Ceiling insulation technologies. The cheaper way to insulate the ceiling of a house

Insulating the ceiling in a private house is a guarantee of warm rooms in winter and a cool climate in summer. You need to take care of this even at the stage of building a house. But if you got the house ready-made, you can still insulate the ceiling with minimal effort.

School knowledge of physics can still be useful in life. So, due to convection, when cold air goes down and hot air goes up, all the heat accumulated in the room will penetrate through the uninsulated ceiling into the unheated attic. Because of this, you have to increase the boiler power and, as a result, incur additional heating costs.

For the same reason, ceiling insulation requires a more serious approach than wall insulation - due to air flows, heat loss from a wooden ceiling can reach 3 W/m2/K. For brick or concrete floors the figure is even higher. At the same time, there is no need to insulate the ceilings between living spaces if the temperature in them is the same. It is enough to take care of sound insulation and save money on thermal insulation of the attic and roof.

In summer, it is also better to have an insulated ceiling - the roof heated by the sun transfers heat into the room, negating the operation of air conditioners. Having spent once on thermal insulation, you can enjoy a comfortable microclimate in your home for many years.

What to look for when choosing insulation?

First of all, you need to decide where to install the insulation - inside or outside the living rooms. The first option is extremely undesirable for several reasons:

• ceiling height decreases;
• it is impossible to use bulk insulation;
• the cooling point moves closer to the inside of the ceilings;
• inevitable repairs due to dismantling the old ceiling.

Attic insulation is devoid of all these negative features. But if an attic is not provided, or the project includes an attic floor, the roof must be insulated immediately.

Choosing materials for insulation with your own hands

Polystyrene foam or EPS, as well as mineral wool and its analogs are suitable for insulation from the inside and outside. Such materials are laid between beams or in a specially constructed frame and covered with plasterboard, OSB boards or clapboard.

But if there is a sauna in the house, then it is better not to insulate the ceiling above it with polystyrene foam - due to high temperatures, it can begin to release substances harmful to humans.

Aerated concrete slabs are also excellent for internal insulation due to their low weight and ease of installation. Their thickness of up to 10 cm will not “eat up” very much height, and additional cladding will not be required. Polystyrene board adhesive is applied to the boards with a notched trowel and pressed against the ceiling.

The insulation is puttied and painted.

Bulk insulation materials such as shavings, ecowool or expanded clay are quite economical. True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing. Such insulation is poured between the beams on the attic side in a layer of about 15 cm, and for ease of movement in the attic it is covered with OSB boards.

True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing.

What kind of insulation is not chewed by mice?

Mice chew any insulation. But not as food, but to expand their moves. You may hear claims that mice eat styrofoam. This is not entirely true - they gnaw through it and build nests in it. But the same fate will befall mineral wool, albeit a little later.

Due to its flowability, ecowool can help a little - but rodents will simply endure it until they can settle and move normally in the insulation. The most rodent-resistant expanded clay is strong “pebbles”, large enough so that mice and even rats cannot carry them away, and at the same time small enough to fill their passages.

But there is a catch here - mice will arrange “beds” there. Therefore, the only way to protect the insulation is to prevent rodents from entering it in principle. Everything else is only a temporary and very unreliable solution.

How to insulate an attic ceiling?

Do-it-yourself insulation from the attic side is quite simple. First, space is cleared and the floor covering (if any) is completely removed. The work is carried out step by step:

To insulate a concrete floor, the technology is exactly the same - it is enough to lay logs on top of the concrete. You can also use sprayed materials, but this requires special equipment and certain skills.

How to insulate a ceiling from the inside?

Using a suspended ceiling, you can insulate a room from the inside. For this:

Due to the lack of ventilation, it is undesirable to use spotlights in an insulated ceiling - they heat up and quickly fail. And upon contact with polystyrene foam, the insulation may begin to melt.

There are three ways to solve the problem. The first is to use only pendant chandeliers and wall lights. The second is to remove the layer of thermal insulation around the lamps built into the ceiling. At the same time, do not forget about the vapor barrier - it should cover the mineral wool without gaps. And the third is to lower the ceiling a few more centimeters, sufficient to install spotlights.

