Correct location of sockets in the apartment. Sockets and switches in an apartment: arrangement, replacement, transfer, connection diagrams How to install a socket
It doesn’t matter whether you are replacing the old outlet during renovation or installing a new one after moving into the apartment. You can't do without the following things:
- socket - with or without grounding, depending on the wiring;
- mounting box (socket box) compatible with the new socket and suitable for installation to the type of wall;
- voltage indicator (tester) - to determine the phase;
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers - for installation;
- knife - for stripping wires;
- nippers - for trimming;
- alabaster or plaster - for fixing the socket box in a solid wall.
2. Remove the cover of the old outlet
moikolodets.ru If you are not replacing the outlet, but installing a new one, proceed to the next section.
Using a screwdriver with an insulated handle, unscrew the fixing screw located in the center and remove the cover.
Do not forget that the socket contacts are live! Do not touch them with a screwdriver and proceed with extreme caution.
3. Check the wires
Inspect the inside of the outlet to see if it has two or three wires. In old houses there are most often two of them - phase and zero. In addition to the latter, grounding is added.
YouTube channel “Electrician in the house”
By color or using an indicator screwdriver, determine which of the wires is phase and which is zero. To do this, take the screwdriver by the handle so that your thumb rests on the metal circle at its top. Then touch the tip of the screwdriver to the socket contacts one by one. The one on which the indicator lights up will be a phase, the second - zero.
Appearance typical wires for sockets: triple - with grounding, double - without / remotvet.ru When there are three wires, they must be connected strictly in accordance with the markings. The purpose is easy to determine by color:
- earth (PE or Protective Earth) - yellow-green or yellow;
- zero (N or Null) - blue;
- phase (L or Lead) - brown, red or white.
4. Turn off the power
De-energize the room using a switch in the electrical panel on the landing or in the apartment. To do this, the handles of the machines need to be moved down - the indicators on them will change from red to green or from one to zero. Circuit breakers are not always labeled, so be sure to check that the power is actually off.
The flags are cocked and the red indicator is visible - the machine is on / ac220.ru If the apartment has a distribution board with several circuit breakers, turn off only those that protect the outlets. This way you can work under light and comply with safety measures.
5. Remove the old outlet
electry.ru If you are not changing the outlet, but installing a new one, proceed to the next step.
Make sure again. Touch the socket contacts one by one with an indicator screwdriver, touching the metal part on the handle with your thumb - the control lamp should not light up.
YouTube channel “Electrician in the house”
Use a screwdriver to loosen the contact clamps and pull out the conductors. Unscrew the screws of the mounting spacers and remove the socket from the mounting box.
6. Install the installation box
5domov.ru It will not work to install a new socket in an old socket box. Soviet installation boxes have a larger diameter, and modern sockets will simply fall out of them, being pulled out of the wall along with the plug.
Remove the old box or clean it immediately seat in the wall from plaster and dust. Then try on the socket box and make sure that it fits freely without protruding beyond the level of the wall. If necessary, widen the hole.
YouTube channel “Electrician in the house”
If the wall is made of plasterboard, simply thread the wire through the socket. Secure the box by tightening the clamp screws.
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For solid walls, use alabaster or gypsum mixed with water to a thick paste. Wet the wall with water and apply the mixture into the hole. Then thread the wire through the socket and insert the box, aligning it with the wall. Seal the cracks around. Wait a few minutes for the alabaster or plaster to harden.
7. Strip the wires
joinfo.ua If the cable is too long, cut it with wire cutters so that it extends about 5–7 cm beyond the wall. Carefully remove the outer sheath and remove 5–10 mm of insulation from each conductor.
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8. Connect the outlet
rozetkaonline.ru If the outlet is not grounded, the wires can be connected in any order. Most likely, there will be no markings on it, but according to the rules, the phase should be on the right and zero on the left.
In a grounded socket, the wires can also be swapped, but it is advisable to place the phase to the L contact, and the neutral conductor to the N contact.
Grounding must be connected to the contact marked ⏚ or PE! If there is no marking, then to the central contact leading to the characteristic antennae inside the socket.
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Take the new socket and remove it from it. Loosen the clamping screws of the contacts, then insert the conductors into them one by one according to the markings and tighten carefully. Make sure that it is the stripped part of the wire that gets into the clamp, and not the insulation.
9. Secure the mechanism
sibelektrika.ru Check the connection again and tighten the contacts with a screwdriver. Carefully bend the conductor strands so that they fold like an accordion and insert the mechanism into the mounting box.
