Ship modeling drawings of ships for beginners. Drawings of plywood ships: materials, preparation for work, cutting and assembling parts, final finishing

I have put together a short photo report on the ship's hull plating. This article presents photographs of a model of the ship Resolution built in 1772, one of Captain Cook's ships that participated in his second and third expeditions. Model scale 1:48. You will notice that the frame of this model is not solid as it is completely paneled except for small plot from the side of the backboard. The principles of hull plating are the same regardless of the frame design. However, a continuous surface formed by frames tightly adjacent to each other is easier to sheath.

Rice. 1. Frame design.

The first step in the cladding process is defining the geolines. The practice of building full-scale ships at this stage involves dividing the hull into equal sections using wooden slats. When building models, the use of marking strips is also often recommended. However, in my opinion, geolines can be determined using a black thread secured with drops of diluted PVA.
In the photo, the first one installed is Maine Wels velvet, which defines the upper limit of the lining of the lower part of the hull. Here the lower part of the body is divided into four zones. Each zone consists (in this case) of five sheathing belts.
I'm breaking the perimeter cross section(the length of the side of the frame from the keel to the installed velvet) into four equal sections using marked paper strips. This way I determine the approximate geolines of the cladding. The next step is to adjust the threads so that the geoline curves appear straight when viewed from several different angles.
In the case of this particular hull, which has a blunt bow, I extend two loss belts far forward, mounted directly under the Main Wels velhout. In the aft part, with careful planning, installation of a loss is not required. Most hulls have one loss belt in the bow and one in the stern. There are two types of lost belts: in one case, two belts merge into one, or three into two; in the other, it’s the other way around: one belt expands into two, two into three.

Rice. 2. Examples of lost belts:
a) bow: two in one;
b) bow: three to two;
c) aft: one to two;
d) aft: two to three

Installing a stern-mounted wastage belt can often be avoided through careful planning.
Pay attention to the uppermost belt under the stern end of the Maine Wels Barhout (see Fig. 1.). You will need to install a small piece of lath, or two pieces, to cover the triangular hole at the outer corner of the screw. These sections will be installed parallel to the skin of the lower part of the hull.
The following photo shows another view of the model at the stage of defining geolines. Some minor adjustments to the threads in the bow are still required here. None of the chords should taper towards the stem tongue by more than half its greatest width. In the uppermost zone, it is planned to install loss belts that will help avoid this problem.

Rice. 3. View of the model at the stage of determining geolines.

The photo below shows the first two zones installed and secured with dowels. The point of this photo is to demonstrate the bow end of the first, tongue-and-groove belt (closest to the keel). It should not be carried into the stem tongue, but only into the keel tongue - a common mistake for beginners.

Rice. 4. The first two of four zones, installed and secured with dowels.

If the tongue-and-groove belt is set too high, the ends of the remaining slats that go into the tongue-and-groove will bunch up and be too narrow, or you will need too many loss belts at the bow.
You have already understood that in fact each rail must be given the appropriate shape, since it cannot be bent on its edge. Edge bending means lateral transverse bending of the slats. If you try to do this, one edge of the lath will rise above the frames and you will not be able to nail it, its edge in this place will protrude above the rest. To avoid this, it is necessary to provide a template for each batten. This is the sequence of the process of determining the shape of the slats using templates.

The first step is to stick a strip of thick cardboard along the previous belt using tape. Next, I use a ballerina compass with a lock (picture above). The needle is inserted with the opposite end, and the stylus is sharpened very sharply. Set the required compass solution and draw the opposite end of the needle along the edge of the belt. The resulting line corresponds to the shape of the adjacent edge of the new batten.

Rice. 5. Determining the shape of slats using a compass.

Why is it so difficult? The fact is that you cannot push a strip of cardboard under an already glued strip to remove its profile. That's why you have to lay the strip not under, but near the trim strip and use a compass to copy its profile onto the cardboard.

Next, place the cardboard strip on the cutting surface and run a very sharp blade along the pencil line. This can be done by hand, or (very carefully!) using appropriate patterns as guides.

Rice. 6. Cut out the edge of the rail on the template.

Now you can use a template cut out of cardboard to transfer the outline onto the slats blank. This way we get the exact profile of one of the edges of the new rail.

Rice. 7. Determining the width of this rail at its different points.

The next step is to determine the width of this rail at its different points.
Take a new cardboard strip and secure it as shown in the photo above. Mark the distance from the previous belt to the thread of the sheathing area you are working on. Now place this strip on a piece of paper marked with lines radiating from the center (photo below). In the photo, the first belt out of five has already been installed in this area, so four more belts need to be placed in the remaining space. Move the strip until there are four spaces between the tip and the mark. Mark these intervals on a piece of cardboard. Essentially, we have divided the marked segment into four equal parts. No more.

