Self-blueing of hunting weapon barrels - composition recipes, execution procedure. Burnishing at home: features of the work Blued blackening of metal

Steel bluing can be considered an industrial scale process. It involves applying a protective layer to the product or surface - iron oxide, which has certain characteristics. But bluing at home is also done quite often. It cannot be compared with the oxidation process in a factory, but this technology is successfully used in practice by home craftsmen. There are several methods of bluing, among them hot, cold methods and the method of exposure to oxidizing agents.

Cold way

Burnishing at home can be done using a method that does not involve hot processing. It is applicable if metal parts cannot be subjected to significant loads. Among the solutions that can be found in the home craftsman's arsenal, there are those that can form a special protective coating on the metal surface. One of these is the so-called Parisian oxide. It should be applied with a brush, and then wash the surface or product. This process cannot be called long or costly.

If there is a need to achieve a longer-lasting effect, the treatment can be carried out by complete immersion in the solution. After this, the part or surface should be washed using any product and wiped with a rag, which should first be moistened with alcohol. If such bluing was done at home yourself, then you can check its effectiveness using ordinary water. Moisture is applied to the base with a brush, after which not a drop should form, but a uniform film.

Hot way

If the metal can be subjected to high temperatures, then it is first tarred and then burned with a blowtorch. For the process you need to prepare gun or olive oil. This technology is effective, harmless and low-cost. It is worth noting that the effect lasts much longer than when processed using the method described above. During the work, heating should be carried out slowly, everything starts at 200 degrees and ends at around 400 degrees. If you do this kind of bluing at home yourself, a brown and then a black layer will form on the surface. It is important to avoid using excessive amounts of oil, as otherwise stains may form on the surface.

If metal bluing is to be done at home, then the best method for hot processing is a composition that is prepared from 20 parts of grease and one part of sulfur. The resulting mixture should be applied to the surface in as thin a layer as possible, and then the master subjects the product to flameless firing. The formed film will become perfectly uniform.

Burnishing with oxidizing agents

This method involves the use of molten oxidizing agents, these can be nitrites or nitrates. The metal part should be dipped into molten salts, holding it there until the surface turns black. Instead of these substances, which are quite dangerous, you can use alkaline or hot saline solutions.

What else does a master need to know?

Blueing metal at home can be done quite simply, as evidenced by the recommendations described above. Oxidizer technology is a method that is widely used for blackening copper, cast iron and steel products. The former acquire a rich red color after completion of the process. But if you are faced with the task of blackening hardened and heat-sensitive products, then processing them using this method is not recommended.

We should not forget that after bluing the gun at home has been completed, it must be washed using special products, dried, and then lubricated with oil.

Features of bluing

In industrial conditions, bluing of the top layer of metal is carried out by changing the structural composition. Among other things, a protective coating is applied in a special way, which helps protect against corrosion. Using technologies that are used in industrial enterprises at home is not only economically unprofitable, but also impossible. You can fight rusty metal yourself by applying compounds, which are sold in a wide range in stores of the relevant goods. A sufficiently high-quality result can be achieved by using saltpeter. Among other things, you can effectively remove blackening using a special pencil. In some cases, steel bluing is done at home with citric or phosphoric acid.

Secrets of the work

Initially, you need to thoroughly grind and clean the surface. Then degreasing is carried out, for which a special solution should be prepared. The selected product is applied in the next step. After degreasing is completed, the product must not be touched, otherwise all work must be performed with rubber gloves.

Conclusion

Burnishing barrels at home, as a rule, involves the application of substances that are classified as hazardous. That is why the master must follow the rules and provide special conditions that guarantee safety and prevent injury. Due to the fact that the solution used for bluing contains chemically active components and acid, it is necessary to use only special containers. This will prevent damage to the materials in the products and will not cause you unnecessary trouble, which is very important for the successful completion of the work.

To ensure that the product can serve for a long time without painting, metal bluing is used at home to protect against corrosion. This processing method creates a thin oxide film on the surface of the parts. It does not allow moisture (H₂O) and gases (CO and O₂) to pass through to the open metal (in real conditions, a chemical reaction occurs to reduce the carbon content with a decrease in hardness).

Oxidation proceeds in such a way that iron exhibits divalent properties. Oxides form on the surface or a layer of insoluble salts forms. Only in the presence of strong acids can the resulting film be dissolved.

Causes of metal corrosion in the open air

The combined action of water and oxygen occurs according to the scheme where both aggressive substances act on pure iron: 4Fe + 6H₂O + 4O₂ = 4Fe(OH)₃.

