Fireplace structure: what does it consist of and how do the work processes take place? How a fireplace works, we consider all known options for such devices. Fireplace from the inside.

Home improvement involves performing a wide variety of work related to finishing, laying communications, arranging various systems, etc. There are a number of universal solutions that allow you to simultaneously perform several important tasks. And one of them is laying out a fireplace with your own hands. A well-built unit will not only be a source of heat, but also an excellent addition to the interior.

To install a fireplace yourself, you need to use the highest quality materials possible. They must be fireproof, so the process of selecting the necessary materials should be approached with the utmost responsibility.

Fireplaces are made of metal and brick. Metal structures are the easiest to install - you just need to buy the model you like and install it on a prepared base.

However, despite their ease of installation, metal fireplaces cause many inconveniences during further operation, related, first of all, to the safety of the residents of the house. The metal becomes very hot and can cause serious burns and other damage. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to refrain from installing such equipment where small children live.

With intensive use, metal products burn out quite quickly. On average, after a few years such a fireplace becomes unusable. Therefore, it is better to approach the issue thoroughly and lay out a full-fledged brick fireplace.

This design will require the construction of an individual foundation. The laying is carried out using a special solution, which will be discussed below.

Special attention should be paid to the choice of the main building material. Only fireclay bricks are suitable for laying a fireplace. The manufacturing technology of this material is such that, as a result of numerous treatments, its properties become similar to those of natural stone. The brick becomes as resistant to high temperatures and temperature changes as possible.

Before use, the product must be left in water for about three days. This will allow you to remove excess air from the bricks and obtain masonry of the highest possible quality.

What to prepare mortar for laying a fireplace from?

The first stage is choosing clay. To prepare the solution, a small amount of elementary and widely available components is used. The traditional option is an aqueous solution of clay. Special attention must be paid to the choice of the main component of the solution. In nature, this material can have different characteristics, according to which it is divided into normal, lean and fat.

Only normal clay is suitable for preparing masonry mortar. In other cases, it will be necessary to include additional elements, which will not have the best effect on the final financial costs.

The second stage is preparing the clay for work. Take normal clay and soak it for 2-3 days in a large container of water.

The third stage is preparing the mortar for masonry. Usually the solution is mixed using a shovel. If desired, this can be done with your feet, after putting on high rubber shoes. Carefully monitor the condition of the solution and promptly remove various debris when it appears. If you can’t find normal clay, you can take skinny clay and add fatty clay to it. You cannot use fatty and lean clay separately.

The fourth stage is checking the readiness of the clay. Before use, the resulting mass must be tested for strength. To do this, make a couple of small balls. Place one of them in some dry, dark place to dry. Flatten the second one into a flat cake and place it next to the first product. After a couple of days, evaluate the condition of the cake and the ball. If the material is covered with cracks, the solution is too greasy and you need to add some kind of binder, for example, cement. If there are no cracks, the solution is normal or thin.

Skinny clay “in its pure form” is not suitable for use. To deal with this point, try to break a clay ball on a table, floor or other similar surface. If the ball breaks, the solution is thin and you need to add some more fatty clay to it. If the ball does not break, you can begin laying.

A step-by-step guide to laying your own fireplace

The first stage is choosing a place to build a fireplace. First of all, remember that the fireplace should not be placed in close proximity to flammable products. Examine the ceiling and roof of your home. To install a fireplace, you need to choose a place so that the chimney does not pass through beams and crosscuts.

The second stage is preparation for laying the foundation. The fireplace is built on an individual foundation. First, a recess is prepared for pouring concrete. Add 100-150 mm on each side to the dimensions of the future fireplace, and you will get the optimal dimensions of the foundation.

The depth of the hole is selected individually. Traditionally it is 300-500 mm. The specific value is determined in accordance with the characteristics of the soil composition. For example, if there is a lot of sand in the soil, a 30-centimeter depression will be sufficient. Otherwise you'll have to dig a little deeper. First, the bottom of the pit is covered with a small layer of sand, which must be compacted. Afterwards a layer of crushed stone is poured.

The third stage is preparing and pouring the solution. For such a foundation, a simple cement mortar is suitable. Prepare it from part of the cement, the same volume of water and 3 times more sand. Mix the ingredients thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained and pour it into the prepared pit. Level the solution using a trowel. Wait until the cement hardens, lay waterproofing material on top of the pouring (usually roofing felt is used, laid in 2 layers) and begin laying.

The fourth stage is the installation of formwork. At this stage you need to install the formwork. Prepare wooden boards, beams, plates and wedges. Wedges are placed under wooden blocks.

