Fan on the apartment heating radiator. We make a convector from an ordinary battery

Asama Trade LLC supplies climate equipment manufactured in accordance with modern requirements for energy efficiency. We offer water air heaters with a fan (water heat guns), which are designed to maintain the required temperature conditions in industrial, warehouse, agricultural and administrative premises, trading floors, offices and residential buildings. A feature of water heaters with a fan is that they can quickly and evenly heat a large amount of air, including in buildings with high ceilings.

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Type: Wall mounted room thermostat with fan speed control

Temperature setting range: +10 to +30 °C

Operating temperature range of the device: from 0 to +40 °C

Speed ​​control: Yes, three-stage

Country of manufacture: Poland

Warranty period: 1 year

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Heating power: 9.6 kW

Air exchange: 1200 m³/hour

Maximum jet length: 8.5 m

Water heaters with fan

The ASAMA company offers water heaters with the fan. We sell climate equipment that meets modern requirements for energy efficiency. We carry out delivery.

Source: www.asamagroup.ru

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Choosing a hot water fan heater and its principle of operation

In the modern world, the market offers a wide range of various heating and climate devices, with which you can control and adjust the temperature in the premises. Unfortunately, most of these systems are designed for a small area, as they have a significant consumption of fuel or energy.

Therefore, for industrial premises, which often also need to maintain certain climatic conditions, a water fan heater has been created.

The water heating system enjoys low efficiency in relation to the time spent on heating the room. Hot water radiators take a long time to heat the air to a certain temperature. In addition, this system does not form local zones of increased heating, which are often needed by some enterprises, such as service stations or car washes, where quick drying of some parts is necessary. In connection with such circumstances, it is recommended to use a water heater, which includes two heating systems at once - water and air.

Hot water heater

How it works?

A fan heater with a water heat source creates air currents with a large fan, providing a high return of thermal energy. The role of the heating source in the fan heater is played by hot water, which comes from central heating systems. And to distribute heat from the radiator, an installed electric fan is used, which pumps warm air into the room.

More clearly, the operation of this system can be imagined as follows: an ordinary, familiar to most, water heating battery, placed in a special box and equipped with an efficient fan. Through the openings in the front panel, hot air enters the room. Thus, all the received heat is spent as much as possible and purposefully.

In addition to the economic benefits, such industrial water fan heaters are also convenient because their installation and maintenance do not require additional knowledge or the involvement of special skilled craftsmen. The principle of operation is clear and accessible even to non-specialists.

What are the advantages and what are the specifics?

Unlike most of the most common methods of space heating, heating with a fan heater has a whole list of positive qualities:

Wall-mounted water heater

• Efficiency of consumption of received heat . The heat coming from the battery does not rise up to the ceiling and is not spent on heating the walls, as in a conventional heating system, but immediately warms up the lower layers of the air in the room. Therefore, the return from such a radiator is felt from the first minutes.
• Possibility of local heating . The heat coming from only one side of the protective box can be used purposefully. This makes it possible to increase the air temperature in a certain place in the room, for example, to speed up drying, defrosting or to heat individual objects faster.
• Operational safety . Optimum utilization of the generated heat makes it possible to be satisfied with moderate temperature heating of the batteries. Therefore, the operation of heating fully meets all the requirements and standards of fire safety. And the presence of a protective box eliminates the possibility of getting burned or accidentally igniting objects that have fallen on the radiator.
• Possibility of heat distribution . Blinds installed on the front panel form uniform air flows in the right direction.
• Adjustable power and intensity . In such heating systems, in addition to the power range of the heater itself, it is possible to change the intensity of the supply of warm air flow. Therefore, even using equipment of low power, it is possible to successfully heat a sufficient area of ​​​​the room.

Overview of the most popular models

Now fan heaters are produced with a capacity of 2 to 90 kW, while the heat supply in one hour can reach tens of thousands of cubic meters. Such a variety of models makes it possible to choose the most efficient and cost-effective heating option for a house, apartment, office, garage or any industrial premises.

According to the type of housing design, floor and wall fan heaters are distinguished. Based on the name, it becomes clear how they are installed and fastened.