As a result, iron hydroxide Fe(OH)₃ is formed; it has a red (orange) color and has a loose structure.

Carbon steel, when periodically heated in the environment, loses carbon, and the iron it contains is more susceptible to corrosion. Decarbonization of steel products occurs through the following chemical reactions:

• Fe₃C + CO₂ = 3Fe + 2CO;
• Fe₃C + H₂O = 3Fe + H₂ + CO;
• Fe₃C + 2H₂ = 3Fe + CH₄,

where Fe₃C is cementite, one of the important components of steel. It is this connection that determines the strength and hardness of steel products.

The surface layer contains more pure iron. It is susceptible to water and surrounding gases. The process is growing. Loose rust quickly spreads inside parts.

To prevent corrosion and decarburization, products are coated with paints or primers. Chemical exposure is reduced hundreds of times. But it is not always possible to use liquid or powder paints. A whole group of steel parts is operated without painting:

1. Cold steel and firearms.
2. Products obtained as a result of cold forging.
3. Claiming couples working with gases and liquids.

For them you need to use a different method of protection.

What does steel blueing do?

Some inexperienced craftsmen often do not know what metal bluing is. This method of processing is used quite rarely, believing that it is a rather complicated procedure. In fact, any manufacturer can achieve positive results with his own hands with minimal costs of materials and labor.

During chemical or thermal bluing, an oxide film with a thickness of 1...3 to 10...15 microns is formed on the surface of the steel. The thickness of the resulting layer largely depends on the technology used. When performing this operation, the main goals are achieved:

• the steel product's corrosion resistance increases;
• parts that have been processed are able to remain resistant to aggressive environmental influences.

If there is action of alkalis, acids and special heat treatment, then the surface is covered with oxide,

2Fe + O₂ = 2FeO.

Oxidation, when iron exhibits diatomic properties, forms black films. Depending on their thickness, the color of the product also changes. If there is a sufficiently thick film (up to 12...15 microns), then the surface is black. To damage such a coating, you need to apply quite a significant amount of force.

How to oxidize metals at home?

In practice, bluing is performed according to various schemes:

1. Heat treatment of parts followed by oil coating.
2. Heating to boiling temperatures in chemical solutions.
3. Painting with special compounds that penetrate the surface layer. Diffusion of the coating layer with the base occurs.

At home, you can implement any of the methods, you just need to familiarize yourself with the features of the technology, as well as prepare the necessary equipment.

Selection of technology for bluing parts

To choose the right bluing method, it is advisable to decide on a number of specific parameters and recommendations:

• In the case of restoration of damaged coating, the extent of existing damage should be determined. If you need to revive limited areas where there are scratches or small abrasions, the choice is made on the alkaline method of producing an oxide film on the metal surface.
• If the surface of the part is significantly damaged and there is corrosion on it, the existing coating will have to be completely removed.
• Each product has a certain value. Based on this, it is worth estimating how long subsequent operation is expected. If the item will spend most of its time on the wall as an exhibit, simple chemical processing methods are possible.
• For products actively used on hikes or in the open air (knives, utensils or firearms), thermal methods using oil are used.
• When performing work to order, much depends on the price that the customer can pay. Cheap orders are carried out using simple methods, expensive ones involve the use of more expensive bluing techniques. When performing work for third-party customers, the question is: “How much does it cost?” – will be very relevant.
• At the training stage you will have to pay for everything yourself. Any professional training is expensive, but self-knowledge of the basics of the profession has the advantage: knowledge is acquired without additional payment to the mentor.

All that remains is to study the basic methods of applying an oxide film, and then practice the techniques through real experience and gain the necessary skills.

Preparing for bluing at home

When carrying out bluing work using chemicals, you will have to use tools to clean the surface from dirt and various types of grease. You can do the work manually or use a power tool. The work must be done on a desktop (workbench or cover the table in the apartment with a removable tabletop). In the room itself you need to have equipment and certain protective items:

1. You need a working container for bluing. It should ensure that the part is completely immersed in the solution.
2. Create good exhaust ventilation and fresh air flow. It is advisable to install a probe above the place where processes are carried out, then harmful fumes will not affect humans.
3. When working, you need a container made of material that is neutral to alkalis and acids. It should contain water or a solution that can quickly neutralize the drugs used. The container is made of plastic, glass, porcelain or earthenware.
4. The work must be done with gloves. Here you will need rubber and other types of gloves to prevent solutions from getting on your hands. They must also protect against possible thermal effects.
5. Respiratory protection is achieved by using respirators. When using strong acids, activated carbon filters will be needed.
6. Vision protection is achieved by using safety glasses. There are special glasses for working with chemical reagents; they are sold in work clothing stores.
7. Aprons and jackets made of tarpaulin will protect the body from drops of solutions.

