Propagation of ficus by cuttings - how to cultivate a flower of family well-being? How to root a ficus - rules and useful recommendations. Possible problems when growing bonsai.

Ficus is an evergreen plant with a developed root system; it grows quite quickly in size, has neat one-dimensional leaves and a trunk of a specific shape. Thanks to these qualities, ficus can be quickly formed into a bonsai, the care of which is simple. At home, the most common thing is to create bonsai with your own hands from ficus Benjamin, microcarp, carica, panda, rubber and others.

DIY ficus benjamina bonsai at home

Bonsai is the ancient art of “miniaturizing” trees, which in natural conditions grow up to several tens of meters in height, and shaping their appearance. Now it is associated with Japan, but in fact its homeland is China. The Japanese became the popularizers and “importers” of this original and sophisticated “hobby” of Chinese aristocrats who were engaged in growing mini-trees more than 2000 years ago. In the homeland of classic bonsai, ficuses are not used as “raw materials”, but for a beginner this is a good option.

Pot and soil

Translated from Chinese, “bonsai” means “grown in a tray.” A bonsai pot bears little resemblance to a regular container for flowers, but rather resembles an almost flat bathtub on legs. The legs, by the way, are quite high - 10–15 cm. A prerequisite is the presence of several drainage holes (at least one with a diameter of about 1 cm for every 10 cm² of bottom area) and a tray. The optimal depth is no more than 4–5 cm with a tree height of 25–30 cm.

Maximum nutritious fertile soil for bonsai is not the best choice. They need a light substrate that allows moisture and air to pass through well. In their homeland, special “granulated” red akadama clay is used to grow miniature trees. In specialized stores you can find a special mixture for palm trees or mulberries. An alternative is soil prepared with your own hands:

• Peat chips or fertile loam, coarse river sand, powdered clay (1:1:1).
• Leaf soil, small pebbles or expanded clay (no more than 3 mm in diameter), perlite or vermiculite, leaf humus (6: 4: 2: 1).
• Powdered clay, sand, leaf humus (6:3:1). You can add a little powdered pine bark (10–15% of the total volume of the finished mixture).
• Soil for palm trees or ficuses and any “baking powder” - perlite, vermiculite, sand (3:1).

Important nuances

In order for the bonsai to look organic, you need to know about some of the inherent features of the ficus:

• In nature, ficuses often grow in rocky soil and even on rocks, sending roots into the smallest crevices between them. You can try to recreate an authentic habitat - the aerial roots produced by the plant look very original.
• If stones are used in the composition, they must be coated with a thin layer of a mixture of soil and powdered clay before placing them under the roots. The correct mass has a creamy consistency. This will help secure the roots without using rope or wire. It is advisable that the stone is not smooth, rolled in water. It is easier for the plant to cling to small cracks and irregularities. The size of the stone is selected depending on the size of the plant and the length of its roots (they must be placed in the ground).
• Only real virtuosos can give the Benjamin ficus the desired shape by wrapping it with wire, since the shoots of the plant are quite easy to break. But pruning gives good results.
• The upper part of the ficus roots should not be covered with moss, pebbles, soil, and so on.

Suitable style

The canonical art of bonsai involves the formation of a tree in strict accordance with one of the selected styles. For ficus benjamina, the following are best suited:

• The simplest option, an eternal classic. It is recommended to start with it for those who do not have even minimal knowledge and experience in this area. The tree has an upright trunk and a gradually tapering crown in the shape of a pyramid. The lower part of the trunk is bare. Visible thick roots are required.
• The trunk bends smoothly in 2-3 places. In order to form a bend, thin ropes are enough. The leaves and trunk must be located strictly within the projection of the pot, in an air cylinder or parallelepiped.
• It seems as if the tree was torn out of the ground by a storm. The trunk is strongly inclined to one side, overhanging the edge of the container or even hanging over it. On the other side, roots turned out of the ground are visible.
• The trunk bifurcates into unequal parts, starting from ground level. For beginners, achieving such a configuration is quite difficult. The main problem is to find a balance between the height and thickness of the “parent” and “child” trunks. But since ficuses grow well together, you can use a trick by planting two plants in one container.
• The plant resembles a broom. Ideally, the branches should be almost symmetrical, diverging from the trunk to the sides. It sounds quite simple, but it is far from true.
• Up to five ficus plants of different ages are planted in one container, forming a small “grove”. It is desirable that they differ in the thickness of the trunks. You can use plants of the same species or different ones.

Photo Gallery: Bonsai Styles Suitable for Ficus Benjamin

Tekkan style is a classic, it is recommended to start with a short one for those without experience in growing bonsai Moyoga style has smooth curves It seems that the shakang style bonsai suffered from a natural disaster. Bonsai sokan - like “parent” and “child” The simplicity of symmetry inherent in the Hokidachi style is apparent, it is difficult to achieve. A yoseue style grove of different types of ficus looks very impressive

Video: what a ficus bonsai looks like

Planting a tree

When replanting ficus Benjamin, purchased in a store, you need to wait 12–15 days, allowing the plant to adapt to the new conditions. The personally rooted cuttings are planted 2–2.5 months after the planting material gives the first roots.

