Caring for Cambria orchids at home. Hybrid orchid Cambria: description of the variety and care at home

Cambria is an orchid that usually appears in those gardeners who have some experience in caring for plants of this family. As a rule, it is acquired in the process of caring for phalaenopsis and dendrobiums, which are considered the most unpretentious representatives of orchids. And one day, when you get tired of fiddling with them, the gardener’s gaze falls on related plants - miltonias, oncidiums, vandas and others.

The most popular among more or less advanced hobbyists is the one that is considered quite simple to care for, although at first glance it seems more demanding than phalaenopsis. In fact, this is not entirely true, so even those who cannot survive the simplest plants can turn their attention to this flower.

Cambria is an orchid resulting from crossing several species at once: oncidiums, miltonias, odontoglossums. It is for this reason that this type of hybrids is distinguished by a huge variety of flower shapes and their colors, but the general undemandingness to living conditions remains unchanged. The Cambria orchid, photos of which testify to its extraordinary beauty, should perhaps be in the collection of any enthusiastic gardener, especially given the ease of care.

Like most orchids, it does not tolerate direct sunlight - only diffused light. In summer, an eastern or northern window is perfect for her; in autumn and winter, it is better to move the pot to a brighter place. Darkening of the leaves may be a sign of insufficient light, while reddening of young shoots indicates its excess. It is believed that Cambria is an orchid that is not too demanding when it comes to watering and air humidity. Perhaps, in this sense, it can be even more unpretentious than a simple phalaenopsis. Nevertheless, most gardeners believe that the orchid feels much better with regular spraying, especially if its temperature exceeds 20-22 degrees.

It is better to water by immersion; under no circumstances should excess moisture be allowed; the substrate should dry well. That is, rapid growth, cambria must receive a sufficient amount of nitrogen when watering, and during the formation of buds and opening of flowers, you need to feed the plant with a special fertilizer for orchids
predominance of phosphorus, but the concentration of any fertilizing should be 2-3 times lower than recommended. When the bulbs ripen, you need to increase watering to 2 times a week; the rest of the time, once every 7-10 days is enough.

Replanting is done approximately once every 3 years; a special substrate is needed, for example, a mixture of pine bark and sphagnum. Since this plant is a sympoidal plant, during transplantation the bush can be divided so that each part has 3-4 fairly mature and large bulbs. Cambria does not have a pronounced rest period. The flowering time is quite long - up to 8 weeks it will delight the owner with beautiful flowers, which are often also fragrant. Cambria is an orchid that will probably suit almost any gardener, so it will be a wonderful gift for hobbyists.

A unique, delightful creation of human hands - the Cambria orchid - amazes with the diversity of its appearance. Rich colors of scarlet, crimson, orange-apricot and brown with ornate speckled and striped patterns adorn the royally luxurious marble petals.

Over the last century, breeders and hybridizers have worked to create the best representatives of amazing orchids. Cambria orchid is not a natural plant, but a trade name for a whole group of hybrid varieties bred with the participation of various species from the genera Cochlioda, Oncidium, Odontoglossum, Miltonia, Odontioda, Wilsonara and some others. Most of them grow in the cool, humid and warmer tropical forests of South America on cushions of moss covering the trunks and branches of trees.

The first hybrid was obtained in 1911 by Mr. Charles Woolsteke from crossing Odontoglossum crispum x Miltonia x Cochlioda noetzliana and named Weilstekeara in his honor. About 10 years later the legendary Vuylstekeara Cambria Plush appeared with flowers that looked like a dressed up young lady. Since then, many intergeneric hybrids, unsurpassed in their beauty, have been created, which have received the common commercial name Cambria orchid.

The root system of Cambria is well developed. The roots are numerous, white, and usually entwine a lump of substrate near the walls of the vessel. The plant has oval pseudobulbs up to 8 cm high, from each grows 2-3 dark emerald leaves half a meter in length. A long peduncle develops from the base of the pseudobulbs and usually bears a heavy inflorescence of 3–7 large flowers with a circumference of up to 10 cm.

After flowering, the orchid forms a pseudobulb, which in the next season forms a flowering stem. The formation of buds does not depend on the time of year and occurs 9–10 months after the previous flowering. The plant does not have a clearly defined dormant period, but after flowering the orchid must rest for some time.

Planting Cumbria

It is best to transplant Cambria after spring flowering, starting in May. The signal to move to a new flower container can be the roots emerging from the substrate and directed upward, as well as new shoots crawling out of the pot.

Cambrias are grown in ceramic or plastic pots, not necessarily transparent, but with a sufficient number of holes in the bottom and walls to ensure sufficient aeration of the roots and drainage of irrigation water. During replanting, select a pot with a diameter 5 cm larger than the previous one, and if the bush is to be divided during replanting, then the same as the old one. The new container should be designed to accommodate 2-3 more new growths in the future.

The substrate for growing Cambria consists of medium-fine pine bark and charcoal; a good layer of expanded clay drainage is required at the bottom of the flower container. The plant in the new pot is positioned so that the newest shoot is in the center, and the old pseudobulb is near the wall of the vessel. The container is carefully filled with fresh substrate, slowly pushing pieces of bark between the roots.

The transplanted plant is left alone for one day so that all small wounds on the roots heal and dry. The next day, the orchid is soldered and placed on the windowsill of a shaded window until the roots are firmly established in the new substrate, then the pot with the plant is moved to a permanent place where the plant is kept at home.

Conditions of accommodation in the house

A suitable place for Cambria in an apartment is the windowsill of a north-eastern or eastern, western window; on the southern side, the plant gets sunburn on its leaf blades. Cambria loves a lot of light, but it is better to protect it from the scorching rays of the sun. If flowering occurs in the winter months, the orchid will need lighting with special lamps.
The plant does not tolerate summer heat, drafts and sudden temperature changes. It needs an even, moderately warm microclimate from 16 degrees in winter (and no lower) to 25 degrees in summer (and no more).