• Wall-mounted using a special, durable console that holds the device in a vertical position.
• Floor models may not have a fixed installation site, and if necessary, move freely around the room.

Another distinctive feature of some models of fan heaters is the presence of two circuits. Such devices can perform both traditional heating of premises, and perform the function of an air conditioner, cooling the air. To do this, one circuit is connected to hot water, and the second - to the cold water supply system. Double-circuit devices are somewhat more expensive than conventional ones, but such an overpayment is fully justified by saving the cost of purchasing additional equipment.

Water fan heaters Teplomash

Teplomash produces a series of KEV thermal converters designed to generate 3-120 kW of thermal power. The series includes 16 models of thermal fans.

junior model – Teplomash KEV 25 T3W2

Teplomash KEV 25 T3W2

• Generates from 3 to 10 kW of thermal power, consuming 0.03-0.11 liters of liquid heat carrier per second.
• The fan provides an 8-meter long jet of warm air (30-40 degrees Celsius), supplied in a volume of up to 1200 m3/hour.
• Permissible installation height - 3-4 meters.
• The cost is up to 40 thousand rubles.

senior model – Teplomash KEV T5,6W3

Teplomash KEV T5,6W3

• Generates 45-120 kW of thermal power, consuming from 0.4 to 1.06 liters of coolant per second.
• The length of the warm jet is 27 meters, the air supply is 3.8-7.2 thousand m3/hour.
• Permissible mounting height 5-8 meters.
• Cost - up to 100 thousand rubles .

EUROHEAT fan heaters

Product of EUROHEAT company - water fan heater Volcano

Water fan heater Volcano

• Generates from 10 to 60 kW of thermal power, heating a 25-meter jet of air to a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius.
• The volume of the heat exchanger of this heater is 3.1 liters, the fan motor power is 530 watts.
• Air consumption - 5500 "cubes" per hour.
• Another distinguishing feature of the EUROHEAT Volcano is the polymer housing, which reduces the weight and cost of the product.
• Cost - up to 440 euros .

Ballu fan heaters

Ballu water fan heaters from the BHP series are equipped with polymer cases and swivel arms that increase the heating area. Such heaters can be used both as an independent fan heater and as a duct device built into the supply branch of the ventilation system.

A typical model for this brand is Ballu BHP-W-60

• Generates up to 60 kW of thermal power, "shooting" a jet of warm air at 25 meters.
• The fan capacity is 5000 m3/hour.
• Engine power - 420 watts.
• The temperature of the outgoing (heated) stream is 23-55 degrees Celsius.
• The volume of the heat exchanger is 2.3 liters.
• Mounting height - up to 8 meters.
• The cost is 35-40 thousand rubles.

Where are heaters used?

Based on the principle of operation of such heating devices, it is possible to determine the most effective areas of their application.

1. Heating large rooms. It can be shopping and exhibition centers, sports complexes, shops and warehouses, showrooms, car dealerships and more.
2. Seasonal and periodic heating of industrial premises. Some workshops are not equipped with a heating system due to the peculiarities of the work schedule, but in which sometimes, nevertheless, it becomes necessary to warm up the air. For example, in a car dealership for drying parts after washing or drying parts after painting. Directed flow of warm air is necessary for the speedy drying of washed carpets or car seats. Sometimes additional heating of warehouses with special climatic conditions is required, for example, in cases of a sharp drop in winter temperatures or an excessive increase in humidity.
3. Heating of rooms not connected to a common heating system. Most often it is the basement and basement floors, garages, greenhouses and more.

Such a heating option as the installation of a water fan heater is much more efficient, economical and safer to operate compared to other modern heaters.

And the only condition is the supply of hot water and the ability to connect power to the fan.

The choice of a condensing heating boiler and the principle of its operation How to arrange air heating for a country house - the choice of equipment

Choosing a hot water fan heater and its principle of operation

In the modern world, the market offers a wide range of various heating and climate devices, with which you can control and

How to improve the heating radiator with fans. If it is cold in your apartment and the heating radiators do not heat the room enough, forced airflow of the radiators with conventional fans can help. Forced airflow to a heating radiator is especially useful in cases where natural air circulation is difficult, such as curtains, or the radiator is not under the window.

