DIY clamps and screw clamps. DIY welding clamp options

Beginning craftsmen, perhaps, at the first stage of their work, make do with only two tools: a hammer and a hacksaw. But as you gain experience, their number no longer becomes enough. You always need to glue two parts together and secure something in a vice or clamps. Making a clamp with your own hands is very easy and simple.

Using the tool, types and its design

There are no clamps that would one hundred percent meet our needs when carrying out work around the house. Clamps come in different shapes, models and sizes. As a rule, there are not enough of them. Below is a short list of devices for solving assigned tasks in wood and metal processing:

• wooden;
• metal;
• F-shaped;
• C-shaped;
• corner;
• cam;
• G-shaped;
• wire clamps;
• ribbon clips.

Making a clamp yourself is quite simple. Of course, when carrying out work, this is not a tool that is constantly needed. But it doesn't hurt to always have it on hand.

Wooden clamp for screed

One of the most accessible and inexpensive to produce examples for self-made. It is easy to do and easy to use. For its production, maple or pine planks are taken. Their minimum width can be 5 cm, thickness not less than 0.6 cm. A metal rod with four nuts is used as a lock. To make a handle you will need any wood hardwood, having no visible external defects. The moving part is completely dried and can easily be moved along the metal rod.

At the ends of the rod there are two nuts that are tightened to prevent divergence. You can use a simple locking nut, as well as the original nut with a stationary lock. Additionally, two more nuts and washers are screwed on both sides. These nuts lock each other. Be sure to leave an opening for the rotating pin.

Wooden and steel clamp

It is also shaped like the letter F. Its key difference is the use of metal parts. The durability and strength of the metal plays an important role in this case. Most the hard part is the plate itself, into which the strip will be inserted in the future. Several holes need to be drilled. When finished, you can clean the metal using a grinder. The plate must move easily on this plate. A gap is drilled at the opposite end of the plate, which should match the thread of the screw stud.

The end should be made at an angle to fully match the cutouts. This is done easily by grinding on a machine. How to make the remaining parts was discussed above.

DIY F-shaped clamp

It is made from both wood and metal. It is shaped like a caliper. It is made from durable wood or plywood sheets. You need to cut recesses on the rail to fix the movable device itself. Typically a worm system for moving the bar is used. The parts are secured with a holder, which is secured with a few turns of the nut. When the holder is released, the part is easily removed from the clamp.

The principle of operation of the clamp

When a specialist works with wooden and metal workpieces and needs to fix the product for precise processing. This can be done using clamps.
Ancient models allowed it to be fixed with one hand, modern models frees both hands of the master. Not only are they quick-release, but at the same time they allow you to use both hands. The following types of clamps are known:

1. Assembly.
2. Manual.
3. Angular.
4. Screw.
5. Lever.

Lever clamps are based not only on the worm-screw principle of operation, but also on the lever mechanism. They are also called clamps. They make it possible to accurately and instantly fix the part. The use of enormous force is not required here; all the main work is done by levers. Such clamps have very simple design, so you can make them yourself at home. This principle of operation allows not only to fasten the part, but also to calculate the compressive force. This is important, for example, when gluing.
Other types of clamps differ only in the method of fastening the parts.

We make carpentry clamps

When working with wood, you often have to fix it, so you can’t do without a carpenter’s clamp. You will definitely need it when you just need to fasten boards or glue together pieces of wood or sheets of trees.
Undoubtedly, such models are commercially available. But they are made from softer alloys, so manufacturers reduce the cost of goods. And they don't always fit in size. A DIY clamp is the best option.
There are a huge number of modifications of clamps on the market. Some of them can be universal, and some are completely disposable and they are made for one technical operation. You just need to understand the principle of operation, then making any option with your own hands will not be difficult. There are no manufacturing standards.

The simplest option is from a hacksaw for metal. She gets ready quickly. But its use is limited. Although this functionality is sufficient for working with small objects.

The fastening elements are bolts, at one end of which there is a nut, at the other end there may be a removable handle or an open-end wrench.