Cambria orchid: home care

The plant does not tolerate waterlogging, so watering must be balanced so that the substrate dries out completely between successive waterings, but does not remain so for several days. It is rational to water by immersing it in soft warm water for 20–25 minutes, then it is advisable to wait until the water has completely drained through the drainage holes, and only then put the plant in its place. During watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not get inside the axils of the leaves, where it can cause rotting of their tissues.

Cambria orchid needs high air humidity only during periods of high air temperatures. When keeping the plant in rooms with a thermometer reading of 18 degrees Celsius or more, it is sufficient to maintain the ambient humidity within 40–50%. If there is a lack of moisture in the air, it is increased with the help of humidifiers or vessels with water placed nearby. Spray the plant very carefully, especially the flowering one, trying to prevent drops of water from falling on the petals and leaves.

During the growing season, when a new shoot is formed, the cambria is fed once a month with special fertilizers for orchids, reducing the concentration by half or three times as indicated on the package. When flowering begins, fertilizing is stopped. They are renewed after some time has passed after the flowers have withered, when the first signs of new growth appear.

Reproduction methods

Cambria orchid is propagated by dividing the bush into several parts or at least in half. It is important to comply with the condition - on each division there should be at least 3, and preferably 4, shoots with pseudobulbs and one axial shoot.

The plant is taken out of the pot and it is discovered that the substrate is braided from the outside with roots that have densely occupied the space near the walls of the vessel. It is almost impossible to separate the roots with your hands; orchid experts advise simply cutting them into two parts with disinfected scissors, and then tearing out the pieces of the old substrate.

The sections are sprinkled with activated charcoal or charcoal powder and the sections are planted in separate containers, following the general rules for planting Cambria orchids. The new young shoot should point to the center of the pot, and the old pseudobulbs should be located at one of the walls.
The seed propagation method is not used for Cambria - hybrids grown from seeds will be completely different from their parents. However, this is successfully used in breeding to develop new varieties.

Diseases and pests of Cumbria

Dry yellow leaf tips are observed in orchids that are not regularly watered or in a plant placed in a room with very low air humidity. Dry areas are cut with scissors above the yellowing area in a V shape.

A completely yellowed leaf with black dots randomly scattered throughout the leaf blade indicates the presence of a fungal infection. In this case, the affected leaf is completely removed, and the entire plant is treated with one of the systemic fungicides.

The stripes of the top layer of leaf tissue and the remaining thin, parchment-like skin, which dries later, will tell the gardener that the “tenant” in the pot along with the orchid came from the greenhouse - snails. They are collected manually by placing special baits on the surface of the substrate. Many gardeners believe that in this case it is better to replant the plant in order to thoroughly inspect the roots and wash them, freeing them from unwanted guests.

Dry air favors the appearance of scale insects on orchid leaves, especially on their undersides. Mealybugs like to hide between leaves and pseudobulbs. For pests, cambria is treated with a systemic insecticide, and after 3-4 weeks, spraying is repeated.

The best varieties

Plush – with scarlet petals and sepals. The lip is large, scarlet to the middle, its lower part is snow-white with miniature purple polka dots. Several bright yellow, interrupted thin stripes stretch from the throat along the lip.

Nelly Isler - the petals are crimson, with small light spots scattered at their very tops. The lip is of impressive size, its dimensions exceed the sepals and petals, and is spotted up to the middle. At the throat itself there is a spot in the shape of a square, crossed diagonally by lines of the color of the main background.

Bartley Schwarz - snow-white lip, two-lobed, petals of a deep red hue. The flower exudes a very delicate and pleasant aroma.

Eurostar - star-shaped flowers with long, pointed petals of a dull crimson color. The leaves are thin and flexible and break easily.

Flower growers' fascination with beautiful orchids has led to the creation of many complex hybrids. Cumbria is one such wonder. The owner of magnificent flowers of various shapes and shades is very unpretentious. Following simple rules for caring for a plant at home will allow you to avoid common mistakes, so you can admire the beauty of Cumbria for a long time.

Origin and description of the Cumbrian orchid

The Cambria orchid is not a single species of plant. The name is rather a commercial one, uniting hybrid species, in the creation of which three or more genera of the oncidium group were used. Nevertheless, each flower has its own name - for example, the name of the scientist who created this or that hybrid.

A common feature of hybrids is the sympodial (shoot) type of growth. Cambria has oval, round or ovoid pseudobulbs. They are also called false bulbs. Their main task is to accumulate nutrients to help the plant survive extreme conditions. The more false bulbs, the healthier the Cambria and the more luxuriant the flowering.

Each pseudobulb produces up to 3 leaves. They are painted dark green, narrow and long in shape - up to 50 cm. The central vein is clearly defined.

Unlike other orchids, which have a powerful root system that can hold the plant on the carrier, Cambria's roots are very thin and easily vulnerable.

Cambria is capable of throwing out several flower stalks at the same time. There are dozens of buds on one flower arrow. They are not all revealed at once. The sizes of flowers, varied in shape, range from 5 to 10 cm. They can be white, yellow, burgundy, cream, pink. As a rule, Cumbrias bloom several times a year.

Such plants are not found in nature. They were created exclusively for indoor floriculture. Cumbrias are unpretentious and adapt well to environmental conditions. These are perhaps the most undemanding representatives of the Orchid family. Therefore, for beginning gardeners who are in love with orchids, Cambria is an ideal option.

When buying Cambria in a store, choose a specimen with several pseudobulbs. A plant with one false bulb is usually not viable.

