Homemade stock - from the butt plate to the trigger. Making rifle stocks DIY wooden stock for an air rifle
Galandec 24-01-2010 01:15
Comrades pneumatic ducts, customizers and others like them.
Let's share our own developments, photos of drawings or the drawings of pneumatic stocks that were made, that are made, that will be made, that are not destined to be born.
I suggest putting it in the form:
- for which rifle it is applicable, model.
- a drawing of the stock or a photo of a paper drawing (photo of the finished product if desired)
- comment - optional.
Those who support - thank you, those who don't - well... then look at the creations of others. And I will powder!!! posts are only relevant, without unnecessary fluff.
I start.
Stock for MP512
Galandec 24-01-2010 17:56
It looks like you understood exactly what I wrote. meh...
BlacKDeatH 24-01-2010 19:26
quote: Originally posted by Galandec:
Stock for MP512
butt is very massive
needs to be improved without affecting the ergonomics
and overall I really like it personally
Armageddec 24-01-2010 21:35
Why don’t you like the theme “Papa Carlo’s workshop”?? everything is there kmk
ober 03-02-2010 13:11
Makkari still remember
Lex_32 05-02-2010 18:29
Dear, are there still a couple of options for stocks for the 512 roll, I bought iron, I would like to make wood, I previously made the classic 512 myself, though from larch.
b4now 06-02-2010 19:53
For the "bun" layout Total two options, one is known under the name "edgan", the second under the name "hooligan"
Lex_32 07-02-2010 14:39
Sorry for the incompetence, but in firearms the bullpup arrangement corresponds to the weapon, the magazine and receiver are located behind the controls, i.e. The weapon is more compact than the standard model (eng. L-85, etc.). Speaking about the stock for MP 512, I meant that the controls were moved forward, the screw was shorter, and I was interested in how to make a specific stock. And I’m somehow used to considering edgun and hooligan as expensive (for me) PCP screws
b4now 07-02-2010 16:23
When talking about food and hooligan, I only meant the “half-woman” design.
The design of the roll for pneumatics is very (to put it mildly) undiversified.
No matter what you do with the stock, it will inevitably turn out to be either an edgan or a hooligan.
You'll see.
SternuM 08-02-2010 13:29
quote: Originally posted by b4now:
No matter what you do with the stock, it will inevitably turn out to be either an edgan or a hooligan. You'll see.
Why, you can use your imagination! And we get something like this:
and I tried to carabiner this IZH46. Even not very good, damn it =(
b4now 10-02-2010 01:28
Click on the bild inscriptions
An enchanting selection of factory stocks, click on the model names, clicking on the company name leads (most often) to the manufacturer’s website
SternuM 10-02-2010 02:12
MP-514KM, caliber-177/BB, charges-8/10, muzzle energy J-25, initial speed, m/s - 250
Have I missed something in this life?!
Lex_32 10-02-2010 16:12
Actually, this version of MP 514 was produced (is being produced) (pp. 310-311 Shunkunov V.N. “Gas and pneumatic weapons”, Minsk, 2004. In general, there are many inaccuracies in the book, but the info on MP514 has been verified, there is such a screw!
Ivars 24-02-2010 21:35
Today I come to you with my next homemade. There is such a very interesting device in our universe as pneumatic rifle. So I wanted one for myself. Yes, I wanted so much that I could at least climb the wall. I found a man who had a real rarity Izh38. Yes, the same gun that we all saw at the shooting range as children. You can see it in the photo:
On the right I'm with this very brain rifle!
Great invention of mankind. But it was difficult to use; there was a crack on the butt. Yes, and I’m a fan of Fallout and in general I decided to make a butt like in the third Fallout sniper rifle.
My advice to you, gentlemen. If you are planning to make a butt then first make a model of it from polystyrene foam, foam rubber, or even plasticine. The most important thing in a butt is when you take it rifle in hand then you immediately see and rear sight and front sight. You don’t need to look for it with your eyes and head movements, it should be right in front of you.
Once you've figured this out, you can move on to the form itself. To begin with, we decide how easier it is for us to hold the rifle itself, by the original handle or by the pistol grip. then we select the handle according to size. Despite all my efforts, I made it a little thicker than necessary for my hand; I could have sanded off the excess.
Next we figure out what we want to see on our rifle as butt, handles and forends. Personally, the approximate image went like a butt for me sniper rifle from the third fallout. And for the handle there was an original handle from SVD.
You may notice that I first outlined the original stock, then drew the handle from the SVD, and only then the stock from the sniper rifle. The work is long and tedious; you will have to redraw the sketch and cut the foam more than once. So be prepared to be deprived of nerves and time.
Unfortunately, I didn’t keep the following photos, but I picked up a 2 by 2 meter piece of birch plywood from a furniture store and took it home to saw.