Alkaline steel bluing

The simplest way to apply an oxide film to products is alkaline bluing. The operating principle is based on the use of caustic soda and sodium nitrate (used as a fertilizer). Both components have a pronounced alkaline reaction.

To process a part weighing about 900...1000 g you need to have:

• 100 g caustic soda (NaOH);
• 30 g of sodium nitrate (sodium nitrate NaNO₃).

1. Dissolve the components in 100 ml of water. If this amount of working solution is not enough, then increase the amount of liquid, as well as caustic soda and nitrate in proportion.
2. The solution is heated to 135...145 ⁰С (salt solutions boil at a temperature higher than pure water boils).
3. The part is washed with soap or weak alkali to remove possible greasy stains.
4. Place in the working solution for 30…35 minutes and maintain a high temperature. In a hot state, the rate of film formation on the surface of a steel object will be high.
5. After completing the procedure, it is necessary to wash off the remaining working solution.
6. Wipe the product with vegetable or technical oil.
7. Then thoroughly wipe the item with a rag; only a thin layer of oil film will remain, which will further protect the finished product.

As a result, the metal surface will receive a black coating with a bluish tint. It is quite durable and can withstand minor mechanical stress.

Other alkaline treatments are possible in NaOH and KOH solutions. Prepare a solution in which 300...400 g of each component is dissolved. The minimum concentration of alkalis is 700 g per 1 liter of solution.

The processing procedure takes place according to the technology described above. In this case, the result is a film with slightly more blue.

Attention! During alkaline processing, the liquid level should be maintained so that the part is always completely in the solution. Then the entire coating will be uniform.

Acid bluing of steel blanks

Before starting acid coating, the workpiece is cleaned and washed. You can get by with pure alcohol or a 40% strength solution (regular vodka). Some people use white spirit. Using a swab, clean the surface from greasy stains.

Recipe No. 1

Working solution for bluing:

• 2 g citric acid;
• 2 g oxalic acid;
• 1 liter of water.

1. The solution is heated to a temperature of 120…125 ⁰С.
2. Place the product in it for 20 minutes.
3. Once completed, the part is removed and washed with a slightly alkaline solution. You can use a sponge soaked in shampoo.
4. The treatment is completed by rubbing with machine oil.

The product takes on a black color with some brown tint.

Recipe No. 2

Vegetable tannins (tannins) are used. They are obtained from oak or willow branches.

Preparation of concentrate:

• willow or oak branches (about 3 kg) are boiled in a 10 liter container;
• 3 hours after cooking, a black solution forms;
• the branches are removed from the solution;
• evaporate the solution to 3 liters. The result is concentrated tannic acid. Only part of the solution is used for bluing. The remaining concentrate is poured into a glass container and covered with a tight lid (can be stored for up to 3...4 years).

Blued parts:

1. Use 20...30 g of tanning concentrate per 1 liter of working solution.
2. To activate the process, bluing is carried out with citric acid, which is added to the composition of the working solution (2...3 g per 1 liter of water).
3. The part that needs to be blued is placed in the prepared solution.
4. The duration of the process is 24..30 hours.
5. After processing, the part is removed and washed.
6. The finished part is wiped with machine oil.
7. Remove any remaining oil from the part using a rag.

Using "Rusty Varnish"

“Rusty varnish” is on sale. It is used for surface coating of parts:

• the part is wiped clean from residual grease;
• varnished;
• use an acetone-based solvent, for example, No. 646, to wash off excess varnish from the surface;
• This is one of the fastest bluing methods using ready-made solutions.

Video: bluing at home.

Thermal bluing of parts

In industrial conditions, they prefer to perform bluing using a thermal method. Usually this operation is combined with low tempering, which relieves internal stresses inside steel products:

1. The part is heated in a muffle furnace for 20...30 minutes to a temperature of 180...220 ⁰C.
2. The removed part is wiped with machine oil using a swab. It is advisable to treat all surfaces.
3. If necessary, the treatments are repeated.
4. Usually, a double heat treatment is sufficient to obtain a high-quality blued surface.