Hybrid species

1. Colmanara is a hybrid of Odontoglossum and Oncidium. A long vertical peduncle, appearing at the moment of ripening of a young false bulb, is crowned with 5 or 20 flowers. The colors are dominated by yellow and red. Flowering duration is up to 8 weeks. Popular varieties: Wildcat Bobcat, Wildcat.
2. Vuilstekeara is a hybrid bred by crossing Odontoglossum, Cochlyodes and Miltonia. On long and graceful peduncles there are from 5 to 20 flowers, mainly in pink, yellow or red. The flowering period is from late winter to early summer. Duration - up to 2 months. The species is represented by numerous varieties, including: Linda Isler “Red”, Yokara Perfection, Melissa Brianne “Kai, s Choice”.
3. Burrageara is a complex hydride, the parent forms of which were Miltonia, Cochlioda, Odontoglossum and. It is distinguished by its sophistication: several flowers are collected in inflorescences. The coloration is dominated by combinations of yellow and red tones. Flowering occurs in winter. The smell of such an orchid is reminiscent of a rose. Varieties: Stefan Isler, Stefan Isler “Living Fire”, Nellie Isler “Swiss Beauty”.
4. Beallara is a complex hybrid obtained by crossing 4 species: Brassia, Miltonia, Odontoglossum and Cochlioda. The flowering period falls in the middle - end of summer. The graceful flowers are cream-colored with dark spots or white-pink-purple shades. Of the large number of varieties, the following stand out: Peggy Ruth Carpenter “Morning Joy”, Marfitch Howard, s Dream, Tahoma Glacier “Ethan”, Patricia Mc Cully.
5. Degarmoara is an intergeneric hybrid of Miltonia, Odontoglossum and Brassia. It has flowers of various shapes and colors up to 10 cm in size. Some of these orchids have a pleasant aroma. The plant blooms all year round. Varieties: Flying High, Winter Wonderland “White Fairy”.

Photo gallery: Flower varieties

Wildcat Bobcat - one of the most popular varieties of the species Colmanara Vuilstekeara blooms from winter to summer Burrageara is characterized by yellow and red shades of petals Beallara - a complex hybrid created from four species Winter Wonderland "White Fairy" - an exquisite variety of the Degarmoara species

Table: Conditions for maintaining a house

Season	Lighting	Humidity	Temperature
Spring	Even on the north side, Cumbria will do well. To bloom more luxuriantly, Cambria needs diffused but bright light, so the optimal place for it would be a windowsill on the western or eastern side. Perfect A window facing south, which is illuminated more than others, is also suitable. In spring and summer, the plant should be hidden behind a curtain from the bright sun. This is especially true for hybrids with thin and soft leaves.	Cumbria is not so demanding on the level of air humidity. 25–30% is a sufficient indicator. But during the growth period of young pseudobulbs, the humidity in the room should be raised to 40–50%. If the temperature in the room with the plant does not exceed 18°C, then you should not additionally moisten the flower. In the summer heat and with central heating running, you can spray the air around Cumbria or place the pot on a flat plate with moistened filling. You need to spray the flower very carefully and only with a fine spray. Do not allow water to flow down the orchid - this can lead to rotting. Placing the plant under the shower is strictly prohibited!	Cumbria – lover of moderates temperatures Hybrids feel feels good at 15–25°C. At very high temperatures Cambria may stop growing. That's why preference should be given cooler room than warm. Such conditions the plant is better develops.
Summer
Autumn	During the cold season, Cumbria needs to be provided with additional lighting.		Winter temperature range is from 16 to 18°C.
Winter

In summer, the flower feels great in the fresh air. In the garden or on the balcony, a secluded place, protected from wind, rain and direct sunlight, is suitable for Cambria. In indoor conditions, the flower requires good air circulation, but is afraid of drafts.

Bright diffused light is essential for Cumbria

Planting and replanting

A new pot is needed to plant the plant. It doesn’t have to be big; it’s enough to choose a container that’s a little larger than the previous one. The root system of Cambria must fill almost the entire volume of the container so that there is no threat of waterlogging of the soil mixture.

The preferred material is plastic. It is not necessary to buy transparent pots; this does not matter for Cambria (but if the grower is inexperienced, then a transparent container will help control the condition of the roots). What really matters is the drainage holes. They must be big. You also need to make holes on the walls of the pot to improve ventilation of the root system.

Substrate for Cambria is usually purchased at a specialized store, where there is a large selection of mixtures for Orchids. You can prepare the material yourself by mixing medium-fraction pine bark (this is the main component), sphagnum moss and charcoal. Peat is not very suitable, it is too moisture-intensive. Although, if the room is very hot and the soil dries out quickly, you can add a little to the main soil to retain moisture. And if the situation is the opposite, then pieces of pumice will help, as they perfectly absorb excess moisture.

The main condition is that the substrate must allow moisture and air to pass through well.

Many gardeners do not use drainage when planting, lining the bottom of the pot with large pieces of bark. But it still won’t hurt, and will also give the pot greater stability.

The Cambria orchid does not like transplanting. Typically, it is subjected to such procedures once every 3-4 years, when the roots have completely mastered the space of the pot, and the pseudobulbs have grown so large that they do not fit within the old container. The plant is replanted immediately after flowering, when new pseudobulbs are just beginning to grow roots.

There are situations in which you should not wait for the plant to bloom. Urgent replanting is carried out when problems arise with the roots in cases of frequent waterlogging of the soil mixture. In addition, it is advisable to immediately relocate the purchased plant. This way you can assess the condition of the root system and rid Cambria of transport soil that is not suitable for it.

