Forced ventilation device in a private house. Arrangement of a ventilation system in the house with your own hands according to the scheme: natural, mixed, forced, with recovery

A properly installed ventilation system is the key to comfortable living in a home. Fresh air, optimal humidity and the absence of unpleasant odors are its main tasks. Today we will talk about how to install the system yourself. , a diagram that is optimally suited for each room, and recommendations from professionals - all this is in our material.

Read in the article:

Why are ventilation systems needed in a private home?

For those who still doubt whether installing ventilation in a private house is necessary, we will give a simple example. Breathable air contains about 60 percent oxygen. The remaining 40 are gases that either have no effect on the body or cause harm to it. Our body consumes oxygen from the air and returns carbon dioxide to the atmosphere.

In addition, in a room with insufficient air circulation, harmful bacteria and viruses actively multiply.

Many parents, who wrap up their children too zealously and close all the windows and vents, cannot understand why their child, nevertheless, is constantly sick. The answer is simple - in the stuffy atmosphere of a sealed room, pathogenic organisms feel excellent and successfully attack their prey. They take as their allies the smallest particles of dust, which freely enter the tissues of the lungs and nasopharynx and settle there, causing a cough and a constant runny nose.

Sometimes diseases take a chronic form. But installing ventilation in a private home will help solve all these problems, and the entire structure will cost much less than a full set of medications for treating family members.

In addition to harm to humans, the tightness of premises also causes damage to the structure itself. The lack of normal air exchange leads to the growth of mold and mildew, the destruction of all natural finishing materials and walls. Excessive moisture affects the plaster, which cracks and peels off from the base. Ventilation projects for private houses provide for the specific purpose of each room and create the necessary microclimate in the bathroom, kitchen, boiler room and living rooms.

Types of ventilation systems

According to the basic principle of operation, ventilation systems can be divided into three types:

View	Description
Active	This system works using electrical appliances - fans. The flow of air flows is carried out naturally through channels protected from dust, insects and rodents. The waste streams are removed by exhaust fans. All ventilation ducts are combined into one common pipe. This design is not difficult to install, but does require energy costs.
Passive	This version of the ventilation system does not need to be connected to the mains and works due to the natural movement of air flow. Such a system will require the installation of several ventilation ducts in each room of the building.
Supply and exhaust	A system that combines the advantages of natural and active ventilation. The incoming air duct is equipped with a filter and a fan that draws in air from the street, and the outgoing air duct is equipped with an exhaust device. This is an economical system; it is enough to install one such device in a room.

Let's take a closer look at the design principles of each of these systems.

Natural ventilation device in a private house

Installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands should be considered at the stage of designing the house. During the construction of walls, ventilation shafts are laid or pipes are fixed if the house is not made of brick. The system works effectively due to the difference in air pressure and temperature inside and outside the building. Advantages and disadvantages of the system:

For natural air exchange, the diameter of the air duct must be at least 13 centimeters. The installation holes are located under the ceiling.

An approximate diagram of natural ventilation in a private house:

The optimal option is one in which a common air duct is located inside the central wall, to which ventilation ducts from all rooms are connected.

Ask a specialist

“The fewer horizontal bends in the system, the more efficient it works.”

Another important point is that the exhaust pipe must be sufficiently insulated. If it is made of brick, then the recommended thickness of the masonry is two and a half bricks. Metal and plastic hoods are insulated with mineral wool. This is necessary so that on frosty days the air duct does not cool down and continues to operate effectively.

The height of the ventilation duct is selected relative to the height of the ridge. To determine the dimensions of the pipe, you need to draw a horizontal line from the ridge, and then another straight line with a rise of 10 degrees. The top point will be the desired value.

Important! The natural ventilation channel for a fireplace or gas boiler must be larger than usual, at least 13 by 26 centimeters. Its masonry is made as airtight as possible.

Features of forced ventilation in a private house

Equipment for forced air exchange is in most cases located in the attic. But there are cases when forced ventilation is installed in the basement of a private house. Usually one powerful device is installed, which will provide exhaust throughout the entire system or be placed in each air duct. In this case, the influx of fresh atmosphere is carried out through windows and vents.

Advice! If doorways in rooms are equipped with baseboards, they should have grilles for unimpeded air penetration.

The system requires installation of additional equipment:

• protective grilles and nets against insects and rodents;
• filters that trap dust, pollen and other allergens;
• cold air flow control valves;
• exhaust fans;
• material that absorbs vibration and sounds;
• air heaters (work in winter);
• air ducts;
• automation units for system control.

To obtain the desired effect, you should choose a forced air exchange system that is most suitable for your home. Here are some possible options:

System	Description
Combined system	Combines natural and forced air supply. Does not require special maintenance and is easy to install.
Forced supply with cooling effect	Installed complete with air conditioner. It is quite expensive and requires regular maintenance.
Forced with heated air flow	The system components include recuperators. They use the heat of outgoing flows to warm up incoming air masses. Recuperators are not cheap devices, but they can be assembled with your own hands.
Recirculation system	Requires the installation of complex devices that mix outgoing exhaust air flows with the street atmosphere and return them to the house. Installation of such a device should only be carried out by qualified personnel.

Expert opinion

HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) ASP North-West LLC

Ask a specialist

“A large general ventilation unit should be located as far as possible from living rooms. Even very good insulation will not make it silent.”

The main requirement for arranging forced ventilation: air masses must move from residential premises (rooms) to non-residential premises (kitchen, bathroom).

Types of systems and their schemes

It is not easy to draw up a diagram of a ventilation system in a private house. This task requires special knowledge and understanding of the correct placement of air ducts, heat exchangers and fans. The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correct layout.

Ask a specialist

“If you do not have experience in designing such systems, entrust this task to professionals. You can carry out the installation on your own, but only a specialist can plan everything correctly.”

Basic rules to follow:

• in the chain of ventilation ducts, non-residential premises should be the last;
• the exhaust pipe must be higher than the roof ridge;
• the dimensions of the air ducts are calculated using special formulas;
• Air ducts must be carefully warmed and soundproofed, otherwise the wind will howl in the house.

Supply ventilation in a private house: operating principle and diagram

The supply air exchange system includes several components: an air duct, fittings and the supply chamber itself. The dimensions of the device are relatively small, and such ventilation will not spoil the external and internal appearance of the house.

Important aspect! Incoming air flows must have a temperature of at least 18 degrees. Such an air flow will not disturb the comfortable atmosphere in the room and will not cause colds or drafts. In the case of forced air supply, elements must be built into the system to heat it to the required temperature. Previously, such devices were installed, but in modern construction they have been replaced by recuperators. The principle of their operation is the heat exchange between incoming and outgoing flows through a system of filters and plates.

In a private house, the forced ventilation system has its own characteristics. Usually in a country house there are many household premises with special functions. Unlike a city apartment, it contains a boiler room, a basement, a residential attic, a swimming pool or bathhouse and other objects necessary for the owners. These rooms have different humidity and temperatures, and combining them with one air exchange system is not easy.