Planting procedure and further care - step-by-step master class

1. Cut several apical cuttings 8–12 cm long from a healthy ficus, treat the cut areas by sprinkling them with crushed chalk or activated carbon. Dry for 2-3 hours. Typically, the cutting has 3–4 leaves and 1–2 growth points, from which the plant will later produce aerial roots.
2. Place the cuttings in water or a solution of a root formation stimulator (Epin, Kornevin, Topaz, Heteroauxin, potassium humate). If necessary, trim off the lower leaves.
3. Provide a constant temperature of 25–27ºС, bright light. If possible, use bottom heating.
4. Cover the bottom of the selected bonsai container with a special fabric, similar to a mesh with small cells (2–3 mm). Pour coarse river sand (layer thickness about 0.5 cm) and substrate (no more than 2.5–3 cm) onto it.
5. Place the plant in the right place, placing a small stone under the roots, carefully straighten them and sprinkle them with soil, forming a low hill. The soil layer does not reach the top edge of the pot by 1–1.5 cm. Lightly compact the soil. The root collar should be located at ground level. Choose a stone that resembles natural rock as much as possible. A piece of brick or a piece of decorative cladding panel is absolutely not suitable.
6. Water the ficus well, and after 25–30 minutes drain the excess moisture from the pan.
7. If you plant several cuttings in a pot, they can be intertwined before the trunks become woody. This will not cause any harm to the plants. To consolidate the result, tie the ficuses in the right place, placing a thick soft cloth under the rope or twine. To speed up the process of fusion of cuttings, remove a layer of bark about 0.5 mm thick and use a special spray.
8. When the ficus plants have taken root well (after about 4 months), begin to gradually rake away the soil from the roots, gradually exposing them. This will not harm the plant. The older the ficus, the more unnoticeable the procedure is for it.
9. When the tree grows to the desired height (in about six months), pinch the top and begin to form the crown.
10. If desired, you can decorate the pot with moss, colored pebbles, decorative stone figures, oriental symbols, without covering the inverted roots. But you shouldn't get carried away. An abundance of decorations inevitably distracts attention from the tree itself and is not welcomed by Japanese tradition.

Proper pruning and other nuances of tree care

How to trim and shape the crown?

Pruning is a procedure without which it will not be possible to make a bonsai from Ficus Benjamin. They usually start with aerial roots, giving them the desired shape, regularly cutting off the main trunk of the plant. Because of this, it begins to increase in diameter, the crown grows in breadth, the roots thicken and partially protrude from the ground.

You can begin to form the crown only when the trunk reaches the required thickness. Since Ficus Benjamin intensively forms green mass, it needs to be pruned at least once every six months. Each branch on which 8–10 new leaves have appeared is shortened so that 2–4 leaves remain. Pruning is done from bottom to top. The juice released at the cut site does not need to be washed off.

To minimize stress to the plant, use only sharp, disinfected scissors with blades that are not too long, cutting branches perpendicularly without leaving stumps. When the released juice thickens, lubricate the “wounds” with garden varnish.

Under no circumstances should you cut off just the leaves. A “bald” bonsai with bare branches sticking out in different directions looks, without exaggeration, terrible. In addition, the remaining leaves may turn brown.

Do not overdo it when trimming leaves - a “bald” bonsai does not look very attractive

The best time to remove a significant amount of green mass is early spring, before the active growing season begins. Then, until autumn, you can carry out small “routine repairs”, removing individual poorly located branches or correcting the direction of their growth. From mid-October until the end of winter, Ficus Benjamin is not pruned - this is too much stress for a plant that needs a period of rest.

The shape of the trunk must be given as carefully as possible. The best option is to use a thin rope or twine, tying the necessary branches to the base of the tree or to another support.

If you still decide to use wire, take the thinnest one available, with insulation and be sure to place a soft cloth under it. Do not wrap ficus benjamina with wire immediately after transplantation, wait 3-4 weeks. Move strictly from the bottom up from the base of the trunk. When the plant is able to maintain the desired shape (after 1.5–2 months), carefully cut the wire and remove it. There is no need to even try to unwind it - you will almost certainly break off the branches.

Those who are confident in their abilities can try to “correct” nature by transplanting one or more shoots of other species onto Ficus Benjamin. Some craftsmen manage to transplant even aerial roots.

Video: trunk formation and pruning of ficus benjamina bonsai

Important care details

Ficus bonsai is cared for in the same way as a normal sized plant. It also needs watering, increasing air humidity, and regular fertilization. Creating optimal conditions for the plant is no less important than caring for it.

For harmonious development, it is advisable to provide at least 12 hours of daylight. During the active growing season, if there is not enough natural sun, use special phytolamps. For autumn and winter, avoid lighting.

Choose a place for your bonsai immediately and forever. Ficus reacts poorly to movement, abruptly dropping leaves. Make sure that the pot is not in a draft. Ensure a constant temperature of 18–25ºС, try to avoid sudden changes. 15ºС is the survival threshold for Ficus Benjamin.

Any bonsai is watered quite moderately so as not to cause root rot. Ficus Benjamina is no exception. Use rain, melt or well-settled water. It is advisable to pass the latter through a filter or soften it with several crystals of citric acid. To ensure that the soil is saturated with moisture evenly, water is sprayed onto the bonsai from a fairly large height using a spray bottle. Thus, at the same time you moisten the crown of the tree. Miniature ficus is watered daily or once every 2 days (depending on the temperature and humidity indoors and outdoors) as soon as the top layer of soil is completely dry.