Step by step transplant process:

1. Carefully remove the Cambria from the pot. If the plant has already been transplanted, then we try not to disturb the root system, that is, we use the transshipment method. If the orchid is in a store-bought substrate, then it needs to be removed as much as possible. Try especially carefully to examine the very middle of the root ball. As a rule, peat cups, lumps of moss or even pieces of foam rubber remain there.
2. Be sure to remove dry and dead pseudobulbs. If the roots are damaged, cut off the rotten, hollow or broken areas, and sprinkle the wounds with crushed coal. Leave for several hours to dry.
3. Pour drainage into a new pot, and place the prepared mixture for orchids on top of it.
4. We place the Cambria in a new container, carefully place the roots and add the remaining substrate, trying to place the larger particles down and the smaller ones on top. Sometimes you can tap your fingers on the sides of the pot so that the pieces of bark are more evenly distributed between the roots. Do not bury pseudobulbs, they are supposed to remain on the surface!
5. The transplanted Cambria should hold well in the ground. To prevent it from wobbling, install supports in the form of sticks and tie the plant to them

After replanting, do not water the plant for 5–6 days, during which time the root system will recover and possible wounds will heal.

The Cumbria root system is very delicate, so you need to be careful when replanting.

Video: transplant process

Home care secrets

How to water the soil correctly?

Cambrias are not as moisture-loving as other orchids. The plant should not be over-watered. The refined root system of Cambria is extremely sensitive to stagnant water and can die very quickly. Therefore, water the flower only after the substrate has dried, especially in the middle of the pot. But this does not mean that you can forget about Cumbria for a long time. If the pseudobulbs begin to wrinkle, it means the plant has used all its accumulated reserves and needs urgent watering. The mode is:

• in summer - every 6–8 days. When it is very hot, the period between moisturizing is reduced;
• in winter, if the heating system is not yet working, and it is already cool and damp outside - once every 10–14 days.

The ideal watering method for Cambria is to submerge the pot 1/3 in water. In summer, the plant is saturated with moisture in 20 minutes; in winter, this value is reduced to 5 minutes. Use only clean, well-settled or filtered water for irrigation or immersion.

Is it worth adding fertilizer to the substrate?

Cambria should be fed very carefully due to its sensitive root system. Fertilizers are usually used for orchids, but they are diluted with more water than required. Excessive amounts may burn the plant's roots. The fertilizing period lasts from March to September, the optimal frequency is 1–2 times a month.

Some gardeners prefer foliar feeding, using a very weak fertilizer concentrate.

Feeding stops when flowering begins. The useful substances accumulated by the pseudobulb will be quite enough for this period.

What to do with an orchid when it blooms or has faded?

Flowers appear throughout the year in Cumbria. If the flowering period falls in the autumn-winter season, be sure to use additional lighting so that the flower stalk does not drop its buds. Peduncles (one, sometimes two) develop on new pseudobulbs every 9 months, usually without requiring any stimulation. The duration of this phenomenon is 5–7 weeks.

Beginning flower growers sometimes complain that Cambria does not bloom for a long time. There may be several reasons:

• insufficient lighting, especially in winter;
• very high room temperature;
• waterlogging of the substrate.

You can make Cambria bloom in the following way. When a new pseudobulb begins to form, sharply reduce the frequency of watering. When the false bulb has formed and matured, stop watering altogether, allowing for a dry period. The pseudobulb will begin to wrinkle, then you will need to water Cambria a little, and then dry it thoroughly again. Keep the plant in this mode until a new peduncle appears. This usually happens within 2–4 weeks. Then the watering mode resumes.

After the end of the Cambria flowering period, the dry peduncle is completely removed.

There is no clearly defined rest period in Cumbria. But still, after flowering, you need to give the plant a little rest so that it can gain strength before the new one. To do this, certain conditions are created for the flower: they are kept at low temperatures (15–16°C), watered to a minimum, and feeding is stopped altogether. As a rule, the period when the plant rests occurs in the cold months.

Video: Cambria during the dormant period

Common Problems

Table: Why does a flower grow like a ladder, leaves turn yellow, and so on - mistakes of flower growers

Signs	Cause	Elimination
Cambria began to wince pseudobulbs, possibly drying out of roots.	Insufficient watering.	If the pseudobulbs are very shriveled, moisten the plant using the dipping method. Leave Cambria in a container of water for 1 hour. Pseudobulb turgor should recover in 2–3 days. Make sure that water does not get on the plant, blot the moisture in the axils between the leaves.
Cumbria began to grow ladder	Not enough space in the pot.	The plant needs replanting.
appear on the leaves wet spots.	Frostbite.	If the plant comes into contact with the glass in winter, move it a little further. When ventilating, remove the plant from drafts.
Pseudobulb cracks.	A combination of cold air poor lighting and frequent pouring the substrate.	Raise the room temperature, move the plant to a light source, water correctly.
The leaves are turning white pseudobulbs thicken and change color.	Excess fertilizer.	Choose the right fertilizers. Fertilize very carefully, diluting the indicated dose in water more than the prescribed norm.
The leaves began to turn yellow.	Excess light.	On sunny days, Cambria needs to be shaded.
Young leaves growing accordion	Insufficient humidity air.	Increase the air humidity around the plant with available ways.
Anthracnose - fungal a disease in which leaves and pseudobulbs turn brown spots. Over time they form black concave areas with yellowish raid.	The plant was exposed for a long time overmoistening.	Release Cambria from the old substrate. Rinse the roots in water, remove everything rotten to healthy tissue. Sprinkle the wounds with crushed coal or cinnamon. Leave to dry. For significant lesions, treat with Mikosan. Plant in the middle fraction bark. Do not bury pseudobulbs. Do not water for three weeks. Be sure to place Cambria in a bright room. If the plant is too damaged, unfortunately, it cannot be saved.
Pseudobulbs become watery.