It is for this reason that special requirements are put forward in the house:

1. It must be powerful enough to serve the entire house.
2. An extensive system must provide for the characteristics of different rooms.
3. The home owner must have the ability to remotely or manually control air exchange.
4. The design must take into account seasonal temperature changes and heat the house in winter and cool in summer.

Related article:

In the article we will consider in detail the types of structures, the principle of operation, how to choose a place for installation, how to properly install the device with your own hands, useful tips and recommendations from specialists.

Principles of exhaust ventilation in a private home and video instructions for installing the hood

Hoods are used to remove exhaust air. It is especially important to install them in rooms where odors actively spread and an unhealthy atmosphere reigns - in the kitchen, in the boiler room, in the bathroom. To forcefully eliminate air masses, you will need a fairly powerful fan and an exhaust hood directed toward the street.

One hood can be installed on a maximum of two heating devices, but representatives of regulatory authorities have the right to require you to install separate chimneys for each device. It is better to do just that, because we are talking about your safety.

Important! If exhaust ventilation through the walls to the street is installed in the boiler room, it must have a sealed air duct so that combustion products do not penetrate into other ducts and rooms. All seams and joints are additionally treated with sealant. In places where the chimney comes into contact with the roofing material, fire-resistant gaskets are installed to prevent fire.

For forced ventilation of the chimney, a fan with a check valve and a fire-resistant asbestos-cement pipe are used. It is acceptable to use metal pipes.

Important! Under no circumstances should plastic pipes be used for exhaust hood in a boiler room or kitchen; they are not heat-resistant and burn easily, releasing toxic fumes.

Nuances of supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house

It is believed that this principle of organizing air exchange is the most productive. Removal of used air masses and injection of new ones occurs simultaneously.

There are two schemes for supply and exhaust ventilation. In the first case, two air ducts are simply installed in the room under the ceiling. Air enters through one hole, and out through another. Both processes occur with the help of fans. In the second case, the supply flow is located at the bottom of the wall. The fan blows in fresh air, and the exhaust air is removed through the air duct by the ceiling naturally. This system works especially effectively in houses with unusually high ceilings.

We focus on each room - what is needed for ventilation?

As already mentioned, in a private house there are many rooms with different purposes. Their features should be taken into account when planning the ventilation system. Let's take a closer look at each case.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen: the main thing is the hood

The kitchen is a hot shop, in which there is always a lot of steam, heat, smoke and odors. If you are preparing a festive dinner for guests or the oven is running at full power, you literally can’t breathe.

Advice! You shouldn’t limit yourself to just a kitchen hood in a private home. It must be combined with a general ventilation system. This will prevent food odors from entering other rooms.

Setting up ventilation in the kitchen is not difficult. Here are some recommendations from practitioners:

1. It is better to select the hood body from aluminum.
2. The filters in the device above the stove must be cleaned at least two to three times a year.
3. It is best to choose a device with adjustable fan speed. This will allow you to use different methods of air purification depending on its pollution.
4. You should periodically check the efficiency of the ventilation duct using a burning match or piece of paper. If the flame draws in or paper sticks to the grill, the ventilation is working properly.
5. For large kitchens with an area of ​​more than 15 square meters, several exhaust ducts are provided.

Video instructions on how to properly install a hood over the stove:

Installation of ventilation in the toilet and bathroom

The atmosphere of the bathroom and toilet is saturated with bacteria and microbes, which, accumulating in a small space, attack not only the human body, but also finishing materials. After taking a bath, the walls remain damp for a long time, and in the absence of a high-quality exhaust hood, the smell in the toilet is unbearable.

To install bathroom ventilation you will need:

• ventilation shaft that goes to the roof. The ventilation duct must be straight and even; only this shape will allow air flow to move unhindered. Its optimal dimensions are from one to two meters;
• external grille with inclined louvres, which protects the channel from atmospheric moisture;
• internal grille with adjustable flap.

For your information! In the bathroom you can install a natural and forced ventilation system. Forced, of course, is more effective.

Important points in installing ventilation in the toilet of a private house:

1. For installation, low-noise devices with a maximum value of 30 decibels are used.
2. The ventilation duct is placed opposite the front door. This ensures maximum draft and proper distribution of fresh air.
3. All duct equipment is placed at a safe distance from heating devices. Ventilation materials cannot withstand temperatures above fifty degrees, unless it is a specialized device for baths and saunas.
4. The power of the ventilation device is selected depending on the intensity of use and the size of the room.
5. In the bathroom, it is justified to install motion and air humidity sensors and timers on the fans.

Advice! Before designing an air exchange system in a bathroom, read the requirements of SNiP 01/41/2003. This document describes all the requirements for ventilation in a bathroom in a private house.

Ventilation in the basement of a private house: important points

All owners of country houses are interested in the question: how to make ventilation in the basement of a private house? A workshop, laundry room, and boiler room can be located in the basement of a country house. In the basement, many housewives store homemade canned goods and vegetables for the winter.

Dampness provokes the development of mold and destruction of the walls of the basement and basement. In order to create a normal atmosphere in the basement, it is necessary to provide vents or vents even at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house. They are located on opposite sides of the base. If there are partitions inside the basement space, there should be vents in them too. The vents are located under the ceiling of the basement, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the ground level and must be equipped with rodent bars, otherwise your winter supplies will not be preserved until serving.

For your information! Another real threat to the basement is an explosion of heating equipment if the boiler room is located in this room. Only high-quality ventilation will prevent the accumulation of dangerous gases in the event of an emergency and prevent the fire from spreading throughout the entire house.

The area of ​​the vents can be easily calculated by dividing the area of ​​the basement by 400. The recommended diameter of one hole is 12 centimeters. And it is worth remembering that the effectiveness of their work will directly depend on the prevailing winds on the site, so they should be positioned accordingly. Among other things, when planning vents, one should take into account the characteristics of groundwater, seasonal temperature changes and the amount of precipitation.

Important! To prevent water from pouring into the vents during a rainstorm, install canopies on them and make an inclined blind area that removes moisture from the foundation.

Important information about boiler room ventilation

The main tasks of ventilation for a gas boiler in a private house:

• regulation of carbon monoxide levels. Even if its percentage exceeds 0.2%, this threatens with serious consequences for the human body, including respiratory arrest;
• preventing the occurrence of reverse draft, in which combustion products enter the room;
• providing the room with the oxygen necessary for breathing. In addition, oxygen is also important for the operation of the boiler, because it is in its presence that combustion processes are possible.

An object with a high level of fire risk must be equipped only with a forced air exchange system. Natural ventilation is not suitable here due to its low efficiency.

In order for the heating device to operate normally, the atmosphere in the room needs to be changed three times per hour. Each chimney is equipped with two openings. The upper one is intended for removing gases, the lower one is for periodic cleaning of soot and soot.