Information: weapons factories producing firearms and bladed weapons use thermal bluing. The coating on many products lasts more than 100 years. Example, Mosin rifles manufactured in 1891 and Nagan revolvers released at the end of 1888.

Blueing (blackening) of metal or steel is a coating of the surface with a special layer. It gives the product a certain color: black, blue or another. With this treatment, a beautiful tint appears. However, the method is widely used due to its practical benefits: objects coated with a special film are well protected from corrosion. The process has long been widespread in industry. Some people use bluing at home.

Bluening methods

There are several ways similar processing. In industry, bluing is carried out by changing the structural composition of the surface. Application - in a special way. At home, using such technologies is very expensive or simply impossible.

However, there are ways to blacken steel at home. This does not require industrial equipment. Everything you need can be found in the store. These methods are presented below.

Hot method

The hot method involves exposure high temperature. First, the metal is tarred, then burned, for example, with a blowtorch.

The principle is as simple as possible and has been used since ancient times. Even an ordinary kitchen stove is enough for work. Under the influence of temperature, the top layer interacts with oxygen.

Heating should be carried out slowly, gradually increasing to 400 °C. The surface first turns brown and then black. You will need oil: olive or gun oil. It is important to calculate its amount and not overdo it. Otherwise there will be stains.

The method at home is used less often than others due to technology. Although it has advantages:

• the protective effect lasts longer than with the cold method;
• harmless to health;
• requires low costs.

Before flameless firing, it is advisable to treat the product with a special composition, which includes:

• sulfur;
• grease.

The ratio of components is one to twenty, respectively. Apply as thin a layer as possible. As a result, the protective surface is very smooth.

You can check the quality of bluing in a simple way. Dip the brush into plain water and brush over the treated surface. There should be a film, but not a drop.

Cold way

Another processing method is cold bluing. Often used if products cannot be subjected to heavy loads. It takes a little time and also doesn't require a lot of money.

The idea is to coat the surface with a special solution, for example, Parisian oxide. Typically applied with a brush. For greater effect, the product is immersed in the solution. After the procedure, the product:

1. They wash.
2. Wipe with a rag. It must be moistened with alcohol.

Application of oxidizing agents

There is a method using molten oxidizing agents:

• nitrates;
• nitrites.

This blackening of metal at home involves immersion in a melt. The product remains in it until the surface becomes characteristic color. When working, it is worth remembering that the listed substances are hazardous to health. They can be replaced with the following solutions:

• hot salt;
• alkaline.

Some features

Blueing steel at home is not difficult. Oxidizing agents are used for processing other metal products:

• cast iron;
• copper, which acquire an intense red color.

There are a number of features that it is advisable to remember:

1. If the products are heat-sensitive or hardened, then it is better not to touch them. Blueing will degrade performance.
2. To complete the process, you must remember to wash the product with a special product. After drying, oil lubrication is sometimes required.
3. It is not difficult to find the necessary substances in stores, for example, saltpeter, citric acid.
4. It is also possible to remove blackening. For this you will need a special pencil.

Preparation is important:

1. Before starting, you need to clean the surface and sand it.
2. Degrease with a special solution.
3. Don't forget about rubber gloves to protect your hands. The processed product must not be touched.
4. Create ventilation, exhaust.
5. Select a vessel with suitable properties. The volume should allow the product to be processed to be completely drowned. A material that is not afraid of the substances used is suitable: glass, porcelain, stainless steel, earthenware.

As for color, it can also be important for some products. You can get different colors: from yellow to black, its shades. Therefore, strictly speaking, blackening and bluing are not the same thing.

To achieve the desired color, you will have to further clarify the components of the solutions or pay attention to the heat treatment mode. For example, one way is as follows:

1. Take copper nitrate (70 g) and alcohol denatured alcohol (30 g).
2. The salt is heated until it melts.
3. Add denatured alcohol.
4. The product is coated with this mixture.
5. Heat until the desired shade is obtained. The color will change.

Secrets of bluing

There are many bluing recipes. Every master prefers his, someone may have tricks. In ancient times, blued steel recipes were often kept secret. Today you can find various recipes for every taste.

Cold bluing

The following example of cold bluing of a house can be given:

1. Take a liter of water (distilled), two types of acid: 30% hydrochloric (4 g), 69% nitric (13.5 g). Ferric chloride (170 g) and divalent copper sulfate (4 g) are also added.
2. The mixture is treated with the surface and left for some time. The longer the better.
3. Rust is removed using water steam and a brush.
4. Everything is repeated until the result is the desired one. Some do this up to 10-20 times.

