Rules for installing a potbelly stove in a change house. How is a potbelly stove installed? Chimney maintenance

Despite all the popularity of natural gas in the modern world, there are still places where its use is still unavailable. In this situation, a person will be helped by a stove in a wooden house, which is heated with wood fuel or coal. You can purchase this fuel at any time of the year.

Classic stove design

In appearance, the potbelly stove resembles an ordinary rectangle on legs. It is equipped with a door and a compartment for fuel, and an ash drawer for combustion waste. In addition, any potbelly stove is equipped with a branch pipe where an exhaust pipe with a length of 5 meters or more is installed. The length of the pipe directly affects the thrust and power of the device. The furnace body is made of steel or cast iron. We also recommend reading about the chimney for a potbelly stove in the garage on our portal.

Potbelly stoves are classified into two types:

  • Metal devices.
  • Brick buildings.

Brick models fit perfectly into a small country house and can heat several rooms at once. The stove heats the rooms evenly and allows you to retain heat for a long time. The only drawback of a brick potbelly stove is the long heating process. But the brick adds more functionality to the device; for example, during masonry, you can build a place for cooking. Craftsmen can arrange a recess for the oven.

Models of cast iron stoves are compact and easy to install, because they can be placed in any suitable place. The main thing is to fold the chimney correctly so that it can be easily moved thanks to the corrugated pipes.

Difficult climatic conditions are a factor that everyone living in the vast Russian territory has to take into account. With the onset of cold weather, houses, apartments, and industrial buildings are connected to centralized heating systems that supply heat and create comfortable conditions for us throughout the heating season.

The process of building a brick potbelly stove

Installing a potbelly stove in a wooden house in the country requires the preparation of the following materials and tools:

  • Ceramic brick.
  • Furnace fittings.
  • Plaster containing lime and clay.
  • Clay solution.

Read also how to install a potbelly stove in an apartment for heating on our website.

Construction stages

The first row of the furnace is laid out very precisely, because it affects the entire subsequent construction. Inexperienced beginners can lay 25 bricks per day, and then check the result the next day.

The first row of the oven is laid out very accurately using a level and corners

  • To ensure the straightness of the structure, metal corners and wooden slats are located in the corners.
  • When laying the second and subsequent rows, an opening should be left for the future door.

When laying subsequent rows, you need to leave an opening for the future door

  • Starting from the 6th row, a refractory mixture is added to the masonry, replacing clay with it.
  • At the end of the work, a pipe is attached to the top of the structure - smoke will come out of the potbelly stove through it.

A pipe is attached to the top of the structure - smoke will come out of the stove through it.

Furnaces

Currently, there is a huge variety of types of ovens. The main advantage of a change house, from a heating point of view, is its limited area. With the correct design of the cabin (insulated block container), it is possible to organize full heating using low-power stoves.

In addition to power, the choice of stove is made based on criteria such as:

  • Size;
  • Fuel type;
  • Chimney placement;
  • Price;
  • Operating costs (maintenance costs).

According to these criteria, the best option is a conventional wood-burning stove, such as a “potbelly stove”. They cost little, and fuel, if a successful combination of circumstances occurs, will be completely free. Operating costs are also minimal.

Installation

When choosing a change house, give preference to standardized options. In this case, it will be much easier for you to install the stove.

So, installation begins with determining the location of the furnace. It is advisable that this be a corner of the change house, since the stove should not interfere with the movement of people. However, the distance from the stove to the wall must be at least 300 mm. In addition, you should not place it near sleeping places, if any.

The stove must be installed on a base. Its function can be performed by a steel sheet on which bricks are laid. Thanks to this, the bottom of the cabin will not be exposed to excessive thermal effects, which will eliminate the risk of burnout.

The best option for a chimney is a vertical one, exiting through the ceiling of the cabin. However, you can also do it horizontally, if the design of the furnace implies this. In both cases, a hole will need to be cut for the chimney. It is recommended to protect the cut edges from external factors by edging them with thin strips of stainless steel.

If the chimney has connections, they must be sealed with special heat-resistant sealants.

To ensure that your stove is installed correctly, consider purchasing a container unit with the stove already installed. Excellent cabins of this type are offered by the Kraus company. Factory installation guarantees compliance with all technical standards and eliminates the risk of damaging your home during the process of removing the chimney.

It is advisable to fix metal sheets with a reflective surface on the walls closest to the stove - this will speed up the heating of the room.

You should not leave a burning stove unattended, especially when firing it “at night”: either warm up the room in advance, or organize a watch.

Systematically check the condition of the chimney: it must be sealed and free of blockages.

Naturally, the change house must provide for the possibility of quick evacuation.

Heating stoves
Properties of soapmagnesite

Equipment characteristics

Recently, thanks to the variety of designs, potbelly stoves can complement the overall style of the interior of the room. Thus, this is not only a heating device, but also a kind of decoration for the room. The stove runs on wood no longer than 25 cm or other solid fuel, it all depends on the preferences of the owners and their financial capabilities.

The main functions of a potbelly stove installed in a country house:

  • Heating.
  • Possibility of cooking.
  • Interior decoration.

Increasingly, a stylish potbelly stove is becoming a serious competitor for fireplaces, because, in addition to other positive qualities, the device is compact. It is easy to connect and, if necessary, move it to a new location or place it outside to fry meat in the fresh air.

A modern potbelly stove not only heats the room, but also decorates the room

If you need to frequently transport the stove from one place to another, then it is better to give preference to collapsible models. As a rule, they have an easily removable top cover, which often serves as a hob. This potbelly stove also features detachable legs and a multi-section chimney. The stove does not take up much free space, is a mobile piece of furniture and is easy to transport. Using a potbelly stove completely eliminates the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning, because it leaves the room through a pipe. It turns out that the safety of the device and the power of operation depend on the installation of the pipe.

Collapsible model of a potbelly stove

Potbelly stove for long-burning cottages - three simple options

    Piston stove. People call it the “Bubafonya” stove - most likely, this is the name of its creator. This is a top-burning stove, that is, wood is burned not from bottom to top, but, on the contrary, from top to bottom. Imagine a gas cylinder with the top cut off - firewood is loaded onto its bottom, which is pressed down from above by a piston. The piston has a hole for air flow - as combustion occurs, the piston moves down. The chimney in such a stove is located above the piston, and the wood gas released when wood burns is also burned above the piston. In general, the efficiency is very high, despite some inconveniences - it will not be possible to load additional firewood into such a stove during operation. It must burn out completely, and only after that it is recharged.