Ask a specialist

“Before installing the ventilation duct, study the boiler data sheet. It specifies all the requirements for chimney installation. Calculate the boiler room ventilation taking into account all the recommendations.”

All chimney elements are made of fire-resistant materials. To increase the efficiency of the device, a coaxial chimney with two air ducts is installed on floor-standing boilers.

Proper organization of air ducts in the attic

Unobstructed air exchange will prevent the formation of condensation under the roof. This will extend its service life and save you from the need for constant repairs. In winter, the roof will not be covered with ice, and in summer, good ventilation will prevent it from overheating from the sun's rays.

To properly organize attic ventilation in a private home, use perforated soffits. They look neat and decorative, and in addition, they do not allow insects to pass through. In addition to these elements, roof aerators and ventilated ridges are used.

Advice! If soft roofing material is used for the covering, small gaps are made in the counter-lattice to allow air to penetrate.

In the most difficult areas of the roof with a complex geometric shape, point aeration devices are used.

Some tips from roofing professionals:

• attic ventilation should be protected from dust; it quickly absorbs moisture and adversely affects the insulation of the roof;
• all attic vents must be equipped with protection against birds, insects and fallen leaves;
• ventilation ducts must have the same size along their entire length. Any restriction will adversely affect the efficiency of the system;
• When the roof length is over 10 meters, it is recommended to use forced ventilation of the space under the roof.

How to make ventilation ducts for sewers and cesspools

Many people believe that the main task of cesspool ventilation in a private house is simply to eliminate unpleasant odors. This is only partly true. Proper air exchange promotes rapid decomposition of waste and reduces pressure in the local sewerage pipeline. Excess methane, a product of organic matter decomposition, can lead to fire.

To remove exhaust gases, high risers are installed in the right place. They are installed not only in the country toilet, but also in an autonomous waste processing system - in septic tanks and closed tanks.

Important! The height of the sewer ventilation riser should exceed the height of the roof by at least 70 centimeters, and the riser itself should not be located near windows.

If it is not possible to install a riser above the roof, use ventilation valves that open as the atmosphere becomes thinner. The ventilation duct for sewerage can be made of plastic; ordinary sewer pipes are suitable for this.

Air exchange in the basement and foundation

We have already talked about how to improve air exchange in the basement. But what about foundation ventilation in a private house without a basement? In fact, in this case it is necessary to ensure normal air exchange. It will protect floor joists from rot and prevent the accumulation of harmful gases and dampness under the floor.

To ventilate the basement floor of a private house, the same vents with protective grilles are used. They are laid at the time of pouring the foundation on opposite sides. For this purpose, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes are used. At the time of pouring, they are filled with sand so that they do not deform and the solution does not get inside.

How to ventilate a pool

A swimming pool is a special room in which there will be high humidity and temperature. These conditions dictate special requirements for ventilation of a swimming pool in a private home. Only properly organized air exchange will prevent the growth of fungus, which will like the climate of this room. If its growth is not stopped, the spores will cause severe allergic reactions among home owners, and all finishing materials will be destroyed literally before our eyes.

For your information! Favorable air temperature in the pool is 28-32 degrees Celsius. Permissible humidity is 64 percent.

There should be no draft in the room with the pool; this is important for a comfortable stay in it. A swimming pool is one of the most difficult areas to design. For this reason, it is better to entrust the development of a ventilation scheme to specialists.

How to make ventilation in a private house: calculations and step-by-step installation

To calculate ventilation in private houses, you will need some basic values. These are the parameters of each room, its purpose and performance standards for natural and forced air exchange.

Ventilation ducts for passive air exchange are located vertically and go from each room to the roof. In a living space, the atmosphere must be completely renewed every hour.

Ask a specialist

“To calculate forced ventilation, you will need to sum up the required air exchange rates for each room, taking into account its area, and based on the resulting amount, select equipment that will cope with this task.”

For example: a house has three rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom and a boiler room. We calculate the productivity for each room in accordance with its purpose and area:

• kitchen -90 cubic meters per hour;
• bathroom – 50 cubic meters per hour;
• boiler room - 70 cubic meters per hour;
• children's room - 40 cubic meters per hour;
• living room - 120 cubic meters per hour;
• bedroom - 60 cubic meters per hour.

Total - 430 cubic meters per hour for the whole house. Therefore, for the successful operation of the ventilation system, an installation capable of handling such a volume of air will be required. You can install one unit or divide the power according to the needs of each room and install the units separately.

An example of how to properly make ventilation in a private house in the following video:

Before deciding how to make a hood in a private house, read the standards SNiP 02/31/2001 and ABOK 2/1/2008. They suggest using it to calculate the air exchange rate. The indicators in these documents differ somewhat, so for independent calculations it is better to choose a larger value.

Features of do-it-yourself ventilation schemes in a private house, depending on the specifics of the building design

1. If the air exchange system is combined into one, the design of the ventilation system in a private house should provide for the movement of air from “clean” rooms to “dirty” ones. That is, from living rooms to the bathroom, boiler room and kitchen.
2. Supply valves are placed in every room where there is no hood.
3. If the building has two or more floors, ventilation ducts are placed according to the basic principles.
4. Natural ventilation through vents is provided for the basement, basement, and foundation.
5. Passive ventilation exhaust ducts are located strictly vertically.
6. For uniform draft, the exhaust channels must be of the same length without narrowing or widening.

To minimize heat loss, ventilation shafts are carefully insulated, especially in places where they open onto the street.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in the house

Some difficulties may arise during the work. The main problem is the weight of the equipment for forced ventilation. Sometimes one craftsman is not able to lift and install the unit. That is why take care in advance of an assistant and a lifting mechanism that will make the task easier. You can assemble the unit step by step. The structural units are assembled on the ground and installed sequentially according to the diagram. Do-it-yourself supply and exhaust ventilation is installed using some special equipment.

In a frame house the task is greatly simplified. Installing fresh air ventilation with your own hands will only require the use of a stepladder, drill and jigsaw.

Features of installation work

If ventilation in a private house passes through brick walls, it is better to install ventilation ducts during the construction process, so as not to have to deal with labor-intensive and expensive drilling later. Use templates made of cardboard or wood during the laying process so that all air ducts have the same cross-section. Lay out the inside of the air duct with solid bricks, carefully sealing all joints.

To bring the ventilation outlet to the roof of a private house, you can use asbestos-cement pipes. They are connected to the ventilation duct in the wall and carefully secured, cementing the entire structure.

Important! Make sure that the cross-section at the joints of the ventilation duct does not change. To do this, remove excess solution and make sure that the inner surface of the air duct is smooth.

And, of course, do not forget about your own safety while working:

• do not work on the roof in icy or rainy weather;
• if the roof slope is more than 20 degrees, use insurance;
• when drilling walls, use a hidden wiring sensor;
• When using a jigsaw or drill, use protective glasses and gloves.

How to choose pipes for ventilation

When choosing pipes, the following basic requirements should be taken into account:

• section size;
• heat resistance;
• tightness;
• compliance with sanitary standards.