Since the frame can be adjusted in length, this will allow you to work with workpieces of different widths. Mainly used for gluing parts. It will not be possible to attach it to the table, since the design does not allow it. But if there are no other suitable tools, then this option will come in handy as always.

Manufacturing of bench clamps

Locksmith work in an unequipped room always has one constant problem that locksmiths have to face, this is the fastening of workpieces. It is impossible to exclude movement of the workpiece on the table if the table is not equipped with fasteners. One of these affordable and very simple means is a DIY bench clamp.

In order to make a clamp with your own hands, you need to have minimal skills in plumbing. For its production, wood, studs, rolled metal, pipes, and wooden beams are used. It also wouldn't hurt to have a welding machine. The most important thing when carrying out any work is to follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.

Consider the option of making a clamp from wood. You can choose the size yourself, which one is most suitable for the type of work. The end result should be a screw type clamp.

1. Transfer the templates of wooden blanks to a sheet of cardboard. The sizes are selected independently.
2. Next, transfer the blank templates to wooden board. A variety of hardwood is ideal for these purposes.
3. The part is cut out using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The contour of the part is processed with a file and sanding paper.
4. In the center of the workpiece, mark the location for the hole. The bolt axis will pass through it. The hole in the upper part of the fixing jaw is widened with a round file to dimensions 1.5 or 2.5 times wider than the size of the bolt itself.
5. Drill a hole in the handle for the nut. The diameter must match the number of the wrench. Use a rasp or file to shape the hole into a hexagon. We seat the nut in the hole with epoxy resin and, alternatively, any other solid adhesive.
6. The clamp is assembled, the bolt is secured with glue in the lower part of the fixing jaw. Loops are attached at the back to open the fastening jaws. Place the upper jaw on the bolt and tighten it with a handle.

In fact, there are a large number of examples for making clamps at home. For these purposes, for example, it is possible to remake metalworking hacksaws.

Making a clothespin clamp

One of the simplest and most popular clamps is the clothespin clamp. Making a clamp with your own hands is very simple. The principle of operation of such a clamp is similar to the principle of a clothespin. Only the sizes here will be larger.

First you need to cut out blanks from plywood. In total you need to prepare 10 such parts. Five out of ten should have a rounded bulge in the center. The length of each jaw of the holder is 15 cm.

It should be noted that if more is needed large model, then you need to use stronger and thicker plywood.

We begin to glue the profiles of the blanks one by one. First there should be a profile with a convexity. There should be two such clamps. We connect them together so that the ridges fit into the grooves.

If everything is done correctly, such a clip will be movable and work like a clothespin. We wrap an elastic band around a clamp. That's all, the DIY clamp is ready.

How to choose a clamp when purchasing

The clamp is a fairly simple device and there should be no problems with the choice. The main thing before buying is to check its serviceability so that the body does not have cracks. The screw part should be easy to screw in and out. See how tightly the lips fit. They should be even. If the kit includes rubber gaskets, try them out. They are needed in order not to leave marks on soft materials during fastening. The device must also be lightweight and durable.

Carrying out plumbing or carpentry work in places not equipped for this purpose is inevitably associated with the problem of securing workpieces. It is very difficult to prevent them from moving around the table or workbench during processing if they are not equipped with special clamps, a vice or other fixing devices. One such device, simple, affordable and versatile, is clamps. We will tell you what they are and how they are used, and also give detailed instructions on how to make reliable clamps with your own hands.

What is a tool needed for, its design and types of tools

The clamp is an additional carpentry tool. The main purpose of clamps is to fix a workpiece on a support surface or several workpieces for gluing them together; therefore, the design of the tool must include at least two elements: a support surface and a movable jaw equipped with a fixation mechanism. The movable jaw is usually moved using a screw or lever, which allows for increased compression and prevents backlash during operation. Depending on the specialization and design features, the following types of clamps are distinguished:

1. Screw G-shaped ones are the most common, characterized by their simplicity of design and relatively low cost. They are represented by a metal bracket, on one side of which there is a supporting surface, and on the other - a threaded eyelet with an adjusting screw screwed into it. The inner part of the screw is equipped with a working jaw, the outer part with a handle. The tool is effective when working with heavy, large workpieces of simple shape.