The fifth stage is laying out the supporting parts. Mark the rows along the formwork, taking into account the thickness of future seams. The fireplace will consist of an odd number of rows of masonry. The central brick is usually called the castle brick. It is installed vertically, at a central point.

The sixth stage is the creation of a wedge lintel. This element should be laid on both sides in the direction of the castle brick. Laying is done so that in the central part the lintel can be easily wedged with the center brick. Use a cord to check the seams are correct. Secure it at the junction of the lintel with the side partitions.

The side walls must have sufficient thickness and width, otherwise they simply will not cope with the incoming loads. Where the wedge lintel meets the side partitions, you need to make ties. To create them, steel strips are used. The ends of such strips should be bent upward.

The seventh stage is the installation of arched and beam type lintels. The structure of these elements differs from the design of the wedge lintel. The surfaces of the jumpers in question must form arcs with a certain radius. In the case of beam-type jumpers, their radius should exceed half the distance between the side posts. The jumpers in question are laid out evenly on both sides. Pay attention to the seams - they should be wedge-shaped.

It is important to maintain the correct width of the seams: at the top it should be about 2.4 cm, at the bottom – 0.3 cm.

Use a cord to check the accuracy of the brickwork and joints. Wedge the lintel with the locking brick.

The lintels must be allowed to settle in the formwork. The exposure time will vary. The specific period depends on the ambient temperature and the quality of the solution. For example, in the summer this may take 1-3 weeks. The colder it is, the longer it will take.

The eighth stage is laying out the firebox. At this stage, special attention must be paid to the rear wall of the firebox. If it is planned to install screens in the wall, the laying is done according to the pattern. An edged board is suitable for making patterns.

Select the appropriate shape and dimensions of the template in accordance with the existing drawing of the unit being built.

Be extremely careful when laying a fireplace. Refer to the available drawings. Errors when laying even a single brick will inevitably lead to disruption of the masonry of further rows, and it will not be possible to correct the defects in all situations. Therefore, it is better to immediately do everything as required by the technology.

Finishing of the unit

Think about finishing issues in advance. If desired, the fireplace can not be finished at all, but it is better to decorate the structure with tiles or at least treat it with plaster.

The design made using decorative bricks looks beautiful. However, installing such cladding requires certain skills and experience, so beginners are not recommended to undertake it. Even the slightest mistakes can lead to damage to the decor and simply a waste of money.

Tiles finishing is very beautiful and easy to do. It is not recommended to use tiles for facing the fireplace. Temperature changes will gradually destroy even the highest quality glue. It is recommended to pay attention to this option only if you are ready to periodically carry out repairs and restoration of the finish.

The chimney traditionally has a size of 1.5 x 1 brick. To improve and stabilize traction, it is recommended to use additional devices. For example, with the help of weather vanes and deflectors, the chimney can be protected from precipitation and various types of debris.

Thus, laying out the fireplace yourself is possible. Spend time studying the theoretical part, be patient and follow the recommendations received at each stage. The reward for your efforts will be a reliable, beautiful, efficient and durable fireplace, in front of which you can gather with family, friends or relax alone.

Good luck!

Video - How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands

Fireplaces simultaneously heat and decorate the surrounding space. You can handle laying a brick fireplace on your own. You just need to read the manual and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Remember to have an efficient and reliable chimney. The standard length of the smoke exhaust structure is 4-5 m. In some situations, this figure increases to 700 cm.

In a room with a fireplace, high-quality ventilation must be organized.

The actual construction of the fireplace is carried out on a solid platform that can support the weight of the finished structure.

Determination of basic dimensions

Perform the necessary preliminary calculations. Determine the volume of the room allocated for the construction of the fireplace. The firebox opening should be 1/50 of the room volume you calculated.

The height of the portal should be 2 times the depth of the firebox.

The dimensions and ratios given are very important. If the depth of the firebox is greater than the permissible value, the fireplace will significantly lose heat output. With a smaller firebox size, smoke will occur.

Select the dimensions of the smoke openings taking into account the dimensions of the combustion area. The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney should be 10-15 times smaller than the area of ​​the firebox.

The optimal diameter of round chimneys is 100-150 mm. The length of the smoke exhaust pipe can reach 500 cm or more.

Preparation of materials

Prepare the required quantity (determine in accordance with the planned dimensions and design of the fireplace). Also prepare fireclay bricks for arranging the firebox.

Additionally, prepare the following:

• mixture for bricklaying;
• 12mm glass-magnesium sheet;
• chimney;
• oven tape for mounting accessories;
• metal corners;
• chimney view.