The easiest and cheapest way is to use computer case fans. Standard 120mm fans are very quiet and consume very little power. In general, they operate on 12 volts, and if you apply 7 or 8 volts to them, they become almost silent.

Fans are attached to each other using conventional cable ties.

Such fans consume about 0.2 -0.3 A. In principle, even an ordinary phone charger will completely “pull” two such fans, it’s another matter that the charges are mostly 5 volts, but the fans will become completely silent and the “dust cycle” will become less. But the effect of blowing will be less. I used a universal 12 volt power supply.

I made the legs for the fans from plastic corners and attached them with cable ties. We just put the structure under the radiator, turn it on and get warm.

A small bonus to all blog visitors, a funny video:

Prologue.

This year, we are experiencing unprecedented frosts. In some regions of the republic, the air temperature dropped to -24ºС, which is an anomalous phenomenon for warm Moldova. I don’t have a thermometer hanging in my room, but I felt that the hand lying on the table began to freeze, and I had to put a piece of foam rubber under it.

In general, like the Amundsens, we are already accustomed to the coolness, but yesterday the chairman of our condominium, collecting signatures for an appeal to the heat supplier, asked what the air temperature was in our apartment. It is unlikely that the heat supplier will increase the temperature of the heat carrier, but perhaps the chairman wants to demand a penalty under the pretext of providing low-quality services.

Whatever it was, but this event first prompted me to measure the air temperature in the apartment, and then to conduct this experiment.

Of course, to say that this experiment was unclean is an understatement. There are too many variables that could affect the accuracy of the result, ranging from the direction of the wind overboard to the activity of the computer running in the test room.

But, the most important parameter, which at other times would not allow this experiment to be carried out at all, is the stability of the coolant temperature.

The fact is that in warmer periods of time, the temperature of the coolant is actively regulated during the day, in order to save energy consumption. When the temperature is abnormal outside, then all the valves open wide.

Purpose of the experiment.

Confirm or refute the assumption that forced cooling of a steam heating battery, even at a coolant temperature of 42ºС, can significantly increase the heat transfer of the system in an ordinary city apartment.

Temperature sensor.

To determine the effectiveness of one or another method of blowing the battery, it was decided to measure the temperature difference between the coolant before and after the central heating battery.

In fact, I started by measuring the temperature of the battery at different points, but the data received could not be processed.

For this, two identical temperature sensors were made based on KMT-17 semiconductor thermistors.

And this is how the sensors were fixed on the pipes of steam heating. To improve contact with the pipe, the thermistor was lubricated with KPT-8 heat-conducting paste.

To reduce the measurement error introduced by air flows, the sensors had to be additionally insulated with foam tape.

Selecting the optimal fan position.

Coolant temperature measurements were made at different positions of the fan relative to the battery. The fan power, however, did not change.

During the experiment, the temperature of the coolant was 43ºС, the air in the room was 20ºС.

In all cases, the distance from the center of the blades to the center of the battery was 70cm.

The difference in readings between the temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet is indicated in arbitrary units, since there was simply nothing to calibrate the thermometer with such high accuracy. At the same time, 0 (zero) conventional units was taken as the reference point, at which the battery cooled naturally.

The air flow is directed from top to bottom, and the angle of inclination of the fan shaft relative to the horizon is 50º. At the same time, the temperature difference at the inlet and outlet of the battery is 11 Conditional Units (hereinafter UE).

The air flow is directed from top to bottom, the fan operates in the “toady” mode (turns from side to side). Temperature difference - 8 UE.

When the battery is blown from the side, the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet is 13 UE.

When directing the air flow to the center of the battery, it was possible to obtain the highest temperature difference - 15 UE.

If you direct the air flow to the center of the battery, but at the same time turn on the "sneak" mode, then the temperature difference will decrease to - 12 UE.

The most advantageous, from the point of view of heat transfer, was the direction of the air flow from the floor towards the plane of the battery.

Experimental data.

First day of the experiment.

All graphs show the change in temperature from 8.00 am to 24.00 pm.

