chambers.

Classification

According to the standard, cellular concrete (including aerated concrete) is divided into three types according to its functional purpose:

Structural. Density ranges from 1000–1200 kg/m³.

Structural and thermal insulation. From 500 to 900 kg/m³. Brand D500 indicates that in 1 m³ part of the volume is filled with 500 kg of solid material, the remaining volume is air filling the voids (cells).

Thermal insulation. From 200 to 500 kg/m³.

Using blocks increases construction speed

Specifications

Aerated concrete serves as an example of the optimal relationship between the main performance characteristics:

Durability. Despite the low density ( specific gravity), strength is sufficient for the use of aerated concrete in construction load-bearing walls.

Lightness. The lightness of aerated concrete is due to porosity, which can reach 85-90% of the volume of the material.

Low thermal conductivity. Good thermal efficiency is also a result of the porosity of the material. Aerated concrete boasts the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, 0.12 W/m°C (dry).

Homemade mistakes

Having discovered on the Internet many tips for producing aerated concrete with your own hands, and making sure that they are quite feasible, many decide to start their own production. At the same time, home craftsmen do not consider it necessary to strictly comply with technological standards, but they always find people willing to purchase the product at dumping prices.

Small production - no guarantee

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of aerated concrete blocks from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

The use of high-quality raw materials and technological equipment in factory production allows us to obtain aerated concrete products with stable physical and chemical characteristics:

Exact dimensions and correct, with minimal defects, shape.

Given physical and mechanical parameters.

Uniform material density, which is confirmed visually (uniform distribution of air cavities).

Chemical inertness of the material, which is confirmed by laboratory control throughout the production cycle.

The conditions of handicraft production cannot provide manufacturability and control at the level of a modern workshop. Hand-made aerated concrete blocks are distinguishable to the naked eye: the cells (cavities) are distributed unevenly, and the geometry leaves much to be desired. Sometimes such products smell noticeably of chemicals (often lime). Using home-made blocks will most likely reduce the cost of construction, but is guaranteed to become a source of serious problems:

Blocks with arbitrary density and composition have increased fragility and are highly likely to begin to crack in the first year of operation of the house.

Rough seams will cause heat loss

Blocks with non-ideal geometry it will not be possible to place it on special glue; you will have to use mortar. Seams with a thickness of 1 to 2 cm will become cold bridges, reducing the thermal efficiency of housing and promoting freezing of the walls.

Blocks with residual undecomposed lime will have a persistent chemical odor (and affect the health of people living in the house). Excess lime can start the process of corrosion of the metal in the wall.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

A country gas silicate house has the same strengths and weaknesses as the source material. Based on the structure of aerated concrete, many advantages can be highlighted:

Cheapness. Due to the low consumption of cement in the production of products.

Construction speed. The blocks are significant in size and weigh 3-5 times less than a brick of the same volume. This allows you to build 1 m² of wall in 20-25 minutes, which is unattainable in the case of brickwork.

Construction costs. Savings come from rational use labor time and construction materials.

Aerated concrete lends itself manual processing

construction service of houses from aerated concrete blocks

Low thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, aerated concrete is 2-3 times better than brick. A wall made of 37.5 cm thick blocks retains heat as well as 60 cm thick brickwork.

Ease of processing. Blocks can be easily cut with any hand tool, sawed, milled and fined. This flexibility allows you to create complex architectural projects.

Fire resistance. Aerated concrete is characterized by a high degree of fire resistance and belongs to the flammability group NG (non-combustible). When exposed to a flame with a temperature above 100°C for two hours, an aerated concrete wall begins to lose strength and crack to a depth of 3-4 cm (enough time to leave the house and call the fire brigade). Wooden house During this time it will burn to the ground.

Vapor permeability. High. Due to the presence of interconnected voids, the material successfully regulates the humidity in the room (breathes).

Environmental friendliness. The lime and aluminum powder used in production are converted into inert solids after a gas formation reaction. Therefore, the material, made according to all the technology requirements, does not emit any volatile substances into the air.

