Feast in literature and folklore. Christmas Dinner (Charles Dickens

The opinion that the characters of classical Russian literature are concerned with spiritual issues is fair, but one-sided. If you take a closer look, it turns out that the heroes of the frantic moralist Tolstoy, the depressive melancholic Gogol, and the modest intellectual Chekhov knew a lot about food and did not hide it.

The quotes were prepared at the Yasnaya Polyana museum-estate for the project “Ankovo ​​pie or the secrets of the estate kitchen.”

Cold appetizers

Five minutes later the chairman was sitting at the table in his small dining room. His wife brought from the kitchen neatly chopped herring, thickly sprinkled with onions. Nikanor Ivanovich poured a glass of lafitnik, drank, poured a second one, drank, picked up three pieces of herring on his fork... and at that time they rang. Having swallowed saliva, Nikanor Ivanovich growled like a dog: “And damn you! They won't give you anything to eat. Don’t let anyone in, I’m not there, I’m not there.”

We snacked, as the whole of vast Russia snacks in cities and villages, that is, with all sorts of pickles and other stimulating blessings.
N.V. Gogol " Dead Souls»

Lebedev. Herring, mother, a snack for all.
Shabelsky. Well, no, a cucumber is better... Scientists have been thinking since the creation of the world and haven’t come up with anything smarter... (To Peter.) Peter, go get some more cucumbers and have them fry four pies with onions in the kitchen. So that they are hot.
A.P. Chekhov "Ivanov"

Noticing that the appetizer was ready, the police chief invited the guests to finish whist after breakfast, and everyone went to the room from where the wafting smell had long since begun to pleasantly tickle the nostrils of the guests and where Sobakevich had long been peering through the door.
N.V. Gogol "Dead Souls"

Yes, it would be nice to have something like that now... - agreed the inspector of the religious school Ivan Ivanovich Dvotochiev, wrapping himself from the wind in a red coat. - It’s two o’clock now and the taverns are locked, but it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have some mushrooms or something... or something like that, you know...
A.P. Chekhov "Tears Invisible to the World"

Vegetable and green shops are also not ignored by me; our gardeners are truly worthy of respect, being able to preserve greenery with such skill all year round.

Well, when you enter the house, the table should already be set, and when you sit down, now put a napkin behind your tie and slowly reach for the decanter of vodka. Yes, mommy, you don’t drink it right away, but first you sigh, rub your hands, look indifferently at the ceiling, then, so leisurely, you bring it, vodka, to your lips and - immediately there are sparks from your stomach all over your body... How We just had a drink, we need a snack now. Well, sir, my dear Grigory Savvich, you also need to eat it skillfully. You need to know what to eat.
A.P. Chekhov "Siren"

As soon as you have drunk, now, my benefactor, while you still feel the sparks in your stomach, eat the caviar on its own or, if you wish, with a lemon... delicious!
A.P. Chekhov "Siren"

Would you like some of your cheese?
- Well, yes, parmesan. Or do you love someone else? – asked Stiva.
“No, I don’t care,” Levin said, unable to contain his smile.
L.N. Tolstoy "Anna Karenina"

- No, no joke, whatever you choose is good. I went skating and I'm hungry. And don’t think,” he added, noticing a dissatisfied expression on Oblonsky’s face, “that I don’t appreciate your choice.” I'll be happy to eat well.
- Still would! Whatever you say, this is one of the pleasures of life,” said Stepan Arkadyevich.
L. N. Tolstoy “Anna Karenina”

Hot appetizers

Please note, Ivan Arnoldovich, only landowners who were undercut by the Bolsheviks eat cold appetizers and soup. A more or less self-respecting person handles hot snacks. And of the hot Moscow appetizers, this is the first.

An hour before lunch, Afanasy Ivanovich ate again, drank an old silver glass of vodka, ate mushrooms, various fish and other things.
N.V. Gogol "Old World Landowners"

“Dear Stepan Bogdanovich,” the visitor spoke, smiling shrewdly, “no pyramidon will help you. Follow the old wise rule - treat like with like. The only thing that will bring you back to life is two glasses of vodka with a spicy and hot snack.
M.A. Bulgakov "Master Margarita"

Dumplings

All Moscow Siberians were regular visitors to the tavern. The cook, specially sent by Lopashov from Siberia, made dumplings and stroganina. And then one day the largest gold miners came from Siberia and dined in Siberian style at Lopashov’s, and there were only two changes on the menu: the first was an appetizer and the second was “Siberian dumplings.” There were no other dishes, but 2,500 dumplings were prepared for twelve diners: meat, fish, and fruit in pink champagne... And the Siberians slurped them with wooden spoons...

Pancakes

But finally the cook appeared with pancakes... Semyon Petrovich, risking burning his fingers, grabbed the top two, hottest pancakes and deliciously plopped them on his plate. The pancakes were crispy, spongy, plump, like the shoulder of a merchant’s daughter... Podtykin smiled pleasantly, hiccupped with delight and doused them with hot butter. Then, as if whetting his appetite and enjoying the anticipation, he slowly, sparingly coated them with caviar. He poured sour cream on the places where the caviar did not fall... Now all that was left was to eat, wasn’t it? But No! grunted, opened his mouth...
A.P. Chekhov "On Mortality"

Soups

And having extinguished the first hunger and whetted our real appetite, we will turn to the meat hodgepodge, and it will be amber, floating, hiding under its surface delicious meats of various types and black shiny olives...
Arkady and Boris Strugatsky “Lame Fate”

Marina. Let's live again as it was, in the old way. In the morning at eight o'clock tea, at one o'clock lunch, in the evening - sit down for dinner; everything is in its own order, like people... in a Christian way. (With a sigh.) I, a sinner, haven’t eaten noodles for a long time.
Telegin. Yes, we haven’t had noodles for a long time.
A.P. Chekhov "Uncle Vanya"

And if you like soup, then the best soup is the one that is topped with roots and herbs: carrots, asparagus and all that other stuff.
“Yes, a magnificent thing...” sighed the chairman, looking up from the paper.
A.P. Chekhov "Siren"

Main dishes

The appetizer was followed by lunch. Here the good-natured owner became a complete robber. As soon as he noticed someone had one piece, he immediately put another one on him, saying: “Without a mate, neither a person nor a bird can live in the world.”
N.V. Gogol "Dead Souls"

My brother, no need for your pineapples! By God... Especially if you drink a glass, then another. You eat and you don’t feel it... in some kind of oblivion... you’ll die from the aroma of one thing!..
A.P. Chekhov "Tears Invisible to the World"

After the roast, a person becomes full and falls into a sweet eclipse,” the secretary continued. - At this time, both the body and the soul feel good. To enjoy, you can have three drinks after that.
A.P. Chekhov "Siren"

“It’s damp in the field,” Oblomov concluded, “it’s dark; fog, like an overturned sea, hangs over the rye; the horses shake their shoulders and beat with their hooves: it’s time to go home. The lights were already on in the house; there are five knives knocking in the kitchen; frying pan mushrooms, cutlets.
I.A. Goncharov "Oblomov"

Buckwheat porridge. Grain to grain. How many of them, fragrant, faceted! If you pour them out of cast iron, for example, onto a large sheet of paper, they will rustle and crumble as if they were dry. Oh, not at all, they are soft, hot, overflowing with juice and steam, absorbing the aromas of meadows, the July midday heat, and the evening falling asleep flowers, and the juices of dew. Taste walnut is felt in these grains. Buckwheat! The black porridge makes faces white and sleek, and compassion awakens in the soul.
Bulat Okudzhava “Date with Bonaparte”

Zina brought in a silver covered dish in which something was grumbling. The smell from the dish was such that the dog’s mouth immediately filled with liquid saliva. "Gardens of Babylon"! - he thought and tapped the parquet with his tail like a stick.
“Here they are,” Philip Philipovich commanded predatorily.
M.A. Bulgakov "Heart of a Dog"

Well, Kuzma Pavlovich, we are treating the famous artist! Make some vodka first...
For a snack, so that there are jars and trays, and not the cat crying.
- I’m listening, sir.
“But salmon would be nice between meat,” suggests V.P. Dalmatov.
- There is salmon. Mana from heaven, not salmon.
V.A. Gilyarovsky “Moscow and Muscovites”

At the end of October or beginning of November, Balaclava begins to live a unique life. In every home, mackerel is fried or marinated. The wide mouths of the bakery ovens are lined with clay tiles, on which the fish is fried in its own juices. This is called: mackerel on a scallop - the most exquisite dish of local gastronomes.
A.I. Kuprin "Listrigons"

Eat, young lady countess,” she said, giving Natasha this and that. Natasha ate everything, and it seemed to her that she had never seen or eaten such flatbreads and such chicken.
L.N. Tolstoy "War and Peace"

The larger, the thicker and the fattier your cutlets, the better, but it is especially good to stuff average cutlets, which are more often found on the farm.
V.F. Odoevsky "Lectures of Mr. Pouf"

Dessert

Then we went to the shore, which was always completely empty, swam and lay in the sun until breakfast. After breakfast - white wine, nuts and fruit - in the sultry darkness of our hut under the tiled roof, hot, cheerful streaks of light stretched through the through shutters.
I.A. Bunin "Dark Alleys"

The hippopotamus cut off a piece of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then took a second shot of alcohol so recklessly that everyone applauded.
M.A. Bulgakov "The Master and Margarita"

“You’re a writer,” Bernovich tells him, “so describe what I’m eating today.” And no comments, just facts. In the morning – veal jellied meat, laks, eggs, coffee with milk. For lunch - pickle, cabbage rolls, marshmallows. For dinner - like kulebyaki, vinaigrette, sour cream, apple strudel... In the USSR they will read it and be stunned. Maybe they will give the Lenin Prize for glasnost...
Sergey Dovlatov “Solo on Underwood”

At first glance, it’s a strange choice of book for this magazine, isn’t it? The themes of the recipes may also seem unexpected. I myself am not a vegan or even a vegetarian, and so far I don’t see any prerequisites for that. But almost every time I happen to introduce some new, typically vegetarian dish into my menu, I get so much pleasure from it that I involuntarily wonder why I don’t cook it more often :)

As for the book, this novel by Scarlett Thomas deserves attention on its own (despite the stupid title). I started reading it as part of a kind of “flash mob” and did not at all expect that I would like it. Now I remember: the plot is quite stupid, the ending was somewhat disappointing, but still the narrative quickly captured me and gave me a number of pleasant hours, so I don’t regret the time spent. At the same time, I was enriched with new knowledge in the field of mathematics (I have had problems with it since school) and cryptanalysis: the book is richly flavored with interesting facts from both areas and, perhaps, this is the most interesting. However, what does veganism have to do with it?

