Early forcing of hippeastrum for the holidays in a greenhouse. Home care for hippeastrum Hippeastrum indoors

Bloom. The flowering stage begins from the moment the flower arrow appears until the buds wither. The flowering period is on average three weeks. The flower arrow grows for two weeks, the buds bloom for 1-2 days (they can all bloom at once, they can bloom one by one) and the flowers remain in bloom for about a week. The duration of the flowering period depends on temperature conditions (the higher the temperature, the faster the peduncle grows, the faster the buds bloom, the buds wither faster), on the number of peduncles (when the bulb blooms with several peduncles, the flowering period can be up to 1.5 months), on the varietal characteristics (terry varieties bloom 1-2 days earlier than non-terry varieties).
Flowering usually occurs once a year (in autumn or winter, or early spring), and with good care again in the summer. The timing largely depends on care (when the bulb was put to rest) and also on varietal characteristics (there are varieties that bloom at a certain time).

The growing season or growth period. During this period, the hippeastrum recovers after flowering, increases the leaves and volume of the bulb, and lays flower stalks for future flowering. This period is very important, future flowering depends on it. Lasts on average about 8-9 months, and sometimes longer. The timing depends on the recovery of the bulb. It takes longer for very thin bulbs and bulbs to recover after illness (rot, red burn).

Rest period. It begins from the moment the bulb is placed in a dark, cool place, and lasts an average of 3 months. The duration depends on the previous season and storage conditions. Healthy, well-fed bulbs are sent to rest.

Caring for Amaryllis

Caring for Hippeastrum - in the section of the Encyclopedia of indoor plants.

Planting hippeastrum

Question: When can hippeastrums be replanted? And how often?

It is advisable to replant once a year; hippeastrums are voracious and quickly consume the supply of nutrients in the soil. You can replant either before sending it to rest, or after a period of rest, i.e. before flowering. In some cases, for example, purchased hippeastrum has faded, it can be replanted after flowering. It is not advisable to replant during the flowering period.

Question: How to plant a bulb correctly? Is it necessary to bury it?

Hippeastrums are planted so that a third of the bulb rises above the ground.

Question: When replanting, do I need to remove dry scales?

From a healthy bulb, only those scales that can be easily removed can be removed. Brown scales that are close to the bulb and cannot be removed do not need to be removed.

Question: What soil should I plant in?

The soil should be light in composition, with good water and air permeability, rich in organic matter. Slightly acidic pH - 5.6-6. You can use store-bought soil or mix it yourself. There is a large selection of purchased soils; there are special soils for bulbous plants.

It is better to add sand or vermiculite to the purchased soil for greater looseness. If you want to make the soil yourself, then the composition is as follows: clay-turf soil, leaf soil, humus, peat and sand (2: 1: 1: 1: 1)

Question: Is it possible to grow hippeastrums in open ground?

It's possible for the summer. In the garden they grow very well and reserve strength for future flowering. Just don’t forget about pests (there are more of them in the garden than in indoor conditions), rodents and the fact that the weather is changeable. During frosts and heavy rains, the bulbs need to be covered. You need to dig up the bulbs before the first autumn frosts.

Feeding hippeastrum

Question: How to properly feed hippeastrum?

The composition of the fertilizer depends on the stage of development. The most important element is potassium. Fertilize approximately once every two weeks.

During the flowering period, emphasis is placed on phosphorus-potassium and a low nitrogen content.

At the beginning of the growing season, the emphasis is on nitrogen-potassium, in the middle nitrogen-phosphorus in equal proportions, slightly more potassium.

A month before the dormant period, feeding is stopped.

A few rules: you can’t fertilize on dry soil, after replanting, the first fertilizing is no earlier than 1.5-2 months, carefully read the instructions and dilute according to the instructions, do not overdose.

Question: Is it better to feed with organic matter or mineral fertilizers?

Hippeastrums are good with both organic and mineral matter. Ideally, it is better to alternate them. There are also special fertilizers for bulbous plants.

Watering hippeastrums

Question: How to water hippeastrums correctly?

Flowering period. Until the arrow has grown by 10-15 cm, water as it dries (i.e. the top layer should dry well between waterings). As soon as the peduncle begins to open, watering should be increased, but no swamp. Hippeastrums do not like the bay.

Growing season. Water as the top layer dries.

Rest period. Watering once every 1.5 months is not very abundant. Watering must be careful; under no circumstances should water get on the bulb, otherwise the upper scales may rot.

Reproduction

Question: What are the methods for propagating hippeastrum?

Seeds, babies, dividing the bulb.

Seed propagation of hippeastrum

As a rule, it is used in breeding to develop new varieties and hybrids. When propagating a variety by seed, 100% compliance with the parent form in seedlings is not guaranteed. Self-pollination does not provide a 100% guarantee that the same variety will be obtained. There are species that cannot self-pollinate. This method of reproduction is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming. An onion grown from seeds blooms with good care in the 5th-6th year.

The pollination process is simple: the stigma of a flower of one variety of hippeastrum is pollinated with pollen from other varieties, pollinated several times from the moment the stigma lobes diverge until complete divergence.

Only healthy bulbs are selected for pollination.

It takes about 1.5-2 months for the seeds to ripen. Seeds can be collected when the seed pod begins to open. Not all seeds are suitable for planting; there are “dummy” seeds (that is, there is no embryo inside), so the seeds are sorted before planting. The largest, plumpest seeds are selected (the embryo can be felt to the touch). The sorted seeds can be sown in the ground, lightly sprinkled with soil, or placed in water (with activated carbon) and wait for germination; as soon as the white root emerges, plant it in the ground (with the white root down). The distance between seeds when planting is 1.5-2 cm.

For seed germination and seedling growth, light, warmth and proper watering are important. The soil should be slightly moist, temperature 20-23 degrees. If these conditions are not met, the seeds may not germinate or may rot. The germination rate of fresh seeds is almost 100%.

Seedlings need to be transplanted as they grow. Don't forget to apply fertilizer.

Spring seedlings are stronger than autumn ones, so seed propagation is best done in the spring. In addition, autumn seedlings need additional lighting in winter.

Reproduction of hippeastrum by children

This method allows you to preserve all varietal characteristics, but the reproduction rate is low. Children are formed irregularly. The formation of children largely depends on the variety, for example, La Paz and Giraffe seabirds easily produce children, but terry varieties are reluctant.

The babies are separated from the mother's bulb during transplantation. When separated, the baby should be at least 2 cm, with good roots. With good care, children bloom in the 4th year.