This is interesting! On various construction forums you can often find references to a certain table of coefficients of environmental friendliness of materials. There are even some numbers given - for example, for expanded clay this coefficient is 20, for brick - 10, aerated concrete - 2, and the leader and standard is wood - its value is 1. In practice, the existence of such a table is not confirmed in any official document , although if we consider materials specifically in terms of the release of any substances into the air, then there is some truth in such a division.

Durability. In the Scandinavian countries, Germany and France, there are many houses made of aerated concrete, built 40-50 years ago and still showing no signs of destruction. This durability is due to the quality of the factory-made material and installation carried out in compliance with the technology.

Post-war aerated concrete house

Frost resistance. Aerated concrete resists cyclic freezing well.

The features of aerated concrete blocks determine weak spots designs:

Flexural strength. Aerated concrete is characterized by a relatively low coefficient of ultimate deformation (0.5–2 mm/m). Foundation deformation beyond these limits leads to the appearance of cracks in the wall of the house. The means of combating will be the construction of a solid foundation with monolithic lining or mesh reinforcement, tying the floors and reinforcing the masonry. It is also not recommended to build private houses higher than 3 floors.

Fasteners. Nails, anchors and screws fit perfectly into an aerated concrete wall, but they stay there disgustingly. A characteristic disadvantage of all cellular concrete is corrected by the use of special fasteners for porous surfaces (steel, nylon, frame). You should also pay attention to the installation of windows and doors (if installed incorrectly, they may become loose over time).

Adhesion(adhesion to finishing materials). It is not high, so before plastering the wall must be prepared (reinforcement or a layer of primer).

External façade finishing with plaster

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Shrinkage. The shrinkage of non-autoclaved aerated concrete reaches 2 mm/m, autoclaved - up to 1 mm/m.

In order for the constructed house to serve for a long time and without problems, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material:

Hygroscopicity. A porous wall is capable of absorbing and releasing moisture (like, for example, a wooden wall). To protect the facade from excess moisture, the walls are lined, preferably with ventilation.

Heating. A house made of aerated concrete can significantly reduce heating costs, but it must be taken into account that the higher the grade of aerated concrete, the worse its thermal insulation properties. Energy efficiency can be improved by simple plastering.

Ventilation. Since aerated concrete is quite large building blocks, the likelihood of poor-quality installation increases, even taking into account the excellent geometry of the products. For example, if the glue is too thick, it does not completely fill the space between the blocks and through gaps form. If there is such a possibility, then after construction it is recommended to conduct a thermal imaging inspection of the house to know whether there are joints and seams that need to be sealed.

Aerated concrete cottage with natural stone cladding

Myths about technology

Many have encountered not the most flattering reviews about aerated concrete and the performance characteristics of houses that had the misfortune of being built from it. Such judgments and conclusions often have little to do with reality and are caused by a misunderstanding of the characteristics of the material and technology. Most often you can hear such “expert” opinions:

Aerated concrete walls are prone to cracking. Cracks can appear not only in an aerated concrete wall, but also, for example, in brickwork. After the examination, we have to admit that in most cases the cause of the defect is not the quality of aerated concrete. Most often, the culprit is a poor-quality foundation, the design of which did not take into account the characteristics of the soil and the location of groundwater. Another reason may be reinforcement errors (both walls and foundation). The quality of aerated concrete will play an unfortunate role only if garage-made material was used.

Aerated concrete buildings require insulation. If, when developing a house project, the thickness of wall structures was laid taking into account the standards of SNiP 23-02-2003 (on thermal protection of buildings), additional insulation will not be required. But since aerated concrete houses definitely need façade finishing, insulation is often installed “at the same time.”

Finishing requires the installation of a ventilated facade

Aerated blocks for the home are a very fragile material, which splits when hit by a hammer. The same brick can also be split by applying a certain force. According to SNiP, for low-rise construction (up to three floors), aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand are recommended, which are quite durable and at the same time light and warm. The D400 brand material is more fragile and warm, the D600 brand material is, on the contrary, stronger and colder. Houses built taking into account technological features, cope well with emerging loads, even in seismically active areas.