Photo gallery: signs of improper plant care

The pseudobulb begins to wrinkle during prolonged drought. When Cambria begins to grow like a ladder, this indicates that it is cramped in the pot. Cracking of the pseudobulb occurs due to too low air temperatures and during prolonged flooding. When the pseudobulb is overused with fertilizers, the pseudobulb thickens and changes color. When the air is excessively dry, the leaves Cambria grows like an accordion. When the soil is waterlogged, the pseudobulb becomes watery. Anthracnose may occur This is what a plant looks like when exposed to cold

Table: pests and diseases attacking the plant

Pests	Symptoms	Control measures	Prevention
	The first sign of a mite is a light web on the back of the leaf. Small ones appear on the leaves spots in places where mites drink intercellular juice. Then the leaves wither and fall off.	Apply Fitoverm solution (up to 4 times at weekly intervals). The spray solution is prepared according to the instructions. Actellik is also used to control pests. If the damage is severe, the substrate is treated with an insecticide. The plant is transplanted into fresh soil mixture.	Maintains required air humidity. At the first signs of damage, Cambria leaves are wiped with a damp cloth soaked in a weak soap solution.
	Convex brown tubercles in the axils of the leaves are scale insects. The pest feeds on the sap of the plant, causing the leaves to turn yellow and dry out.		The scale is removed manually with a cotton swab soaked in a soapy solution. After a few days, the procedure is repeated until the pest completely disappears.
	Small insects very quickly create entire colonies on the affected plant. Because of them activity, the leaves quickly die off.		Wash the leaves with soapy water or spray with citrus water: pour a handful of peels with a glass of boiling water and leave for three days, filter, apply every 4–5 hours. Place soaked citrus peels on the soil surface. After spraying, blot off the water accumulated in the axils of the leaves.

Photo gallery: How to recognize pests?

A light cobweb is the first sign of the appearance of a mite. A leaf affected by scale insects. A colony of aphids on a plant.

Reanimation of an orchid without roots

Cambria has great potential due to the nutrients accumulated by the pseudobulbs. Therefore, the more young false bulbs left, the better.

1. If Cambria is in bloom, trim the flower stalk. It will take away from the plant the strength it needs to recover.
2. If there are any rotten roots left, remove them. Treat the remaining ones with Fundazol.
3. Place the bark in a small pot and secure the Cambria firmly. The plant should not wobble.
4. A thin layer of sphagnum moss can be laid on top of the bark.
5. Place the container with the plant in a cool, bright place away from drafts.
6. Do not water the flower; you should only spray the top layer of substrate or moss.
7. Maintain air humidity by spraying water around the orchid with a fine spray bottle.

If you have a greenhouse or an old aquarium, you can use them. In this case, we fix Cambria on a piece of bark and install it inside an aquarium, for example. The root system grows quite quickly in greenhouse conditions and without a pine substrate. It is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse and maintain humidity.

But you shouldn’t grow roots in water. This method is suitable for other types of orchids, but not for Cambria. You can try fixing the plant above the surface of the water and wait. Once the roots appear, Cambria will need to be secured to pine bark.

Reproduction of Cumbria

Cambria is propagated by dividing the bush. If the plant becomes cramped in the old container, then when replanting the bush is divided in such a way that each part has at least three pseudobulbs. The procedure is carried out carefully, trying not to damage the roots. The wounds and cuts are sprinkled with crushed coal and dried. Then the separated material is planted in a bark substrate and not watered for a week. The first feeding is carried out at least a month later.

The Cambria orchid is a hybrid variety of the "tropical beauty". Long, narrow leaves of deep green color, pseudobulbs, spectacular flowers of red, purple, soft brown and pleasant yellow shades are characteristic features of the original species. The second name of the plant is Star Orchid, due to the shape of the buds.

The tropical look has taken root well in apartments and offices, and many are interested in the nuances of growing the noble flower Cambria Orchid. Caring for a beautifully flowering hybrid at home is much easier than caring for other species of the Orchidaceae family. It is no coincidence that many novice flower growers choose the Asterisk Orchid.

Cambria: types and varieties

The tropical plant has several varieties. Many varieties and species are perfect for growing in offices and apartments.

Popular types of Cumbria Orchids:

• Burrageara(a hybrid based on 4 varieties: Oncidium, Cochlyodes, Miltonia and Odontoglossum).
• Beallara(a hybrid species developed by crossing four varieties of Orchids).
• Colmanara(hybrid, base - 3 types of noble flowers of a popular family of tropical plants).

Orchids are beautiful, but there are other interesting names for spectacular green decor. All fans of unusual plants who dream of impressing family members and guests will enjoy equally exotic species. Interesting plants: Lithops (“Living Stones”), Stapelia (“Star of the Order”), Echeveria (“Stone Rose”), Aichrizon (“Tree of Love”), Adenium (“Desert Rose”), Haworthia (Zebra Cactus), Rhipsalis (“Forest Miracle”).

Home care

The advantage of the Cambria Orchid is that there are fewer requirements for maintenance parameters: the flower is not as capricious as other species from the same family. However, you should not think that a “noble beauty” native to the tropics will grow “on its own”, like Gaillardia or Mallow. The basic rules for growing Star Orchids are described in the following sections.

Other plants of the Orchid family are also successfully grown in homes and office spaces: the luxurious Vanda Orchid and the lush Dendrobium Orchid. Exotic plants have become a common decor, but when you see noble flowers, it’s hard to resist making admiring comments about the hostess, who takes excellent care of the rather capricious species.

Location and choice of flowerpot

Where to place the plant? Recommendations to consider:

• east or west room;
• a room with sufficient light;
• not under the scorching rays of the sun;
• in the south-eastern and southern rooms it should be possible to shade the plant in the heat;
• not in a draft;
• during the heating season, the flowerpot with a flower should be taken to a cooler room;
• there is a possibility of access to fresh air.

Soil and drainage

Excessive dry air is an enemy for the tropical species. To retain liquid in the soil, it is useful to add vermiculite or perlite to the substrate. If the owners are leaving for a while and there is no one to moisten the soil in a pot with an Orchid, then you need to test homemade automatic watering systems in advance or add granular material to the pot - hydrogel, which accumulates and gradually releases moisture.