Heat carrier temperature 42ºС.

The graph shows that the system worked more efficiently while the temperature difference between the air and the battery was large. When the difference decreased, the system stabilized.

The air temperature in the center of the room at a height of 65 cm from the floor rose from 15°C to 20°C in 9 hours.

In the future, the temperature rose by another 0.5ºС.

The power consumption of the fan in this case was 35.2 watts.

When, during the experiment, I went out of my room into the corridor, I immediately felt the temperature difference, because by that time I had already taken off my warm clothes.

I went to the barn and brought another fan from there. This fan was not equipped with a power switch, so I connected it through a homemade triac controller, the design of which is described in detail.

Well, life has become better, life has become more fun!

Second day of the experiment.

In the morning I again measured the temperature of the coolant, as well as the air temperature in the room. All values ​​remained unchanged, including the temperature overboard.

During the day, no temperature changes were observed.

Third day of the experiment.

The coolant temperature increased by one degree and amounted to 43ºС.

The temperature outside dropped and reached -15ºС.

At the same time, the temperature in the room increased by another 0.5ºС and reached 21.5ºС.

Fourth day of the experiment.

The coolant temperature is still 43ºС.

The temperature outside in the morning is -15ºС.

The temperature in the room in the morning was 21.5ºС.

Since no significant temperature changes were noted over the past day, I decided to increase the air flow and installed a second fan at 10.00.

After 10-15 minutes, the air temperature immediately increased by one degree, and then by another half a degree and reached 23ºС.

Walk like that, I thought, and at 19.00 I turned on both fans at full power. The temperature in two hours increased by one more degree and reached 24ºС.

Results and conclusions.

1. I managed to raise the air temperature in the room by as much as 6ºС, and even by 9ºС in the extreme mode of operation of the fans, which confirmed the assumption that it is possible to increase the heat transfer of the central heating battery, even at such a low coolant temperature.


2. When using a conventional household fan without a speed controller, the room becomes too noisy. However, if you use the heat accumulated in the room, then, for example, you can turn off the fan in the bedroom at night, and, on the contrary, turn it on in the dining room. Then, you can use the fan at full power.


3. If you are in that part of the room where the movement of air generated by the fan is most noticeable, then a false sensation of a decrease in temperature is created.


4. Those who are afraid that the fan "winds" a lot can calculate the monthly energy consumption.

   35 (Watt) * 24 (hours) * 30 (days) ≈ 25 (kWh)

Small details.

To quickly and accurately measure the temperature of a steam heating battery, it is enough to apply a small amount of heat-conducting paste "KPT-8" to the ball of the digital thermometer sensor. The contact point during the measurement must be covered with several layers of fabric or a layer of foam rubber.

The above experiment made me question the accuracy of my digital thermometer. To make sure that his readings were correct, I compared them with the readings of a mercury thermometer. To do this, I immersed both thermometers in hot water to the same depth and followed the readings as the water cooled.

The continuous operation of the fans immediately revealed the weak point of modern devices.

If the Penguin fan of 1973 has a front plain bearing equipped with an oil seal (the arrow marks the hole for filling the oil seal), which allowed it to work for almost 40 years, then in a modern fan there is no such oil seal.

In addition, the "Penguin" has a spring that prevents the occurrence of longitudinal beats of the shaft. The new fan, after two days of operation, began to rumble, because due to the longitudinal beating of the shaft caused by the eccentricity of the propeller, one of the fluoroplastic gaskets quickly wore out.

To eliminate the longitudinal play, it took several ordinary and two thin-walled washers, as well as a gasket cut out of foam rubber.

First I disassembled the stator.

Then I put thin-walled washers and a gasket on the motor shaft, and with the rest of the washers I increased the gap between the bearings.

To ensure any long-term operation of the fan, I cut out an oil seal from felt, and from some kind of nylon cover a seal plug and pressed it all into a recess around the shaft. Naturally, the oil also did not regret.

I started thinking about buying two dozen 120mm computer fans. I think if you install them directly between the sections of the batteries, then this should reduce noise and increase the efficiency of heat transfer.