Round pipes are an easily available material with good aerodynamics. Most often, ventilation in a private house is made from sewer pipes. Air ducts with a square and rectangular cross-section are more difficult to find, but you can make them yourself from a stainless steel sheet. It is easier to install such pipes for ventilation in private houses in right angles and under the ceiling.

Now about the pipe material. Galvanized steel air ducts are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes. Stainless steel is suitable for hoods in “hot” rooms – boiler rooms and kitchens. A plastic vent hood is the cheapest option and is ideal for wet areas.

Article

Ventilation installation is an important procedure when building a house. The circulation of fresh air in the premises of the house is necessary to prevent the appearance of dampness and mold, which not only harm the structure itself, but also have a detrimental effect on human health.

Types of ventilation in a private house

There are three options for air circulation in the premises of the house:

• Natural type of ventilation. Air moves from the house to the street. Special channels through which air is directed help circulate air masses due to pressure.
• Forced type of ventilation or supply and exhaust system. It is an auxiliary air exhaust system. Produced using a special design for air exchange.
• Mixed type of ventilation. Natural ventilation is used in conjunction with forced ventilation.

Each type of ventilation has both pros and cons. For example, if the area of ​​residence is quite environmentally friendly, then installing a forced system is not necessary; residents of the house already have access to clean air. The filters built into the system will only prevent the aromas of nature from entering the house.

But if the home is located in an area where the environment leaves much to be desired, then air filtration must be present in the room. But installing ventilation requires careful planning and calculation.

How to make ventilation with your own hands

The most ideal option is to consider the issue of ventilation when planning the construction of a house. Supply ventilation must be thought out to the smallest detail.

It is necessary to take into account the basic input data of the object:

• Location of the house;
• Materials from which the house is built;
• Environment.

Only taking into account all of the above can you make a choice in favor of one option or another.

The natural method of ventilation is suitable for the following location features:

• Clean air in the building area;
• The house is built of brick, wood, adobe, foam concrete, ceramic or expanded clay blocks.

If the natural ventilation option is not able to provide normal air circulation, then a mixed type would be a good option. It is also possible to install ventilation in a specific room: kitchen, bathroom, etc.

Basement ventilation helps to ventilate the room and prevent the formation of mold.

Forced type ventilation system

A forced exhaust system is installed in cases where:

• The house is located in an area whose air must be free of pollution;
• During construction, 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels were used, frame type of house.

Under such circumstances, a forced filtration system is simply necessary to provide comfort to residents and extend the life of the building.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house

To properly install ventilation in your home, you need to have some knowledge on this topic.

If the house does not have a natural exhaust hood, or it is not sufficient for a comfortable life for the residents, then an additional ventilation system is necessary.

Condensation on the walls, mold fungi and other negative factors often appear in bathrooms and bathrooms. Installing a wall fan will help eliminate these disadvantages.

Of course, installing this equipment is impossible without material costs, and the noise from the operation of the ventilation unit can bring discomfort to residents.

The fan can be powered by electricity or in conjunction with a lighting system.

Note!

Various types of installation of these systems can be seen in the photo of do-it-yourself ventilation.

The ventilation system must be of high quality so that the supply of fresh air through the ventilation pipes circulates in sufficient quantity for the comfortable existence of residents.

To properly install a ventilation system at home, study all the installation nuances and familiarize yourself with the basic rules and conditions for proper operation of the equipment. Carry out the installation in accordance with the diagram you calculated.

Photo of ventilation of a private house with your own hands

Note!

Due to poorly organized air exchange, the microclimate in the cottage often becomes unfavorable and uncomfortable. As a result, the health of the people living in it deteriorates, and the decoration and furniture suffer from excessive humidity or excessive dry air. And only properly organized ventilation in a private home can prevent these problems.

How to properly equip it and what type of system to choose? We will consider these questions in our article. We will also look at choosing the optimal ventilation scheme for the cottage and ensuring a sufficient level of air exchange in individual rooms of the house.

The creation of ventilation in the cottage is due to the fact that there must be a continuous exchange of air masses in it. Old, used air with a large amount of carbon dioxide must be removed from the premises, replacing it with new air that constantly contains oxygen - from the street.

If you stop this air exchange, the microclimate inside will quickly become far from favorable for human health.

According to standards for living rooms, the optimal atmosphere is a temperature in the region of 20–25 degrees and a relative humidity of 30–60%, depending on the time of year and the readings on the thermometer outside the window

In order to maintain the air exchange parameters established by GOSTs, the ventilation system in the house, made with your own hands or with the involvement of third-party installers, must continuously change the air in the rooms.

For example, for living rooms in a cottage, the air exchange rate per hour is set to “1”. That is, within an hour the entire volume of air in them must be completely replaced.

The purpose of ventilation is to combat the following factors:

• excess heat;
• constantly appearing dust;
• excessive air humidity;
• harmful gases and vapors.

Every person in the house exhales carbon dioxide around the clock. Also in the residential building there are fireplaces, gas and electric stoves, numerous household appliances, that is, there are a lot of sources of heat, moisture, dust and gases in the cottage. And all this must be removed from the premises so that the microclimate in them is suitable for living.

According to the method of air movement, ventilation systems are divided into:

1. With natural cravings.
2. With mechanical urge.

First option involves the movement of air masses due to the existence of a pressure difference outside and inside the ventilated building. Moreover, it can be organized - using adjustable valves, and unorganized - exclusively through windows, doors and vents in the foundation.

In the second case air is forced to move through rooms and ventilation ducts using mechanical devices. This option is energy dependent, but more effective.

Principles of ventilation

Previously, housing was built with wooden windows and doors. Moreover, they did not shine with special tightness. As a result, through the existing cracks there was a constant and natural exchange of dirty indoor and clean outdoor air.

However, now they have been replaced by plastic window and door blocks, which are an order of magnitude more airtight. Therefore, as an option, they install a special device on such windows -.

Option #1 - natural draft system

A non-mechanical ventilation system works due to the formation of natural draft in a vertical pipe.

This is the principle of operation of a classic wood stove or fireplace chimney. In both cases, pressure is created below, pushing the air upward and outward.

The traction force is also affected by the moisture saturation of the air. The drier it is, the heavier it is. Moist air masses inevitably tend to rise to the ceiling and then into the ventilation duct if it goes outside the building.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation lies in its poor controllability. In case of strong wind, formation is possible. In winter, due to the temperature difference, the system works very efficiently, in some situations even to excess, drawing precious heat out of the house.

And in summer its effectiveness drops significantly. Temperatures in the rooms of the cottage and outside in the summer do not differ much, so the draft inevitably decreases.

When there are gusts of wind, the air in the ventilation can flow backward through the ventilation duct back into the rooms. Backdraft formation is rare, but quite possible.

To control the quality of air exchange in such a system, the ventilation ducts in it must be equipped. If necessary, you can cover them to reduce natural traction.