How to insulate the attic floor and the ceiling of the attic floor is described in detail in the video:

In cold climates, it is very important to properly insulate your home. Usually attention is paid to the floor, walls, windows, but not the ceiling - but up to 15% of the heat can escape through it.

How to choose material for insulation

The question often arises as to how to insulate the ceiling of a house. The choice of material depends primarily on the climate of the region. The most common insulation material is mineral wool, which has excellent thermal insulation properties. If the air temperature outside does not drop below -35 degrees, then this material will be the best choice.

Mineral wool is made (see photo) from artificial fibers of mineral origin. Limestone, basalt, dolomite, and diabase are used for its production. The highest quality insulation is obtained if only rocks are used in the manufacturing process. The advantages of mineral wool include fire resistance, durability, and low hygroscopicity.

Ecowool is a cellulose insulation material installed using special equipment. The material contains thin wood fibers formed during recycling of waste paper and special antiseptics. Ecowool has only been used for a couple of decades, but due to its ability to fill empty space, it is becoming increasingly popular. Its disadvantages include the impossibility of independent use - it is necessary to call specialists to carry out the work, as well as a significant amount of dust in the case of dry installation. The advantages of the material are excellent thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness and affordable price.

When choosing how to insulate the ceiling of a house, you should not forget about other widespread insulation materials - polystyrene foam, penoizol (more details: " ").

Polystyrene foam is made by creating foam from different types of plastics. It contains a large amount of air, making it a lightweight material that is convenient for installation and transportation. It has excellent thermal insulation and sound absorption properties. In addition, polystyrene foam is convenient to work with - it can be easily cut and can be attached to any surface.

Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic, the advantage of which is its low price. It also fills any spaces, thereby reliably protecting your home from the cold. But to use it you need to have special equipment, so you have to trust specialists to work with this material. Penoizol is recommended for insulation of large areas.

As for what can be used to insulate the ceiling in cold regions, where the temperature in winter can be less than -35 degrees, this is expanded clay. It is made from clay by firing, is resistant to low temperatures and protects well from heat loss.

Tools for work

To carry out insulation work on a small house (for example, a summer house), you will need the following tools:

• bench knife;
• hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• hammer.

If you will be insulating a private house or cottage, then it is better to purchase the following power tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• Bulgarian

What is needed to insulate the ceiling

Be sure to do waterproofing. Typically, glassine, produced in rolls, is used for this - it is convenient when carrying out work on thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. It is simply spread out in the attic and cut to the required dimensions (read: ""). Previously we used roofing felt, but it was not very convenient to use. Glassine is a modern waterproofing material obtained from roofing cardboard and impregnated with bitumen. It reliably protects against the formation of condensation and prevents the penetration of moisture into the layers of thermal insulation.

You also need to think about fasteners. The most affordable and easiest to use are ordinary nails, but if you need to insulate a large ceiling area, it will be more convenient to use self-tapping screws. Using a screwdriver or electric drill to tighten them can save time and effort.

In order to insulate a ceiling yourself, you do not need university-level knowledge. It is enough to understand the floor plan, know the types of heat insulators used and how to install them.

How to choose the right material for ceiling insulation

Insulating the ceiling will significantly reduce the cost of heating residential premises. The main heat loss occurs through the upper and lower floors of the house, so you need to pay attention to both of them. It should be understood that insulating the attic floor requires a more careful approach than interfloor insulation. The fact is that the first one will always be colder, since there is a roof next to it.

When choosing thermal insulation materials, the following characteristics must be taken into account:

• thermal conductivity (the lower it is, the better the insulation will be);
• water absorption coefficient (an important indicator that allows you to choose the least hygroscopic material);
• density and weight;
• flammability class (optimal G1);
• environmental friendliness.

In a private house, the ceiling can be either concrete or wood. In the first case, bulk materials, foam plastic, sprayed heat insulators, and dense mineral wool boards are used. To insulate a wooden floor, you can use any available materials with a low thermal conductivity coefficient. It is easier and easier to work with such ceilings. Methods for installing the same materials for concrete and wooden floors may be different.