Experienced flower growers prepare the soil themselves, but it is easier and more reliable to buy a bag of soil mixture for Orchids. The substrate is loose, not heavy, absorbs and releases moisture well, but is quite nutritious. Agricultural stores have bags of soil of different weights.

On a note! Stagnant moisture is harmful to the large roots of a tropical flower; good drainage is essential. Suitable material is pieces of bark, large enough.

Planting and transplanting

Useful tips and important nuances:

• If you buy suitable soil and follow the rules of care, problems with the Asterisk Orchid are rare, the plant develops well.
• Regular transplantation is not needed. Moving to a larger pot is done approximately once every three to four years. Replanting is necessary if the substrate has become too dense or the roots have grown so large that they are sticking out of the flowerpot.
• Suitable soil for Orchids is sold in flower shops.
• The flowerpot is made of ceramic or plastic. Beautiful glass containers are not used, because the roots of a tropical plant do not tolerate exposure to light.
• The diameter of the new flower pot is 2-4 cm larger than the previous one, taking into account the size of the root system.
• Replant the plant after moistening the substrate.
• For a week after transplantation, the Orchid in the new flowerpot is not disturbed, fed or watered.

Step-by-step video - instructions for replanting the Cambria Orchid:

Temperature and humidity

There is a misconception that all tropical plants grow well only in a very warm room, with high levels of water vapor in the air (about 80%). Similar conditions can be created in a home, but such a microclimate will be unfavorable for the household and housewife.

The advantage of Cambria Orchids is that there is no need to set up a “greenhouse” in the apartment and raise the temperature to +25°C and above. On the contrary, the unpretentious species develops well and blooms at more moderate temperatures: from +17 to +21..22 degrees in summer and at least +15°C in winter, during rest after flowering.

Maintaining the required humidity is easy:

• It is useful to place a jar of water near the flowerpot so that the moisture gradually evaporates and penetrates the greenery and tropical flowers;
• You should not place the flower on the windowsill with the batteries on. If you cannot find another zone for the Asterisk Orchid in your home, then the method from the previous paragraph (a container of water) corrects the situation and stabilizes humidity levels;
• in the warm season, if it is impossible to reduce the temperature in the room, you need to spray water more often near the plant. You need to adapt and make sure that the droplets do not settle on the buds and leaves, otherwise unsightly yellow spots will appear.

Watering and spraying

Important indicators, if violated, root rot and other fungal infections appear. The plant loves high air humidity in the warm season, but the plant must be sprayed correctly, otherwise problems will appear and the decorative effect will decrease.

Five rules for flower growers:

• Carry out strictly bottom watering. Pour water into a bucket and place the pot with the orchid for half an hour so that the edge of the container is not immersed in the liquid. Next, take out the flowerpot and wait for the moisture to drain well through the drainage holes.
• Monitor the humidity in the room: it is important that the air does not dry out, but there is also no excess water vapor, especially in the cold season.
• Correct spraying is spraying droplets in the area near the flowerpot with the Cambria Orchid, but without the droplets getting on the greens and flowers. Improper implementation of the procedure quickly affects the appearance of the tropical specimen: yellow spots appear on the leaf blades.
• For irrigation, take the settled liquid. Tap water should be kept in the bucket for two days.
• In winter, after flowering, despite the absence of a clearly defined dormant period, many indicators are adjusted, including substrate moisture. Watering is carried out less frequently, the flowerpot with the Asterisk Orchid is moved to a cooler area, and spraying is not required.

The substrate should dry well between waterings, but a “stone” earthen ball is a bad omen, a consequence of insufficient soil moisture for Orchids.

Lighting and supplementary lighting

A luxurious tropical plant loves light, does not grow well in the shade, flowering is weak or absent. The light-loving species does not like direct, hot rays of the sun: burns on the leaves are possible. For this reason, the Orchid is shaded in the summer if the plant is on a southern windowsill or on the southeast side. Suitable placement areas are rooms with windows facing west or east.

Additional lighting is an important nuance for the proper growth and good flowering of the Star Orchid. During the dormant period, additional lighting is not required, however, in spring and autumn, when daylight hours decrease, it is useful to use a phytolamp to extend the light period to 12 hours. In winter, even when organizing a vacation for a tropical look, you still choose a bright place rather than shade.

Warning! A lack of lighting combined with a temperature of about +14..15 degrees often provokes weakness of an exotic plant. If high humidity is added to these conditions, then in a damp, dark room or on the veranda, the Cambria Orchid will most likely wither and die.

Feeding and fertilizers

The application of liquid mixtures for orchids is carried out from spring to early autumn, during the intensive growing season and flowering. Fertilizers for feeding tropical species are always available in flower shops.

Liquid products are added along the edge of the flowerpot, without contact with the green mass and other parts of the flower. It is important to add a certain amount of fertilizer so as not to exceed the concentration.

Flowering and dormant period

The Cambria orchid in most cases pleases with luxurious buds in the autumn-winter period. A bulb forms on the shoot from the vein in the summer, then a peduncle appears in the axils of the leaves. In order for the petals to have rich shades, additional illumination is required when there is a shortage of sunlight.

There is no dormant period for this type of orchid, but with the natural shortening of daylight hours and a drop in temperature, you need to reduce the frequency of feeding and watering, and move the plant to a cool room.

Features of seasonal care

On a note:

• during the growing season and flowering - regular moistening, fertilization, sufficient level of light;
• At the end of flowering, you need to give the Cambria Orchid a short rest in order to gain strength for active spring growing season and maintain the correct life cycle.

Reproduction methods

Reproduction of the Cambria Orchid is possible in several ways.

Children

Babies are formed on an adult plant, which are separated from the mother bush for further germination. Breeding Star Orchids begins when two or three leaves are formed on the children.