  1. Rocket stove potbelly stove. This is a very complicated stove, so I won’t even talk about its design. I will only say one thing - one load of such a stove burns out within an hour. This is despite the fact that its twisted hopper has a size of 120 by 120 mm - in fact, it works on wood chips.
  2. Do-it-yourself potbelly stove being worked on. A very simple, but unsafe potbelly stove - if water accidentally gets into it, it can result in a big boom. In addition, problems with fuel may arise - whatever one may say, used oil does not just lie around, and such potbelly stoves have quite a big appetite. The interesting thing about this potbelly stove is that the oil is burned directly in the fuel tank. In addition, when oil burns, a specific, not very pleasant smell is released (firewood smells more pleasant).

This is how things stand with the solution to the question of how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands? As you can see, there is plenty to choose from, despite the fact that this choice is not always easy to make. If this is your first potbelly stove, then, naturally, it is better to start with something simple and move up. Ask which potbelly stove is best? In my opinion, the most interesting and effective is the rocket stove - it is the one that produces the maximum amount of heat with a minimum fuel load.

Potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder, vertical design

By and large, such a potbelly stove is not much different from the option described above - the difference lies only in the location of the cylinder, which has its own advantages.

  1. First of all, a potbelly stove is more compact and takes up less space in the room.
  2. This design allows you to install convective pipes of greater length, which will have a better effect on the process of heat distribution in the house. In addition, with this design of the potbelly stove, the convective pipes will not need to be bent.

A vertical potbelly stove also has its drawbacks - first of all, it is a short combustion chamber, limited by the diameter of the pipe used for its manufacture (or the diameter of the cylinder). At a minimum, this is a limitation on the length of firewood - they may have to be cut additionally. It is much more difficult to attach a burner to such a potbelly stove. And the third, most important point is the direct flow of the furnace. In fact, the flame in it is thrown directly into the chimney. This issue can be resolved, but it complicates the design. As a rule, the combustion chamber is attached to the side of such furnaces. In all other respects, it is the same design and, accordingly, all the same components.

Firebox of the new furnace

In the morning after installing the stove, it was decided to check its capacity. The entire firebox was not filled with firewood, only small ¼ was added. The logs were made of birch and aspen. After the wood was in the firebox and was set on fire, smoke began to emerge - probably the paint was burning through. During the entire burning period, work was carried out at maximum capacity; later I wanted to ventilate the room. The entire incomplete stack burned out in 30 minutes.

What we have:

After there were a few red coals left in the stove, it was decided to add another portion of firewood. The floor under the stove became very hot, you can touch it, but you cannot hold it with your hand. The wall behind the stove, opposite the stove, is hot, but you can hold your hand for a couple of seconds.

Sandwich too - you can hold it for a few seconds. Then, for an hour and a half, the firebox continued in the long-burning mode.

After the first fire, the temperature in the room was +22 degrees, after the second - +25.

After the first fire, it was possible to say that the stove worked well and I really liked it, the power adjustments were simple, but at first it was not clear how the glass blowing worked.

The glass remained clean after operation of the firebox. After finishing the fire, two hours later the stove was quite warm. I won’t argue about the heat capacity comparable to brick stoves; one must demand from each heating device what it can give, and receive from it what it is designed for. We can conclude that Chinese-made cast iron stoves are very functional in operation and give impressive results.

How to install a potbelly stove in the country

When installing a potbelly stove, remember that the metal body heats up quite quickly. Stainless steel ovens heat up less and cool down faster. Potbelly stoves, which are made of cast iron, will retain heat much longer, so they must be installed in such a way that they are visible during operation and for some time after the flame has died out.

If you install potbelly stoves on metal legs, you must remember that these auxiliary structures will also heat up. The heating temperature will be lower than that of the case, but still not too low. To install potbelly stoves in your dacha, you will need to install them on a fireproof base. In this case you can use:

Scheme of a potbelly stove stove.

  • tin products;
  • concrete structures;
  • ceramic tile products;
  • brickwork.

Fire hazardous grounds are:

  • those made of plastic of any kind;
  • plank or parquet floors;
  • laminate bases;
  • linoleum bases;
  • It is not allowed to use carpet or other soft coverings.

If the house has wooden walls or panels, the stove must be installed at a distance of 1 m from them. Chimney pipes in the room are installed from 1 section, without the use of connections. If for some reason this cannot be done, you need to make a tight connection, and one section must necessarily fit into the other. If the pipe passes through the wall, you will need to make a thermal barrier from ceramics or brick. In this case, concrete can also be used, but it will crumble when temperature changes.

The fuel storage container will need to be placed next to the door to prevent sparks from entering it.

Diagram of a potbelly stove with dimensions.

Quite often, potbelly stoves in the country are used not only to provide heating. There are a large number of designs that combine several functions. Such designs include a heating stove with a cast iron stove. They can be used for cooking and at the same time for heating a country house. A household cast iron stove with 1 burner can easily replace a gas or electric stove in the country. If there is a need to feed several people at one time, you should make or purchase a stove with a continuous cooking surface or with 2-4 burners.

Ovens that have a water tank are also popular. Their design is similar to a samovar. A water container is mounted around a wood-burning cast iron stove.

How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands - potbelly stove device

It couldn’t be simpler - this is how you can describe a potbelly stove, the history of which goes back several centuries. To exaggerate, in order to build a primitive potbelly stove yourself, you will need a metal box and a pipe. We weld everything together, load the firewood and enjoy the warmth. Yes, it's not safe. Yes, it is inconvenient and, most importantly, not very effective - that is why a modern potbelly stove has a number of additions.

  1. As in any other solid fuel stove, grates are installed in it, under which an ash pan is made.
  2. Like all other stoves, a potbelly stove has doors for loading fuel and removing combustion products.
  3. A chimney, without which the stove turns into an ordinary fire pit.
  4. Bulkheads are also built inside, the task of which is to retain the maximum amount of heat inside the room.

You can see what homemade potbelly stoves look like in this short video.

In addition, many modern potbelly stoves for dachas are equipped with convection pipes (they are needed for more efficient heating of the air in the room) and various devices for cooking. Burners on which you can warm tea and, if necessary, fry potatoes with lard and onions.