   Clamps of this type are suitable for working with large workpieces

2. F-shaped ones are more universal; their supporting surface is fixedly fixed on a long rod along which a working block with a sponge slides. Movement and fixation of the block is ensured by an auxiliary screw or a stepper pressure mechanism.

   Objects are fixed using an auxiliary screw and a stepper mechanism

3. Pipe - allow you to fix large-sized workpieces by varying the length of the pipe. They consist of two separate elements - a base plate with a screw clamp and a jaw that slides along the pipe.

   The clamp is suitable for working with large workpieces

4. Angular - designed to simplify the joining of workpieces at right angles, for which they have two supporting and working surfaces. They are divided into two subspecies. The first involves the presence of two clamping screws located perpendicular to each other; the second is equipped with a single screw with a double-sided corner block at the end. Very rarely there are specialized clamps that allow you to position workpieces at an acute or obtuse angle.

   Clamps of this type simplify joining workpieces at right angles

   Corner clamp with double-sided corner block

5. Tape - equipped with a flexible element and several jaws floating on it. Fixing the jaws in certain places tape and adjusting its tension, you can process workpieces of complex shapes.

   The band clamp is equipped with a band element that allows you to fix the workpiece around the perimeter

6. Pincers - consist of two hinged parts and a spacer spring. In practice, they are rarely used due to the relatively low reliability of the joint, but they provide maximum speed for installing and removing the workpiece.

   This clamp is rarely used due to the low reliability of the joint

At home, the first three types of clamps are most often made, since they are not too demanding on materials and production technologies, and also allow solving most household problems that require the use of auxiliary tools.

You will find even more information about the types of clamps in our next material:

How to make a carpentry clamp with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with drawings

To make clamps at home, it is enough to have basic plumbing and carpentry skills. The materials used are wooden beams, rolled metal, pipes and fasteners, in particular bolts, studs, nuts, pins. To join metal parts of clamps, it is desirable to have an electric welding machine. When performing any work, the main thing is to follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.

Manufacturing of screw type tools

This type of clamp will help to secure wood workpieces well.

A clamp made using this method is perfect for fixing small wooden pieces - plywood, fiberboard, OSB and chipboard sheets, as well as boards and thin beams. We suggest that you choose the scale yourself, but otherwise it is better not to deviate from the following sequence of actions:

1. Transfer the templates of all wooden parts onto thick paper or cardboard in accordance with the selected scale.
2. Using the template, transfer the image onto a board of a suitable width. It is better to use harder wood rather than pine boards.
3. Using a jigsaw, cut out all the parts. Correct the shape with a file and sand the surface with sandpaper.
4. In the “jaws” mark and drill holes for the axial bolt. Lengthen the hole in the upper “jaw” using a round file so that its length is 1.5–2.5 times the diameter of the bolt.
5. Drill a hole in the handle for a nut with a diameter corresponding to the number of the wrench. Using a file, give it a hexagonal shape. Install the nut inside with epoxy or cyanoacrylate glue.
6. Assemble the clamp - fix the axial bolt in the lower “jaw” with glue, install the rear loop on the screws, put on the upper jaw and, placing a washer, install the handle. Apply soft pads to work surfaces.

An even simpler option is to make a screw clamp from a hacksaw.

A simple version of a hacksaw clamp

In this case, it is enough to weld a support pad at one end of its arc, and a nut at the other, into which the adjusting screw with jaw and handle will be installed.

Homemade quick-release clamp made of wood

Making such a clamp will take longer

The use of F-shaped clamps significantly speeds up the work process. But making the clamp itself is somewhat more complicated than creating its screw counterpart. You will need to do the following:

1. Transfer the images onto the lumber as described above. Accurately observe the specified dimensions of the parts and the locations of the pin holes.
2. Cut out the parts with a jigsaw, use it to make a narrow slot in the movable jaw and deep slots for the axial plate. Using chisels, select the groove for the cam lever.
3. Drill holes for the pins. Treat all external and internal surfaces of the parts with a file, and then with sandpaper.
4. Using a grinder, cut out an axial plate from a metal strip and grind it. Drill holes for the pins.
5. Assemble the tool by installing the jaws onto the plate using pins. Insert the cam into the movable jaw. Glue on the working pads.
6. Check the functionality of the quick-release clamp. If necessary, change the shape of the working part of the cam lever.

