home Warm floor DIY construction vacuum cleaner. Homemade cyclone-type construction vacuum cleaner Automatic activation of the vacuum cleaner from a power tool diagram

DIY construction vacuum cleaner. Homemade cyclone-type construction vacuum cleaner Automatic activation of the vacuum cleaner from a power tool diagram

The vacuum cleaner is one of the most ingenious inventions. A patent for the invention was received in 1860. It is registered in the name of Daniel Hess, but in reality the vacuum cleaner was created much earlier. Modern vacuum cleaners have long cemented their place in our daily lives. They, like other household devices, are designed to make our lives easier. A vacuum cleaner is similar in design to a regular water pump, only it pumps air rather than water.

To get movement, you need an engine. The vacuum cleaner has a built-in high-speed motor. RPM reaches up to 15,000! (usually 10-12 thousand revolutions per minute). The engine power can reach up to 3 kilowatts. Typically, the average power of a vacuum cleaner motor should be about 2000 - 2500 watts. The power and efficiency of the vacuum cleaner as a whole depends on the power of the engine and the number of revolutions per minute. The engine operating modes are adjusted using a mode switch or a powerful voltage regulator.

The vacuum cleaner also has a built-in filter, which accumulates all the dirt after cleaning the room. For more details, see the structural email. scheme.

For reliable operation of the engine, there is also an interference suppression system, the role of which is played by power chokes. They are designed to smooth out high-frequency network interference and noise. Then the voltage is supplied to the capacitor, which smoothes out voltage surges and only then the voltage is supplied to the engine. The capacitor also provides a smooth start to the vacuum cleaner motor. Schemes of simple motor connections are shown in the figure:

Almost any modern vacuum cleaner must have a special tank in which the vacuum cleaner's network cable is placed; the length of this cable is approximately 3-5 meters.

More expensive modern vacuum cleaners may have an electronic control system, a touch-sensitive power regulator and a motor mode switch. The vacuum cleaner should also be equipped with small wheels for easy operation and movement. The diagram shows: 1 - dust bag, 2 - input filter, 3 - output filter.

Tips for self-repairing a vacuum cleaner. If the vacuum cleaner does not work, you should first check the power outlet. Check the connecting cord and plug. Connect the break point and carefully insulate it. Check the vacuum cleaner switch. If necessary, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and inspect the switch. Clean and bend the contacts or install a new switch. Carefully inspect the contact connections of the electrical circuit, especially the soldering points and the presence of contacts at the junctions of the wires. Check the carbon brushes and motor commutator. If necessary, replace the brushes. Remove the carbon brushes, stretch their springs and install them in their old place. Remove the carbon brushes, wrap cotton wool soaked in alcohol or cologne around the rod and clean the inner surface of the brush holders. After this, install the brushes in place. If the length of the carbon brushes is less than 3 mm, they should be replaced. Clean the engine manifold with a rag soaked in alcohol or cologne. Remove coal dust between the collector plates

el-shema.ru

Synchronized activation of the vacuum cleaner and chip ejector

When working with wood, you cannot do without a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner. If during long-term operation, for example, when working on a thicknesser, circular or milling machine, it is easy to turn on the chip ejector manually, then when turning on a tool for a short time, such as a miter saw, hand-held circular saw, manual frezer, manually turning on and off the vacuum cleaner every time is painfully troublesome. Often, when you get carried away, you forget to either turn it on or off. Therefore, the host of the Do-It-Yourself carpentry video channel decided to make a device that allows you to automatically turn on a chip ejector or vacuum cleaner synchronously when you turn on the tool. Similar to the one that is equipped with some models of industrial construction vacuum cleaners.

I decided to take as a basis such a circuit for synchronous switching, published in the magazine “Radio”. True, there was a mistake in it. The circuit connecting the left terminal of resistor R1 to the cathode of diode VD1 must be broken. Redrawn the diagram more clearly. When you turn on the power tool, current begins to flow through the diodes VD2...VD5.

The voltage falling across them through resistor R1 is applied to the control electrode of the triac and opens it. Through a triac, power supply is supplied to the vacuum cleaner and it turns on. The maximum power of a tool is determined by the maximum permissible current through the diodes, and of a chip blower or vacuum cleaner - by the maximum permissible current through a triac. I chose the parts based on the load of 2 kW.

The triac can withstand a maximum forward current of 12 A, the diodes can be any rectifier, designed for a maximum forward current of at least 6 A and a reverse voltage of at least 200 V. The device is assembled on a printed circuit board made of single-sided foil PCB. On the left is a view of the board from the printed circuit side, and on the right is a diagram of the arrangement of hinged elements on the board. To make the board I took a piece of PCB.

Let's cut out a drawing of the board from paper and paste it onto the PCB. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, we will drill holes for the radio components, and with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm, we will drill mounting holes in the corners of the board. We will make the board mechanically, by cutting insulating grooves between the printed conductors. To do this we will use a cutter. The cutter can be easily made from a piece of hacksaw blade. I haven’t specifically cut the board to size yet, since it’s more convenient to attach and cut through the foil on large sheet textolite. Let's cut the board to size and remove the excess foil with a scalpel. We will sand the board, check the quality of the cut grooves and, if necessary, correct the tracks. Let's cover the contact pads with flux and tin them using shielding braid.

We use rosin dissolved in alcohol as a flux. Let's start installing the parts. According to the wiring diagram, we will insert all the parts into the board and bend the legs on the reverse side so that the parts do not fall out. We cut off the legs with pliers, leaving the length of the curved ends 2...3 mm. Apply flux to the contact pads and solder the parts to the board. Solder the mounting wires and connect the sockets according to the diagram. A vacuum cleaner and tool are connected to the outlet. Let's check the functionality of the device. This is a power outlet.

For clarity, we use a 60 W incandescent lamp as a vacuum cleaner. We plug it into the outlet. The tool we use is a 400 W eccentric sander. We plug in the device. We turn on the machine. Works! Instead of a lamp, we will connect a vacuum cleaner. Its power is 1300 W. We heard it works. The parts are not heating up yet. It is necessary to check for heating during prolonged operation or by connecting a more powerful tool.