I warn you right away: you will have to cut four layers of 10 mm each. We immediately cut the inner layer into the fore-end very thin, this is where the rifle itself will lie. Also, do not forget about the holes for the mounting screws. I was lucky, they both came from below and therefore it was enough for me to simply grind into in the right places file the places for future screws.
We glue everything together with the most common PVA glue, which you can get absolutely on a ball in any carpentry workshop. Or, as a last resort, buy it at a stationery store. The wood glues just perfectly.
After gluing, I advise you to add stiffeners. Let's go to grocery store and buy birch toothpicks from them. The diameter of the toothpick is 2 mm. We take a 2.1 drill and drill a dozen or more holes throughout the butt. Especially in the places where the mechanism itself is attached to the butt. coat the toothpicks with glue and insert them into the holes. We clean off the remains with sandpaper. And in general, when finishing, you will have to work hard with sandpaper, because all four parts will turn out similar, but certainly not the same. And the butt itself and the handle will need to be rounded.
This is what the first brain assembly of this brain butt looks like
What awaits us next is a tough one. sanding and filing. We simply, against all odds, remove the extra layer of plywood. An ordinary tree of this thickness might not have held up and would have broken under the load. But not plywood. It's really durable. Only if it is not pine, this is worth following first.
This is what the butt looks like after filing
Now we have to paint it. You can also varnish it, it’s all for everyone. Everyone does what he likes best. As a result, I inhaled paint in my room again (: 
This is the most common car primer
Since I didn’t have paint on hand at that time, I decided that it wouldn’t look bad either: 
And I used it like that for quite a long time. But as they say, chance (:
The rifle is in combination with me on the right
It seems to me that the white color suits it very well (: especially considering how many times I cut the sample again from foam plastic, when I raise the rifle to the firing position, it does not cling to anything, the fore-end fits comfortably in the second hand and the sight line is immediately before your eyes. With my rifle, I can aim before I raise the rifle to my shoulder. I know where the front sight will be.
We have a huge request to you, dear users of the site, do not under any circumstances use such devices to cause injury or simply shoot at living targets. Set up a shooting range on a hillock, shoot at empty bottles and targets. No need to shoot living creatures. You can answer for living beings to the fullest extent of the law. And your conscience will also torment you. But living people can punch you in the neck and take away your gun. With an exclusive butt that is dear to you (:
When using the Kral 002 rifle with a plastic stock, the stock burst in the area of the front mounting screws. I have been looking towards stocks with a pistol grip for a long time. It was decided to make a new box. When selecting the material and taking into account the fact that I have practically no tools for woodworking, I decided to make it from plywood. In the cutting I found SK brand plywood and made it from it. I decided to describe the development and manufacturing process here. Next, stock up on popcorn and read step by step:
Preliminary stage 1- I need to figure out how I would like to see the new bed. First, we sort through the images of a bunch of lies. I personally realized that I wanted something with a pistol grip that looked similar to Varya 100. I got it, opened Photoshop and started drawing.
If anyone didn’t recognize it - Kral upper
Let's get started Stage 2 - preparation of a sketch of the layout and patterns.
In Photoshop we make a contrasting copy of the outline of our future rifle
We set a Corelov tracer on it, while using the minimum number of nodes at which the picture is traced quite accurately and we get a sketch in curves.
We remove unnecessary nodes, by operations with subtraction/addition of objects we get an object consisting of only one object (initially also a window in the butt, for example, this is an additional object lying on top of the black butt), we get a relatively polished object. We begin to draw the stock, separating it with color (it is useful to save the sketch of the iron separately and leave it as a background for clarity of the development of the stock).
Well, this already looks like something
Stage 3 - take the dimensions of the iron insert.
As a rather lazy person, I took a photograph of the wooden bed for Kral and on the photograph drew the dimensions for top view, on it I also noted the depths of the samples - marked with squares (fortunately, I don’t have samples with curly complex profiles).
Stage 4 - development of patterns.
For convenience, I put a cheat sheet with dimensions in Corel along with the sketch of our bed. We transfer the 0 coordinate point to the upper leftmost point of contact of the iron with the bed (see the figure, the inset in the photo was measured relative to this point). Then we lay out the guides according to our sizes (the coordinates will now help us). We use rectangles with reference dimensions to mark the comfortable thickness of the handle and the distance to trigger(hereinafter referred to as SK) (they are transparent in the photo).