GOST R 52952-2008. Thermal insulation materials and products. File for download.

In order to quickly determine the type of insulation, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the table.

Table. Characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials.

Material	Thermal conductivity coefficient (W/m*°C)	Flammability class	Density (kg/m3)
Expanded polystyrene	0,035-0,039	G2	15-25
Styrofoam	0,025	G2	35-50
Mineral wool boards	0,035	NG (non-flammable)	250
Mineral wool	0,041	NG	125
Slag	-	NG	1000
Expanded clay	1,148	NG	500
Perlite	0,041	NG	40
Vermiculite	0,05	NG	100
Fiberboards	0,09	G2	250
Sawdust	0,090-0,180	G2	25

Video - How and how to insulate the ceiling of a private house

Methods of ceiling insulation, their pros and cons

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house:

• internal;
• external

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. If possible, both can be used to achieve the best results.

Internal

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room will require the installation of a suspended frame made of metal profiles or wooden blocks. This method is disadvantageous in that it significantly reduces the space of the room. Another disadvantage is that you will have to work at heights, holding tools and materials suspended. This will require significant labor costs.

Internal insulation requires a high-quality vapor barrier, since steam always rises and must certainly leave the room. Otherwise, the ceiling will inevitably become damp and mold or mildew will appear on it. Therefore, when choosing thermal insulation materials, it is important to take into account their vapor permeability coefficient.

External

External ceiling insulation is easier to perform, since in this case the construction of an expensive and bulky suspended frame is not required. You can use any bulk materials with low thermal conductivity: sawdust, expanded clay, slag, foam chips, ecowool. This method is often used when insulating attic floors if you do not plan to use the space under the roof.

In the event that an attic-type room is equipped, the external insulation of the ceiling will simultaneously serve as a floor structure. Therefore, to complete this task, you will need to install the frame and then cover it with suitable durable materials: boards, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

Technology of internal insulation of a concrete ceiling in a private house

The easiest way to insulate a concrete floor is from the attic side. The fact is that to install a frame inside a living space, you will need to perform a complex of very labor-intensive work, including drilling numerous holes.

But if there is no other way out, you should prepare all the necessary tools:

• drill or hammer drill;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• construction bubble level;
• twine and marker for marking.

Materials you will need:

• metal profile for working with drywall (can be replaced with wooden blocks with a cross section of 40/40 mm);
• hangers for fixing metal profiles (narrow perforated metal strips);
• connecting elements - “crabs”, used when installing frames for suspended ceilings;
• insulation (foam sheets, rolled materials, mineral wool boards);
• panels for covering the frame (moisture-resistant plywood, OSB, plasterboard);
• vapor barrier membrane (film).

Stages of constructing a suspended frame and insulation

Step 1. Marking. In order to perform this task correctly, you need to understand what the frame layout is. It consists of longitudinal and transverse posts connected to each other by crabs and fixed to the ceiling using hangers.

In order to make it easier for yourself to insulate a concrete floor, you need to choose such a distance between the longitudinal posts so that insulation sheets can be laid in the openings between them without additional cutting. But it should be taken into account that it should not exceed 80 cm, since in this case the structure will be unstable.

Markings are applied to all four walls adjacent to the ceiling. The easiest way is to stretch the cord from corner to corner, checking the correct direction using a bubble level. After this, markings are applied directly to the ceiling itself.

Step 2. Installation of guides. To install the frame, two types of metal profiles are used: PN 28/27 and PP 60/27. The first is the guide. It is attached in accordance with the marking lines along the walls.

Step 3. Installation of hangers. In order for the frame to be firmly attached to the ceiling, the suspensions are installed at a distance of 80-90 cm from each other. The required number of holes is drilled on the ceiling in the right places.

Step 4. Installation of longitudinal and transverse frame posts. Install the PP 60/27 metal profile so that the location of each rack corresponds to the markings.

Step 5. Laying the heat insulator. To support the material laid between the posts, the legs of the suspensions are used, bending them in the desired direction.

Step 6. Laying a vapor barrier membrane. At this stage of work, it is important not to damage the integrity of the film with sharp objects. You need to pull it carefully, fixing it on the metal frame posts using double-sided tape.