Rice. 8. Place this strip on a piece of paper marked with lines radiating from the center.

Apply the strip to the surface of the frame again. Now you can see how the four remaining belts of this zone will be located.

Using the marked strip you can transfer the width of the new batten at this point onto the blank, which you mark as shown in the figure below. Repeat this procedure along the entire length of the plank as many times as necessary.

Rice. 9. Transfer the width of the new rail at this point to the blank.

Now the points can be connected using a pattern to complete the outline of the strip along which it can be cut:

Rice. 10. The dots can be connected using a pattern.

You see two identical slats: the lower one has been carefully shaped into the desired shape using steam. You can bend the rail in two planes, but not in three. Please note that the adjustable edge is cut almost along the drawn line, and the “far” edge is cut with a margin of 0.5 - 0.8 mm, leaving the opportunity to adjust the rail.

Rice. 11. Two identical slats: the lower one is carefully given the desired shape using steam.

Rice. 12. The rail is glued in place.

In this photo, the butting edge of the batten has been sanded, the end going into the tongue has been cut at an angle, and the batten has been glued into place. At careful preparation No pressure is required on the slats, and the use of clamps is not necessary. Note the small piece of lath glued under the rear end. This provides support for the subsequent slats of this belt, since the end is between the frames. If frames form a continuous surface, such measures are not required.

Rice. 13. The belt is already completed.

In this photo the belt is already completed. After all the belt slats are in place, width marks are applied again at certain intervals and the belt is sanded to the desired width. Inspecting the belt from the stern and bow will reveal any "waviness" that can be removed before installing the next belt.

Rice. 14. Expanding waistbands.

This photo of the stern shows the flared waistbands. No loss installation required. The lower five chords are secured with dowels and exactly repeat the plating belts of a real ship.

Early stage of cladding. The tongue and groove chord and four chords forming the first sheathing zone have been completed.

Another photo at a later stage of the planking. The holes in the keel are for stand screws.

Some people have a strange, but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called assembling ship models from wood. What do you need to make one like this? beautiful thing. Creating a wooden model is not so easy. From this article you will learn how to create one out of wood with your own hands. We will also take a short excursion into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name of the “Iron Pirate”; his homeland was England. He became the captain of a sailing ship at just 16 years of age. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really exploded when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Hind

At the moment of dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived on his property. His main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck, three-masted ship. There were 20 artillery weapons on board. All kinds sea ​​stories It’s quite rare that they tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the Pelican that, by the will of fate, such a story happened. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian this name sounds like "Golden Hind"). It was under this second name that he was inscribed in sparkling golden letters in the world history of seafarers. Francis Drake performed quite a few breathtaking deeds on it, which were later recounted in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many people assemble wooden ship models with their own hands. Drawings of many similar designs can often be found on the Internet. So, inspired by the ancient history of navigation, we will learn from this article information on how to do something similar.

DIY wooden ship model: from beginning to rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several characteristics. A miniature shipbuilding enthusiast may need to be able to modify available materials. It is also important to expand the choice of modeling objects. Once it has developed enough, then it can have mass production of models. The next stage will be the development of bench exhibition modeling from the kits that he already has. Subsequently, it can develop to the formation of individual segments. It could be anything - from ship models and even to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all kinds of other cars.

DIY wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's start creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated wooden ship models is not the easiest task. You will need many tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a block (and, if necessary, a saw), thin cloth, superglue, a long wooden spike, a rope, a drill. In addition to this, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who create prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

Carving of a ship from wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You should file everything plus remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you much time - just two minutes. In these two minutes, the pre-processed block will later become a boat. Now you need to clean the block. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the block itself directly towards the tool. Let's take the standard design as an example for our small ship models, which we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on a block. After this, process the block with a sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of about 10 degrees. When planing, keep in mind that this is not the easiest job, so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to correct everything. Remove the chips layer by layer, while you should try and process the original block as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top and bottom must be parallel.

Please note that you don't have to throw away the shavings at all. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as an additional material as mulch.

Carving of the front and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, and also the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order to get the bow of the ship, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you should round off the cut using a knife. When you make the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should be directed towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have several spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes; they should be slightly larger in size than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may end up with a crack. And because of a crack, as we know, a serious disaster can occur - a leak. Don't use glue! If you do this, then further work will be much more difficult.

Installing sails on the model

First, decide how many panels you want to have on your final ship. Let's take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take several wooden spiers and cut them. Cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them together. Make notches on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with a corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat the same for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle one, and then the bow one.