Recipe with oxidizing agent

For example, the following recipe for an alkaline solution can be given:

1. You will need caustic soda (400 g), sodium nitrate (10 g), water (600 ml).
2. The mixture should act for 30 minutes or longer.
3. Then the surface is washed well, dried, and slightly oiled. If the alkali is not completely washed off, plaque will form.

Care should be taken during operation. Hot substances and chemicals can cause damage to health or damage property. It is important not to forget about the correct selection of containers, suitable clothing and basic safety precautions.

Unfortunately, metal, even the highest quality, is subject to destruction. And especially in such conditions as shooting while hunting. There is not only the impact of the shot itself and the chemicals released during it, but also the impact of adverse weather conditions in which the hunt takes place. Plus – errors in weapon care. As a result, after a season or two, rust appears on the trunks, and even shells appear on the inside. There is only one way to return the original ideal appearance of the barrel - by thorough cleaning and bluing. How to make a gun barrel bluing yourself?

Unfortunately, metal, even the highest quality, is subject to destruction. And especially in such conditions as. There is not only the impact of the shot itself and the chemicals released during it, but also the impact of adverse weather conditions in which the hunt takes place. Plus - errors. As a result, after a season or two, rust appears on the trunks, and even shells appear on the inside. There is only one way to return the original ideal appearance of the barrel - by thorough cleaning and bluing. How to make a gun barrel bluing yourself?

Metal bluing is a process when an oxide film is artificially applied to the barrel, which increases the protective properties of the metal. This simple procedure will not only significantly increase the service life of the gun, but also significantly improve it.

Rusty varnish for bluing

One of the most effective home methods is acid oxidation, or as it is also called “rusty varnish”. This is a special composition that promotes enhanced oxidation of steel and forms magnetic iron oxide.

To prepare “rusty varnish”, you need to take: technical hydrochloric acid (50 ml), carbon steel or cast iron shavings (30 g), concentrated nitric acid (54 ml), metal scale (20-30 g), and distilled water (1 l).

“Rusty varnish” must be prepared only in the open air and only while on the leeward side.

Otherwise, you may be poisoned by the gases released during cooking. You need to take a glass container, pour hydrochloric acid (50 ml) inside, add scale and cast iron shavings (one third), then add nitric acid (one third) to this mixture. We do everything very carefully; for protection you need a respirator, gloves, goggles, a robe or an apron.

“Rusty varnish” treatment

After some time, you will notice that the prepared mixture begins to turn green and bubble, releasing a brown gas and heat. When the mixture calms down a little and stops bubbling violently, add another third of nitric acid and the same amount of scale and chips. There will be an immediate resumption of the reaction, and then it will subside a little again. Then we throw in the remaining acid and shavings.

You will get a mass that is red in color. The main thing is to leave it in a sealed container for about 24 hours until it infuses. After just a day, pour distilled water into the mixture and that’s it. Your varnish is ready. It does not require any special storage conditions. When finished, this varnish is absolutely safe and can serve you for many years.

After you have done the “rusty varnish”, you should start preparing the metal surface. It is very important to sand it well and then polish it. For sanding we use coarse sandpaper, after which we begin to treat the surface with fine abrasives.

Having done this, do not forget to degrease the metal surface. To improve this process, it is worth considering the nature of the oils and fats you want to remove. To properly and thoroughly degrease the surface into the solution, add emulsifiers.

Such substances include “liquid glass”, this is the most common office glue.

Degreasing solutions (per liter of water)

Option 1

10-15 g sodium hydroxide (caustic water);

50-70 g trisodium phosphate;

30-40 g of calcined water;

3-5 g of liquid glass.

Option 2

If the trunks were soldered using tin solder, then the best option would be the following composition:

100-150 g of soda ash;

20-30 g of liquid glass.

Option 3

Wash the trunks thoroughly with laundry soap, and then treat them with a toothbrush or brush with a strong solution of potash (potassium carbonate), or a weak solution of caustic soda, or, in extreme cases, ordinary ash. Then rinse repeatedly in several waters, wipe dry and air dry for at least another half hour.

Option 4

You can also clean the trunk of fats and scale in this simple way - by thoroughly wiping it with a wet rag with sifted wood ash or chalk, then scalding it with boiling water and wiping it thoroughly with a dry, clean rag.