Next we draw the samples, for example in the photo above there is a cutout for the lever. Based on the width of the samples, we can plan the thickness of the layers of the bed. In my case, the central recess for the lever at the narrowest point is 18mm. recess for the lever roller - 5mm. From here I plan the layout in layers, in relation to the standard thicknesses of plywood sheets - central 18mm, 2 sheets of 6mm (there will be a cut there for cutting under the roller) and 2 sheets of 6mm along the edges. Total 5 layers 6+6+18+6+6 = 42mm. It should fit well in the hand, and it should also be enough for the butt (the thickness of the butt plate remaining from the strictly stock is just 42mm). Let's cut further
Using the guides, we draw what should be solid in the middle layer, then we draw a cutout for the support rollers of the cocking lever and in the end we get patterns for the layers, at the same time we can roughly estimate the costs of cutting
We print this disgrace on a 1:1 scale from Corel with a layout of several A4, glue it, cut it out, put the iron on top and admire it
After admiring it we move on to stage 5 - modeling Anyone who wants to immediately risk spoiling the plywood can then skip a certain amount of bookof
To begin with, we make a stock with a handle from katon or thick paper. We glue an improvised SC to it, as it should be. Let's apply ourselves. After that, I personally realized that I don’t like Varin’s tilt of the handle. I immediately added the insert and made the angle of inclination from the normal a little smaller. I tried it on and liked it. At the same time, I decided to make the lower part of the fore-end lower, for shooting while standing.
I adjusted the patterns according to my amendments. For convenience, everything is in one picture, only cropped after printing in 3 copies along different contours.
There is a transparent rectangle on the left for easy alignment on A4 sheets as I wanted, Corel without it tries to lay out the drawing a little differently.
We transfer our patterns to thicker cardboard. I left allowances when cutting. You can make 2 of each layer (this is not counting the fact that we have the outermost layers on both sides of the rifle, i.e. for them 4). Between 2 sheets of layer to create the required volume, we glue stacks of cardboard scraps until the required thickness is achieved (we glue the stack to only one pattern so that the second remains pristine). You can get by with just one part of each layer - adding the insert on the desired side. We collect the sandwich into a pile. To begin with, I tied it all together with laces or fastened it with clamps. Now we can apply the iron and see the flaws. If necessary, we tie the iron with laces (usually you don’t want to drop it).
Checking how the IC is located
The most important thing is that we can finally take a more or less realistic approach to the future stock!!! Hurray!!! If something is wrong, we trim the cardboard, removing allowances.
After this we can move on to stage 7 - plywood
Based on those very pristine patterns, as if using a template, we transfer the contours of the pattern onto the plywood. We remember that it has two sides - the face and the back. In addition, thin plywood (I have 6mm) comes with a bend in the sheet. I cut it so that after gluing all the layers, the two outermost 6mm layers lay face outward, while my plywood layers folded into a convex lens. Then it will crimp when gluing. We cut out and drill out all technological cavities, openings, etc. which will be inaccessible or inaccessible later, after gluing.
Stage 8 - sawing I'm not describing
I'll move on right away to stage 9 - gluing. To begin with, it is useful to compress all layers with clamps, align them correctly and place marks on the side surfaces for quick alignment when gluing. Be sure to put something under the clamps (thin plywood, thick cardboard) so that there are no dents on the surface.
First I glued the central layer and two inner ones. I glued it with epoxy (it is advisable to check it first). Don't forget to match the marks. Then, after polymerization, the remaining 2. After polymerization, we get a kind of bar for further processing. When gluing, we use the maximum clamps available from ourselves, friends and neighbors. Special attention We pay attention to the handle, butt and fore-end in thin places.
After gluing the inner layers, I wrapped a round mandrel of a suitable diameter with coarse sandpaper and pre-seated the iron. The layer thickness of 6+18+6 allows this to be done. Then we rub it in with fine sandpaper, in decreasing order, wrapped on our mandrel. At the same time, you can see how the support rollers are placed on the shelves. My iron was initially turned in the stock and I corrected this defect by seating it in a new stock. Therefore, such control was not superfluous.
We can measure the iron along the way
Stage 9 - processing. Where you need to remove a lot, you can go along the contour with a jigsaw. Where there is a lot of volume, I used, where possible, a small plane. Also for processing I used a set of Polish-Chinese files/rasps of unknown purpose. It’s incomprehensible - because they don’t reach normal rasps. For faster processing, I also used large parquet flooring with large sandpaper stuffed onto it on a fabric basis. Working like a rasp with a large surface, she managed to process everything quite quickly.
After preprocessing we get something like this
Actually, I already drilled holes for the iron mounting screws in the stock.
Now we apply ourselves, try, remove the unnecessary, bring it to perfection. I even tried to shoot along the way
It is convenient to treat round and complexly shaped areas with cloth-based sandpaper placed on round wooden mandrels.
Then we sand in descending grain order to the final surface condition. At the finish, from time to time we lift the pile by wiping it with a damp cloth until it disappears.
Next Stage 10 - painting/processing I lower it. There are many opinions here - it's up to you to choose.
I got it like this: 
This is what it looks like assembled in real life
In principle, the white bracket matches the white clip, but later I’ll try to make it black.