Option #2 - forced inducement system

If the natural ventilation system is not capable of maintaining the proper microclimate in the cottage, then it has to be replaced with supply or exhaust mechanical ventilation.

In this case, air flows are forced to move through the interior spaces using fans.

A combined variation of the system is also possible - with. In it, the volumes of both supply and exhaust are controlled by ventilation units.

In the supply system, clean air is pumped into the house by mechanical devices, and it leaves on its own into the ventilation shaft. In the exhaust, it is drawn out by a fan, and the inflow is carried out through ventilation holes in the walls

In some situations, such a system is additionally installed, which takes heat from the air from the rooms and then releases it to the outside air.

Exhaust fans are installed in each room or one per ventilation shaft. And air supply units in private homes are usually equipped in the form of wall-mounted vents with an axial electric fan inside.

But an option is also possible with a single air blower and ventilation ducts throughout the building.

If supply and exhaust ventilation is done, then it requires laying two separate ventilation ducts - one goes to the exhaust, the second to the supply.

This seriously affects the cost of the system, but allows it to be more precisely regulated and controlled.

Which scheme is better for a cottage?

To decide which and how best to install ventilation in a private home, you need to take into account a lot of factors. The characteristics of all engineering systems and heating devices in the building are important here.

When choosing the appropriate type of ventilation system, you should consider:

• climatic features of the area;
• the presence of sources of unpleasant and harmful impurities in the air near the house;
• purpose of different rooms;
• individual features of the building's architecture;
• the presence of gas stoves or boilers, as well as fireplaces or wood/coal stoves;
• the number of permanent residents in the cottage and much more.

It is recommended to design and install only natural ventilation yourself. To calculate it, simplified methods with averaged indicators are used. Understanding them is not difficult.

For living rooms, the air exchange rate is set at 30 m 3 /hour, for bathrooms and toilets in the range of 25–30 m 3 /hour, and for the kitchen – 70–100 m 3 /hour. Based on this data and the cubic capacity of the rooms, you only need to calculate the width of the ventilation ducts, and then arrange them in the building.

Moreover, it is best to do this at the cottage design stage. Often the best option is a ventilation shaft in the middle of the building with its outlet above the roof ridge.

If a private house is being built on two or three floors and a forced air exchange system is chosen for it, then it is better to entrust its design to a professional. You can then do the installation yourself.

However, if you have no experience in this matter and do not want to encounter problems in the future, then the installation of all ventilation equipment should also be entrusted to a specialist.

Compared to mechanical ventilation, natural ventilation is cheaper, less noisy and does not depend on the availability of power. However, it is more difficult to regulate. Plus, its thrust is highly dependent on external atmospheric factors.

But the absence of electric fans means no problems with breakdowns and no need for their maintenance.

A forced ventilation system in a private house in a combined or only exhaust or supply version is more complex to install and operate. However, it allows you to save on heating and more accurately control the microclimate in the cottage.

When installing any ventilation in a private home, air flows are arranged in such a way that clean street air first flows into the living room, bedrooms, study and library.

To ensure unhindered natural air flow through the cottage, all interior doors must have a clearance of 2–3 cm between the door leaf and the threshold

In the kitchen, in addition to the ventilation hole, it is recommended to additionally install it in the ventilation duct. It will allow you to quickly remove cooking odors, preventing them from spreading to other rooms in the house.

A separate point is the boiler room and kitchen with gas equipment. They must be equipped with a separate channel for air flow directly from the street. Plus, don't forget about.

The easiest and cheapest way to do classic natural ventilation in a private house.

But if the cottage is large in size, with many residential and non-residential rooms, a fireplace and gas-powered equipment, then you will need to equip its mechanical equivalent. This system will be more expensive to install and operate, but the air exchange and microclimate inside will be at the proper level.

Are you comparing ventilation systems for a private home and can’t decide on the best option in your case? Ask your question to our experts in the comments to this article.

Or maybe you still have questions about the nuances of arranging a ventilation system and the rules for choosing equipment? Ask for advice in the comments block - we and experienced visitors to our site will try to help you.

Ventilation is a necessary measure that ensures living comfort and compliance with sanitary standards in the room. Forced ventilation is especially necessary inside wet rooms, as well as in houses with synthetic insulation. What types of ventilation are used in private construction, and what diagrams are needed when creating ventilation in a private house with your own hands?

Ventilation system

Why is a ventilation system necessary, and is it possible to do without its construction? Maybe it’s enough to just ventilate the rooms? Let's figure out why ventilation devices are installed in houses.

The ventilation system ensures air exchange between the street and the indoor living space. This is necessary for timely removal of moisture and supply of oxygen inside the rooms. Removal of moisture and air exchange ensure, firstly, a healthy microclimate, and, secondly, prevent dampness and wetting of the walls. On dry walls, fungus does not develop, which “eats” the wall and turns it into dust over decades. In addition, the presence of fungus is dangerous for pulmonary diseases. 90% of people who live in houses with fungus on the walls often catch colds, suffer from bronchitis, and have allergic reactions.

The construction of ventilation is not always necessary and not everywhere. Sometimes it is enough to periodically ventilate the room or keep it in the “ventilation” mode (when the crack is almost invisible, but air exchange occurs through it). Such measures of natural ventilation are sufficient for living rooms in which food is not prepared, washed, or water is not used.

For household rooms, the construction of an exhaust system is necessary in any case. They cook food, heat water, and wash, which produces steam that must be removed in a timely manner (outside). In the absence of ventilation, steam settles on the walls, condenses into droplets and is absorbed into the wall surface.

Types of ventilation

The main distinguishing feature of ventilation systems is the method of air circulation. Either it moves by gravity, or it is forced to move (for example, by a fan). On this basis, a distinction is made between natural and forced ventilation organization schemes.

In addition, the schemes differ in the following factor - in which part of the system the air movement is organized. Or ventilation works by drawing in (fresh air dilutes the stale air inside the room). Or the system works as an extractor (targetedly removes moisture and odors). According to this principle, ventilation systems are divided into:

• inlet;
• exhaust;
• supply and exhaust.

Now let’s characterize each possible ventilation scheme for your room.

Do-it-yourself natural ventilation in a private house

The most inexpensive system to operate. It costs some money during construction, and does not require any costs during operation. Air movement is ensured by natural factors: the difference in pressure and temperature (between indoors and outdoors).

How to make natural ventilation? To do this, during the construction of a house, an exhaust shaft is constructed, and exhaust pipes (for example, made of asbestos cement) are laid in the walls. Ventilation holes are made in the walls of each room, which are connected to laid pipes and a common exhaust hood.

The shaft rises above the roof of the building. The greater the height of the pipe, the greater the pressure and temperature difference, the better the natural draft.

Please note this: if the ventilation openings of the rooms are connected to each other by internal pipes, then odors may penetrate from one room to another.

Disadvantages of natural circulation:

• difficult to adjust, the suction force cannot be varied;
• almost does not work in summer;
• When there is a strong wind, odors flow back into the house.