In fact, while reading any book, I already automatically note to myself what the characters eat - this is something akin to professional deformation :) Naturally, most of these notes do not find any continuation in my own kitchen, and with the book by Scarlett Thomas, most likely it would have turned out the same way. But, after finishing reading, I discovered a number of interesting appendices at the end of the book, and among them - a specific recipe from the heroes’ menu, and a recipe for a pie - I had to bake it urgently! Well, everything else followed suit. In the end, not all of my recipes turned out to be strictly vegan, but if necessary, they are easy to adjust accordingly.

- Well, what are we having for dinner? - I’m interested.
- We have... Hmmm... Sticky onion pies, fried red cabbage with apple and red wine sauce, plus mashed potatoes, parsley and celery. There were beans with fried potatoes, but I decided to boo. Instead of pudding - lemon pie with mint leaves. One of the chefs said that this pie is called “Let them eat cake.” Something from Marie Antoinette's repertoire. I think they're a little bored here. I also brought you some green “gunpowder” tea.

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• January 29th, 2013 , 02:35 pm

Those who have what they have, sometimes cannot eat,
And others can eat, but sit without bread.

And here we have what we have, and at the same time we have what we have, -
So, we only have heaven to thank!

Robert Burns was born in the Scottish village of Alloway on January 25, 1759. His life turned out to be not very long, but fruitful: in his 37 years, he managed not only to become the father of a dozen children from different mothers (at the moment there are over six hundred of his descendants living in the world), but also to leave a unique literary legacy. Today Burns is the main national poet of Scotland, a truly folk poet, and his birthday - January 25 - is celebrated as the second most important public holiday. The celebrations associated with it are usually called Burns Supper or Burns Night. And they are relevant not only in the poet’s homeland - all over the world, societies of Burns lovers on this day (or around these dates) organize gala dinners, taking place according to a certain scenario. It cannot be done without the sounds of bagpipes, readings of Burns's poems and the performance of his songs, but the main point of the program is still gastronomic - the ceremonial removal of haggis, the reading of a poem ("Ode to Haggis") and the ritual opening of this famous Scottish pudding (naturally, followed by eating). This year we also got a real Burns Supper. Naturally, with homemade haggis and other traditional treats.

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• February 17th, 2011 , 10:48 pm

“It was still early when we settled in, and George said that since we had so much time, it would be a great opportunity for us to have a fancy, delicious dinner. He promised to show us what could be done on the river in terms of cooking, and proposed to prepare an Irish stew from vegetables, cold meats and all kinds of leftovers.”

There are several books that I invariably turn to when I want to remember what real humor and jokes are that make me sincerely smile with all 32 teeth or laugh out loud. “Three in one boat, not counting the dog” is certainly one of them. To urgently eliminate a bad mood, just find the appropriate audiobook on your computer and start playing it from almost anywhere. The effect is guaranteed - tested repeatedly. And even now, tapping on the keyboard and just remembering it, I can’t bring myself not to smile in the stupidest way. Miracles, and that’s all!

If we consider Jerome’s immortal story from a culinary point of view, then we have to include a similar approach. Because the central dish of this book is simply impossible to cook in a bad mood and with a head full of all sorts of problems. Willy-nilly, you start fluttering around the kitchen, giggling stupidly.

I also like Jerome’s description of Irish stew because no matter what the result is and no matter what stupid things I do during the cooking process, everything can be attributed to compliance with the literary source :)) This is one of the very comfortable from this point of view of books (I know others like this, and I’ll be happy to get to them too). In general, just in case, I remind you of what is written in the very top post: this magazine is more about literature than about cooking. And this time I won't try to do everything Right in culinary terms - that's what Irish stew is for! If you are disgusted by this approach, don’t blame me, but I warned you.

“Towards the end, Montmorency, who showed great interest in this whole procedure, suddenly went off somewhere with a serious and thoughtful look. A few minutes later he returned carrying a dead water rat in his teeth. Apparently he intended to offer it as his contribution to the common meal. Whether this was a mockery or a sincere desire to help, I don’t know.
We had a debate about whether to let the rat into the business. Harris said why not, if you mix it with everything else, every little bit can come in handy. But George cited precedent: he had never heard of water rats being put in Irish stew, and preferred to refrain from experimenting.
Harris said:
- If you never experience anything new, how can you know whether it is good or bad? People like you slow down the progress of humanity. Remember the German who first made sausages.”

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• January 8th, 2011 , 03:46 pm

“Stacked on the floor in a huge pile resembling a throne were roasted turkeys, geese, chickens, game, pork hams, large pieces of beef, suckling pigs, garlands of sausages, fried pies, plumpuddings, barrels of oysters, hot chestnuts, ruddy apples, juicy oranges. , fragrant pears, huge liver pies and steaming bowls of punch, the fragrant vapors of which hung in the air like fog.”

I really wanted to publish this post two weeks ago - December 24-25, but, unfortunately, it didn’t work out. Well, we can’t wait until next year now, right? We'd better cook something else next time. One way or another, I would like to congratulate everyone on the holidays: Catholics - happy past Catholic Christmas, Orthodox Christians - happy Orthodox Christmas and everyone in general - happy New Year. Let it bring you more bright moments and turn out to be meaningful and tasty in every sense of the word.

In general, I must say that I am impressed by many “other people’s” holidays. I almost never celebrate them (especially according to all the rules), but I love to watch others do it and rejoice with them. So here it is: I’m not a Catholic, but I like to watch how the entire Catholic world plunges into pre-Christmas chaos. Of course, we have our own Christmas, but this is a completely different holiday, which, moreover, is not so widespread these days. The Catholic version, on the contrary, due to its widespread popularity, has partially lost its religious overtones.

By the way, in Dickens, Christmas also appears to be by no means a religious date: the spirits of Christmas are not some kind of angels, but completely pagan creatures in their essence. And this holiday does not teach the worship of any particular deity, but simple human virtues that do not depend on religion - kindness, philanthropy, responsiveness and compassion. This is why I like him. And this is why I like Dickens’s version of Christmas.

The above quote, of course, describes an exaggerated picture, and for obvious reasons I do not undertake to construct such a thing :) (Although, by the way, in Russian literature descriptions of feasts in a similar style are quite common, and I still have no idea from which side to approach them.) Today we have a poor Christmas dinner ahead of us, but even that can leave only a completely fed-up person indifferent. Because there will be a goose, which the poor see almost once a year - on the occasion of a great holiday, Christmas pudding, which is not prepared on other occasions, as well as simple roasted chestnuts, which in themselves are not some kind of delicacy, but perfectly complement the overall picture.

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E yes - no matter how absurd it may sound - it has become fashionable. At the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, almost everyone suddenly turned into culinary specialists. And they began to tell stories about food and cooking. On television, in blogs, in books (and not just cookbooks), a wealth of talent has emerged that connects the art of cooking with broader cultural concerns. Since food is an important part of life, it is not surprising that it is also a part of literature. Writers write about food not only by constructing fictional plots, but also by following the facts in works based on real life. Reading many of them whets the appetite - it all depends on the author’s skill and degree of mastery of words. Others, like Jonathan Safran Foer's 2009 non-fiction book Eating Animals, are likely to take away your appetite.

X Although food is not very often the subject of literary inspiration, there are works in which the theme of food (or lack thereof, as in the case of Knut Hamsun’s “Hunger”) plays an important or even main role. Food, its preparation, descriptions of dinners, breakfasts and holiday feasts are in the center of the author’s attention, since they not only tell about the life and customs of the time, but also allow us to better understand psychological type literary characters. Mentions of food are found in numerous literary works from antiquity to the present day, and in different genres. The literary menu can be compiled based on poetic works, novels and stories, short stories, detective stories and biographical books, and even erotic prose.

P From literary sources you can trace the history of the development of food culture, the characteristics of cuisines different countries and peoples. Information about food in Ancient Greece draw primarily from the plays of the “father of comedy” Aristophanes. Chronicles and monuments of ancient Russian literature rarely mention cooking. And yet, in The Tale of Bygone Years one can find references to oatmeal and pea jelly. Modern compilers of lists of “books that everyone should definitely read” always put the famous satirical novel by Francois Rabelais “Gargantua and Pantagruel” in first place. In this voluminous work, written in the 16th century, the description of the feasts takes up dozens of pages! It was in this book that the famous proverb “Appetite comes with eating,” erroneously attributed to Rabelais himself, was first mentioned.

IN The impressive list of gourmet writers continues with Alexandre Dumas, the father who not only loved to eat well. He left behind not only a popular series of novels about the fascinating adventures of the royal musketeers, but also the “Great Culinary Dictionary,” which contains almost 800 short stories on culinary topics - recipes, letters, anecdotes, intersecting in one way or another with the topic of food.

T Meanwhile, talented writers continued to create national culinary myths. Here's how Pushkin's Eugene Onegin dined:

Entered: and there was a cork in the ceiling,
The current flowed from the comet's fault,
Before him roast-beef is bloody,
And truffles, the luxury of youth,
French cuisine has the best color,
And Strasbourg's pie is imperishable
Between live Limburg cheese
And a golden pineapple.