Before starting work, cover everything that needs to be protected from contamination with polyethylene.

Fireplace base

The foundation design will include metal corners. They will additionally increase the strength of the site and protect it from destruction during seasonal changes in the soil.

Dig a hole for arranging the foundation in accordance with the design dimensions.

Fill the bottom of the hole with a sand and gravel mixture. Seal the pillow and place metal corners on it. Double the corner so that the most reliable and durable base is created during the laying process. It is recommended to weld the corners so that they do not move in the future.

In this case, the corners must be mounted in such a way that the masonry elements installed later are located parallel to the interior partition connected to the fireplace (if this design option is chosen).

Place bricks in the corners, fill the entire structure with cement mortar and carefully level it using a plaster trowel.

The thickness of the solution should approximately correspond to the thickness of sour cream. With this consistency, the solution will be able to penetrate into all the cracks of the masonry without leaving the seams.

Ensure the base is horizontal. To eliminate surface unevenness, use the same cement mortar. Leave the structure to dry for a couple of days.

Masonry

Cover the dried foundation with a double layer of roofing material. This will provide the necessary protection for the base.

Prepare mortar for brickwork. Traditionally, fireplaces are laid using a solution based on pre-soaked

Laying the first row is best done using mortar with a small addition of cement (approximately 10-20% of the total mass of the mixture).

Calibrate the bricks in advance, selecting the most suitable sized products for laying each row.

Before starting laying, immerse the bricks in water for a while. This will allow the products to become saturated with moisture. Otherwise, the bricks will take water from the clay mortar, which will lead to a significant deterioration in the quality of the masonry.

Lay out the first row of bricks edgewise. Check that the row is laid out correctly with a square and level. Make sure the opposite sides and diagonals of the base are the same length.

The masonry is carried out in accordance with the order. The following will be a procedure that is relevant for most existing types of fireplaces. For the rest, rely on the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out three continuous rows of the base.

Second step

Lay out 4-5 rows with an ash pan.

Third step

Lay out 6-7 rows with arranging the bottom and brick frame.

Fourth step

Continue laying. Up to the 13th row inclusive, form the walls of the firebox of the heating unit.

Fifth step

Lay out rows 14-19 with a smoke collector.

Sixth step

Lay out 20-25 rows of the fireplace with a chimney arrangement.

Arrange the base and continuous rows of masonry using a trowel or trowel. and the fuel chamber are laid out manually, because At these stages it is very important to control the quality of the solution used.

Apply fireplace mortar to the middle of the bricks. The edges of the elements must remain free.

When laying out each row, adhere to the chosen order. For greater convenience, you can number the products.

Pay special attention to the quality of the masonry of the fuel compartment and smoke exhaust ducts - these elements must be laid out as evenly as possible and as airtight as possible.

Remove excess masonry mortar immediately.

Find out how to do it with step-by-step instructions from our new article.

To form a beautiful curved fireplace arch, perform a gradual overlap of masonry elements. It is important that the overlap size does not exceed 50-60 mm in each row.

The construction of curved lintels is carried out using temporary formwork - circles. To fix such formwork, use supports under the fireplace vault being installed.

Start laying from the brick installed in the center, and then carry out symmetrical laying in both directions.

Periodically check the verticality of the smoke exhaust pipe. Even the slightest deviations from the vertical can lead to smoke in the room.

To lay the chimney, use a mortar with added cement, similar to the mixture used when laying out the fireplace base.

The smoke exhaust pipe must be covered with a layer of fire-resistant insulation to increase fire safety. Insulation is installed where pipes pass through the structure of the house (floors, roofing, etc.). The most commonly used insulation materials are asbestos based.

To give the fireplace a more attractive appearance, finish it. The most commonly used finishing methods are:

Choose a specific finishing option at your discretion. If you like the fireplace without finishing cladding, unstitch the masonry seams using a special tool and thoroughly clean the surface of the structure from excess mortar.

Important: only fire-resistant paints and varnishes can be used to paint the fireplace.

Otherwise, the external one depends solely on your imagination and personal preferences.

Good luck!

Video - How to build a fireplace with your own hands

Probably every owner of a country house is thinking about making a fireplace with his own hands. However, few people bring this idea to the implementation stage, and it’s completely in vain: of course, this task is not so simple, but not only a professional stove maker can do it. Now I will prove it to you.

If you are planning to build a fireplace, then the article I prepared will definitely appeal to you. In it I will talk in some detail about the process of constructing this structure, starting from the selection of materials and ending with decorative finishing techniques.