Chimney installation diagram for a potbelly stove.

It is necessary to first familiarize yourself with some information about the installation of such a structure in order to know what nuances you will have to face.

You can install a potbelly stove if you have basic construction skills and learning abilities.

The main problem for heating equipment that runs on wood is installing a chimney system. A potbelly stove has simplified requirements when compared with a fireplace. In this case, it is not necessary to make a vertical chimney.

For fire safety purposes, a potbelly stove requires an insulation layer. To do this, you need to make a brick platform or use a stainless steel sheet. You can also use asbestos-cement sheet, which is galvanized. This design can withstand temperatures up to +400°C.

It is allowed to use metal legs to install the stove. This design can save building materials and your own effort, which can be spent on installing the stove.

Scheme of a potbelly stove with a heat exchanger.

It is necessary to retreat 80 cm from the wall or add a thermal insulation layer to the wall. It is also recommended to install a protective coating around the perimeter of the stove, which can prevent fire if sparks hit the floor.

The chimney can be brought out at an angle from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the tight connection of the sections of the chimney structure. In most cases, a sandwich structure is used, which has a high level of safety due to the fact that the chimney pipe is partially insulated in the structure. It is not allowed to use thin stainless steel for the chimney structure, because it will quickly burn out. The pipe must be led outside through a drilled hole in the wall or roof. At the end, the resulting cracks must be covered with clay.

In order to be able to regulate the draft, it is necessary to purchase a damper, which is installed in the chimney structure and can block it completely or partially, if necessary. The gate will be needed a few mm smaller than the pipe diameter. You need to make 2 holes in the pipe. Next, you should thread a rod into them, to which the gate is attached.

The walls next to the stove must be protected with a steel screen or lined with ceramic tiles. It is preferable to use the latter option.

At the end, cosmetic work is carried out, which consists of filling up the cracks and improving the area on which it is planned to place the potbelly stove.

How is a chimney installed?

To install a chimney, the following materials are needed:

  • elbow 1200x100 mm;
  • 2 elbows 1200x160 mm;
  • 3 butt elbows;
  • tee;
  • stub;
  • fungus.

Thermal insulating material and a passage glass may be useful for installing a chimney. To seal the seams, sealant or asbestos cord is used.

The chimney installation process is as follows:

  1. It is necessary to fix 1 piece of pipe at the chimney opening.
  2. Pipe elbows will need to be extended to the ceiling line.
  3. A hole with a diameter of 170 mm or more must be made in the ceiling. In places where the chimney pipe must pass through the ceilings, you will need to remove the insulating layer. This is necessary in order to exclude the possibility of ignition of this layer.
  4. It is necessary to insert a passage glass into the hole that was made, and then pass the chimney pipe through it.
  5. Next, the pipe is connected to the external chimney structure.
  6. A layer of bitumen is applied to the outer part of the pipe. All this is wrapped in thermal insulation material.

Installing a potbelly stove is quite simple if you know all the nuances and have all the tools.

Self-installation of a potbelly stove

When choosing a stove option for a country house, it is important to carefully calculate the required power for heating the selected area. A potbelly stove with an area of ​​1 sq.m can heat a room of 35 sq.m.

When choosing a stove for a country house, it is important to carefully calculate the required power for heating the selected area

An important factor in the operation of the device is the blowing of heat out of the room and the influx of cold air into it. For example, cracks in windows or floors that create a draft will noticeably disrupt the operation of the potbelly stove. An excellent solution for a two-story country house is a two-tier potbelly stove with a common chimney. Read more about installing a homemade potbelly stove in a country house on our website.

Video: installation of a potbelly stove and chimney

If you want to reduce the cost of installing and purchasing a stove, you can try to make it yourself according to the instructions.

Self-assembly of a potbelly stove

Fire safety standards for installation and operation of the stove

In order to protect your home if you have a stove, you should follow some fire safety rules:

  • Use only dry firewood or logs as fuel.
  • To ignite the device, open the firebox damper slightly and put the required amount of fuel there, and then set it on fire.
  • When the fuel is sufficiently hot, the power of the stove can be adjusted by opening and closing the ash drawer.
  • To clean the potbelly stove from ash, you need to completely cool the body, remove the ash drawer and throw away its contents.

To clean the potbelly stove from ash, you need to cool the body, remove the ash drawer and throw away the garbage from it.

When you first ignite, you may smell burning paint, but this effect will not happen again later.
Any flammable items must be kept at least 80 cm away from the stove.
It is prohibited to place more than 3 kg of fuel into the firebox at one time.

It is important to always close the firebox door.
It is prohibited to use the stove if a malfunction is detected in the functioning of the exhaust pipe.
It is forbidden to leave the potbelly stove unattended for a long time and in the presence of small children.
When the oven is operating, you should not touch its body, as it heats up to a very high temperature.
It is prohibited to place flammable materials near the stove.
The stove can only be installed on a non-combustible base.

You can install a potbelly stove in a wooden house only on a non-combustible base

Potbelly stove for a summer residence, horizontal version

This is perhaps the easiest option for making it yourself. Like all stoves of this type, at home they are created either from a large diameter pipe or from a propane cylinder, which is much better. You can make such a potbelly stove as follows.

  1. First you need to open the cylinder - this is a dangerous matter. First you need to unscrew or beat off the tap with a sledgehammer - first, the contents of the cylinder are vented to the maximum, and the condensate is drained. Then the container is filled with water and only then can you cut.
  2. First, one of its rounded parts is cut off (where the tap was). After it is cut off, the water can be drained and you can work with the cylinder without fear.
  3. We attach legs to the balloon and install it horizontally.
  4. On the blind side (top) we cut a round hole with a diameter of 100 mm and weld a pipe of the same diameter to it - this is a chimney. The length of the pipe is about a meter - everything else is built up later.
  5. Now inside the balloon. At the very top you need to attach a strip of thick metal - this is a flame stopper that will protect the body of the potbelly stove from burning out. If the plate burns out, it is easy to replace. By the way, it should not block the chimney.
  6. Grate bars. The easiest way to weld them is from thick reinforcement - a kind of grille that is inserted into the lower part of the cylinder and secured there by any available means. It would be better, of course, if it were a removable product.
  7. And the last point is the door, or rather two doors: the ash pan and the firebox must open and close separately from each other. The ash pan, as in many furnaces (or rather, its door) additionally works with an air flow, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the rate of fuel combustion.