Rough fixation of the lower jaw on the axial plate can be achieved by wedging its guide pins, inserting an additional pin, using a screw clamp or another method.

Video: making a quick clamp

Metal pipe

To make such a clamp you will need a metal pipe

For such a tool, you will need three metal rings, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the outer diameter of the pipe you have, instead of which, by the way, you can use a metal rod. If you have a welding machine, the process of making a clamp comes down to the following algorithm:

1. Weld support platforms to two rings, which can be made from angle steel; Install a nut on the third ring, and weld the ring itself to the end of the pipe.
2. Weld an improvised handle made of a metal rod to the head of a long bolt, screw the bolt into a ring with a nut.
3. From the free end of the pipe, place the ring of the upper movable jaw on it. Make holes in the lower jaw ring for the fixing pins.
4. Install the lower ring onto the pipe.

A pipe clamp is ideal for holding furniture elements during assembly; it will be convenient in construction and installation work and other similar operations.

Video: homemade pipe-type clamp

Corner

To make this type of clamp, you can use wood, metal or duralumin. They differ from each other not only in material, but also in clamping force and the size of the fixed workpiece. Our next material presents detailed instructions for making tools:

Both in everyday life and in professional activity related to wood and metal processing, clamps will become an indispensable assistant. By following the instructions and having a simple set of materials, you can make this tool yourself.

With its square nest design, making panels is a very common task in carpentry. In fact, trees of such thickness that you can cut out, say, a tabletop from them are not very common and there are not enough of them for everyone. Moreover, wide boards are often specially chopped into small pieces and re-glued. This greatly reduces the likelihood of their warping and cracking in their subsequent furniture form.

The gluing process itself contains a number of important points - thickness, orientation of layers, glue thickness, which will be discussed later, but now we are talking about a mechanism for convenient compression of pre-prepared wooden blanks. This is a specialized clamp - vayma. To glue one board, use at least two clamps.

Here it should be said that there is a way to fasten workpieces with these “teeth”, which allows you to increase the gluing area and, accordingly, its strength. Practice, however, shows that since the use of “samovar” wood glue from dry tiles, the chemical industry has stepped far forward, and now, any gluing of even ends is stronger than the main wood. In any case, their coniferous varieties, from which shields are usually glued. Therefore, planing is quite enough.

So, the possible options.

Analysis of existing analogues.

The solution is “head-on”. It’s more convenient than gluing it directly on the workbench, but not by much. The only plus is the simplicity of the design. The base, however, must be very rigid, especially for any significant length.

When gluing, additional simple carpentry clamps and an even strip along the width of the shield are required to prevent it from bending under load. However, with infrequent work, the design is quite justified; some complication of the technology can be easily survived.

Symmetrical design. In general, it logically follows from the previous, simple one. The end stops are movably attached to two flat sidewalls. When an axial force is applied, the sidewalls are simultaneously compressed.

Several options for end stops.

The blue version, in addition to painting, is notable for the fact that most of the details are standard - large hardware, a rectangular pipe.

There was even a do-it-yourself construction kit. “Tooths” for stepwise changes in the width of the workpiece will make it easier to push the mechanism onto the workpiece. It is proposed to make the most large and inconvenient parts to store and transport yourself from hard wood. Therefore, the set, presumably, costs a penny.

Practice, however, shows that no matter how careful you are, there will still be glue on the clamps, which can be peeled off from the pieces of iron without damaging them, even using very crude methods, including using an angle grinder. Wooden parts will either have to be protected with rough wooden gaskets, or simply changed frequently. Both are not very convenient.

Homemade metal analogue.

It can be seen that there are no special stop pads here, therefore, in order not to spoil the edges of the future shield with dents, a technological gasket made of wood is placed.

Less obvious clamp design – asymmetrical. The solution is ingenious, simple and elegant.

Our response to Chamberlain.