The dense, fleshy leaves of the ficus help it endure the dry air of modern apartments, but for rapid growth and harmonious development, it is recommended to increase the air humidity in the room using affordable methods. This is a necessary condition for the appearance of aerial roots, which give the bonsai originality.

If there is no winter garden or greenhouse in the house, a good place for a mini-ficus is the kitchen. The air humidity there is higher than in other rooms.

Bonsai are fed with fertilizers only during the active growing season, from early spring to mid-autumn. Ideally, you need to find special mixtures for this type of indoor plants, but complex fertilizers for palm trees or mulberries are also suitable. The fertilizer is dissolved in water, strictly following the manufacturer’s recommendations. The preferred option for its application is foliar. Once every 15–20 days is enough.

Transfer

Bonsai under the age of 5 years need to be replanted every 2 years, adult trees - once every 5 years. Focus on the roots of the plant - if they stick out from the drainage holes in the pot, the ficus Benjamin clearly needs to be replanted. In the process, shorten the roots by a third - this stimulates the growth and branching of the ficus.

In general, the plant reacts negatively to transplantation, inevitably becoming “bald”, so it is not recommended to disturb Benjamin’s ficus unless absolutely necessary. The procedure can be completely replaced by removing the top layer of soil in the pot (about 1 cm) and adding a portion of freshly prepared substrate.

How to care for Ficus microcarpa (ginseng) bonsai?

Ficus Benjamin as a material for growing bonsai is the most popular, but by no means the only option. Ficus small-fruited (microcarpa), also known as ginseng (the more common pronunciation is “ginseng”) or blunted, looks no less aesthetically pleasing. The plant is also found under the nicknames “Chinese banyan”, “Taiwanese” or “Indian laurel ficus”, “green island”.

He is also popularly known as the “strangler”. This name indicates a characteristic feature - the aerial roots of the ficus ginseng, in search of support, entwine the trunks of nearby trees and inhibit their growth, in other words, strangle them.

The latter nickname describes what makes the ficus ginseng so popular among bonsai enthusiasts. Its main value for lovers of this decorative and applied art lies in its thick trunk, covered with reddish-gray folded bark, as if woven from several thinner trunks. In fact, what appear to be separate trunks are thickened aerial roots. The whole structure resembles the root of ginseng or the mythical mandrake. The narrow dark green leaves with pointed tips also look very attractive.

Growing a bonsai from a ficus ginseng is even easier than from a ficus benjamina. To stimulate the growth of aerial roots, a newly planted cutting with roots or a plant purchased in a store can be temporarily placed in a florarium or homemade “greenhouse” by tying the ficus in a bag or placing it in a container of suitable volume, covered with glass or plastic film. Ficus ginseng bonsai are replanted in July, shortening the roots by about a quarter.

Ficus ginseng loves light, but not scorching direct sunlight. The desired daylight hours of 14–16 hours in most parts of Russia cannot be provided naturally, so fluorescent lamps are used for supplementary illumination. In winter they must work on average 4–6 hours more per day than in summer.

In addition to bright light, ficus ginseng really does not like streams of hot, dry air. Place the plant away from radiators and other heating devices. Another argument against the window sill is strong drafts from uninsulated windows.

Water the bonsai from a watering can with a narrow spout around the perimeter of the pot, trying to prevent water from getting on the trunk and aerial roots. Water is poured until it begins to flow through the drainage holes. Wait 15–20 minutes and drain any excess from the pan. It is advisable to spray the plant daily or wipe the leaves with a damp soft cloth.

When choosing a place for bonsai, remember that the leaves of ficus ginseng are moderately poisonous. Pets who eat them may well become poisoned. Make sure to keep the potty out of reach of your pets.

The optimal height of a ficus ginseng bonsai is about 0.5 m. Accordingly, crown formation can begin in 3–4 years, when the tree has grown to the specified parameters and the aerial roots have become thick enough. But during this time, regular pruning is needed to prevent the tree from stretching excessively.

Massive leaf fall for ficus ginseng is a phenomenon that is quite normal. The lifespan of the leaves is a maximum of 3 years. Pretty soon the tree will acquire a new crown. But yellowing leaves, starting from the lowest ones, are a reason to urgently apply fertilizing. The plant signals that the soil is too poor.

Video: important nuances of caring for ficus ginseng bonsai

Ficus panda, rubber, bengal and other species suitable for bonsai formation

In addition to Ficus Benjamin and Ficus Ginseng, you can grow bonsai from other species:

• Ficus bengalensis. It is mainly valued for its specific life form (the so-called banyan) - one tree looks like a whole forest of smaller trees. Under natural conditions, it can grow over several hectares. Other ficus trees can form a banyan tree, but the Bengal one produces the most powerful one. The decoration of the bonsai is added by variegated leaves with a pattern of light veins.
• Ficus fig or carica, also known as fig, fig tree and wineberry. Not the most successful (since it gets rid of leaves for the winter), but quite a suitable option for bonsai. The branches are very thick, the leaves are large, so pruning is problematic. The trunk remains smooth regardless of the age of the plant. The more intensively the tree branches, the smaller the leaf plate becomes, so at a height of 0.5–0.7 m the bonsai looks harmonious. In summer it is useful to take the pot out into the open air.
• Ficus dark-leaved (neriifolia). Thanks to the color of the leaf blade, the plant is more shade-tolerant than its relatives and survives even in completely artificial light.
• Ficus rusty-red or rusty-leaved (rubiginosa). Young specimens of this unusual plant exist as epiphytes, then form a banyan tree, although not as pronounced as that of the ficus bengal. The smooth bark on young shoots has a reddish tint; adult leaves below are covered with a reddish-brown “pile.” It grows quite slowly, which allows bonsai to be pruned less often. Very hardy, even tolerates mistakes in care.
• Ficus panda. This species has very dense leaves. The plant tolerates the dry air of modern apartments well.
• Ficus rubber (elastica). Most often for bonsai, selective hybrids with a pattern on the leaves of spots and stripes of whitish, olive or lime color are used. Even compared to other ficuses, it grows quickly (one leaf per week). The glossy leaves are arranged in a spiral. Reacts poorly to sudden changes in the type of lighting or changes in the amount of sunlight. The milky-white juice released at the cut site is poisonous.

Bonsai from different types of ficus in the photo

Ficus rusty-red is more “forgiving” to the mistakes of a novice bonsai lover The small leaves of the ficus panda bonsai literally stick to the shoots - this illusion is created thanks to the short petioles When pruning ficus rubber bonsai, proceed only with gloves

Possible problems when growing bonsai

Any mistakes made by a bonsai grower negatively affect the appearance of the tree, which dramatically loses its decorative value. “Miniature”, unlike normal-sized trees, can die almost instantly. Therefore, measures must be taken promptly, immediately and correctly responding to the signals sent by the plant.

Table: common difficulties when growing ficus bonsai

Description of the problem	What is the reason and what to do?
The leaves darken, become covered with gray spots of irregular shape, which quickly increase in size, then “crawl” onto the trunk. The soil becomes moldy and overgrown with moss.	The bonsai is watered too often and/or too much. Let the soil in the pot dry out, adjust the intervals between watering depending on the temperature and air humidity level outside and indoors. In especially severe cases, only a transplant will help. The bonsai is removed from the pot, the soil is shaken off from the roots, and the remains are washed off. All affected roots are cut off. The ficus is transplanted into new soil and a clean pot, sprinkling the roots with any product that stimulates their growth. The bonsai is sprayed with a 1–1.5% solution of any fungicide, tied in a bag for 10–15 days, with several holes made in the lower part to “dump” moisture. Then you need to keep the same number of mini-ficus in the open bag.
The leaves droop, lose their tone, fade and fall off. The bark gathers into folds.	Bonsai suffers from lack of moisture and dries out. To quickly and evenly wet the soil, place the pot for 10–15 minutes (until bubbles appear on the surface) in a large container of water, then place it in a plastic bag and tie it, thus raising the air humidity. Leave for 2-3 days.
Sudden and massive leaf fall.	Possible reasons are the use of inappropriate temperature water for irrigation (most often too cold), lack of light, incorrect location (in a draft).
The leaves curl and dry out, starting from the tips.	Bonsai receives too much bright light. Choose a place where the ficus will be protected from direct sunlight. If there is no alternative, shade the plant at a time when the sun is most active.
After watering, water takes a long time to leave the soil surface.	In this way, the bonsai signals the need for replanting. Or an unsuitable, too “heavy” soil was used. Approximately 4/5 of the substrate is removed from the pot, without touching the soil directly at the roots, and replaced with a more suitable one. Until the next convenient moment for replanting, the tree is placed in a larger pot, with sand sprinkled on the bottom. The soil is regularly loosened.

Growing bonsai is an activity that requires patience, constant monitoring of the condition of the tree, artistic taste and imagination. Ficus is a good material for those wanting to practice before moving on to growing traditional miniature pines and maples. The plant is not capricious, responds gratefully to care, lends itself well to shaping and has the necessary decorative effect. Bonsai is a “long-term” hobby; growing a tree according to all the rules takes more than 10 years, the result will not be seen immediately, but observing the changes in shape and directing them in the right direction is very exciting.

Botanists count about a thousand species of ficus and more than two thousand of their varieties. Known are giant and dwarf ficuses, shrubby, tree-like, creeping, climbing, with leaves different in shape and size, fruit-bearing and sterile.

And they reproduce in different ways - by air layering, seeds, leaves. However, there is a simple and reliable way to propagate any type of ficus at home - cuttings.

Cutting and preparing cuttings

The most optimal time for propagating ficus is March-April. The plant emerges from the state of winter dormancy, life processes are activated and the cuttings will take root faster and better.

Household ficus trees can be propagated by cuttings in March and April.

Cuttings are possible from May to September, but in this case, establishment is slower and the young shoot does not always have time to accumulate enough strength by winter.

Prepare cuttings for propagation as follows:

Important: To quickly form a root system, the cuttings are soaked in a solution of a root growth stimulator (Kornerost) or sprinkled with dry growth powder - a mixture of a growth stimulant (1-30 mg), charcoal powder or talc (1 g). Soaking is more suitable for subsequent rooting of shoots in water, while powdering is more suitable for rooting in soil.

