Superbug from an old mobile phone. How to make a bug with your own hands: diagram and detailed description Mobile “GSM bug”: an incredibly simple solution
", and can also be assembled after quite complex structures such as "Wasp" or "Bumblebee". In general, the article is intended for beginner "Bugmakers" who have assembled and launched at least the first beetle. So. I would like to offer you one of the options: transistor bug that has good characteristics compared to conventional circuits. Of course, the circuit is not original and there is nothing unusual in it. And in order to assemble this circuit, you must at least be able to hold a soldering iron in your hands and distinguish a resistor from a transistor. That is, have at least a little work experience with a soldering iron. If something is not clear in the diagram, I strongly recommend that you first assemble the “First Beetle”, and read everything that is written in the first message, including links. It won’t make things worse, but it will increase your knowledge.
So let's return to our beetle.
The bug has the following characteristics:
Supply voltage: 0.8-1.7 V* (One(!) 1.5 V battery)
Sensitivity: 7-10M**
Range: 50-400M***
Current consumption: 1.5-2 mA
Operating frequency: VHF(88-108 MHz) or 180-200 MHz****
Notes:
* The bug is designed to be powered by one battery with a nominal voltage of 1.5V; higher voltage can lead to an uncontrolled increase in current consumption until the transistor fails!
** Sensitivity depends on the microphone used; with a Chinese microphone with a diameter of ~3 mm there are no complaints about the sensitivity; a quiet conversation can be heard well.
*** The range very much depends on the characteristics of the receiving device (receiver) used. On a Chinese two-button scanner it will be about 50M, and on a normal receiver it will be 200M. We managed to get 400M on a receiver based on CXA1691 with no standard circuit inclusions. The frequency was 180 MHz. You won't get this range on the FM band. At the same time, reception on 400M was good, if you don’t take into account that you have to stand in one place, move a little to the left or right and the signal disappears.
**** This article gives two versions of the bug for different frequencies, while the circuit diagram of the device does not differ, only the winding data of the L1 coil changes.
So here it is. Let's take a look at the diagram of this beetle. Here she is.
As you can see, the circuit does not contain complex components or non-standard values. All parts can be easily purchased or removed from unnecessary equipment. To increase efficiency, a choke is included in the emitter circuit of the transistor. With this switching on, the output power of the generator increases and there is no low-frequency feedback. Therefore, the sensitivity of the microphone is comparable to two transistor beetles. It is advisable to select a transistor with the highest hFE, although any high-frequency transistor will do. Right assembled circuit starts working immediately after power is applied. Resistor R1 can be used to select the required current consumption and output power. The connection with the antenna is made small, which somewhat reduces the output power, but increases stability. The beetle is made on a double-sided printed circuit board measuring 20x20mm on which all components are placed. SMD 0805 parts. However, conventional lead elements can also be used. If the board is double-sided, then the second side must be connected to the minus, preferably in several places. I installed the transistor S9018, but you can use SMD. The transistor can be replaced with KT368 or BFR93. I removed the choke from the Chinese scanner receiver. I also recommend that you take it from there. It is advisable to take parts such as according to the diagram, for example, it is not advisable to take 15 pF instead of 12 pF, although it is acceptable. Resistors with a deviation of no more than 10-15%. It is better to collect beetles on SMD. There will be better stability. You can, of course, assemble it on DIP, but it would be desirable to do it good quality, especially capacitors. Do not use red capacitors under any circumstances. Your bug's frequency will fluctuate greatly as the ambient temperature changes when using these capacitors. If you assemble a beetle like this (at the bottom of the page), then don’t be surprised that the beetle does not work, or works poorly.
The coil is wound on a mandrel with a diameter of 3 mm with a 0.5 mm wire and contains 6 turns for the FM range. Then the coil must be stretched as in the photo.
For the range of 180-200 MHz, the coil should be wound with a 0.5 mm wire on a 3 mm mandrel; the coil will contain 3 turns.
PCB drawing:
I cut the board with a regular cutter.
Photos of beetles:
Closer.
Yes, by the way, when using good batteries, the beetle can work stably for about a month. I tested for about a month. Then I just got tired of waiting and I took it off and measured the voltage on the battery - 1.2V. So he could work for another month. At the same time, microphone sensitivity and range remained the same. And the frequency drift was about 150 kHz.
Today I would like to offer another way to increase the sensitivity of the microphone of mobile bugs. A similar article was written earlier, but radio amateurs began to complain that it is very difficult to find mobile phones in which the hands-free function is activated by just pressing one button. For those who do not know what I’m talking about, I advise you to read the previous article about boosting, and those those who have already read - let's continue. So, we take any mobile phone (preferably a cheap one, black and white - they will hold a charge for a long time), disassemble the device, take out everything - the vibration motor, button pads, microphone and speaker, leaving only the screen, but at the end of the work it also needs to be removed.
We take just one diode, a 50-volt polar capacitor of 1-10 microfarads (capacitors with a voltage of 16 or 25 volts are suitable), a low-noise reverse conduction transistor, for example, type KT315, KT3102 or imported S9018, S9014 and a resistor from 1 to 10 kilo-ohms.