The process of bluing metal with “rusty varnish”

Or immerse any other metal part of it in a concentrated solution consisting of sodium nitrate. Heat almost to a boil. If you repeat twice, the black film will be 1.5 microns thick. Then we wash and dry. At the end we lower it into oil (temperature about 120 degrees). We heat the metal until it turns a crimson color, and then rub it thoroughly with the onion.

Regardless of the chosen bluing method, the temperature of the solution should always be at least 90 degrees, and the parts should be kept in the solution for 15-30 minutes.

To check at what stage the process is completed or not, take the barrel out. Take a closer look to see if the liquid evenly covers the barrel. The process is complete when the liquid no longer forms droplets.

After completing this process, we wash each part with running water, wipe it and dry it with a hairdryer. Then we begin to apply the “rusty varnish”. This must be done before a natural oxide film forms on the metal as a result of contact with air.

The trunks are coated twice: using a brush, apply varnish to the surface of the trunk, remove all excess, dry at a temperature of 40 to 60 degrees, then repeat the procedure again. To achieve high-quality bluing, do not touch the barrels with your bare hands. Once you dry the surface, it should turn a dark orange color.

Then comes the boiling process. You need to prepare a solution that contains pure water and nitric acid (1-1.5 ml of acid per 1 liter of water).

First, boil water in a container for several minutes, and then immerse the trunks there. It is best to hang them on strong ropes made of natural materials, tied to wooden sticks so that they hang freely in the bathtub without touching the walls or bottom. They need to be boiled for about 15 minutes in a boiling solution. The trunks will take on a velvety black hue. If you don't get a perfect black color the first time, don't be upset. Next time this defect will be eliminated.

The next stage is brushing. Using a round metal brush attached to a drill or sander, remove loose deposits until a shiny black film forms on the surface of the metal. Remember, you will need safety glasses to use the brush.

It is necessary to cover the trunks with “rusty varnish” at least eight times, that is, 4 boilings and 4 brushings.

After completing the last brushing process, we do the last thing - oiling. The trunks, which already have a uniform graphite color, are immersed for 5 minutes in a bowl into which machine oil or natural drying oil has been poured. In the case of machine oil, it must be heated to 110 degrees.

Steel bluing using hemp or machine oil, linseed oil

Oddly enough, you can bury metal quite easily at home using ordinary oils - this method is considered the simplest. To do this, the algorithm of actions is as follows: degrease the metal, wash it with a detergent, this will help make the bluing more even. Heat the metal on a gas stove until a brown color appears. And at the same moment we take a cloth, which we first soak in oil (vegetable or machine oil) and rub the surface. We heat the metal again to get rid of any remaining oil. The result is a radical black color. In the same way, you can blue other metal parts of the weapon.

Classic options are also used as a bluing liquid - linseed oil, hemp or linseed oil.

There is not much difference between them. Flaxseed oil is obtained by prolonged heating and cooking of linseed oil. This oil contains many unsaturated organic acids. Due to this, in air it oxidizes and polymerizes. It is not recommended to use synthetic drying oil for bluing.

Also, as an option - machine oil. Any oil will do: motor oil M8 or I20. You can use I-20 machining. Semi-synthetic oils, as well as synthetic ones, may give the wrong result; each of them must be checked separately. When using mineral oil or drying oil, the shade of bluing is almost the same. However, these coatings have different properties.

When heated, the surface of the iron is impregnated with mineral oil, charred, coked, and with the help of drying oil a more dense coating is formed on the surface of the barrel, it better protects against corrosion and holds better. This is due to the fact that due to oxidation by air, the drying oil on the surface of the steel “dries out”.

After the metal has been dipped into the liquid, wait a little and take the object out. The holding time depends on the thickness of the metal. If mineral oil was used, you will need to thoroughly wipe off any remaining oil using a cloth. While it is hot, it is easier to scrub off. If you took drying oil, then remove the stains and leave it to dry. Hot drying oil will dry much faster.

The bluing process is quite lengthy and labor-intensive, however, which has undergone this procedure, has excellent resistance to corrosion for a long time.

You can also buy ready-made compounds for bluing, among which “Clover” (Ballistol Klever-Schnellbrunierun) from the German manufacturer F.W. is recognized as the most effective. Klever GmbH.