MASHKOV: Astronauts! Which zappa is here?
BI: There, a rusty nut, dear.
MASHKOV: Everything here is rusty!
BI: And this one is the rustiest.

Kin-dza-dza!

I offer my version of symmetrical clamps. Weims are made without the use of stationary equipment - only with hand tools. Electric welding was used a little, but this was more due to the delight of a neophyte - in those days, he was just mastering the welding inverter and applying the new skill wherever possible.

The materials were only standard hardware and two types of rolled metal – rectangular pipe and strip. Four identical wedges were made, with their help many different blanks were glued together, both of a purely utilitarian nature and for decorative ones.

The size of the clamps is for boards of moderate size, with a maximum width of approximately 700...750 mm, however, you can connect the clamps in pairs and glue large boards in two steps. The length of the shield depends on the number of clamps and, with four pieces, can reach 1...1.5 m. A number of symmetrical holes on the sides of the clamp allows you to easily rearrange its back stop, for comfortable work when tightening narrow shields.

The design of the upper screw clamp is simple and technologically advanced; the materials for it are also standard rolled products and hardware, which is a big advantage in conditions of lack of access to machine tools.

The body of the screw clamp is made from a section of the same rectangular pipe 40x25, inside it there is an M12 extension nut.

The nut is held only by the threaded rod and the walls of the housing; the narrow side of the housing does not allow the nut to turn. When unscrewing the stud, the nut simply falls out of the body. The solution is very repairable - in case of thread damage, the elements are easily replaced with standard inexpensive hardware.

The back stop is also made from a piece of 40x25 mm pipe, held in place by two pairs of earrings. To compensate for the thickness of the “overlap”, two standard M10 washers are placed under one of the pairs, on each side (see photo below).

"Compensation" washers.

What was used for the job?

Tools, equipment.

A set of ordinary plumbing tools, a good vice, a hand-held electric drill. Marking tool - tape measure, square, scriber or alcohol felt-tip pen. For cutting pieces of iron - angle grinder. An electric sharpener will come in handy. Welding was used in some places, but it can be done without it. When working with electric tool, be sure to use safety glasses and headphones.

Materials.

Rectangular pipe 40x25, strip stud with M12 thread, bolts, nuts, M10 washers.

Let's get started. Sidewalls.

We decide on the required number of clamps and purchase the necessary materials.

We cut pieces of a rectangular pipe, mark them, and mark the centers of the holes. If you have a machine, you can drill from one side, right through, but if you work with a hand tool, it is better not to be lazy and additionally mark and drill the reverse side. It is better to drill holes in metal with a relatively large diameter at low speeds. It is convenient to operate the hammer drill in drilling mode; its clamp is equipped with a small three-jaw drill chuck with a simple adapter. Often, such equipment is included in the hammer drill kit. High power and low speeds make working with such a tool very convenient.

After cutting and drilling, do not forget to dull the sharp edges.

We cut, mark, drill. I marked the rounded edges without any fuss - by applying a suitable coin. We grind the edges on a sharpener, dulling the sharp edges. With a magic file, in a vice.

Earring. 8 pcs. Material – strip 20x5 mm.

Screw clamp, back stop.

I cut the threaded rods to the required length and welded a long “connecting” nut to one end.

Sketch of a screw clamp, where: 1,2 – extension nut M12; 3 – body (pipe 40x25 mm); 4 – threaded rod M12.

If there is no access to welding work, the screwed nut can be drilled and a transverse rocker arm with stops can be inserted into it, in the manner of a vice gate. The rest is obvious.

Even simple welding work requires a professional attitude. To obtain connections of the highest possible quality, in most cases it is necessary to use special devices. These include corner clamps for welding, which you can assemble from metal with your own hands. The use of a clamp allows you to reliably fix the workpieces being connected, which speeds up and facilitates the process of obtaining weld seam. For manufacturing you will need a simple set of tools, available materials and ready-made drawings of clamps, in accordance with which the work will be carried out.

A clamp is a kind of corner vice of universal use, used to fix metal workpieces before welding in a convenient position at the required angle. Depending on the method of fastening the part, devices may be used that differ in design, shape and size.