Aerated concrete absorbs moisture like a sponge, therefore, a newly built facade requires prompt waterproofing. One of the main features of the material is its gas and vapor permeability, which, however, is not very different from the characteristics of wood. Like wood, aerated concrete is able to absorb moisture and then return it, regulating the microclimate in the rooms. Both materials have a humidity corresponding to the humidity of the surrounding air, and since concrete does not dissolve in water, aerated blocks are not in danger. External walls will not be excessively moistened in cottages with year-round living and properly equipped cladding (which does not impede moisture circulation).

Video description

About construction from gas silicate blocks in the following video:

The aerated concrete block gets wet and submerged in water, therefore not suitable for the construction of suburban housing. Strange logic, if you remember that the foam remains on the surface of the water, and the brick instantly sinks to the bottom. The degree of water absorption of an aerated concrete wall during operation is in no way related to buoyancy; these are two different characteristics.

Living in a house with aerated concrete walls is dangerous, since the material contains lime and aluminum, and the rooms sometimes smell of lime. These elements are part of the original mixture; then they enter into chemical reaction(reaction of transformation, transformation) with other components. The output is fake diamond, aerated concrete in which there are no original elements. Industrial production is characterized by precise dosage of starting substances and high-quality drying, as a result of which only safe silicates remain in the material. The smell of lime appears in garage aerated concrete when the components are measured “by eye” and more lime is added than necessary.

Design features of a typical aerated concrete project

When developing a project for a country house made of aerated concrete parts, they rely on the characteristics of the material. To make housing comfortable and durable, the following points are taken into account:

Wall thickness. Determined by constructive necessity. The optimal thickness of load-bearing walls in climatic conditions central Russia fluctuates between 300-400 mm, interior partitions - 100-150 mm.

Suitable foundation. For aerated concrete walls, a reliable and stable foundation is important. Monolithic is usually recommended slab base; It is advantageous to use it on various soils.

Video description

About a typical house made of aerated blocks in the following video:

Roof. Pitched or flat, the roof needs proper installation on aerated concrete walls. A lightweight structure with metal tiles, corrugated sheets or bitumen shingles as roofing is preferred.

The need for conservation. Laying of autoclaved aerated concrete is not carried out at temperatures below -5°C. If cold weather sets in, the house is preserved; It is desirable that by this moment it already has ceilings above the first floor. The walls are covered with a waterproofing film, just like pallets with blocks (it is better if they are packed in factory-made shrink tape).

Arrangement of the roof of an aerated concrete house

Subtleties of design

Aerated concrete is a material that offers the widest possibilities for architectural solutions; one only has to remember the famous Dancing House in Prague. The following requirements apply to the design of a country cottage made of aerated concrete:

Originality. Details of the architectural style can convey the taste of the owners and emphasize their individuality. Exclusive appearance often achieved by combining modern and traditional styles.

Practicality(functionality). Currently, houses are being designed from aerated concrete with a thoughtful layout and with any additions - a garage, a terrace (including on the top floor), an attic, a glazed bay window or a balcony.

Comfort. The concept of comfort can be different, and the interior of a house made of aerated concrete blocks can be decorated in any style, from traditional classic to ascetic minimalist. Often the customer's choice is cozy style country, picturesque Provence or energetic loft.

A modern project with oriental notes

Projects and prices of turnkey aerated concrete houses

If you decide to build a house from aerated concrete, its price will in any case be more affordable than a similar brick cottage. Many variables will affect the cost:

Project type. You can buy a popular standard project (with ready-made documentation) or order an individual development that takes into account personal preferences.

Brands of building materials. The price depends on the manufacturer (domestic or foreign) and the volume of purchase.

Complexity of the architectural solution. Determined by the area and number of floors of the project, as well as the type of foundation and roof.

Relief of the site. If there is a slope on the site, the project will have to be modified.

Video description

About thermal imaging inspection of a house made of aerated blocks in the following video:

By choosing to build a house from aerated concrete blocks on a turnkey basis, you will be able to appreciate all the advantages of this service, because from the moment the contract is signed, all current issues related to the construction of the house become the concern of the contractor:

Inevitable improvements and changes to the project.