Let's determine the minimum power of the tool that can be connected to this device. Let's connect the vacuum cleaner. Instead of a tool, we will connect a 60 W incandescent lamp. We connect the device to the network. Lamp. Runs at full power. Therefore, 60 W is enough for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, the workshop does not have a tool with a power of less than 60 W, for which it is needed. So we can assume that 60 W is the minimum load. Actually, I made a board for synchronous operation of the devices specifically to control the chip ejector for my miter saw. I found an old Soviet “Whirlwind” in a landfill. It is planned to make a chip pump out of it. Let's check if the board works with the unit. Insert the plug from the vacuum cleaner into the outlet. Miter saw. Let's check. The vacuum cleaner is working. It sucks air well. The radiator is cold, but the diodes have warmed up a little... - the power of the saw is considerable - after all, 1800 W. How it is planned to make a chip extractor out of this vacuum cleaner is a subject for a separate discussion.

Such a device turned out. Based on it, we also plan to make a power regulator for our angle grinder. We often use it to clean boards from dirt, cement and sand, as well as to sand logs. 12 thousand revolutions is still too much for purposes.

izobreteniya.net

Vacuum cleaner repair | Electrician

Regardless of the manufacturers and types of vacuum cleaner, the main differences lie in quality, power and design.

The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is the electric motor, which creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks in dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes. different types There are different types of such devices, these filters, and flasks and just bags and cyclone-type vacuum cleaners. But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (revolution) control circuit that requires the greatest attention in this entire device.

Repairing the engine with your own hands is not difficult, if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running, but you can hear the heavy running of the engine (when turning it off) or the engine begins to rumble or hum strongly, sometimes the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.

The heart of a vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the engine and, as a rule, a collector one. What is such an engine? The engine is located in the housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of a tangential type, where air is drawn in in the center and exits through the periphery and out through the rear filter. The brushes in the engine are placed in special shafts made of brass, usually this is ordinary carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes rub against the commutator roller, their center grinds down and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the surface of contact with the commutator pads increases. The brushes in their shafts are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of the graphite, in the process, to the collector. The brush will work until it wears off and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite with the commutator. It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the commutator shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary and remove the oxide layer to a copper shine.

The shaft is attached to the stator with two bearings of different sizes; as a rule, this is done to make it easier to disassemble it. The front one is usually large, and the back one is smaller.

The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tools. Next, we look at the movement of the bearings; due to dusty work, they become clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the boots are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a stream of WD-shki, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with a lubricant like Litol-24 or EP-2, after which the boot is put in place and snapped into its grooves in the bearing itself.

Disassembling the vacuum cleaner

To begin any repairs or preventive maintenance of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the housing. Each model has its own methods. First of all, remove all the filters that make it difficult to access the motor, unscrew the housing screws, including the hidden ones (under the buttons, for example). After unscrewing all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case; if this fails, take a closer look at where else there may be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.

Next, the entire electrical installation is disconnected; as a rule, the connections are made on connectors. The plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the frame, after which the motor is removed from its plastic housing. In some models it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the vacuum cleaner body in special rubber sealing grooves or is screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.

Disassembling the vacuum cleaner motor

To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller, we will first remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, maybe a screwdriver, and carefully bend it from the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then with a gentle movement we pull it out top part casing, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes accessible to us.

The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions). We try to unscrew it by holding the impeller with our hand. If it turns and you can’t unscrew the nut this way, there is one great way. So... we take a good stranded wire with a cross-section of more than 1.5 mm in dense rubber insulation ( to prevent slipping). We insert such a wire and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.

It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector using the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk. The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the armature. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.

After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws; by this time the brushes should already be removed.

If necessary, bearings are removed using available tools or special thread pullers. In particularly severe cases, the bearing may “stick” tightly to the bushing; a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.

The main causes of vacuum cleaner breakdowns

bearings
brushes
fuse
network wire
no contact in the switch
motor windings, winding breakage or burnout (stator or rotor)
capacitor failure
breaking electronic circuit power regulator

A drop in power and suction force. Most often, the cause is either clogged filters or faulty bearings. The filter needs to be cleaned and the operation checked again, also check the operation (draft) of a vacuum cleaner without filters, since it happens that ordinary cleaning of the filter does not help and it needs to be replaced. If the draft without filters does not provide the same working draft, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner; the impeller on it should be easily turned with your finger without special effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the commutator from carbon deposits using fine sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.

In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken; this may be either a violation of the integrity of the hose itself or the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose; the hose simply slips out of them a little.

The vacuum cleaner does not turn on. If everything is normal with the voltage in the outlet, we disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and the power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum at the soldering points. If you have a tester, we call to see if there is a contact. The power button could be broken or the contact is simply broken in it, sometimes it gets clogged, again with the help of a tester we make sure that the button is working properly. If all the elements have been checked by the tester and voltage comes to the motor brushes without any problems, and the brushes themselves are not worn out, then most likely you will face an expensive engine repair or simply replacing it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding it.

If the vacuum cleaner has been running for a long time and does not turn on, then it is quite possible that the protective thermal relay on the engine itself has tripped as a result of overheating - in this case, there is no need to repair anything, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.

The vacuum cleaner engine speed is not regulated. common cause Such a malfunction is a breakdown of the triac in which the voltage through it is not regulated but passes freely through it without any control. It is possible that this element may fail, or perhaps there will be a loss of contact on one of the legs of this element on the board. By slightly pressing down on the speed control knob, you can make sure whether the control itself is working properly or whether the contact in it may be broken and the control slider is not contacting its pad.

The vacuum cleaner emits a foreign smell and hot air. First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the suction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when you plug the inlet with your palm. In case of satisfactory operation of the suction system, we can assume that the motor and most likely the brushes are faulty.

The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles - the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.

The cord does not tighten when you press the button or is constantly tightened during operation - a malfunction of the winding drum, perhaps the spring has burst, weakened or, on the contrary, is too tight. We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, after removing the drum, reel in or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum to what we need.

Electrical circuit of a vacuum cleaner

As a rule, it is not complicated and is quite standard in most models.