Oxidation of trunks with liquid chemicals

This method is quite complex, almost industrial, but if you can get the reagents, the result will be simply amazing! Ingredients: for 10 liters of water – 13 g of mercury chloride, 5 g of copper sulfate, 300 g of solid ferric chloride, 8.5 g of diethyl ether, 170 g of ethyl alcohol, 170 kg of concentrated nitric acid. The solution preparation scheme is as follows: first dissolve mercury chloride in hot water (about 2 l). Next, the remaining salts are added to the resulting solution. Then add cold water to 10 liters, and then introduce nitric acid, alcohol and ether. The metal surface must be well degreased, otherwise it will turn out spotty. For such work, it is imperative to use personal protective equipment.

An ancient method of bluing barrels without tin soldering

This recipe is taken from the book “” Buturlin S.A., 1936. It is simple and very effective.

To do this, birch or aspen charcoal (coke baked into a fire) is pounded into powder, then sifted through a sieve. This powder is poured into a tin or other metal box (riveted only, no soldering!) and heated on the stove until sparks begin to run across the powder when stirred. Then the well-cleaned iron or steel parts of the barrel are placed in this powder. It is best to string them on a wire to make it easier to remove. The trunks should be completely immersed in the powder and covered with it, but not touch the bottom and walls of the box.

Video “Repair bluing of weapons”

Video on how to blue barrels with Clover

There is a misconception that it is impossible to perform, and this technical operation, in any case, should be performed only in production.

Currently, there are several different ways in which you can effectively deal with rusty metal at home.

This type of processing is necessary in order not only to make the metal more attractive.

With its help, the protective properties against corrosion are significantly increased.

Do-it-yourself steel bluing at home is distinguished by simpler methods of metal processing, which use improvised means.

At its core, this method of dealing with rusty metal involves applying a variety of coatings to the surface being treated, which form a thin protective film on it.

At home, this can be done using citric or phosphoric acid, as well as using varnish or oil from which a certain solution is prepared.

Of course, industrial technology allows for better processing, but some methods of dealing with rusty metal at home show quite good results.

In industrial conditions, the blackening of the top layer of metal is removed by changing its structural composition.

In addition, a protective coating is applied in a special way, providing high-quality protection against corrosion.

Using industrial methods to combat rusty metal at home is not only impossible, but also economically unprofitable.

Independent hot or cold coating is performed by applying some special compounds to the metal surface, which not only remove its blackening, but also form a thin protective film.

The means for bluing can be purchased at any specialized store, and in a fairly wide assortment.

Thus, bluing in saltpeter allows you to achieve a fairly high-quality result; in addition, a special pencil for bluing allows you to effectively remove the blackening from the metal.

In some cases, you can use orthophosphoric or citric acid, and also prepare a solution for treating stainless steel in oil.

Regardless of which technology - phosphoric acid, citric acid or oil - is chosen to combat rusty metal, the entire process can be divided into several separate stages.

First of all, the metal surface is thoroughly polished and cleaned. After this, degreasing is carried out, for which a special solution is used.

It should be noted that depending on the part, its technical characteristics, as well as the chosen method for bluing, certain nuances and subtleties may arise, but the general algorithm of actions always remains unchanged.

It should also be remembered that after degreasing the surface to be treated, it should not be touched, which means that all work is best done with rubber gloves.

Basic processing rules

Blueing is essentially a chemical treatment of metal surfaces, in which not only the blackening is removed, but also a protective layer is applied.

These works are classified as hazardous, and therefore must be performed in compliance with certain rules and under special conditions.

Since the solution used for bluing contains chemically active substances with acid, special containers must be used for it.

In addition, such processing of metal surfaces also involves mechanical work, which means it is necessary to have on hand appropriate means to protect the eyes and skin.

You should also perform metal processing in a room that is equipped with a ventilation system or has a powerful exhaust hood.

In the video posted above, you can see how such processing of metal surfaces should be carried out.

When working with acid and other chemical reagents, you should use only those containers that are made of earthenware, porcelain or glass.

Immediately before starting bluing, you should carry out a uniform and high-quality cleaning of the surface, and also completely remove traces of dirt and grease from it.

In this case, sandpaper, powdered pumice, and fine-grained sand can be used as processing material.

It should be remembered that the liquid contains a variety of chemical elements that, if used incorrectly, can harm the product.

You must also ensure that the solution used does not come into contact with the skin or eyes, as this can cause serious injury or burns.

Chemical oxidation treatment

Most often, metal surface treatment is carried out using chemical oxidation.

This method is quite effective and, if the technology is followed, allows you to achieve a high quality final result.

This method of bluing metal is based on the ability of the metal to oxidize.

