Sequence of finishing work in the house. Interior finishing work

Those who have already built a house know that the simplest thing is to build a box. Further stages of work require much more effort, since it is necessary to coordinate the actions of a large number of performers.

Usually, all work on the construction of a house box is carried out by one J team, with which, as a rule, it is quite easy to negotiate. Experienced workers who know their job well know what needs to be done and in what order. Range of used building materials and equipment at this stage is not very wide, so ensuring construction is most often not a problem, especially since the work lasts long enough for the developer to have time to order and deliver it on time.

The organization looks completely different finishing works and installation utility networks. First of all, because several different teams are working at a construction site at the same time. Everyone must be provided with the scope of work and the necessary materials. Fulfilling these theoretically simple requirements with your own hands is not so easy. The main difficulty lies in the need to complete work on time and in the appropriate order. Failure to meet a deadline by one group usually results in the second having nothing to do and being idle. This can lead to conflicts and confusion. Unfortunately, not many developers are able to cope with this situation.

Where to start finishing work and in what order?

It depends on what month the finishing work began. The fact is that many of the technologies used require temperatures above +5°C. If work begins in spring or summer, then all processes (including wet ones) can be completed in the order we propose before the onset of frost. If you are finishing the house in late autumn or winter, then the main task is to close the house and put the heating system into operation. Windows and exterior doors will need to be installed first, although carpentry manufacturers (especially wood)

It is usually recommended to install it only after performing wet work. In order not to lose the warranty, it will be necessary to ensure that the joinery is effectively protected from scratches and moisture, for example, using a thick film, and plastering work should be carried out with due care. You can also replace traditional plasters and screeds with dry technologies and use plasterboard sheets and gypsum seamless flooring for finishing the premises. Individual work must be organized so that different teams are constantly provided with a scope of work. This primarily applies to wet work (concreting, plastering), because when performing them, it is necessary to take into account the technological breaks necessary for the setting and hardening of the solution and special care for it. Therefore, each time this work must be carried out in a relatively small area, for example within one room, so that other work can be carried out in another part of the house. But if there is such a possibility, then, of course, it would be much more convenient to carry them out in all rooms at once.

22 stages of finishing work in the house with your own hands

What should the developer do and in what order to complete construction quickly and without problems?

Let's consider this using the example of a one-story brick house with a non-residential attic and a built-in garage.

Let’s say that the construction of a box means that foundations, external and internal walls, ceilings have been built and insulated, gas exhaust, smoke and ventilation ducts have been made, the roof structure along with the covering, floor screed on the ground, terraces, external reinforced concrete stairs, sanitary connections (water supply) and sewer).

1. Leveling the base under the floor

The load-bearing layer of a pound floor is often made of lean concrete, and this is not always done with the proper care. Therefore, as a rule, it needs to be leveled and strengthened by making a concrete heel. If the unevenness is small (up to 1 cm), you can not level the base, but apply a thin layer of self-leveling mixture. However, in case of significant unevenness, it is better to lay a layer of fine-grained concrete 3 cm thick and rub it until smooth.

Attention! If the floor does not provide for the distribution of any networks, it is better to lay its successive layers after the internal plaster has been applied.

2. Electrical wiring

At the same time, in the next room, another team can begin laying the wires of all systems (including telephone cable, antenna, alarm system). It is better to install in protective tubes. Thanks to this, the system can be easily updated or replaced in the future (while avoiding chiseling of walls).

3. Water supply and sewerage

The installation of water and sewer pipes can be carried out simultaneously with the electrical wiring. The location of plumbing fixtures in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet must be determined by this time, that is, the developer must prepare and approve the layout of the premises. This will avoid costly rework in the future.

4. Waterproofing the floor on the ground

After the leveling layer of the floor has dried, you can begin laying the waterproofing. Most often it is a film of appropriate thickness, which is laid overlapping, or roofing felt on mastic (without mineral fillers). For this waterproofing to be reliable, the base must be very carefully swept or vacuumed so that not a single accidentally left nail, piece of cable or piece of pipe can cause damage or rupture. Walking on finished waterproofing should be kept to a minimum, so it is recommended to cover it with a protective layer of concrete or thermal insulation (according to the design) as soon as possible.

5.Thermal insulation of the floor on the ground

Thermal insulation is most often made from ordinary or extruded polystyrene foam, but rigid slabs from mineral wool. Typically, thermal insulation consists of two layers of slabs laid with offset seams. Often, insulation boards are laid simultaneously with waterproofing: thanks to such elastic protection, the risk of damage to roofing material or film is minimal.

6.Central heating system

Simultaneously with the implementation of the second layer of thermal insulation, the pipes of the central heating system are installed. They are laid between polystyrene foam boards, due to which heat loss will be insignificant. Special attention Make sure that the connections to the radiators are at the appropriate height. Since at this stage of work there are no floors or window sills (possible anchor points), it is very easy to make a mistake. Pressure tests must be performed before closing the system. If the connections are loose, the damage can be easily found and repaired.

7. Performing the screed.

A pressure concrete layer (screed) is laid over the thermal insulation layer. The insulation is covered with a construction film, which prevents the penetration of concrete and water from the solution into thermal insulation layer. Depending on the intended thickness of the screed, it may be necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh (it is not needed if the concrete thickness is more than 6 cm). Then you need to secure and align the guide rails (beacons). And only after this can the concrete solution be poured. We must not forget about performing dilatation (that is, expansion joints) in large areas or narrow and long ones. On floors between floors, it is imperative to lay an edge strip around the perimeter to ensure sound insulation.

Attention! The thickness and type of individual floor layers on the ground must correspond to the project conditions and may differ from those described by us. For example, waterproofing can be placed above a layer of thermal insulation

8.We do the interior plaster ourselves

Usually, a few days before the completion of installation work, plastering work begins in one or more rooms. Of course, ceilings are plastered first, then walls, and plastering window openings must be postponed until the windows and interior sills are installed. Before plastering the walls, you need to make transitions from protective pipes for communications. Thanks to this, when laying gas pipes (which should be laid along the top of the walls), there will be no need to drill holes in the finished plaster.

9. Windows and external doors

Plastic windows and internal window sills can be installed before applying internal plaster, as has always been customary (in this case there are no technological interruptions). However, modern wooden windows must be installed after wet work has been completed. This means that after plastering the walls and fragments of window frames (making corners), it is necessary to interrupt the work, install windows, external doors and window sills, and then apply plaster to the remaining areas. Unfortunately, no one likes such breaks in work and this often causes protests from plasterers.

Attention! Dry plastering using drywall can be safely performed after installation wooden windows and doors.

10. Final leveling of the floor

After plastering the walls and ceilings, it is worth laying a thin layer of self-leveling mixture over the entire surface of the floor. This must be done at least six weeks before flooring installation begins. This completes the wet work inside the house.

11. Insulation of external walls

even before the installation of windows and doors is completed, you can begin laying thermal insulation on the external walls of the house, if they are two-layer (single-layer walls do not have insulation, and in three-layer walls, thermal insulation is carried out simultaneously with the construction of the walls). After fixing the polystyrene foam or mineral wool, a primer layer of plaster is applied, reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Then the external window sills are installed.

12. Base and filing

Before applying the outer finishing layer it is necessary to lay facing tiles on the plinth and secure the roof eaves trim (soffit). Possible accidental damage to the primer layer can be easily corrected. At the same time, various brackets and structures are attached to the walls, for example, for hanging shutters, drain pipes or a satellite dish.

13. External plaster

Thin-layer plaster must be laid without interruption (at least on each of the walls), so a large and well-working team is involved in this work. Otherwise, stains and streaks will appear on the façade. Immediately after applying the plaster, it is necessary to attach (already permanently) drainpipes so that rainwater does not damage the plaster.

14. Floor insulation

Before completion facing works you can go back to finishing interior spaces at home (approximately ten days after applying the interior plaster). First of all, it is worth insulating the ceiling. This process does not interfere with other work and, in principle, it can be done at any time, but it is better to keep the humidity level in the house as low as possible. A vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling (if the ceiling is wooden), and then two layers of mineral wool in the form of slabs, shifted relative to each other so as to minimize the possibility of cold bridges. If the attic will serve as a warehouse, then the thermal insulation is placed between the beams of the wooden frame located perpendicular to each other (also two layers). The boards are loosely packed on top to ensure air circulation underneath them.

15. Interior lining and painting

At the same time, you can begin laying tiles in the kitchen, bathrooms, technical room, pantry, garage, and also apply the first coat of paint. Secondary painting is carried out after installation of the gas supply system, laying and sanding of floors.

16. Gas supply system

After applying the interior plaster, you can begin installing the gas supply system, although it is better to do this after the first painting. Transitions left in the walls will greatly facilitate and speed up the work, but first of all, thanks to them, the work will be clean - free of dust and debris

17. Laying flooring

Approximately six weeks from the date of application of the self-leveling mixture, you can begin laying the floor covering. But before starting work, you need to check the humidity of the base (it cannot exceed 3%) - especially in the case of wooden floors. If the base is too wet, you should wait a few more days or dry it using heaters. You can start working only after re-checking the moisture content of the base.

18. Installation of internal doors

After laying the flooring and before applying a second coat of paint, it is worth installing the interior doors. Previously, frames were installed before plastering (in damp walls), but now, in the days of adjustable door frames, this work can be carried out even after the final painting of the premises

19. Final coloring

After the parquet has been sanded, varnished or waxed and protected with film and corrugated cardboard, you can begin to finish painting the walls and ceilings

20. Installation of engineering equipment

At the very end of the construction work, fittings are mounted and technical devices, stoves, boilers, fans, etc. are installed. After this, all that remains is to check the tightness of the installations (pipelines) and the correct operation of the devices - if necessary, adjust or correct anything. The house is now ready to move in.

21. Fence, sidewalks, entrances

After moving into the house, you can begin work on putting the area in order, that is, make a full-fledged fence, decent gates and gates, paving the sidewalk and driveway to the garage, and installing outdoor lighting.

22. Setting up a garden

This is the last stage of work, which is often completed only in the spring of next year. If construction works will be completed in late autumn, it is necessary to spread out the fertile pound and dig it up. It is better to wait until spring to plant trees and bushes.

Note to the owner - what to do if you started doing repairs not with your own hands, but hired a team.

Anything can happen in life - you get sciatica, but the repairs have just started - there is only one thing left - to hire a team. Consultant N. Trushina advises what to do if problems arise with a team of coven workers

It should be emphasized that there are conscientious, competent and trustworthy workers. Therefore, the first step towards a smooth repair is to try to find just such craftsmen. But if it suddenly turns out that the contract has been concluded, the renovation is in full swing, and the craftsmen do not live up to your expectations or are outright slacking, you should be patient, mobilize your mental strength and remember the basic rules of negotiations. They apply to workers of all specialties.

Rule 1. Measure seven times and write everything down

The more detailed the work contract is, the easier it will be for you to protect your rights in the event of a conflict by appealing to this document. Oral agreements have no legal force. They can be forgotten, misunderstood, interpreted differently... Some owners, due to inexperience, fall for a simple manipulation: “Let’s start working and then we’ll see.” “There” will most likely turn out to be too expensive or not at all what you expected. Another “catchphrase” that explains the reluctance to draw up an agreement in its entirety: “Why these formalities, we are all honest people!” The answer is simple: honest people are not afraid to document agreements.

Rule 2: Trust, but verify

If you do not delve into the details, but completely rely on the master, be prepared for the fact that after some time you will discover errors, malfunctions, and shortcomings. And it’s good if it’s still in the process of repair, and not when the team has already disappeared. To prevent this from happening, you will have to understand the nuances of the process, learn to use a level and plumb line, measure verticals and angles, and check the consumption of materials. Are you embarrassed that this will be taken for pettiness? Yes, workers are unlikely to enthusiastically welcome such actions, but they will understand that you are aware of everything, and in case of conflict you have arguments.

Rule 3. Nothing is more important than the little things.

If you are not satisfied with the quality of a particular part of the work, report your dissatisfaction immediately. And even if it concerns small errors. The fact is that unscrupulous workers can “test” the customer - make small errors in technology, slightly violate discipline. If you don’t notice, don’t pay attention or show delicacy, this will be regarded as a signal that you can move on with the violations. Of course, you shouldn’t go to the other extreme: create a scandal and loud debriefing on every issue. It doesn't give you any credibility. Practice the correct intonation: you should communicate what doesn’t suit you calmly and confidently. If your voice breaks (turns into a scream of indignation) or sounds ingratiating, perhaps you are not confident in yourself and in your right to receive quality work. Are your employees putting pressure on you with authority or pity? In this case, it is worth taking a time out and, in a calm atmosphere, assessing the situation, your inner experiences and beliefs.

Rule 4. Defend your position

If, after making comments and voicing dissatisfaction, the conflict is not settled, but continues and intensifies, the foreman (or the workers themselves) can use the tactic “close the door behind me, I’m leaving.” That is, you are faced with a difficult choice: either the workers do what they themselves think is right (that is, not of the highest quality, not meeting technological deadlines, etc.). or they leave together. In some cases, such an ultimatum may be accompanied by additional “horror stories”, for example, that no one will want to work under such conditions anymore, that any other workers will cost you more, etc. You need to understand that these are manipulations and proven tactics negotiations If, at the moment of such a threat, you feel fear, uncertainty, doubt that you are right, or think something like “but they are right,” this small battle is lost. You need to respond to threats with confidence: “Either we work as agreed, or you leave.” There is a chance that workers will actually pack up and leave the house in the middle of renovations. But, firstly, this probability is small. And secondly, in this case you will have the opportunity to find a more conscientious team.

Rule 5: Keep your distance

Attempts to make friends with employees, to win their sympathy and location are, to say the least, useless. If in your heart of hearts you expect that after a hearty tea party and a frank conversation about life, you will be given a discount or treated more responsibly - this is unlikely. At best, the attitude of the masters will remain the same. At worst, employees use the reduced distance between you against you (to bargain again, to persuade you to accept less quality work etc.). In addition, such tea drinking or conversations calm and relax. So avoid familiarity and try to communicate only with the foreman on all work issues.

The construction of any house is carried out in cycles, which have special names. Each of them includes a set of works, as a result of which one large task is completed. The house is built in four cycles: zero, above-ground, finishing and special. On the first, the foundation is erected, on the second - the box, on the third - finishing the house, internal and external, and the fourth includes work on conducting and connecting communications.

Procedure for carrying out internal work

The specificity of finishing a house inside is that finishing work is carried out in parallel with special ones, and compliance with the sequence of individual labor operations is the key to saving money and delivering the project on time.

Need to say, that there is a problem of consistency between specialists are present not only in private housing construction, but also in large construction companies. Moreover, sometimes it is more pronounced in them, which is associated both with the peculiarities of logistics and with the employment of crews at other facilities.

Here is one example of such inconsistency when decorating the inside of a house.

Plasterers work in the house. Before installing the beacons, they asked why the electrical wiring was not installed on the walls. They were told that the electrician team was delayed and they could start plastering. As a result, the electricians arrived when the painting work was already underway and they had to make grooves in the plaster layer, which, after installing the wiring in them, were sealed by the painters. Thus, the electricians did extra work using expensive power tools, and the painters wasted time sealing the grooves.

To prevent this from happening, all internal work must be clearly divided and sequenced performing them together with others.

Sequence of stages

Finishing can be represented in the form of three successive stages:

• rough;
• pre-finishing;
• finishing

Since there are three types of surfaces in one room - ceiling, walls and floor - these stages can differ significantly from each other. Therefore, for most work, the top-down principle is acceptable.

Sometimes it may not work. So, the installation of windows is done first, as well as the installation of plasterboard structures. But other “dry” operations - laying wooden floors, laminate flooring, wall panels, suspended ceilings (except plasterboard) - at the end.

Special work throughout the finishing process is also carried out in stages. For example, installation of main pipelines is performed during rough finishing or before it, and external wiring - after finishing. Hidden internal wiring involves installing grooves at the construction stage, and installing pipes in them before finishing. Plumbing fixtures and fittings (sinks, toilets, bathtubs, faucets) are installed after finishing is completed.

The same principle applies to electrical installation work. The wiring is installed before finishing, panels, socket boxes, distributors - after plastering work, but the sockets themselves, lighting fixtures, switches - after all finishing activities.

Considering the variety of design and decorative solutions used in interiors, each case is individual. But in any case, clear planning stages is very important and this must be done before starting finishing.

Types of home interior decoration

Firms and specialists occupied with interior decoration, the following complexes of work are distinguished:

Some major stages need to be discussed in more detail..

Plastering walls

It is intended for leveling the surface of walls using lime, cement, cement-lime and gypsum mortars. The latter include various dry mixtures of gypsum, filler and inhibitor (so that the gypsum does not set immediately).

Plastering is carried out after installation of electrical wiring, but before installation of water supply, sewerage and heating systems. In winter conditions they often do the opposite, which is very inconvenient and affects the quality.

Plastering is carried out in three steps - spray, primer and covering. Each previous layer must acquire an initial strength before, than the next one will be applied to it. The covering is often made with a different composition: for example, if the spray and soil consists of lime or cement mortar, then the covering may well be gypsum - it does not require labor-intensive grinding and serves as the best basis for subsequent putty.

Pouring floors

It can be done both before finishing and after plastering work. Since this work involves a high probability of contamination of the surrounding surfaces of the walls, it should not be done after the final finishing has been completed. If you decide to do this, care must be taken.

Filling before further finishing work is also convenient because it allows you to make it on the entire floor at one level and facilitate further labor operations, especially those where height marks are required, for example, tiling walls.

Working with drywall

The general rule is that dry work is carried out after wet work. For the most part, this is true - after all, drying wet finish can ruin the drywall, which can cause it to collapse or become a breeding ground for mold fungi.

Therefore, gypsum plaster ceilings are installed after plastering work. This is also more convenient because the profile fits much better on a flat surface, especially if you have brick walls.

An exception may be partitions made of this material if you are not entirely sure whether the screed will withstand the load. Having decided to erect partitions before installing floors, you should remember that their lower part must be protected from moisture. This can be done using a waterproofing device, which should end above the subfloor level.

The second way to avoid getting wet is to install the frame on the ceiling and the sheets above the screed. This may require additional time and material costs for installing the frame, but their volume is small.

Drywall can be an alternative to plaster in cases where the surface will not experience stress, that is, cabinets and other heavy objects will not be hung on it.

An electrical cable is installed between the installation of the frame and the gypsum board fasteners.

Tiling

The optimal order here is the reverse - from bottom to top. That is, first the tiles are laid on the floor exactly below the level, and then on the walls. Unfortunately, this is not always feasible (more often than not, never), so the solution here is simple - wall cladding begins from the second row on a temporarily installed profile. The main thing is to determine where the level of the finished floor will be. With this approach, the floor and the first row of tiles on the wall can be tiled later.

Tiling work is carried out after leveling the wall. Covering may not be necessary, but the ground layer of plaster should not contain differences of more than 8 mm: the maximum permissible layer of tile adhesive is exactly this. It is easier to glue tiles on a surface made of moisture-resistant plasterboard, but the wall must be primed in any case. If you doubt the strength of the base, concrete contact soils can be used as a primer.

Electrical wiring is laid in any case before facing work, and holes for sockets are also made before them, which are then duplicated on the tiles. This order will not create additional difficulties when installing glasses under sockets.

Slopes for windows

This service is often included in the window installation package. Don't rush to use it, because you may become a hostage to someone else's work schedule. Slopes can be completely different, and the time when they can be installed depends on their type.

• Plastering is done simultaneously with plastering.
• Slopes made of gypsum board are installed after plastering work, but before puttying.
• Slopes made of PVC panels are installed after finishing.

Accordingly, combined types of this window element are made in stages: drywall before putty, and an overlay panel after finishing.

The interior decoration of a private house has a number of features, the main of which are small volumes and great variety. If you decide to invite specialists for work, give preference to those who have related specialties; they will be able to navigate the work procedure themselves. Unlike apartment building, the finishing of which is carried out by large teams and is paid for specific work; in individual housing construction, payment for the final result dominates, and it is not profitable for the worker to do extra work. If you decide to do everything yourself, you will have to stock up on tools and take your time.

It should be remembered that all finishing work should begin no earlier than the roof of the house. It is better to work in the warm season, this will save you money on heating. Walls and ceilings must be dry. As examples, consider the complex interior work in the room and in the bathroom.

Room decoration

Room with two windows, plaster slopes. The ceiling is two-level with halogen lamps. The walls are covered with wallpaper. Door with platband. There are two sconces on the wall. The floor is natural parquet board.

Initial data: External and internal walls - ceramic brick, partition - gypsum plasterboard. The ceiling is a reinforced concrete slab. Windows have been installed.

Operating procedure:

Bathroom

Initial data: outer wall made of aerated concrete, internal and partition - made of ceramic bricks. There is a ventilation duct in the inner wall.

The result should be a combined bathroom with hidden communications, one socket for washing machine, forced ventilation in a suspended ceiling made of metal slats. Walls and floor - tiles.

Progress:

Here are the simplest cases of interior work. The order in which you will have to produce them depends on the design and technological solutions in your home.

about me and my team

Stroganov Kirill

I have been renovating for over 15 years. The most pleasant thing for me is a solid list of satisfied clients.

My main task is to organize the repair process in such a way that it would be easy and pleasant when interacting with me and my team. I am as open as possible for you.

I will help you choose modern material, both expensive and not expensive.
I optimize the estimate. Many years of experience allow me to offer you an optimal reduction in the cost of repairs without loss of quality, even in the premium class.

I managed to assemble an excellent team that works harmoniously. This allows you to strictly adhere to work deadlines, stay within the agreed budget and save your time and effort.

We approach our work with pleasure, starting from creating a design project and ending with advice on arranging furniture and decorating the room.

Finishing work, how to do it correctly and inexpensively.

Finishing work (FW) is a process that results in the creation of a protective layer for a structure. She receives protection from external negative influences. The service life of surfaces also significantly improves and a more attractive appearance is created. Thanks to competent finishing, such characteristics of the object as sound insulation and fire resistance are also improved.

Types of finishing work

Since they can be carried out from the outside and from the inside of the room, their types are corresponding. A more detailed division is as follows:

1. Plastering.
2. Painting.
3. Working with glass.
4. Facing.
5. Wallpapering.
6. Stucco work.
7. Working on clean floors.

Before finishing work the following stages must be completed:

1. Preparation.
2. Dismantling.
3. Draft ORs.
4. Finishing OR.
5. Electrical work.
6. Plumbing operations.

Preparation stage

The main thing here is the preparation of the room. Furniture and other obstacles to work are removed from it. The creation of the required space is determined by the plan of the planned work and the type of repair. If a major renovation is planned, then all the furniture is removed from all rooms.

At cosmetic repairs furniture from one room can be moved to another. Very massive furniture can remain in the room, but it should be moved to the center of the room.

It is also important to remove old wallpaper.

If it is necessary to replace the floor covering, the work is carried out in parts. Any change in the position of massive furniture after the final stage of repair is carried out very carefully.

You can replace doors without changing blocks after repairs. If it is necessary to replace door blocks, these actions are performed before working on the walls.

Dismantling

Here operations are carried out to eliminate old components: finishing, wiring, plumbing, etc.

The goal is to improve the quality of upcoming repairs, replacement of structures or redevelopment.

Dismantling can be done on your own. You can turn to professionals. One way or another, it can affect the following objects:

Flooring,

Ceiling,

Wiring,

Separate outbuildings.

Old wallpaper, paint and varnish coatings, tiles and other finishing must be removed from the walls and ceiling. They will be replaced by more modern materials. And also such dismantling allows us to identify various effects and carry out high-quality leveling of surfaces.

Partitions may also need to be eliminated. Additional openings for windows and doors are cut down.

When dismantling the floor, its covering material is removed. Both logs and boards can be removed if a concrete base is planned.

Plasterboard structures on the ceiling are eliminated.

How to remove windows, doors and wiring?

When windows and doors have solid thermal conductivity, they are replaced - they are completely dismantled.

Delete electrical wiring need to be very careful to avoid electric shock. Before this process, all electricity in the apartment/house is turned off. Then all the wires coming from the distributor, sockets and other current-carrying places are cut off with wire cutters.

When the cable is installed in the wall, it is better to remove it using a chisel, hammer, hammer drill, or drill. When removing it, it is important not to damage the necessary electrical appliances.

They include the following:

1. Plaster. The goal is to close cracks and uneven areas greater than 5 mm. The work affects walls and ceilings. Cement compositions used:

With lime

With sand

With plaster.

There are also stages of work here:

A) Surfaces are prepared for the base.

B) Beacon profiles are installed.

C) The walls are finally leveled.

1. Masonry stage. Systems are created from isolated building materials. Their assembly is obtained using a certain algorithm. They are strengthened by cement mortar.

Partitions, walls, columns, fireplaces can be installed. Materials worth using are natural stone, foam blocks, bricks, etc.

1. Working with drywall. Walls, various partitions, arches, slopes, hanging mechanisms, etc. are installed.

1. Painting stage. Surfaces are processed, primed, reinforced (if necessary), ground and polished. The final phase is puttying with leveling agents.

1. Plumbing. Sewerage, water supply and communication systems are being installed. Pipes are installed and routed. Their tightness is checked. Devices that take into account water consumption are installed. An area is prepared on the floor for a bathtub, shower stall and other plumbing fixtures.
2. Electrical installation. Wall chipping. Wires and cables are laid. Areas for sockets and switches are being prepared. Openings are created in the walls for panels and meters, fuses, and distribution blocks.

Ceilings are installed here. If necessary - and a variety of rack and other structures.

Walls and ceiling surfaces are painted. Mixtures for painting are placed in several layers on the treated surfaces (after priming and puttying).

Wallpaper is pasted. The walls are primed before this. Wallpaper is selected according to taste and the purpose of the room, as well as the type of wall surface. The glue is selected based on the type of wallpaper. For example, to hang non-woven wallpaper, you should not use glue for regular paper wallpaper.

You can install tiles in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The process can occur on:

Cement composition,

Glue solution,

Mastic.

The surface for the tiles is prepared: plastered, leveled, screeded (if necessary).

The floors are being laid. This can be parquet, laminate, linoleum and other materials. Thresholds and baseboards are installed.

Doors and their components are installed: trims, stops and other fittings.

Lighting devices are being installed. They can be on ceilings, walls and floors.

Plumbing is being installed.

Replacing wiring is a necessary operation even for cosmetic repairs. Such activities can be realized through your own efforts. But you still need the help of professionals in this field. Prices for these services vary. Their calculation is based on the type, difficulty and volume of planned work. The replacement of the socket is usually calculated immediately. A specialist can make some calculations right away, having studied the scope of work and learned the wishes of the customer.

During this stage:

1. New wiring is being designed and installed. It can be isolated or open. This is a matter of the owner's wishes.

1. Switches and sockets are completely or partially replaced. Their work is being adjusted. They can also be transferred from one area to another.
2. Old lamps are removed. New devices are installed and transferred.

1. If necessary, the reason for the lack of current in a certain section of the circuit is identified.

1. Various meters, automatic devices and RCDs are installed.

1. The shield is assembled and assembled. There can also be several shields.

1. Old communications are being eliminated.

1. Lightning rods are installed and a grounding loop is installed.

1. Networks with low voltage are installed: TV, Internet, telephone communications.

During this installation they can also: groove walls, lay wires in created grooves, install main cable trays, etc. The main quality characteristics of these works are:

1. All components of the chain work harmoniously.
2. Electricity is supplied without interruption.

Plumbing work

They include a fairly wide range of different works. Some work is simple and can be done on your own. And some can only be performed by specialists. And they mean hefty expenses. Examples of such work:

1. Installation and repair of plumbing equipment, water supply networks.
2. Connecting and adjusting household equipment.

It is optimal to order a complex of works. In this case, serious expenses will arise, but your plumbing fixtures will be of high quality.

The materials used, their pros and cons

The types of materials depend on the place of their application.

Options for wall decoration:

First. Wallpaper. They can have textures, photos, images, be glossy, matte, monotonous, etc.

Their advantages:

1. Solid variety.
2. Different price range.
3. Ease of wall preparation.
4. High dynamics and ease of gluing.

1. Susceptibility to mechanical stress.
2. If any area is damaged after painting, if it is difficult to replace. The reason is the differences in the shades of the editions.

Second. Decorative plaster. It can be used in various designs. Its advantages:

1. Serious texture and color range.
2. You can make your own image on it.
3. Moisture resistant.
4. Durability.

Its disadvantages:

1. High difficulty of application.
2. The price tag is too high.

Third. Dye. It is also versatile. Strengths:

1. Abundance of flowers.
2. Can be used in different rooms. Moisture- and oil-resistant versions can be used in the bathroom and kitchen.

1. Ease of application.

1. Long service life.

1. There are versions at any price.
2. allowed to create patterns on the wall.

1. Reveals all uneven areas on the surface.
2. Requires 2-3 layers of coverage.
3. Foul smell.
4. Long drying process.

Fourth. Tile. Usually it is glued in bathrooms and kitchens. Her strengths:

1. Moisture resistant.
2. Easy to launder.
3. Resistant to light mechanical stress and wear.
4. Does not ignite.
5. An abundance of color modifications, textures and sizes.

Weaknesses:

1. Modest sound and heat insulation.
2. Fragility.
3. Complex installation process.
4. High price tags.

Fifth. MDF panels. Pros:

1. Fast and easy installation.
2. Environmental Safety.
3. There is no need to prepare walls for them.
4. abundance of types and colors.
5. Convenient cleaning during use.
6. Modest prices.

1. They show strong stains and traces of liquid.
2. Quite fragile.
3. Sensitive to moisture.
4. This is a flammable material.
5. Unpresentable appearance.

Sixth. Tree. The usual option for country houses and baths. Pros:

1. Creating a warm atmosphere.
2. Hiding uneven areas.
3. Ease of installation.
4. Abundance of forms.
5. Improves noise insulation.
6. Nice smell.
7. Environmental friendliness.
8. It can be painted in different colors and tones.
9. With proper processing, rot resistance and durability appear.

1. Serious prices.
2. The need to update the defense against insects and moisture.
3. Doesn't cope well with temperature changes.

In private homes, the interior becomes chic thanks to natural stone. Its advantages:

1. Durability.
2. Graceful look.
3. Strength.
4. Environmental friendliness.
5. Resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

1. Solid prices.
2. Massiveness.
3. They become clogged with dust. It's difficult to remove.

For those who need modern materials, PVC panels are suitable.

Their advantages:

1. Quick installation.
2. Lightweight covering.
3. Abundance of colors and images.
4. Modest prices.
5. Ecology.
6. Heat and sound insulation.
7. Resistance to moisture.
8. Durability.

1. Flammability.
2. Fragility.
3. Sunburn.

Options for working with the ceiling

Tension and plasterboard options usually appear here. Their comparison is outlined in this table:

Characteristics	Tensioner	Drywall
Environmental friendliness
Aesthetics
Safety
Durability
The need for powerful surface preparation
Abundance of designs
High speed and ease of installation
High prices
Potential sags
Difficult to install yourself
Difficulty in removing dirt
Potential web tearing, collapse
Fragility
Weakness before low temperatures
Damaged area cannot be replaced
Easy to scratch
When using powerful lamps, spots appear
High prices
Perfect flatness
Various designs can be created
On top this material fits perfectly with any covering
Insulation and cables can be placed behind this material
Not the best durability
Resistance to moisture and fungi
The need to plaster seams and screws

You can decorate the ceilings from the inside with wallpaper, paints and whitewash.

Whitewashing is a fairly old decoration method. Its advantages:

1. Ease of implementation.
2. Cheapness.
3. Does not reduce ceiling heights.
4. The ability to "breathe".
5. Ecology.
6. Mold protection

1. The need for surface preparation.
2. One color option- white.
3. cannot be washed.

If you are a supporter of the classics, then a white ceiling is your option. You can use whitewash. Usually its color is selected in lighter colors by analogy with the color of the walls.

Flooring options

All of them must have the following qualities:

1. Easy to use.
2. High strength.
3. Fire resistance.
4. Non-slip surface.
5. Possibility for additional insulation.

If you want to universal option, then linoleum will do. It is great for any room. Thanks to the abundance of colors and images, it easily matches any interior.

If you need an option with a better look, then it is better to take laminate or wood. They have some analogies.

In rooms with high humidity and floor loads, it is better to use ceramic tiles.

Even today carpet has gained a good reputation. This is an elegant replacement for carpets.

Characteristics	Linoleum			Ceram. tile	Carpet
Easy and quick installation
Moisture resistance
Heat and noise insulation
Strength
Easy to clean
Plenty of choice
Tendency to deformation
Resistance to chemical elements
Low temperature resistance
Resistance to temperature changes
Ecology
Affordability
Durability
Noise due to improper installation
Special training required before installation
Counterfeits on sale
Stable stains appear.
Easy to care for
Unpleasant odors

For floor finishing, these options are less commonly used: natural stone, cork, rubber, bamboo and self-leveling flooring.

Frequent mistakes when performing finishing work

Errors made during OR can negatively affect their quality and service life:

1. A design project has not been created that reflects the visual result. It helps to understand in advance what the interior will look like upon completion of the work. This will allow you to correctly calculate the required volumes of materials and resolve the issue of types and volumes and the required work.
2. The positions of plumbing and electrical equipment have not been determined. Even at the beginning of the repair, you need to solve this dilemma in order to:

A) Determine how and where sockets and switches will be located.

B) Develop a method for laying cables, pipes, ventilation, etc.

C) Calculate the load of the installation structure.

For example, if you randomly plan the positions of lighting devices without delimiting them into groups, in some areas of the premises you will end up with very weak or very strong lighting.

1. IN in the right places there are no reinforced structures, reinforcement or insulation. Example: if the partitions are plasterboard, then in areas where massive furniture and other similar elements are installed, a reinforced profile must be installed.
2. The condition of all major surfaces in the room has not been studied for defects. The same applies to communications. Example: if you do not change the wiring in an old house, it may not cope with the load from a powerful household appliances. Eventually the circuit breakers will fail.
3. There is no study of sources of heat loss. Example: without insulating walls in apartments where this is necessary, they can freeze and become damp. Mold and fungi form on them.
4. The repairs are partially being carried out. If it is not carried out uniformly in the whole apartment, but only in rooms, level differences in the ceilings in the rooms may arise. This will make it more difficult to establish communications, and the created coatings will be damaged.

If the available funds are not enough for a complete renovation, it is better to save up and arrange full-fledged work.

1. Use of cheap materials and compositions. As a rule, such materials are not durable. They won't last long. And soon we will have to do repairs again. Example - if you lay metal-plastic pipes with cheap fittings, there is a high risk of leaks.
2. There is no control over repair work. Control is necessary when hiring workers. For example, they may deviate from the design project, install sockets or pipes in the wrong areas, etc. Therefore, it is important to monitor the quality of work at all stages.
3. Repair of poor quality. This point follows from paragraph 8. Some teams charge small amounts for their services. Most often the reason for this is low professional level workers. Such teams can make repairs for a very long time and with poor quality. The end result is a waste of money.

Factors influencing the cost of repairs

Repair is a global event. It requires certain costs. But what factors make up its cost? Their list is as follows:

1. Professional level of employees. The higher it is, the higher the dynamics and speed of repairs.
2. The responsibilities that experts can assume and the guarantees they provide.
3. Hiring a team or agreement with a company. In the second case, the payment is always higher, but there are more guarantees for high quality repairs, and all activities are reflected in the documentation.
4. The amount of work carried out by a team or company.
5. Number of decorative components. For example, due to the use of 3D panels and ceiling lights, the cost of work also increases. These nuances must be provided for in advance. The simpler the repair is, the easier it is to agree on an estimate.
6. Dynamics of work implementation. Here workers can work in two shifts. Accordingly, the payment will be higher.
7. Hiring a foreman. It is needed if for some reason you cannot control the execution of the work yourself. And if you can, and even purchase the materials yourself, then you get savings. But the time investment is enormous.

ElenaRudenkaya (Builderclub expert)

Good afternoon.

Svetlana, you are absolutely right that for finishing work you need to hire specialists, and high-class ones at that. All finishing work is on the surface and visible to the owners. Ironically, there is usually little money left for these works and materials, and this is where people begin to save. My personal opinion is that correct, high-quality, clean execution on at this stage. Builders need to be supervised day and night or a foreman must be paid well to keep an eye on the workers.

Exterior and interior finishing work can be carried out simultaneously, that is, a team of 6 people can complete the work in parallel. Although this will be more expensive, it will be faster.

External finishing includes plastering under the mesh and painting the facade, as well as finishing the base (usually clinker tiles, stone tiles, etc.) polymer tiles,resin based tiles,fake diamond, slate, PVC panels, various plasters).

I recommend making a blind area in the first year after building a house, since sedimentary water can greatly soak the foundation. It’s better to make the blind area first, and then start finishing. After exterior finishing, take care of the drainage system and drainage immediately.

Before any finishing work begins, partitions and entrance doors, at least temporary. As for the interior decoration of a private house, all work on interior decoration begin after the subfloor has been created, electrical wiring has been installed, heating and plumbing have been installed. That is, a rough floor screed is produced. To do this, the main engineering communications are installed: electrical cable, pipes for water supply and sewerage pipes are drawn, and diesel fuel is supplied if there is no gas pipeline in the house. The source of water supply can be central water supply systems, boreholes or wells. When all the necessary communications have been made, the floor is covered with expanded clay (or half sand and then expanded clay), on top of which a rough concrete screed is poured. Or EPPS is laid over the pipes and a rough screed reinforced with a mesh of 100x100 mm and a wire thickness of 3-4 mm is poured.Next, all utilities are laid and installed. At this stage of finishing work, walls are tapped, electrical cables are laid, and sockets for sockets and switches are prepared. A special heat-retaining material isolon is spread over the rough screed, covered with a special mesh and heated floor pipes are laid. Place the beacons and fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture. They extend pipes to all heating radiators and bring pipes with a heating cable from the water supply into the house. They cut and lay out hot and cold water supply pipes, lay internal sewerage pipes and lead to a septic tank or pit. In this case, it is necessary to know in advance the layout of the kitchen and bathrooms, with all the furniture and plumbing fixtures.

1. It is most convenient to start interior finishing work from the ceiling. Because in any case, something will “blur” or fall somewhere, and then you will have to clean the surface or even redo it again.

Attention: At this moment, tiles are laid on the walls or the walls are painted.

2. Floor finishing. It should be immediately noted that the finishing floor covering is laid at the very end, after all finishing is completed, so as not to accidentally damage it during all the work.

The choice of flooring depends on what the floor will be, concrete or wood. So, any floor coverings are suitable for concrete floors, starting from ceramic floor tiles and ending with parquet. But for wood, there are certain restrictions on materials. To finish them, you can use solid boards, parquet, laminate, linoleum. Such limitations are associated with the design of the wooden floor and the technology of laying floor coverings. Of course, you can even lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor and install a “warm floor” system, but the reliability and durability of such a design will be in question.

3. The last stage of work after finishing the ceiling is finishing the walls of a private house. This applies to wallpapering.

This is approximately how everything should happen. Ask.

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