The center of gravity of Kral + Taska 6-24x50AOE is 16 cm forward from the SK.
It fits very comfortably in my hand, I’m glad that I came up with the idea at the last moment before painting to make horizontal grooves for the index and thumb - it feels especially comfortable in the palm of my hand. When I take it, I don’t even think about how to take it so that it’s comfortable - it’s immediately convenient, and you don’t even notice it.
The difference between the right and left sides is minimal, but it is there. I tried to make it so that both right-handed and left-handed people could shoot, but I’m still right-handed, and my comfort is more important. This also applies to the distance from the back of the pistol grip to the gun, the angle of the grip, the length of the butt, the length of the handle and the size of the recess for the palm.
So make a bed for your own hand - you will not regret the time spent and the labor invested.
Coated with Belinka toplasur #17 composition: alkyd resins, special pigments that absorb ultraviolet radiation, organic solvents and additives for thixotropy, waxes. Contains 2-Butanone oxime and cobalt salt of fatty acids. Here is another description: belinka toplasur long-term protection of wood Belinka Toplasur is a thick-layer azure coating. Creates a thick, compact coating on the surface that provides a high degree of protection for wood products used in extreme weather conditions. Contains UV filters. Belinka Toplasur does not contain biocides, which allows it to be widely used in residential areas. Belinka Toplasur gives the wood mechanical stability, which is especially important when painting hard joinery hardwood. Belinka Toplasur can be used to protect the surface parts of marine vehicles. Recommended for the protection of wood products used in coastal and mountainous regions. It gives the surface a silky gloss and does not hide the natural grain of the wood. Surfaces in wet areas and outdoors before painting Belinka Toplasur should be primed with Belinka Base impregnating composition. Composition Suspension of UV filters and absorbing substances, light- and weather-resistant pigments, water-repellent waxes in a solution of alkyd resins in a mixture of organic solvents. Application method: Brush, roller, spray, 2 layers (pre-prime surfaces in damp rooms and outdoors with Belinka Base). Consumption For two-layer coating 1 liter. /8-10 m2 (depending on the type and quality of wood, cleanliness of surface treatment and application method).
In light of the annual use of this stock, I would like to add that it is better to paint it with acrylic or epoxy-acrylic paint - it is more resistant to abrasion. It is better to immediately glue metal washers into the holes of the iron fastening screws so that the plywood does not slip from tightening to tightening.
Good luck to you in this rather dusty but exciting business.
We present a master class on making a stock SV- 98 from ACW. All methods and techniques of work are optimized for the “enthusiast”; only simple tools will be used “ home handyman» jigsaw, manual frezer, belt sander, hand drill, rasp and chisel. You will learn: how to cut and assemble a slab under an aircraft plywood bed; how to protect the forend from splitting and “driving”; how to get exact shape cross sections; how to achieve maximum compliance with the combat prototype.
So, our task is to produce a stock that is accurate in geometry for the airsoft model of the SV- rifle 98 with a skeleton butt.
The original uses only high-quality aircraft plywood, glued with SFZh resin, grade BS- 1 . Such plywood is 2 times lighter than ordinary birch (FK, FSF), but is very durable and slightly susceptible to deformation when humidity changes. In its production, only the highest quality birch veneer is used. We choose this plywood.
The drawings in AutoCAD have been received, the sheets can be cut. The thickness of the forend is 50 mm, the thickest plywood is BS- 1 on sale - 20 mm, so you will have to glue a slab of 3 sheets. We make rough markings, adding 1 cm to the length and height, for further precise processing after gluing the slab. For optimization technological process We will make 2 stocks, the time is the same as one, taking into account the time for changing tools and fixing them in a vice and clamps. We will need 3 blanks of 20 mm per 1 stock. Only 6 parts.
Such plywood, heavily impregnated with resin, is difficult to saw, I recommend using only high-quality Bosh jigsaw consumables, or a band saw at high speeds. There are opinions on the Internet that the plywood stock of the SV- 98 Over time, you will definitely realize that this is a mistake by Izhmash, and it’s correct to make the cradle out of plastic. I cannot agree with this opinion; with proper assembly and high-quality impregnation with special compounds, the lodgement is protected from atmospheric conditions, and the aircraft plywood itself, when gluing, is impregnated with resin so that it can hardly be called a wood material. Plywood of such thickness cannot be broken, and its significant viscosity absorbs the loads well during a shot.
Let me remind history buffs that the ancient Romans used large rectangular shields (scutum) made of plywood (ash with hide glue). Plastic is used in the West in stock making to reduce the cost and speed up production; a molding machine produces 300 spoons per day. Cheap, standardized product. By the way, plastics are also subject to temperature deformation and tolerate cold very poorly. In addition, such a stock is absolutely unsuitable for repairs in field conditions, (you can only wrap it with tape), and a plywood stock, even broken in half, can be repaired by a savvy partisan using a penknife and fish glue in one evening. Finally, the plywood is warm, feels good to the shooter, and is lighter than an ABS stock with an aluminum frame.