Fireplace design

A fireplace is a fairly simple heating device that provides room heating due to radiation from burning fuel (wood, coal, less often pellets or briquettes). Unlike a stove, heat transfer here is of secondary importance: although the walls of the fireplace heat up, they give off heat quite quickly.

The design of this device is not complicated:

1. The basis is the firebox - an open chamber in which combustion occurs. The efficiency of the fireplace depends on the configuration of the firebox and its volume, so when calculating the dimensions of the structure, this parameter must be taken into account first.
2. The chimney is responsible for removing combustion products. If you make a fireplace with your own hands “from scratch”, then the chimney is placed directly above the firebox - this design ensures maximum efficiency of the entire system. If the fireplace is being built in a house with an existing chimney, then it can be attached to the side - if the design features are taken into account, the loss of efficiency will be minimal.

Other parts that may be included in the design include:

1. Ash pan with valve.
2. Grate.
3. They cut off the flames.
4. Protective screens or doors made of fire-resistant glass.

The outside of the structure is lined with heat-resistant materials or finished with plaster mixtures that are resistant to temperature influences.

It should be noted that a fireplace in a private home is usually used as an additional source of heating. This is due to the not the highest efficiency of the open design: the efficiency of classic fireplaces rarely exceeds 25 - 30%. On the other hand, let's be honest - we rarely decide to install a fireplace just because we're cold!

Materials and tools

The most popular, and at the same time the easiest to manufacture (if the word “simple” applies to stove masonry) are brick fireplaces. It is about the manufacture of such a design that I will talk about in this section.

The materials we will need are:

1. Ceramic bricks (M150 or better) - from 250 to 500 pieces, depending on the dimensions of the product.
2. Fire-resistant fireclay bricks for lining – about 50 pieces.
3. Metal parts of the fireplace - grate, protective grill, door, etc.

1. Metal corners (50 mm or more).
2. Masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves.
3. Cement mortar for pouring the foundation.
4. Sifted sand, with a grain size from 0.5 to 1.5 mm.
5. Plaster mixture.
6. Cladding material - clinker tiles, natural stone, etc.
7. Fireproof materials for the manufacture of protective screens.
8. Sandwich sectional chimney.

To lay the structure and finish it, we will use the following set of tools:

1. Shovels for digging a pit and mixing the solution.
2. Containers for preparing mortar (for foundations, masonry and plastering).
3. Measuring tools – level, plumb line, tape measure, square.
4. Stove hammer.
5. Master OK.
6. Spatulas.
7. Brushes for finishing seams.
8. Joining.

In general, there is nothing particularly complicated - but working when everything you need is at hand is much more convenient.

Preparatory stage

Selecting a location

When planning to build a brick fireplace with your own hands, you first need to decide where it will stand.

As a rule, fireplaces are installed in living rooms or bedrooms, but the exact location must be chosen according to the following recommendations:

1. The ideal option is to locate it near one of the internal walls (or even install a fireplace built into the wall). This way it will not only give off heat to the room, but also heat the adjacent room.
2. The structure installed in the corner formed by two internal walls is also very effective. But the construction of a fireplace in this case will be somewhat difficult: corner models are more difficult to install than standard ones.

1. It is not advisable to place a fireplace opposite a wall with many windows. Even if your window frames are well fitted, drafts will inevitably occur when burning fuel in the cold season.
2. It goes without saying that there is no point in attaching a fireplace to the outer wall: this way we will mainly heat the street, and temperature changes will not benefit the structure.

Calculation of dimensions

Now we need to determine the main dimensions of the future structure.

The most important thing here is the correct selection of the dimensions of the combustion chamber and chimney.

1. The area of ​​the fireplace opening directly depends on the area of ​​the room in which it will be installed. The optimal ratio of these values ​​is from 1:50 to 1:70. So, for example, for a conventional living room with an area of ​​20 square meters (quite a lot for a country house), you will need a firebox of about 0.4 m2.

Some reference books give a ratio of 1:100, but it can be used, rather, for decorative fireplaces that are lit in rooms with a fairly high temperature, solely to create an atmosphere. So if you have a separate heating boiler or stove, then you can save on material.

1. From the area of ​​the combustion opening we need to move on to height and width. For small fireplaces of a standard configuration, the optimal ratio is 2:3. For our example, a design of 50 – 52 x 75 – 77 cm is suitable.
2. The ratio of firebox depth to height is from 1:2 to 2:3. It is not advisable to deviate from these ratios: if we do less, there will be a lot of smoke; if we do more, the heating efficiency will decrease. For our example, it is worth choosing a firebox from 26 to 35 cm deep.
3. We make the smoke hole approximately 10 times smaller (expansion is allowed from 8 to 12 times) of the area of ​​the combustion hole. In our case, this is approximately 0.04 m2.
4. The optimal chimney height is 4-5 meters or more.