Geological and geodetic studies of the site.

Selection of workers and quality control of construction.

Construction work specified in the contract (from the zero cycle with laying the foundation to laying engineering communications and finishing).

Video description

Today we will discuss how to build an inexpensive house from aerated concrete. How much does a turnkey aerated concrete house cost in the following video:

Of course, you will be able to receive a report at any time or personally monitor how construction is progressing and how the agreed budget is spent.

Country house made of aerated concrete blocks, individual project

When choosing a construction company, you should focus on the time of its existence, the number and quality of completed projects, and reviews from real clients. Companies with extensive experience have their own design bureau, permanent suppliers and professional work teams of various profiles. Construction companies that care about their reputation act according to a well-established scheme, prefer to maintain optimal prices and often have a system of discounts on materials.

Construction prices country houses of gas blocks in the Moscow region look like this:

Area up to 100 m²: on average 2.25 - 3.700 million rubles.

From 100 to 200 m²: 4,150 - 5,200 million rubles.

From 200 to 300 m²: 5,560 - 8,670 million rubles.

Conclusion

When planning to build a country house from aerated concrete blocks, you need to be sure that the housing will delight you with comfort for many decades. Such confidence will be given by high-quality raw materials and a reliable construction company, whose specialists know and strictly follow construction technologies.

Aerated concrete block is a building material with a porous structure. It is made from cement, water, crushed lime, sand and gypsum stone, and aluminum powder is also added as a gas-forming component. Aerated concrete is produced only on special equipment in the factory. It is quite possible to build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands.

Aerated concrete is widely used in various climatic zones during construction industrial premises and houses. It has a relatively light weight (less than 30 kg), and in terms of laying area it can replace 30 bricks. You can build a house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands.

Positive characteristics:

due to its air-porous structure, the gas block has good heat and sound insulating properties;
made from non-flammable components, fireproof;
has high frost resistance and a long service life;
according to environmental standards, aerated concrete is considered a safe material;
not subject to rotting or mold formation, as it is made from mineral raw materials;
easy to process, you can easily build a house of any design and make arched door or window openings;
due to its low weight, the use of lifting equipment is not required;
not subject to destruction from ultraviolet rays and precipitation;
heat-inertial - when heated by the sun, the room inside does not overheat, and in cold weather it does not freeze;
external finishing or additional thermal insulation is done depending on the climate zone and is not mandatory.

The heat efficiency of the material depends on the thickness of the wall and the brand of aerated concrete used. Thus, the use of a d600 block with a width of 20 cm has an indicator of 0.71 W/m·K, 30 cm - 0.45 W/m·K, 40 cm - 0.34 W/m·K. If brand d400 is used: 20 cm - 0.50 W/mK, 30 cm - 0.31 W/mK, 40 cm - 0.25 W/mK.

Negative characteristics:

hygroscopic - it is not recommended to use blocks for the construction of a sauna, steam room or bathhouse without additional vapor barrier;
aerated concrete masonry, like any other stone material, needs a solid foundation to prevent deformation;
plastering work is difficult, since aerated concrete has a smooth surface, which requires adding PVA to the solution;
Special fasteners are required for fastening.

When you independently build a house from aerated concrete, you can expand your architectural plans due to its easy workability. In addition, aerated blocks are larger in size than bricks, so laying 1 m2 will take no more than 20 minutes.

Set of tools for construction

Before you start building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, you should prepare everything necessary tools and building materials. For each construction stage you will need your own set:

cord for marking the trench, tape measure;
shovels, crowbar, pickaxe necessary for excavation work;
hacksaw for cutting blocks, dosing carriage with glue, scoops, trowels, grater, brush, polishing, building level, rubber hammer, corner. They are used when laying gas blocks;
plastering spatula and float, cuttings, rustications, brushes, spatulas, buckets - used for plastering and finishing work;
The wall chaser is designed for cutting grooves for laying fittings and wiring;
electric milling machine is used for cutting deeper grooves;
electric drill with a crown for drilling holes for switches and sockets.