D about Alexander Pushkin in Russia, savory, but without an aristocratic connotation, the Enlightenment poet Gabriel Derzhavin described the food: “Crimson ham, green cabbage soup with yolk, ruddy-yellow pie, white cheese, red crayfish”... But Nikolai Gogol, unlike Pushkin , was a “soil” patriot and objected to his great contemporary in the most appetizing book of Russian literature “Dead Souls” through the mouth of Sobakevich: “Even if you put sugar on a frog, I won’t put it in my mouth, and I won’t take an oyster either: I know what an oyster looks like.” .

«… E If fate had not made Gogol a great poet, he would certainly have been an artist-cook!” – said Sergei Aksakov. It’s hard not to agree after reading this menu: “...On the table there were already mushrooms, pies, skorodumki, shanishki, pryaglas, pancakes, flatbreads with all sorts of toppings: topping with onions, topping with poppy seeds, topping with cottage cheese, topping with skimmed eggs, and God knows.” what didn’t happen…” (“Dead Souls”). Glorified by the genius of the writer, the love of the old-world landowners Afanasy Ivanovich and Pulcheria Ivanovna, mixed with the love of abundant food, is a real sublime hymn to “beautiful food!

IN All Russian classics of the 19th century leave a cheerful culinary impression. The amount of what was drunk and eaten on its pages is amazing. One of the most famous characters in Russian literature is Goncharov’s Oblomov, who, apart from eating and sleeping, does nothing. And here’s the paradox: all the main characters of the “golden age” of literature - from Onegin to Chekhov’s summer residents - are the same charming slackers. Anton Chekhov has a story “Siren”, which is literally a guide to gastronomic temptations.

IN Literary works often contain not just descriptions of dishes and feasts, but also culinary recipes. The Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz described in poetry a recipe for making Lithuanian bigos, and the German classic Friedrich Schiller wrote a recipe for punch. Haruki Murakami’s book “The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle” is replete with descriptions of dishes.

WITH arrival " silver age The topic of food was completely eliminated from literature. Vampire women, fatal passions, and potential suicides began to roam the pages of publications. And no temptations for the stomach! During the Soviet era, feasts almost completely disappeared from the pages of books. If you could still read about how people ate in the 1920s from Ilf and Petrov in “The Twelve Chairs,” then later the Stakhanov sandwich became the maximum food in literature. It was difficult to expect literature to describe feasts while the people were starving.

AND The unloving Khrushchev, with his Kremlin “reign,” returned food to literature, but not the kind that was depicted by Gogol and other classics. National dishes were forgotten, and hamburgers, toast and barbecue appeared instead. The pioneer of introducing American gastronomy into literature was Vasily Aksenov. The heroes of his novel “Island of Crimea” consume such an amount of whiskey that in the West would be enough for literary heroes to go to another world...

WITH Among the great gourmet writers are such diverse authors as Vladimir Nabokov, Jorge Luis Borges, Mikhail Bulgakov and Marcel Proust. The author of the book “Three Men in a Boat” Jerome K. Jerome is no worse. Three gentlemen - George, Harris and Jay - spend the entire story either thinking about food or talking about it, and the rest of the time they just eat. Moreover, they are just gourmets, not gluttons. Their souls yearn for culinary delights...

TO It is impossible to determine the ulular predilections of modern literature in Russia, since they are practically absent on the pages of books. Dining tables are so rare in modern works that it seems as if the heroes are deprived of the organs of smell and touch, and of all the temptations they know only one - speaking. And “talking heads” don’t eat...

IN At this time, culinary detective stories, culinary love novels, and books about sentimental culinary journeys became fashionable abroad. Chefs can now easily solve crimes, and detectives are excellent cooks. After Maigret and Nero Wolfe - not new, but in demand. Particularly popular books are “Goddess in the Kitchen” by Sophie Kinsella, “Julie and Julia: A Recipe for Happiness” by Julie Powell, “Simmering Chocolate” by Laura Esquivel, “Chocolate” by Joan Harris, “Fried Green Tomatoes at the Stop Cafe” by Fanny Flagg. The ominous character in Thomas Harris’s series of novels about Hannibal Lecter is also “not indifferent” to cooking; he also became the hero of a television series, which shows in a frighteningly naturalistic way the cannibal’s process of preparing gourmet dishes.

TO books that describe delicious food “deliciously” will always be in demand. After all, cooking is also an art. As Kazuo Ishiguro aptly puts it, it is simply not appreciated enough because the results disappear too quickly.

Dmitry Volsky,
October 2014

Fisunova Vera

A person can do without a lot in his life: without a phone, clothes, the Internet, a car. But he simply needs food and drink. The topic of cooking has always been a hot topic in literature.

The relevance of the chosen topic is due to the fact that modern people have a very vague idea of ​​what Russian cuisine is, and when reading literary works and seeing the names of dishes in them, they rarely want to get to know the traditions of native Russian cuisine.

The purpose of our research is to analyze the use of the theme of cooking in literary works of the 19th century, to identify the relationship between literature and cooking.

To achieve the goal, the following tasks were set:

Object of study: students of grades 9-11 and school teachers. Subject of study:

Research methods

The main advantage of Russian cuisine is the ability to absorb and creatively refine and improve the best dishes of all the peoples with whom the Russian people had to communicate on a long historical path.

How many delicious dishes prepared for us by such masters of Russian prose as Alexander Pushkin, Nikolai Gogol, Andrei Melnikov-Pechersky, Ivan Goncharov and many, many other “great chefs” of Russian literature. Derzhavin's food is perceived with the eyes, Gogol's food is perceived by the soul, Goncharov's food is perceived only by the stomach, and Chekhov's food is perceived by the tongue.

I would like to hope that we will revive Russian cuisine, and our favorite dishes will not be hamburger and sushi, but jam made from pine cones or dandelions, real “Pushkin’s Varenets” and veal cheek soup, porcini mushroom jelly, lamb flank with porridge, pike perch and red pancakes.

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XIX Regional scientific and practical conference for youth and schoolchildren “Step into the future, Siberia!”

CULINARY REPERTOIRE
IN LITERARY WORKS OF THE 19TH CENTURY

Bratsk, Irkutsk region

Bratsk, Irkutsk region

2012

1. INTRODUCTION 3 pages

1. THEORETICAL PART 4 pages

1. PRACTICAL PART 9 pages

1. CONCLUSION page 11

1. BIBLIOGRAPHY 13 pp.

1. APPENDIX I 14 pages
2. APPENDIX II 18 pages.

1. APPENDIX III 21 pages.

1. APPENDIX IV 22 pages.

1. APPENDIX V 23 pages

1. APPENDIX VI 24 pages

1. APPENDIX VII 25 pages

1. APPENDIX VIII 26pp.

INTRODUCTION

A person can do without a lot in his life: without a phone, clothes, the Internet, a car. But he simply needs food and drink. The topic of cooking has always been a hot topic in literature. How often, when reading this or that work, do you imagine with delight and tenderness how delicious it is: “pies with poppy seeds, saffron milk caps, a glass of vodka, dried fish, sauce with mushrooms, thin uzvar with dried pears, mushrooms with thyme, pies with urda, shortbread with lard..."

What do you think the symbolic image of the Russian table looks like around the world? Most likely, this picturesque picture looks like this: vodka in a sweaty pot, herring with a rainbow sheen on the cut, oozing shiny fat, cabbage soup in a pot with a wooden spoon next to it. So why do we allow people to speak so disparagingly about Russian gastronomic traditions, carefully collected by our ancestors over many centuries, combining benefit and pleasure? The answer is extremely simple - many recipes and traditions have been lost and simply “sunk into oblivion.” But many modern “masterpieces” are nothing more than a repetition of a well-forgotten old recipe and originate precisely from Russian literature! Botvinya, repnitsa, kurnik, glazukha, nanny…. Behind these tasty and familiar names from fiction are hidden easy-to-prepare dishes. Yes, yes, our ancestors were not gourmets in the modern sense.

The relevance of the chosen topic is due to the fact thatmodern people have a very vague idea of ​​what Russian cuisine is, and when reading literary works and seeing the names of dishes in them, they rarely want to get to know the traditions of native Russian cuisine.

Many authors literature of the 19th century centuries have given us masterpieces of Russian cooking: how many delicious dishes can be prepared by looking into the works of L.N. Tolstoy, A.S. Pushkin, N.V. Gogol, A.P. Chekhov and many others. One of the essential components of writing is the ability to believably, vividly and expressively describe all sorts of edible things. Sometimes such details play an important role in the overall impression of the book. Has this ever happened to you? Reading a book and coming across a description of the process of cooking or eating a particularly tasty dish by the characters, did you have an urgent desire to repeat the culinary experiment?

Purpose Our research is to analyze the use of the theme of cooking in literary works of the 19th century, identifying the relationship between literature and cooking.To achieve the goalThe following tasks were set:

1. Study the culinary preferences of writers of the 19th century (study the works of Russian classics, where there are descriptions of Russian cuisine and learn how to cook dishes).

2. Trace the history of Russian cuisine and modern restaurants, find modern analogues to ancient recipes.

3. Determine what our ancestors who lived in the 19th century ate and study the gastronomic preferences of modern people.

4. Find out if students are familiar with dishes from literary works.

Object of study: students of grades 9-11 and school teachers.Subject of study:culinary preferences of writers of the 19th century. The study focuses on two areas human activity: Russian literature and Russian cuisine.

Research methods: literature study, questioning.

Hypothesis: if I conduct research, I will find out that in the age of progress and general employment, life itself pushes us to forget not only about the traditions of the original Russian cuisine, but also about spiritual food. Accepting all the culinary innovations, we forget about our native Russian cuisine, about what we have learned from experience and passed on from fathers to children.