Experienced welders always use several types of clamps, since during the work process there may be a need to connect workpieces of various configurations.

Many models of corner clamps are commercially produced, designed to perform specific jobs. For example, several devices can be used simultaneously to install a pipeline, installing the elements to be welded at angles of 15, 30, 45 or 90 degrees. Without using a clamp, it is difficult to accurately install parts, especially for work that requires high precision.

The design of corner clamps for welding has the following features:

1. The jaws of the clamping elements are thick, which makes it possible to increase the rigidity of the workpiece connection and eliminate bending of the welding seam.
2. The additional use of clamping screws prevents the threaded section of the corner clamp from soldering when molten metal splashes. This helps to increase the service life of welding equipment.
3. When performing electrode welding at a certain angle, the use of a clamp allows you to expand the working area.

The design of the clamp consists of two elements:

• a moving part with a clamping screw designed to regulate the degree of pressing of the workpieces;
• frames

Thanks to the presence of a movable mechanism, corner clamps allow you to reliably fix elements of various sizes, geometric shapes, made of any metal. For ease of work, it is possible to use several corner vices at once. Most commercially produced clamps are designed for use in welding products up to 390 mm thick.

The transmission of force to the clamping planes, and from them to the fixed parts, is carried out using T-shaped handles. The staples, smelted from cast iron, can withstand any temperatures generated during welding.

When choosing a corner clamp, you should first of all focus on the type of work to be done:

• G-shaped fixtures are more suitable for fastening workpieces of small thickness;
• F-clamps, equipped with an adjustable clamping mechanism, are used for processing workpieces of impressive size.

Angle quick-release clamps can be installed in garages, small workshops and workshops on work tables and workbenches with a flat surface.

DIY methods

Factory-produced welding clamps are quite expensive, so it makes sense to make a corner clamp with your own hands. Such a task cannot be called difficult, since for assembly you can use metal elements that have been stored in a garage or shed for years, which would be a pity to throw away. Due to the simplicity of the design, the manufacture of an angle clamp does not require the use of complex tools.

Regardless of the design, the main purpose of the devices is to rigidly clamp workpieces for their subsequent welding or surface fusion. Corner clamps made of plywood allow you to connect both metal parts and wood blanks.

To make your own clamp you will need the following materials:

• a pair of hardwood blocks 25 mm thick;
• a sheet of plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm;
• fastening elements: studs, self-tapping screws;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• drill.

A square with sides measuring 250 or 300 mm is cut out of a plywood sheet, to which bars are attached at right angles.

The angle should be set as accurately as possible, since the correct fastening of the workpieces relative to each other will depend on it in the future.

First, the bars should be glued, wait until the glue sets and countersink with a drill. Self-tapping screws or other fasteners are screwed into the resulting holes. From the center of the pads it is necessary to draw perpendicular lines along which the screw studs will move.

At a distance of 20 mm from the corners, thrust bars are fixed, leaving a small gap between them. Its size should slightly exceed the maximum width of the workpieces to be fixed. It is more convenient to screw in the studs immediately, before attaching the thrust pads.

It is also necessary to prepare movable bars that connect to the pin. When screwed in, its part will move towards the corner block.

When making a corner clamp from a massive material, such as chipboard, a thicker material should be selected for the bars.

Metal construction

First of all, you need to make a drawing or sketch of the corner clamp and decide on the main dimensions.

To make the base you will need sheet material 8–10 mm thick. For fastening, you can use a corner of the appropriate size. It is convenient to connect the elements using electric welding.

1. For a screw clamping mechanism, two nuts are welded together. The bracket with a threaded hole in the central part is made with a height of 30–40 mm. For fastening, it is recommended to use a bolted connection, which can be easily replaced if the thread breaks.
2. The mutual placement of the pressing jaws requires special attention. It is necessary to ideally set a right angle, since when performing welding work it will be impossible to achieve their acceptable quality. First, one corner is welded to the clamp, and another is placed on it. The resulting structure is tightly compressed and welded to the bracket.
3. Guides are attached to the side planes of the clamp to ensure movement of the base. A groove measuring 8–10 mm is cut along the bisector line of the clamping device.