Aerated concrete can be processed well with simple tools. As a result, using simple devices, you can quickly and efficiently lay the blocks yourself. You can also easily make decorative trim using a regular chisel.

Site marking

Before the start of construction work on the site, it is necessary to strew the access road with large crushed stone so that in the future there will be no problems with the delivery of building materials and special equipment. The site for the future home is cleared of unnecessary materials and debris.

A plan is drawn up taking into account the boundaries of neighboring plots, on which a house and places for outbuildings. Using a tape measure, pegs and a cord, the site for the construction of the building is marked. Pegs are driven into the ground at the corners of the perimeter, and a rope is stretched between them. Markings for the outer foundation of the house are made by stepping back from the stretched cord to the width of the future foundation, and stretching a rope parallel to it. To check the evenness of the perimeter, pull the cords diagonally.

Preparing the trenches

Before digging a trench, it is necessary to determine the type of soil at the site of the future house. The soil may be very rocky, which will make digging a trench difficult, or, conversely, sandy, in which case there is a risk of it crumbling. It is necessary to calculate to what depth and width the trench will be dug. If there are stumps or bushes with trees that interfere with construction, then they are uprooted, or the upcoming construction is moved. Removing a large tree can be a very expensive and time-consuming undertaking.

Digging a trench

You can dig a trench yourself - using a shovel, or dig with an excavator. When soil falls to the bottom of the ditch, it is removed, since even when compacted it will remain loose. The depth of the trench depends on the level of freezing, the width is 70-80 cm, or it is equal to the width of the concrete base (the hole under monolithic slab). If the soil is loose and crumbling occurs, then install boards. At the bottom of the trench, make a foundation cushion of sand, 15-20 cm thick, and compact it well.

Making the foundation

A strip or monolithic foundation. The choice of the right foundation depends on technical characteristics soil and financial opportunities. The work process can be divided into stages:

we make formwork;
we lay the fittings;
pour concrete.

Installation of formwork

Formwork is a structure made of boards, panels, block elements for pouring concrete. There are two types: removable - dismantled after the solution dries, and non-removable - remains as additional thermal insulation.

Permanent formwork is erected from extruded polystyrene foam, wood concrete or expanded clay concrete. Each material has its own positive and negative properties.

Before laying the formwork blocks on the bottom of the trench, lay waterproofing material or reinforced film. The work of laying the formwork is done from the corner, moving along the perimeter, laying them in a checkerboard pattern. If the blocks have connecting grooves, they should be on top. The evenness of the installation is checked by the tension of the cord and the level.

Laying the reinforcement

Before installing the first row strip formwork, inside it iron rods are knitted into grooves and fastened together with wire. Vertical reinforcement bars are installed and attached to the horizontal ones. After the required height of the formwork has been built, the excess reinforcement is cut off.

Pouring concrete

It is better to pour concrete in dry and cool weather to avoid excessive waterlogging or evaporation of moisture from the solution. To prepare concrete mortar, it is necessary to use high-quality cement grades M400 or M500. Sand is used without any admixture of earth and clay, preferably river sand. The water must be clean, not chlorinated. Crushed stone is suitable for large fillers.

The ratio of cement to sand is 1:4, to crushed stone - 1:2, to water - 1:0.5. If wet sand is used, the amount of water is reduced.

At sub-zero temperatures, a plasticizer is added to prevent the solution from freezing. If you are building a small house, you can use a concrete mixer to mix the concrete, and if larger area When pouring the foundation, it is better to use ready-mixed concrete. It must be ordered in such a volume that it is enough to fill the entire area at one time. The poured concrete must be processed with a vibrating rammer to remove voids and distribute the mixture evenly.

Building walls

The use of aerated concrete as a material for building walls allows one to achieve good strength and thermal protection of the building. The blocks are light and large in size, which makes it possible to build the walls of a house with an area of 150-200 m2 in just 1-1.5 months. Construction work can be divided into several stages:

lay out the first row;
put the 2nd and 3rd rows;
preparation for window sills and windows;
lintels for windows and window sills;
interfloor armored belt.