Rooting cuttings in water

When deciding how to root a ficus - in water or in soil, you should take into account the varietal characteristics of the plant, although both methods are suitable for almost all ficus plants. The “water” method is more convenient for rooting small cuttings; in addition, you can notice the beginning of shoot rotting in time and remove the damaged area.

If you decide to germinate roots in water:

Important: Do not keep the plant in water for too long and wait for the formation of a branched root system. Ficus gets used to the water method of nutrition and may not take root in the soil.

Basic rules for rooting cuttings in the ground

Large cuttings 10-15 cm long are more convenient to root in the ground. The process begins by preparing the substrate.

Suitable for seedlings:

• sand;
• perlite;
• vermiculite;
• sphagnum;
• a mixture of peat and perlite, a mixture of peat, sand and vermiculite in equal parts (crushed charcoal can be used instead of vermiculite).

The soil substrate is disinfected by pouring boiling water on it or keeping it in a water bath for 30 minutes, calcining it in the oven or microwave.

Several seedlings are rooted in one common container with a removable bottom or special planting boxes. When planting, the cuttings are buried in the ground up to the node next to the cut.

Large ficus cuttings are rooted in fertile, disinfected soil.

Containers with rooted cuttings are installed in a room with a constant temperature of + 24-28 ° C. To maintain optimal air and soil humidity, the seedlings are covered with a glass jar. The cuttings are ventilated daily and watered as the soil dries.

The root system is formed within a month and a half; after the appearance of new leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into individual pots with a diameter of 7-8 cm, filled with a soil mixture of equal parts of sand, turf and leaf soil, and humus.

Leaf propagation

To grow some varieties of ficus, it is enough to simply root a branch with a leaf. This method is often called heel-leaf propagation.

On a branch of a mature, large plant, a section with a leaf is cut out. The cuts are made at the node itself or cut directly along it. The upper cut is made horizontally, the lower cut at an angle of 45°.

The cut is treated in the same way as cuttings: the juice is removed, dried, and treated with root stimulants. Then they are buried in the prepared soil mixture up to the very leaf, rolled up and fixed in the form of a tube. Further care of the leaf is similar to caring for the cutting.

Features of cuttings of various types of ficus

The method of propagation of ficus depends on its variety.

Ficus trees are so diverse that there are no uniform rules or recommendations for their propagation. For example, creeping or small-growing ficuses (Pumila minima, Pumila macrophylla, Variegata, Sunny, White sunny) are propagated by cutting off the apical part of the shoot with 3-4 leaves or the entire shoot at the very root.

Then one or more vines are planted in a small glass, 7-8 cm in diameter, filled with soil mixture. While the cuttings are taking root, they need shelter, warmth and daily spraying.

One of the most popular types of ficus benjamina (Ficus benjamina) takes root well in water, although you will have to wait quite a long time - about a month.

“Waste” after pruning an adult tree is perfect for cutting cuttings.

When planting shoots directly into the ground, it is better to use a mixture of sand and peat. Rooting seedlings must be covered to create a moist, warm microclimate. Cuttings with roots are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 9-10 cm filled with a soil mixture of three parts turf soil and part peat, to which a little river sand is added.

Variegated varieties of Benjamin (Bushy King, Golden King, Exotica, Reginald, Natasha, Starlight) are cut only with the onset of warm weather, using apical or lateral shoots to prepare cuttings. When rooted in water, roots appear after 2 or 3 weeks.

(Decora, Robusta, Variegata, Black Prince, Melany, Tineke, Schriveriana), which is also called elastic ficus or rubber fig, is one of the few types of ficus that can be propagated at home by seeds. But this is a troublesome task and not always successful - often seedlings do not retain varietal characteristics.

Rubber-bearing ficus can be grown from seeds, but it is easier to propagate it from cuttings.

It is much easier to grow rubber plants from cuttings. Suitable for harvesting are apical and lateral shoots, leaves with a heel, or just shoots with a bud.

The most suitable time for cuttings from elastic ficus is March-April. The treated cuttings are buried in damp river sand or expanded clay. The root system is formed in 1-1.5 months. When rooted in water, the roots germinate faster - in 20-30 days.

Lyre-shaped or violin-leaved fig (Ficus lyrata) is distinguished by very large (20-60 cm) leaves, is quite whimsical and capricious, but it can also be propagated by cuttings. 12-15 centimeter cuttings harvested in spring must have at least four leaves. Cuttings are rooted in water or soil and germinated following general rules.

Caring for young plants

Despite all the unpretentiousness and endurance of ficuses, in order to grow a healthy, beautiful tree from a cutting, it is necessary to take into account certain features of caring for a young plant.

Adult ficus prefer dense soil, and seedlings require light, mineral-rich substrates with a neutral or slightly acidic pH. A mixture of leaf soil, peat and sand, taken in equal parts, is best suited. A drainage layer of expanded clay or small river pebbles must be laid at the bottom of the planting container.

To root ficus cuttings, fertile and light soil is used.

Important: In the first days after planting the cuttings, the soil temperature is maintained at an elevated level; for this purpose, the pots with plants are raised above floor level.

Choosing a location and lighting

Almost all ficus trees are shade-tolerant. Pots with trees do not have to be placed on the windowsill. It is optimal to plant the seedling at a distance of 0.7-1.5 m from the southern, western or eastern window in a bright place, but protected from intense direct rays of the sun and drafts. In the dark season, additional lighting is desirable.