Repair of washing vacuum cleaners (Karcher, Zelmer, Bork and others..) is not much different from those described above. Their design includes a pump that supplies water to the hose and a water filter at the inlet. In models of vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter, thin streams of water sometimes break through at the junction of the hose and the body. Sometimes the pump gets clogged, and sometimes the electronics malfunction.

Not every person will be able to fix a vacuum cleaner, even with all the tools. But with this task it will be much easier to diagnose the cause of the malfunction and try to eliminate it, or if the cause is serious, contact the service center already knowing the cause, having the information presented in this article.

elektt.blogspot.com

Vacuum cleaner design: diagram, principles of operation

The design of a vacuum cleaner since its invention (60s of the 19th century) has remained largely the same. At the same time, in the process of improvement, the vacuum cleaner has changed beyond recognition. This applies to both appearance and numerous functionality, And design features device.

Modern vacuum cleaners are so diverse in design that classification based on one criterion will remain incomplete and insufficient.

Main components of vacuum cleaners

Regardless of the type, vacuum cleaners consist of three main parts:

Collection devices. Numerous nozzles act as a device for collecting debris and dust.
Devices for transporting collected waste. They are pipes and hoses or built-in channels.
Housings that house the power unit, dust collector and filtration system.

To expand the scope of use of the vacuum cleaner, various attachments are used to collect debris. Thus, the universal nozzle can be used to care for carpets and rugs, to collect debris and dust from the floor, window sills, top covers cabinets and other flat surfaces. The universal nozzles are equipped with a mode switch for cleaning smooth and fluffy surfaces, rollers that increase maneuverability when working, and brushes with varying degrees of hardness and bristle length.

A turbo brush is used to remove pet hair and fibrous debris from carpets and other soft surfaces.

A cylindrical roller with a bristly structure is rotated by the air flow and effectively collects dirt on its surface. Remove dust settling on surfaces household appliances, leaves ornamental plants, books, chandeliers and lamps, a delicate electrostatic broom with long soft bristles helps on dishes.

Washing vacuum cleaners are equipped with vacuum attachments. Such nozzles provide the supply of water and detergents to the cleaning surface, and also remove the contaminated mixture.

Parquet brushes allow you to carefully care for floor coverings - linoleum, laminate, parquet. The design of crevice nozzles of different sizes and configurations helps in removing debris and dust from hard-to-reach places: the joints of the baseboard with the floor, from under installed furniture.

To collect metal debris and dust, electromagnetic inserts are integrated into the nozzles. Electromagnets attract metal contaminants and hold them until the power is turned off. At the end of cleaning, the electromagnets turn off, and the collected garbage is drawn into the collection by an air flow.

Debris and dust are transported to the dust collector through suction pipes connected to the housing with a flexible corrugated hose. When the vacuum cleaner is configured vertically, the hose is eliminated from the transportation system. In hand-held devices and brush vacuum cleaners transport system These are the channels inside the housing. The devices for transporting garbage and dust of built-in vacuum cleaners are complemented by channels laid in the walls of a house or apartment, to which suction pipes are connected with flexible hoses of the required length.

Vacuum cleaner bodies are made of high-strength plastics.

The following are integrated inside the housing: an air vacuum compressor, an electric motor, a waste collection device, a set of filters, control and alarm units.

Home vacuum cleaner diagram

Classification of vacuum cleaners by type of placement

Modern vacuum cleaners are configured in such a way as to best meet the requirements placed on them. Based on the type of placement, the devices can be divided into the following groups:

floor placement;
hand vacuum cleaners;
vertical placement;
built-in vacuum cleaners.

The most common type of vacuum cleaners can be confidently called floor-mounted devices. The floor vacuum cleaner has a classic layout: the garbage and dust collection device is connected to the body using a telescopic suction pipe and a flexible corrugated hose. Early modifications of vacuum cleaners were equipped with composite pipes, mostly metal, and hoses in dense fabric or synthetic braids. New modifications are equipped with durable plastic pipes and hoses.

The design of the floor-mounted housing includes wheels for easy movement around the serviced premises. The length of the power cord is adjusted by a spiral spring. Floor-mounted vacuum cleaners have large containers for collecting debris and dust, more powerful compressors and electric motors. Based on the type of cleaning, they are divided into devices for dry and wet cleaning.

Handheld vacuum cleaners are mostly used to care for car interiors, clean clothes and for cleaning small surfaces. The device does not have a suction pipe or connecting hose; the nozzles are attached directly to the body, and the role of the transport system is played by a channel built into the body. Devices of this group, in addition to mains power, can be powered by built-in batteries, representing a wireless model of a vacuum cleaner. Car vacuum cleaners can operate on 12/24 V voltage with the function of being powered from a 220 V network via an adapter.

Upright vacuum cleaners fundamentally different from the floor-mounted one in its layout: the housing with the dust collector is fixed directly to the suction pipe. The power plant may be located in the housing or integrated into the waste collection device. This model is also called a vacuum cleaner-mop.

The set of attachments is no different from that of a floor-standing vacuum cleaner, but it is difficult to take advantage of all the advantages due to the design features.

The built-in vacuum cleaner is a type that is rarely seen yet. It is a system of channels laid in the walls and partitions of the house. A hose with a suction pipe is connected to fittings brought to the surface, the power unit and a waste collection container are mounted in the utility rooms. The need to use long hoses imposes significant restrictions on the possibility of comprehensive cleaning of premises. Due to their design features, built-in vacuum cleaners are not widely used in everyday life.

Classification by type of dust collector

Regardless of the layout, each vacuum cleaner has a container for collecting debris and dust - a dust receptacle. There are 3 known main versions of dust collectors; all the others are variations and modifications. Dirt collected by a vacuum cleaner accumulates:

in bags;
in containers;
in water filters.

Bags began to be used to collect dirt in the first samples of vacuum cleaners. Modern units can be equipped with fabric bags, bags made of non-woven and synthetic materials, and paper (cellulose) bags. Bags made from natural and synthetic fabrics are reused many times. Disposable storage devices are made from cellulose compounds and non-woven materials.