Step 7 Frame covering. When performing this work, it is important to install the sheathing panels so that the gaps between them are minimal. Solid sheets must be fastened perpendicular to long guide profiles. The joining of sheets should be done in the middle of the profile. For high-quality fastening, it is better to do the work together. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the latter are recessed into the sheathing material by 2-3 mm. The pitch between the screws should be 25-30 cm (3-4 cm from each corner of the sheets).

Chips should not form on the edges of the sheets when screwing in the screws. If damage does occur, the self-tapping screw must be removed and a new one screwed in 3-4 cm.

Important point! There must be a ventilation gap of at least 1 cm between the insulation and the sheathing. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate under the film.

External ceiling insulation technology in a private house

External insulation of the upper floor can be single-layer or multi-layer. Regardless of the chosen option for landscaping the attic space, it is recommended to use materials with low weight. This applies to both wooden and concrete ceilings.

If you plan to use bulk material, it is necessary to correctly calculate the layer thickness. For sawdust, 20-30 cm is enough, for expanded clay 10-15 cm. To make it convenient to move around the attic, install a frame on top of which a floorboard, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood are laid.

To construct the frame for external insulation of the ceiling, it is recommended to use wooden blocks or boards. The first ones are suitable if the layer is not very thick.

Stages of work on constructing a frame for external ceiling insulation

Step 1. Based on the dimensions of the insulation sheets, the distance between the frame (sheathing) posts is determined.

Step 2. Draw up a diagram for laying longitudinal and transverse crossbars.

Step 3. The boards are installed at the ends.

Step 4. The boards are secured to the floor using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Selection of material for external insulation

There are several possible options; let’s take a look at the installation features of each of them.

Styrofoam

The following can be placed in the openings between the frame posts:

• mineral wool in rolls and mats;
• foam sheets;
• bulk thermal insulation.

The choice depends on the financial capabilities of the home owner and his preferences. The least troublesome floor insulation is using polystyrene foam. If this particular material is chosen, the frame must be built so that the sheet can be laid without preliminary cutting. In the case of polystyrene foam, this is not entirely simple. Manufacturers offer canvases with a width of 50 cm and 1 m. You can use any.

The most preferred brand for attic floor insulation is C25. This is a denser foam compared to C15, therefore it has lower thermal conductivity. Polystyrene foam C35 and polyurethane foam are expensive materials, but the most beneficial for regions with harsh climates, as they provide the highest quality insulation.

Mineral wool

Manufacturers offer a wide selection of fibrous thermal insulation materials. The most popular: “Isover”, “Rockwool”, “Ursa”, “Parok”. These materials have many advantages, but have only one drawback: hygroscopicity. If the roof is not sufficiently waterproofed, mineral wool cannot be used to insulate the attic. Over time, it will inevitably absorb moisture and lose most of its thermal insulation properties.

Sawdust

The cheapest and easiest way to insulate the ceiling from the outside is to use sawdust. When choosing this material, it should be taken into account that it is also very hygroscopic. To prevent wood rotting, sawdust is mixed with lime. Building materials stores sell fluffed lime that is ideal for this purpose.

Another way to insulate with sawdust is to prepare a mixture consisting of the following ingredients:

• sawdust;
• cement;
• water.

Optimal proportions: 10:1:1. The mass is mixed manually in a container of suitable volume or in a concrete mixer. Fill the space between the sheathing posts with the finished composition and allow time to dry.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is the most convenient bulk insulation. When using it, there is one nuance, knowledge of which will allow you to obtain better insulation. When filling expanded clay, you need to ensure that granules of different diameters are present. This will eliminate large voids.

The name of this material should not be misleading: it has nothing to do with high environmental friendliness. Ecowool is made from recycled materials: newspapers, cardboard, bags. All components are mixed with brown and boric acid. These additives are needed to ensure a low flammability coefficient of the material and prevent its rotting.

The advantage of ecowool is that it has low thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability. We can say about this material that it “breathes”, so mold or mildew never forms under it.

Ecowool is extremely easy to install and apply. All insulation work can be done with your own hands, without the involvement of assistants.