This design can be supplemented with convectors - pipes through which air from the room will pass and be heated. They are simply welded vertically to the side of the potbelly stove - ideally, the pipes should be bent so that they follow the contours of the stove. In addition, you can additionally weld a plate on top of the cylinder, which will serve as a kind of burner - alternatively, you can cut another hole in the top of the cylinder itself and weld the plate on top of it. Such a burner will work much more efficiently.

Conclusion

How potbelly stoves are installed in houses depends on the type of house, the materials from which it is built, the number of storeys, and the dimensions of the free space

It is important to decide on the location, prepare the floor and walls, observing fire safety rules

Installing a potbelly stove is easy. The most labor-intensive work is preparing, assembling and fastening the pipe. By following all the rules, you can create a useful and beautiful heating structure.

There is an Evergreen 147 stove, a cast iron potbelly stove of small dimensions (width 43 cm, depth 40 cm, height with legs 58 cm), the power according to the passport is 7 kW, the size of the firewood used is up to 30 cm. The country of manufacture of the stove is China. In appearance, the casting of the structure is very similar to the Invicta oven, door, glass with seals, there are air distribution adjustments.

The chimney was purchased from the BaltVent brand, 150/250 mm, the inner pipe is acid-resistant stainless steel, 1 mm thick, steel 316, insulation is 50 mm, the outer pipe is stainless steel, 0.5 mm thick, steel 304, the first 1.5 meters from the stove are a black single-layer steel chimney 2 meters.

The photographs immediately show what exactly happened - the result of the installation.

A potbelly stove is a homemade or factory-made stove designed for heating residential and non-residential premises. The stove has a simple design and is omnivorous - it works on almost any type of solid fuel. Having purchased or assembled this heating unit, it is necessary to ensure its correct installation. This review will tell you how to install a potbelly stove in a garage and how to properly connect it to the chimney.

Pros and cons of potbelly stoves

Heating garages using potbelly stoves is quite justified. Electric heating leads to high energy costs, given the large amount of heat loss. The same applies to heating with diesel fuel and liquefied gas. All that remains is to heat the garage space using a potbelly stove. This stove, simple in design, can operate on wood, coal, fuel briquettes and other types of fuel. . It is omnivorous and does not require permission for installation and operation.

Let's consider the positive qualities of potbelly stoves:

A potbelly stove has a very reasonable efficiency indicator - it varies between 70-80%, which depends on its design and the type of fuel used.

  • Suitable for heating garages and any other technical premises;
  • They produce a large amount of heat, which depends on the type of fuel used - using firewood with a high calorific value, you will achieve good heat;
  • Quick warming up - we remove the remaining ash from the previous kindling, load fresh firewood, wait 15-20 minutes. After this time, the garage will become noticeably warmer. In 30-40 minutes the temperature will reach a comfortable limit (do not raise it above +23-24 degrees);
  • Simple installation - you need to mount it on a non-combustible base and connect the chimney;
  • Possibility of modernization - the potbelly stove can be easily converted to use liquid and gas burners. There are also certain methods for increasing efficiency - we will touch on these points in the review.

Flaws:

  • Not the most presentable appearance, but in a garage or other technical room this does not matter in the slightest;
  • An incorrectly assembled potbelly stove may turn out to be too voracious and ineffective - 40-50% of the heat will fly out;
  • You need to install a high chimney - proper draft is ensured by installing a chimney up to 4-5 meters in height.

In addition, potbelly stoves require regular cleaning. It is one thing to remove accumulated coals and ash, and another thing to remove resin from a pipe. The problem with resins is solved by installing a chimney from a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm (and preferably 120 mm).

Assembling a potbelly stove

Installing a potbelly stove begins with its purchase or self-assembly. When choosing a purchase option, pay attention to the Soviet-style cast iron model.

They began to be produced in 1955 and are still stored in army warehouses. We won’t go into where they came from for sale. But let's say that these are excellent stoves. Judge for yourself:

A cast iron potbelly stove has a very impressive appearance and, due to its thickness, can last for decades.

  • Thermal power is about 4-5 kW, which is enough to heat a garage of up to 40 square meters. m;
  • Reliable cast iron - its thickness is 10 mm;
  • Soviet assembly - no comments here, back then they knew how to make quality things;
  • Omnivorous - works on coal, wood, sawdust;
  • Suitable for installing a cauldron instead of a top lid.

The cost of the unit is between 4-5 thousand rubles. The thing is really cool, but it’s hellishly heavy, its weight is about 60 kg.

You can also assemble a potbelly stove for your garage yourself. For example, according to this scheme:

The assembly diagram of one of the simplest and yet quite effective and reliable potbelly stoves.

It is assembled from sheet steel. The recommended thickness is 4-5 mm. This is enough to prevent the steel from burning out in the next few years. The statement is most relevant when using coal, which burns at a higher temperature. For assembly, you need to cut the metal on a machine or using a powerful grinder. Legs may or may not be made - in this case, the potbelly stove is installed on a stone base.

To assemble the stove, you will need additional materials - a metal pipe, doors and fittings for assembling the grate. The pipe is necessary to create a chimney pipe - the chimney is connected to it. You need two doors - one large, the other small. The large one is welded opposite the combustion chamber (furnace), the small one is welded between the bottom and the grate. If you are making legs for floor installation, take strong metal corners or fittings with a thickness of at least 15 mm.

The diameter of the chimney according to this scheme is 100 mm - this is quite enough (for this drawing). The potbelly stove is assembled using a welding machine. Special attention is paid to the welds so that they can withstand heat and do not allow smoke into the garage itself. When assembling the housing, do not forget to install the grate and smoke circuits.

Smoke circulations improve heat transfer and are the basis for pyrolysis combustion - in this case, a tube for supplying secondary air is welded into the rear wall above the level of the first revolution.

Installing a potbelly stove in its original location

We have assembled the potbelly stove, now let's start installing it. The foundation is prepared for this. The stove cannot be installed on earthen floors - it will gradually push through them. It is necessary to pour a concrete screed on which the stove itself will stand. If you have ready-made concrete floors, there will be one less problem in the installation procedure. In the case of installing a potbelly stove on wooden floors, it is necessary to lay a sheet of metal 1-2 mm thick on them. The same sheet should be placed in front of the firebox - this will prevent fire if coals accidentally fall out.