Theoretical part

1. EXCURSION TO THE 19TH CENTURY.

Each nation has its own way of life, customs, its own unique songs, dances, and fairy tales. Each country has its favorite dishes, special traditions in table decoration and cooking. Old Russian cuisine, which developed from the 9th-10th centuries. and reached its greatest prosperity in the XV-XVI centuries. characterized by common features that have largely survived to this day. At the beginning of this period, Russian bread from yeast rye dough appeared, and all other important types of Russian flour products also appeared: saiki, bagels, sochni, pyshki, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc.

Various gruels and porridges, which were originally considered ritual, ceremonial food, also occupied a large place on the menu. The number of dishes by name was huge, but in content they differed little from one another. In the initial period of development of Russian cuisine, there also developed a tendency to consume liquid hot dishes, which then received common name“Hlebova” includes cabbage soup, stews based on vegetable raw materials, as well as various rubs, brews, and mash. At the same time, all the main types of Russian soups finally took shape, while unknown ones appeared in medieval Rus' hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles.

On the cookery of the 17th century. Tatar cuisine is strongly influenced by historical events. During this period, dishes made from unleavened dough (noodles, dumplings), as well as raisins, apricots, figs (figs), lemons and tea, which became traditional in Rus', entered Russian cuisine.

The boyar table is characterized by a large abundance of dishes - up to 50, and at the royal table their number grows to 150-200. The size of these dishes is also huge. Court dinners turn into a pompous, magnificent ritual, lasting 6-8 hours in a row, and include almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series of dishes of the same name.

The order of serving dishes at a rich festive table, consisting of 6-8 changes, finally took shape in the second half of the 18th century. It was preserved until the 60-70s of the 19th century: hot dishes (cabbage soup, stew, fish soup); cold (okroshka, botvinya, jelly, jellied fish, corned beef); roast (meat, poultry); vegetable (boiled or fried hot fish); pies (unsweetened), kulebyaka; porridge (sometimes served with cabbage soup); cake (sweet pies, pies); snacks.

Since the time of Peter the Great, the Russian nobility has borrowed and introduced Western European culinary traditions. And only in the second half of the 19th century. The restoration of the Russian national menu begins, but with French adjustments.

By the last third of the 19th century. Russian cuisine of the ruling classes began to occupy, along with French cuisine, one of the leading places in Europe. The main features of Russian cuisine can be defined as follows: the abundance of dishes, the variety of the snack table, the love of eating bread, pancakes, pies, cereals, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, the variety of fish and mushroom table, the widespread use of pickles from vegetables and mushrooms, abundance festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbreads, Easter cakes, etc.(Appendix I).

From the middle of the 19th century a serious turn of gastronomic interests towards national traditions begins. A completely unique tavern cuisine emerges. It is based on traditional Russian cooking; here they are no longer shy about porridge, cabbage soup, pies, or kulebyak. Dishes are prepared in large tavern ovens, which were no different from Russian home ovens.

The main advantage of Russian cuisine is the ability to absorb and creatively refine and improve the best dishes of all the peoples with whom the Russian people had to communicate on a long historical path. This is what made Russian cuisine the richest cuisine in the world.

2. COOKING IN LITERATURE

The ideas of most of our contemporaries about their own cuisine, unfortunately, are surprisingly primitive. There are several well-worn templates, from which it follows that the main food of the Russian people at all times is cabbage soup, porridge and dumplings, that the “common people” never saw meat, and the propertied class was served swans with feathers on the table, that, finally, the imagination of Russian cooks was limited Russian stove and cast iron.

And stumbling across the works fiction Only in the 19th century, at the mention of now-forgotten dishes, such as nanny, perepecha, salamata, kulaga, kokurka, a contemporary will sigh sadly - they say, there was food before us, but it was forgotten long ago...How many delicious dishes have been prepared for us by such masters of Russian prose as Alexander Pushkin, Nikolai Gogol, Andrei Melnikov-Pechersky, Ivan Goncharov and many, many other “great chefs” of Russian literature.

Even the city's intelligentsia openly declares their gastronomic preferences. The liberal poet at the peak of his popularity, successful publisher and player N.A. Nekrasovwrites what exactly he sees as the meaning of life:

In pies, in sterlet ear,
In cabbage soup, in goose giblets,
In the nanny, in the pumpkin patch, in the porridge
And in lamb tripe...

And here’s how the main character of Russian literature, Eugene Onegin, dined:

Entered: and there was a cork in the ceiling,

The current flowed from the comet's fault,

Before him roast-beef is bloody,

And truffles, the luxury of youth,

French cuisine has the best color,

And Strasbourg's pie is imperishable

Between live Limburg cheese

And a golden pineapple.

Let us read these lines: it is clear from them that Russian aristocrats did not favor domestic cuisine, as did the entire aristocracy of the world. Be sure to serve them something special, foreign, not the same as what their compatriots eat. I read Russian classics with envy not for the dishes that our ancestors ate, but because these people were so full of life and delight in its wonders. Here, for example, is Derzhavin:

Crimson ham, green cabbage soup with yolk.
Ruddy yellow pie, white cheese, red crayfish,
What pitch, amber - caviar, and with a blue feather
There are motley pike there: beautiful!

Or, for example, Salytkov-Shchedrin’s story “How one man fed two generals”: ​​“Yesterday,” one general read in an excited voice, “the venerable chief of our ancient capital had a ceremonial dinner. The table was set for a hundred people with amazing luxury. The gifts of all countries set themselves a kind of rendezvous at this magical holiday. There was also the “Sheksna golden sterlet”, and a pet of the Caucasian forests - pheasant, and, so rare in our north in February, strawberries....."

But Gogol’s “Old World Landowners” has a different meaning: the ability and ability to use various household supplies and the housewife’s passionate desire to please her husband with these benefits. Jam, jelly, and marshmallows were constantly being cooked, made with honey, sugar, and molasses.... We sat down for dinner at 12 o'clock. In addition to dishes and gravy boats, there were many pots with covered lids on the table, so that some appetizing product of the ancient delicious cuisine could not fizzle out.”

Russians live differently during the time of “Oblomov” in Goncharov’s novel. On the pages describing his childhood there is a lot of talk about food. “The whole house discussed dinner... Everyone offered their dish: some soup with giblets, some noodles or stomach, some tripe, some red, some white gravy for the sauce... Caring for food was the first and main concern of life in Oblomovka. »

In Aksakov’s “Family Chronicle” there is almost no detail of the preparations, only a generalized assessment of the dinner: “There were many dishes, one fatter than the other, one heavier than the other: the cook Stepan did not spare cinnamon, cloves, pepper and most of all butter.”

But Chekhov dedicated many works to gluttons. Particularly famous in this sense is the story “Apoplexy,” where the gastric ecstasy of a gourmet who was preparing to swallow a pancake with various snacks was described in detail. The secretary of the world congress talks about food like a poet, his appetite almost makes him hysterical. “The best appetizer, if you want to know, is herring. We ate a piece of it with onion and mustard sauce, now, my benefactor, while you still feel the sparks in your stomach, eat the caviar on its own, or, if you wish, with a lemon, then a simple radish with salt, then again herring, but that’s all - It’s better, benefactor, salted saffron milk caps if you cut them finely, like caviar, and, you know, with onions, with Provençal butter - delicious! But burbot liver is a tragedy!..”

The descriptions go on for a long time: there is cabbage soup, and borscht, and soup, and a fish dish, and great snipe, and turkey, and casserole... And it all ends with the officials, seduced by these conversations, abandoning their work and going to the restaurant.

Again, here the descriptions of food are not an end in themselves, nor a glorification of Russian cuisine. And the dishes are simple, except that they are prepared with inspiration, which we have almost forgotten today. And all Russian classics leave a cheerful impression in this sense. Heroes of literary works continually sit down at the table, get up from the table, drink tastefully, have a snack, clink cutlery, pass each other dishes with appetizing fillings.

So, Derzhavin’s food is perceived with the eyes, Gogol’s food is perceived with the soul, Goncharov’s food is perceived only with the stomach, and for Chekhov, with the tongue.

3. CULINARY PASSIONS OF MODERN TIME

What are the culinary preferences of modern Russian literature? They are missing. For its characters themselves raise some doubts about their existence. In general, they say that the culinary preferences of a given literature can tell a lot about the state of the people to whom it belongs. If dinner tables, snacks, cold and hot dishes disappear from its pages, fresh cucumbers, cooks, kitchen utensils - this means that something is wrong with the people themselves, or, more precisely, with their creative intelligentsia.

In modern literature, food scenes always reek of the triumph of an upstart who has proudly achieved the same benefits as others.The desire to be no worse than the authorities, to leapfrog from one’s environment to higher positions leads to the fact that food turns out to be a measure of a person’s social value. And it’s time to regret not that there is not enough food, but that curiosity, inquisitiveness, and the desire to cook the simplest dish deliciously and with soul have disappeared. After all, so many amazing works of art can be made from bread, onions, cheese, apples, cereals, potatoes, milk, eggs! And we feed each other hard-boiled eggs until the desire to crow appears, and sandwiches, primitive and monotonous, from which only unhealthy heaviness and fullness are acquired.

The science of cooking does not stand still, and we take advantage of the benefits of the 21st century, mercilessly poking our fingers at microwave ovens, food processors and assessing the freshness of products by the date stamped on the packaging. In our age of progress and universal employment, life itself pushes us to the fact that more and more often we buy ready-made factory-produced dishes and cook food from fresh ingredients less and less often. In my opinion, it is cooking that brings a touch of order and peace to the everyday chaos of our modern life. Most people eat to live. But you can eat and enjoy the food.