Nevertheless, in order to reassure those who are afraid of temperature deformations, we will use a special method of gluing the forend “in a box” at 90 degrees. This will also protect the handguard from delamination. To do this, shorten the central part of the plate to the point of the edge of the magazine nest and glue 40 by 20 mm lamellas in opposite layers.
We begin to glue the slab, part 2 to the third. You should use only high-quality wood glues with a water resistance class of at least D 3 . Epoxy, polyurethane, aliphatic resins. In this case, we glue with Titebond 3, press concrete slab 17 kg. Exposure 12 hours.
So, the plates are glued together. You can start roughly sawing out the shape, cutting off excess thickness with a chisel. Let's start with the butt. First, at the point of transition from the butt to the fore-end, at the point minimum thickness Using a router we make an 8 mm groove on both sides, resulting in a butt thickness of 42 mm.
Now we need to choose the thickness of the plate, up to 51 mm for the fore-end and 42 for the butt. This operation is performed in a surface planer and on a band saw, but we will take advantage of the features of the material and make do with one chisel. The thickness of one layer of veneer in aircraft plywood is 1.48 mm, therefore, by cutting 3 layers on each side of the board (the outer layer is sanded, 0.6 mm), we obtain a thickness of the forend of 51 mm.
The method is shown purely for informational purposes. With a forend thickness of 50mm, I usually remove 10mm of thickness (8 layers) from the central part before gluing the plate. For the time being, we also remove 3 layers on the butt so that a “step” does not form. interferes with sawing with a jigsaw. A sharp chisel at the right angle cuts normally. We grind with a LSM 80 grit.
We also grind the upper plane for precise marking with a square and reference it to the barrel line in the future.
Now you can cut out the rough contour with a tolerance of 4 mm for further processing with a rasp. Next, cut out the holes for the fingers using a feather drill at high speed.
Now we mill the grooves on the forend using rip fence and a slotted semicircular cutter f15, depth 6 mm. The rip fence ensures the same distance from the barrel on both sides of the 2 spoons. This cheap household router comes complete with a rip fence and a copy ring; you can also make a rip fence yourself by taking an M rod 8 . We mark only the beginning and end of the groove.
Also, using the same cutter, we cut out a valley to fit a 24 mm barrel, i.e. +2 mm in width to what is already there (the slot on the central part of the plate is 20 mm), to the level of the beginning of the handle (the rear cut of the receiver), we do not change the depth, 6 mm should come exactly to this point.
Now we are preparing to cut out the skeletal butt, using a straight groove cutter we cut a 12 mm groove on both sides in the line of the butt hole, we also remove the thickness at the transition of the handle to the butt. The upper beam of the butt, on the left side, goes to zero with a rounding towards the top. This kind of milling can be done by screwing the edge of the router sole through the technical hole to the support block and moving the cutter in a circle. We will attach the sole to the upper edge of the cheek pad; its thickness will be 40 mm, so the channel of the screw will be cut off.
We cut the edges of the handle at 45 degrees, now you can try the spoon on your hand. Log. Well, it’s not our place to criticize the ergonomic solutions of Izhmash, our task is to comply with the combat prototype. It's time to make a hole in the butt. We start by drilling the corners of the hole with a feather drill, then cut it out with a jigsaw. We subtract 3 mm from the net dimensions of the hole for further finishing with a rasp, because any jigsaw has some cutting angle. The butt has a special belt fastening element, a 12 mm stand. It is correct to make it by milling according to a template with a copy sleeve (many household routers have it in their kits), or an overrunning cutter, but I will do it with free milling for speed. Semi-circular slot cutter.
Now that the rough sawing and milling of the butt have been completed, we will no longer need the supporting layers (on which the tool rested during the work process), we can cut them with a chisel until we obtain the correct thickness of the butt - 40, 37, 24. For now, we will roughly cut the places of smooth descents into 3 steps. We will also correct it a little with a jigsaw in a vertical position.
So, the last stage of rough work lies ahead; it is necessary to carefully grind the lower surface of the forearm with a blade, and ensure an angle of 90 degrees to the side surfaces. We'll also film extra material to the correct fore-end height. Careful sanding is necessary at this stage because... the surface will serve as a support for the bearing of the molding concave cutter. After grinding, we overtake the forends with a molding concave cutter, removing a semicircular chamfer. We slightly correct the shape of the windows for the fingers with a groove cutter.
Clean work. Let's start finishing with a rasp. This is the most labor-intensive stage of work, but it is not very difficult if you take into account two rules: do not sharpen “towards” the plywood layers (it may chip) and, when leveling, sharpen in the direction of 45 degrees to the layers, with a small angle.