Do you use a clamp at home or at work? Did you make it yourself or buy it ready-made at a hardware store? What difficulties and features of welding did you encounter when using the device? Please share your experience in the comments.

The benefits of such a tool as a clamp are known to all craftsmen. An irreplaceable item for carpentry and plumbing work. Clamps are also often used by welders, builders, car mechanics and home craftsmen.
There are many different designs and sizes of clamps, but basically they are all similar in that they must be tightened by hand - tighten the tightening screw, after which the objects on which the clamp is installed are securely fixed. It should be noted that this is a tedious task, tightening and unscrewing each time a clamp screw to fix or release an object. On the Internet I found a version of a clamp with automatic fixation. Such a clamp does not need to be tightened by hand on the object being fixed. One click on the upper movable stop of the clamp is enough and the object will be securely pulled to the edge of the workbench, for example, a wooden block.

It will also not be difficult to release the block; to do this, you need to press the upper stop again and the “grip” of the clamp will immediately weaken, the block will be freed from the clamp.

How to make such a clamp?

It's not difficult to do. You will need a metal strip and a size 20 profile pipe.

The clamp consists of two stops, a lower fixed one and an upper movable one.

Bottom stop

We vertically weld a profile pipe to a piece of metal strip from one edge. We weld an overlay made from an old flat file onto the strip. This completes the manufacture of the bottom stop.

Upper stop

Making it will be a little more difficult. Cut a strip of the same length as that at the bottom stop. Using a mini drill, we cut a square hole from one edge of the strip section. The size of the hole should be slightly larger than the size of the profile pipe along which this segment (upper stop) will move.

The piece with the square slot must be clamped in a vice and bent slightly from the side of the square hole. This is what it's all about design feature clamps, thanks to which the upper movable stop is fixed on the vertical profile pipe.

We weld the plate crosswise to a piece with a square hole, and drill regular round holes for bolts along the edges of the plate.

We apply the file plate to the plate with round holes. We make marks on the plate along the holes of the plate.

We weld the bolts to the marks (the caps of the bolts should be cut off so that only the thread remains).

The upper support blanks are made, we connect them together. We install springs on the welded bolts, insert the bolts into the holes of the plate, and screw on the wing nuts.

The top stop is assembled.

We connect the lower and upper stops - insert the profile pipe into the square hole of the top stop.

The homemade product is ready to use!

How to use is described at the beginning of the article. This is what the emphasis looks like on a clamped block. It holds quite tightly, you can't loosen it with your hands.

The springs press the upper plate with a square hole from one edge, the plate becomes skewed and locks on a vertical profile pipe. When pressed again, the plate becomes straight and can again be moved along the pipe.

Self-clamping clamp: how to have fun

zen.yandex.ru
A tool for quickly securing objects!
From a steel strip 30 mm wide, we saw off two sections 100 mm long.
At the end of one plate we place a steel square with a wall width of 10 mm. We outline the square with a felt-tip pen. We drill holes in the corners of the outlined square, then use a grinder to cut out straight walls - connecting the drilled holes to each other. As a result, we should get a square-shaped hole into which the tenth square will be inserted.

It is more convenient to saw through the straight walls of the hole with a mini drill with a cutting disc. Then finish it with a flat file.

We clamp the plate with a square hole in a vice (between the jaws of the vice you should clamp exactly the end of the plate in which the hole is).

Now, along the clamped edge of the plate (where the plate protrudes from the jaws of the vice), we bend the plate at a small angle - 10 - 15 degrees.

Insert a steel square into the hole in the plate.

We weld the square to the plate.

We weld an additional overlay cut from a strip of the same size as the plate itself onto the free end of the lower plate.

On another similar overlay, we install a bolt vertically in its center (with the head to the plate), and weld the bolt to the plate.

At the free end of the plate, which is bent at an angle and is the top one, we drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm for a bolt welded with a head to the lining.

We put a compression spring on the bolt, insert the bolt into drilled hole top plate, and screw on the wing nut.

The wing nut is needed for ease of adjustment - spring compression.