Forced ventilation

Forced air exhaust does not have the disadvantages of natural ventilation listed above. It is adjustable (if necessary, the pulling force is increased or decreased) and works at any time of the year, in any weather.

For forced air movement, an electric motor and a fan are required. When its blades rotate, a thrust is created that captures the air flow. Thus, moisture and odors are removed from the room to the outside.

When installing such a ventilation system in a private house with your own hands, the costs are higher than for constructing a natural one. In addition to constructing channels in the walls or shaft, it is necessary to provide a pulling device (motor, fan). In addition, the operation of such a system requires electricity.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation is the supply of fresh air. It can be natural (gaps between the window frame and the glass unit or “ventilation” mode). It can also be forced (the air from outside is sucked inside by a fan, or a general system for the whole house is possible: the air is drawn into one of the pipes and then distributed between the rooms).

Supply ventilation is used to serve living rooms (living room, bedroom, children's room).

Exhaust ventilation: features of basement air exchange

Exhaust ventilation is important where large amounts of moisture and odors are generated. These are household premises (kitchen, bathroom, toilet), as well as the underground, cellar, basement. The important thing here is to draw out the moisture, and not to introduce a new portion of fresh air inside.

Exhaust ventilation can be natural or forced. The forced version works more efficiently than the natural one, which is why a forced exhaust system is often used for arranging cellars and basements.

It is important to know: for effective air exchange it is necessary to have both an exhaust pipe and a supply pipe. If only one pipe is built in a room or house (either supplying or removing air), then air exchange will remain at a low level even with a powerful fan.

What devices do you use for do-it-yourself ventilation of a private house?

What devices can be used to organize the ventilation of your room? Let's look at the most commonly used devices and describe their features:

• Fan with electric motor- it is installed in a forced air exchange system at the inlet (if it is supply ventilation) or at the outlet (if it is exhaust ventilation).
• Check valves- devices that support air movement in only one direction. They help limit the entry of odors through the common system into neighboring rooms. Valves are used in all types of ventilation schemes: supply, exhaust, natural and forced.
• Supply valves- devices that are built into the wall to connect the room with the street. They are a pipe with filters. The valve allows air to pass through, cleans it of dust and debris, and also keeps out cold (heat) and noise.
• Air handling units with heater- they heat the air supplied from the street, thereby increasing electricity consumption.
• Supply/exhaust devices with recuperators - when air moves, they maintain the temperature inside the room (warm in winter, cool in summer).
• Air supply units with heat pumps- combines ventilation with heating of the room. These are various ventilators and breathers. They have two working parts: a pipe for embedding into the wall and an overhead part (located on the inside of the wall, has a built-in heating device).

Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house: device diagrams

A diagram is a drawing or drawing that shows the main elements of the system (pipes, valves, shafts) and their location in the structure. The ventilation scheme is developed when designing a house. To carry it out, special channels or pipes are provided in the walls, as well as a shaft or a common pipe to which these channels fit. Constructing ventilation passages after the construction of the building will be very difficult, and often simply impossible. Therefore, it is necessary to think over a ventilation scheme during design and implement it during construction.

Let's give some variants of schemes (for example). The basis is the floor plan of the house. It indicates the location of exhaust and supply devices, as well as their connection (if planned) into a common input/output system.

Here on the diagrams the exhaust locations and the location of the exhaust pipes are indicated in red. The blue color is where air is taken from the street and moves through pipes to be supplied to living and domestic rooms. The dimensions of the exhaust and supply pipes, the dimensions of the grilles (on the inside of the valves or hoods), and the names of devices and installations are also indicated.

Let's sum it up

1. Ventilation has many advantages. It not only protects the walls from getting wet and mildew, and not only provides the owners of the house with clean air. The hood removes 80% of dust, reduces the amount of cleaning, improves the microclimate, and reduces the frequency of colds and allergies.
2. For high-quality ventilation of rooms, forced ventilation is necessary. It is important that the system has both supply and exhaust passages and pipes.
3. To organize ventilation, modern devices are used that purify the air as it is supplied, and can also warm it up or prevent it from losing heat (coolness, depending on the time of year).

When arranging basement ventilation in a private house, it is more effective to choose an exhaust system.

You can see the process of installing ventilation in the video.

Ventilation and heating are systems responsible for creating a comfortable microclimate inside a living space. But property owners often think about ventilation only in extreme cases. This usually happens when it becomes difficult to stay in a living space, and your health and sleep deteriorate. Then people turn to specialists, who, at the first inspection of the building, indicate poor air exchange.

Why is ventilation needed in a private house?

The process of indoor air exchange is closely related to people’s life activities. Ventilation provides the sanitary and hygienic conditions necessary to keep a person in good shape, maintain his health and well-being. It also performs the following functions:

• removes accumulated volumes of carbon dioxide and fills the room with oxygen;
• maintains air purity by reducing the level of particles hazardous to human health;
• removes unpleasant odors from the room - physiological secretions of the body, perfume aromas, the smell of cosmetics and household chemicals;
• normalizes the overall humidity level in the room.

Constant high humidity is the main cause of the formation of mold and fungi, which are dangerous to human health, and also reduces the service life of electrical appliances and worsens the appearance of finishing materials and furniture.

The list of problems caused by lack of ventilation or its incorrect operation can be continued, but the above is enough to understand the importance of this system. Its type and installation methods are thought out at the design stage of a residential building. If for some reason a private house or cottage is not equipped with a ventilation system, we recommend starting to install it as soon as possible.

The ventilation system is thought out at the design stage of a residential building

Types of ventilation systems

In a private house, the following types of systems are used (a set of air ducts and equipment for cleaning, heating, cooling, transportation, supply and replacement of air):

Types of forced ventilation systems

According to the method of air exchange, forced ventilation is divided into two types:

1. Local (a set of air ducts that provide a flow of fresh air to a specific place). Delivery of clean air and removal of contaminated air occurs only in the room where the channel is installed.
2. General exchange (allows you to create the same conditions in all rooms of a residential building due to a system of combined air ducts connected to each room).

According to purpose, it is classified into the following types:

• supply air - used to supply a volume of air that can be heated or cooled to a certain temperature;
• exhaust - used to remove contaminated air, combustion products, steam;
• - provides simultaneous supply of fresh air and removal of exhaust air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the apartment ensures the simultaneous supply of fresh air and removal of exhaust air

Design and arrangement of supply ventilation

According to the design method, the supply system can be:

• duct (air is delivered to the room through pipes and metal ducts);
• ductless (compact equipment in the form of a valve that is mounted in a hole in the wall).

Set-up and monoblock systems

Duct supply ventilation includes structures of the stacked type (consists of separate equipment that is mounted along the path of the duct) and monoblock type (the parts are placed in a closed housing protected by sound-proofing material).