First we will process the butt so that we can cut off the cheek pad. The photo of the original shows that on the right side of the butt there is a pattern of 9 semi-lunar stripes, dark and light. What does it mean? Such stripes are obtained by cutting layers of plywood at a small angle; darker ones are perpendicular to the direction of light. If we achieve the same pattern on the product, then the geometry of the butt is made perfectly, and without any drawings. (But, of course, only if we use a layered material, and exactly the same as in the original.) We start from the highest point on the edge of the butt, achieve the correct semicircle, always keeping the rasp at the same angle. The layer stripes “creep” into the correct position. Add 1 mm to the size of the pattern stripes for further sanding.
This method of “fishing in layers” is very useful for the “enthusiast”. When assembling the GOL-sniper stock (), it was he who helped give the fore-end the correct narrowing at the top and end by 2 mm, which is very difficult to notice in the drawings and take into account in the development. 
Finally, the handle. Here it is better to navigate “by hand”, whether it lies or does not lie. You can wear a glove if the fighter uses one. In the recesses we use a drill bit. This is a budget-friendly, neat method, and it is correct to use sloping chisels and high-quality cranberries (Pfeil, Kirschen, 1.5 thousand rubles each), but an inexperienced master with a chisel may go too deep. Therefore, rasp. It will take a whole day to process one stock.
Long grinding ahead P 80 P 120 P 200 , manually. I use a strip of belt sander for rough sanding. It is convenient to sand rounded surfaces by stretching the tape with two fingers. Fine sanding using 120 paper, folded into three.
Let's distract ourselves with the cheek pad. Its shape is simple, the only thing is that you need to chop off the excess thickness with a chisel, to the pure thickness of the butt. The photo suggests (using the “layers” method) that the cheek pad narrows towards the front and up. Let's do it with a grinder, round the edges with a rasp, and you can start installing the bushings of the adjusting screws using Poxipol or other quick-setting epoxy adhesive (for example, “bison” in a syringe). Bushings will be M 8 (outer diameter 10), drill with a 10.5 mm drill to leave space for glue.
In this case, steel ceiling anchors are used, it is necessary to cut 3 mm from the expanding edge and remove the pin so that the cheek pad adjustment screw can pass through the bushings if the cheek pad is set to the minimum height. We will cut out the insert for the cheek pad from plexiglass and sand it for painting. The slots on the insert allow you to quickly slide it into place.
Now you can cut a hole in the belt mounting post and the slots for the cheekpiece screws. Everything is usual here, we drill 10.5 mm, cut it with a jigsaw. The cheek pad bushings should fit and move freely in the grooves, allowing the cheek pad to be adjusted from right to left.
Before finishing sanding, it is necessary to glue in the bushings for screwing on the carrying handle, bipod and front swivel. For the “enthusiast” I would recommend an indispensable household item for high-quality drilling – the “Caliber” drill guide. It is cheap, but very convenient - not only for small jobs, but, say, it will help when adding holes for confirmation in a chipboard cabinet, and when drilling walls made of light materials with a spear, and when installing drywall.
We will apply an anti-slip texture to the handle - according to Izhmash, these are dots in a simple edging. The edging can be cut with a joint knife, and the dots can be filled with the head of a finishing nail driven into a stick; there are no difficulties here. I'll use a Dremel with wood burrs. Izhmash does the same; blackening the handle is necessary to hide the scorch marks from the burr. Over this texture, you can subsequently apply a comfortable rubber band made of elastomer.
After preparing the seats, the stock was varnished in 3 layers with Italian varnish Sayerlack EZ 8050 .
Plumber 05-01-2008 19:16
I've wanted air for a long time. A real one - made of iron and so that it looks like a real rifle and not some kind of IZH-53. The 53 is also good, but a pistol is not a rifle and for me this was the decisive argument. The idea of an upgrade came long before the appearance of the vintar; I searched a lot on the Internet about this and there I saw something that made me lose my peace. These SUCH were homemade stocks. Of course, then I bought a Murka and remade its insides according to standard scheme(according to GOST, so to speak), but the fierce desire to have a single bed did not leave me for a second, and the appearance of this very same one was only a matter of time (I had no doubt about that).
The epic was scheduled for the summer of 2007, studying no longer took up time and I got down to business. Appearance I determined for myself a long time ago - like a “vintorez”. I sketched out the dimensions (I just circled the iron with a pencil) and the shape on whatman paper.