Hippeastrum propagation by dividing the bulb

This method is rarely used among amateur flower growers. Firstly, because you need to cut a healthy onion. Secondly, there is a risk of losing the bulb and not getting babies (there is a high probability of infection in the wound). But the reproduction rate is high and the resulting children retain their varietal characteristics.

Adult, healthy bulbs are selected for propagation. Dried bulbs that have been in storage for a long time, as well as bulbs during the flowering period and immediately after flowering, are not suitable for division.

Selected bulbs are washed in clean running water and cleaned of old outer scales. The roots and bottom, if it is too high, are cut off with a sterile knife (the bottom cannot be cut off completely). 1/3-1/4 is removed from the top of the onion. After which the onion is cut vertically into 8-16 parts (segments). The width of the segment is 1-2 cm. The number of segments depends on the size of the bulb; the larger the bulb, the more segments. Then each segment is cut into 3-5 divisions, consisting of two scales, fastened at the base with a piece of the bottom. Depending on the size of the uterine bulb, you can get 50-60 or more divisions from one bulb. Before planting, the cuttings are treated with a fungicide (in Maxim, in Vitaros or in foundation).

The cuttings are planted in perlite, sawdust, river sand or in substrates prepared from these components with the addition of peat. The thickness of the substrate layer should be at least 10-12 cm. Substrates that are heavy in mechanical composition are not suitable for planting cuttings. Before planting, the substrate is steamed or poured over the entire thickness of its layer with fungicides to destroy the harmful microflora present in it.

The distance between divisions when planting is small - 1200 - 1500 divisions per 1 m square. Plant in boxes or on racks with bottom heating. Planting is carried out to a depth of no more than 1/3 of the height of the division. Deep planting leads to rotting of the cuttings, a decrease in reproduction productivity, and retards the growth and development of the resulting daughter bulbs.

Planting can also be carried out in segments, without dividing them into divisions. But the productivity of reproduction, despite the large number of daughter bulbs formed by one segment, is lower, since the number of planting units obtained from one bulb is significantly less than when dividing the bulb into segments. Planting in segments is used only when it is necessary to divide small bulbs that have a small amount of scales.

The formation of daughter bulbs occurs a month after planting the divisions at the place where the scales are attached to the bottom. Each division forms 1-2, and individual divisions up to 6, daughter bulbs. Three months after planting the divisions, the newly formed daughter bulbs have an independent root system and 2-3 leaves. At this age, the plants are replanted. The success of reproduction using the paired scale method depends on the temperature and humidity of the substrate.

The temperature of the substrate during the formation of daughter bulbs is maintained within 22-24°C, the air temperature is 1-2°C lower. Lower temperatures, as well as sudden changes in temperature during the formation of daughter bulbs, lead to a sharp decrease in reproductive productivity.

The substrate must be kept moist at all times. Overmoistening and drying out of the substrate reduces the productivity of reproduction. Air humidity is maintained within 75-80%. Increased humidity and air stagnation, decreases and sudden changes in temperature contribute to the massive development of stagonosporosis.

Fertilizing is carried out after the plants have an independent root system and leaf apparatus. Plants that are grown on substrates that do not contain nutrients (perlite, sawdust, river sand) especially need feeding. Fertilizing is carried out with liquid organic or mineral fertilizers twice a month.

Care during the formation of daughter bulbs and in the initial period of plant life consists of systematic watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil and protecting plants from diseases and pests.

Choosing a bulb in a store

Question: How to choose the right onion in the store? What should you pay attention to?

During the forcing season (autumn or spring), hippeastrums can be bought either in bulk (without soil in a plastic bag on which the variety and supplier are written) or in a pot.

When purchasing, carefully inspect the bulb. The neck, bottom and the bulb itself must be strong and dense. The top scales should be dry brown. There should be no compaction, darkening, redness, or rot.

When buying a bulb in a pot, pay attention to the roots (they can be seen through the drainage hole (the roots should be white)), the feel of the bulb (should be strong), the upper scales should be dry brown (soft, wet - rotten), on the leaves (if they exist) and the bulb should not be red.

When buying an onion at a discounted price, try to find out the reason for the discount. Prices are reduced for faded bulbs at the end of the planting season. Sometimes they sell flooded bulbs with rot at reduced prices. And it’s also worth noting that mis-grading is very common in stores.

Questions about hippeastrum flowering

Question: How long does hippeastrum bloom?

On average, the flowering period takes 3 weeks (from the moment the peduncle appears until the buds wither). The flowering period is extended when the bulb blooms with several peduncles (after all, the peduncles do not always bloom at the same time, sometimes one after the other).

Temperature also affects flowering times. At a temperature of deg. 25 The peduncle grows quickly, the bud opens quickly, and the bud quickly fades. Optimum temperature deg. 18-20. There is a little trick: as soon as the bud opens, the hippeastrum can be moved to a cooler place (degree 16), then the flowering will last longer.

Question: Hippeastrum grows leaves and does not want to bloom. How to achieve flowering?

First of all, you need to think about the conditions under which hippeastrum is kept.

1. The bulb may be too small. Typically, bulbs smaller than 6 cm are children, or bulbs that spent a lot of effort on flowering and are too weak after flowering. It is too early for such bulbs to bloom; they need to increase their volume, i.e. fertilizing (nitrogen-potassium) and light are needed; there is no need to arrange a rest period.

2. For flowering, it is very important that the bulb regains its strength during the growth period and lays a flower arrow (usually the arrow is laid after every 4th leaf).

3. The bulb lacks nutrients. Consider how long ago you replanted your bulb. It is advisable to replant even an adult bulb every year, since during the growth period the hippeastrum consumes all the nutrients in the soil. In addition to replanting, the bulb needs proper feeding to restore its strength. During flowering - phosphorus-potassium and a small nitrogen content, after flowering nitrogen-potassium and a small phosphorus content.

4. Lack of light. Think about what kind of lighting you have. Hippeastrums are light-loving and can be easily placed on a sunny southern window.

With such illumination, during the growth period (spring-summer) they will get stronger and lay a flower arrow, and maybe more than one. A bulb that has not received enough light, for example, has stood on a northern windowsill all spring and summer or, in a place where the sun's rays rarely reach, may not flourish.

5. In what container is the hippeastrum planted? The pot should not be very spacious. The distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot is no more than 3 cm.

6. Don't forget about the rest period. After a rapid period of growth, the bulb needs to rest for two to three months in a cool, dark place.

Question: The bulb is 3 cm, why doesn’t it bloom?

It's a baby, too small to bloom.

Question: A third flower stalk has appeared, I’m worried about the bulb. Will she have enough strength?

A well-fed bulb quietly blooms with three peduncles. If you are worried about the onion, then as soon as the bud opens, the peduncle can be cut off and placed in water.