The “culinary” topic has been practically unstudied in modern literature, yet there is so much scope for research and imagination. We forget how magnificent, simple and rational Russian cuisine is. Nowadays, foreign cuisine appears on our table more and more often. This is not bad, but we forget about our native Russian cuisine, what we are used to, what we have become accustomed to, what is learned from experience, passed on from fathers to children and is determined by the area of ​​our existence, climate and way of life. Time flows inexorably, changing morals, customs, traditions, and only one thing remains unchanged - the hospitality of the Russian home, despite the social class. Despite the dominance of restaurants serving European and Asian cuisine, it is gratifying to see that native Russian cuisine occupies not the least place among the gastronomic preferences of people from other countries.Russian restaurants are common all over the world. There are them in Paris, they are in Vienna, London, Boston and Sydney. INIstanbul has 6 high-class Russian restaurants. Famous Russian restaurateurs and public figures began to open their own restaurants. For example, in Moscow, some of the most famous Russian restaurants are “Ilya Muromets”, “Sudar”, “Gogol” and others ( Appendix II).

I would like to hope that we will revive Russian cuisine, and our favorite dishes will not be hamburger and sushi, but jam made from pine cones or dandelions, real “Pushkin’s Varenets” and veal cheek soup, porcini mushroom jelly, lamb flank with porridge, pike perch and red pancakes….

Practical part

Having studied the history of Russian cuisine and analyzed the culinary preferences of the authors of literature of the 19th century, I decided to try to cook dishes of Russian cuisine, the names of which I came across in works of literature. I was interested in the question: are my peers and people of the older generation familiar with Russian cuisine? Do they like Russian cuisine or prefer fast food? To do this, I conducted a study, which was carried out on the basis of the Municipal Educational Institution “Secondary School No. 32” in Bratsk. It was attended by 20 students of grade 9 “A”, 20 students of grade 11 “A”, as well as 20 school teachers.

Research procedure: development of a questionnaire with the names of dishes, preparation of forms for recording the results, implementation of the study, quantitative and qualitative data analysis, conclusions on the study.

The material for the questionnaire was several names of Russian cuisine dishes from the works ofGogol, Chekhov, Dostoevsky, Goncharov, Saltykov-Shchedrin.The questionnaire contained 10 types of dishes, and survey participants were asked to answer questions.(Appendix III). After conducting the survey, its results were processed.

Survey results

The first question of the survey: “What cuisine do you prefer?” - revealed preferences in cuisine. Having analyzed the results obtained, the following conclusions can be drawn: Appendix IV. Summarizing the results we can conclude:(Appendix V).

Survey results

In the next part of the questionnaire, respondents were asked to read the names of the dishes, answer what kind of dishes they are, and what products they are prepared from. These questions caused certain difficulties for respondents:(Appendix VI)

Summarizing the results, we can conclude that a largeSome respondents are indifferent to Russian cuisine. The problem is that most of the respondents have a very vague idea of ​​what Russian cuisine is, and when reading literary works and seeing the names of dishes in them, children do not have the desire to get to know the traditions of native Russian cuisine.

Survey results

The last question of the survey: “In which literary work did you come across the names of these dishes” - showed how much the respondents like to read and how attentive they are(Appendix VII)

Summarizing the results obtained, it should be noted that there is a certain relationship between age and knowledge and preferences. Young respondents prefer Japanese cuisine, are almost unfamiliar with ancient Russian cuisine and read little; The most read ones are teachers, and they also give preference to Russian cuisine.

During the survey, respondents were very interested in the variety and unusualness of these dishes. After conducting a survey, we proposed holding a culinary tournament. Each participant in the tournament was asked to prepare a dish from a work by Gogol, Chekhov, Pushkin, tell the recipe for its preparation, and, most importantly, not forgetting about literature, present the dish (with an excerpt from the work). The next part of the tournament was a quiz with questions(Appendix VIII).

So, we all have a common weakness: we love to eat delicious food! But for some reason, most of us do not suffer from culinary selectivity. “Foreigners” have long been a part of our diet. And even babies know what hamburgers, sushi and pizza are. But the names of such dishes as perepecha, nanny or botvinya – on the contrary, sound foreign to us. But these are original Russian dishes! All this once again speaks of the deep internal chasm that separates us and our great ancestors. But there are traditions that can not only organically enter the daily life of every family. We must respect our culinary traditions. And for this, first of all, it is necessary to study these very traditions.

Gastronomic art, like theatrical art, is fleeting: it leaves traces only in our memory. It is these memories of exciting and joyful events experienced at the table that make up the plots of culinary prose. It’s not for nothing that the descriptions of food in classical literature, including Russian.

Conclusion

This study was an attempt to combine two of my long-time hobbies - good literature and delicious food. The hypothesis I put forward at the beginning of the research was confirmed: in the age of progress and general employment, life itself pushes us to forget not only about the traditions of the original Russian cuisine, but also about spiritual food. The pursuit of exotic food has become another fun thing for modern people that can distract from the daily stress that always haunts everyday problems. By accepting these culinary innovations, we forget about our native Russian cuisine, about what is learned from experience, passed on from fathers to children and is determined by the area of ​​our existence, climate and way of life.

The traditions of modern Russian cuisine have evolved over many centuries; their formation was significantly influenced by both religion and various historical factors, and therefore it acquired a multinational and regional character.

Having studied the question of the relationship between literature and cooking, we can conclude that recipes, as well as descriptions of the meals themselves and traditions in culinary culture, footnotes explaining the composition and meaning of the dish contained in works of fiction, act not only as material witnesses to the culture of life of peoples, different social groups, but also reveal the diversity of people’s aesthetic ideas about the beauty of the world around them and their tastes.

Judging by the culinary preferences in literary works, one can say a lot about the state of the people to whom it belongs.How many delicious dishes have been prepared for us by such masters of Russian prose as Alexander Pushkin, Nikolai Gogol, Andrei Melnikov-Pechersky, Ivan Goncharov and many, many other “great chefs” of Russian literature. How much pleasure you can get not only from re-reading wonderful passages known from childhood, but also enrich your culinary experience by preparing your favorite dishes of literary heroes.

Everyone loves to eat. Russians too. But among some peoples this process has been brought to gastronomic perfection, while others drink a glass of cane vodka, snack on it with a good piece of dog meat and consider the problem solved. The former call the latter barbarians, the latter call the former rotten aristocrats. And both sides are right in their own way. Because a national gastronomic tradition can only arise among a developed people - and precisely in its cultural layer.

A reasonable person must have innate intuition and a sense of proportion. And there is no need for anyone else to cook cabbage soup. In cooking he will get by with a hamburger, in art with TV, in sports with poker.

So, before preparing dinner, do not forget to look at the pages of fiction, because who, no matter how talented writers, creates national culinary myths.

Bibliography

1. Pushkin A.S. "Eugene Onegin", Eksmo. 2008
2. Pokhlebkin V.V. “From the history of Russian culinary culture”, Publisher: Tsentrpoligraf, Series: Classics of Culinary Art, 2009
3. Gogol N.V. Stories. "Inspector". “Dead Souls”, publishing house: AST, 2008
4. Goncharov I. “Oblomov”, World of Books Publishing House, 2008.
5. Dostoevsky F. “The Brothers Karamazov” Publisher: Series: Russian Classics, Eksmo Publishing House, 2008
6. Literary newspaper No. 43 (6247) (2009-10-21) “Literary cooking, or the Metaphysics of food” Sergey Mnatsakanyan
7. Saltykov-Shchedrin M.E. “Gentlemen Golovlevs” Publisher: Siberian University Publishing House, 2009
8. Chekhov A.P. Stories and stories - from Vlados, 2009
9. http://restaurant-gogol.ru - Restaurant Gogol
10. http://sudar.ru - Restaurant of exclusive Russian signature cuisine "Sudar"
11. http://www.restoran-muromec.ru - Restaurant Ilya Muromec

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APPENDIX I

Culinary repertoire of the Russian people

Tyuri - leaven, bread, milk. Stews - cereals, peas, turnips, cabbage, onions, meat, fish, mushrooms, with game, with crayfish. Okroshka - meat, fish. Botvini - leavened, steamed. Cabbage soup - from fresh cabbage, from sauerkraut, turnip, green. Borscht - made from pickled beets, from hogweed. Heated oil. Kalya - fish, chicken. Rassolnik. Pigus. Hangover. Solyanka - fish, meat. Ukha - simple, saffron, chicken, double, triple, baked, with pounders, with cherevets. Salted fish - layered, barreled, hung, dry. Caviar - grainy lightly salted, roached, pressed, whitefish, boiled in vinegar or poppy milk. Seldyanka. Picklings - cabbage, beets, hogweed, turnips. Pickles - cucumbers, black mushrooms, saffron milk caps, milk mushrooms.

Urines - lingonberries, cranberries, apples, thorns, pears, stone fruits, viburnum, cloudberries, plums, cherries. Corned beef. Buzhenina. Feathered game - fried, brined, baked in sour cream.

Jelly. The intestines are repaired. Nanny. Stuffing box. Telnoye - fish, chicken, meat. Boiled, baked, frying pan. Fish porridge. Meat - boiled, skewered, roasted, frying, baked. Hares - pickled, oven-baked. Brews for meat and game - berries, horseradish, sour cream, cabbage. Crayfish - boiled, crawfish. Baked mushrooms. Cheeses - creamy, sour cream, spongy. Cottage cheese. Broken cottage cheese. Curd cakes. Varenets. Baked milk. Syrniki. The eggs are hot. Drachena.Repnitsa. Bryukovnitsa. Pumpkin. Tebechnik. Steamed turnips. Steamed cabbage. Radishberry. Radish - grated, with kvass, honey, butter, slices. Kissels - pea, wheat, milk, buckwheat, oat, rye. Pancakes - red, milk, millet, pea, cheese. Kundums. Pancakes.Sokovenya. Rebake. Kokurki Leftists. Easter cakes. Varentsy. Gingerbread - honey, mint, broken, raw. Gingerbreads - honey, Vyazma, sugar. Sochni. Pryazhentsy.