Foundation structure

Now that we know where the fireplace will be located and what dimensions its base will have, we can proceed to laying the foundation. Simply building a structure on the floor is not an option: the weight of even a small model can reach half a ton, and no ceiling can withstand such a load without deformation.

Laying a capital foundation for a fireplace is easiest to plan at the stage of constructing the building itself. If the structure is being built in a house that is already in use, then you will have to dismantle the floor covering and partially dismantle the structures located under the floor.

The work algorithm will be something like this:

1. First, we dig a pit at the site where the structure is installed. The length and width of the recess should be approximately 10–20 cm greater than the base of the fireplace, and the depth should be 0.7–1 m. Under small fireplaces, you can lay a base 0.5 m deep, but no less.

1. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay large stones or broken ceramic bricks on the ground. We tamp the backfill and then pour a layer of concrete approximately 20 cm thick.
2. When the concrete has partially polymerized, we repeat the filling with rubble stone, using a finer fraction. We compact the backfill again and fill in the solution (you can make it thicker).

1. According to this scheme, we lay three or four layers of material. Under the last layer, which should extend to the floor level in the room, we lay waterproofing - a roll of roofing material or a polymer membrane. This material will cut off capillary moisture from the base of the structure.

The last leveling layer can be made not from concrete, but from ceramic bricks with clay/cement mortar. To increase strength, you can also place several steel corners in the base, which will ensure a more even distribution of the load.

The foundation described is the simplest, but at the same time it ensures sufficient stability of the entire structure. By the way, I would not recommend connecting it to the general foundation of the house: these foundations have different shrinkage rates, so it is advisable to provide them with a certain degree of freedom.

Protecting the premises from fire

A brick fireplace gets quite hot during operation; in addition, an open firebox is a potential source of sparks and “firing” coals. That is why in a room built from flammable material or decorated with such materials, it is necessary to install an additional protective circuit.

It includes a separate section of the floor covering in front of the combustion hole and the so-called leaning wall:

1. The area of ​​the floor in front of the fireplace is finished with non-combustible tiles - tiles, porcelain stoneware, clinker or natural stone. I prefer clinker, but the other options are quite good, since the floor still does not heat up much.
2. Before we start building the fireplace, we also protect the wall behind its back wall. For this purpose, a brick wall made of refractory bricks is best suited. The wall should be about 50 cm wider than the fireplace - this will more effectively protect the base from overheating and ignition.

1. Instead of a brick wall, you can make a screen. The fireproof materials used here are either galvanized steel sheet on a backing made of basalt fiber or fire-resistant plasterboard, or a mineralite slab mounted on ceramic bushings and secured with screws. The downside of such screens is their appearance: while a brick wall can still be fitted into it, then sheets of polished metal or fire-resistant composite will clearly stand out.

1. Separately, it is worth mentioning the thermal insulation of the chimney. When installing a fireplace in a wooden house, all areas where the wood will come into contact with a heating surface (be it a brick chimney or a composite pipe made of a sandwich) must be equipped with a fire-retardant circuit. I usually use non-flammable materials based on asbestos or (better) basalt fiber.

Construction method

Fireplace masonry

Before we begin constructing the structure, we study the drawings of fireplaces, which are abundantly presented on the Internet. You can find several examples in this article, but in reality the choice is huge, so finding a suitable model will not be difficult.

Now let's start laying:

1. We begin the work by preparing the solution. Experienced stove makers use clay or cement-clay compositions, but for beginners it is better to spend money and take a ready-made masonry mixture that has fire-resistant properties. We prepare the solution according to all the rules, strictly observing the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
2. Now on the foundation we lay out the first layer of brick, which consists of one or two starting rows. The hearth bricks must lie perfectly flat, so we set them level, strictly controlling not only the plane, but also the diagonals.

Under - first row on a waterproofed base

1. After laying out the hearth, we begin to form the combustion chamber. To reduce costs, it is best to carry out masonry with an “air pocket” - a gap between the inner chamber and the outer cladding. In this case, inside we use quite expensive fireclay bricks, and outside we use ordinary ones, which are cheaper (the price of fireclay is about 65 rubles per piece, the price of solid M150 is 7.50 - 10 rubles per piece).