Tired of writing this article, distracted to surf the net. Here's what I managed to dig up on the Internet. On our site repair of the refrigerator electrolux for everyone. If the news is over here, then you can go to another page, there is nothing easier!

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Comments (50)

Nobody, when I wrote about CFLs, I meant video filming. For her, I use lamps that say 2700K. In my house, in general, all the lamps are 2700K, simply because we like the light that resembles the light from incandescent lamps. I balance the target and shoot. Everything is as usual.

For photos, of course, flashes are more convenient for a number of reasons. Firstly, you can shoot handheld, secondly, if you shoot with a DSLR, you can provide a large depth of field at low ISOs, thirdly, the spectrum is much better than that of CFLs, fourthly ... again, energy savings.

Part of the heat escapes through the heat transfer windows

Please describe. At least briefly.

More specifically, this is of interest:

I have a solution that I have been using for 20 years.

Somehow the temperature slowly picks up, it's -20 outside the window and somehow you want to heat the room quickly. I tried to put a fan on, but it really makes noise, and due to the fact that it’s cool in the room, excessive circulation gives coolness

Dmitry, you'll have to wait a couple of days until the room warms up. In order for the fan not to make noise, it will have to be prevented. Alternatively, you can install computer 120 mm under the battery, but the efficiency will be lower.

Well, I'll try, at night I'll have to turn it off so that there is less noise

Hello dear discussers! I accidentally stumbled upon a material about a fan and batteries and could not pass by. Maybe someone is interested in my experience of dealing with winter. 1) Increase the number of sections in the battery. It's absolutely quiet and works great. If the batteries are connected to the riser as in the photographs in the article (input on the bottom right, exit on the top right, or vice versa), then this will not work - about the first 7 sections will be warm, and then it is useless. It is necessary to connect the input-output diagonally, then the entire battery will be hot (checked by me). There is another, less obvious, way to connect pipes, which not everyone knows about - the entrance is from below, the exit is also from the bottom, from the opposite end of the battery. In this case, the entire battery is also heated (checked by me). Of course, some basic plumbing skills are needed here, but polypropylene works wonders. In some cases, it is convenient to pass pipes (at least one) inside the battery, especially if your battery does not have partitions (manufacturers are lazy, and recently such batteries have dominated the market) so that they interfere less. Unfortunately, modification of batteries is best done in the summer, and not in the very cold. 2) Of course, increasing the airflow of the battery increases the temperature in the room. The same decorative boxes help to silently increase the airflow of the battery. But most often they are only decorative and cover the battery only from the front and top. It is better to make them yourself from any material (yes, even from cardboard!) So that they wrap around the battery from all sides, without slots on the sides, but with completely open ends at the top and bottom. The battery will develop traction, like a classic stove (samovar, boiler) pipe. To bring this idea to perfection, the casing around the battery should not just end with an open top end, it should continue with an air duct that goes almost to the ceiling. The air duct can go around the window, repeating the course of the upper branch of the riser (hiding the riser in itself). The cross section of this air duct can be 2-3 times smaller than the cross section of the battery casing, so as not to spoil the view of the apartment too much), but still it should be large enough so as not to create noticeable air resistance. I haven’t tried it myself, but I’m sure the draft will increase significantly, the fan may not be required! There will be no noise either. Or rather, I did not try to do this with air, but I tried it with water. So for several years we had a shower warming up in the hostel: at the bottom of the heating element from an electric kettle, around it is a pipe from a plastic bottle. The water was spinning very strongly, the entire tank had the same temperature. I think that the air will behave in exactly the same way. 3) Well, of course, a fan on the battery! In my life, this served as an emergency measure, allowing me to survive several days of severe frosts, I never left it permanently. The fan, quite right, you need to take a large Chinese floor fan, it is quieter and more efficient, and not the old Soviet small one. A very high speed is not needed here, the mode is enough when the fan is still almost inaudible, or when it is audible, but not yet annoying. You can slow down the fan by turning on a paper capacitor of 400 volts in series with the motor. The capacity is selected for a specific case by typing. It is compact, cheap and quiet (LATR sometimes makes noise on its own, and a thyristor regulator can make the fan motor make noise). This is especially true if there are children in the house - they will definitely wind up the LATR and the thyristor regulator. And the capacitors are so compact that after selecting the capacitance, they can be hidden forever in the box where the buttons are located near the fan, they will not heat up. If you want to further strengthen the method with the air duct, you can add “computer” fans of as large a diameter as possible from below the battery casing, of course, also slow ones. A couple more words on the topic. My batteries do not hang at some distance from the floor, as is customary everywhere, but stand directly on the floor (on plywood 7 mm thick). Therefore, our floor is always quite warm, despite the first floor, that is, there is no layer of cold air on the floor. In the case of air duct casings, it is not necessary to outweigh the batteries, you just need to stretch the casings almost to the floor, leaving only a gap with a total area comparable to the casing section. Then the cold air from the floor will be sucked in by the battery and sent upstairs. Here. Sorry if it's confusing, but my life has so much to do with this fight against this fucking cold! In the last 1-2 years, we accidentally began to heat much better. This is due to the fact that our wrecks are demolished one by one, and the rest get more heat. But for most of my adult life, this was far from the case! Good luck to everyone and warmth in the house! spock2004