To install the potbelly stove in the garage as correctly as possible, use the following recommendation - step back 50-60 cm from the nearest walls. This way you will avoid overheating them and reduce heat losses. The recommendation is valid for brick, concrete and wooden walls. In the case of wood, it becomes mandatory (the distance to the wooden wall should be 1 meter; it is recommended that they be lined with brick or covered with asbestos). You can also line the walls with metal to reflect heat. The distance to vehicles is at least 1.5 meters (preferably 2 meters).

Heating a garage with a potbelly stove will be more efficient if it is located not at the garage door, but against the opposite wall. We pay special attention to the vent - make sure that there is an opening in the garage for outside air to enter. Otherwise, the oxygen level in the room will be too low.

Do not forget to move canisters with machine oil, gasoline and other flammable liquids away from the place where the potbelly stove is installed. We also move away everything that can burn - rags, plastic, wood, etc.

Construction of a chimney for a potbelly stove

Making a pipe for a potbelly stove in the garage is not difficult. We have already left the pipe for installing the chimney; all that remains is to punch a hole in the wall or ceiling. We remind you that the height of the pipe should be 4-5 meters. A lower chimney for a potbelly stove can lead to loss of draft or air blowing in the opposite direction.

The pipe for a potbelly stove in the garage can be straight or curved in an L-shape - it all depends on the characteristics of the garage space. For example, if there are some rooms above the garage, the pipe is led out of the wall, then bends and goes up. It is desirable that it be higher than the roof of the entire building. The upper part of the chimney is closed with a tin or metal cone to prevent water and snow from getting inside.

Installing a chimney in a window is quite possible, but unsafe. A wooden window frame can catch fire if it comes into contact with an overheated pipe. Therefore, it must be insulated - for example, with mineral wool running between the metal and the frame. When venting the chimney through the roof, it is necessary to isolate it from the roofing and seal all cracks.

First launch of the potbelly stove

The slide valve allows you to control the draft in the stove, thereby affecting fuel consumption and temperature.

The installation is complete - you can perform the first launch. To do this, place a small amount of wood chips and paper inside and light a fire. Next, we stack a small amount of firewood and wait for the stove to warm up. The firewood must be dry (no more than 15-20% moisture), otherwise the soot from it will quickly pollute the entire stove and chimney. We make sure that the smoke goes into the chimney properly, add more firewood, close the firebox door and open the ash pan door (it works like an ash pan).

After 20-30 minutes the temperature will rise to a comfortable level. To save fuel, close the vent and the flame will go out. This achieves temperature regulation. You can also retrofit the chimney with a damper.

Modernization of a potbelly stove

Installing a potbelly stove in a garage will provide warmth and comfort. But the efficiency of this furnace can be increased by 10-15%. Here is a list of technical solutions:

  • Installing a brick jacket on the back and sides - we have already talked about this. The thickness is half a brick;
  • Installing a chimney with a long horizontal section - it will retain some of the heat escaping into the chimney. We put the stove in one corner, extend the chimney to the other, and then take it upstairs;
  • We cover the walls with steel sheets - they will reflect infrared radiation back into the room;
  • Installing a steel jacket around the stove - we surround the potbelly stove with steel sheets located at a distance of 40-50 mm from its walls. This solution forms a convector that forces air to circulate throughout the garage.

This is quite enough to “squeeze” the maximum thermal energy out of the stove. When installing a furnace to heat your garage, do not forget to take care of purchasing a fire extinguisher.

Video

Lovers of country holidays and avid gardeners who spend half of the spring and summer in nature, and live there until late autumn, cannot do without heating.

Potbelly stove in the country

As a rule, summer cottages do not have a gas supply, and not everyone can afford to build a brick stove or fireplace - this is not a cheap pleasure. But you can always find a way out; a metal potbelly stove with solid fuel is perfect for heating a summer house and banal cooking and hot tea!

Many people will immediately imagine a crudely welded steel structure, but this is not the case at all. There are a huge number of models on the modern market that will satisfy any demand both in price and design. If you need a banal function of heating your dacha, a potbelly stove for 10,000 rubles will cope with this task. Of course it won't look as good, but it will work perfectly!

Previously, a potbelly stove was a primitive design consisting of a metal box on legs, with a door and a chimney. Such stoves have low efficiency, which means it was quite difficult to heat even one room.

primitive stove-stove

Today, such a stove can also be purchased in a store, its price is much lower than for more complex options from leading manufacturers. If you are a little more agile and know how to handle welding, you can weld a potbelly stove with your own hands without any problems. Everything is simple here, the way it looks is how it should be cooked, nothing complicated!

To make such a potbelly stove work effectively, its creators themselves advise covering the metal box with bricks. Moreover, the masonry should be located at a distance of 3-5 cm from the walls of the furnace - an air gap will appear in this gap, which will also help retain heat for a long time.

Modern, more complex types of potbelly stoves, accordingly, have a higher price.

This is an improved design of metal stoves, and some of them are capable of heating a room with a volume of 100 cubic meters. m, and can retain heat in the room for quite a long time. Five innovations that have appeared in the design help increase efficiency.

  • The firebox of a modern potbelly stove now has hermetically sealed glass doors framed with metal, which prevent smoke from entering the room. For this purpose, heat-resistant glass is used.
  • The new valves installed on the air intake openings of the ash pan and the firebox doors help to increase the burning time of the fuel. With their help, you can regulate the activity of air supply, on which the intensity of combustion and heat release depends.
  • Heat-resistant lining, which is used to decorate the inner walls of the furnace, protects the metal from overheating - it will retain heat for a long time! The cladding is made from fireclay and other materials.
  • The furnace vault of a modern metal furnace allows for the installation of re-burning, in which the residual flue gases are almost completely burned out. Afterburning increases the efficiency of the furnace and reduces the temperature of the smoke entering the chimney.
  • Dividing the chimney into two parts - exhaust and heat exchange, also allows you to retain heat for a longer time.

The heat exchanger is a knee chimney or “smoke bag”, which is located inside the potbelly stove.

A metal pipe that goes outside or is connected to a chimney already installed in the house has a valve, which also helps retain heat. This system is called the output part.

Advantages of a potbelly stove

A modern stove-stove, thanks to new developments and improvements, can be an additional or main source of heat. It has its advantages over brick kilns - these include the following:

  • It is easy to install a potbelly stove even in an already built house; there is no need to build a foundation for it, since the structure is not very heavy. It is enough to simply lay fire-resistant material under it.