1. We lay out the bottom of the combustion chamber from fireclay, forming a hole in the center for the ash pan and installing a grate to collect ash. There must be free space under the grate - it must be provided when laying out the hearth rows.
2. Next we lay out the walls of the combustion chamber, as well as the outer walls. I prefer to lay out the firebox first, and then, about two or three rows apart, lift the outer lining.

Two-layer construction: inside - refractory, outside - ordinary brick

When laying the front wall, do not forget that the contact point between ordinary and refractory bricks is a potentially problematic area. To protect the material from destruction when heated, I lay strips of basalt cardboard between the bricks.

1. If the design of the fireplace includes a door, we embed a frame into the front wall, which we also install with a basalt cardboard gasket.

1. When the walls of the firebox and cladding are brought to the required height, we make the ceiling. For covering, it is best to use a thick glass-magnesium sheet. We close the side air gaps with sheet fragments, and then lay the sheet on top of the back of the firebox so that there remains a hole for the chimney (forming a “chimney tooth”). On the other side of the hole we fix a steel corner.

Air pockets can be filled with broken refractory or regular red brick - this material will retain heat, so the room will cool more slowly. A screed up to 50 mm thick is poured over the glass-magnesium covering of the pocket.

1. We begin to lay the casing on top. The easiest way is to make it in steps, each time reducing the area of ​​the structure by 1/4 of a brick. Due to this, we form a cone that provides effective smoke removal.

In the place where the fireplace body narrows, you can lay a thick beam of dried wood - a mantelpiece. However, it can also be made from brick, forming a protrusion along the entire width of the structure.

1. We lift the casing either to the ceiling (connecting it with the hole made in the ceiling) or to the chimney hole built into the wall. We make the upper part of the casing flat.

It is best to dry the fireplace naturally. To do this, we actively ventilate the room for 10 - 14 days, trying to minimize temperature changes. As soon as the condensation on the internal surfaces disappears and the damp spots on the brick disappear, you can begin finishing.

Surface finishing

If we make a fireplace with our own hands, then after laying it it must be finished. When decorative brick is used for the exterior, finishing involves tidying up the seams, but most often fireplaces are either plastered or lined with clinker.

Both technologies are quite labor-intensive, so here I will describe only the basic algorithms.

Let's start with plaster:

1. To level the surfaces we use a fire-resistant plaster composition. It can be prepared from clay, sand and asbestos, but it is better not to experiment, but to buy a ready-made plaster mixture with guaranteed heat resistance.

1. Before applying the plaster, take a nail and deepen the seams between the bricks, removing the mortar to a depth of about 10 mm.
2. Steel plaster mesh with cells from 10 to 25 mm and fix it on the surfaces to be plastered. For fixation, we use only nails that need to be driven into the seams between the bricks - neither metal nor plastic dowels are suitable, since they deform when heated and destroy the masonry.

1. We plaster the surface in two or three layers: first we apply 3-5 mm of mortar, dry it, and only then lay the main mass - in layers of no more than 10 mm.
2. When shallow cracks appear, carefully open them with a knife, moisten them and cover them with fresh solution.

1. After this, the plaster is dried either naturally or with a gentle flow, followed by cooling.

Cladding fireplaces with your own hands is easier than plastering, so beginners are better off choosing this method:

1. As finishing materials we use terracotta, clinker or majolica - special ceramic-based tiles that can withstand high heat without damage.
2. For fastening, we purchase a special heat-resistant glue - its elasticity allows you to compensate for temperature changes when the walls of the fireplace are heated. So the tiles will not fall off.

1. Before facing, we perform rough plastering - it is not necessary to perfectly level the walls, it is important to obtain a surface without protrusions and depressions.
2. Apply the adhesive composition, diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions, with a notched trowel both on the fireplace wall and on the tiles. We press the facing material to the surface and level it.

1. When facing, be sure to put seams between the parts. To control their width, you can use either spacer crosses or (if a wide seam is needed) gypsum board trim.
2. When the glue polymerizes, we rub the seams with a special compound. It will not only give the structure a complete appearance, but will also protect the base of the fireplace from moisture penetrating through the gaps between the tiles.

1. 24 hours after finishing the grouting, we heat the fireplace (very carefully, without fanaticism) and leave it to dry for another two weeks. After this, the structure will be ready for use.

Conclusion

This is not to say that building a fireplace with your own hands is easy. To successfully complete the job, you will need both certain knowledge and skill with accuracy. But in any case, if you follow the recommendations given in the text and video in this article, and in difficult situations seek advice in the comments, then everything will work out!