What to do with the children after separation? There are two ways to germinate the base for young plants:

• planting directly into the ground;
• preliminary germination in water to which the growth stimulator Kornevin or another drug of similar action has been added.

Rooted children are grown in the same conditions and similar soil as adult plants.

Dividing the bush

The second method of propagation is dividing the bush:

• the procedure coincides with an Orchid transplant;
• first, take the plant out of the flowerpot, carefully clear the soil from the roots, check for rotten and diseased areas, which are removed;
• an adult Orchid is divided into several parts, the areas are treated with charcoal so that the cuts do not rot;
• each small bush is planted in a container of a suitable size with soil for Orchids;
• In the first time after the procedure, caring for a young plant is described in the “Planting and Replanting” section.

Care errors and their elimination

Important information is reflected in the table:

Problem	Causes	Elimination
The leaves of the Orchid turn yellow and dry out.	1. The plant is located on a windowsill or decorative stand, and the leaves receive direct rays of the sun in the summer. 2. Incorrect feeding: excess nitrogen fertilizers. 3. Air humidity is significantly below normal, the room is very hot. 4. Rare watering	1. Be sure to shade the plant in the summer if all the windows of the apartment face south and it is impossible to move the flower to another room. 2. Water the Cambria Orchid every week in summer. 3. Refuse from excessive application of mineral fertilizers with nitrogen. 4. Every day, spray water near the tropical plant, but not on the leaves. 5 Maintain a moderate temperature in the room: in summer - from +17 to +22 degrees, in winter - from +14°C to +16°C.
Rotting	1. Incorrect watering regime, adding liquid more often than required. 2. The room is damp and cold, but the frequency of soil moisture does not change compared to the usual temperature. 3. The soil does not dry out well. 4. The housewife adds water from above, rather than using bottom watering	Analyze the factors that provoke the development of root rot. Adjust substrate moisture, stabilize the relationship between temperature and watering frequency
Doesn't bloom	Excessive watering during bulb formation	1. At the first stage, until the element is fully formed, you cannot water the plant for several weeks. 2. Moistening of the substrate begins again only after the appearance of one or several flower stalks in the leaf axils
Yellow spots appeared on the leaves	Incorrect watering and spraying: drops of water fall on the leaf plates	1. Use strictly bottom watering. 2. When spraying liquid, make sure that the water particles humidify the air around the flowerpot, and not the plant itself

And others.

Each parent influenced the shape, colors, number of flowers, aroma, and flowering duration. This the complex combination of different species does not cause any difficulty in caring for such a wonderful plant.

Next, we will present you with its various types, their photos and names, as well as aspects of care.

The history of Cumbria began in 1900., when Charles Vuylstekeara, a Belgian by birth, obtained the first hybrid and gave it the name Vuylstekeara Cambria ‘Plush’. Since that time, almost all varieties have been named by orchid breeders.

This is a complex hybrid from the family of sympodial orchids– growing horizontally, having several growth points, more reminiscent of a vine in shape.

The resulting lateral shoots produce pseudobulbs, which are used for propagation. The bulbs have an oval-flattened or elongated-fusiform shape, blooming only once, forming 1-2 peduncles.

Each pseudobulb is crowned with long, narrow, broadly lanceolate leaves, closely pressed to each other, reaching up to half a meter in some species. The leaf is dark green with a prominent central vein.

Vuylstekeara Cambria ‘Plush’.

Flowers of various shapes and colors with a diameter of up to 10 cm. Lushly blooming Cambria is as if strewn with precious stones.

The roots are thin, thread-like, and serve mainly to stabilize the plant in the substrate. After the pseudobulb has flowered, the roots die off. But young bulbs quickly take root, some of which remain aerial and serve to obtain nutrition and moisture from the air.

Orchid Cambria.

Important! Unlike other orchid species, Cambria's root system does not participate in photosynthesis.

Distinctive features

One of the distinctive features is the shoot type of growth. It is this feature that distinguishes it from other orchids. Another pronounced difference between some species is flower shape - star Therefore, Cambria is often called the star orchid.

What are bulbs and pseudobulbs?

In sympodial orchids bulba(pseudobulb, tuberedia, false bulb, pseudobulb, aboveground tuber) – circumterrestrial, thickened part of the stem located near the substrate. The main purpose is to accumulate moisture and nutrients, which is typical for epiphytes growing in tropical latitudes. In Cambria, pseudobulbs reach 8 cm in length.

Bulba (pseudobulb) of orchids.

Most common colors

The colors can be very diverse, depending on which hybrid is obtained. Among the most common and popular for home growing:

• yellow;
• red;
• pink;
• white-pink-purple;
• creamy.

Each of these colors can have different shades, with or without inclusions, patterns, spots, stains.

Varieties of Cambria orchid

Mix

The prefix “mix” only means that the flower is not of natural origin.

And since Cumbria is not a natural phenomenon anyway, then the mix is ​​used for trading purposes.

This means that Cambria without the prefix mix and Cambria mix are the same complex orchid hybrid, which has a large number of varieties.

Beallara margarita hill

A complex hybrid with fairly tall peduncles and numerous flowers, with unusual coloring of dark red with white lines, streaks and spots.

Blooms almost all year round, increasing the number of flower-bearing arrows every year. The flowers have a light aroma.

Beallara margarita hill.

Catatante Pacific Sun Sports

This type of orchid is characterized by crossing of several species. It is characterized by shoot growth, oval pseudobulbs and narrow, long leaves with pointed ends.

Stands out for its unusually beautiful coloring of flowers. Dark red, purple, orange flowers with lines and spots of white are quite large in size.

Catatante Pacific Sun Sports.

Colmanara Tropic Jungle

Selection of several species, with tall peduncles, oval-shaped pseudobulbs and narrow, pointed, rather long leaves with parallel veining.

Usually blooms twice a year with a dozen flowers on each peduncle. The color scheme of the flowers combines red, white, yellow and brown. The fleshy growth of the white-red lip stands out especially. At certain times it emits a light aroma.