Laying the first row

We remove debris, dust from the top of the foundation and lay waterproofing. We lay it along the entire perimeter and interior walls. It is better to lay the insulation not by joining, but by overlapping.

Cement mortar is used to lay out the first row, since the top of the foundation is not level enough. Using the mixture will help level out all the unevenness and lay the aerated concrete blocks more evenly.

The minimum thickness of the cement mortar layer is 1 cm, so it is necessary to determine the highest angle on the foundation using a level. From there they begin laying gas blocks, constantly checking the level readings. They do this after each placed block.

The masonry is carried out along the entire perimeter of the house and along the walls inside it, not forgetting to adjust the evenness according to the level. It is convenient to use gas blocks with tongue-and-groove fastening - they are easier to lay and carry. Also, for convenience and to save time, pallets with blocks are placed inside the building.

Making the 2nd and 3rd rows

Before laying a new row of gas blocks, the surface of the previous one must be polished. This is done for better adhesion of the glue between the blocks, since it is applied only 0.5-0.7 cm at a time.

The second row is laid from the corner with a shift of half a block (at least 8 cm) so that the seam from the laid gas blocks does not coincide with the previous rows. The glue is applied using a dosing carriage or a special ladle with teeth. The gas blocks are placed as close to each other as possible; if necessary, use a rubber hammer. The work must be done as quickly as possible, since the glue sets within 15 minutes. At sub-zero temperatures down to −15°C, glue with special additives is used.

The blocks of the third and subsequent rows are also placed. It is necessary to regularly monitor the evenness of the laid gas blocks. Having added aerated concrete to the location of future doors or windows, it is not always possible to lay them so that they do not protrude into the openings. This problem can be easily dealt with using a regular hacksaw with long teeth. For an even cut, a special corner is used.

Preparing walls for window sills and windows

Reinforcement of window openings should be done one row below the future window sill. This is necessary to strengthen the walls where there will be window hole. To do this, use a wall chaser to make 2 longitudinal grooves along the length of the wall. The furrows should be larger on each side by 30 cm of the width of the window. The reinforcement is laid and filled with cement mortar. Further installation of aerated concrete blocks is done with glue, in the required order, taking into account window and door openings.

We make lintels for windows and doors

It is necessary to install lintels over door and window openings to prevent wall collapse. You can do this in several ways:

A simple option is to purchase ready-made ones.
You can use U-shaped aerated concrete blocks. A support is made from boards above the door or window opening. The required number of U-shaped gas blocks are glued together and placed in the right place. Reinforcement is placed inside the blocks and filled with cement mortar.
Simple aerated concrete blocks are glued together and 3 longitudinal grooves are made into them. They lay the reinforcement and fill it with a cement-sand mixture. Allow to dry for approximately 24 hours. Such lintels are placed on openings no wider than 1 meter and with the reinforcement facing down.

The gaps between the wall and the lintels are filled with gas blocks of the required size.

Interfloor armored belt

An armored belt is a layer of reinforced concrete poured between blocks. Necessary to add strength to the entire wall structure and install the Mauerlat.

Gas blocks 10 cm wide are placed along the edges of the external walls, forming formwork. Reinforcement is placed in the resulting space between the blocks and filled with mortar.

To attach the Mauerlat to the armored belt, reinforcement bars with threads cut into them are vertically concreted. The studs are placed at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other.

Roof

Waterproofing material is laid on the reinforced belt of the walls and the mauerlat (support beam) is laid. It is attached to the studs using nuts. At the corners of the structure, the support beams are fastened together with steel brackets. Tightening is done, that is, transverse beams are laid along the width of the building. Further along the length of the house, 2 rows of beams (beams) are attached so that they are at the same distance from each other and from the edges. So, for example, if the width of the house is 10 m, then this distance will be equal to 3.3 m.

Vertical wooden posts are attached to the beds using staples, corners or nails at a distance of 2-2.5 m. They are installed opposite each other on both sides. For better fastening, tie downs are placed on top of the posts parallel to the width of the roof. Then longitudinal beams are laid on wooden posts on both sides along the length of the roof - a purlin. They are needed to support the rafters.