Stacked supply ventilation consists of various equipment that is attached along the path of the channel

The typesetting installation is usually installed under a suspended ceiling, in the attic or in a special space reserved for laying communications. It allows you to purify the air in rooms of any type and size. The only drawback is the complexity of its design and large dimensions. Supply ventilation of the stacked type consists of the following elements:

1. Air grille. It is mounted on the outside of the building and is necessary to take in fresh air and protect the channel from large debris.

   

   The air grille protects the channel from foreign objects

2. An air valve is a device that controls the volume of air taken in. Prevents the entry of cold air when heating equipment is turned off. According to the method of operation, the valves are divided into mechanical (spring) and automatic with an electric drive (more efficient and reliable, as they are guaranteed to shut off the air supply after the heater is turned off).

   

   An automatic air valve is more reliable than a spring valve

3. The filter protects equipment and ventilated rooms from particles of small debris, dust, bird and animal fluff. According to the degree of purification, they are divided into coarse filters (retains particles larger than 10 microns), fine filters (up to 1 micron) and extra fine filters (up to 0.1 microns).

   

   Fine filter traps particles up to 1 micron in size

4. Heater - electric or water air heater. It is mounted in the ventilation duct and serves to heat cold air to the desired temperature. The electric type is used in low-power systems, and the water type is used in the ventilation of a country house, office or other large premises.

   

   The water heater is used in systems for supply ventilation in large areas

5. The evaporator serves to cool the supply air. Typically used in a combination system. Based on the type of coolant, a distinction is made between freon and water units.
6. The fan is the main element of the system, ensuring a uniform supply of fresh air in the required volume. It is selected taking into account air exchange standards, system power and pressure.
7. The noise suppressor prevents the spread of noise through the ventilation duct from the operation of the fan and other equipment.

   

   To prevent noise from spreading through the ventilation duct, a silencer is added to the system.

8. An air duct is an element of an air network (channel) used to transport air. It is selected taking into account the cross-sectional area, shape and rigidity of the element.
9. Distribution devices are used to manually adjust air flow volumes. They are mounted at the outlet of the air duct on the room side and represent a grille or diffuser.

   

   The diffuser is mounted on the room side at the outlet of the air duct

10. Automation system - ventilation system control device. Consists of a fan speed regulator, temperature control unit, thermostat, hydrostat, etc.

The monoblock installation produces less noise, which makes it possible to install it indoors. All its components are selected and tested at the assembly stage. This eliminates the possibility of power drawdowns and other problems during equipment operation.

This design is a supply valve, inside of which there is an air filter, an air heater and a fan. Its advantages are low cost, low power consumption, and ease of installation. Compact systems vary in performance, device complexity, design and size.

Compact supply ventilation system designed for small areas

There are installations with the ability to connect them to a centralized ventilation system. The following types can be roughly distinguished:

• ventilator - an air supply unit without automatic adjustment of temperature and power, the room is ventilated only in the mode selected by the user;
• aerogiver - a ventilator with the ability to automatically maintain temperature conditions;
• Breezer is a compact device in the form of a wall unit that adapts to changes in the external environment, which is equipped with a step-by-step air purification system and has a digital panel and remote control.

Video: organizing supply and exhaust ventilation in a wooden house

The principle of operation of supply ventilation

Air exchange in the supply ventilation system occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This is a natural process that occurs without the participation of additional equipment. The scheme has both positive and negative aspects. If a residential building is located near a highway or an industrial enterprise, then the air taken from outside will have a pronounced odor and contain a lot of harmful particles. To solve the problem in private buildings, it is recommended to use duct-type forced ventilation. In this case, air will be taken from the street using special equipment.

Supply ventilation with air heating

The principle of operation of the system with an air heater is similar to the scheme described above. Air from outside the room enters the ventilation duct due to natural draft or a fan, undergoes cleaning and enters the heater. Depending on the coolant used, there are two types of air heaters:

• water - consists of heat-transfer tubes and bimetallic grilles, connected to the central water supply or heating equipment through a mixing unit;
• electric - the heating element is a heating element, the maximum temperature of the heated air is no more than 50 °C with an air flow of up to 1.5 m/s.

An electric heater is recommended for use in apartments and private housing with an area of ​​no more than 100 m2. In larger houses, it is more economically feasible to install a water heater, since it will work in conjunction with underfloor heating and central heating.

Supply and exhaust ventilation with a water heater is designed for rooms up to 100 m²

Air heating with forced ventilation

Air heating through ventilation with a heater is one of the modern methods of heating a home. Its peculiarity is that heating, ventilation and air conditioning are connected into a single system. In the cold season, the air is heated in the air duct system, and in the summer it is cooled there to a comfortable temperature. This is a universal and economically feasible approach for small and medium-sized houses.

If a residential building does not have a heated floor or central heating system, an air heating system, coupled with one of the listed options, will allow you to heat the house without special financial costs.

Modern supply ventilation systems are equipped with automation that allows you to regulate air heating to the desired temperature. For example, if residents are away from home for a long time, then the operation of the equipment can be switched to an economical mode. This will allow you to heat the room to 10–12 °C, and after returning to full operation, quickly warm the house to a comfortable temperature of 18–20 °C.

Disadvantages of fresh air ventilation systems

The disadvantages of supply ventilation include:

• energy consumption, which entails financial costs;
• high noise level;
• cost - the price of equipment and installation of ventilation directly depends on its type, design and total power of the system.

It is unlikely that you can install stacked ventilation with a large amount of equipment yourself. Installation is carried out by specially trained personnel. Otherwise, the manufacturer (official dealer) may refuse warranty obligations.

The supply ventilation system has a high noise level

Design and calculation of a supply ventilation system

Before purchasing equipment and components for installing ventilation, their technical parameters are calculated taking into account the size of the room - air capacity, size of the air duct cross-section. At the last stage, the appropriate equipment is selected: fan, heater, etc.

Air performance

Air performance is measured in m³/h and means how much air will pass through the room per unit of time. The calculation is carried out only for premises where residents will be for more than two hours a day. These rooms include the bedroom, children's room and living room.

For corridors, kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, calculations are not carried out. In these rooms, polluted air is removed through exhaust valves.

This value is regulated by SNiP number 41–01–2003: for one person in rooms without natural ventilation, an air flow of at least 60 m³/h must be established. The circulation of incoming air occurs due to single or double air exchange. This term means that within one hour in a ventilated room the air mass will be completely replaced. Taking into account productivity and air exchange, air flow is calculated:

• by the number of residents: L1 = N * LN, where L1 is the ventilation capacity in m³/h, N is the number of residents, LN is the normalized air flow;
• by multiplicity: L2 = n * V, where L2 is the ventilation capacity in m³/h, n is the air multiplicity, V is the volume of the room.

For example, for a living room with an area of ​​10 m2 and a height of 2.3 m for one person, L1 = 60 m³/h, L2 = 46 m³/h and a ventilation capacity of 60 m³/h is required.