The tool is ready!

We ended up with a self-clamping clamp, which does not need to be tightened with a screw, like with conventional clamps.

We place the object to be fixed on the edge of the workbench and install a clamp on it.

Press on the top plate.

The plate with its curved end with a square hole moves downwards along the vertical square.

The second end of the plate with a plate, a bolt and a spring attached to it, on the contrary, pulls the plate up.

Thus, the upper plate is engaged (locked) by a square hole, which is made to skew, on the surface of the square.

The fixed object is securely pressed against the workbench!

To release the object from the clamp (in our example it is a wooden block), just press the edge of the top plate again and lift the plate up square with your other hand.

Quick-release clamp - homemade

In the arsenal of carpenters who perform a large amount of gluing work, there are cabinet clamps such as Bessey KR Revo, GROZ clamps, quick-release or pipe clamps.

It’s difficult to imagine a replacement for a professional carpenter’s clamp, but what to do when you don’t have a clamp at hand, have nowhere to buy it, or can’t order delivery.

A solution to this problem is offered by a Japanese woodworking master and part-time blogger from the YouTube channel. Self-Build. He showed his vision of how to create craft DIY clamps in a new video.

The idea is to use the most ordinary materials for manufacturing: scraps wooden beam various sizes and simple fasteners - such as perforated plates and bolts with nuts. The clamping mechanism of the clamp will securely fix the parts, and at the same time, it can be easily adjusted to different lengths of the workpieces.

How to make a powerful clamp with a quick clamp

A clamp is a fastening device used to hold and secure objects tightly together to prevent any movement when internal pressure is applied. There are many types of clamps available on the market for many different purposes. Some are temporary, used to hold components while securing them together, while others are intended for permanent use.

The floating jaws of the Kant twist clamp remain flat on component surfaces even when they are not parallel. The cantilever design eliminates twisting of standard C-clamps, and the built-in V-block securely holds round workpieces. Get all the benefits of conventional C-clamps and parallel clamps in one metalworking clamp. Kant Twist Clamps are ideal for welding and fabrication.

Kant twist clamps provide the best clamping force and long reach without walking. The sleek design eliminates two of the most annoying aspects of the C-clamp: jaw rotation and country of origin. The Kant swivel clamp has long been a favorite of welders because they won't turn or move as they are tightened.

These types of clamps are easier to use and transport.

Parts used

• Metal plate 6mm thick
• 3/8” bolt (5” long) with nut
• 3 x No. ¼” bolts (2” long) and 8 x No. nuts
• Len bolt (length 1.5")
• 2 ¼ bolts (1/2" long)
• 2 ¼” bolts (3/4” long)
• Round metal piece with a diameter of 22 mm (length 20 mm)
• The same piece with a diameter of 22 mm (length 32 mm)
• M5 hex bolt with threaded end nut (3" length)
• Wooden parts

How to do

First of all, I draw the design of the jaws on a metal plate. After drawing, confirm the drawing is correct by measuring between the points shown above. Some variations are quite acceptable.

I then cut all the pieces out of the metal piece according to the drawing using an angle grinder.

After cutting all the parts (jaws), the next step is to drill holes on these jaws to properly assemble all the cutting jaws.

A 22mm diameter round metal piece is 20mm in diameter and 32mm long. Drill a 5.15mm hole on both pieces of metal and tap the inside of that hole using a set of ¼” tape.

Also drill an 8mm hole on the round face of both round metal pieces and tap this hole using a set of 3/8” tape.

Now the next step is to assemble all the parts as shown in the picture. I also attach wooden rotating clamp pads between the long and short jaws. I painted these wooden rotating clamp blocks in black.

Next step, make the handle of this clamp. This is the last step in making the edging twist clamp. For the handle I used an M5 bolt with a threaded end with a nut (3" long). I attach this bolt to the end of a 3/8” bolt (5” long) as shown in the picture.

The Kant swivel clamp is now ready for use. This clamp is used in both metalworking and woodworking.

advantages

Very durable

Makes reuse much easier

Apply maximum pressure with less effort

Comfortable handle for ease of use

For better understanding, watch the video below.