Now let's start installing the upper flying sail. Cut out a kite shape from fabric. Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the panel. Leave ends on both sides for all corners. Glue a small piece of thread exactly on top part boat It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. Measure from the opposite corner to the middle of the lower branch of the sail on the front mast. Then cut off the thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

You should leave a few threads on each side. Pull them back and glue them straight inside the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Create and attach the back panel in the same way. It should be attached to the back of the rear sail. Measure, cut, and make sure it fits the two tabs. Then glue them in the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make simple wooden ship models. And although everything is described in this article only in general terms, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a “shipbuilder”. If, of course, you are interested in this. Believe me, this is a worthwhile activity!

Ship modeling is one of the technical sports. Well-organized work in a circle allows children to develop a love of work, educate them in the spirit of collectivism, instills determination, attentiveness, develops independence, creative design thinking, and helps them master various work skills. By engaging in ship modeling, students consolidate and deepen the knowledge acquired in physics, mathematics, and drawing lessons, and learn to apply them in practice. Thus, ship modeling helps expand the polytechnic horizons of students.

Ship modeling classes in a circle are one of the forms of disseminating knowledge on the basics of maritime affairs among students and cultivating their interest in maritime specialties. This is very important, since our country is a maritime power.

The civil and navy, having ships at their disposal, need highly educated, skilled and knowledgeable specialists in maritime affairs.

Work practice shows that the knowledge and skills acquired in the circle greatly help children during their service in the navy; many members of the circle are given guidance in choosing a profession.

The main form of summing up the work of the circle is the participation of its members in public events: competitions, exhibitions, demonstrations, etc.

One of the features of the circles working today is that the material base is close to zero and the models made by the guys are mostly simple. Therefore, competitions in clubs of the first and second years of study are not final in nature, but serve as one of the forms of conducting classes.

(Quote from a forgotten source).

What are these simplest models for first-year study circle students?

The development was based on an article in the magazine "Modeler-Constructor".

Have you ever built a yacht before?

But it’s not difficult at all! Let's try to build it together. Just carefully read everything that is written here, and take your time when you start working.

Just like in a real shipyard, our first task is to select the material. To build a yacht, you and I will need: a 10-30mm thick board for the hull, 4mm plywood for the keel, deckhouse and keel block, a 6x6mm batten for the mast and keel block, film for the sails, thread, a pair of stationery pins, a small piece of sandpaper, glue PVA, narrow tape, gouache or tempera paint, PF parquet varnish, Oracal film for the waterline and numbers. You also need the simplest tool: a jigsaw with files, a sharp knife with a retractable blade, pliers, a brush and scissors.

Now let's get to work. First, we cut out the deck (hull), parts of the keel block (stand), deckhouse and keel with an allowance of 1-2mm. Using a sander (a block with sandpaper), remove the allowance so that the lines of the parts remain. Using a knife from the underside of the deck, select a groove 3-4mm deep for the keel. Take the mast blank and use a sander to round off the edges. We drilled a hole in the deck for the mast. Glue the mast and keel to the deck at exactly right angles. Glue the cutting. Glue the keel block. Coat the model and stand with varnish 1-2 times and dry thoroughly. Lightly sand surfaces to remove lint. Paint the model and varnish again. Each layer of paint and varnish must be thin, without smudges and completely dry. According to the drawing, secure it with pins on the deck. Now pull the forestay strings and attach the sails (mainsail and staysail) to them with narrow strips of tape. Glue the waterline and numbers.
That's all. Now the model can be run.

I bring to your attention contour models of rubber-powered ships. The models are simple in design, very technologically advanced in production and are distinguished by high driving performance. The development was based on kits previously produced by the USSR DOSAAF system.

Sets of materials produced in the old days of the preschool educational institution "Fregat" for the construction of contour ship models were intended for children's technical creativity and were designed for children of secondary school age with initial modeling experience. The set consisted of parts, blanks and materials from which you can build a working sports boat model.

The model can be used to participate in ship modeling competitions of various ranks, as well as to organize leisure time for fans of this sport.

When starting to build a sports model, carefully read the description, drawing and assembly diagrams.

While working, strictly follow the safety rules!

Using a jigsaw, we cut out the body of the model from a plank 10-20 mm thick. When sawing, a small allowance is left, which is sanded off with a file and a “grinder”. Remove the allowance so that the contour lines remain. Sand all edges thoroughly.

Using a jigsaw, we cut out the outline of the model from plywood 3-4 mm thick and process it in the same way. Using a sharp knife, select a 4 mm deep groove in the body and glue the outline into it. On the bottom of the model, glue a keel 15-20 mm high from the contour material.