P.S. If you buy or change batteries, think ten times what type to get. I am very skeptical about the new (relatively) aluminum batteries. Yes, they look nice. Yes, they have somewhat more surface area per unit volume occupied in the room. I don’t have statistics on corrosion, but purely theoretically, they should corrode more strongly than cast iron ones. Though people don't seem to be complaining. People complain about something else. Aluminum batteries have rather narrow channels inside. This has two bad consequences. 1) They clog up several times faster with the rubbish that the central heating water brings. 2) They only work well if the water temperature is high and/or the circulation is high. And this is far from always found in the expanses of the FSU (I, for example, live in Ryazan). Let's just say, it doesn't occur more often than it does. Of course, if you have a personal cottage with a personal closed heating system, with a circulation pump and a membrane expansion tank, then yes. Then you can use any batteries, even stamped from a thin steel sheet. And for ordinary apartments where “uncle” heats up (to use the funny expression of my grandmother), I highly recommend the old Soviet cast-iron ones! Well, or new Russians, but the same cast-iron ones. They have very low hydraulic resistance, which creates very good conditions for water circulation. And a very large internal volume of this very water. Therefore, even if it takes many minutes to completely change the water in the battery (like mine), the batteries still remain hot. As hot as they can be in this heating system. Well, and, of course, they don’t get clogged with sediment for a long time (I had to cut “registers” from ten-centimeter pipes, where a narrow channel for water remained, and most of the volume was filled with this mixture of rust, oil, scale and God knows what). And another tip: do not paint the batteries!!! Above there was a discussion about what color to paint them. As far as I remember, the color of the surface only affects how it "bakes" to it, and how it radiates depends only on temperature. I'm not sure about this, but I think so, sorry if I'm wrong. In any case, at a coolant temperature of 42 degrees, as in the article, radiation can be neglected, the main thing is heat transfer to the washing air. It needs to be strengthened. The new battery has a small-bumpy surface, repeating the irregularities of the molding earth, and is sprinkled with something red purely symbolically. My advice: leave it like that! Heat transfer will be maximum. After all, microroughnesses also increase the surface area, and not just the fins. If already painted, stop and don't add more! In houses with especially fanatical mothers and grandmothers, the paint layer on batteries can reach millimeters. Needless to say, paint conducts heat much worse than cast iron. For beauty, it is better to wear the same casing. Now you can decorate it however you like! Once again good luck! spock2004

To date, a large number of different heating and air conditioning systems have been created that allow flexible regulation of the conditions of the internal environment in the premises, as well as its maintenance. But most of them are effective only in small areas at home, or have an extremely high level of energy or fuel consumption when heating industrial premises and creating a certain microclimate in them. Therefore, especially for such cases, industrial heating systems were developed, one of which is water fan heaters.

Traditional water heating systems are characterized by low efficiency in terms of the time it takes to warm up a room. Hot water central heating radiators take several hours to warm up a room completely, and their use does not create hot spots that are needed for some activities, such as car washes or service stations to quickly dry something. or car engine parts. Therefore, the best option for working premises of this type are water fan heaters, which combine the basic principles of two heating systems, water and air.