What to consider when choosing a stove?

What should you pay special attention to when choosing a metal stove? You need to know this so that the purchase is not in vain, and the stove itself works efficiently, and your money is not wasted.

  • When buying a stove, you need to pay attention to its power - it will depend on the area of ​​​​the room, which there must be heated. You should not buy a powerful stove for a small room, as it will “dry the air”, burning oxygen out of it. The power can be found in the operating instructions supplied with the product. When making this purchase, you must know the exact dimensions of the room.
  • It is very important to consider the material from which the house is built and what kind of frames are installed on the windows. If the house erected made of cold material (concrete, brick or stone), then the power of the furnace must be greater than for use her in wooden or adobe buildings.
  • It is equally important what kind of fuel you plan to use to fire the furnace - the choice of model will directly depend on this. Remember, cast iron can withstand high temperatures and lasts longer than steel.
  • The best option for a stove is one with a hob. This option will help you out in case of a power outage or simply replace your gas or electric stove.
  • Product safety is very important - professionally made stoves comply everyone safety rules, so it is better to buy potbelly stoves in specialized stores and not from private individuals.
  • And, of course, one of the main roles is played by the design of the stove, which will be discussed in detail below.

Stove design

Ordinary old-style potbelly stoves are not distinguished by a variety of design solutions, and its owner himself will have to figure out not only how to improve its functionality, but also how to improve its appearance. By purchasing a slightly more expensive model of a potbelly stove, you already get a designer-ready product that you won’t need to bother with.

Steel and cast iron stoves are decorated with artistic casting and covered with colored glaze; special overlays and heat-resistant paints are used for decoration.

These stoves not only have a beautiful appearance, but also come in a variety of shapes. Therefore, those who dream of having a fireplace in their dacha or home can easily replace it with a stove model of a potbelly stove, repeating its classic shape.

How to integrate a potbelly stove into a modern interior

To understand what exactly you want to get from the design of a stove in your dacha, you need to consider different models in the interior. These photos clearly show what they are intended for.

The compact potbelly stove is not will take large area in the country kitchen and will get its ideal place in this interior. Its black color looks great in contrast with white walls. Due to the fact that the smoke is discharged into a chimney that is invisible to everyone, the color of the kitchen will not be affected by the settling of smoke. The hermetically sealed door also contributes to this. The stove has two burners, which allows you to simultaneously heat the kettle and cook food. In cool weather, the oven will warm a small kitchen area well.

potbelly stove-fireplace

This version of the potbelly stove can be called multifunctional, as it can act as a fireplace and create coziness. In cold weather, it will warm the room, and the hob, if necessary, will allow you to warm the kettle or brew aromatic coffee. This fireplace will fit well into the design of any country house and will illuminate the room in the event of a power outage. It is compact and will hardly reduce the usable area, but will bring comfort and warmth to your home.

It’s hard to imagine this room without such a potbelly stove - it is an integral part of this lovely interior, bringing comfort to it. Looking at the situation, you can immediately imagine how pleasant it will be, wrapped in a blanket, sitting by the window in rainy weather, when the firewood peacefully crackles in the stove nearby and the kettle boils. Here you can clearly see that fire-resistant material is laid under the stove structure, which will protect the floors from excessive heating.

An expensive potbelly stove becomes an interior decoration

This potbelly stove is installed in the hallway of the dacha and also fits organically into the interior. But in this case, it is installed as an additional heating device, which creates a warm air gap between the entrance and the rest of the rooms. Such a stove helps preserve the heat that has already accumulated in the house. Near the heated potbelly stove you can dry your shoes and things, and thanks to the hob you can cook food or boil water.

You can, of course, choose something simpler - the choice is currently very wide. Look, for example, at this “baby”, which will not be difficult to transport from place to place:

If you are tired of freezing at night in spring, autumn or in rainy weather at your summer cottage, then you have the ideal solution - install a potbelly stove. Even in the smallest house there is always a place for it, as it is compact and aesthetically pleasing. Watching the swaying flames in a cozy atmosphere, you will be convinced more than once that your decision was correct.

Despite all the popularity of natural gas in the modern world, there are still places where its use is still unavailable. In this situation, a person will be helped by a stove in a wooden house, which is heated with wood fuel or coal. You can purchase this fuel at any time of the year.

In appearance, the potbelly stove resembles an ordinary rectangle on legs. It is equipped with a door and a compartment for fuel, and an ash drawer for combustion waste. In addition, any potbelly stove is equipped with a branch pipe where an exhaust pipe with a length of 5 meters or more is installed. The length of the pipe directly affects the thrust and power of the device. The furnace body is made of steel or cast iron. We recommend that you also read about it on our portal.

Potbelly stoves are classified into two types:

  • Metal devices.
  • Brick buildings.

Brick models fit perfectly into a small country house and can heat several rooms at once. The stove heats the rooms evenly and allows you to retain heat for a long time. The only drawback of a brick potbelly stove is the long heating process. But the brick adds more functionality to the device; for example, during masonry, you can build a place for cooking. Craftsmen can arrange a recess for the oven.

Models of cast iron stoves are compact and easy to install, because they can be placed in any suitable place. The main thing is to fold the chimney correctly so that it can be easily moved thanks to the corrugated pipes.

  • When you first ignite, you may smell burning paint, but this effect will not happen again later.
  • Any flammable items must be kept at least 80 cm away from the stove.
  • It is prohibited to place more than 3 kg of fuel into the firebox at one time. It is important to always close the firebox door.
  • It is prohibited to use the stove if a malfunction is detected in the functioning of the exhaust pipe.
  • It is forbidden to leave the potbelly stove unattended for a long time and in the presence of small children.
  • When the oven is operating, you should not touch its body, as it heats up to a very high temperature.
  • It is prohibited to place flammable materials near the stove.
  • The stove can only be installed on a non-combustible base.

Self-installation of a potbelly stove

When choosing a stove option for a country house, it is important to carefully calculate the required power for heating the selected area. A potbelly stove with an area of ​​1 sq.m can heat a room of 35 sq.m.

An important factor in the operation of the device is the blowing of heat out of the room and the influx of cold air into it. For example, cracks in windows or floors that create a draft will noticeably disrupt the operation of the potbelly stove. An excellent solution for a two-story country house is a two-tier potbelly stove with a common chimney. Read more about it on our website.

Video: installation of a potbelly stove and chimney

If you want to reduce the cost of installing and purchasing a stove, you can try to make it yourself according to the instructions.

Advice! The simplest model has a round shape with a diameter of about 45 cm and a height of 80 cm. The wall thickness is approximately 10 mm, and the main feature is an unregulated draft.

The process of building a brick potbelly stove

Installing a potbelly stove in a wooden house in the country requires the preparation of the following materials and tools:

  • Ceramic brick.
  • Furnace fittings.
  • Plaster containing lime and clay.
  • Clay solution.

Read also for heating on our website.

Construction stages

  • The first row of the furnace is laid out very precisely, because it affects the entire subsequent construction. Inexperienced beginners can lay 25 bricks per day, and then check the result the next day.

  • To ensure the straightness of the structure, metal corners and wooden slats are located in the corners.
  • When laying the second and subsequent rows, an opening should be left for the future door.

  • Starting from the 6th row, a refractory mixture is added to the masonry, replacing clay with it.
  • At the end of the work, a pipe is attached to the top of the structure - through it, smoke will come out of the potbelly stove.

A pipe is attached to the top of the structure—smoke will come out of the stove through it.

Advice! Just like a regular fireplace, it is best to place a potbelly stove on a pre-prepared fireproof foundation. If it is located close to a wall made of easily flammable material, the place that is located near the wall near the stove is plastered with a fire-resistant mixture and upholstered with iron.

The process of manufacturing and attaching a chimney

A potbelly stove is considered a portable structure, so it is not recommended to make a brick chimney for it. This leaves two types of chimney to choose from - asbestos-cement or metal. It has been proven that metal performs better in work and is much lighter in weight. As for the asbestos-cement pipe, it can only be placed on top of the stove and its maximum heating temperature is only 300 degrees Celsius.

Note! The design of the chimney for the future furnace must be collapsible and compact. And the pipe must pass to the street along the shortest possible path and consist of at least two elements connected to each other. So, if one element wears out, it can be easily replaced without disassembling the entire device.

Parts and materials for chimney assembly

  • metal pipes - required for the construction of the base of the chimney, the most suitable diameter is 16 cm;
  • the tee is also 16 cm in diameter with a plug on one side - it will be needed in the process of connecting the outlet pipe;
  • several elbows for forming joints - they will help to turn and lay the chimney in the required direction. The size of one of them should be 10 by 120 cm, the rest 16 by 120 cm;

  • “mushroom” with a diameter of 20 cm, which serves as a nozzle to protect the pipe;

  • sealant for processing seams;
  • materials for thermal insulation;
  • bitumen resin.

Any stove needs a high-quality chimney. The main task of this design is to remove hazardous combustion products from the room. But a proper smoke exhaust also ensures a good supply of oxygen to the furnace firebox, and all safety standards must be observed.

In the absence of metal pipes, the main pipe can be made from sheet iron by bending it with hammers and tongs, as well as using a welding machine. If such metal is too thin, then you can cut it with metal scissors; if not, then you will need a grinder and metal discs for it.

Chimney assembly

  • Installation must begin by determining the location for installing the pipe, where the internal element of the furnace will be connected to the external one.
  • The first chimney element is attached to the potbelly stove, the second one is attached to it, and so on, depending on their number. At the outlet of the potbelly stove, it is better to replace thin metal with a cast iron elbow up to 50 cm in height. It will make it possible to increase the operating efficiency of the chimney and extend its service life, preventing the melting of thin-walled metal.

  • Next, the chimney pipe is extended until it reaches the junction with the next structural element.
  • A hole is made in the ceiling; its dimensions should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 10 cm, since it is first covered with heat-insulating material.

  • If flammable materials are found in the cracks, they must be removed, because after the pipe heats up, the risk of nearby objects catching fire will also increase if they are not protected.
  • A pass-through glass is first installed into the hole created in the ceiling, and the pipe itself passes through it.

  • Next, the pipe that leaves the room is connected to the pipe that is the outer part of the chimney. The latter should end 10 cm above the roof. The hole for the exit of the outer pipe is designed according to the principle of the hole in the ceiling.
  • At the end of the work, the outer pipe is strengthened with a sheet of iron or any other metal. Bricks can also be used for this purpose, the main thing is that the material is non-flammable.

  • The outer side of the pipe is carefully coated with bitumen resin and wrapped in thermal insulation - for example, mineral wool, and a saucer is mounted at the joint under the wool to prevent the ignition of the wool from hot ash.
  • At the end of the outer pipe, a “mushroom” is mounted - in other words, a cover that helps protect the pipe from foreign objects clogging the chimney or from rainwater.

A “mushroom” is mounted at the end of the outer pipe - a cover to protect the pipe from foreign objects and from rainwater

Note! After completing the assembly, all joints and seams are fixed using sealant - this will prevent smoke from entering the room. The sealant must be special - resistant to high temperatures.

We previously wrote about and advised you to bookmark the article.

After the treated seams have dried, the stove is ready for use, but first its operation must be properly checked by flooding the potbelly stove. If smoke does not penetrate through the cracks, then the assembly was carried out correctly and efficiently, taking into account the rules and safety standards.

A potbelly stove for a summer residence is relatively inexpensive compared to other heating devices. In addition, when using it, you will only need to buy fuel and not pay for electricity. When studying the instructions, it is not difficult to figure out how to install a potbelly stove in a wooden house, thereby significantly saving on the work of the master. This type of stove fits perfectly into a country house setting and helps save money.

First of all, it must be safe. When using it, the following rules must be observed:

  • the floor and walls around the stove must be made of fireproof material: tiles, iron, plaster, bricks. It is permissible to cover the walls with special plasterboard;
  • should not be located near the stove flammable objects or substances;
  • it is permissible to build a stove only from proven quality materials;
  • the garage must be equipped with a system ventilation.

Wood-burning bake for a DIY garage means following the rules. That's why ventilation a garage equipped with a potbelly stove is extremely important for two reasons:

  • if there is a lack of oxygen, the fire in the stove will go out or burn weakly;
  • Excess carbon dioxide indoors can cause poisoning or death.

To remove combustion products from the garage, it is necessary to arrange chimney, but if problems arise in the pipe, ventilation will prevent the garage from catching fire or poisoning the people in it.