When calculating supply ventilation, first determine the air performance of the system

Duct size

After determining the optimal ventilation power, we proceed to the calculation of the distribution channel system, consisting of air ducts, splitters, and valves. At the design stage, you will need to draw up a diagram of the route of the air ducts. It is optimal if several options are compiled. Based on these drawings, the best solution is selected that allows the required volume of air to be supplied to a specific room with a minimum length of the ventilation duct.

The cross-section of the air duct is calculated using the formulas:

• calculated area: S1 = K * 2.778 / V, where K is the air flow through the air ducts in m³/h, V is the air flow speed in m/s, 2.778 is a constant coefficient;
• actual area for round air ducts: S2 = π * D 2 / 400, where π - 3.14, D is the diameter of the air duct;
• actual area for square ducts: S3 = L * H / 100, where L and H are the width and height of the duct, respectively.

For air ducts of standard size, you can use a table with already calculated parameters.

Table: air flow for round and rectangular ducts

Duct parameters			Air flow in m 3 /h at air speed
Diameter of round air duct, mm	Dimensions of rectangular duct, mm	Air duct cross-sectional area, cm 2	2 m/s	3 m/s	4 m/s	5 m/s	6 m/s
	80x90	72	52	78	104	130	156
100	63x125	79	57	85	113	142	170
	63x140	88	63	95	127	159	190
110	90x100	90	65	97	130	162	194
	80x140	112	81	121	161	202	242
125	100x125	125	90	135	180	225	270
	100x140	140	101	151	202	252	302
140	125x125	156	112	169	225	281	337
	90x200	180	130	194	281	324	389
160	100x200	200	144	216	324	360	432
	90x250	225	162	243	360	405	486
180	160x160	256	184	276	369	461	553
	90x315	283	204	306	408	510	612
200	100x315	315	227	340	454	567	680
	100x355	355	256	383	511	639	767
225	160x250	400	288	432	576	720	864
	125x355	443	319	479	639	799	958
250	125x400	500	360	639	720	900	1080
	200x315	630	454	680	907	1134	1361
300	200x355	710	511	767	1022	1278	1533
	160x450	720	518	778	1037	1296	1555
315	250x315	787	567	850	1134	1417	1701
	250x355	887	639	958	1278	1597	1917
350	200x500	1000	720	1080	1440	1800	2160
	250x450	1125	810	1215	1620	2025	2430
400	250x500	1250	900	1350	1800	2250	2700

Air heater power

To calculate power, you need to know the minimum air temperature outside the building in winter and the required air temperature at the outlet of the ventilation duct. Nominally, the comfortable outlet temperature is taken to be 18 °C. The minimum temperature is selected taking into account the region. The heater power is calculated using the formula:

• P = T * L * 0.336 / 1000, where T is the temperature difference at the entrance to the ventilation duct and the outlet from the heater, L is the power of the ventilation system in m³/h, 0.336 is the heat capacity of the air without taking into account its humidity and temperature;
• Taking into account the data from the example above: P = 44 * 120 * 0.336 / 1000, to supply warm air at a temperature of 18 °C to a living room with an area of ​​10 m2, ventilation with an air heater with a capacity of about 1.8 kW will be required.

If the power exceeds 5 kW, then it is advisable to choose water equipment, since water from central/autonomous heating will be used for heating, which will reduce the cost of maintaining the system as a whole.

If the power exceeds 5 kW, then it is advisable to choose water equipment

Do-it-yourself installation of a fresh air ventilation system

The technology for installing supply ventilation depends on its power and design. Installation is best carried out at the stage of interior finishing of the building, since ventilation will consist of a system of ducts and equipment that are located under the ceiling or in the attic. For apartments and small houses, compact supply ventilation in the form of a recuperator ventilator is ideal. The unit operates in supply and exhaust mode, and its installation can be done independently using a simple tool.

A supply ventilator for private housing can be installed independently

For installation work, you will need to prepare a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a screwdriver, a household vacuum cleaner and scissors. Installation technology:

1. Before starting installation, select the location where the ventilator will be installed. It is recommended to install the device at the top or bottom of the wall.

   

   The supply ventilator is installed at the top or bottom of the wall

2. In the selected location, make a hole in the wall using a hammer drill. In this case, an air duct with a cross-section of 150 mm is used, so the hole diameter should not exceed 160 mm.
3. If the installation of the ventilator is carried out at the rough finishing stage, it is more advisable to make hidden wiring. To power the device, a power cable with a core thickness of 1–1.5 mm is sufficient.
4. Insert a plastic air duct into the hole made in the wall and adjust it in length so that the pipe protrudes 1–3 mm from the outside of the room.

   

   For an air duct with a cross-section of 150 mm, the hole diameter should not exceed 160 mm

5. After trimming, insert the air duct into the channel. From the street side, attach the casing from the protective cap to the façade of the building. To do this, drill four holes and hammer in the nails included in the delivery kit.

   

   Installation of the protective cap on the facade of the building is carried out with a protrusion of 1–3 mm

6. From the side of the room, attach a cardboard template to the hole and make markings for mounting the indoor unit.
7. Before attaching the unit, fill the space between the air duct and the channel with foam. After hardening, cut off the excess with a sharp knife flush with the wall.
8. To attach the unit, remove the front panel, which is secured with latches on the sides of the device, and the left protective cover by unscrewing two self-tapping screws.
9. After this, you can proceed to installing the rear part of the indoor unit: run the power cable if hidden wiring was previously done. For open wiring, a special plug is provided at the bottom of the unit.
10. Place the back of the block against the wall according to the pre-applied markings and screw it onto four self-tapping screws. Then connect the cable to the terminals according to the diagram in the instructions. Attach the protective cover to its original place.
11. Install the cartridge into the air duct. To connect it to the board, connect the connector to the contacts on the right side of the block. After this, install the front part of the indoor unit.

    

    After connecting the ventilator cartridge, a protective cover is installed in the air duct

12. Install the sound insulator from the street side: twist the material into a roll along the diameter of the air duct and insert it into the ventilation duct until it stops, and cut off the protruding part taking into account the edge of the duct and install the adjusted sound insulator back into the air duct.
13. Secure the outer ventilation hood and fine-tune the device. To do this, remove the rubber plug that hides the two-position switches. Perform the settings according to the decoding sticker located to the left of the switches.

    

    Installing the outer hood and fine-tuning the ventilator is the final stage of installation

After configuration, the indoor unit is closed and the system’s functionality is checked.

Video: installation of a supply ventilator for private housing

System Maintenance

Maintenance of supply ventilation is carried out at least twice a year:

• in the fall (before the first frost);
• in spring (after the average daily temperature is 3–5 °C).

During this, a complete diagnosis of the system’s performance is carried out - an external inspection of the equipment, checking the voltage at the electrical connection nodes and cleaning the filtration system. The cost of servicing fresh air ventilation for a private home depends on its power. On average, one service costs no more than 4 thousand rubles.

Modern ventilation systems designed for use in the private sector create comfortable living conditions. Before purchasing and installing equipment, consult with specialists. This will help not only save your own money, but also less frequently maintain the system during its operation.