Operating principle

The principle of operation of a fan heater with a water source of heat is in many ways similar to the principle of operation of a heat gun, in which hot air is accelerated by a powerful fan, creating a heat jet and ensuring high work intensity. In the case of a fan heater, hot water plays the role of heating heating, and it comes from the central heating system, therefore, in terms of additional costs, such an apparatus requires only electricity to ensure the operation of the fan, which expels hot air outside.

Such a device makes the heating of working premises the least costly and troublesome, because, to put it simply, a water fan heater is a standard hot-heating battery placed in a special protective box and equipped with a powerful fan. Therefore, for the operation of such an apparatus, it is not necessary to obtain additional knowledge and master complex safety precautions, because individually all the components of a water heater are familiar to most people in everyday life. Also, no additional knowledge and skills are required to create an industrial heating system from fan heaters, it is enough just to roughly imagine how the temperature is distributed in the room and you can do everything yourself.

Fan Features

Of the features, one can separately note the protective box, which protects from direct contact with the radiator itself, therefore, when working with such an apparatus, it is almost impossible to get burned. Also, the box does not allow hot air to spread, which allows directional heating of individual sections of the room and creates local areas with a high temperature where you can quickly dry any tools or household items.

Special shutters on the front side of the device provide a uniform distribution of the air flow. Additional safety is ensured by the fact that the operating temperature range of such a heater is quite modest, so it does an excellent job of heating the room, but there is no risk of fire and burns if touched by hands. The degree of heating of the water battery itself is not enough for spontaneous combustion even if foreign objects made of cloth or paper get inside the box.

Models and their differences

Models of such devices differ from each other mainly only in size and power, both the heating element and the fan. The power range is very wide and can vary from 2 to 90 kW, when creating an air flow with an intensity of one to several tens of thousands of cubic meters per hour. Thanks to this variety, many models with low power are quite suitable for use at home, since in any case they provide significant savings, because electricity is consumed only to ensure the operation of the fan.

Therefore, a small fan heater with a water source of heat is best suited if standard devices are not enough to heat an apartment or office in winter, since even a large number of such devices will not create a high level of electricity consumption. Moreover, it is thanks to the saving of resources that it is possible, if necessary, to buy a larger number of devices in case of a breakdown of some part or other unforeseen situation.

According to the design of the housing, fan heaters are divided into two types:

• floor;
• wall.

Wall-mounted models are equipped with a special mounting console, which allows you to adjust the vertical position of the device and direct the hot air jet in the right direction. There is nothing complicated in the installation of such fans, it is enough just to fix the console on the wall with anchor bolts and connect the water circuit to the device itself.

With minimal technical knowledge, this can be done by hand, without calling a specialist. Floor options do not require fixing and fasteners, they only need a connection to the water supply, so they can be installed in any part of the room and, if necessary, easily moved to another place. The price of wall and floor models practically does not differ and is determined mainly by power, and not by design features.

Some industrial models can be connected to both hot and cold circuits at the same time. A water fan heater with two circuits can work both for heating and cooling a room or a separate part of it. The cold circuit is connected in the same way as the hot one, from the central water supply. The price of such models is slightly higher, but it is better to buy just such a device than separate heating and cooling systems.

Scope of application

• Water fan heaters are most often used to heat large rooms, since in any case, several devices are required so that warm air is distributed evenly, for example, in a store, so it is most advantageous to install just this type of heater.
• When it is necessary to quickly heat up an industrial room to a certain level or dry it, for example, wet-cleaned carpets or car seats. Conventional water radiators of the central heating system require at least one to two hours to completely warm up the atmosphere of the room, while they cannot provide intensive drying if necessary.
• A fan heater with a water source of heat is excellent for permanent heating of basements, as they often have an increased level of humidity due to climatic features or deficiencies in plumbing systems located in the basement. Therefore, in such premises, permanently operating devices are required that provide a low level of humidity, and a water heater meets these requirements as well as possible, as it belongs to the most economical types of heaters.