Debris and dust are collected when a suction air stream passes through the internal cavity of the bag. Small dust particles that penetrate through the pores of the bag are captured by additional filters installed in the air duct. Additional filters prevent clogging power plant vacuum cleaner and clean the air leaving the unit from the smallest dust fractions. Special types of fine air filters adsorb biological contaminants: dust mites, bacteria and microorganisms.

Dust containers are made from various compositions of transparent plastics and are used in the absence of mechanical damage during the entire service life of the bagless vacuum cleaner.

The use of transparent plastics for the manufacture of containers allows you to visually monitor the filling level of the dust collector and promptly empty it of dirt.

The principle of collecting dirt in a container is to use a vortex (cyclonic) movement of a sucked air stream. At a high peripheral speed of polluted air, dirt particles settle on the inner surface of the container and are pressed against the walls by the kinetic energy of the moving air. In modern units, in order to maximize air purification from dust particles, schemes with two and three cycles of vortex cleaning are used. The use of cyclones does not exempt the design from the use of additional filtration of the outgoing air flow.

Water filters provide a high degree of air purification even from microscopic dust particles. The operating principle of the aquafilter is based on trapping dirt with water. The design of a vacuum cleaner with water cleaning is somewhat similar to cyclone units, only dirt is collected not in air, but in a water vortex flow.

Features of washing vacuum cleaners

Modern vacuum cleaners provide the ability to carry out dry and wet cleaning. The design of a washing vacuum cleaner is distinguished by the presence of additional containers for water and detergents, a pump that supplies the washing mixture to the cleaning area, and liquid supply channels integrated into the connecting hose and suction pipe.

A type of washing vacuum cleaner is a vacuum cleaner with the function of cleaning surfaces with steam (steam). The difference from detergent is the presence of a steam generator in the device. When the steam generation function is activated, cleaning does not require any use. chemicals cleaning.

Important details in the design of vacuum cleaners

The high-quality operation of a vacuum cleaner is determined primarily by the functioning of the main components. But the design of cleaning units contains a large number of parts that are not very important at first glance, the condition of which determines the service life of the vacuum cleaner, suction power and degree of air purification. These include:

filters;
seals;
bushings and bearings.

Filters made from modern woven and non-woven materials help to obtain the outgoing air stream as clean as possible from dust and biological contaminants. The use of fluoropolymers to seal joints ensures the tightness of various functional areas of the vacuum cleaner. Polyamide and fluoroplastic bushings and bearings extend the trouble-free operation of moving and rotating parts.

tehnika.expert

POWER CONTROL FOR VACUUM CLEANER

During secondary use (meaning use other than for its intended purpose, not in a vacuum cleaner), the power regulator circuit cannot remain the same. Operating conditions change. They will already be strikingly different from those that were taken into account when creating this regulator. For example, electronic components The regulator circuits will no longer have such luxurious air cooling, which is involuntarily created in a working vacuum cleaner.

The regulator board removed from the vacuum cleaner was tested on a 220 V / 95 W light bulb connected to it. To do this, you first need to attach the board to at least some kind of base - a dielectric and a potentiometer ( variable resistance directly producing a change in power value) put the handle on a non-conductive material electricity, because “220 V around” may appear on the regulator board. Carefully moving the handle of the slider resistor, I found out that the light bulb glows at full power, but does not stop glowing. The resistor, even when “turned out” to failure, does not reduce the power to “0”.

Regulator circuit

That is, this circuit allows you to regulate the power of connected electrical equipment from 50 to 100%. And you need from “0” to 100%. This means that it is necessary to make changes to the scheme that will eliminate the existing drawback, as well as other side effects that may arise in connection with changes in the conditions for using the regulator. In a word, you need a graphic representation of the circuit. At least in this form.

The image of the printed circuit board clearly shows that in parallel with the variable resistor there is also a constant resistor with a resistance of 360 kOhm, which can be removed to achieve the required power adjustment range. Which is what I did. Also in the photo the very small size of the cooling radiator of the T1212MJ triac standing here is very clear - it is definitely necessary to change it to much larger ones, 3-4 times as much.

Removing the resistor gave an effect, but a little less than what was needed, now “0” power was reached halfway through the movement of the slide resistor. I wanted smoother power control.

This is what was achieved by further replacement variable resistor from the existing resistance rating to a 200 kOhm resistor with a power of 2 W. Just as expected, the triac cooling radiator was replaced. During test switching on, it was discovered that a 10 kOhm 5 W constant resistor, which acts as a voltage limiter in the circuit, was getting very hot; it was replaced with a more powerful one (10 W).

Modified scheme

The printed circuit board eventually adopted this design. The changes made to the power regulator circuit in this particular case made it possible to use it to regulate the power of the heating coil of a thermal air soldering gun purchased on AliExpress. Measuring the resistance of the heating coil gave 70 Ohms, using the formula for finding power using known resistance and voltage:

P = U x U / R, got 230 x 230 / 70 = 755.7 W

Yes, in my outlet there is always a voltage of 230 volts. This kind of powerful power regulator for all occasions can be obtained from a household vacuum cleaner that has become unusable. Posted by Babay iz Barnaula

Discuss the article POWER REGULATOR FROM A VACUUM CLEANER

radioskot.ru

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair | Reviews of household appliances on gooosha.ru

By and large, a vacuum cleaner is a fairly simple device and to repair it you do not need to have special knowledge and experience - it is enough to understand in general terms the principle of operation of the electric motor, switching devices (power buttons and power regulators), and be able to hold a soldering iron and screwdriver in your hands. My Samsung VC-6015V vacuum cleaner required repair twice and both cases of “surgical” intervention were successful. If you have questions about the operation of a particular unit or method of checking electronic components, you can always consult by visiting the electronics forum, where more experienced specialists and amateurs will help in resolving any problems. Moreover, there are many topics on various techniques where you can find, in addition to advice and discussions, also circuit diagrams devices.