Ladders. Larks. Bagels. Vitushki. Buckwheat. Drying. Yarn pies. Pies. Kulebyaki - meat, fish, mushroom. Pies - hearth, yarn, pancake, layered. Loaves - broken, yak, with cheese, fraternal, mixed, set, pancake-shaped. Kurnik Bend. Shangi. Tolokonnik. Zhitnik Wheat Levasha - strawberry, lingonberry, blackberry, raspberry. Mazyunya Salamata Muchnitsa Gustukha

Porridge

Buckwheat porridge. Egg porridge. Live porridge. Glazukha. Oatmeal. Millet porridge. Bearberry porridge

Dessert

Sweet infusions - honey, kvass, berry. Apples and pears in molasses. Radish in molasses

Poppy milk. Pea sy

Beverages

Fruit drinks. Kvass - white, red, berry, apple, cabbage, pear, juniper, birch. The honey used is white, plain, cranberry, and sugar. Sbiten. Blast.

Water - lingonberry, currant, rowan, cherry, strawberry.

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APPENDIX IV

What cuisine do you prefer?

Nadezhkina Maria, Radygina Maria, 10th grade students

Research work on the topic "Traditions of Russian feasts in works of art" was carried out by 10th grade students of a secondary school at the Russian Embassy in the Republic of Cuba under my supervision in 2013. The project includes a historical overview of the traditions of joint feasts from princely feasts to high society receptions of the time of A. Pushkin , story about traditional dishes Russian cuisine, analysis of episodes from the works of I. Goncharov “Oblomov”, N. Gogol “Dead Souls”, I. Shmelev “The Summer of the Lord”. The work materials can be used in literature, history and even technology lessons.

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middle School of General education

at the Russian Embassy in the Republic of Cuba

RESEARCH WORK (project)

on literature

on the topic “Traditions of the Russian feast”

Students: Nadezhkina M.S., Radygina M.A.

Class: 10

Head: Petrova O.V.,

teacher of Russian language and literature

Havana, 2012

1. Introduction

1. Practical significance of the work
2. Relevance of the topic of work
3. Goals and objectives
4. Review of information sources

1. Main part

1. What is traditional Russian cuisine?
2. The world of dishes on the pages of the poem by N.V. Gogol's "Dead Souls"
3. Kitchen as the basis of life in the novel by I.A. Goncharov "Oblomov"
4. Holidays and Lenten dishes in the work of I.S. Shmelev "Summer of the Lord"

1. Conclusion

Introduction

1. Practical significance

Research work on the topic “Traditions of Russian feasts in works of art” includes a historical overview of the traditions of joint feasts from princely feasts to high society receptions of the times of A.S. Pushkin, a story about traditional dishes of Russian cuisine, analysis of episodes from the works of I.A. Goncharova “Oblomov”, N.V. Gogol “Dead Souls”, I.S. Shmelev "The Summer of the Lord". The work has a practical orientation. The materials can be used in literature lessons when studying the following works of fiction: the novel by I.A. Goncharov “Oblomov”, poems by N.V. Gogol’s “Dead Souls”, stories by I.S. Shmelev "The Summer of the Lord". And also in history and technology lessons, since the work materials expand knowledge about Russian dishes national cuisine and the emergence of Russian feast traditions.

1. Relevance of the topic

The topic “Traditions of Russian feasts in works of art” is relevant in today’s world of fast food and the disappearance of traditions of shared meals, the loss of recipes for dishes of Russian national cuisine.

1. Goals and objectives

To study the issue of the origin of Russian feast traditions

Describe the features of Russian national cuisine

Analyze works of art in which food is one of the leading motifs

1. Review of main sources

For this work the following were studied:

Works of fiction: novel by I.A. Goncharov “Oblomov”, poem by N.V. Gogol “Dead Souls”, story by I.S. Shmelev “The Summer of the Lord”, novel by A.S. Pushkin "Eugene Onegin"

Explanatory Dictionary of S.I. Ozhegova, V.I. Dalia.

The book “Russian feast” by M. Ulybysheva and V. Zapetsky, whose information about the traditions of the Russian feast formed the basis of part 1 of the work.

1. Historical review. Traditions of our ancestors

Man in modern world lives on the run, is late for something, is in a hurry. On the run, he snacks on whatever comes to hand. But even in this hectic life, sooner or later he wants to sit down at a laid table and taste delicious and plentiful treats. Salted mushrooms, potatoes generously drizzled with butter, golden brown pies, piping hot pies... And for relatives or friends to sit side by side at this table and have a conversation. Otherwise the song would have been drawn out - drawn-out, soulful.

And this is not just a craving to eat or relax. This tradition our ancestors. It, embedded in genetic memory, has become an integral part of our lives. Tradition - gather at the table, have a feast in the mountains.

Echoes of this tradition can be heard in old Russian fairy tales. In them, the feast represents a happy ending to a matter, the fulfillment of a dream, the achievement of what is desired. That’s why fairy tales often ended like this – with words about a feast. For example, the tale about Ivan Tsarevich and Koshchei the Immortal:“Ivan Tsarevich came home and threw a feast on the mountain”. Or here is the ending of the fairy tale about Emelya:“And upon arrival they planned a feast for the whole world”. This funny saying is also loved by storytellers:“And I was there, I drank honey beer, it flowed down my mustache, but it didn’t get into my mouth».

Russian proverbs, like a mirror, reflect the generosity of the Russian soul, its hospitality and hospitality.

Whatever is in the oven is all on the table - swords.

The hut is not red in its corners, it is red in its pies.

In Rus', give it to the guest first.

I was driving by, but turned around in the smoke.

Bread and salt are at the gate, you can’t turn it around like that.

There is no doubt that the customs of the cuisine of any nation reflect its way of life, its history, and its spiritual culture.

Long Orthodox fasts and the lack of sun and warmth necessary for agriculture also probably affected our eating habits. The ancestors had to give up fast food, that is, meat. But what cuisine can boast of such an abundance of mushroom pickles? Where else in the world are so many types of healthy honey collected?

Moderation for oneself and boundless generosity for guests have long been intricately combined in our people. Therefore, in the Russian feast one can see both extreme modesty and abundance. Russian people knew how to both strictly fast and break their fast from the heart.

Feasts and hearty meals accompanied, and still accompany today, our life on holidays and celebrations. We can probably say that they embody every person’s dream of a happy and prosperous life - let everyone around be well-fed and satisfied!

Russian people really liked to feast. After all, with rare exceptions, the soul rejoiced at feasts. And our ancestors began to do this for every reason: they won a victory over the enemy - a feast! A new temple was consecrated - a feast! The new prince ascended the throne - also a feast!

Folk feasts occupied a special place in Russian history. The prince invited all the people to such a feast, young and old, so that no one would remain hungry or offended.

K. Makovsky. Boyar wedding feast of the 17th century

Our ancestors considered it shameful to abuse alcohol. There were no strong drinks back then. And they drank honey. That old honey was special.

“Honey” was the name given to specially prepared drinks. They prepared honey for feasts in large barrels, adding juices for fermentation. That’s why there were a great many varieties of it: cherry, currant, juniper, red, raspberry, bird cherry. It was kept in such barrels for at least ten years, and it was called set. In the 16th century, it was allowed to drink honey and beer only four times a year.

What did they eat at princely feasts?

Not a single princely feast was complete without a roasted swan. It is not known how the ancient cooks contrived, but they only fried these birds whole. Moreover, so that a beautifully curved swan neck, crowned with a head with a gilded nose, rises above the dish. Their snow-white wings were tied to the carcass in a special way. These swans were brought into the chambers on huge trays and placed on the prince’s table. And with his own hand he cut off someone’s wing, someone’s breast, someone’s tail...

IN. Shilov. Boyar feast

In addition to swans, geese, peacocks, cranes and other birds were roasted. A constant dish at the feast was a whole roasted wild boar.

Ceremonial royal dinners were held in large rooms, where tables stood in several rows. When everything was ready, they announced: “Sire! The food is served." He entered the dining room and took a place on the dais. And the feast began! This is how we talk about a rich table, a generous treat.

In the meantime, only the essentials were placed on the tables: bread, salt, vinegar, pepper and cutlery. But we wouldn’t have seen any plates among them—we didn’t know them yet. As soon as the king sat down on the throne, the servants bowed low to him and went to get food. They walked two people in a row and brought up to a hundred dishes at a time.

Court ranks, such as stolnik, kravchiy and chashnik, no longer exist today, and these words have fallen out of use. The steward is the one who looked after the table, the cup maker made sure that the guests’ bowls were full, and the keeper’s duties included cutting, that is, breaking or cutting, roasts and pies.

Meat and fish dishes were cooked whole, which made them especially juicy and delicious. And everyone, without exception, was decorated in a special way. The fish with feathers inserted into them looked like strange birds!

When the guests left, they were offered to take meat dishes and pies with them “for the trip.” Not accepting these gifts meant angering God and offending the owner.

Peter's times

Much changed under Tsar Peter I. Royal dinners also became different - almost without servants. Even if Peter dined with one of his ministers, generals or naval officers, only his chief cook (as the clerk was now called), his orderly and two pages approached the table. Lackeys appeared at his table only at ceremonial dinners.

The biggest innovation was the assemblies (free meetings). Here you could meet the right people, talk about business. Unlike previous times, women were also invited here. The owner no longer met the guests, did not see them off and did not treat them. Moreover, he himself might not be at home! He only had to prepare the chambers with laid tables. The Assembly was scheduled for certain hours, but everyone could come (without an invitation) and leave as they pleased. Not only high ranks and nobles could come, but also noble merchants and famous craftsmen.

S. Khlebovsky. Assembly under Peter I

Pushkin times

Under the first Russian tsars, the feasts of noble and ordinary people were similar, differing only in the quantity and sophistication of some dishes. After Peter, everything changed, and the Great Great Patriotic War also contributed to this. French revolution, from which many nobles fled from France to Russia.

Life in the capital St. Petersburg has become completely different. Nobles and rich townspeople, if they did not have to work themselves, got up late, had dinner no earlier than four, drank evening tea no earlier than ten, and went to bed late at night.