The installation of the rafters begins from the edge of the roof, making an equal distance between them. Their lower part is attached to the mauerlat, and the top is attached to the rafter beam standing opposite. To ensure the strength of the entire attic structure, the rafters are fastened to purlins.

Before laying the roofing material, a sheathing is made. The roof is placed on it, doing it from right to left and from bottom to top. Each type of material requires its own fasteners.

Finishing work

Aerated concrete walls are lined with siding or sandwich panels on the outside. When installing them, it is necessary to leave a gap between the gas blocks and finishing material. It is needed to remove moisture that can enter through various cracks.

Interior finishing of aerated concrete walls is carried out at a temperature not lower than +10°C. If there are chips, broken edges, or holes on the surface of the blocks, they are filled with masonry mixture. Protruding parts on the walls are rubbed with a sanding float.

Inside, aerated concrete walls are finished with plaster or plasterboard. After which they can be painted, wallpapered or covered with other material.

The walls are plastered with a special mixture for aerated blocks, which is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Estimated estimate for construction

The construction of a house begins with the creation of a project and work to determine the characteristics of the soil. The cost depends on the prices of the organizations.

monolithic base (slab) - 500-700 thousand rubles;
tape - 300-500 thousand rubles.

If you make a monolithic foundation yourself, the price will be almost half less.

With a block cost of 3 thousand rubles. per m 3, 210 thousand rubles need to be spent on the construction of all walls. For masonry you will also need about 105 bags of glue. average cost one is equal to 250 rubles. The total amount is 250×105=26250 rubles. Reinforcement is also added here. It will be needed with a reserve of about 1 km, and this will cost 15 thousand rubles. The armored belt will cost 75 thousand rubles.

The cost of flooring depends on the type of material. Starts from 50 thousand rubles. The price of the roof also varies depending on the content. The installation of a rafter system costs about 100 thousand, roofing coverings start from 70 thousand, insulation mineral wool- 20-50 thousand rubles. A house made of aerated concrete without finishing, with an area of 100 m2, built with your own hands, will cost approximately 1 million 200 thousand rubles.

Aerated concrete is widely used in various climatic zones in the construction of industrial premises and houses. It has a relatively light weight (less than 30 kg), and in terms of laying area it can replace 30 bricks. You can build a house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands.

Positive characteristics:

due to its air-porous structure, the gas block has good heat and sound insulating properties;
made from non-flammable components, fireproof;
has high frost resistance and a long service life;
according to environmental standards, aerated concrete is considered a safe material;
not subject to rotting or mold formation, as it is made from mineral raw materials;
easy to process, you can easily build a house of any design and make arched door or window openings;
due to its low weight, the use of lifting equipment is not required;
not subject to destruction from ultraviolet rays and precipitation;
heat-inertial - when heated by the sun, the room inside does not overheat, and in cold weather it does not freeze;
external finishing or additional thermal insulation is done depending on the climate zone and is not mandatory.

Negative characteristics:

hygroscopic - it is not recommended to use blocks for the construction of a sauna, steam room or bathhouse without additional vapor barrier;
aerated concrete masonry, like any other stone material, needs a solid foundation to prevent deformation;
plastering work is difficult, since aerated concrete has a smooth surface, which requires adding PVA to the solution;
Special fasteners are required for fastening.

Set of tools for construction

Before you start building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, you should prepare all the necessary tools and building materials. For each construction stage you will need your own set:

cord for marking the trench, tape measure;
shovels, crowbar, pickaxe necessary for excavation work;
hacksaw for cutting blocks, dosing carriage with glue, scoops, trowels, grater, brush, polishing, building level, rubber hammer, corner. They are used when laying gas blocks;
plastering spatula and float, cuttings, rustications, brushes, spatulas, buckets - used for plastering and finishing work;
The wall chaser is designed for cutting grooves for laying fittings and wiring;
electric milling machine is used for cutting deeper grooves;
electric drill with a crown for drilling holes for switches and sockets.