Coat the contour and body of the model with varnish and dry thoroughly. Lightly sand the model to remove lint.

The propeller shaft bracket and rudder are cut out of sheet metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm. The casing is a metal tube of suitable diameter. The bow bracket is a self-tapping screw. Shaft - screw with M3 thread. The ring on the shaft is bent from a paper clip.

Bend the propeller shaft bracket and solder the casing to it. Secure the bracket to the bottom of the model with self-tapping screws. Solder the ring for the rubber motor to the shaft. Insert the propeller shaft into the housing and place the washer on the shaft. Clamp the propeller between two nuts on the propeller shaft. Secure the nose bracket (self-tapping screw). Secure the steering wheel with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the model. Make sure that both brackets and the steering wheel are located strictly along the centerline of the model. Bend the propeller blades to one side at an angle of 20-30 degrees. Make sure that the propeller blades do not touch the rudder and the hull of the model.

Paint the assembled model with TEMPERA paints and cover it with parquet varnish. Each layer of paint and varnish must be thin, without smudges and completely dry.

Cut out the waterline from Oracal and stick it on.

Lay the rubber thread in a straight line on the table plane. Use a ruler to measure the distance between the bow bracket and the ring on the propeller shaft. After measuring five distances on the rubber thread, cut off the rubber motor blank. Tie the ends of the segment together with a tight double knot. Thread the resulting loop into the ring on the propeller shaft to the middle, and both ends of the loop onto a paper clip and then onto the bow bracket.

A correctly built and adjusted model should cover a distance of 8-10 meters. By increasing the number of threads and the length of the rubber motor, the distance traveled by the model will increase. It is better to start the rubber motor with two people as follows. Remove the end of the rubber motor from the nose bracket, put the end of the rubber motor on the wire hook inserted into the drill. Pull out the rubber motor so that its length is 1.5-2 times longer. Keeping the rubber motor taut and not allowing the propeller shaft to rotate, make 100 revolutions with the drill, gradually shortening the length of the rubber motor. After winding, put the end of the rubber motor on the bow bracket and, holding the propeller with your hand, place the model on the water. Release the propeller and launch the model. If the model does not walk straight, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction to which the model is turning.

Only run the model under adult supervision.

When starting the model, do not touch the rotating propeller.

Do not run the model in a human bathing area. While in the water area, follow the rules for being on the water.

The body of the model is planed from a 20mm thick board. Keel - strip dimensions 500x20x5mm. On the deck it is necessary to mark with a pencil the places where the parts will be installed. Achieve symmetry of the markings when viewed from above. The breakwater and side are made of veneer, cardboard or thin plywood. Cargo deck fencing - slats with a section of 10x3mm. The cockpit, wheelhouse, engine room and fuel tank are solid blocks (a cardboard version is possible). Guy rod, whip antenna and flag rod - wire with a diameter of 2 mm (these parts are glued into the pre-installed drilled holes only on epoxy). The exhaust pipe is a tube with an outer diameter of 3mm. Fuel tank neck - aluminum rivet. The base of the bollards is a rail with dimensions 10x8x1mm, the heads of the bollards are screws of a suitable size with slots filled with epoxy. The wooden parts are glued with good PVA glue. All seams and cracks between parts are filled with epoxy resin. Sand the entire model thoroughly with sandpaper. Coat the model 3-5 times with parquet varnish, drying each layer. Lightly sand the model to remove lint.

Paint the assembled model with TEMPERA. Each layer of paint and varnish must be thin, without smudges and completely dry.

We obtain the porthole rings by winding aluminum wire onto a drill of a suitable diameter. Porthole glass, waterline and flag - ORACAL.

The chassis in design and installation methods is identical to that used in the construction of contour ship models with rubber motors.

Since the center of mass of the model is shifted to the stern, it is necessary to place the cargo on the cargo deck closer to the bow of the model. This will eliminate the trim of the model. But what kind of cargo and what mass is up to the master shipbuilder himself to decide.

It should be noted that the model can be built with either a rubber motor or an electric motor.

The development was based on an article in the magazine "Model Designer" No. 5 - 1970

This model of a submarine can be built in two or three classes in a circle, and then launched all summer. By making several of these boats, you will be able to hold a number of interesting competitions.

“Rusalka” - that’s what we called this model - is equipped with one or two rubber engines open type, that is, located outside. A boat with one engine is easier to manufacture, with two it is more difficult, but it sails better on a given course.