When choosing a location, we take into account varietal characteristics:

• ficuses with hard, leathery leaves (rubber-bearing) easily tolerate bright light;
• variegated varieties are more demanding of light, they need good, long-lasting lighting, otherwise the color of the leaves fades and the plant loses its decorative effect;
• hanging, creeping, rooting, low-growing varieties prefer partial shade;
• ficus benjamina prefers abundant light and does not like rearrangements.

The favorable level of illumination for ficuses is 2600-3000 lux.

Humidity mode

Young plants rooted under cover and in water require a lot of moisture. Trees planted in a permanent place are regularly sprayed. Adult plants, with the exception of lyre-shaped and tiny creeping plants, do not need high air humidity, although in hot weather and in winter with the heating on, spraying and a warm shower will not hurt.

Young and adult ficuses are regularly sprayed with a spray bottle.

Required watering

Watering mode:

• in summer - regular and abundant (until it flows out of the drainage hole);
• excess moisture in winter is dangerous for the roots, they can rot, so in winter the amount of watering is reduced to once every 10 days;
• if the soil in a pot with a young plant has dried out by 2-3 cm, it is time to water; the plant dropping its lower leaves indicates an excess of moisture.

Required temperature

Young plants, accustomed to greenhouse conditions, are gradually accustomed to lower temperatures, lowering the room temperature by 1-2 degrees every week. In summer, a temperature of 18-25 °C is considered comfortable, in winter - 13-20 °C. We mean that variegated ficuses are more thermophilic. For them, the temperature is maintained 3-5 °C higher. Carian (fig) and tiny ficus, on the contrary, love coolness; for them, the temperature in winter can be reduced to 10 °C.

When and how to fertilize

The trees are fed for the first time 1-2 months after planting. No fertilizing is required in winter. In warm weather, plants are fertilized once every 2 weeks. It is more convenient to use ready-made complex fertilizers (Ideal, Bona Forte, Rainbow, Pockon).

A couple of months after planting, the ficus needs to be fed.

Transfer

Young ficus trees are replanted every year as they grow, preferably in the spring. The need for replanting is easy to notice by the rapid drying of the soil and the clod of soil heavily entwined with roots. When choosing a new container for planting, they adhere to the rule - its diameter should be one and a half to two centimeters larger than the diameter of the previous pot.

Some tips from experienced ficus growers:

• to stimulate root formation, several shallow scratches should be made on the lower part of the cutting;
• aloe juice can be used as a root growth stimulator by treating the cuttings with it before rooting;
• Irrigation with settled tap water should be alternated with irrigation with rainwater, thereby preventing soil salinization;
• it is convenient and useful to combine watering with fertilizing;
• The leaves of the plant must be regularly wiped with a dry cloth.

This video will help you understand how to properly root a ficus at home.

Regardless of the choice of plant - benjamina ficus, rubber-bearing or dwarf ficus - the process of preparing for propagation is the same. Harvesting cuttings begins in the spring and continues until early June during the period of active plant growth. A cutting 10 to 15 cm long is cut at an angle with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The choice of the place from which the planting material will be obtained is not so important. This can be either the top of the plant or the stem shoot. The main thing is that the ficus is not young, otherwise it will not reproduce and take root. Choose a flower with woody shoots.

Ficus cuttings

At the cut, you will see milky juice begin to ooze from the cuttings. This adhesive composition clogs the conducting paths, covering the cut site with a dense plug, which prevents the young plant from developing. Therefore, we wash the cuttings until the sticky residues completely disappear or leave them to soak for a couple of hours in warm water. Next, dry the prepared sections in the open air for 2 hours. Let's start rooting. The easiest option is to place the prepared branches in water. To make them grow roots faster, make 2-3 vertical cuts along the base line, leaving only the top leaves and removing the bottom ones.

Biostimulants, for example, 2-3 drops of Epin, help speed up the rooting process. Activated carbon also copes well with the task. Just crush 1 tablet and add it to a container of water.

Ficus benjamina and other representatives of this plant take root well at a temperature of 25 ° C and air humidity of 80%. Creating a mini-greenhouse helps achieve such indicators. To do this, we put a plastic bag, a plastic cup or a bottle scrap on top of the container. As the water evaporates, add liquid. On average, it takes 3-4 weeks for a ficus to root. Initially, white growths appear at the base, from which roots later form. When they reach 2–3 cm, we transplant the ficus into nutrient soil. You should not keep the plant in water - its roots will begin to rot, and it will not be possible to grow a healthy and beautiful flower.

Many gardeners inherited ficus with large and dense leaves from our grandmothers. This is a rubber ficus. Along with the “grandmother’s flower,” Benjamin’s ficus has also gained popularity. This plant reproduces by layering, leaves and cuttings. To obtain planting material, it is not necessary to specifically cut the branches. When forming the crown in the spring, do not throw away the cut stems, but use them for propagation.

Rooting cuttings

We begin rooting by preparing the substrate. For growing to be successful, the soil must be light and nutritious. Combine soil with sand, peat with perlite. Our advice is a mixture of turf and leaf soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1:0.5. If you did not root the cuttings in water first, rinse them under running water to get rid of the milky juice, leave to dry for 2 hours, then treat the cut with crushed activated carbon. We make a hole in the prepared substrate and deepen the cutting into it by one node. We moisten the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect the plant from fungal infections.