There are three ways to lay ecowool:

• dry;
• wet;
• adhesive.

In the first case, ecowool is placed in the openings of the sheathing and compacted. To insulate using the last two methods (wet and glue), you will need a special machine consisting of a hopper, a sprayer and a compressor. A mixture based on water or PVA glue is prepared in a hopper, after which ecowool is fed under pressure into a hose from which spraying is carried out.

Ceiling insulation using polyurethane foam

A modern method of ceiling insulation is spraying polyurethane foam (PPU). This lightweight foam material is quickly applied to any surface. At the same time, it does not need to be attached to the wall or ceiling, as it firmly adheres to them.

PPU has the following advantages:

• has low flammability;
• non-toxic;
• resistant to chemicals;
• has low hygroscopicity;
• durable.

When sprayed, a continuous layer without gaps is formed. This eliminates the formation of cold bridges, which makes the insulation better. Polyurethane foam has excellent vapor permeability, so the ceiling does not require additional vapor barrier. This allows you to save on the cost of insulating the ceiling.

Before applying polyurethane foam, it is important to make sure that the condition of the surfaces meets the requirements for them. The humidity level of a concrete ceiling should not exceed 4%, wooden - 12%.

Before starting work, all surfaces not intended for insulation are covered with paper, polyethylene or thick fabric. Polyurethane foam is applied in layers, constantly monitoring the thickness of the spray. Before applying the next layer, make sure that the previous one is completely dry and hardened. The application density of polyurethane foam is 30-50 kg per 1 m3. This method of insulating the ceiling in a private house is the most expensive, but at the same time the most convenient.

Video - Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam

Any owner strives to create a comfortable stay in his home. To do this, it periodically monitors possible heat losses, as a result of which the room temperature may decrease and energy use may increase. Window and door openings are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by home owners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls and foundation. But for some reason people don’t always remember about the ceiling. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and heating devices will not have to heat the environment.

Methods for insulating the ceiling in a private house include both interior work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and materials used:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent finishing of the surface with plasterboard or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
• External ceiling insulation is performed in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, since it does not require further finishing work if the use of the room as an attic is not envisaged. It is recommended to use a vapor-tight material to prevent moisture from entering the ceiling. The most commonly used are: polystyrene foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

Choice of insulation

The modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of significant disadvantages among their advantages. The choice must meet the technology requirements.

Basic requirements that insulation must meet:

• do not release toxic substances;
• be resistant to moisture;
• have a low degree of flammability.

Popular materials for energy saving work at home

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristics of the insulation meet the technical requirements of thermal insulation. Use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

• low degree of thermal conductivity;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• lack of flammability;
• environmental characteristics.

Still, the material has disadvantages:

• ability to absorb moisture;
• When installing, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
• additionally treat the joint seams with polyurethane foam for better sealing;
• to attach the insulation, a lathing is made of wooden beams or profiles;
• relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of layers of foamed polyethylene and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. It represents the basis for innovative finishing of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy resources. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, draft and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool and create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the structure does not become heavier. To work with penofol, you will need a minimum amount of available tools: a construction knife, tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

• a flexible surface involves finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
• It is problematic to attach the material to some surfaces;
• To increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is better known to many as polystyrene foam. The material, easy to use, creates strong heat protection in the room without harming the health of household members. When installed correctly, it fully justifies the cost and retains its quality for a long time.

The advantages are:

• moisture resistance;
• good thermal conductivity;
• light weight, eliminating structural reinforcement;
• easy installation.

Disadvantages include:

• easy flammability;
• instability to ultraviolet rays and solvents;
• low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment to apply a binder to the surface.

Advantages of the material:

• affordable price;
• thermal insulation qualities;
• flammability resistance;
• Easily fills hard-to-reach places;
• safe operation.

Flaws:

• the lack of special equipment precludes independent installation;
• weak resistance to mechanical stress;
• the first 2-3 weeks after installation, a small amount of toxic substance evaporates;
• ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself insulation

If you adhere to the technological process and make the right choice of material, you can easily perform the installation yourself.