This is how A.S. Pushkin in “Eugene Onegin” described this life:

What about my Evgeniy? Half asleep
He goes to bed from the ball;

And St. Petersburg is restless

Already awakened by the drum.

The merchant gets up, the peddler goes,

A cabman pulls to the stock exchange,

The okhtenka is in a hurry with the jug,

The morning snow crunches under it.

I woke up in the morning with a pleasant sound.

The shutters are open; pipe smoke

Rising like a pillar of blue,

And the baker, a neat German,

In a paper cap, more than once

He was already opening his vasisdas.

It became the norm to hire chefs from abroad; French chefs were especially loved. Then many new recipes appeared, and the very nature of the feast changed. A custom arose to alternate heavy dishes - meat, fish - with those that had a neutral taste. The tastier seemed to be those dishes that were considered basic.

2. What is traditional Russian cuisine?

What is traditional Russian cuisine? What are its characteristic features? One of the most famous authors of books about Russian cuisine, V. Pokhlebkin, notes the Russian people’s passion for sour things. Even at the dawn of the development of our national cuisine, our ancestors fell in love with bread made from sour (yeast) dough. What kind of culinary delights did not appear later on the basis of sour dough - sochni, saiki, pancakes, pancakes, crumpets, pies - it’s impossible to list everything.

In Rus', bread is the head of everything! This saying says a lot. And how could it be otherwise, since our ancestors were mostly peaceful farmers? Russian people have always treated bread on a par with sacred objects and treated it with reverence. Dropping it or throwing it away was considered a considerable sin.

Rye, black bread, cabbage soup or stew - this was the lunch, for example, of a worker or peasant in the 19th century.

Kirill Datsyuk. Bread and milk

Sour sauerkraut, sour kvass - the Russian table cannot do without them. Let's remember the saying - "professor of sour cabbage soup." And Russian sour cabbage soup is not a soup at all, but a drink. At one time it was very common in Rus' and was made quite simply. It’s so simple that you don’t need to become a professor at all.

Real Russian jelly was also made with sour leaven. And they were not cooked from berries, but from oats, wheat, and rye.

But what else makes up the uniqueness of Russian cuisine? It must contain liquid hot and cold dishes. What we call today with the French word “soups” is actually from our ancient history. But earlier in Rus' they were called “khlebovo” and there were a huge number of them: cabbage soup, ukha, kalia, zatirukha, chattel, stew. Later borscht, rassolnik, and solyanka were added here.

There are many vegetable, fish, and mushroom “delicacies” on our table. And this is understandable, because most days of the year were fasting. In our classical literature today we come across so many forgotten and half-forgotten names of fish dishes: sigovina, taimenina, pike, halibut, catfish, salmon, sturgeon, stellate sturgeon, lugin, white fish... The fish soup could be perch, ruff, burbot, and sterlet...

Russian cuisine has always been rich in flour “joys”: gingerbread, bagels, bagels, rolls, gingerbread...

A separate story - this is porridge. Truly National dish! Unfortunately, today modern people prefer porridge less and less in their diet. And since ancient times it was no coincidence that it was said about a weak, sick person that he ate little porridge.

The morning diet of every Russian person was limited to the remains of yesterday's food, which were still warm in the oven. Or even just a piece of bread and a mug of kvass. The day began very early, even before dawn. Everyone in the family had their own responsibilities, so there was no communal breakfast. But at noon the work came to a standstill: it was time for lunch and then everyone gathered together. The head of the family read a short prayer and took his place on a bench in the corner under the images, at the “upper” end of the table. Women at that time did not sit at the table, they only served food and ate later themselves.

After lunch there was an “hour of rest”, which could last several hours. Then normal work resumed until dinner. Dinner took place, like lunch, in a decorous, if not solemn, atmosphere. Then came free time, but how much of it was left? After all, tomorrow morning, early in the morning, we had to get down to business again...

In the summer, a simple peasant has freedom: you can pick mushrooms in the forest. They ate many edible herbs - sorrel, sorrel, dill. In hungry, lean years, cakes were baked from quinoa, nettle, and wormwood.

Tea and sweet table

Russian cuisine is characterized by an abundance of special drinks: honey, sbitney, kvass, fruit drinks. Now this abundance is being replaced by tea. But tea also took root on Russian soil. This is not just a drink to quench your thirst - while drinking tea you can have a conversation, and without it a Russian person is bored.

The tea also came with jam. Housewives achieved truly extraordinary skill in preparing it. Apple, pear, plum, strawberry, raspberry, currant, gooseberry jams...

Our cooks loved to surprise royal and boyar guests with images of eagles, swans, ducks, pigeons, kremlins, towers, and people made from sugar.

Nuts – pine and hazelnut – were also considered a delicacy.

Having studied the issue of the origin of Russian feast traditions and characterized the features of Russian national cuisine, we can begin to study works of art in which Russian writers assign a special role to the description of dishes and joint meals of their heroes. For analysis, let's take the poem by N.V. Gogol “Dead Souls”, novel by I.A. Goncharov “Oblomov” and the story by I.S. Shmelev "The Summer of the Lord".

3. “The world of dishes on the pages of the poem by N.V. Gogol “Dead Souls”

Gogol had long dreamed of writing a work “in which all of Rus' would appear.” This was supposed to be a grandiose description of the life and customs of Russia in the first third of the 19th century. The poem “Dead Souls,” written in 1842, became such a work.

Aksakov wrote: “If fate had not made Gogol a great poet, then he would certainly have been an artist - a cook.”

The heroes of his work reveal their culinary preferences, and references to various dishes of Russian national cuisine are often found on the pages of the poem. They contain lengthy descriptions of feasts, dialogues about the history of a particular dish, debates about the taste benefits of different dishes. The description of food itself is so clear and detailed that it not only serves as an additional characteristic of the character, but creates, if not the action itself, then its basis.

Here is a description of the kulebyaki ordered by Pyotr Petrovich Rooster, a character in Gogol’s “Dead Souls”:

“Yes, make a kulebyak with four corners; in one corner put me sturgeon cheeks and elm, in the other put buckwheat porridge, and mushrooms with onions, and sweet milk, and brains, and you know something like that... Yes, so that on one side it, you know, it would be browned, but on the other hand, let it go lighter. Yes, from the bottom, you know, bake it so that it crumbles, so that all of it is permeated, you know, with juice, so that you don’t hear it in your mouth - like snow has melted.”

By the way, Gogol is absolutely accurate here in his description of the ancient Moscow kulebyaka. They put different minced meat into it, arranged it in wedges, dividing each type of pancakes “into four corners” (so that the dough did not get wet due to the juicy filling). It was made from unleavened, crumbly dough. There was a special art in ensuring that the kulebyaka was well baked with such complex minced meat.

And now we’ll learn about the gastronomic preferences of another hero, Sobakevich. The demands of this character are colossal - all pig, all ram, all goose. Gogol writes: “There was no soul at all in this body.”

Sobakevich (to Feodulia Ivanovna): Cabbage soup, my soul, is very good today! (He dumps a huge piece of nanny onto his plate.) (To Chichikov) You won’t eat this kind of nanny in the city, God knows what they’ll serve you there!

Chichikov: However, the governor has a good table.

Sobakevich: Do you know what all this is prepared from? You won't eat it when you find out.

Chichikov: I don’t know how it’s prepared, I can’t judge that, but the pork cutlets and boiled fish were excellent.

Sobakevich: It seemed so to you. After all, I know what they buy at the market. That rascal cook over there who learned from the Frenchman will buy a cat, skin it, and serve it instead of a hare.

Feoduliya Ivanovna: Ugh! What a nuisance you are talking about.

Sobakevich: Well, darling, that’s how they do it, that’s how they all do it, it’s not my fault, that’s how they all do it. Whatever is unnecessary that Akulka throws, so to speak, into the trash can, they throw it into the soup!

Feodulia Ivanovna: You always tell this at the table!

Sobakevich: Well, my soul, if only I did it myself, but I’ll tell you straight to your face that I won’t eat nasty things. Even if you put sugar on a frog, I won’t put it in my mouth, and I won’t take an oyster either: I know what an oyster looks like. (to Chichikov) Take the ram. This is a side of lamb with porridge! These are not the fricassees that are made in noble kitchens from lamb, which has been lying around on the market for four days! The German and French doctors invented all this, I would hang them for this! They came up with a diet, treat with hunger! Because they have a German liquid nature, they imagine that they can cope with the Russian stomach! No, this is all wrong, this is all fiction, this is all... (Shakes his head angrily). Not so for me. When I have pork, bring the whole pig to the table, bring the whole lamb, bring the whole goose, bring the whole goose!”

“Please humbly have a bite,” said the hostess.

The list of meat dishes from our ancient cuisine is very wide and varied. Their character was largely determined by the features of the Russian oven: frying in large pieces and whole carcasses, baking... Piglets were fried whole, lamb and pork in large pieces and only occasionally beef, poultry and game in carcasses. The Russian people have preserved their devotion to meat, fried in large pieces, since ancient times. Fried meat dishes were popular: lamb breast and shoulders stuffed with buckwheat porridge with chopped eggs, ducks and geese with apples, chicken stuffed with rice with raisins or prunes, stuffed pork legs, etc.. )

Now let's see what Korobochka treated Chichikov to.

“Chichikov looked around and saw that on the table there were already mushrooms, pies, skorodumki, shanishkas, spindles, pancakes, flatbreads with all sorts of toppings: topping with onions, topping with poppy seeds, topping with cottage cheese, topping with skimmed eggs, and who knows what was missing.” .

Korobochka is a hospitable, hospitable hostess, but treats Chichikov exclusively with flour dishes. This is understandable: meat is expensive, she will not kill cattle.

A quick summary of the dishes mentioned earlier:

Nanny - a dish that is served with cabbage soup and consists of

lamb stomach stuffed with buckwheat porridge, brain

and legs.

Skorodumki - an old recipe for pancakes.