If the vacuum cleaner does not turn on

The first step is to make sure that the voltage is reaching the control board. To do this, remove the casing, the plastic panel with the power and cord rewind buttons and see the control board in front of you. It traces along the power cord coming from the winding unit which terminals it goes to. We turn it on and measure the voltage at these terminals - if there is voltage, then everything is in order with the cord.

Next, we check the operation of the network power button (indicated by number 1 in the figure). When the network is disconnected, its contacts are called in the on and off state - if switching occurs, we move on. It is necessary to check the triac circuit (indicated in the figure - 3) - for this, with the network turned on, we check the voltage at the terminals going to the motor - if present, this circuit is in order, and if not, there is a high probability of damage to the triac, and it does not pass through current yourself. These triacs can be easily found on any radio market and cost about $0.5.

Control board

If voltage still arrives to the engine, but it does not work, the first thing we check is thermal protection– a device is attached to the motor housing in a special holder that controls the temperature of the housing – if its value reaches the normal limit, the thermal protection interrupts the power supply circuit. If you ring the protection and make sure that everything is in order with it, then the problem is in the engine.

First of all, we check the brushes - if they wear out, the circuit between the stator winding and the rotor may disappear. The brushes must fit snugly to the rotor and have a margin along the stroke. Next, we use a tester to check the entire chain (stator winding - brush - rotor - brush - stator winding) with the vacuum cleaner turned off and the terminals from the control board removed - and we see that there is a break in it. Yes, exactly a break, because if all the previous stages have shown the integrity of the circuit and voltage is supplied to the motor, but it does not work, although the brushes are in order, this is a clear winding break. This is the most unpleasant moment, since the engine is not dismountable, and it is not easy to get inside - only small slots at the top of the housing. I’ll say right away that the cost of a new one is about $25. But sometimes you still get lucky, and you can eliminate the break - you need to check everything through the holes in the housing where the ends of the windings are secured to the incoming terminals and brushes. The fastenings there are made in the form of a “dovetail” - the wire is inserted into a slot in a metal plate. As a result of constant vibrations, it can break in this place and break the chain. This is exactly what happened in my case. You can try to tighten the wire and fasten it again, but sometimes this is impossible - you have to solder another piece of a couple of centimeters. It is inconvenient to solder through a small slot, but it is possible - as a result, the vacuum cleaner will work again.

The vacuum cleaner works, but its speed is not regulated

In this case, what is possible is not a break inside the triac, as with a non-working vacuum cleaner, but a breakdown - the output voltage is not regulated, but is passed through itself without any control. The cause of such a malfunction may also be the loss of contact in (indicated by number 2 in the figure). Everything is simple here - replacing either a slider resistor or a triac.

As a rule, vacuum cleaner malfunctions are easy to detect, and they can almost always be eliminated. An exception may be a short circuit inside the motor windings - it is difficult to eliminate this damage by rewinding the windings due to the non-separable housing - and you have to replace the entire motor, which is also cost-effective - $25 is, after all, not 70 - 80 - exactly how much such a vacuum cleaner costs .

gooosha.ru

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair: design and breakdowns

Regardless of the type of vacuum cleaner, the engine is called the heart. Television programs love to depict the creation of a vacuum; in our opinion, what has been said is an inept manipulation of words. The engine draws in air with a blade, and the filter protects moving parts from dust. Each bearing is equipped with an insert for these purposes. The engine is not protected from vacuum... Do-it-yourself repair of a vacuum cleaner is advisable when the heart of the device is functioning properly, and there is a need to replace, modify the brushes, and lubricate the bearings. It’s wonderful that the devices are similar from the inside, like two peas in a pod. The mechanical part, the design of the dust collection container, filters, brushes, hoses, and housings vary. Accessories are an essential part of the device. The design of the vacuum cleaner and the fundamental idea remain the same!

The structure of a typical vacuum cleaner

The heart of a vacuum cleaner is rightly called the motor, traditionally a collector motor. Let's briefly look at the design of an irreplaceable product and create a clear idea. In an asynchronous motor, a rotating field is created by correctly distributing the phases of the windings; the winding commutator switches in series. There are unpopular exceptions. The direction of movement is determined by the direction of activation:

The current flows, the fields work to attract.
Current flows, fields repel.

As for the question of why the rotor rotates in this particular direction, not the opposite when the windings are connected unidirectionally, the answer is revealed by the relative arrangement of the brushes and stator coils, and the structure of the commutator. The number of coils wound on the armature is equal to the number of shaft contact pads. The brushes power a single winding at any given time. Then the shaft rotates a certain angular distance, and the next coil is energized. One revolution passes and the cycle begins again.

Imagine a stator pole (only one for now, not two) located at the bottom. Let's say that at the initial moment of time the brushes are placed in such a way that the armature pole to the left of the construction axis is powered. Then, thanks to repulsion, the shaft begins to describe the clock hand. The axis passes an angular distance, the current begins to flow around the next winding, which has managed to take the place of the previous one. This happens as long as the current exists. Moreover, there is no difference, constant or variable. The commutator motor will operate driven by the direction of the field. The rotation speed is not determined by the frequency - by the design of the mechanical part, by the magnitude of the voltage.

Now if the fields attract each other, the rotation will begin counterclockwise. By the time the poles of the stator and rotor are opposite each other, the power will be transferred to the next coil, which will begin to create the required force. The cycle is circular. Now the coils. Brushed motors are equipped with a pair of windings on the stator for direct current, because alternating current encounters too much resistance from the inductors. This is why some brushed motors are designed with separate stator leads. Allows you to use one winding instead of two. It is clear that the load capacity drops significantly. But losses are reduced.

In a vacuum cleaner on the motor stator, we will notice two diametrically opposed windings that help each other. Mutually beneficial coexistence is ensured by the correct direction of inclusion (written above). Reversible motors have a special power relay that switches the poles in the proper order. For comparison, in an asynchronous motor, such a relay distributes the voltage phases in a different way. It turns out to be reverse. A commutator motor does not require a starting winding and a capacitor (one phase), which try to simulate a second winding. To put it simply, the efficiency of three-phase asynchronous motors higher. The brainchildren of Nikola Tesla and Dolivo-Dobrovolsky are used in industrial equipment; in the 90s, they were replaced by collector ones from household appliances (vacuum cleaners were traditionally equipped with graphite brushes before perestroika).