Insulating the ceiling indoors using mineral wool

To complete the work you will need the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• metal profiles or wooden blocks 150x30 mm;
• hardware;
• vapor barrier film;
• staples;
• polyurethane foam;
• dowels with a wide head;
• drywall.

Set of tools:

• perforator;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• scissors;
• construction knife.

Installation stages

• On the ceiling, make a sheathing of wooden blocks or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
• Cut the insulation to the size of the sheathing cells with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
• Place mineral wool in cells without compacting it.
• Treat the joints of the insulation with polyurethane foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to shrinkage of the insulation.
• Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, secure the film to the sheathing.
• Finish the ceiling using plasterboard sheets.

Insulating the ceiling in the attic using polystyrene foam

Materials required for installation:

• foam sheets 40 mm thick;
• polyurethane foam;
• OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
• hardware.

Tools:

• drill;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• bench knife;
• screwdriver

Installation stages

• Clear the attic floor of debris. If there are damaged areas or holes, seal them with cement or gypsum mixture.
• Place the foam on the surface, butting it tightly together.
• Treat the connecting seams with polyurethane foam.
• Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic space as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled with a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. The use of reinforcing mesh is mandatory.

• Insulation in the attic using polystyrene foam sheets must be supplemented with finishing in the form of screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is susceptible to mechanical damage, which will affect its functionality.
• Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
• Mineral wool must not be compressed. By losing its structure, it loses its valuable properties.
• Built-in lamps in an insulated ceiling should be mounted with a barrier from the material using plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
• To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a comprehensive manner: polystyrene foam and mineral wool. The insulation layers should resemble brickwork.
• For vapor barrier, use marked film. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
• When using penofol for insulation in the attic, install with the foil facing down.

Many owners of private houses sooner or later face the issue of ceiling insulation, since it is through this structure that up to 40% of the heat in the house can escape. Circulating in the room, the heated air rises to the ceiling and exits. Agree, in winter this circumstance does not please household members at all. You can qualitatively and reliably insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, knowing only some general rules for working with construction equipment.

Ceiling insulation: basic requirements

A harsh winter dictates its own rules, which each of us tries to observe in our own way. Some stock up on heaters, install high-quality windows in their apartments, while others simply buy an extra pair of woolen socks. Owners of private houses have their own problem, the essence of which is additional insulation of the ceiling in order to minimize heat loss.

The ceiling can be insulated from the side of the room and from the attic. For example, if the house has been renovated and the ceiling is decorated with plasterboard, then there is no point in breaking it and it is better to carry out all the work in the attic. In another case, if you are just planning to make suspended ceilings, then the insulating layer needs to be laid in the interceiling space.

Insulating the ceiling in a private house is a rather complicated process and requires special calculations and care. Special materials intended for such construction work must be selected according to the following criteria:

• environmental friendliness;
• high soundproofing qualities;
• having vapor barrier properties;
• fire resistance;
• budget;
• moisture resistance.

Types of insulation

Installing a ceiling in a private house always requires the presence of high-quality, dry wood; the thickness of the timber must be at least 2.5 cm. In this case, lining is well suited.

For ceiling insulation work, you can take several types of materials:

• expanded clay Non-flammable material made from clay. It is lightweight and environmentally friendly, moreover, it is not afraid of moisture and insulates the room well, retaining heat;
• mineral wool is most often used in private homes with wooden ceilings. The thermal insulation properties of this material are simply excellent, but it is very susceptible to moisture;
• ecological wool, which is made from cellulose. It is environmentally friendly and retains heat well in the house;
• polystyrene foam is a lightweight and fire-resistant raw material from the category of polymers. It is not afraid of a humid environment and is very convenient for installation;
• penoizol. Like polystyrene foam, it has a porous structure. Suitable for insulating ceilings and has a very long service life.

Insulating materials can be loose, fibrous and lamellar. When choosing them in a hardware store, you should not only take into account the height of the ceilings in a private house, but also what materials they are made of. The fact is that if you need to insulate the ceiling in a log house, then the technology of work will differ from the same manipulations in a brick building.

Buildings built from wood, brick and foam blocks especially need high-quality insulation. To achieve maximum efficiency of construction work in this area, you need to think through all the nuances to the maximum and find the most suitable option that would meet the quality requirements.

When carrying out work, it is better to use reliable thermal insulation materials that can reduce heat loss in the room, giving owners the opportunity to save on purchasing heaters and enjoy comfort in their home.

As a rule, insulation of ceiling slabs in a private house is done during the construction of a building. Heat-insulating material is placed between the ceiling beams and then sewn up on both sides. It also happens that the ceiling is made and insulated, but not enough to protect the house from severe frosts in winter.

Insulation rules

Thermal insulation of ceilings or other enclosing structures is a very labor-intensive process, but necessary, since the result of quality work is comfortable living conditions in the house with low material costs for heating.

There are several rules that are important to consider when choosing materials and methods of ceiling insulation:

• thermal insulation must be made from environmentally friendly raw materials;
• you need to choose insulation with high fire-resistant properties so that it does not spread fire in the event of a fire;
• insulation that reduces heat loss should not significantly affect the steam circulation processes in the house;
• The insulating material should be protected from moisture.

Installation of insulation

Before insulating the ceiling of a private house, you need to choose the right type of material to use. About 20 years ago, owners used sawdust, hay, slag and expanded clay as ceiling insulation. This method was cheap and of high quality, provided that synthetic heat insulators were very difficult to find.

Conventionally, the materials that will be used to carry out the work are divided into two categories: vapor-tight and vapor-permeable. The main principle that must be followed when choosing insulation is its ability to absorb moisture.

If insulation will be carried out from the attic, then it is better to buy vapor-tight materials. When inside it is vapor permeable.

Let's look at several types of insulation and their characteristics:

1. Sawdust is the most budget-friendly and frequently used solution. When planning to work with this raw material, you should consider the following nuances:

• sawdust ignites easily;
• Often rats and other rodents breed in such insulation.

When creating sawdust insulation, you need to take into account the climatic conditions in which the house is located. The colder the winter, the thicker the layer of sawdust should be.
The sawdust insulation technology consists of the following steps:

• the ceiling is covered with parchment specially designed for this purpose;
• wooden floors are treated with fire retardants;
• prepare the filling from sawdust, cement and water;
• fill in insulation.

To increase the fire safety of sawdust, it must be mixed with gypsum or lime immediately before being added to the cement.

Advantages of insulation:

• relative cheapness;
• reliability and durability;
• ease of operation;
• moisture resistance.

1. Today, ceiling insulation with foam plastic is also in great demand. When installing it, you need to seal the joints well with polyurethane foam, and only if this condition is met can you be sure of the quality of such thermal insulation.

Polystyrene foam has the following distinctive qualities:

• good heat and sound insulation;
• resistance to moisture and fire;
• does not create additional loads on the structure;
• easy to install;
• inexpensive;
• unpretentious to external conditions;
• retains its shape for a long time;
• efficient, practical and durable.

Polystyrene foam is perfectly complemented by mineral wool, and by combining these materials you can create a high-quality heat insulator.
An obvious disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that it is susceptible to damage by rodents.

1. Mineral wool is a good heat insulator, which is often used to insulate the ceiling from the inside of a room in wooden houses. To achieve the best effect, you need to combine mineral wool with polystyrene foam. This combination will help reduce indoor heating costs, saving costs.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• low vapor permeability;
• environmentally friendly material;
• has good fireproof properties;
• resistant to rotting;
• easy to install;
• this material does not harbor rodents and insects;
• Well isolates from noise and extraneous sounds.

In addition to its positive qualities, mineral wool is not without its disadvantages. Among them:

• absorbs moisture and quickly deteriorates;
• over time it cakes and due to this loses its thermal insulation properties;
• requires care during operation, since the slightest damage to the material contributes to the loss of 40% of heat;
• For its finishing, mineral wool requires the purchase of the necessary expensive materials.

1. Foam block has an acceptable cost and good strength, so buildings made from it are of very high quality. This raw material combines the properties of brick and wood, which allows you to create a favorable indoor climate. Ceilings and walls made of foam blocks require additional protection against condensation. Only after applying special products can you work with heat-insulating materials.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house

If you decide to insulate your home from the inside, then give preference to mineral insulation. You can buy rolls or slabs; the external design of the material is not particularly important. This insulation is similar in properties to glass wool, but mineral wool is safer.