Colmanara Tropic Jungle.

Odontoglossum Stirbick

Although Odontoglossum prefers cool conditions, it develops successfully in apartment conditions. Regular growth of bulbs contributes to the appearance of new peduncles, which become more and more numerous with age. The leaves are narrow and long, lanceolate and light green in color.

On tall peduncles there are usually from 2 to 7 star-shaped flowers, with bright stripes, spots of red, white, yellow and burgundy. Emits a light aroma that intensifies at certain times.

Odontoglossum Stirbick.

Reviews

Oleg.“I’ve been keeping orchids for many years now and I like Cambria much more than Phalaenopsis. If the second one needs to be somehow stimulated for flowering, then Cambria blooms successfully with each new bulb. And it creates fewer problems in care.”

Marina.“We’ll see what happens with my Cambria, which I recently purchased at a sale at a flower center. It’s a pity that I bought it already faded. But so far, even without flowers, it looks much better due to more greenery than other types of orchids.”

Elena.“I have been growing orchids for many years, fortunately I have space in my house. There are Vulstecarea, Burrageara, Colmonara, Brassia, Miltassia, Dendrobium nobile and several faliques. I'm crazy about them. I’m ready to spend hours studying such beauty. In addition, Cambrians also emit an aroma. What is also important is that it is easy to care for and home conditions are perfect. For more than 10 years, no diseases have been noticed in them.”

External characteristics

Height of an adult plant: maximum length of peduncle

Peduncles appear from the axils of the lower leaves. The height of adult orchids can reach 60 cm and bear a large number of inflorescences. There are varieties in which they can reach one and a half meters in length - Kolmanar.

Number of leaves

Each pseudobulb bears up to three narrow and long leaves. And on one plant there can be up to 12 pseudobulbs. So There can be a large number of leaves.

Diameter, flower shape

In most species the flower resembles a star shape, with a wide, large lower petal and almost twice as narrow as the upper petals. The middle, reminiscent of a tongue and a forked lip, clearly manifests itself.

Flower diameter varies. There are species with small flowers, and some with 10 cm in diameter. According to flower growers, some flowers reached 15 cm.

The basic shape of the flower consists of 5 sepals and one wide petal called the lip.

Main features of flowering

Period

The peduncle can bloom for up to 2 months.

Is it possible to re-bloom?

Cambria's pseudobulbs ensure its life cycle. Basically, in most species, before blooming, the bulb fills with juice, thickens and, as it were, freezes. And very soon flower stalks begin to form from the leaf axils.

It should be removed from the container and the rotten roots should be cut off. Treat the entire plant with Fundazol and fix it on a new substrate, consisting of pine bark and small pieces of polystyrene foam, using some kind of device.

In this case, you do not need to water the orchid, only spray it on the leaf 1-2 times a week, like a “foggy cloud.” The leaves are covered with such a cloud so that the drops do not run down them. Periodically, with every third spraying, instead of water, spray with a solution of Fundazol.

Even with the complete absence of roots, Cambria can be revived.

The emergence of new roots is a rather long process. Patience and proper care will give a positive result, and the orchid will not die. The main thing is to avoid making mistakes in the future.

Main diseases and their treatment

Yellowing and lethargy of leaves

One of the most common problems not just in Cumbria. There are plenty of reasons:

• lack of lighting;
• exposure to direct sunlight;
• problems with the root system - fungal infections;
• lack of nutrition;
• insufficient watering;
• hypothermia;
• natural process of shedding leaves.

Treatment and prevention are based on proper and correct care and the creation of acceptable conditions.

Black spots on leaves

If they do not spread and with good leaf turgor, the spots are not on all the foliage, then in principle there is nothing wrong.

But it's worth worrying about. There may be some kind of fungal disease and it is better to treat it with a fungicide.

Dark spots may appear as a result of sunburn after spraying. And Cambria doesn't like spraying.

The roots have rotted

In case of complete or partial rotting of the root system, transplantation or resuscitation measures are necessary. And the sooner this is done, the sooner the orchid will recover and not die.

The main cause of root rot is improper watering and waterlogging of the soil.

Dry rot on the bulb

Rotting of the bulbs is associated either with deep planting of orchids, or exposure to water. They should be removed. If necessary, replant the plant and carry out proper watering, avoiding moisture.

The bulbs wrinkled

Wrinkling of pseudobulbs is mainly associated with possible drying of roots due to insufficient watering. It is necessary to organize watering using the immersion method and prevent moisture from entering the axils of the leaves.

Often the reason is finding snails in the substrate. Then a transplant is required.

Wrinkled bulb.

Reproduction methods at home

Dividing the bush

Orchid propagation - very exciting activity. If you have certain knowledge, then this process does not pose much of a risk and is almost always completed successfully.

Sympodial cambria always form at least two buds at the base of the pseudobulbs. For propagation, it is better to use a healthy plant with 3-4 divisions. The bush is carefully divided so that each part has at least 3 pseudobulbs. The incision is made carefully to avoid damage to the roots.

Important! The sections are treated with crushed activated carbon and then dried.

Then the prepared material is planted in a new bark substrate. Watering is carried out only after 7-10 days, and fertilizing is carried out at least every month. The delenki are fixed with pegs and shaded a little.

Useful videos

Watch a video describing Cambria:

Orchid Cambria: video about care, watering and replanting:

In this video you can see an orchid transplant:

The following video tells about the reproduction of Cambria:

Conclusion

Although Cumbria unpretentious at home, lack of experience and care can lead to dire consequences. Only by strictly observing the care requirements and paying due attention to the flower can you admire the beautiful, long-lasting flowering for many years.

One has only to try to grow this exotic plant and a lover of home floriculture will no longer be able to tear himself away from this activity.

In contact with