Question: On the third arrow, the flowers were not as large as on the first two. Why?

I didn't have enough strength. As soon as the buds open, it is better to cut off such a peduncle and place it in water.

Question: How many flowers can there be on one peduncle?

From 2 to 6. The quantity depends on the age of the bulb and varietal characteristics.

Question: Why does hippeastrum have a peduncle longer than 80 cm?

Or there is not enough light. The more light, the shorter the peduncle.

Question: A peduncle has appeared, the bulb has 60 cm leaves. Do I need to trim the leaves?

There is no need to trim the leaves. This is stress; strength will be needed to heal the wound (cut site) and to produce new leaves. Why waste her extra energy? All her energy is now spent on flowering.

Question: Is it possible to get flowering by a certain date? I want it to bloom for the New Year.

Yes, you can. The calculation is as follows: on average, the dormant period lasts 2.5 months (10 weeks), from the moment the flower shoot appears until the buds open, about 3 weeks pass. In total, it turns out to be 13 weeks (a little more than 3 months). This means that in order to get flowering for the New Year, you need to send the bulb to rest in early October.

Question: Is it possible to achieve flowering on northern windows?

Hippeastrums are light-loving and feel more comfortable on southern, western, and eastern windows. You can make it bloom on a north, north-west, or north-east window. But the hippeastrum grows the bulb and recovers poorly after flowering, it spends a lot of energy on flowering (the bulb noticeably loses weight), produces long leaves and not so many, peduncles are very long and elongated.

Question: The peduncle rotates around its axis. Is this normal?

It's okay, he's reaching for the light.

Question: The buds have withered. When should you remove the peduncle?

In order not to weaken the flower stalk after the buds have withered, you need to cut it off.

Question: Is it true that it is very difficult to get the next flowering from the Dutch?

It is a myth. Flowering does not depend on the “Dutch”, but on the conditions of detention.

Hippeastrum growing season

Question: After flowering, the bulb has voids. Is this normal?

She spent energy on flowering, which is why voids were formed. There is nothing wrong, the bulb needs to recover. Over time, the voids will close. Try to water more carefully so that water does not get into the “voids.”

Question: The bulb after abundant flowering (there were 3 peduncles) lost a lot of weight. How can I help her recover? And will it be restored to its original size?

In room conditions, the bulb can be restored to its original size, it all depends on care. To recover, she needs: a sufficient amount of light, proper feeding, watering. The slowest to recover are the bulbs that bloomed with three peduncles. Such bulbs spent a lot of effort on flowering and can easily skip the next flowering.

Question: Hippeastrum bloomed with three shoots last year. This year it refuses to bloom. Care according to the rules (light, feeding, rest). The bulb is strong, grew 10 leaves during the growing season, and retired on its own. Why didn't it bloom?

It is possible that the hippeastrum missed flowering. I spent a lot of effort on the previous flowering. And during the growing season I only managed to grow the bulb. Continue care, it will bloom next year.

Question: Hippeastrum has bloomed, the shoot has dried up, but there are no leaves? What is he going through now: growing season or immediate dormancy?

Vegetation. There are varieties that bloom in a leafless state. Leaves appear within a month.
If the flowering bulb was recently purchased, it may not have roots. She spent all her energy on flowering, now she is growing roots, then leaves will appear.

Question: Hippeastrum has faded. The first leaf appeared and turned yellow almost immediately, a little later two more leaves appeared, and they turned yellow and dried out. The bulb is strong, dense, no rot. I replanted it, but there were no roots when replanting. Watering is neat. It is on the east window. What with her?

Most likely the problem is the lack of roots. Healthy leaves will appear as soon as the bulb has roots. You can stimulate the formation of roots with “kornevin” or “heterauxin”.

Question: The purchased hippeastrum has bloomed and was planted in peat upon purchase. I want to transplant. Can I replant after flowering?

It is possible and even necessary. When replanting, be sure to inspect the roots; in the store they often flood, and rot forms on the roots and bulb. Old peat must be removed from the roots and treated with Maxim (or another fungicide) before planting.

Question: Hippeastrum leaves are falling down too long, what kind of support can I come up with?

In the store you can find various supports, similar to those shown in the photo. If you connect them together, or use them separately, you get convenient support for the leaves. The supports can be plastic or bamboo. You can use woolen thread to tie the leaves to the support.

Question: How to properly cut off a peduncle after flowering?

Cut so that about 10 cm of the peduncle remains from the neck of the bulb. After the remainder of the peduncle dries, it can be easily twisted out. You can see from the remainder of the peduncle whether the bulb is healthy or not. A healthy bulb has a dry peduncle; a diseased bulb has a slimy, soft, red peduncle.

Question: Leaves appeared from the ground, what are they?

These are leaves from the baby.

Question: The leaves have a red tint. What is this red burn?

If the purple discoloration is uniform on all leaves and begins at the base of the leaves, then this is a varietal feature and indicates that the bulb blooms red or with a predominance of red and dark red color. Varieties with purple foliage: Red Lion, Benfica, Lima, Papilio Butterfly, Rapido, La Paz.
If sudden red streaks or spots of redness appear on the leaves, then the cause is rot or “red burn.”

Hippeastrum dormant period

Question: The leaves of the hippeastrum began to turn yellow and wither. Maybe he's going to retire?

Look at the onion. Have you grown up? Did you grow leaves during the growing season? If yes, then the bulb is going to rest. You need to put it in a dark, cool place and reduce watering. The bulb will take all the nutrients from the leaves.

Question: I bought hippeastrum in early November and it bloomed. During 4 months of growth, it grew 7 leaves. Should he be retired (it’s March now)?

It’s too early to retire; the bulb hasn’t had time to recover. Send in early fall.

Question: How to send an onion to rest?

Place the onion in a dark, cool place. There is no need to cut off the leaves; the bulb will take nutrients from them. After some time, the leaves will turn yellow and wilt and can be easily removed.

Question: Why retire?

My hippeastrum blooms once a year without a dormant period.

And if you don’t want to kick them out, you don’t have to arrange a rest period. In this case, it is difficult to predict flowering.

Question: How to determine whether the hippeastrum bulb is awake?

The bulb woke up as soon as the peduncle or leaves appeared.

Question: When to “wake up” the bulb? Or wait until she wakes up?

At rest for more than 2 months. If it is in a cool place, then it is enough to bring it into a warmer, bright place and the forcing effect will work. If you don’t do anything, she will wake up on her own when she deems it necessary.

Question: Hippeastrum retired three months ago. Now there is no flower shoot or leaves, the bulb has lost weight. What to do?

The bulb gave all its strength to the previous flowering and did not recover. Take out the bulb, replant it in fresh soil, let it grow and restore its strength. Such a bulb is unlikely to flourish.

Question: Hippeastrum was sent to rest (in a dark, cool place). No sooner had the leaves dried than new ones appeared. What to do with him?

Option one, the bulb has rested and is ready to bloom. You can keep it in a dark place for a little while (a week or two) (wait for the peduncle) or immediately place it on the windowsill.
Option two, they retired early. The bulb did not have time to regain its strength and continues to grow. Take it out and let the bulb recover.

Question: Is it necessary to send the baby hippeastrum to rest?

No. There is no need to give children a rest period.

Difference between hippeastrum and amaryllis

Both plants belong to the same Amaryllidaceae family.
At first, both hippeastrum and amaryllis belonged to the genus Amaryllis. Subsequently, taxonomy, due to significant differences in the structure of plants, resulted in two different genera. The botanical name amaryllis went to the species amaryllis belladonna, the rest got the name hippeastrum.

Signs Hippeastrum Amaryllis
Number of species Approximately 50-70 species, although some sources mention up to 85 species one species Amaryllis Belladonna
Origin subtropics and tropics of America South Africa
Number of chromosomes X=11. In most cases, incompatible with other genera of the Amaryllis family. X=11. Freely crosses with other genera of the Amaryllis family, including Crinum, Nerine, Brunsvigia.
Evergreen or deciduous Depends on the species, most species are deciduous, with a pronounced dormant period, but there are species without a pronounced dormant period (evergreen), for example, Hippeastrum Papilio. With a pronounced dormant period, the leaves are shed during the dormant period. A dormant period is necessary for the development of the flower bud.
Flowering period Usually blooms once a year. The flowering period depends on forcing: early forcing means autumn flowering, late forcing means flowering in winter and spring. Some hippeastrums bloom twice a year, usually blooming again in summer. End of summer, autumn. Flowering once a year.
Peduncle (main difference) Hollow, cylindrical, up to 90 cm high, the color of the peduncle is usually green, but can be green with purple, gray or brown shades Not hollow, up to 96 cm high, with a purple tint.
Number of flowers on a peduncle Usually from 2 to 6, but some species have up to 15 flowers with a weak odor or no odor. The number of flowers depends on the species and variety, for example, the species wild Hippeastrum fosteri develops up to 15 flowers on one peduncle, the small-flowered Rapido has up to 9, the small-flowered Jaguar has up to 8, the terry medium-flowered Alfresco has up to 8. from 6 to 12 fragrant flowers.
Color of flowers Red, pink, orange, yellow, green, cream, white; one-color or two-color; with stripes, veined, speckled. Shades of pink range from deep pink-red to almost white.
Shape of flowers Various: double, long-tubular, orchid-like, similar in shape to Leopoldii and Reginae, etc. funnel-shaped
Flower size Depends on the variety and type: from 5 cm to 22 cm from 9 to 13 cm
Perianth petals 6 similar or different in shape and size (depending on the type) 6 similar in shape and size
Bracts (protective casing of the inflorescence) 2 2
Perianth tube Depending on the species, it can be very long, up to 15 cm, or very short, 2-4 cm. short
Leaves Depending on the type, the leaves are green, glossy or matte, silky or hard, long, belt-shaped. Appear before or simultaneously with the flower arrow. Leaves length up to 90 cm, width 3.5-5 cm. The leaves are narrow, bright green, glossy. The shape is grooved. Leaf length is up to 60 cm, width up to 3.5 cm. They appear after flowering (i.e. they bloom in a leafless state).
Bulb, shape symmetrical. Depending on the type, the shape can be different, round, round-conical or slightly elongated. pear-shaped
Bulb, diameter (adult, capable of flowering) 7 cm - more than 10 cm. The size depends on the variety: most wild species, tubular and small-flowered varieties have small bulbs, large-flowered and double-flowered varieties have large bulbs
in an adult plant capable of flowering. The size of the bulb depends on the variety (in small-flowered varieties the size of an adult bulb is smaller than in large-flowered ones)
more than 12 cm.
Scales white in color, the structure resembles onion scales, the scale breaks easily (without effort) grayish in color, have pubescence on the inside (the pubescence looks like cotton wool or cobwebs), it is difficult to tear the scales
Seeds The seed capsule contains about 30-45 flat, black, disc-shaped seeds with flying wings. The embryo is covered with black protective tissue. The seed capsule contains about 20 thick, bulbous, light pomegranate seeds.
Seed germination (germination) Usually about 2 weeks, sometimes a little more. About 56 days.
Features of children's education Usually babies appear closer to the drying scales. An interesting feature in adult bulbs is that children appear between the scales in the middle of the bulb, and several growth points are obtained.
Features of cultivation In indoor conditions it grows and blooms well. Typically, the growing season occurs in spring–summer, the dormant period occurs in autumn, the beginning of winter, and the flowering period occurs in late autumn, winter, and spring. In indoor conditions it is difficult to grow and bloom, because its biological cycle is disrupted. The plant is native to Africa and blooms when it is spring in Africa, during the rainy season. After flowering it vegetates, and during periods of drought and high temperatures it rests. In our conditions, African spring occurs in autumn, so it blooms here (in Russia) in autumn. During the growth period (in our conditions, winter-spring) it lacks light. The plant is very light-loving. Best grown in the garden in direct sun. The temperature should not be lower than 10 degrees, so in the fall they need to be dug up and put in a warmer, brighter place.

The article used the experience of forum members: Veta, Severina, Elena Prekrasnaya, Olga Gr, Faust, ITALIA, Lucien, Apsara, Vesna, Simona, Romashka. Thanks for the experience and advice.

by Notes of the Wild Mistress

Hippeastrum is one of the most common indoor plants. Hippeastrum is often called amaryllis, but there is a difference between these plants: hippeastrums bloom from late winter to early summer, and amaryllis - in autumn. In addition, hippeastrums have a larger flower arrow.

What kind of hippeastrum is it?

The plant has a fleshy bulb and dark green broad-line leaves. Hippeastrum flowers, two or four, are collected in an umbrella. They are brightly colored, with pointed petals, and develop on a leafless, hollow peduncle.

The plant is hardy and light-loving.

How to plant hippeastrum bulbs correctly?

Hippeastrum bulbs are sold in all flower shops - all you have to do is plant the plant correctly and provide it with proper care.

Hippeastrums are replanted once every three years, only the top layer of soil is changed annually.

Hippeastrum bulbs need to be placed separately on a layer of drainage in small pots - the distance between the wall and the bulb was 3-4 cm. Then, to a depth of about 2/3 of the bulb, you need to fill it with ordinary flower soil so that the upper edge with the head protrudes above the ground.

The pot with hippeastrum should be placed in a warm, bright place (on the windowsill above the radiator). And after flowering, you can move it to a sunny and warm place in the room or keep the plant outdoors from late May to late autumn.

During the dormant period from October to December, the hippeastrum is best left in a dark place at a temperature of 12-15 "C.

How to water hippeastrum?

After planting the bulbs in winter, the substrate should be kept slightly moist, and when the flower shoot begins to grow, increase watering. For watering, you only need to take warm water; in addition, until the bud opens, the plant must be sprayed frequently.

From mid-August, in order to prepare for the dormant period, watering of the hippeastrum should be gradually reduced and completely stopped from October.

About once a month, pour water into the pan to prevent the roots from dying. The soil in pots containing resting bulbs should feel dry, not wet. Start moderate watering after transplanting into another pot in mid or late December.

How to fertilize hippeastrum?

During the growing season, hipperastrum should be fertilized weekly with flower fertilizer, and fertilizing should be stopped after the leaves wither and during the dormant period.

Why doesn't hippeastrum bloom?

First of all, check whether you are caring for the plant correctly.

In December - February, pots with bulbs are placed in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 ° C (for example, near a central heating radiator) and not watered until the flower arrow appears, then the pots are transferred to a bright window and warm water is poured into a tray so that the soil dries out well soaked in it. If the water has cooled down and the top layer of soil in the pot is still dry, replace the cooled water with warm water several times. At this time, the hippeastrum is watered very sparingly until the flower shoot reaches 8-10 cm in height, since otherwise the leaves will grow and the flowers will not develop. After this, watering is gradually increased.

A month after flowering, the hippeastrum is transplanted into a fresh earth mixture made up of leaf, humus and turf soil with an admixture of washed coarse sand (1: 2: 1: 1), or into ready-made soil for begonias.

You can grow hippeastrum without a dormant period. In this case, they are kept all year round in a sunny window in a warm room and watered with warm water as the soil dries out. With this care, they bloom twice a year: in October - November and between March and May, the leaves remain healthy and do not lose their decorative effect.

The flowering period of hippeastrum can be extended if the bulbs are gradually replanted from the beginning of March and encouraged to germinate. Trim each wilted flower at the base.

In the wild, hippeastrums are found in South America, with a number of varieties living in subtropical climates and tropics, others prefer rocky slopes, where growing conditions are very harsh. The first bulbs came to Europe in the second half of the 16th century, and the flowering of hippeastrum made a huge impression in the countries of the Old World, where the fashion for bulbous crops was gaining momentum.

Gradually the plant was studied, Europeans learned how to grow hippeastrum and how to care for the flower. A hundred years later, the first hybrid plants were bred. And if in nature there are several dozen species of these bulbous plants, then the number of varieties already exceeds two thousand. Today, any gardener who has at least once seen the spectacular flowering of hippeastrum will certainly not give up the thought of decorating his own windowsill with a luxurious plant.

Hippeastrum: plant features

Depending on the species and age, the hippeastrum bulb has a diameter of 5 to 10 cm and consists of a short section of the stem and surrounding closed scales.

In the axil of every fourth scale the rudiments are formed:

  • peduncle, reaching a height of 40–80 cm as it grows;
  • future large ones, collected in inflorescences of 2–6 flowers.

The leaves of hippeastrum are located opposite each other, in width, depending on the variety, do not exceed 4–5 cm, and in length reach 50–70 cm. A florist planning to grow hippeastrum should know that the year of this plant is divided into three clearly defined period:

  • flowering;
  • vegetation;
  • peace.

When the long-awaited time of flowering arrives, red, white, pink, striped and spotted flowers sitting on the petioles open at the tops of the hollow peduncles.

Large bulbs can form two or three peduncles, but specimens with less than four leaves or that have not reached a diameter of 6–7 cm are unlikely to bloom this season.

Leaves appear one at a time approximately once a month, and when after flowering the plant goes into dormancy for 2 to 3 months, there are no external signs of bulb development, but it is actively accumulating strength. Arrows with bright flowers appear once a year, but with proper care, as in the photo, hippeastrum at home pleases with flowering twice. The timing and duration of this period depend on the selected variety, care features, in particular, on the room temperature. On average, flowering lasts about three weeks.

However, sometimes gardeners cannot get flower shoots to appear from the plant. How to care for hippeastrum so that in addition to leaves, the bulb regularly forms flower stalks? The reason for the lack of flowers is often incorrectly selected conditions for growing hippeastrum or the properties of the bulb:

  • A bulb that stays for a long time in a shaded place or on northern windows, where there is not enough light all year round, can refuse to bloom.
  • If the pot is too spacious or cramped, the hippeastrum also sometimes does not bloom.
  • The quality of flowering is negatively affected by incorrectly chosen regime, fertilizing and even soil composition.
  • Do not forget about the 2.5–3 month rest period necessary for the bulb, when the hippeastrum must be sent to a cool, dark place.

If there are no visible reasons for the refusal to flower, the bulb is healthy and well-fed, it can be forced to throw out the peduncle by resorting to one of the proven methods:

  1. In mid-summer, cut off all the leaves from the bulbs and stop watering. After a month, watering is resumed and a one-time complex fertilizing is carried out. By the beginning of autumn, buds and flowers appear on the hippeastrum.
  2. A set of buds is also observed 20–25 days after three hours of treatment of the bulb with water heated to 43–45 °C.
  3. For the spring flowering of hippeastrum in August, the plant stops watering and is moved to a dark, cool place until January. 5–6 weeks after watering is resumed, the bulb produces buds.

For high-quality flowering, it is important that during the growing season and dormancy the bulb is able to recover and form a peduncle. If the bulb lacks nutrition, perhaps the moment has come when replanting the hippeastrum is simply necessary. This can be evidenced by the entwining of the roots of the entire earthen coma. Do not forget about feeding the hippeastrum.

Longer recovery during the growing season and dormant period is required for small bulbs, as well as those that have suffered some kind of disease or pest attack.

The dormant period involves removing healthy, well-prepared bulbs to a cool, dark place. Most often, hippeastrum bulbs “fall asleep” from September to January. How to care for a flower so that the hippeastrum blooms in due time? No special care is required at this time, and special conditions are created for the bulbs:

  • The optimal temperature is 12–14 °C.
  • Complete blackout.
  • The air is dry, humidity does not exceed 50–60%.
  • Watering and fertilizing stop completely.

How and when to replant hippeastrum?

Hippeastrums quickly take over the earthen ball in a pot and literally suck all the nutrients from the soil.

Therefore, the plant can be replanted almost every year. When is it more convenient and painless for the plant to replant hippeastrum? The best period for transplanting a bulb is the time:

  • before sending for storage during the rest period;
  • after their “hibernation” comes out;
  • before flowering;
  • after flowering has completed, if we are talking about a recently acquired plant located in a transport pot and substrate.

Before replanting hippeastrum:

  • Dead scales are carefully removed from the bulbs;
  • study the root system, if necessary, cutting off rotten or damaged roots and treating the cut areas with a fungicide.

The soil for hippeastrum should be light, loose, low acidity and high in nutrients and mineral salts.

If you have to buy a ready-made mixture, for growing hippeastrum it is better to choose soil for bulbous crops, and then mix it with vermiculite or sand to make it loose.

When the earth mixture is made independently, use three parts of leaf soil and an additive of one part; if necessary, sand and dolomite flour are mixed into the soil:

  • To grow hippeastrum, a pot is enough, the walls of which are 3 cm away from the bulb. Larger containers are only detrimental to flowering.
  • A drainage layer must be installed at the bottom.
  • And the bulb is planted so that most of it remains above the ground.

In the summer months, the bulbs can be planted in open ground, where the same care for the hippeastrum, in the photo, continues as at home. And before frost, the bulbs are dug up and moved indoors.

Lighting when growing hippeastrums

Hippeastrums are photophilous and feel best in the most illuminated places, even tolerating direct sunlight.

But in the shade the plant blooms poorly, the bulb recovers and grows more slowly. The lack of light can be judged by pale, elongated leaves and peduncles. In the shade, your plant may not produce buds at all. If you want to see beautiful blooming inflorescences on your window, choose windows on the south side of the house.

Air temperature and watering features when growing hippeastrum

To ensure that the plant has flowers for as long as possible, caring for hippeastrum at home involves creating optimal temperature and humidity conditions.

  • Daytime air temperature is 20–22 °C;
  • At night, the air should be slightly cooler, about 18 °C.

Hippeastrums do not like temperature changes; during storage it is important not to let the temperature drop below +5 °C, which can damage the flower buds. But in the garden, the plant can withstand short-term frosts down to –1 °C if it is covered with non-woven material.

The optimal air humidity for this type of bulbous plant is 75–80%.

Watering when growing hippeastrum also has its own specifics. Until the needle rises 10–15 cm, the plant is moistened moderately, making sure that the top layer of soil dries out between waterings.

As the flowers begin to open, the amount of moisture is increased, trying to prevent overwatering that is dangerous for the roots.

Feeding hippeastrum

The first feeding of the hippeastrum is carried out no earlier than 4–6 weeks after the plant “awakens”. Then the flower should receive support in the form of fertilizers every two weeks, and the last feeding is carried out for a month before sending the bulb to rest.

Fertilizing is always combined with watering so that the fertilizer gets into the moist soil.

Potassium is considered the most important element in the nutrition of the hippeastrum. When hippeastrum blooms, it is fertilized with a phosphorus-potassium mixture with a small addition of nitrogen. As leaves appear, the proportion of nitrogen is increased, bringing it to the amount of phosphorus. From May until the end of summer, you can alternate feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers. If you use a complex ready-made composition, it is better to choose a mixture for bulbous plants, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 1: 3: 4.5.

How to care for hippeastrum if the plant is grown without soil, in a solution of nutrients? In this case, for 10 liters of water you will need:

  • 3 grams of magnesium sulfate;
  • 9 grams of potash fertilizers;
  • 3 grams of ammonium nitrate;
  • 7 grams of superphosphate,
  • as well as a mixture of microelements.

When growing hippeastrum, you need to remember that an excess of nitrogen can lead to diseases. Such bulbs can rot and tolerate the dormant period less well.

Video about flowering hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is a beautiful bulbous perennial plant that belongs to the Amaryllis family. Flower growers love it for its exotic appearance and chic large flowers, which, depending on the variety, differ in color, pattern and terry size of the petals. How to grow bulbous plants correctly, what care is needed for hippeastrum at home, and what difficulties might a beginner encounter? Experienced florists are ready to give detailed answers to these questions.

What kind of flower is this, hippeastrum?

The flower was first discovered in the subtropics of Central America and only at the beginning of the 17th century was it successfully cultivated and began to be grown in gardens, greenhouses and on window sills. Currently, there are at least 80 plant species that amaze with their beauty and sophistication.

The hippeastrum bulb is small, only 6–10 cm in diameter, and has the shape of a cone. The leaves are large, at least 50 cm long, narrow (4–5 cm), fleshy and dense, rich green in color, with a groove in the middle. The peduncles are long, vertical, rise above the bush and end in inflorescences collected in a group of 4-5 flowers. Thanks to the many varieties, the petals range in color from white and soft pink to rich orange and bright red. The flower may not be uniformly colored, but may have streaks of darker or lighter colors. After flowering, a fruit is formed - a tricuspid capsule with small seeds.

Features of caring for hippeastrum at home

Hippeastrum prefers delicate care and will not tolerate careless treatment. As a true inhabitant of the tropics, lighting, humidity and air temperature are of great importance to it.

Lighting

The flower loves bright light; the daylight hours should be 12 hours. The ideal place for placement is windows on the south side, as well as on the southwest and southeast. To prevent the plants from wilting and getting sunburned, it is better to shade it at noon. To do this, you can prepare cardboard shutters in the form of panels for the windows. Hippeastrum tends to reach for the sun, so in order for it to develop stably, the pot should be periodically turned in different directions. If the plant has enough light, it can reach a height of more than a meter and bloom regularly.

Air temperature

For the heat-loving hippeastrum, care at home should be as close as possible to its natural habitat, and the air temperature should vary depending on the time of year. So, in summer the plant should be kept in the range from +18 °C to +25 °C; during the dormant period, the temperature should be lowered to +10–12 °C, otherwise the bulb will not be able to rest and replenish its reserves of nutrients necessary for flowering.

Air humidity

This indicator does not play a big role, but if the room has dry air or heating devices are running, then it is recommended to periodically spray the hippeastrum, once a day is enough. A refreshing shower or wiping the leaves with a damp sponge or piece of gauze has a beneficial effect on it. Such procedures should be carried out only from spring to autumn and at an air temperature of at least +20 °C, otherwise it can provoke various diseases. You can spray only the leaves and stems of the plant, avoiding droplets getting on the inflorescences. Water may cause stains on the petals, depriving them of their decorative properties.

Watering hippeastrum

This is one of the most important factors; home care for hippeastrum should provide it with regular, abundant watering during flowering. The water should not be cold; plants are extremely sensitive to its temperature. When watering, you should find a “golden mean”, despite the fact that the flower requires a lot of water at the beginning of the growing season, destructive waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed. The soil should be moderately moist, but not wet. It is better to water through a tray; the soil will absorb as much moisture as required. It is enough to carry out the procedure once a day; the frequency of watering depends on the level of soil moisture, but in the summer, most likely, the plant will require daily “quenching of thirst.”

Important! The plant should be watered carefully, without getting on top of the bulb; direct exposure to water can cause it to rot.

Soil composition for growing hippeastrum

The flower prefers fertile, loose, oxygen-rich substrates. Recommended soil composition:

  • turf soil - 2 parts,
  • fresh humus - 1 part,
  • peat – 1 part,
  • middle fraction sand – 1 part.

Be sure to prepare drainage: coarse expanded clay, broken shards or brick. Its volume should be at least 1/5 of the pot. It is recommended to plant the bulb on sand, and not in a ready-made substrate. Such a “pillow” 1-2 cm thick will protect it from the development of rot and other infections.

Fertilizer application

An integral part of hippeastrum care is the comprehensive application of fertilizers during the flowering period. Feeding should begin in the spring, as the leaves grow; during this period, you can use complex mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants. With the appearance of flower stalks and before the end of the flowering period, the fertilizer is changed to a universal mixture for flowering indoor plants or for amaryllis. Frequency of fertilizing: 2 times a month, alternating organic and mineral compositions.

Choosing a pot for hippeastrum

In order for the plant to grow well, develop and delight with flowers, the pot should be selected in a small size; its diameter should be only 3 cm larger than the bulb. If you choose a larger container, the flower will have many children, leaves, and it is possible that it will not bloom. To prevent the roots from being crowded, it is better to choose a fairly tall container.

How to plant hippeastrum correctly?

The plant does not tolerate transplantation well and to avoid stress it is better to use transshipment. If the flower was bought in a store, then you should lightly moisten the soil, place the container on its side and gently tap on it, as if “shaking out” the earthen lump. It is necessary to moisten the soil in order to reduce damage to the roots. After the earthen ball is removed from the old container, it is placed in a new pot. You need to carefully ensure that the bulb is only 2/3 immersed in the soil, and the upper part remains outside.

It is recommended to replant the first couple of years of hippeastrum annually in the spring before flowering begins. In adulthood, once every 2 years after flowering is enough. During transplantation, especially of adult plants, children can be found. In this case, they are carefully cut off with a sharp knife, sprinkling the cut areas with charcoal to prevent infection.

Advice! In the summer, it is recommended to plant hippeastrum in the garden or take it out onto the balcony. Natural temperature changes during the day and night have a positive effect on its health and flowering, and growing it in open ground will provide a lot of children.

How to take care of hippeastrum after flowering and during the dormant period?

After the plant has flowered, you need to wait until the last inflorescences and peduncle dry. Only after this can the peduncle shoot be cut off, leaving a small stump of about 3 cm. During this time, the bulb will have time to pick up the remaining nutrients in it. When summer is still in full swing, there is a high probability that the hipeastrium will bloom again, but if autumn (October) has arrived, then it must be prepared for “hibernation.”

In winter, caring for hippeastrum is not difficult. Watering is gradually reduced, and the plant is moved to a cooler and darker place. At this point, its leaves and stems are dry and can be cut off. The pot with the bulb is stored lying on its side at a temperature from +10 °C to +12 °, watering and fertilizing are completely stopped, the soil should be dry. The awakening of the flower begins in late January - mid-February; for this, it is moved to a warmer place and gradually begins to be watered. With the appearance of new leaves, you can apply fertilizer.

Hippeastrum refuses to bloom

Sometimes, even the most competent care of hippeastrum at home cannot guarantee regular flowering. There are 3 methods, repeatedly tested in practice.

  1. Before planting, the bulb should be kept in warm water for at least 3 hours; the temperature should be clearly at +43–45 °C. Next, the plant is planted according to the usual scheme; such a “bath” will ensure guaranteed flowering in 21 days.
  2. For a too capricious flower, the onset of the dormant period is ensured a little earlier - in August, by stopping watering and placing it in a dark, cool place. But awakening, as usual, is at the end of January. Such rest guarantees flowering in the coming year.
  3. In mid-July, the leaves must be cut off and watering of the plant should be stopped. After 30 days, you should water the flower with water, and then apply complex fertilizer. This “shock therapy” will allow you to enjoy the blooming hippeastrum already at the end of August or September.

Important! The plant refuses to bloom for a reason; it probably lacks micronutrients, but it is quite possible that the bulb has rotted or pests have appeared. Therefore, before stimulating flowering using the above methods, you should observe the flower, perhaps in this way it gives signals for help.

Diseases and pests of hippeastrum

A strong, healthy hippeastrum - home care should begin with a daily and thorough examination. This is the only way to notice a disease or pest in time and begin treatment.

  • The plant suddenly stopped growing and there were no new leaves. Most likely, the bulb is damaged; it is recommended to remove it from the pot and inspect it for pests.
  • Blackening of the inflorescences indicates that the hippeastrum is frozen or the soil is too wet. Damaged flowers need to be cut off and the pot moved to a warmer place, stopping watering the plant.
  • Another sign that the flower is too damp is pale and limp leaves. You need to check that the holes in the bottom of the pot are not clogged and that the drainage is well ventilated. Watering should be stopped for a while and the soil should be allowed to dry thoroughly.

Most often, when caring for hippeastrum, you can notice such serious diseases as gray rot and red burn of the bulb (staganosporosis). Diseases are not so easy to identify and if treatment is not started in time, the plants are difficult to save.

  • Gray rot is a fungal spore that affects the leaves and looks like a gray coating. It is better to remove severely damaged leaves immediately, and spray the remaining leaves with a 2% solution of laundry soap and a 2% solution of copper sulfate, mixed in equal parts. Most often, this disease is caused by high humidity.
  • A red burn on an onion can be seen by characteristic bright spots or stains; these places should be carefully cut out, and the sections should be treated with brilliant green or foundation, and then sprinkled with charcoal powder. You should make sure that there are no more new lesions on the bulb, and only then plant it in fresh soil and a disinfected container. The disease is provoked by too high air temperature and humidity.

Pests can be easily detected by inspecting the plant. Thrips and aphids are small insects that are located over the entire surface of the leaf, and mites should be looked for on the reverse side along the characteristic silvery cobwebs. To combat them, you can use spraying with a solution of laundry or green soap, as well as more modern medications.

Carefully! Hippeastrum juice is very poisonous, so it is advisable to carry out all work with gloves and not leave it in the children's room. At the first signs of poisoning (vomiting, diarrhea), you should consult a doctor, as complications may occur that cause impaired renal function.

In general, caring for hippeastrum is not much different from caring for other bulbous plants. The worst thing for them is dampness; proper watering will save you from many problems and allow you to enjoy the beauty of the blooming “star” throughout the spring-summer period.

Hippeastrum care video

Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) is a genus of plants in the Amaryllidaceae family, which includes about 90 species common in the tropics and subtropics of America. The largest number of hippeastrum species are found in the Amazon River basin. The name of the genus is derived from two ancient Greek words meaning “horseman” and “star”. The hippeastrum plant came to Europe in the 16th century and quickly became popular among gardeners. In 1799, the first hippeastrum hybrid appeared, and in the sixties of the 19th century there were already about a hundred plant varieties.

Features of hippeastrum transplantation at home

If you dream of getting larger flowers and more lush leaves, you should transplant the hippeastrum directly into the flowerbed for the summer. Here the plant can gain strength until September. There is no need to wait for the first cold nights; it is better to return the plant to home conditions in advance.

Hippeastrum depletes the soil over time, despite fertilizing and proper care. Therefore, it needs to be replanted into new soil at least once every two or three years. But you need to have a good idea of ​​how to transplant hippeastrum. This can be done only a month after flowering has completed. As a rule, the time when you can replant a flower is the end of August. You can also transplant the bulb in December, during the dormant period. Replant with extreme caution so as not to damage the roots of the plant. After destroying the earthen clod, cut off all the dried roots and sprinkle the cut areas with crushed charcoal. After this, plant the bulb in new soil.

If you bought this flower in a store, then it is not necessary to replant it in the first year. It is quite possible to get by by replacing the top layer of soil without removing the flower from the pot. It is very important to know whether hippeastrum can be replanted during flowering.

Time to transplant hippeastrum at home

Since Hippeástrum bulbs very quickly extract all nutrients from the soil, it is advisable to replant the flower twice a year. Young bulbs are subject to frequent transshipment. But flower growers still prefer to leave perennials untouched for four to five years, provided that the flower, when cultivated at home, regularly throws out arrows with inflorescences and does not get sick.

The best time to transplant the hippeastrum:

  • the initial phase of hibernation is the end of September;
  • the end of the dormant period is early spring.

Beginning flower growers should know that hippeastrum cannot be replanted during vigorous flowering. This should be done before the inflorescences are released or after the flowering arrow has dried out.

  • if the plant bulb is sick - it has a so-called “red burn” or “red rot”;
  • if mature children take away the plant’s strength;
  • if the hippeastrum does not bloom for a long time, the bulbs can delay the release of inflorescences for several years;
  • if the bulb has reached the diameter of the container in which it was planted.

Latest articles about gardening

If a beautifully blooming hippeastrum is purchased in a store, the flower requires replanting within one week. The soil in which the purchased specimen is planted is depleted. The bulb, under the influence of stimulants, spends energy on the release of the largest inflorescence, after which it requires rehabilitation - mandatory transshipment.

Pot and soil for transplanting hippeastrum at home

The size of the pot will directly depend on the size of the hippeastrum bulb. Please note: when planting, the bulb should be placed in the middle of the pot, leaving 5 cm to each edge. Thus, the pot for this flower must be at least 15 cm in diameter.

As for the height of the pot, on the contrary, it should not be too high, because the bulb does not need to be completely immersed in the soil (its upper part remains half above the ground). In addition, at the bottom of the pot it will be necessary to lay out drainage from stones, and above it there is still a fairly large layer of soil.

Before preparing the soil, it is necessary to lay out a drainage layer on the bottom of the dish. Expanded clay and pebbles are quite suitable; the use of small pieces of red brick is allowed. The drainage layer should be 5 cm. This will help the plants quickly get rid of excess water, preventing rotting of the root system. The mixture must have excellent nutritional properties, be water-permeable, and breathe normally. The soil characteristics must be either neutral or alkaline. You can simplify the task by purchasing ready-made soil intended for bulbous plants.

Caring for hippeastrum at home

Watering hippeastrum

The intensity of watering of hippeastrum is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant not only with the required amount of moisture, but also to correctly deliver it to the root system.

For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the onion - it may rot. It is better to combine top watering with tray watering. This way the moisture will be evenly distributed throughout the earthen ball, which will prevent rotting of the roots. The main rule for watering hippeastrum: it is better to underwater than to overwater. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.

Required room temperature

The ideal temperature at which the plant feels quite comfortable is the range from 17 to 25 degrees Celsius. Moreover, in winter it can be lowered slightly. But temperature changes are still undesirable, since this can negatively affect the growth of the hippeastrum. A drop in air temperature by a slight 5 degrees can make the flowering process impossible. That is why you need to carefully monitor the stability of the temperature in the room.

Light mode for hippeastrum

This plant loves light very much, and this should never be forgotten. Direct sunlight is not scary for him, but it is still better to avoid such situations. The best place to place a pot with a plant is considered to be the south, southwest or southeast sides. Diffused light is preferable.

During the dormant period, hybrids of this plant actively lose leaves, which is why it is recommended to move it to a darker place with a lower temperature during this period.

Latest articles about gardening

How to properly feed hippeastrum?

The composition of the fertilizer depends on the stage of development. The most important element is potassium. Fertilize approximately once every two weeks.

During the flowering period, emphasis is placed on phosphorus-potassium and a low nitrogen content.

At the beginning of the growing season, the emphasis is on nitrogen-potassium, in the middle nitrogen-phosphorus in equal proportions, slightly more potassium.

A month before the dormant period, feeding is stopped.

A few rules: you can’t fertilize on dry soil, after replanting, the first fertilizing is no earlier than 1.5-2 months, carefully read the instructions and dilute according to the instructions, do not overdose.

Reproduction of hippeastrum at home

Hippeastrum can be propagated by separating daughter bulbs, dividing the main bulb into parts, or growing from seeds. As a rule, it is easier and better to use the first 2 methods. To do this, you need to plant daughter bulbs or part of the main bulb with roots and bottom in soil consisting of sand, turf soil and peat, keep the soil moist and the air temperature 24-25 0 C. When the bulbs adapt and new plants begin to sprout from them, they need to be planted in separate pots, which should not be excessively large, it is better to use pots slightly larger than the size of the bulb, preferably the distance between the edges of the pot and the bulb is no more than 5 cm. In this case, the bulbs should be buried no more than half into the soil! After transplanting, use the above concepts for caring for adult plants.