Among the disadvantages of such devices, one can only note their low mobility and the limited industrial scope of use due to the need for a hot water supply in a heated room. But, by and large, most modern heaters have disadvantages of this kind, which are able to provide the desired temperature throughout the entire volume of the room, and not just in one local area.

At the same time, the versatility and cost-effectiveness of such devices compensates for all possible inconveniences associated with their connection and operation, as they play the role of not only permanent heaters, but also make it possible to quickly dry both the entire room and its individual sections or any objects, so they can also be used as a dryer.

High performance, reliability, design safety, combined with unpretentiousness in use, as well as ease of installation, which is easy to do with your own hands, make fan heaters one of the best types of heaters for industrial and mass use. Due to the large power range, you can buy such a heater not only in the production room, but also at home or in the country.

The centralized heating system involves heating the coolant in the boiler room and its further distribution to residential premises using a system of pipes and radiators. In order for the heating to be as efficient and uniform as possible, it is necessary to choose the right radiators, as well as take additional measures to increase heat transfer.

In the long term, knowing how to increase the heat output of a central heating battery will help the owner achieve maximum comfortable and smooth heating of his home, and permanently solve the problem of cold in the apartment when the heating system is turned on.

In order to understand the principle of operation of various methods for increasing heat transfer, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the variables that affect the efficiency of a heating battery for central heating located in an apartment.

In a general sense, the level of heat transfer of a radiator depends on the following factors:

There are also indirect factors due to which the heating battery connected to the circuit does not work at full capacity, these are:

Improved air convection

Among the simplest methods that will help you understand how to increase the heat transfer of a heating pipe with your own hands is to use the laws of convection. Often, in apartments, batteries are filled with pieces of furniture, protected or hidden behind heavy curtains. All these elements prevent air circulation and it is rather difficult to achieve comfortable temperature conditions in the room, even if the central heating is operating at full capacity.

To optimize the air flow rate, it is necessary to free up the space around the radiator as much as possible.

Without encountering obstacles in its path, the air heated by the battery will move freely around the room and provide the maximum heating level provided by the radiator power.

Using an electric fan to improve convection

The owners, who are well acquainted with the physical laws, according to which heating, sewerage, and water supply are designed in houses, understand that the speed of air circulation affects the heat transfer of the battery. The faster the air circulates in the room, the more heat it can take from the radiator in a given period of time.

To improve natural convection, electric fans can be installed near radiators. It is worth giving preference to silent models that consume a minimum amount of electricity. Mounting the fan should be done at a certain angle to the battery. Such a simple method is quite effective. He is able to raise the temperature in the room by several degrees.

Arrangement of a reflective screen

In the form of a tool to increase heat transfer, foil for radiators can be used, which will help direct the flow of heat energy into the room. From radiators that are not equipped with a reflective screen, heat diverges in all directions, including being given to cold outer walls. The screen helps to focus the direction of heat flow and increase the temperature in the room.

The design of the screen is simple and accessible. It should have a larger area than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bradiators, and be installed on a clean wall behind the battery. Instead of foil, you can use foil isolon - a special material that has a foam base on one side and is covered with reflective foil on the other. You need to mount the screen on the wall using any high-quality construction adhesive.

Purge radiators

Under difficult operating conditions, the central heating battery may become clogged or airy over time. Such changes are accompanied by poor circulation of the coolant and the appearance of cold sections. Blowing out radiators will help eliminate air congestion and blockages - a quick and economical way to increase heat transfer.

There are several methods of purge, involving the use of various types of equipment:

The use of one or more methods of purging radiators will improve the efficiency of radiators and allow you to forget about the cold and discomfort in the apartment.

It is worth remembering that a central heating system is a complex network of radiators and pipelines.

Therefore, it is advisable to perform some types of battery purging together with neighbors, because otherwise the cleaned sections will again reduce heat transfer after a few weeks of operation. You can read more about methods for flushing the heating system.

By following simple and accessible recommendations, you can increase the heat output of any type of radiator and be able to get the maximum benefit from the use of a central heating system. The integrated use of methods is the most rational solution to the problem of poor heat transfer and will help the owner achieve efficient operation of heating devices in his home.