Level it horizontally so that the socket is not askew. Tighten the side screws, which will open the spacers and secure the mechanism. If there are additional screws on the body of the socket box for more secure fixation, tighten them too.
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10. Install the cover
alkiv.ua Put top cover socket and secure it with a screw. If the design provides for a decorative panel, install it first. Apply power by turning on the switch in the distribution panel on the site or in the apartment. Be careful and don't confuse circuit breakers. the lights didn’t go out and the machines weren’t knocked out, which means you did everything right. But before plugging any appliances into the outlet, it is better to check it again.
To do this, take an indicator screwdriver and touch all the contacts one by one. The indicator lamp should light up only on the right one. The indicator light on the left contact and on the ground antenna should not light up.
If the installation of the socket was done poorly, then over time it will simply begin to fall out of the wall following the plug that is pulled out of it. Before re-attaching the socket, you need to figure out why this happens in the first place, so as not to do the same job several times.
What errors can occur when installing sockets?
To understand how to secure a falling out socket, you must first pay attention to whether it hangs by itself or together with the socket. These are two different malfunctions and each must be eliminated in its own way.
Right installed socket is installed using a certain technology, and if one of the steps is done incorrectly or the wrong materials are used, then it may soon turn out that the work needs to be redone.
Errors may occur at the following stages of installation:
- A hole is drilled in the wall, which should be slightly larger than the outer diameter of the socket so that putty or cement can be pushed between them. There are times when the socket goes right into the wall and it seems that it is firmly lodged there. Then the final installation was carried out, but after a while the entire structure flew out of the wall, because the entire clutch was held at several points.
- The inner surface of the hole is covered with putty and a socket box is inserted into it. If there is not enough putty, it is not laid over the entire contact area, or a poor solution is simply prepared, then the fastening will crumble.
- Installation of the internals of the socket. This structure is held inside by sliding tendrils that are pressed out with bolts. Accordingly, if the bolts are poorly tightened or the fastenings slide along the inner surface of the socket, then the entire socket will soon begin to dangle and fall out.
- Installation of the outer, visible part of the outlet. Most often, this installation stage cannot in any way affect its falling out in the future, but sometimes it happens that the inner part is not installed flush to the wall, but a little deeper. In this case, when tightening the fastening bolts, the inner part will move in the socket box or displace it itself.
Example correct installation socket boxes in this video:
And here we look at how to install sockets in a socket box:
When an internal socket falls out of the wall, the main reason for this is immediately visible - a falling out socket or poor engagement of the fastening lugs. In both cases there are nuances that must be taken into account when troubleshooting.
If the socket box does not fit into the wall
In this case, the repair method is selected depending on what kind of electrical outlet is installed and what the wall is made of.
If the socket box was not “seated” on the mortar, then the size of the hole in the wall is “butt” and it needs to be expanded a little so that there is room to spread the plaster or cement mixture. Next, you need to inspect the socket itself - modern models have slots for threading the cable. They are located over the entire area, and if the putty is pressed through them a little, then this will be an additional fastening. If the socket box is smooth, then you can make notches on its outer side, which the solution will grab onto.
As a last resort, if you don’t have the necessary materials at hand, and it is advisable to repair the socket urgently, then you can simply screw the socket box to the wall with screws. There is only one nuance here - drill holes for the dowels from the corner and place them diagonally so that they do not become loose over time.
In some cases, you can try to fix the falling out socket box with liquid nails, as shown in the following video:
When there is no socket at all
Rarely, but it also happens - the socket dangles, and when you take it apart, it turns out that it simply rests with spacer tendrils against the wall, preferably a concrete one.
There is only one correct solution to the problem - to install a socket box, since the steel tendrils will eventually crumble even the most durable concrete and the socket will fall out.
If there is no other choice but to fix the socket in the wall (there is no socket box and nowhere to buy one), then you can make a homemade mount for the socket. To do this, you will need to make chopsticks: from thick linoleum, sandpaper or a couple of pieces wooden board– preferably not over-dried, so as not to crack when tightening the mounting bolts.
- You need to try on where the spacer antennae rest against the wall and carefully hollow out small recesses there.
- Choppers are cut to fit the size of the resulting pits. If it is linoleum or sandpaper, then it is advisable to fold them in half, with the smooth side inward, so that the rough side touches the wall and the fastening antennae. The tree is simply given the desired shape - unlike classic chopsticks, which are made cylindrical, these need to be made rectangular.
- Next, the choppers are inserted into the fastenings, a socket is connected to them and the bolts are tightened, which pushes the fastening antennae apart.
This method can be effective even for walls not made of the hardest material, such as adobe brick, but if possible it is still recommended to make the correct fastening using socket boxes.
What to do if the socket itself falls out
There may be two main reasons for this - insufficient pressing of the fastening tendrils and the smooth inside of the socket box, along which the fastenings simply slip.
In the first case, the fasteners simply do not reach the walls of the socket box or the pressing force is insufficient to confidently hold the entire structure. This may occur due to wear of the fasteners or mismatch of models, when the socket itself is smaller than the socket box.
mounting antennae (legs) of the socket
If the socket is still fixed in the socket box, but is then pulled out of it along with the plug, then it lacks quite a bit of pressing force. Here it will be enough to simply bend the fastening antennae a little - they are shaped like the letter “G”, but with a slightly bent upward top part. If you bend it a little more, the pressing force will increase. To do this, you need to unscrew the adjusting bolt; this part will fall out of the socket itself and can be adjusted with pliers. Then everything can be installed in reverse order. To ensure a guaranteed result, you can make several notches in the place where the fastening antennae will rest, using a knife or a soldering iron.
When the socket itself, even if well fixed in the wall, is much larger than the socket, then it is necessary either to change it completely or, again, to make choppers and make notches on the inside.
There are also often cases when the surface of the socket at the point of contact with the spacer antennae is simply licked off. An effective solution is to remove the socket box and then install it, but at an angle of 90° from the original position. It’s even easier to rotate the socket itself - double and triple ones are often installed this way - in a horizontal position.
Before deciding what to do if the socket falls out of the socket box, you need to inspect the body of the latter - modern models have mounting bolts with which the socket is simply screwed to their body.
Differences between old and new outlets
The Euro plug (left) has thicker pins, and the socket has tighter contacts
Switches installed in walls are attached using the same principle, but they fall out much less often. The reason is simple - when turning it on and off, the force is always applied in the direction of the wall. In sockets, everything is different - when the plug is inserted into them, the force is directed towards the wall, and when it is removed, it is directed back.
In older outlets, this problem was not so acute, because they were designed for devices with much lower power consumption. This automatically meant that there were no strict requirements for the pressing force of the contacts - plugs were inserted and removed from sockets with much less effort - from that time on, many users began the habit of pulling the plug by the cord. Removing the plug in this way is prohibited now and was not allowed before, but with the old sockets there was enough safety margin, so often such requirements were simply not paid attention to.
Modern sockets use spring-loaded contacts, which are pressed very tightly against the live parts of the plugs. Even a socket installed according to all the rules will gradually become loose, so it is recommended in any case to hold it with your hand when removing the plug.
Any work, including installation of electrical wiring, is usually done following a certain sequence. Thanks to this, you will save both your time and resources.
And the question of redoing any group of wiring in a room or the entire apartment as a whole will no longer arise even in the distant future. Let's look at the order of work in as much detail as possible, following which you will ultimately get a high-quality result.
Electrician before or after plastering
First of all, remember that all electrical installation is done properly after plastering. Therefore, the finishers work first, then the electricians come in.
In extreme situations, you have to do the opposite, but then you will encounter a lot of problems that could have been avoided in the first place. 
Electrical markings
Any quality work starts with precise markings. Most often, professionals use laser levels and axle builders for this. 
With their help, you can quickly and accurately mark the centers for all the sockets in the room. It would seem that a couple of millimeters will not play a decisive role here. What's wrong with one block at the beginning of the room being slightly higher than the other at the end.
However, very often in apartments you come across wallpaper with horizontal or vertical stripes. And these stripes will clearly show when the socket box is not installed level. 
The same can be said about the seams on the tiles.
Therefore, place all socket boxes in the room in the same plane. The recommended distances are as follows:
- for sockets – 30cm from the floor
- for light switches – 60-90cm
- everything above the countertop, in the bathroom or kitchen – 110cm
After all the centers of the socket boxes have been marked, then proceed to marking the mounting points for the lamps, both on the walls and on the ceiling.
At the same time, you can mark out places for hanging plasterboard structures. Since in the future, when all the cables and corrugations are on the ceiling, marking the fasteners for drywall will not be very convenient. 
But it’s worth bothering with all this if you will also be installing the structures.
After all this, proceed to making marks for the corrugation fasteners. The most important thing is that they do not interfere with each other. 
Usually, competent marking, even with the use of modern measuring instruments, takes a full day of work. Prepare yourself in advance for exactly this period. If you are in a hurry, it will definitely backfire on you during further installation.
Drilling out socket boxes
Next begins the noisiest and dustiest part of electrical installation work - drilling and chipping. 
In order to minimize the amount of dust, construction vacuum cleaners are used. 
In addition, each tool in this case must have an outlet with a pipe or a dust removal device. 
Small hammer drill, medium hammer, large hammer, wall chaser, all of these tools must have dust removal, otherwise your vacuum cleaner will be of no use. 
There are also special attachments that fit on a regular grinder and all work is carried out with almost complete dust removal. You can purchase both expensive models from the famous companies Hilti or DeWalt, and absolutely affordable ones, for example Mechanic AirDuster. 
First, the centers of the socket boxes are drilled out using a d-6mm drill. Then, based on the material of the walls, a tool is selected for arranging niches for socket boxes.
It could be:
- wall chaser with a cut 60mm deep
Wall chipping
After making niches for sockets and switches, gating for cable lines begins. You need to do it in exactly this order. 
Otherwise, if you first groove and then try to make niches, your center drill will lead into the groove.
The easiest way to cut grooves is with a laser level. Sometimes several lasers are used for this work simultaneously. 
For example, if you have two grooves going down to the socket block - one power, the other low-current, then it will be faster to set up two laser levels and, without descending from the stepladder, cut both parallel straight lines from top to bottom at once. 
When all the niches and grooves are ready, the premises are cleaned and all the socket boxes are installed. 
Next comes the adjustment of the clips for the corrugations on the ceiling. This is easiest and fastest to do using . 
If it is not there, then use a regular hammer drill to drill holes d-6mm and the clips are placed on the dowel and nails. 
Is it possible to lay cable routes without corrugation and how this can all end, read in a separate article. 
You only need to use PVC corrugation gray. Unlike other multi-colored species, it does not support combustion. Its flammability class is A1.
In addition to being non-flammable, the corrugation protects the cable from mechanical damage. You can step on it, hit it lightly with a hammer, or catch it with the sharp edge of the profile. 
Of course, you will damage the shell itself, but nothing will happen to the cable. Well, among other things, installation in a corrugated sleeve looks more aesthetically pleasing.
The corrugated cable can be laid with equal success both on the wall and on the floor and ceiling. True, in all cases there are a number of significant differences. 
Number of groups by room
Where and how many cable routes should be laid? As for living spaces (living room, bedroom), previously there were only two lines in them. 
Today, three have become practically the norm:
- sockets
- lighting
- plus air conditioning or other powerful equipment
You can run a separate wire for the TV socket in the children's room. This is done so that the child can be safely in this room, even without your supervision.
If your child is busy watching cartoons, then the remaining sockets in the nursery are turned off at the switchboard. At the same time, you will be absolutely calm that a curious child will not climb anywhere. 
It turns out that a minimum of two cables are installed into the living space:
- lighting
- sockets
On average three:
- lighting
- air conditioner
For the nursery - four.
As for the kitchen, the situation is a little different. Electricity consumption in the kitchen is the highest in the entire apartment. 
Among the powerful and critical devices that require a separate cable, the following stand out:
- microwave
- fridge
Separate lines are also connected from the panel to each block of sockets above the work surface. That is, if you have 2-3 blocks of socket boxes on your work surface, then each of these blocks should have a separate group. 
Why is this being done? At the moment, kitchen electrical appliances are very energy-intensive, and so that when using a bread machine with a kettle and toaster at the same time, the machine does not get knocked out and the contacts do not get hot, so many separate lines are initially laid.
Thanks to this, you can safely use all the necessary electrical appliances and not be afraid that something will burn or melt somewhere. This is especially true in holidays when cooking in the kitchen is in full swing. 
It turns out that the minimum requirement is to install at least 10 cable lines in the kitchen.
The cable cross-section should be selected based on the following recommendations:
- for low-power devices and lighting - copper cable cross section 3*1.5mm2
- for sockets and air conditioning - 3*2.5mm2
- oven – 3*4mm2
- electric stove, hob, instantaneous water heater– 3*6mm2
Cable brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM. 
If we sum up all the above routes, it turns out that on two, three-room apartment On average, about 30 power lines are started.
These are the realities of today. 
As for low current, two twisted pairs of UTP or FTP cable are installed at each access point where there will be Internet or TV. 
Plus, don't forget about a shielded TV cable. 
It can also be connected directly or provided with a separate television socket. Thanks to it, your video equipment will not be tied to any one place.
Connection in junction boxes
When all the routes have been laid, it’s time to connect the wires in the junction boxes. 
Since according to the PUE there must be access to distribution boxes, it is not recommended to install them on the ceiling. It's also not pretty modern renovation The boxes look flush with the walls. 
That's why the best option– the use of special recessed socket boxes in which all switching is carried out. Most electricians use regular socket boxes with a depth of 45mm.
Some installers choose deeper options – 60mm. 
However, there are even wider examples, for example from Kaiser. They are called Kaiser 1068-02 electronics mounting box. 
Often, in order to leave a sufficient supply of wire, even in a regular recessed socket box there is not enough space. And this box perfectly accommodates all the wires, plus connecting terminals.
All switching in them is done in the upper part. Then the whole thing is puttied and an ordinary socket box remains. 
For subsequent access to the connections, you just need to remove the electrical installation equipment (socket, switch), remove the plug, pull out the supply of wire and carry out any manipulations with the wires.
If you do not have a single block, but a double or triple one, then here too you can use in-depth options up to 60mm. 
Internal jumpers in such blocks can be dismantled. Due to this, the supply of wire that remains in such a box sometimes reaches 30 cm.
Switching wires inside can be done in several ways:
- soldering
- pre-twist welding
- crimping
- Wago clamp
It is not recommended to use daisy chaining in outlet lines. Also, all outlet lines are looped. That is, an additional wire is pulled from the first socket to the very last one.
One of important aspects Every repair involves installing an outlet. At first glance, it may seem that nothing could be simpler than this. Actually this is not true. Installing an outlet in a room: a responsible, complex and time-consuming process.
However, due to negligence, you can run into big trouble. After all, we are talking about the power supply at home. Incorrect connection of contacts can lead to a short circuit and ultimately a fire.
Installation rules and nuances
It would seem that installing an outlet in a room is a fairly simple task that every man can handle. However, this task also has many different nuances and rules. By adhering to which you will protect yourself from troubles. The method of installing the socket is always the same. It is performed in several stages:
- Preparation and laying of cable.
- Niche cutout for socket.
- Installation of the socket box housing.
- Connecting contacts.
- Installing a decorative cover
It is recommended to begin installation by selecting the desired laying scheme. In a renovation situation, this will make it possible to add another outlet at any second. This is very convenient, because then you don’t have to rack your brain about where to provide additional power.
It is worth mentioning the location of the sockets. You must decide on this initially. First, you need to calculate the number of power sources needed. Then decide on the height and location of them.
It is recommended to write down all thoughts on paper, in the form of a diagram, or mark them directly on the wall using a special construction pencil. If you are doing this for the first time, carefully follow the steps step by step instructions socket installations.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Start off installation work necessary for your safety. Make sure there is no power to your home or apartment. If this is not done, it can be turned off in a common circuit breaker for the whole house. It is also worth considering protecting your hands and fingers with gloves. Of course, working in them while installing the outlet itself is quite inconvenient. But at the time of laying the cable and cutting out the hole for the “socket box”, this is a necessity. After all, you can get injured in the process.
Marking walls and laying cables
Installing a socket with your own hands begins with laying the cable. To do this, you need to use a construction pencil to mark the boundaries of the recess where the wire will lie.
This can not only save materials, but also make your work much more convenient. To make the workflow itself as simple as possible, you need to take care of a set of tools. So, we will need:
- Hammer (can be replaced with a hammer and chisel)
- Wire cutters
- Putty knife
- Cement mortar
- Insulating tape
- Multimeter
After making the grooves, you need to start choosing the cable itself. In consumer mode (that is, 220V), the current value ranges from 12-20 amperes. This means that the cable cross-section must withstand this load with a margin to avoid a short circuit. For a socket, a cable with a cross-section of 2-2.5 is sufficient.
Also, the main rule for installing an outlet is a separate cable connection to the meter. This will protect you from short circuits. Indeed, during overload (more than 4 kW), the current value quickly increases. With a separate cable connection, the protection can instantly disconnect certain parts from the meter's power supply, thereby preventing a fire.
The process of connecting the cable to the meter is elementary. By removing the insulation, we expose the contacts. We connect them to special terminals on the meter. This way you can connect 8 separate power wires.
After connecting, you need to lay the cable itself. Mix the cement solution, it should be a little thick. Then we lay the cable in the groove and cover the recess with a solution using a spatula. It is recommended to wrap the end of the cable, without insulation, with electrical tape or tape. This will protect the contacts from dirt during rough work.
Installation of a socket box
Installing the socket into the glass begins with cutting out the recess. The depth depends on the type of socket box. If the outlet is a pass-through outlet, that is, other cables pass through it, then the depth should not exceed 7-8 cm.
In the case where the socket box is the final one, the recess should be no more than 5 cm. It is important to take into account during installation that the wires must lie freely in the housing. After all, tightly bent cables can cause damage. As a result, the entire structure will have to be disassembled and rebuilt.
Socket boxes are divided into two types:
- For drywall
- For hard stone
In the first version, the design of the socket box consists of a plastic body and metal latches on the sides. When secured to the drywall, the clamp fits into the groove, tightly holding the socket body. For reliability, the structure is secured with two dowels.
The second option is provided for stone or brick walls. In this case, the body is made of polycarbonate with two lugs on the sides. The socket body is fixed into the recess, which was previously hollowed out with a hammer drill.
Fixation occurs using two dowels. The holes for them must be drilled with a smaller diameter. This is necessary so that the dowel is firmly fixed in the wall, holding the structure tightly.
Installing the socket base
Wires without insulation are supplied to the terminals. And they are secured to them using special clamping bolts. The third core, that is, the grounding, is fixed to the side on bracket contacts. The veins themselves in the cable differ in color: yellow is earth, red and blue are power.
All sockets can be divided into several types:
- Single
- Double
- Multichannel
Connecting a binary or multi-channel socket is no different from a single one. The wire is also connected to the terminals using clamps. Only in the version with several cells this is done on one side. The contacts in them run in parallel, powering all sections at once.
Finally, you need to install a decorative trim. It is attached with two bolts on the sides. If you wish, you can choose the one that fits perfectly into the design of the room.
Photo instructions for installing sockets
Wall-mounted sockets are more popular than overhead sockets. Their undeniable advantage is their compactness and the absence of surfaces for collecting dust. They are reliable in terms of resistance to mechanical stress. Their most important advantage is the hidden wiring, which eliminates the creation of obstacles when finishing the interior. To get all these benefits, you must first understand - how to install a socket in the wall. You can do this yourself, even if you have to install a socket box and lay wires. Connecting sockets is much easier than installing lights.
Connecting the socket in the installation box
The technical parameters of the outlet must fully comply with the requirements of the connected consumer. You need to look at the power of the devices that will be powered by it. The maximum permissible current in Amperes is indicated on the housing of the sockets and in their instructions. The power of the connected electrical equipment is measured in kW. These values can be compared using the table.
Table 1. Correlation of socket power to consumer parameters and required wiring cross-section.
| Outlet current A | Consumer power kW | Wire cross-section mm2 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminum | Copper | ||
| 6 | 1.3 | 2.5 | 1 |
| 10 | 2.2 | 2.5 | 1.5 |
| 16 | 3.5 | 2.5 | 1.5 |
| 32 | 7 | 10 | 6 |
All built-in sockets that may be needed for installation in an apartment or private house can be divided into 3 groups:
- ordinary;
- waterproof;
- power.
Conventional sockets are used to power the vast majority of electrical appliances. You can connect to them Charger mobile phone, computer, router, hair dryer, refrigerator, microwave oven, etc.
Regular socket
Waterproof sockets are used for installation in wet areas, usually in bathrooms. They can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the presence of a lid covering the socket for connecting the plug. It provides splash protection. Such an outlet will be required if the installation is carried out in close proximity to a sink, shower or bathtub. For this purpose, devices with protection class IP44 and higher. This will reduce the likelihood of defeat electric shock even in case of flooding, which is accompanied by water leaks along the walls. If the installation is carried out in a large bathroom of a private house far from water sources, then you can get by with a regular outlet.
Waterproof socket in the bathroom
Prices for waterproof sockets
Waterproof socket
Power sockets used in houses and apartments usually have the same plug standard, but have a higher power rating. Their indicator for this parameter is 32A and above. They are used to connect devices with high electricity consumption. First of all, this is an electric stove, electric oven, air conditioner, fireplace or boiler. Sometimes power outlets may have a triple socket. Their choice depends solely on the plug with which the electrical appliance is equipped.
Power socket
Prices for power sockets
Power socket
Precautionary measures
Since there is a possibility of electric shock when performing work, it is necessary to turn off the power to the apartment or house during electrical installation. This can be done using switches in the electrical panel. If the room has old-type wiring, you can turn off the power supply by unscrewing the plugs on the meter. Work on installing a socket box, when contact with live wires is excluded, is carried out without turning off the power, to allow the use of auxiliary power tools.
Attention! Before proceeding directly with electrical installation, you should make sure that the wires are actually de-energized. The check is carried out with an indicator screwdriver or tester.
Checking for voltage
Prices for voltage measuring instruments
Voltmeter
Socket height standards
Initially, you need to decide where exactly and at what height the outlet will be installed. There are so-called European and Soviet standards. According to the first, installation is carried out at a height of 30 cm from the floor. The Soviet standard provides level 90 cm.
Eurostandard
You don't always need to be tied to the requirements, as there are cases where this option is not suitable. First of all, the need to install a socket at a different height arises in the bedroom, in particular when installed above a bedside table. It is placed in such a way that you can reach it while lying down, for example, to charge a mobile phone. It is convenient to have an outlet at a height of 65-70 cm.
Installation option above the bedside table
The location of outlets in the kitchen deserves special attention. Downward installation is excluded since they will be covered by furniture. They are mounted in any order, usually trying to be placed immediately above the countertop or under the bottom of the upper cabinets. IN the latter case they are invisible at first sight, yet always accessible.
Placement above the kitchen countertop
Selecting a Receptacle-Compatible Mounting Box
Built-in sockets are fixed in a special installation box, the so-called socket box. It is a thin-walled cylinder that is walled into the wall. In the future, the socket is attached to it, and not to loose masonry material or concrete, which would be unreliable.
Advice! It is better to buy the installation box at the same time as the socket, which will ensure their full compatibility.
Sockets from individual manufacturers provide various ways fastening to the socket box. First of all, this concerns the location of the screws. They can be located along a vertical or horizontal axis. Some devices have 4 mounts at once. Diameter of installation boxes is 65-67 mm. Depth 45 mm. They can be made of polyamide, polypropylene and other materials.
Regular socket box
Attention should be paid to the selection of the installation box for the socket block. The fact is that almost every manufacturer produces its products under different standards width. That is, the distance between the sockets, including the overhead panels, differs so much that it will not always be possible to install it in an installation box of another brand.
Attention! If fastening is required in ordinary walls, classic cylindrical socket boxes are used. For installation in plasterboard, special installation boxes are produced with special screws and ears for attaching to the sheet.
Socket box for drywall
Installation of a socket box
After purchasing materials, you can outline the installation location. The technology used for installation differs depending on the type of wall. Working with concrete, aerated concrete and brick is almost identical, but working with drywall is different. Differences are also observed in the set of tools that are required.
Installing a socket box in concrete, aerated concrete or brick
Working with such wall materials requires specialized tools. You will need to prepare:
- perforator;
- core drill 68 mm;
- chisel or pick for a hammer drill.
Core drill
Prices for socket drills (core drill)
Core drill
First you need to make a hole in the wall to install the socket box using a special core drill. It is installed on a drill or hammer drill. Crowns come in different price segments and differ in cutting edge material. They come in diamond and carbide. Drills also differ in operating mode. Some are used only with a drill, while others are impact, so they are suitable for drilling with chiselling included.
Recommendation! When purchasing a core drill, you need to consider not only its diameter, but also the type of shank. For doors it should be cylindrical, and for a hammer drill sds-plus or another. Otherwise, the incompatible crown will not fit the existing instrument.
If you need to drill reinforced concrete, you will need to use a more expensive diamond-coated bit on the segments, since cheap equipment breaks. You also need to set the optimal number of revolutions recommended in the instructions for the drill.
There is a concrete drill in the center of the cylindrical crown. It is used for alignment. The protruding drill is placed in the center of the future socket box and deepened into the wall until the ring begins to be drilled with a crown. After this, you need to stop drilling and remove the alignment. This will prevent the protruding part of the tool from making a through hole. The centering drill is removed by knocking it out with a wedge or unscrewing a special clamping bolt.
Drilling into the wall
If you need to install a block of sockets, then you need to look at their instructions, as well as the parameters of the socket boxes and determine the center distance. Usually it is 71 mm. To make everything smooth, ideally, immediately after removing the crown to remove the centering drill, you need to make a marking from the small hole along a horizontal line with pitch 71 mm. The resulting points will be used in the future to center subsequent drillings.
Marking for a block
After drilling, a circular hole will remain. All that remains is to knock out its central part. This can be done conveniently using a hammer drill with a lance. You can get by with an ordinary hand chisel and hammer. You need to insert the tool into a narrow strip of a larger drilled circle and strike. As a result, the central part will fall out. When working with aerated concrete or brick, this is not difficult. It will be more difficult to knock out concrete if it is reinforced with steel reinforcement.
Installation sequence
Having a hole ready, you can cut a groove in the wall to the ceiling, where the junction box is located, in order to make a branch of the power cable. To compensate for the error, the laid cable is taken longer by 30-40 cm. In the future, the excess can be cut off. When moving on to laying the cable and connecting to the junction box, you will need to turn off the power to the room.