We apply solder to the contacts of the green button (answer button), then take the transistor, solder the emitter of the transistor to the minus of the button, and the collector to the plus. We apply solder to the speaker contacts, connect a diode to one of the contacts in the forward direction, solder the minus of the capacitor to the free contact of the speaker, and solder the plus of the capacitor to the free contact of the diode.
Then we solder our resistor to the plus of the capacitor, the second end of which must be soldered to the base of the transistor. Now we put the card in the phone and turn on the device.
When you make a call, the handset rises by itself, if everything works, turn off the mobile phone and remove the card. We desolder the phone microphone, but the microphone has polarity! We remember the polarity of the contacts on the phone, but it’s better to just mark where the minus is and where the input is. Next, we find a microphone from a Chinese tape recorder and assemble the circuit of a simple microphone amplifier, which is shown in the figure. The amplifier may be different, but this one was personally assembled more than once and works perfectly.
The amplifier will be powered separately, to power the amplifier we use another battery from a mobile phone, connect the output capacitor of the microphone amplifier to the input contact on the microphone, connect the minus of the microphone contact to the minus of the microphone amplifier. This way we get very slight distortion, but this is compensated by greater sensitivity - up to 10 meters.
We fix both batteries on the mobile phone board, strengthen the microphone amplifier with insulating tape and silicone, and finally remove the phone display. You can hide it in a cigarette pack, don’t forget to make a small hole for the microphone. Until we meet again - Arthur Kasyan (AKA).
Discuss the article IMPROVING THE SENSITIVITY OF A MOBILE BUG
On the Internet you can find a huge number of radio bug circuits. Some circuits are too complex and require configuration, others include scarce radio components, and still others don’t work at all!
I bring to your attention a diagram of a bug that can be assembled by both an experienced radio amateur and a beginner in this matter.
Let's look at this diagram:
Ignore the dotted line for now.
To make a bug we will need the following parts:
- VT1 - kt315 with any letter index (if you want to increase the range of the bug, it is better to use a microwave transistor, for example kt325 or kt368, the imported transistor s9018 is perfect);
- C1, C4 – 47...68nf;
- C2, C3 – 10pf;
- R1 – 33 kOhm;
- R2 – 100 Ohm;
- Oscillatory circuit L1 - 8 turns of copper wire with a diameter of 0.3...0.5 mm on a rod from a helium pen, wind carefully, turn to turn (I unsoldered the finished coil from a broken radio).
- M1 – electret or condenser microphone.
To save space, I used the right microphone (I found it in an old cell phone). Despite its size, it turned out to be very sensitive.
All parts except the L2 choke and microphone are shown in the following picture:
To make L2 we need a match and very thin wire:
We measure one and a half centimeters of matches, bite them off - this piece will serve as the core of the choke. Next, take the wire and wind one hundred turns. We fix the terminals of the resulting coil, clean it of varnish, and tin it. That's it, throttle L2 is ready!
When all the parts are assembled, you can start making the printed circuit board.
To do this, we need a 35x15mm piece of PCB and the solution itself in which we will etch the board (I used hydrogen peroxide + citric acid). Making a drawing of the printed circuit board (I drew it for the s9018 transistor)
and transfer it to the textolite.
Place the board in the solution and wait until the excess copper disappears.
After the board is etched, we take it out, rinse it with running water, remove the varnish and tin it:
Next, solder the parts in accordance with the diagram. Attention, when installing parts on the board, do not overheat them, otherwise they will fail! Be especially careful when installing VT1.
I want to say a few words about connecting the antenna, the signal is supplied to it from the emitter of the transistor, which makes operating frequency the bug is more stable.
Assembled diagram:
The bug can be powered in the range from 1.5 to 9 volts.
Any of these batteries will be suitable to power the circuit. I used a AAA AA battery to make the bug more compact. You can also use a 3-volt “pill”.
If you will power the circuit from the crown (9 volts), then you should include a 100 Ohm resistor R3 in the circuit.
Carefully solder the battery to the bug. An insulated wire 30 cm long can be used as an antenna, but practice has shown that its absence will not greatly affect the reception range of the circuit. That's it, the bug is ready!
Now turn on the radio and look for the frequency of our bug. The signal from it can be caught at a frequency in the range of 88-108 MHz. For me this frequency was 92.2 MHz. If the bug “does not communicate,” then try moving apart the turns of coil L1 - this should help solve the problem.
With a supply voltage of 1.5 volts, the reception range is 30 meters; if you increase the voltage to 3 volts, the reception range will increase to 100 meters.
This circuit also has another application - an audio transmitter. Let's say you need to output sound from your phone to a tape recorder, but the latter does not have an audio input function. No problem! In this situation, this scheme is very useful. Almost all tape recorders have a radio reception function (FM radio), which is what we will use. Remember the dotted line on the bug diagram? We exclude microphone M1 from the circuit, connect capacitor C5 to a capacity of 10 μF, connect a 3.5mm mini-jack plug to the minus of the capacitor and the minus of the power supply (minus of the jack to the common one, left/right to the minus of the capacitor) and transmit sound from the phone to any radio receiver located within the range of the transmitter! If the parts are installed correctly, the circuit begins to work immediately.
These products can be used for a variety of purposes: from indoor listening to wireless sound transmission.
And this is where my article comes to an end, good luck to everyone in repeating!