Let's create a familiar mini-greenhouse. We put a plastic bag on top of the pot and send the cuttings to take root in a warm, sunny place. As the soil dries, we moisten it. After 21 days, new leaves should form - this is a sign of successful rooting. After this, the mini-greenhouse can be gradually removed so that the young ficus gets used to the new conditions. Start small by punching a few holes in the polyethylene or plastic bottle.

Video: Reproduction of Ficus Benjamin

You already know how to propagate ficus, it’s time to talk about proper care for it after rooting. The place to start is with lighting. The plant loves a good stream of sunlight, but does not tolerate direct ultraviolet rays. The best option in this case would be diffused light, which will not allow the young ficus to stretch and weaken, while maintaining the natural shape and color of the leaves. If there is insufficient lighting, use. Temperature is another important factor. To alternate active growth and dormant periods in summer, the room temperature should be 25–28 °C, and in winter – 15–18 °C. This rule applies to all species without exception, including Ficus Benjamin.

Young ficus seedlings

Water is the life-giving force of the ficus, so maintain a balance, avoiding waterlogging and dryness. Pay special attention to watering in the summer, simultaneously wiping the ficus leaves with a damp cloth and spraying it with a spray bottle. Combine moistening the substrate with fertilizing. During the period of active growth (spring-summer), feed the plant every 14 days with a solution.

Video: An easy way to propagate ficus

As the ficus benjamina, rubber and dwarf species grow, we transplant them into another pot, which should be 2 times larger than the previous one. We recommend replanting in early spring, removing part of the old soil from the earthen ball and adding new nutritious soil mixture.

Among the huge number of indoor plants, one of the most spectacular is. Purifying the air from harmful impurities, it has served as an interior decoration for many centuries.

We will tell you more about how rubber grows, as well as the rules for caring for and protecting the plant from diseases and pests in the article.

Ficus belongs to the Mulberry family. India is considered its homeland. Here it becomes a huge tree, reaching a height of forty meters.

In its natural habitat it forms powerful aerial roots, which, intertwining, sometimes create very bizarre “structures”.

It is not uncommon for roots to come out when grown in a pot. The aerial root of ficus is one of its features.

The leaves are located one above the other, have an oval shape with a clear division in the middle.

The tips are pointed. The color of the plates is rich green, glossy. Decorative varieties have other colors. The most common representatives:

• Belize. Beautiful, white-pink border of foliage and reddish stems.
• Decor. The young crown has a bronze tint.
• Variegata. Variegated yellow-green leaves.

Each view is beautiful in its own way. However, the most popular is the rubber-bearing ficus Robusta. Its dark, fleshy greenery has decorated a huge number of apartments since Soviet times.

Previously, ficus was grown in entire plantations. They did this for industrial purposes: rubber was extracted from the stems and roots, which was used to create rubber products.

The culture is quite unpretentious. Loves good lighting, especially variegated species, but can even grow on northern windows. True, in the dark the plant will stretch upward more, and the foliage will become noticeably smaller.

The most comfortable temperature in summer is 18-25°. In winter, 15° will be enough.

The tree is distinguished by its hardiness and relative resistance to drought, as it tends to retain “extra” moisture in the stems, roots and leaves. However, this does not mean that the ficus need not be watered at all. On the contrary, in hot weather, moisturizing should be done twice a week, and only with the onset of cold weather can watering be reduced to a minimum, remembering the “favorite” once every two months.

In addition, the plant will be grateful if you “bathe” it with a shower or simply spray it with a spray bottle.

For lush growth, fertilizing will also be useful, which should be applied every 10 days.

Reproduction options

Fucus rubber is an amazing plant! Getting new trees will not be difficult and even an inexperienced gardener can cope with it. The following methods are used:

Cuttings. For preparations, use the apical segments, which have 5-6 leaves.
After separating the branch, it is thoroughly washed to remove the juice. Then with liquid for several days. The water is changed periodically.

To speed up the root formation process, you can add honey, aloe juice or industrial growth stimulants to the container.

Air layering. On a straight, even shoot with 4-5 leaves, two cuts are made with a distance of 1.5 centimeters. Then the bark between them is cleared.

The area is treated with a root former and wrapped with moisture-retaining material (perlite, moss, sponge). The operation site is hermetically sealed with film.

After the formation of sufficiently strong aerial roots, the branch is separated from the mother plant and placed in a nutrient substrate.

Escape with a leaf. For a full-fledged tree to form, one leaf will not be enough. Such a preparation will, of course, form roots, but the stem will never appear. Therefore, when choosing this method of propagation, you need to use a leaf plate along with a piece of wood.

Ficus (fikus) ready for cuttings

The lower edge of the cutting is made obliquely, and sometimes it is additionally split by inserting a piece of a match into the gap. The greens are rolled into a tube and secured with a rope or rubber band. Then the shoot is placed in water or directly in the ground.

For propagation to be successful, work must be done in winter. It is at this time that the ficus secretes the smallest amount of juice, which can become an obstacle to the formation of roots.

A good period for harvesting will be the spring-summer season, when the flower grows and develops most actively.

Proper care and formation of ficus

After the cuttings have acquired their own root system, they need to be planted. Which soil should you choose?