Two brushes are used to transmit current to the armature. The difference is leveled, where there is a plus, where there is a minus, the direction is ensured by correct switching.

Is it possible to change the order in which the brushes are connected to make the motor rotate in the opposite direction? The field polarity is reversed. This technique is used to obtain reverse constant voltage. When repairing vacuum cleaners yourself, remember the correct position of the contacts.

How does a vacuum cleaner motor work?

A tangential fan is hidden behind the coarse and fine air filters. The air enters the center, is expelled to the periphery, moving forward, enters the room through a HEPA filter that captures particles the size of a unit of microns (micrometers). The blade is covered with a lid; the part is made in the form of aluminum curved partitions between two metal planes. The result is closed channels. The engine is surrounded by a plastic casing (traditionally white), in which the output flow path is cut.

This is interesting! Due to the presence of a tangential fan, the efficiency of the vacuum cleaner barely reaches 20-30%. With a power consumption of 1600 W, the suction will be 350 W.

The brushes are attached in shafts; it is useful for beginners to know: this is a typical pencil graphite (carbon, coal). If necessary, you can sharpen the parts and adjust them as needed so that the steel fits in place. If the area of contact with the commutator is small, it’s okay; the brushes will gradually break in. The tips are slightly ground in a semicircle inward. Each brush is pressed by a spring through which current passes; this measure will provide a long service life to the products. Carbon will work until it wears down to the ground. However, the copper collector must be clean. Wipe with your favorite product if necessary, remove the oxide film to a copper shine.

The shaft is attached to the stator with two bearings. Different sizes to make it easier to disassemble the vacuum cleaner motor. The front bearing is large, the rear bearing is small. The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using suitable means (pneumatic puller), moderate heating helps. The bearings are equipped with anthers. Although the vacuum cleaner creates a vacuum, dirt also penetrates there. The anthers are carefully removed with a screwdriver if necessary to lubricate the parts. Suitable: HADO composition, Litol - 24, EP - 2. Lubricant is put inside, the boot is put in place.

Disassemble the vacuum cleaner for repairs

Repairing a vacuum cleaner with your own hands begins by removing the housing. In each case, the methods are different. The filters blocking access to the engine are removed. Electrical installation is disconnected (the vacuum cleaner is unplugged from the outlet), the plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the frame. The motor should be removed from the casing, after which the fan is removed. The nut has a left-hand thread; twist carefully. Following the fan is a collector-cover, under which the electrical part is hidden. The further course of operations is clear from what was previously read, up to the removal of the rotor.

If necessary, the bearings are removed using a thread puller or hydraulic press. Assistive devices are used. Small balls with a diameter that fit inside the bearings. It is recommended to flatten on one side to prevent them from rolling. Reinstallation is carried out in a similar way. If you hold the anchor by the bearing in your hand, the rotation should be fast, silent, and confident. When lubricating, the outer boot is removed; take the trouble to install new spare parts on the same side.

Typical vacuum cleaner breakdowns

What breaks in a vacuum cleaner.

brushes;
bearings;
motor windings;
power cord;
fuse.

Other vacuum cleaners have two motors. The second is located on the brush, where it makes the bristles move. Cyclone models use turbos and move air to do the work. The design refinement simplifies the manufacture of the hose and eliminates one big problem when the wire breaks in the thickness of the rubber. Of course, modern tools will allow you to accurately determine the location of the incident; it is better to avoid breakdowns altogether. The idea of the designers who placed a motor inside the brush is easy to understand: there is no need to press when cleaning, the weight is decent. Decide for yourself whether you like it. In the opinion of the editors, the brush should be light to make it easier to operate.

Repair of washing vacuum cleaners is no different from that described above. However, the units house a pump that supplies water to the hose. We will return to the issue in the reviews later. As for the input path, the configuration does not differ from the usual one, excluding the presence of a water filter. Most look like sad boxes filled with water. In some vacuum cleaners with an aqua filter, thin streams of water flow at the junction of the hose and the body. Primary dust collection works. However, it is difficult to notice the malfunction. It’s another matter if the vacuum cleaner is equipped with a self-diagnosis option, which will tell you the location of the breakdown.

Repairing robotic vacuum cleaners closely affects the field of electronics. There are no service mechanisms at all. However, you will find the engine in a reduced size. Most of the functions are implemented by microcircuits, the memory can accommodate various programs. Repairing Electrolux vacuum cleaners will seem like child's play compared to the task of getting Rumba or Scuba working from the American company iRobot (developer of US army and police automation). A significant disadvantage of robots is the inability to clean uneven surfaces. Electronic servants lack the ability to create a vacuum... they use a rotating brush to sweep away dust.

vashtehnik.ru

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Every carpentry shop should have a vacuum cleaner. Usually people start with a simple household one, then build some kind of extensions for it, and then often purchase construction vacuum cleaners. They are more powerful, more spacious, and have a socket on the body that is synchronized with the connected tool.

This construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter was made by a handy guy named Fedor Medvedev. The idea is cool, the execution didn’t let us down either, in general, there’s a lot to learn.

The main materials used were waste materials, namely chipboard scraps, in addition to a piece of fiberglass with epoxy, and an engine from a vacuum cleaner with a turbine (I wasn’t too lazy to look - on the Internet for Avito 400 rubles).

For the work you needed: a jigsaw, chipboard scraps, a cone and a pipe (as matrices), fiberglass and epoxy resin, an engine with a turbine (2 kW), a speed controller circuit, a pair of sockets.

Electro-mechanical part of the work.

Initially, the cyclone was planned to be made from 160-mm sewer PVC pipes, but these materials are highly electrified by dust, which may create operational difficulties in the future. Therefore, fiberglass was chosen as the material for the cyclone. The bases for the cyclone filter (conical and cylindrical) were glued together from fiberglass. The cone and pipe served as the matrix.

After the templates have dried, they are removed from the matrix and the assembly of the swirler begins. The body is glued together, inlet and outlet pipes are installed (from 50 mm PVC pipe).