Junction box
After preparing the groove and the hole itself for the socket box, you need to insert the installation box into it and check the depth so that nothing sticks out. Next, you should prepare a thick mortar. It is most convenient to use alabaster and gypsum plaster.
To insert the power wire into the box, you need to break out the window using pliers or cut it off with a knife. In such places, manufacturers make the plastic thinner to allow mechanical extrusion. Next, you need to place a little solution deep into the hole, and then insert the box with the wire inserted into it.
Gluing socket boxes
The socket box should be leveled using a level. If it has only two vertical or horizontal fasteners, then their orientation must be selected depending on the characteristics of the purchased outlet. If there are 4 fasteners, this does not matter.
Socket box with two fastenings
The side cavity between the box and the wall is also filled with solution. If alabaster was used, then in 3-4 hours the installation box will sit securely. You should wait until the solution is completely dry and stops evaporating. Under no circumstances should foam be used to secure the socket boxes, as it is a flammable material.
Advice! If you need to install one or more sockets, then it is not advisable to buy an expensive crown. Holes can be cut with a grinder. In this case, the amount of dust from the work increases. Although accuracy suffers, everything will then be covered with plaster. To cut with a grinder you will need a diamond wheel.
Work as an angle grinder
Prices for popular models of wall chasers
Wall chaser
Video - Installing socket boxes in a concrete/brick/aerated concrete wall
Installation of socket boxes in drywall
To work with drywall, you will need a special type of mounting box with a special claw, which will allow you to press it to the sheet like a vice or clamp. To carry out installation, you need to drill a hole. This can be done with a special core drill for drywall. You can cut a circle with a mounting knife. Since the wires are hidden behind the drywall, no gating is required. The embedded cable should be pulled out into the resulting hole and inserted into the broken window of the socket box. You need to insert the mounting box into the wall and tighten the screws, retracting the clamping tab.
Fastening the socket box in plasterboard
Connecting the socket
Direct connection of the socket when installing in drywall is carried out immediately. If the mounting box is secured with mortar, you will have to wait 2-3 days. The sequence of further actions is as follows:
- shortening the protruding cable;
- stripping the ends of conductive wires;
- screwing the wires to the socket terminals;
- installation of an outlet;
- fixing the decorative frame.
The tail of the wire protruding from the socket is too long, so it will need to be trimmed. It is necessary to leave such a length that when folded it can be hidden in the remaining space of the box. The ends of the wires are cleared of insulation. In the absence of a special tool, this can be done with a mounting knife, being careful not to damage the conductor. The instructions for the socket recommend cleaning on clay 10-15 mm.
Wire stripping degree
To properly connect the wires to the socket terminals, you need to separate the grounding conductor, if any. Phase and neutral have single-color insulation, and grounding has two-color insulation. The supply wires are connected to the side terminals. Grounding goes in the center.
Electrical installation
The next step is to carefully fold the wires to place the socket in the installation box. Next, using a screwdriver, you need to screw it to the socket box using screws. Fixing with spacer pads is also possible. They are located on the sides of the socket. The more you twist them, the wider they move apart and provide rigidity of fixation.
Attaching to a socket box
After securing the socket, you need to snap its frame. If it is not there, then screw on the cover panel. It is held in place by one screw, centered between the plug holes.
Video - DIY socket installation
Subtleties of connecting the socket block
When connecting a double, triple or block of sockets, a parallel connection will be required. To do this, small pieces of wire are cut in size 15 cm each. Their ends are stripped of insulation. Such segments are used to connect socket terminals. On sale you can find special blocks immediately connected to each other.
Block connection
What to do with aluminum wiring
In older houses, all wiring is made of aluminum. Often such wires break off, so when you try to insert a new socket into an existing socket in the wall, you cannot connect. In this case, you will need to extend the wire. The use of ordinary twisting is unacceptable. To get out of the situation, you can use special glued pads. This will make it possible to expand copper wires, which eliminates oxidation between two different metals. By adding a couple of wires 10-15 cm each, you can connect the socket.
Wire extension
Installation of power sockets for powerful consumers
If there is a need to power a powerful oven, oven or other equipment, then you need not only to choose a power outlet, but also a large cross-section cable. Its throughput must correspond to the consumption parameter of the electrical appliance. The wire for such equipment should not have twists in its path. It is not connected to the junction boxes, but is led directly to the electrical panel. This is a mandatory fire safety rule.