The necessary access to fresh air can be ensured by leaving a small (up to 5 cm) gap under the gate or by making several ventilation holes under.

Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove for the garage:

Selecting a location

Best to install potbelly stove in the corner of the wall opposite the gate. The heat emanating from the far corner will warm the room and remain in the garage even when the door is opened. The distance from the wall to the stove can be approx. 0.5 m. if the walls are made of brick, iron or any non-combustible material. With wooden walls, it is better to move the stove at 1 m., and cover the walls with bricks, tiles or cover them with a steel apron.

IMPORTANT: The minimum distance from a homemade stove for heating a garage to a car and any objects capable of burning is 2-2.5 m. Reducing this distance increases the likelihood of fire and poses a threat to the paintwork of the car.

Place underneath the oven iron sheet about 1 cm thick or cement the surface within a radius of 1-1.5 m. Thanks to this, coals that accidentally fall out of the oven or flying sparks will cool down without causing a fire in the garage.

Increase safety and increase heat dissipation potbelly stoves Brick walls lined on the sides and end of the stove will help. The slowly cooling brick will maintain the temperature in the garage for several hours after the furnace has finished firing.

Cover yourself brick You can only use a square or rectangular oven. Incorrectly covering a cylindrical potbelly stove with stone can lead to a reduction in heat transfer to the room and rapid burning of the metal walls of the stove. Increase heat transfer of the furnace made from part of a pipe, you can weld metal ribs to its sides.

Dimensions Potbelly stoves for the garage are:

  • height 50 cm (body 30 cm and legs 20 cm);
  • width 30 cm;
  • length 50 cm.

During production potbelly stoves from a metal pipe, the diameter of the latter must be at least 30 cm. For any oven shape, the minimum metal thickness is 5 mm.

Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove in the garage - drawings:

Fuel reserve

Firewood– the most popular fuel for furnaces installed in the garage. They allow you to quickly warm up the room and cost inexpensive(or prepared independently, i.e. obtained for free).

For potbelly stoves Well-dried (preferably aged for more than a year) firewood, cut 25 cm long and stored in a ventilated place protected from precipitation, is suitable. Ideal for storing firewood barn, but you can also put them under a canopy. When choosing fuel It is worth considering that different wood produces different amounts of heat:

  • pine, spruce and larch burn out quickly and provide little heat;
  • oak, birch, acacia, pear, apple, cherry and maple have greater density, burn slower and give more heat.

In addition, when burning coniferous trees, a lot of soot, which settles on the chimney and creates a fire hazard. Burning birch is no less dangerous - the released tar mixes with soot and settles in the pipes and on the walls of the firebox.

The most dangerous fire method– burning coniferous or birch wood in smoldering mode. Resins and tar settle on the pipes and impregnate the brick; it is impossible to clean them off mechanically.

It is advisable to stock up on firewood a year or two before use. Delivery can be ordered online or through advertisements in local newspapers. But you can stock up on firewood for free:

  • in forest areas, obtain permission to cut down trees in a certain area (you will need to collect documents and spend time visiting authorities);
  • collect dry trees and large branches fallen by the wind in groves, forest belts and courtyards;
  • contact the nearest sawmill, where wood waste is burned or allowed to be collected by those who wish (a small remuneration may be required for workers);
  • find an area where furniture factories are cutting down forests - branches, tops and root parts of trees remain in place, which can be cut down and taken away.

Manufacturing

How to do potbelly stove to the garage? Before starting work, you must prepare drawing potbelly stoves for the garage, materials and tools for manufacturing:

  • sheet iron or a piece of pipe for the body with a thickness of at least 5 mm;
  • chimney pipe with a diameter of 12 cm and a thickness of 3 mm;
  • rods for attaching a pipe to a wall with a diameter of 12 mm;
  • iron 3 mm thick. for making a box for collecting ash;
  • welder;
  • electrodes with a diameter of 4 mm;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding mask, gaiters and overalls;
  • separator;
  • mites;
  • hammer;
  • drill.

The most effective potbelly stove for the garage with your own hands - drawings:

First stage - preparation of parts. Having decided on the drawing of a wood-burning garage stove, size and shape, the details are outlined with chalk on metal and cut out. When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the walls and the circle.

Assembling a potbelly stove– the second stage of manufacturing – is not necessarily carried out at the installation site. Using tack welding, the three side walls and the bottom of the stove are connected, the perpendicularity of the connection is checked, and the front wall is applied to check the dimensions. Subsequent welding of the seams of the joints of the parts is carried out using a T-weld.

Installed and welded into the finished body partition between the firebox and the ash pit, in which holes for ash are made in advance. Holes in the partition are made at a distance of 5 cm from the oven wall and 1.5 cm from the next hole. Height installing a partition - at least 10 cm from the bottom of the furnace - ash will need to be removed from the resulting opening.

A round hole is cut in the back of the oven for chimney. In the front wall there are rectangular ones for the blower and firebox. The side edges of the holes should be at a distance of 5 cm from the walls, the lower edge of the blower should coincide with the bottom of the oven.

The cut out rectangles are welded onto the canopies, bringing them as close as possible to the top of the opening - over time, the doors will sag due to temperature. Both doors must be equipped with simple bolts, which move well even when hot.

Finished front wall welded to the body. All seams are carefully checked and errors are corrected. The legs, the length of which is at least 12 cm, are welded to the body, and then the top cover.

The last stage of furnace manufacturing is installation and assembly. chimney. The stove is installed in a pre-prepared place that complies with fire safety standards. A pipe is welded to the hole in the rear wall.

How to do it right chimney for a potbelly stove in the garage? The simplest chimney option - a straight pipe passing through the roof - is not justified from the point of view of heat conservation. It is advisable to create a 90-degree turn on the pipe (it is optimal if the turn is created through three bends, 30 degrees each) and lead it through the wall.

The top of the pipe is attached to the wall using rods, the other side of which is mounted into the wall, recessed by no less than 10 cm.

During installation chimney For a potbelly stove in a garage, it is important to ensure the tightness of all connections, otherwise smoke and soot will enter the room.

In addition to brick walls, ready-made potbelly stove can be equipped on top with a stove for heating food or a removable water tank to increase heat transfer.

Installation potbelly stoves in the garage will allow you to save on purchasing a ready-made stove and quickly heat the garage in the cold season.

Useful video

What a homemade potbelly stove for a garage looks like.