The technology for designing an internal ceiling insulation system consists of the following stages:

1. First of all, assemble a frame from wood or metal into which the insulation will be laid. To do this, use a hammer drill and dowels.
2. Lay thermal insulation in the spaces between the profiles. To secure it more securely, use tile adhesive, which will quickly and firmly attach the sheets to the ceiling.
3. Once you are sure that the insulation is holding well, cover the ceiling with plasterboard. In this case, you will need steel screws.
4. The final stage will be finishing work on the ceiling. Treat it with putty or paint it.

At first glance, this simple technology has several nuances that should not be forgotten during the work.
Mineral insulation cannot be compressed to avoid heat loss. You should be aware that it will be more difficult to install spotlights in such a ceiling, since the heating of the lamps may cause the insulation to catch fire. For them you need to create special gaps, and only after that attach the lighting fixtures.

External ceiling insulation with your own hands

When the house has been well renovated, but individual heating is not enough for high-quality heating, you can additionally insulate the ceiling. But in order not to re-lay a new ceiling, it is better to lay thermal insulation from the attic side.

This way you can save on repairs and purchasing a structure for a suspended ceiling. Unlike mineral insulation, which is susceptible to moisture, it is better to purchase polystyrene foam for the attic. This material tolerates any temperature well and is not afraid of a humid environment.

External ceiling insulation is performed in the following sequence:

1. First you need to clear the attic covering of debris and various rubbish. If you have a wooden house, then carefully seal all holes on the surface.
2. Take measurements of the attic space and buy polystyrene foam. Too thick sheets are not needed; it is enough that the minimum thickness of the insulation is 40 mm. You can also use more expensive polystyrene.
3. Cover the entire surface in the attic with polystyrene foam, and fill the resulting cracks with polyurethane foam.
4. If you plan to store things in the attic or make an attic, then fill the insulation with screed, after laying a reinforcing mesh on the foam plastic. Concrete thickness – 5 cm.

Thermal insulation from mineral wool can also be made if you are not considering other insulation options. To do this, you first need to apply glassine or another vapor barrier to the surface of the attic. A sheet of cotton wool is laid on top, which should fit tightly to the previous coating. Any floor covering is laid on top of the mineral insulation. To achieve the maximum effect from the work performed, you can make two layers of insulation.

Features of ceiling insulation in a house with an attic

If your house has an attic, then the space formed between its floor and ceiling can be filled with sand or sawdust mixed with lime. This way you will not only insulate the room, but also soundproof it. In this case, nothing else is needed for insulation.

Recently, fashionable, glossy ceilings have been gaining popularity. The fabric, which is stretched on the ceiling under the influence of hot air and inserted into a special frame, comes in different shades. However, most often people prefer white or pastel colors.

The impeccable appearance of such ceilings transforms even the most ordinary room. In addition, suspended ceilings in a private house play another very important role - heat preservation. If the interior decoration of the house is made of plasterboard, then creating a frame for the ceiling will not take much time. When the walls are decorated with plastic boards, it is better to abandon the suspended ceiling decoration.

It is better to choose a stretch ceiling for a wooden house with a smooth surface, since matte ones will be inappropriate. A glossy ceiling will visually expand the space of the room, and a mirror finish will add volume to the room.

Give preference to pastel colors. Blue, gray and purple shades work with the opposite effect. Due to the fact that the tension fabric is attached to a special frame located at a distance of 7 cm from the ceiling, this allows it to be a good heat insulator. Warm air in the room will circulate without escaping through the ceiling.

Naturally, the cost of tension structures is much higher than, for example, the price of foam plastic or mineral wool. But you will have the opportunity to enjoy the uniqueness of your ceiling and the comfort of a warm room.

Believe me, all the costs of purchasing insulation will definitely pay off over time, not only by reducing heat loss, but also by saving money on the purchase of additional heaters.

How to insulate a ceiling with your own hands. Video