Modern fireplace

Fireplaces have been used as a source of heat for centuries. Today they are used as a decorative interior item. Most modern models can act as an additional heating device in a country house or cottage.

Installing a fireplace, made in accordance with all the rules of construction with your own hands, can significantly reduce fuel costs and ensure efficient heating of the room.

Examples of improper installation of fireplaces can be easily found in the history of mankind, for example, knights' castles, which were always cold, despite the numerous fireplaces in the hall.

To avoid mistakes when building a fireplace with your own hands, you need to study all the intricacies of this matter.

Types of fireplaces

Unlike their medieval predecessors, modern fireplaces fall into several categories. The criteria for distinguishing them are the following parameters:

Location

• built-in structures.
• wall-mounted
• island.

The materials used are brick, granite, marble or natural stone. For island structures, cast iron, metal or glass are mainly used.

• Open type.
• Closed.

The first option is characterized by the use of an open firebox in a classic design, the second option uses closing the firebox with doors.

Heat transfer method

This indicator is determined by the number of sides that can transfer heat into the room.

Fuel used

• Wood burning fireplaces.
• Gas.
• Electrical.
• Biofireplace.

Types of fireplaces

Design principle

The fireplace structure consists of two main parts - the firebox and the chimney. In addition, there are other components:

• heating device,
• smoke collector,
• valve,
• ash pan,
• grate bars,
• lining,
• forced convection system,
• fire cutter,
• protective doors.

As for the external device, it consists of a cladding and a portal. The portal performs decorative functions, supporting a particular style of the room.

Chimney and draft provision

Chimneys can be divided into several types based on their design.

• Direct view. Because of its simplicity and versatility, it is used in most cases. Its installation is possible only during the construction of the main building, otherwise the ceilings will have to be broken to install a direct chimney.
• Oblique view. This type of chimney is used in a country house that has undergone reconstruction, or indoors when constructing a fireplace. The design of the chimney allows it to be connected to already installed chimney channels or wells for ventilation or hoods.

To achieve traction efficiency, maintaining the height of the structure is very important. Unlike the chimneys of conventional stoves, its height should be greater. In addition, the hydraulic resistance in the structure will need to be reduced to minimum values.

This is achieved by selecting the right design. The most successful option is to use a round pipe; it does not contain corners and has a smooth surface. These qualities avoid the formation of soot, which can delay the movement of smoke. Therefore, the chimney may be square and made of brick, but the chimney is made of pipe.

Fireplace and chimney. Scheme 1

In addition to the height of the chimney, it is necessary to take into account the cross-section of the pipe; it must be proportional to the size of the combustion opening. The optimal match is considered to be a proportion of 1:10 or 1:12.

To reduce heat loss, you need to take care of the materials used and their thickness. Typically refractory or hollow bricks are used. Based on the location of the chimney, the type of masonry is selected, for example, for a structure near the outer wall, 1 brick is used, and for devices located inside the ceilings, the ½ brick construction method is used.

The construction of the chimney must be accompanied by tightness of the seams; inattention to this process can lead to air entering through the cracks of the structure, resulting in a decrease in the draft of the fireplace.

In addition to the listed factors, the pipe head can affect the reduction in draft. To avoid this, you need to purchase the simplest designs, without additional design elements. In addition, when installing it, it is necessary to take into account the width of its walls above the roof level; the optimal width should be at least 1 brick.

To protect the chimney from the influence of climatic conditions, use a special nozzle, which is installed above the head.

Firebox and its structure

To improve the heat-reflecting ability of a fireplace in a private house, use an inclined arrangement of the firebox walls.

This can be achieved by turning the side partitions outward and positioning the rear wall tilted forward. The tilt angle can be formed from 1/3 of the firebox height.

A smoke chamber is installed on top of the combustion hole. To prevent soot and sparks from getting into the room from the combustion passage, a special “pass” is installed between the combustion passage and the smoke chamber. In addition, its functions include protecting the room from smoke.

The start of construction begins with the counting of materials. The easiest way is to build a fireplace with your own hands using bricks. To calculate the size of the combustion chamber, several factors must be taken into account:

• Brick sizes.
• The thickness of the seams.
• Dimensions of the fireplace based on the estimated area.

After this, a serial drawing (order) of all steps is developed. For the convenience of forming an order, use a regular sheet of notebook in a square, since in the process of work a masonry of 1, ½ and ¾ bricks is used.

The laying of the hearth begins from the base part. To improve the external data, this row is laid out by placing bricks on the edge, and from the next row, the laying continues with bricks flat.