Shanishki – molded in the form of cheesecakes, have curved

top edges with various fillings and lubricants.

Spun - pancake, thick pancake in oil.

Snyatochki (snetki)- smelt-shaped fish.

I've baked it – filling for pancakes or pancakes that are not

wrapped inside the finished pancake and poured onto

frying pan and pour dough on top. The filling turns out

inside the pancake and fried on one side.

The gastronomic tastes and inclinations of Gogol’s landowners from “Dead Souls” are an important characteristic, a means of revealing characters, one of the ways of the author’s assessment and a “tool” for symbolizing their images. But the depiction of a hearty meal in “Dead Souls” is not reduced only to an ironic interpretation and to the depiction of the sin of gluttony, because a hearty and even excessive dinner is a manifestation of the hospitality that Gogol liked. And Rus' has always been famous for its hospitality.

4. Kitchen as the basis of the way of life in the novel

I.A. Goncharov "Oblomov"

In the novel by I.A. Goncharova “Oblomov” food plays a very important role. For the main character of the novel, Ilya Oblomov, the kitchen was the basis of their way of life.

In the text of the novel, the attitude towards food acts as a measure of the attitude towards the world, life, and also becomes a kind of “language” that allows you to express your own view of the world. Therefore, food, just like sleep, is not only the satisfaction of physical needs - they eat and sleep as much as the “soul” wants, as much as the “soul” asks. From here in Goncharov’s novel they eat often and deliciously. In Oblomovka there is nothing like this"occupied the minds "as caring for food. Loved to eat here:“The main concern was the kitchen and dinner. The whole house discussed dinner". According to the life philosophy of the inhabitants of Oblomovka,“a decent person should first of all take care of his table”. Oblomovites don’t just eat and drink: their appetite imperceptibly turns into true gourmetism, cooking into virtuoso skill, and the kitchen into a kind of temple.

The apotheosis and symbol of Oblomov’s satiety and general contentment becomes the gigantic pie that was baked on Sunday and holidays. This pie required double the usual amount of flour and eggs. Hence, as a consequence,“there was more groaning and bloodshed in the poultry yard”. Pies in Oblomovka were baked with chicken and fresh mushrooms. This pie“The gentlemen themselves ate the next day; on the third and fourth days, the leftovers went to the maiden room; the pie lived until Friday, so that one completely callous end, without any filling, was given as a special favor to Antipus, who, crossing himself, undauntedly destroyed this curious fossil with a crash.”. The feast continued until it was time to bake a new pie. In Oblomovka, as noted by Yu.M. Loschits, there is a real cult of pie. In the popular worldview, pie is one of the most visible symbols of a happy, abundant, gracious life. Pie is a “feast in the mountains”, a cornucopia, the pinnacle of general joy and contentment. Feasting, festive people gather around the pie. Warmth and fragrance emanate from the pie. Oblomovka’s “sleepy kingdom” revolves around its pie, like around a hot sun.” Agafya Pshenitsyna also prepares these kinds of pies; it is no coincidence that Zakhar says that they are no worse than Oblomov’s.

Eating together in this world is not an everyday detail, but a symbol of unity. From time immemorial, food, both in one’s family and in the world, has been a sacred act and ritual among the Russian people. It began and ended with a prayer of thanksgiving. Cheerful and relaxed communication, friendly family conversation, discussion of upcoming affairs - everything happened at the table. The table was a rallying point for family brotherhood, a symbol of unity. In the dream world of Ilya Ilyich Oblomov, “food” must certainly be shared with spiritually close people, with a “colony of friends” living in the neighborhood; it is then that it acquires its true, social content. When Stolz visits Oblomov for the first time during his birthday on the Vyborg side, he shares a table with his friend. Their dialogue has common themes, openness, trust, correctness, and sensitivity. The dialogue ends with a toast to Olga. Both characters eat and drink the same things, which encourages mutual understanding in the conversation. During Stoltz’s second visit to Oblomov, the conversation testifies to the spiritual disunity of the heroes. At the table Oblomov alone talks about food.“Stolz winced as he sat down at the table. Stolz did not eat either lamb or dumplings, put down his fork and watched with what appetite Oblomov ate it all.”

So we see that the traditions of feasting, which originated long ago in Rus', play a significant role both in the lives of both the heroes of the novel and in ours. These traditions have taken root so much that we don’t even notice how we follow them.

5.Holiday and Lenten dishes in the work of I.S. Shmeleva

"Summer of the Lord"

The story “The Summer of the Lord” is the pinnacle of the late work of the great Russian writer Ivan Sergeevich Shmelev. In the story, the abundance and variety of descriptions of food plays an important role. The description of the food is artistic device, not only helping to recreate the atmosphere of life and everyday life of old Russia, but also showing the world of childhood through the eyes of a child.

Fast

Food is necessary for a person to maintain strength, but gluttony, gluttony, drunkenness, and excessive love of sweets in Rus' have always been considered a sin. Russian people tried to streamline their attitude towards food and introduce rules that would limit its consumption. Orthodoxy prescribed abstinence in food, and believers observed the fasts established by the church charter. Of the 365 days a year, more than 220 were fasting days, when it was forbidden to consume meat and dairy products, eggs, and sometimes, for example, Lent, and fish.

However, despite all these restrictions, the Lenten Russian table is very diverse.

For example, in the story “The Summer of the Lord” there was so much to see in the Lenten market!“Cloudberries and blueberries - for Lenten pies and jelly”, “lingonberries, apples in them. How many lingonberries!”, “Peas... pink, yellow, in sleighs, in bags.”, “Cabbage, stalks, winter grass, like sugar. If you take a bite, it will click.” “And here I smelled cucumbers, a strong and fresh spirit, dill, horseradish. The golden cucumbers are playing in the brine and dancing.” “Tubs of salted watermelon, under the cabbage a green patch glistens. “Pickles: Antonovka, cloudberries, gooseberries, ruddy lingonberries with linen, plums in tubs. Any kvass - bread, sour, malt, mash, old - with ginger...” “Saiki, bagels, sushki... Kaluga, Borovskie, Zhizdrinskie, - sugar, pink, mustard, with anise - with cumin, with salt and poppy seeds, Pereslavl bagels, Vitushi, podkovki, larks... lemon bread, poppy seed bread, with saffron, sieve weight with raisins, pecked..." “And there - in stacks of ice plates - Lenten sugar, like ice, green, and pink, and red, and lemon,” “soaked prunes, scatterings of sear, raisins, and loquat, and vineberries in strings, and apricot alyssals with leaves, sugar sesame seeds, sugared raspberries and rowanberries, blue jug raisins, truly lean, fudge bars with Christmas trees in jelly, butter halva, Kaluga kulebyakoy dough, Belevskaya marshmallow... and gingerbread, gingerbread - there is no end.” “Salted and resinous saffron milk caps, monastic ones, snack bars.” “Mozhaisk boletus, bishop’s milk mushrooms, selected Lopasninsky mushrooms, in honey vinegar...”

Easter

The Day of the Resurrection of Christ - Easter - is one of the most important Orthodox holidays per year. And not a single holiday is complete without Easter cakes. They are always baked according to a special recipe so that they turn out fluffy and tall. Easter is a must-have dish festive table in honor of the Resurrection of the Lord, symbolizing the Paschal Lamb (a lamb is a meek, gentle, trusting creature). In the Orthodox tradition the Savior is compared with him.

Traditional painted eggs create a special festive mood for Easter. Housewives have achieved great skill in this. The eggs are decorated with fancy patterns and painted in various colors. But most of all the eggs are colored red.

According to Orthodox tradition, colored eggs were illuminated in churches. They were given to relatives and friends, distributed to the poor, and left in the church. Consecrated Easter Egg they ate first when they returned from matins and sat down at the festive table.

These are the eggs I was looking at main character in the story “The Summer of the Lord”:

“Here is crystal-gold, through which everything is magical. Here - with a stretchable fat worm; it has a black head, black beady eyes and a tongue made of scarlet cloth. With soldiers, with ducks, carved and bone..."

The presence of the food motif in I. S. Shmelev’s book “The Summer of the Lord” is not just a part of everyday life, but a deeper and more meaningful concept: it is both bodily food and spiritual. I. S. Shmelev continues the best traditions of Russian classics of describing food in a literary text as an important detail in creating an image.

I. Kaverznev. Bright Sunday

Conclusion

In the course of the work, the issue of the emergence of Russian feast traditions was studied, the features of Russian national cuisine were characterized, works of art were analyzed: the novel by I.A. Goncharov “Oblomov”, poem by N.V. Gogol “Dead Souls”, story by I.S. Shmelev “The Summer of the Lord”, novel by A.S. Pushkin “Eugene Onegin”, which reflected the traditions of the Russian feast.

Conclusion:

Russian cuisine, like any other, reflects the life, history and spiritual culture of the people. Hospitable and open, the Russian man knew how to have fun, knew how to express his affection for the guest by putting his soul into what he served on the table. Works of fiction are a kind of textbooks on the history of a people.

Bibliography

1. Gogol N.V. Stories. Dead Souls. – M.: Olimp; LLC “Firm “AST Publishing House”, 1998. – 688 p.
2. Goncharov I.A. Oblomov: A novel. – M.: Olimp; TKO AST, 1996. – 688 p.
3. Krasnova E.V. Flemish style of “Oblomov”: the motif of “food” and its functions in the novel by I.A. Goncharova // Third Maimin Readings. - Pskov, 2000. P. 81.
4. Loschits Yu.M. Goncharov. - M., 1977. P. 172.

1. Ozhegov S.I. Dictionary of the Russian language: Ok. 57,000 words. – M.: Rus. lang., 1988. – 750 p.
2. Pushkin A.S. Dramatic works. Novels. Stories - M.: Olympus; LLC “Firm “AST Publishing House”, 1988. – 704 p.
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5. www.easycooking.ru
6. www.foodested.ru