The body of the model can be made of dry spruce or pine boards 30 mm thick. Attach a 4 mm thick metal rod (ballast keel) to the bottom of it. Place a lead weight on it, the weight of which must be selected experimentally after all the mechanisms are installed in place and the body is finished, painted and varnished. A hook for the rubber motor is embedded in the front pylon, and a hole for the propeller shaft is drilled in the rear pylon. The undercarriage parts are similar to those on contour ship models.

Horizontal handlebars are cut out of galvanized metal 0.5 mm thick and fastened in pairs with self-tapping screws in the places indicated in the drawing. The vertical rudder is mounted on the rear pylon in the same way. Having completed all these operations, the boat hull is carefully painted and varnished.

When the paint and varnish have dried well, you can launch the “Mermaid” into the water. First, a weight of the required weight is selected. By gradually adding pieces of lead, you need to ensure that the boat (with a rubber motor!) floats on an even keel, plunging to the waterline. To do this, the load will have to be moved along the pin in one direction or another.

Having found the correct position of the weight, secure it with glue, start the rubber motor and try to start the Mermaid. It is very possible that she will not want to dive on the first voyage. Then use pliers to bend the rear edge of the front horizontal rudders slightly up and repeat the start. If this is not enough, slightly move the adjusting weight forward along the pin (do not forget to secure it again in the new position!).

A correctly adjusted model should dive, swim several meters underwater and, after spinning the rubber motor, rise to the surface.

“Rusalka”, equipped with one rubber motor, will turn to the side - due to the reaction of the propeller. To prevent this from happening, bend the vertical steering wheel slightly in the opposite direction.

With two rubber motors and propellers rotating in different directions, the submarine will not turn around. In addition, a twin-engine boat will have significantly greater speed and range.
We recommend!

Pavel comments:

Of course, everything is well described, screenshots of 3D models of ships broken down by materials and photographs of the finished ones... And where did the drawings and files of the 3D models go???

. (From simple to complex). -M.: "Crystal", 1998. - 208 p.

For model making enthusiasts, sheets of pressed and glued wood veneer have always been one of the most sought after materials. They are easy to cut, perfectly processed, drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the Internet, and therefore it is with plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with modeling various ships.

Making models with your own hands is a very difficult task, requiring a significant amount of knowledge and a certain skill. In this article we will only talk about the most basic techniques, and you will hone further skills yourself.

Materials for work

If you want to make a small model of a ship, then you will need the following materials:

• Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and non-fibrous. Wood blanks must be smooth, without knots or damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck) and for fine detailing.
• Plywood is perhaps the most popular material. For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since these are the types of wood that provide the minimum number of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood, as a rule, has a thickness of 0.8 to 2 mm.

Note! Sheets of beech veneer of thin thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much easier.

• Veneer – thin plates natural wood expensive breeds. As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting surfaces from inexpensive material.
• Fastening elements - thin chains, laces, threads, brass and copper nails.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made from metal casting. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparing for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

• First we need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with shipbuilding art, we recommend downloading drawings of a ship made from plywood online: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even to a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a ship from ready-made parts. Beginners will be interested in such kits (although the price of most of them is quite significant), but it is still better to master the technology from the basics.

• After analyzing the drawing, we check whether everything necessary is available. In principle, if something is missing, you can buy more a little later, because building a ship (even a miniature one) is not a quick task!

• After printing the drawing, we make templates for the main parts.
• We transfer the templates to .

Cutting out and assembling parts

You can cut blanks using either a manual or an electric jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you will have less trouble cutting out small parts:

• We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
• We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
• We process the sawn workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing the inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. This way we will spend significantly less time, and the work will move faster.

When everything is ready, we begin assembling our ship.

• First, we put transverse frames on the longitudinal beam - the keel. At the bottom of each frame there is usually a groove for fastening to the plywood keel.
• For joining, you can use standard glue, or you can use special adhesive mixtures intended for ship modeling.
• We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. U simple models the deck is a single sheet of plywood, and for complex ones it can be multi-level.
• After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, since only in this case we will be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
• For bending, you can heat and humidify. After this, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The body can be covered with a continuous sheet for painting. But to imitate plank cladding, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).

• We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave it to dry.

Final finishing

By and large, this is where carpentry ends and art begins.

When the body is assembled and dried, we need:

• Make from thin plywood and secure deck superstructures.

• Extend the sides so that they protrude above the plane of the deck.
• Cover the surface of the deck with wooden veneer or outline it with an awl, imitating plank cladding.
• Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
• Secure the masts with all additional devices (the so-called spar), install the sails and stretch this entire structure using rigging threads.

Finally, all plywood parts must be treated with stain and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Conclusion

Almost anyone can make a simple plywood boat with their own hands - just patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you will have to work hard. That's why we recommend starting with the simplest models and gradually increasing your skill!

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

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