Masonry and arrangement of the fireplace

Additional items

In addition to the listed parts, other parts are also involved in the design of the fireplace:

Drawings and diagrams

Building fireplaces with your own hands will require a drawing or diagram of the work. Schemes are performed from four angles:

• side view,
• above,
• directly,
• in the section.

Having a drawing not only simplifies the process of making a chimney with your own hands, but also calculates the amount of necessary materials much faster.

When preparing the drawing, it is necessary to take into account the following details:

• Calculation of the foundation and the possibility of combining it with the finished structure of the house.
• Diagram of openings in the floors and roof structure.
• Calculation of materials for construction and finishing.
• Development of the appearance of the fireplace.
• Calculation of heat transfer.
• Ease of use of the design and explication.
• Fire resistance.
• Safety of use.

Professionals always draw up a drawing with an order, which indicates the location of each brick. When building stove equipment with your own hands, drawings or diagrams must be carried out under the supervision of an experienced stove builder; this will significantly simplify the process and help avoid errors in the design.

Selecting a location

To build a fireplace with your own hands, you will need to decide where this structure will be located. Based on this, fireplaces are divided into four types:

• Wall-mounted.
• Angular.
• Built-in.
• Freestanding.

Typically, a place for a fireplace is selected near the main wall of the house, away from drafts, stairs and corridors. Next to it, it is necessary to provide a recreation area, which you can make with your own hands according to your taste and capabilities.

The base under the fireplace must be made of fire-resistant material.

Video: DIY fireplace stove

Fire has always been at the service of man, and continues to be. But in most devices it is hidden from the human eye: it is located either in the depths of heating boilers or under dishes on the kitchen stove. But man’s instinctive craving for an open fire has never disappeared, which is why there is a constant desire to build a fireplace in one’s home. Those people who know how to do this - master stove makers, in the understanding of many people, have some kind of sacred knowledge that is inaccessible to the common man, although in fact the design of fireplaces is based on the laws of physics and engineering. And, in principle, anyone can comprehend this science - how to lay out a fireplace with your own hands. All you need is great desire and patience.

General information about fireplaces

A fireplace is essentially a stove, only its design is simplified. In most cases, it has an open firebox and its design is less massive, so it accumulates much less heat than a stove. The smoke channel of the fireplace is straight, without smoke circulation, the fuel burns faster than in a stove and a significant part of the heat flies out into the chimney. We can say that the fireplace has more of a decorative and aesthetic function than a heating one, but this in no way detracts from its advantages. An important advantage of a fireplace is the ability to very quickly heat a room with radiant heat from a burning flame. A large volume of oxygen burning in the firebox facilitates the supply of fresh air, provided that the supply ventilation is properly organized. Rooms where the fireplace is lit periodically will always be dry and free of musty odors, even in the absence of a main heating system.

Are you looking for how to make a decorative fireplace with your own hands?

We invite you to read the step-by-step guide on how to... In addition, this material shows in detail the process of finishing a fireplace with stucco and the stage of connecting the LED strip!

Modern fireplaces with a closed firebox can already be called a mini-oven, since they have convection heating of the air. The efficiency of such fireplaces is much higher, they burn fuel more completely and efficiently, they can heat not only one room, but even a small house. If the owners want to enjoy contemplating an open fire, the door can be opened, and in some models even raised.

Open fireplace design

Before you start arranging a fireplace, it will be useful to find out what structural elements it consists of and their purpose. A cross-sectional diagram of the fireplace is shown in the figure.

• Firebox or the firebox (3) of the fireplace - its main part, which is a niche made of fireproof material - fireclay bricks. This is where fuel combustion occurs.
• Portal(5) – frames the firebox and performs a decorative function.
• Under(2) – the lower part of the firebox is also made of fire-resistant material.
• Grate(it is not visible on the diagram) serves to maintain fuel and supply air from below.
• Ash pan(1) is designed to collect ash and is most often made in the form of a metal box.
• Pre-furnace platform(12) limits sparks from the firebox from reaching the floor and is an element of fireplace decor.
• The rear inclined part of the firebox (4) is also called mirror. Its task is to reflect heat from the firebox into the room. Mirror shapes smoke tooth(6), which is also called jib or smoke cornice. This important part of the fireplace prevents the mixing of air flows, the loss of soot and the penetration of smoke into the room.
• Hilo(7) or smoke collector, collects combustion products from the firebox and transfers them through smoke neck(9) and retraction(10) in chimney (11).
• Gate valve(8) or gate blocks the flow of cold air into the room from the street when the fireplace is not working, and also regulates draft.