At the preliminary stage, it is necessary to mechanically treat the surface of the workpiece, as well as completely degrease it.

After this, the appropriate solution should be properly prepared.

For these purposes, you should take a container of a certain size, which must be made of porcelain.

After this, the solution should be thoroughly mixed and ensure that all components are dissolved in it.

The resulting mixture should be heated to a temperature of about one hundred and forty degrees Celsius, and the workpiece should be immersed in it for about thirty minutes.

After the specified time has elapsed, the part is removed from the solution and thoroughly washed with distilled water.

The metal surface treated in this way will acquire a pronounced black tint with a blue tint.

If the bluing was done correctly and in accordance with the technology, the metal will become smooth and does not require subsequent polishing.

In the video posted in the section, you can see how a metal surface is treated at home using a chemical solution.

Using rusty varnish

Many people use a method for bluing metal that is called “blueing with rusty metal.” With it you can achieve a flat and smooth surface at minimal financial cost.

Its essence lies in placing the workpiece in a corrosive chemical environment.

As a result of this bluing, red and black iron oxides appear on the metal surface.

To remove the red deposits, use a brush with stiff metal bristles, leaving the black oxide behind. It should be noted that this processing method is quite lengthy, but effective.

In any case, first the metal is mechanically processed and degreased, and only after that the product is placed in a special solution.

The liquid for bluing with rusty varnish is prepared in special porcelain containers, and it is necessary to use products to protect the skin.

The solution in this case is prepared on the basis of hydrochloric acid.

It must be poured in a small amount into the prepared container and mixed with iron rust, metal filings and nitric acid.

After this, water and ordinary vodka must be added to the mixture in equal quantities.

The solution must sit for a certain time, after which it must be drained to remove scale and precipitated salts.

Other bluing methods

Very often, a special pencil for bluing is used for metal processing.

Before using a pencil for bluing, the metal surface is treated mechanically and then thoroughly degreased.

Such bluing of steel, if all technological requirements are met, is quite effective and allows you to obtain a smooth and even surface. It is also very common to get rid of corrosion with varnish.

As in all other cases, before treating the surface with varnish, it is treated by mechanical action.

When working with varnish or pencil, it is necessary to use special protective equipment so that the product used does not come into contact with the skin.

You can also perform the treatment by painting the metal surface with a solution called “Clover”.

This method of painting with Clover is quite effective with minor corrosion of the metal surface.

In this case, it is necessary to paint the treated surface with Clover as thoroughly as possible, several times.

The composition Clover is sold in special small tubes. The price of Clover also varies from place to place.

Clover has a gel consistency. The main advantage of using Clover is its ease of use.

Simply sand the part, then degrease it with gasoline, and then apply Clover. After a few minutes, when the gel is absorbed, rinse off the residue with water.

It is best to burnish heavily damaged metal with a solution of saltpeter.

To prepare a solution of nitrate, only stainless steel utensils should be used, and the skin must be protected from contact with the mixture.

As a result of bluing with saltpeter, the metal surface acquires a pleasant reddish tint, which is complemented by a slightly bluish tint.

A solution of nitrate for bluing is prepared from one liter of water and a small amount of sodium nitrate, as well as caustic soda.

This mixture has a rather pungent, pungent odor, and therefore it is better to use a respirator when working with it.

Aluminum Surface Treatment

The method of blueing aluminum is called anodizing and allows you to give the product an aesthetic appearance and completely remove traces of corrosion.

Currently, many different parts are made from aluminum, including those that are susceptible to corrosion and require cleaning by bluing.

As a rule, various acids are not suitable for processing aluminum, since in this case the part may be deformed and damaged.

In some cases, active acids can be used for aluminum, but only in small quantities, generously diluted with water.

The surface of aluminum can be burnished with varnish, but only in a certain way.

A solution prepared from a small amount of sulfuric acid, abundantly diluted in water, is quite effective in bluing aluminum.

The product must be placed in a special container, and then a lead plate connected to a twelve-volt battery must be placed in it.

After bubbles form in the solution, an aluminum part is placed in it for a certain time. After this, the aluminum part is removed from the solution and dipped into blue pigment paint.

This method of bluing aluminum is considered popular, but it is highly effective and allows the metal to be well protected from corrosion during further use.

The processing of any metal by bluing must be carried out in strict accordance with the chosen technology and in compliance with safety regulations.

The final result largely depends on the method of preparing the solution and the quality of the components used.

Some methods of bluing metal at home can be seen in the video posted above.