The hole in the body is sealed with cardboard, which is covered on top with a couple of layers of fiberglass.

The swirler is designed to spin the air flow with dust and other dirt at an angle of 33 degrees (the angle corresponds to industrial cyclones TsN 33). The cover and base of the cyclone filter are disks made of chipboard. The base also serves as a lid for the dust container (40 liter plastic barrel).
Holes are cut in the center for flowing dust and for the outlet pipe. And the separator is glued into its original place.

We're done with the cyclone. Let's move on to the fine filter (not all the dust goes into the tank, its small fractions in relatively small quantities are drawn up and negatively affect the operation of the engine). For its body, 11 simple rings were cut from laminated chipboard.

And one snowflake ring. This shape was chosen to redirect the air flow from the center outward, which has a beneficial effect on the filtration surface.

This ring fits onto the cover of the cyclone separator. After which all the rings are glued together (epoxy resin was used). The body was impregnated with it (to give it tightness and an aesthetic appearance).

We install the compartment with the filter on the cyclone separator. To eliminate the load on the latter, additional spacers are included in the design.

The engine compartment is made in a similar way (it is only necessary to make holes for air to escape). The engine is attached to the filter with lanyards (to make it possible to replace the fine filter if necessary).

A plastic box with electrical diagram the entire vacuum cleaner. The socket is required for synchronous connection of power tools.
The right button is to turn on the vacuum cleaner in manual mode, the left button is the automatic mode, in which the vacuum cleaner turns on when the power tool connected to it is turned on. The power regulator is marked in a circle.

The power supply circuit for the motor with a speed controller (built on the basis of a triac) was taken from a household vacuum cleaner, but the variable resistor was replaced in it to make it more convenient to connect it to the housing. In principle, you can use a simple

Synchronous start circuit, taken from the network

During the tests, it was found that the degree of cleaning exceeds the results of factory-made household vacuum cleaners with cyclones (using the example of Samsung, 1.6 kW). It took the author 5,000 rubles from the budget (but these are Moscow prices, of which the engine is 1,000 rubles + 600 rubles delivery), I roughly estimated that it could be done in half that amount.

When working with wood, you cannot do without a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner. If during long-term work, for example, when working on a thicknesser, circular or milling machine, it is easy to turn on the chip ejector manually, then when turning on a tool for a short time, such as a hand-held circular saw, a hand-held router, it is painfully troublesome to manually turn on and off the vacuum cleaner each time. Often, when you get carried away, you forget to either turn it on or off. Therefore, the presenter of the video channel “” decided to make a device that allows you to automatically turn on a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner synchronously when you turn on the tool. Similar to the one that is equipped with some models of industrial construction vacuum cleaners.

Let's cut out a drawing of the board from paper and paste it onto the PCB. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, we will drill holes for the radio components, and with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm, we will drill mounting holes in the corners of the board. We will make the board mechanically, by cutting insulating grooves between the printed conductors. To do this we will use a cutter. The cutter can be easily made from a piece of hacksaw blade. I haven’t specifically cut the board to size yet, since it’s more convenient to attach and cut through the foil on a large sheet of PCB. Let's cut the board to size and remove the excess foil with a scalpel. We will sand the board, check the quality of the cut grooves and, if necessary, correct the tracks. Let's cover the contact pads with flux and tin them using shielding braid.

Discussion

Oleg Dedukh
3 days ago
Good afternoon. Could you email me the PCB file? [email protected]

DIY carpentry
3 days ago
Get it here: https://goo.gl/AaYLhz. Good luck!

Alexander Kuzmin
What do you think about connecting a 220 to 12 volt step-down transformer and a fan from the laptop motherboard to this circuit? on x1 we connect the phase (L) of the 220 volt transformer, and on x2 we connect the N neutral of the transformer, then on the step-down part of the 12 volt transformer we connect a fan to L and N, then when you turn on the vacuum cleaner, will the fan immediately turn on and cool the diodes and resistors?

DIY carpentry
1 month ago
Aleksandr Kuzmin It could be like that. I installed the board inside the vacuum cleaner body (see my video about the vacuum cleaner) and the problem with the airflow disappeared by itself.

Igor Shiganov
1 month ago
Please tell me. I assembled everything according to the diagram. A vacuum cleaner with 2 engines of 1.3 currents took all the parts with a reserve. I connected it via the phase change button to the vacuum cleaner so that it could be turned on independently. The first switch-on went with a bang, in one position of the key the vacuum cleaner worked separately, and in another position when the tool was turned on. After a couple of minutes, and the vacuum cleaner’s motors weren’t even working, the AD12 socket protection triggered and now the vacuum cleaner turns on at any position of the three-position switch. What could be the reason?

DIY carpentry
1 month ago
Igor Shiganov The triac burned out. Apparently it overheated. Look at the comments, you will find answers to your questions there. Good luck!

SanSay 16RUS
3 month ago
I assembled this miracle and... it works))), but the question is, why does the triac heat up? After all, it seems to be 12 amperes, but in my case, 7 amperes flow through it (the dust is 1400 W, and the actual ones are even less). Of course, I just put it on a strip of aluminum, but still. In 2 minutes it heats up to 60 degrees.

DIY carpentry
3 month ago
I said that the triac must be placed on the radiator. It is small, but you need to dissipate a lot of power. Therefore, such devices, regardless of the rated direct current, should always be installed on radiators. Glad everything worked out for you. Good luck!SanSay 16RUS
3 month ago
I read about these triacs - it turns out that it’s normal that they heat up... supposedly that’s how they are designed and the normal temperature for them is even 100 degrees, but in short they need to be cooled somehow - I went to a metal reception center and for 100 rubles I bought a radiator from them for the PC PC , aluminum, round 90mm, with a bunch of ribs and... in 5 minutes neither the triac nor the radiator even heated up to 30 degrees!
Well... a strip of aluminum up to 60 g. in 2 minutes and a normal radiator in 5 minutes up to 30... 35 years, and study, study and study again)))

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05.05.2016

When working with wood, you cannot do without a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner. If during long-term work, for example, when working on a thickness planer, circular or milling machine, it is easy to turn on the chip ejector manually, then when turning on the tool for a short time, so that, like a cross-cut saw, manual disk cutter, manual milling machine, you can manually turn on and off the vacuum cleaner any time it's painfully troublesome. Usually, when you get carried away, you forget to either turn it on or off.

Based on this, the presenter of the video channel “Carpentry with my own hands“I decided to make a device that allows you to automatically turn on a chip ejector or vacuum cleaner when you turn on the tool. Similar to the one that is equipped with some models of industrial construction vacuum cleaners.

I decided to take as a base such a circuit for synchronous switching, posted in the Radio publication. Indeed, there is an inaccuracy in it. The circuit connecting the left terminal of resistor R1 in the diagram to the cathode of diode VD1 must be broken. Redrawn the diagram more clearly.

When you turn on the power tool, current begins to flow through the diodes VD2...VD5.

The voltage falling across them through resistor R1 is applied to the control electrode of the triac and opens it. Through a triac, power supply is supplied to the vacuum cleaner and it turns on. The maximum power of a tool is determined by the maximum permissible current through the diodes, and of a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner - by the maximum permissible current through a triac.

I chose the details based on the load of 2 kW.

The triac can withstand a high forward current of 12 A, the diodes can be any rectifier, designed for a high forward current of at least 6 A and a reverse voltage of at least 200 V. The device is assembled on a printed circuit board made of single-sided foil PCB. On the left is a view of the board from the printed circuit side, and on the right is a diagram of the placement of hinged elements on the board. To make the board, I took a piece of PCB.

I deliberately did not start cutting the board to size yet, because it is more ergonomic to attach and cut through the foil on a huge page of PCB. Let's cut the board to size and remove the excess foil with a scalpel. We will sand the board, make sure the quality level of the cut grooves is reliable and, if necessary, correct the tracks.

Let's cover the contact pads with flux and tin them using shielding braid.

We use rosin dissolved in alcohol as a flux. Let's start assembling the details. In accordance with the wiring diagram, we will put all the parts into the board and bend the legs on the reverse side so that the parts do not fall out. We cut off the legs with pliers, leaving the length of the curved ends 2...3 mm. Apply flux to the contact pads and solder the parts to the board. Solder the mounting wires and connect the sockets in accordance with the diagram.

A vacuum cleaner and tool are connected to the outlet. Let's make sure the device is working properly. This is a power outlet.

For clarity, we use a 60 W incandescent lamp as a vacuum cleaner. We plug it into the outlet. The tool we use is a 400 W eccentric sander. We plug in the device. We turn on the machine. He's working!

Instead of a lamp, we will connect a vacuum cleaner. Its power is 1300 W. We heard he's working. The details are still under wraps.

You need to monitor heating for long periods of time or by connecting a better tool.

Working at full capacity. Therefore, 60 W is enough for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, the workshop does not have a tool with a power of less than 60 W that it needs to work with. So we can assume that 60 W is the minimum load. Actually, I made a board for synchronous operation of the devices specifically to control the chip ejector for my own miter saw. I discovered a dilapidated communist "Whirlwind" in a landfill.

It is planned to make a chip pump out of it. Let's make sure that the board works with the unit. Insert the plug from the vacuum cleaner into the outlet.

Miter saw. We control it. The vacuum cleaner is working. It sucks in air well.

The radiator is cold, and the diodes have warmed up a little... - the power of the saw is high - after all, 1800 W. How it is planned to make a chip extractor out of this vacuum cleaner is the subject of a separate discussion.

It turned out to be such a device. On its basis it is also planned to make a power regulator for your own angle grinder. Quite often we use it to clean boards from dirt, sand and cement, and to sand logs.

12 thousand revolutions is still too much for purposes.

Random entries:

Synchronous activation of the chip ejector

Synchronous module soft start designed to synchronize operation, smooth start and shutdown of any power tool. For example, using such a device, you can synchronize the operation of an angle grinder, router, hammer drill or any other tool on one side, and a vacuum cleaner on the other.

When you press the power tool button (socket 2), the vacuum cleaner engine (socket 1) starts smoothly, and when you turn it off, the vacuum cleaner engine runs for another 6 seconds and turns off (provided that the power button is in the on state).

The use of a soft start system unit allows you to reduce starting currents, reduce the likelihood of motor overheating, increase service life, and eliminate jerks in the mechanical part of the drive at the time of starting and stopping the electric motor.

Photos 1, 2, 3 Appearance and dimensions of the soft synchronous start unit for power tools

Along with the effect of a soft start, such a unit allows you to reduce active power consumption, significantly reduce reactive power, protect the engine, reduce noise, heating and vibration of the electric motor.

The synchronous soft starter is equipped with a 2 meter long cable.

The total power of the power tool connected to sockets 1 and 2 should not exceed 3.5 kW. To implement the synchronous start function, the power of the device connected to socket 2 must be at least 150 W.

Price - 700 UAH.

Photo 4. Key fob system remote control.

Photo 4 shows the key fob of the remote control system. This function can be added to the synchronous starter module. Range of action - up to 30m. Button A turns on, button B turns off socket 1. It is also possible to connect additional key fobs.

The cost of the remote control system is 350 UAH

Remote control module with the function of synchronous start of vacuum cleaner drives (remote control module with SP)

Photo 5 - Remote control module with the function of synchronous start of vacuum cleaner drives (remote control module with SP). Photo 6 - Connection diagram of the remote control module with SP.

The remote control module with SP (photo 5) allows you not only to remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner drives, but also to synchronize the start of the power tool with the activation of the vacuum cleaner drives. In this case, it is enough to connect this device to the wiring of your workshop or workshop (as shown in photo 6) and the vacuum cleaner will turn on simultaneously with any power tool included in this circuit. The vacuum cleaner will turn off 6 seconds after the power tool is turned off to remove any remaining dust in the hoses. A button on the device body allows you to turn the synchronous start function on and off if necessary. In position "1" only drive A is turned on synchronously, in position "2" - drives A and B, and in position "0" the synchronous start function is disabled and the drives are turned on only from the remote control.

Price - 1800 UAH.