Then it wasn’t all so happy: I didn’t find the required blank of the required size made of walnut, beech, or at least birch (the option of cutting down the tree wasn’t very satisfying) in Barnaul, although maybe I wasn’t looking for it well... But the desire to create a masterpiece was so great that I was ready I was even able to plan from pine; for this I stole a pine board from a construction site. At home, realizing that nothing good would come out of this board, he took radical measures, i.e. I bought a 12mm thick sheet of moisture-resistant birch plywood from a construction store. The next step was to search the necessary tool, I couldn’t get the most necessary one (a free jigsaw), but I didn’t lose heart and cheerfully rushed to the store to buy a normal manual jigsaw. It was only later that I realized that the jigsaw was invented by the devil so that life would not seem like honey to people. In short, I'm all for sawing plywood with this infernal unit. The result was four similar blanks (they can’t be called identical). In two of them, the size of whatman paper, I cut out grooves for iron. I must say that selecting for iron turned out to be not as difficult as I expected.
Next it was necessary to glue the blanks and I started gluing. I didn’t bother with the choice of glue, I took epoxy. I read on the forum that it is necessary to specially prepare plywood, etc. I'm lazy, so I just wiped off the sawdust with a rag and put all four blanks on the epoxy at once. I must say that after choosing a jigsaw, this was my second big mistake. I later realized that it was necessary to glue each layer of the workpiece in turn, and so I got tired of tightening them with clamps (by the way, very useful thing, without them I wouldn’t have glued it properly) and I ended up covered in resin and messed everything around, it’s good to at least lay newspapers on it.
As time passed, and the resin hardened, the question arose - how to remove all these snot sticking out of all the cracks, and even the blanks, cut out with love with a jigsaw, were, to put it mildly, not the same. It became clear that we needed to level it out. Therefore, I visited a construction store and, in a consumer frenzy, bought: a semicircular rasp, a rectangular rasp, a semicircular chisel and an ordinary flat chisel, and there are little things. The rasp removed all the cob at once and leveled the crookedly sawn blanks, it turned out very well. Now it was necessary to reduce the thickness of the butt, I decided to reduce it with a chisel (I had never held it in my hands before), for the first time it turned out tolerable, only a couple of times the unit jumped off and as a result the thickness decreased to a critical value. In short, it turned out that I reduced the thickness by about 24mm (the thickness of two blanks).
So, everything was sanded down (to rough) and the question arose about the butt plate. Of course, I thought about him even before I started using a chisel on the butt. I went around all the gun stores, but they sell standard teardrop-shaped butt plates, and the price for a piece of rubber is 500 and 1000 rubles. Of course, there are cheaper copies, but they don’t look like a fountain, and the expensive ones are no different. I needed a rectangular shape with rounded corners. I decided to do it myself, at first I wanted it from 5mm brass, then I went into the garage and came across an elastic band from skis, “EUREKA, damn it,” I shouted and ran home with the elastic band.
The darkest stage of work for me was approaching. It was necessary to impregnate, smear, rub, in short, make a protective coating. In desperation, I scoured the entire forum; there were many methods of protection, but what was alarming was that they were all multi-step, long and confusing. I repeat, I’m lazy, so I needed something like a magic ointment, which I smeared on the stock and in five minutes go and shoot. There was hope for Tru-Oil, but no one had even heard of this thing in Barnaul.
Then I made a strong-willed decision to do it according to the super method (http://talks.guns.ru/forummessage/24/259377.html). I stocked up with epoxy, acetone, black markers, wax, turpentine and rosin. That is, I firmly decided to make the bed a seasoned gray color.
Then everything was like with Ilf and Petrov - the radically black color turned suspiciously red, but there was nowhere to retreat and I smeared with what I had. It turned out well and I smeared the entire bed with all my heart.
Then came impregnation with linseed oil.
And global waxing.
So, let me summarize what I learned for myself while making the first plywood stock:
- plywood is an excellent material, forgives a lot of mistakes, durable, easy to process;
- a jigsaw destroys nerves and time at once;
- a jigsaw is a mega-device (although I have never used it);
- a semicircular rasp is a gift from the gods, it is omnipotent;
- if I had gotten a jigsaw and glued the workpieces together correctly, then the work would have been half as much and this is not an exaggeration.
ViTTaliy 05-01-2008 19:34
Well done! cool, but considering that it’s the first time...
give us the finished product soon!
GraySaint 05-01-2008 19:57
As a result, despite the different color and the excessively thinner butt, I was extremely pleased.
Do you have a photo of the assembly?
for the first time - wow, it looks very nice. without unnecessary decor, everything is to the point.
Plumber 05-01-2008 20:04
GraySaint 05-01-2008 20:31
quote: Originally posted by Plumber:
By the way, this is roughly the color I wanted ;-)
I had to take a slightly different marker, they are different colors of black, some are cast in red, others in grey colour. you need to try.
Max Sniper 05-01-2008 20:31
A crutch with a crutch... Made carefully, but there is no weapon aesthetics. If there are minimal defects in the butt, then the forend is simply a piece of wood. Purely my IMHO as a person close to weapons trees, no offense.
GraySaint 05-01-2008 20:33
A crutch with a crutch...
you have to start somewhere.
Max Sniper 05-01-2008 20:40
quote: Originally posted by GraySaint:
you have to start somewhere.
That's why I ask without offense
theSkyL1ne 05-01-2008 22:14
I really liked it, especially the color.
Try adding lead weights to the butt for balance - it will be absolutely beautiful
Plumber 05-01-2008 22:15
quote: Originally posted by Max Sniper:
A crutch with a crutch...
The trick is that I intended it this way from the very beginning. The handguard was made as strong as possible (I am not particularly neat) and, so to speak, repeating the style of the butt. Although my brother also says that it’s a cudgel. But you can safely go into hand-to-hand combat :-)
prelude 06-01-2008 20:06
maybe make decorative selections on the forend........
everything will be more lively
knifemen 07-01-2008 23:05
Great job! I caught fire myself! I found whatman paper and a pattern. I think I'll start on Monday. I have a hatsan 125 - shaitan paddle, I need to dress it up accordingly! I’m sitting right now looking at him and...... I think it’s worth a try!
ZlH 08-01-2008 03:03
hehe, the stock is great for the first time, I won’t do it the 10th time either..
But do you think anyone will remember the bed itself?..
But FINGER will be remembered for a long time......
Storag 09-01-2008 13:58
Well, it’s not the gods who burn Normalek’s pots. The trigger guard is too wide; it would be nice to make it thinner, otherwise it’s not very comfortable for the finger. IMHO.
jaan 10-01-2008 12:17
Even with the markers it really is a bit of a mess lately, I also came across one that looked like it was black, but after drying it turned blue, I had to sand it off, the others were black and dried up black.
Plumber 10-01-2008 11:57
quote: Originally posted by jaan:
Even with the markers it really is a bit of a mess lately, I also came across one that looked like it was black, but after drying it turned blue, I had to sand it off, the others were black and dried up black.
I did 3 samples:
- black gave black color
- red-gave red
- the brown one turned green as a result.
This is incidentally related to the question of what should have been tried (as advised above).
This is such a squiggle.
toha_t 18-01-2008 13:29
It turned out great! I have an electric jigsaw, a mini-grinder, and in general a bunch of tools. But hands grow out of your ass, and there is zero imagination. I want to plan a bullpup for Diana52. But I can’t figure out how to do this. I thought maybe there were some drawings, but there weren’t.
ober 20-01-2008 23:53
GraySaint 21-01-2008 12:18
quote: Originally posted by ober:
Won't it break around the middle finger on the handle?
why? This is plywood, it has layers across each other. will never break, it's not an array.
Mikha_A 21-01-2008 08:05
2 knifemen
Yeees! Conceptually! It looks interesting, of course, but I'm afraid it won't be very convenient to shoot from this blaster. The crap at the bottom of the pistol grip will probably get in the way, and the heel of the butt is very wide (in the sense of high)
It will be interesting to see the finished device!
2 Plumber
Excellent execution! But the shape and ergonomics of the stock are questionable. Although, of course, everything depends on the anthropometric (what a word!) data of the shooter and the type of sight. By the way, what scope will the rifle have?
Plumber 21-01-2008 08:05
I've seen a lot of photos of different lodges, but this is the first time something this unusual. A stock in the Gothic style is not a big deal, and the rivets only complement the picture. After such a native Khatsan’s paddle is really a kayak paddle. I immediately remembered the “holy” shotgun from the film Konstantin, and Painkiller.
Plumber 21-01-2008 08:14
quote: Originally posted by Mikha_A:
2 knifemen
2 Plumber
Excellent execution! But the shape and ergonomics of the stock are questionable. Although, of course, everything depends on the anthropometric (what a word!) data of the shooter and the type of sight. By the way, what scope will the rifle have?
I have quite long fingers and have no problems with the grip, the wide trigger guard does not interfere, and the length of the butt also turned out to be optimal. As for the sight, it’s most likely optics (tasko 4X20, for something worth the money not yet), although I often shoot from the open.
DeFocus 29-01-2008 10:54
Is this slot needed to pull out nails?))
z.y. out of ammunition - no problem! pull out the nail and FIRE on the frag!
koka4759 09-03-2008 10:38
The main thing is that it is comfortable and applicable. I cut the butt plate twice and adjusted the cheek twice. If the cheek is fine, then the butt plate is a little less so. I still can’t understand the reason.
Foxtrot 10-03-2008 10:58
I really don’t like working with wood, especially those made for iron.
I really liked this method. My first one was made by hand from start to finish. Stock from Yavra. Waugh suffered. I'll try to make one out of plywood.
And on the CF30, the GP stock was flared into splinters. Now it will be like a bun with a plywood butt. I can already imagine what it will look like.
Much respect to the plumber.