The substrate must be loose, have good throughput and be maximally saturated with nutrients. To prepare it, you need to take sand, leaf and turf soil, humus and peat. All components are taken in equal quantities.

1.5-2 cm of drainage is poured into the “leaky” pot, then a little soil mixture and only then a young seedling. The roots are carefully straightened and completely covered with soil. It is necessary to compact the earthen layers very slightly so as not to disrupt the air permeability of the soil.

In the future, caring for young growth is the same as for adult ficus: maintaining heat, moderate watering, sufficient lighting and timely application of fertilizers. It is recommended to do feeding from the second year of life.

Don't forget about the transplant. “Novices” change containers from smaller to larger ones every year. Strong ficuses are “relocated” only in case of urgent need, when the roots are already crawling out of the container. For the “old people”, it is enough to update the top layer of soil.

Some flower growers are engaged. If the crop is grown as a single-trunk tree, then work is limited to periodically removing dried leaves.

To obtain bushiness, pruning is necessary. First, the apical growth point is pinched off, and after the lateral shoots appear, the process is repeated with them.

By the way, the remaining “unnecessary” pieces can be used as material for cuttings.
It is worth remembering that the juice secreted by ficus is relatively poisonous. It can cause skin irritation, so it is advisable to wear gloves when shaping the plant.

Diseases and pests

Ficus (fíkus), grown at home

The most common insects found are:

• Thrips. The foliage becomes covered with a shiny coating, and red spots appear below.
• Spider mite. Drying blots on all parts of the plant, white or grayish dust, cobwebs.
• Shield. The flower becomes sticky to the touch.
• Mealybug. Light, rough areas appear on the inside of the leaves.

Pest control measures are very similar.

First, the tree needs to be washed under running water, then treated with an insecticide or some folk remedy.

Spider mites are quite dangerous pests that are not easy to get rid of. The reason is that tick larvae are resistant to many drugs. Therefore, when choosing a remedy, you should pay attention to the features of its action and the individuals at what stage it affects.

Sometimes, when attacked by mites, the foliage begins to turn yellow and wither, then dry out and fall off. It is imperative to start treatment on time, otherwise the flower will become so weakened by the pest that it may not be able to withstand treatment with strong chemicals.

First, you should isolate the infected plant. It is best to follow this recommendation when attacked by any pests. Then increase the humidity level. After all, dry air is preferable for ticks.

And yet, both in bathing and in spraying, moderation must be observed. Otherwise, The rhizome or stem will begin to rot. During such events, it is better to hold the pot at an angle or cover the soil with something so that moisture does not get into it.

The flower can be sprayed with Actellik or Neoron. The procedure is carried out at least 2 times. During the first treatment, Neoron only damages the larvae. Therefore, repeated spraying is required.

In addition to medications aimed at killing ticks, there are also those that sterilize females. These measures are also effective.

In addition to treating the plant itself, we recommend disinfecting the place where the flower was located. To do this, wash the window sill and glass with baking soda. It is also better to iron the curtains. Even after complete recovery, it is better to keep the flower in quarantine for some time.

When attacked by scale insects, we recommend both local exposure and treatment with drugs. The first method is to lubricate the bumps with pests with an alcohol or soap solution using a brush or cotton swab. And after that, remove with a brush or cloth.

In addition to insects, rubber fíkus can “suffer” due to errors in care.

Unpleasant smell. Most often, this sign signals rotting of the roots, which occurs due to poor drainage.

To eliminate the “sore,” the plant must be removed from the soil, the roots inspected, dead and diseased ones removed, healthy parts dusted with activated carbon, and planted in a container with new soil.

Falling or yellowing of leaves. Most often, such a nuisance occurs when the water regime is violated. The ficus is either over-watered or, conversely, lacks “drink.” To correct the situation, the soil should either be dried or watered.

The flower doesn't grow. In the case of arrested development, the reason is simple: the pot is too small. All you have to do is replant the culture and everything will return to normal.

While watching the video you will learn about.

Let the rubber ficus attract good luck to your home and delight you with its splendor all year round!

Young ficuses of all types need annual replanting, plants older than five years - once every two, three or four years.

The diameter of the pot for small ficuses should be 2 centimeters, and for large ones - 6 centimeters larger than the previous one.

You cannot transplant a small ficus immediately into a large pot, this especially applies to dwarf ficus. This will inevitably lead to acidification of the soil, the root system will rot, and the ficus will die. If you made a mistake with the size of the pot, then replant ficus It's never too late to use another smaller pot.

The deepening of the root collar can negatively affect the leaves: green leaves suddenly begin to fall off, sometimes dark brown spots appear on them.

When replanting the ficus, the soil in the pot should be lightly compacted with your thumbs. Do not leave voids near the roots. However, it is also not worth compacting the soil in the pot too much, because the soil will become too dense, air will not flow to the roots, in this case the tips of the leaves will begin to turn black, and the green leaves may fall off in this case as well.

The lightly compacted soil in the pot after transplanting the ficus will settle after a while, and it will need to be filled to the required level so that the root collar is flush with the ground.

And even throughout the year, if the soil begins to wash away from the upper roots of the ficus due to watering, it is necessary to periodically add soil to the pot.

After transplanting, thoroughly moisten the soil in the pot and remove the ficus in partial shade. The next watering of the ficus should be done only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried.