Home Pipes and fittings Spring-piston rifle - dart thrower. Spring-piston shotgun from scrap materials Homemade spring-piston pneumatics in detail

Spring-piston rifle - dart thrower. Spring-piston shotgun from scrap materials Homemade spring-piston pneumatics in detail

The article will look at an example of creating a simple spring-piston rifle that shoots darts. According to the author, such a rifle can easily hit a beer can from a distance of 20 meters. The homemade product is made from scrap materials, and the process of assembling it is quite simple.

Materials and tools for homemade work:
- aerosol can;
- tires from a bicycle inner tube;
- a cylinder made of wood;
- plastic or sheet metal;
- a piece of thick board;
- electrical tape;
- spring;
- nail 15 cm long;
- tube (made of metal or plastic);
- wooden planks;
- nails;
- tube for making a barrel (plastic or metal);
- steel washer;
- rope.

Tools you will need: file (or emery), cold welding, lathe(can be replaced with a drill), pliers, jigsaw, drill, scissors and rubber glue.

Making a dart launcher:

Step one. Making a cylinder
To make the cylinder, the author used an empty aerosol can. To make a cylinder out of it, you need to remove the back wall of the can. For this purpose, you need to grind off the back part with a file or emery so that it falls out on its own. Next, the sharp edges must be processed with sandpaper or a file so that they become smooth. At the final stage, the inside of the cylinder must be washed with water.

Step two. Making a piston
The piston is turned from wood; for these purposes you will need a lathe, but a drill and a chisel are also suitable as a processing tool. The end result should be a piece like this, as seen in the photo. The chamfer is selected experimentally; it will contain the rubber piston skirt.

In order for the piston to create pressure when moving in the cylinder, you will need to make a skirt for it; it is made from a bicycle inner tube. It can also be made from plastic bottle, but here to reach proper operation it will be more difficult, but with this approach there will be less friction force. To make a rubber skirt, you need to cut a strip in the form of an arc. It needs to be glued to the piston, as can be seen in the photo, and a metal plate is glued on top, according to the author this is duralumin. The disk is additionally fixed with screws, and the piston skirt is finally wrapped with electrical tape.

Step three. Manufacturing of the piston rod
To make the rod you will need a large nail. You also need to make a support for the spring; to do this, you need to attach another disk to the piston. The result should be a design similar to the one in the photo.

Step four. Installing the piston into the cylinder
To install the piston into the cylinder, you need to drill a hole in the center of the bottom; the piston rod will go into this hole. As for the spring, one side of it will rest against the piston, and the other against the bottom of the cylinder. You also need to drill a couple of holes in the bottom so that air can freely enter under the piston.

As a result, if you pull the piston to the rear wall and then suddenly release it, an air flow will form in the front part. Graphite grease can be used as a lubricant, others may have a higher viscosity and will slow down the piston movement. The author used finely ground flour as a lubricant.

Step five. Making a bed
The stock must first be drawn on a newspaper; here everything depends on the size of the cylinder. Next, it is cut out of a thick board using a jigsaw. As for the trigger mechanism, it will be the same as that of a crossbow; for it, a hole must be drilled in the stock.

Step six. Installing the cylinder in the stock
A hole needs to be drilled in the cylinder rod, then a loop of nail is inserted into it. You will also need to make another hole in the rod for the cocking system.

The cylinder must be secured in the stock; additional supports from nails will need to be made for the bottom of the cylinder.

As for the rod loop, it will be fixed in the trigger mechanism, the principle of which is borrowed from the crossbow. As a result, you will need to make a part, as in the photo. The author has it made of three parts of metal, which are glued together. The cross indicates the axis of rotation. How it will work trigger, can be seen in the video.

Step seven. Rifle barrel

To connect the barrel to the can, you will need to make a “U”-shaped structure from tubes. For these purposes, the author used a tube from an old antenna, which he cut into 3 pieces and then connected using cold welding. Everything must be sealed.

As for the barrel, you will need another pipe to make it; here we use a steel tube from a bed with a diameter of about 9 mm. Since the tube has a seam, it had to be wrapped with tape. The barrel must have a hook for the cocking mechanism.

The barrel has one degree of freedom, that is, it can move forward and backward.

Spring piston dart thrower

Manufacturing difficulty: ★★★★☆

Production time: A couple of days

Materials at hand: ██████████ 100%

One day in the village I got bored and decided to make another shooting thing. I was very limited in materials and tools, so after rummaging around for several days in the backyard and the local trash heap, I made a spring-piston dart launcher rifle, from which I can easily hit a beer can from 20 meters. It all started when I found a spring in the backyard.

Aerosol can
Wooden cylinder
Bike tube rubber
Sheet metal or plastic
Insulating tape
Nail 15cm
Spring (I don’t know what it’s from, I found it)
Thick board
Metal or plastic tube
Wood planks
Nails
Steel or plastic tube (barrel)
Rope
Metal washer

Emery or file
Lathe (you can try a drill)
Scissors
Adhesive for rubber
Drill
Jigsaw
Pliers
Cold welding (POXIPOL)
Insulating tape

How to make a piston rifle - dart thrower

First you need to make a piston cylinder. I found an empty aerosol can of insect repellent at a landfill. Using sandpaper, I sanded the end of the bottom until the seam between the metal of the bottom itself and the wall of the cylinder became visible.

After this, using pliers or tapping, you can pull out the bottom

Be sure to file the burrs and rinse the inner surface of the can

It's time to make the piston itself. I have a small wood lathe, but you can also use a drill, clamp the workpiece in it and use the chisel as a cutter. You need to make something like this. Moreover, the inclined chamfer is selected experimentally, a rubber piston skirt will be attached to it and the piston itself will be formed.

In order for the piston to move hermetically around the cylinder, it needs to be made of rubber.

After a couple of years I thought that I could make a skirt out of a plastic bottle, it would be more difficult to adjust, but there would be less friction

We glue it to the piston, and on top I glued a metal disk (like duralumin)

The disc was secured with screws, the piston skirt was additionally reinforced with electrical tape

The piston rod will be a huge nail

To support the spring, I made another disk and secured it to the piston
This is what the assembled piston and spring look like

I made a hole in the bottom of the cylinder for the piston rod (nail) and also made several additional holes so that air could easily pass behind the piston. Let me explain a little: the spring rests against the piston and the bottom of the cylinder. If you pull the rod, the piston will move from the neck of the cylinder to the bottom, taking in air. If you release the rod, the air will suddenly escape from the neck of the cylinder.

Rubber glides rather poorly on the smooth metal of the cylinder, liquid lubricants They slow down the piston significantly, as they have viscosity and a decent contact area. For greasing I used regular fine flour. You can try graphite lubricant.

Bed of a spring-piston dart thrower

I drew the stock on a newspaper according to the dimensions of the cylinder and rod and my preferences, and cut it out of a thick board with a jigsaw

The trigger mechanism will be crossbow type, I drilled a hole for it in the stock

I made a loop on the piston rod using a nail by drilling a hole in the rod. Also, just below it is necessary to make another hole for the cocking system (I will explain later)

I secure the cylinder in the stock, and for the bottom of the cylinder I make additional stops from nails

The rod loop will be held in the trigger mechanism like a crossbow. I made this part from three layers of metal, they are glued together with glue. Cross - point of rotation (on paper)

Watch the video carefully to see how the trigger mechanism will work.

Now you need to connect the hole in the top of the can to the barrel. For this I used a tube from an old antenna

Three parts were cut from the tube

We connect the tube using cold welding. Sealed!

I fix one end of the tube in the hole of the cylinder

At the other end of the tube you need to make a sealed mount for the barrel. In my case, this is a piece of tube, slightly larger in diameter than the barrel with a piece of rubber inside. The barrel is pressed against the rubber, this ensures tightness.

In the stock the tube looks like this

The barrel is made from a tube from old bed, caliber about 9 mm. The tube is very rusty inside and also has a seam. I cleaned it as best I could and wrapped it with tape to seal it (to close the seam)

A hook is attached to the barrel for the cocking mechanism, more on that later.

We bring to the attention of the respected community another craft coded as “Chimera”.

Brief description: PP rifle with a fixed barrel, reverse piston, trigger trigger and lever cocking. Loading is carried out directly into the barrel, the breech of which opens due to the forced rollback of the compressor when the cocking lever is turned.

History of creation: the new propeller was conceived as a development of the concept of a movable compressor, as a method of charging PPP, first tested on Murena (link) and is intended to eliminate some of the shortcomings of the previous design, replacing them with new ones... Leaving aside long and tedious explanations of the reasons that caused the need for the changes themselves and the tortuous train of thought that led to this or that constructive solution, I will describe the final, so to speak, product. As you can already see in the photos, the device has a classic stock. It’s not very visible, but you can guess that it is equipped with a full-size barrel, hidden in a metal casing, which in fact is not just a cosmetic element, but the real receiver itself, containing all the other parts and assemblies and bearing all the loads that arise during operation of the system.

And it’s not visible at all, but, again, you can guess what exactly “assemblies and parts” are there: First of all, this is, of course, the compressor. As already stated in " brief description", the compressor is turned backwards. You can also add that it is located under the barrel and - for lovers of intimate details - its origin is purely proletarian, i.e. from Murka. Of course, for use in the new system, it had to be somewhat modified: for starters Everything unnecessary was cut off from it - the fins, staples, horns were cut off. Then the housing for the moving part of the trigger was welded to it (and there is also a fixed one, but more on that later), a new backplate was made and the bypass housing was also modified. piston: the cocking bar stop was cut off as unnecessary, and its role was taken over by the former hook - now the cocking rod clings to it, and in order to properly perform this function it was necessary to slightly change its shape. The sear now clings to the slot in the piston, like in 6*. x Izhey.

All this equipment is comfortably placed in the already mentioned receiver and is attached to it with just two pins - the 1st, with a diameter of 6 mm, passes through a horizontal groove in the back, and the 2nd, with a diameter of 4 mm, goes through the lower hole of the earring. This primitive but effective design allows the compressor to roll back under the action of the cocking lever while simultaneously lowering the rear part (of the compressor, of course), thereby opening the breech of the barrel for loading.
The next unit hiding in our box is the mysterious “fixed part of the trigger”, which it was promised to “talk about further”.

The need for the existence of this unit is due to the mobility of the compressor: the mechanism that locks the piston must, naturally, always be with it, i.e., on the compressor, and move with it, and it is advisable to have the trigger always in the same, familiar place. To overcome this contradiction, such an exotic “two-block” version of the USM was adopted. As was already said above: “the sear clings to the slot in the piston” - here it should be noted that this is the first sear, and there is also a second one, and it is this that stops the first one, preventing it from releasing the piston. All this equipment forms the first - mobile - USM block. To be completely complete, it lacks one little thing - an external impulse that unlocks the mechanism for firing a shot. This is the function of the second - stationary part. It consists of a trigger, a hammer and a pair of intermediate levers that serve to hold the hammer in the cocked state and release it when the SK is pressed. All these parts + their springs are enclosed in a housing, which, in turn, is enclosed inside the receiver. The sequence of actions of all these mechanics is as follows: the cocking lever rotates down and forward, cocking the spring; the compressor moves back, simultaneously lowering its rear part (the one with the bypass); the second sear with its rear part acts on the safety gear, through it bringing the trigger to the safety cocking position; the piston reaches its extreme position, the tooth of the first sear enters the slot of the piston; the second sear - under the action of its spring - stops the first. The rifle is cocked, the breech is open for loading. We load the bullet and begin to close the lever. And the entire filling of the receiver returns with it and rises to the place where the trigger, placed together with the trigger in that very “fixed part” of the trigger, awaits its moment. The trigger is in the “safety cock” position and does not touch the sear. Moreover, it is blocked from forward movement, and at the same time blocks the SC, ensuring complete safety of the cocked rifle. To fire a shot, the hammer must be cocked to the firing position. After release, the trigger hits the tail of the second sear. Turning under the influence of this blow, it releases the first sear, and boom! If necessary, you can postpone the shot - you can remove the trigger from the combat cock and put it back in the safety position. There is also a safety lock against firing with an open barrel.
Dixi.
R.S. Someone, not satisfied with this colorful description of the innumerable advantages of the device, will perhaps want dry numbers listing meters, kilograms, etc.: I answer: happiness is not in meters, and there is no need to make a cult out of kilograms. Let the newly born creature grow up - you will have meters and everything else.

20620 10/08/2019 6 min.

Pneumatic spring-piston (PPP) pistols are a type of small arms, the mechanism of their operation is based on the impact of compressed air or gas on the projectile. Air guns have long story development and improvement. Due to the simplicity of the operating principle and the reliability of the mechanism, it remains popular in our time.

History of creation

History of the discovery and use of the principle of projectile throwing by exposing it to compressed air, it is rooted in Ancient Egypt And South America. Pneumatic weapons acquired their recognizable image today in 1430, when the German gunsmith Hutter made the first.

That's why Germany is considered the birthplace of pneumatics. The operating principle of Gutter's invention was approved and taken up by others. Centuries of refinements and improvements began, and in 1607 the first gas-cylinder pneumatic systems appeared.

At this time, air guns are a luxury item, given as gifts to kings and queens.

In 1653-1655 there were the first pistols and shotguns were made, the design of which included an air cylinder.

In 1790, thanks to improvements, they were able to fire a series of shots from a gun equipped with a compressed air cylinder. At the same time, the first “shooting canes” appear– a pneumatic weapon disguised as an accessory.

Surely you will also like the material about choosing an air pistol according to.

Since the 18th century, pneumatics have become increasingly popular and widespread and begin to be used not only for hunting, but also as a military weapon. are now quite acceptable. In Europe, the first weapons companies began to emerge in place of individual workshops.

In 1880, a foundry opened in Barcelona to produce lead bullets, and later the company’s flagship became the creation of Gamo air guns. The well-known German airgun production company Carl Walther GmbH Sportwaffen was founded in 1886. For example, she releases .

American company Crosman Arms Company was founded in 1923 and today remains one of the leaders in the production of pneumatics and accessories. The company produces .

In July 1942, the history of the Russian Izhevsk Mechanical Plant begins. It was opened for the purpose of producing military weapons. In 1949, production of sporting small arms began. And in 1990, the plant produced the legendary IZH-53M, a spring-piston pneumatic pistol.

Surely everyone has heard about the famous Colt 1911 pistol, about it.

Operating principle

Simplicity of the spring-piston mechanism ensures its reliability and durability. The basis of the design of this type of pneumatics is an air cylinder, which is a continuation of the barrel channel, a piston and a spring. For example, watch the design and operating principle of the M1911 spring-piston pistol in the video:

The acceleration of the piston is determined by the spring pressure and the force of air pressure located between the piston and the bottom of the cylinder.

The action on the cocking lever causes the piston inside the air cylinder to move, and the mainspring is compressed. The trigger mechanism of the pistol holds the piston in this state. When the trigger is activated, the piston moves inside the tank under the pressure of a compressed spring, and then inertial movement occurs due to its mass and the transmitted residual force.

The air gap separating the projectile is compressed. The movement of the bullet begins at the moment the compressed air overcomes the frictional force of the projectile material against the walls of the barrel bore.

Since the volume of the barrel segment that the bullet traversed is less than the volume of the cylinder, and the force of the spring weakens, the piston encounters an air barrier and begins a return movement.

At this time, the projectile receives maximum momentum and leaves the barrel, and the piston, as a result of the pressure drop in the cylinder, goes to the bottom of the cylinder.

In the design with a movable cylinder, the piston is placed inside this “glass”. Acting on the cocking lever pulls back the additional cylinder and piston, compressing the mainspring and opening the charging window.

When you press the trigger, the piston begins to move inside the “glass”, which closes the charging window and the breech end of the barrel bore. The projectile is pushed out by a compressed air gap.

A more detailed diagram for a specific pistol can be found in the passport supplied with the weapon. In addition, it is worth reading the material about.

Distinctive Features

The PPP earned the popular name “fracture” for the common type of platoon – fracture. Most pneumatic spring piston guns range from 3 to 7.5 Joules.

According to the legislation of the Russian Federation, a gun whose power is below 3 Joules, regardless of caliber, is not a weapon and is intended for training or recreational shooting.

When shooting from spring-piston pistols, different projectiles are used depending on its model: Diabolo bullet, Flaubert cartridge (upon reaching 18 years of age) and a steel explosive ball. The initial speed of a bullet in a PPP with a caliber of 4.5 millimeters (0.5 grams) is 100-380 m/s (the same speed of rifles). The carved barrel ensures accuracy of combat.

Spring-piston air pistols can serve for a long time for sport shooting or as a training aid for zeroing, but they have weak point- mainspring. Over time or due to improper use and storage of the gun, the service life of the spring decreases.

The spring can be replaced with a regular one, installed with a gas one, or combined. The source of energy in a gas spring is compressed gas. It is used as a transmission element that influences the piston when firing.

A gas spring is much more expensive than a twisted one, but more durable, In addition, it reduces recoil and noise during a shot. It is also possible that the mainspring is compressed by a battery. This type of spring-piston pneumatics is called electropneumatics.

What is the price

Pneumatic spring-piston pistols are represented on the Russian market by the following manufacturing countries:

Russia (Baikal, Anix).
Türkiye (BLOW).
Spain (Gamo, Cometa Indian).
Germany (Walther PPS Black, Umarex).
USA (Crosman, Benjamin).
China (SPA).
Brazil (Magtech).
France (KWC).

On average, prices for PPP range from 1,500 to 10,000 rubles. The cost depends on the manufacturer and technical characteristics of the pistol.

When choosing pneumatics, you should not pay attention solely to the prestige of the brand and the “nobility” of the model, since they are not the equivalent of quality.

Under technical characteristics implied:

pistol power depending on the purpose of purchasing the pistol (3-7.5 J);
type and initial velocity of the projectile (100-380 m/s);
operating principle and energy source (gas-spring system, electro-pneumatics);
type of barrel depending on the type of ammunition used (rifled weapons when using Flaubert cartridges and lead bullets, smooth-bore weapons when using metal balls);
material used for the production of the body (metal, alloy, plastic) and handle (wood, plastic);
type of cocking (frame lever, barrel fracture);
total length and length of the barrel itself, weight;
presence/absence of an automatic fuse;
the presence of a BlowBack system (a system for simulating shutter recoil).

Based on these characteristics, you can decide on a weapon; read about how to choose a sports air pistol.

Advantages and disadvantages of PPP

The advantages of PPP are:

Ease of use – pneumatic guns are often used in outdoor shooting ranges; even children shoot from them.
Reliability of the mechanism, fault tolerance due to the simplicity of the design.
Availability in terms of price.
Inspection and repairs will also not require large expenses.
Cheap one shot.
Relative noiselessness.
Power at close range.
Stable air pressure ensuring a constant bullet exit velocity.

The disadvantages of spring-piston pneumatics include:

Single-shot - if the model does not have automatic equipment, then to fire a new shot you need to reload.
Recharging takes a lot of time.
Strong recoil, as a result, decreases shooting accuracy.
It is impossible to install simple sights, since recoil can cause the fragile lens to become cracked.
Large mass of air pistol.
Inadmissibility of a blank shot.
When left in a charged state for a long time, the spring and/or cuff become unusable.
The target firing range is 10-15 meters.

When buying an air rifle, many people prefer spring-piston models due to their low cost and the absence of the need to buy a pump or high-pressure cylinder. But not all shooting enthusiasts know that making a PCP air rifle with your own hands is not such an impossible task. Few owners of fractures like shooting so much that they are willing to pay 15-20 thousand for the purchase of a PCP rifle and another five thousand for a pump (the cylinder costs closer to ten thousand). But many would like to have a PCP rifle at a similar price and are willing to buy a pump. Of course, owning a PCP must start with a high-pressure air source, either a pump or a cylinder with a charging station (which can be refilled from divers or firefighter friends).

So what to do if you want a rifle, but don’t have much money? There is a way out. Air rifle with your own hands is a real opportunity to have an inexpensive air balloon. Quite a lot of different kits are sold on the air gun market (from the English kit - assembly kit, designer). The price of a kit equipped to convert a spring (multi-compression) model into a PCP version is in the range of 6-8 thousand rubles. As a rule, from the technical side of the issue, no difficulties arise. All you need is a file, pliers and a hammer.

Step 1 - search for a donor in stores, flea markets and attics

IZH-60.61 (MR-60.61) rifles are suitable for conversion to PCP. The difference between the IZ and the MR is in the receiver, the IZ is metal, the MR is plastic. It depends on the year of manufacture. The list of rifles also includes: MP-553, MP-553K, Crosman Benjamine Discovery. The pistols being converted have a much wider selection, but they are all Crosman. Models: 1377,1322, 2240, 2300, American Classic Pistole. It doesn’t matter what condition the donor is in, the main condition is a complete receiver and trigger (for pistols there’s also a handle). Suitable model can be purchased both in stores and from individuals in used condition. You can also exchange your existing rifle for the desired donor. Before remaking the air vent, study the theory; on the Internet, many professionals give advice on specialized sites.

Step 2 – Preparing the necessary tools

Assembling the PCP rifle does not require any special tools. However, not everyone has a hacksaw or a set of needle files. Scroll the necessary tool looks like this:

a set of needle files of different grain sizes;
thin-nose pliers, pliers;
hammer;
metal file (jigsaw);
drills of various diameters.

Step 3 – Buy the kit

It is better to buy a kit from a trusted seller; kit authors have their own threads on forums selling kits (the most popular are Kruger or Kuente). You need to carefully choose the seller; you should not chase the cheapest. The sales topic should have a lot of pages (it should have been created a long time ago), and both moderators and long-registered users should be noted in the comments in the topic. As a rule, sellers indicate payment details in the topic header. If someone asks you in a personal message to pay using other details, they are scammers.

Step 4 - Disassembling the Rifle

Let's look at the assembly of a PCP rifle using the MP-60 (Kruger's Sniper kit) as an example. The most common rifle model. First you need to disassemble the rifle. All you need is a receiver with a compressor pipe, a barrel and a trigger mechanism.

It is necessary to unscrew the buttplate screw and four screws on both sides of the rifle.

Then you need to remove the retaining ring at the end of the compressor pipe.

Pull out the pin securing the cocking lever and the back of the compressor pipe

and, turning counterclockwise, pull out the cocking lever, aligning it with the cutout in the pipe

And first pull out the back (carefully pulling it out counterclockwise), then the spring and all the other giblets.

Step 5 – preparing the donor for kit installation

After disassembly, it is necessary to clean everything from old grease and be sure to use a file to go through all the sharp edges of the compressor pipe (inside and outside). This is necessary for the normal operation of the strike group. It is also better to remove the sear and use a file to process the part that holds the firing pin in the cocked position. It would be a good idea to polish the inside of the pipe.

Step 6 - PCP Assembly

The kit comes in this form:

high pressure tank
protective cover (protects pressure gauge and filling port)
hammer spring tension adjustment device
drummer
The disk is no longer included due to the many assembly videos on the Internet
barrel rail for installing optics (fits onto the barrel)
connecting figure eight for tank and barrel
integrated sound moderator
additional sound moderator (additional option)
filling connection
Quick filling fitting (additional option)
set of sealing rubber products (as spare parts)
spare safety valve

First, we install the reservoir, it must be lubricated (in the place where the rubber bands are) with silicone grease, carefully twisting it, insert it into the compressor pipe and fix it with two screws (without tightening it all the way). In this case, you need to align the holes for the bolts and the bypass. You need to insert the tank extremely carefully so as not to cut off the rubber seals.

Then the barrel strip and the connecting eight are installed. If the figure eight enters with force, then it is necessary to unscrew the tightening screw and tighten it on the other side, thereby loosening the figure eight. The figure eight should not be fixed after installation, because the stock is attached to it and the holes will need to be aligned.

Next, install the striker and the rear plug with a spring, kit numbers 4 and 3, respectively. When installing the striker, you must first lift the trigger, and then push the striker all the way. To prevent an accidental shot, since the striker has a handle (by which it is cocked), you first need to unscrew it, insert the striker into the pipe and screw the handle back.

Then the spring and rear adjustment plug are inserted. The rear plug is secured with a screw that rests against the cut in the compressor pipe.

Next, we put on the sound moderator. There is a screw on the connecting eight that rests on the sound moderator, thereby fixing it on the barrel. This screw should not be tightened with great force, so as not to damage the coating.

Step 7 – adjusting the stock

The most difficult thing in converting the MP-60 (IZH-60) into the PCP version is adjusting the stock. You need to be patient; technologically there is nothing complicated about this. If you have a Dremel and similar drilling machines, then everything will take about an hour. If you only have a metal file and files, then one evening. The main thing is not to rush.

First we make a cut in the back of the stock (closer to trigger), grinder, jigsaw, Dremel or hacksaw. If you make cuts with a metal file, you first need to drill several holes in order to insert the file. Then, in a horizontal plane, we cut out all the stiffeners up to the back wall (where the cut was made). On the lower workpiece in the photo, the stiffening ribs are cut off.

We make cuts in the vertical part and break out the cut plastic with pliers. We file the remainder along the edges with a file.

Next, we begin to expand the bed, removing excess. It is necessary to constantly try plastic against metal. It is also necessary to cut down the front part of the stock. Also saw off experimentally, trying it on the iron. It is necessary to achieve such a position of the reservoir pipe so that it enters the stock approximately along the red line.

You need to use a set of files or needle files of different grits. Where to remove more - higher grain size, where to polish - with a needle file. When adjusting the front part of the stock, you need to achieve approximately the same position as in the photo. Next, you should start adjusting the rear part, closer to the trigger. And ensure that the holes for attaching the stock to the receiver match.

In the rear part of the stock, it is also necessary to remove excess plastic with a file in order for the fastenings to match. In the photo the plastic in the back has been removed

After adjustment on both sides, the connecting eight (connects the tank and the barrel) will rest with its beard against the stock. It is necessary to use a chisel or a drill (without going in, flat as a milling cutter), or a milling cutter to make a cut for a figure eight, in the place where the standard hole for attaching the stock is located. In the end it should look something like the photo.

It is best to cut the front part of the stock using a wood crown, with a diameter that matches the diameter of the tank. Or attach a template and make a neat rounding by hand, with a metal file or jigsaw.

The safety margin of the plastic of these rifles is very large; this kind of trimming of the “excess” will not weaken the stock. It will perform its function. After adjusting the stock and matching all the mounting holes, we install the butt. PCP assembly is complete.

Making a PCP rifle with your own hands is not difficult at all. If you have problems with accuracy, you can simply cut the plastic so that the mounting holes meet; this will not affect the accuracy of the rifle. An example of assembly in the photo.

Converting Crosman pistols to PCP is much easier. There is no need to adjust the butt. Just disassemble the gun and reassemble it with a set of spare parts from the kit. Moreover, you can easily make a rifle from a pistol, you just need to buy a long barrel and a butt. In addition, on the air gun market there is a large selection of receivers for building a PCP rifle; it is not necessary to buy a whole rifle. The price of the cheapest PCP rifle starts at approximately 16,000 rubles. The price of the conversion kit is about eight thousand. You can use the difference to buy a high-pressure cylinder or pump. At the same time, there may still be enough for a new stock (so as not to have to worry about fitting). There are many stock options (carbine, bullpup and others) for the PCP version of the MP-60. The price is very different, one of the options in the photo, the price is about 1500 rubles (for a stock for MP-60).

After assembly, the kit has optimal settings; when ordering, you can discuss individual settings. Bullet speed, at initial stage(without making changes to the shock group), changes by increasing or decreasing the spring preload force (the adjusting screw is located in the rear plug).

The alteration process itself takes a little time, and those who like to tinker with metal are a pleasure. After all, in essence, you create weapons yourself. It's like going from compound bows to arquebuses.

Step 8 - Setup Phase

After assembling the pneumatic, despite the fact that it has initial settings (depending on the caliber), more precise (optimal for air flow) settings will not be superfluous. This is where registering on the forums from step 2 comes in handy. To measure the speed of a bullet, you will need a chronograph; without this device it will be difficult to adjust the rifle; you can borrow it from fellow pneumatic guns; in every region, without exception, there are fans of air guns. Without velocity measurements, you can only select bullets for your rifle. To do this, it is best to buy small packages of various bullets, not only different manufacturers, but also of different weights and sizes. And shoot them, it is better to shoot them in series of 5-7 shots. Each type will have its own accuracy, and bullets are selected based on this parameter. JSB bullets are considered one of the best for accurate shooting, it’s better to start with them right away. It’s not worth buying cheap bullets - it’s a waste of money, their weight and geometry differ for almost every bullet. Also, if you record the pressure in the tank after each shot, you can identify a plateau in air consumption. A PCP rifle has this property: at a certain pressure value, you can fire a series of shots with minimal air consumption, this is the so-called “plateau”. The airgan community is quite friendly, so you can ask for help fine-tuning in your area. But even without a chronograph and gear adjustment, you can build an accurate and powerful PCP rifle for little money.