home Warm floor Remodeling an old stove. Do-it-yourself Russian stove: row laying of a Russian stove

Remodeling an old stove. Do-it-yourself Russian stove: row laying of a Russian stove

An old Russian stove is a very effective source of heat, used to heat country houses, prepare delicious dishes and baked goods. The efficiency of using the energy of burned wood is at least 60%, due to which the brick structure is of interest to private developers and homeowners.

This material will be useful for novice stove makers and home craftsmen who want to organize it themselves. We propose to study the structure of a classic design with a stove bench, then consider the designs and arrangements of modern versions of the Russian stove.

Construction of a traditional oven

We will not describe the history of the Russian stove and its role in a village house - the topic is widely covered in fiction and technical literature. Let's get straight to the point - let's briefly examine the traditional design shown in the figure below:

The lower part of the structure - the guardianship - was built from stone or wood - cedar, larch. The walls of the base form a niche - a stove where firewood was dried and household utensils were stored.
On top of the guardianship, the first arched vault and a large firebox of the furnace - the crucible - were built. Under and the second arched vault was made with a slope towards the brow - the front part of the structure.
A roof was placed over the furnace, where the bed was located. The cavity between the second arch of the firebox and the ceiling was filled with sand to increase the heat capacity.
In front of the mouth of the furnace, a special niche was provided - a bend, ending at the top with a hail (smoke collector) and the chimney itself. The horizontal shelf at the bottom of the opening - the shelf - has a semicircular window facing outwards.
Stoves were installed in the side walls of the brick heater - small niches for drying clothes and other things. The chimney was equipped with a valve and a view located above the heil.

Reference. The history of the evolution of the Russian classic stove is described in great detail in the popular book of the same name, author - Gennady Fedotov, published in 2003.

A real Russian stove is fundamentally different from other brick heating structures in the following ways:

deep vaulted firebox made with a forward slope;
the chimney is located in the front - in the center or in the corner of the building;
An indispensable attribute is a bench located above the fuel chamber.

Now let’s look at the operating principle of the stove, shown in the diagram:

The firewood is placed closer to the back wall of the furnace and lit. The combustion air enters through the outer window of the hearth and the mouth of the firebox, and moves above the bottom of the chamber.
The heat generated during combustion heats the body of the furnace - the side walls, sand backfill and bench.
Light combustion products rise to the roof of the firebox. The slope does not allow gases to immediately leave the chamber - first they give off heat to the ceiling, then they become heavier and are forced out by a new hot flow.
Having passed under the arch of the furnace, the combustion products exit through the upper zone of the mouth, rise into the smoke collector and leave the stove through the chimney.

Note. During the combustion process, bread is not baked or food is cooked. When the oven is well heated, the coals are first removed from the firebox, then food is loaded into metal dishes - cast iron pots - using a grab handle. The outlet is closed by a damper.

Brick heater with access to 2 rooms of a wooden house

Despite its many advantages, a Russian stove with a stove bench is rarely built in a traditional design. Useful space in a modern interior is worth its weight in gold, and a classic heater takes up a lot of space, while poorly warming the lower zone of the room. For construction, it is better to consider projects of modernized structures, where this problem has been solved.

Improved heater options

Many Russian masters were involved in the modernization of the classic stove - I. Kuznetsov, I. Podgorodnikov, A Emshanov, A. Batsulin. The essence of the changes is as follows: the details of the old design were taken as a basis - the vaulted furnace, the bend and the high above the mouth. New functional elements were added to them:

Note. The changes made allow the stove to be heated in two ways: in Russian (the smoke comes out through the mouth and high) and in the heating and cooking mode (gases move around the channels).

Another example - vertical passages are arranged in the side wall, forming a heating shield

We tried to clearly describe common concepts; there are many more existing options. The purpose of the changes is to improve the heat transfer and functionality of the basic design. If desired, either an oven is mounted inside the flues (the cabinet is placed next to the firebox).

Now we will analyze the updated options in detail using specific examples - with drawings and procedures.

Mini-oven project with stove

The Russian heating and cooking stove “Teplushka” with an additional combustion chamber has a power of 3.5 kW. The structure is designed for heating a small house or cottage with an area of 30-40 m², as well as cooking in winter and summer. The device of a small heater is shown in the drawing.

The mini-oven can operate in 3 modes:

Summer move. We open valves 1, 2 and 3 (see the picture), load the firewood with firewood. The gases immediately escape through the main channel into the pipe, and the stove heats up. Damper No. 3 plays the role of a hood.
Firebox for winter. We use the lower chamber again and close valve No. 1. Then the combustion products move through the furnace and flue ducts into the oven, exit through the channel to the front side and then into the main chimney. The entire body of the furnace is heated, from bottom to top.
Firebox in Russian. We light firewood in the furnace, open the sealed mouth door and valve No. 3, valves 1 and 2 are closed. The smoke goes into the hailo and the main chimney, only the stove bench is heated. For full heating, close the door, open damper No. 2 - the gases will flow through the lower channels of the stove.

Note. The diagram of gas movement under different operating modes is shown in the figure.

Thanks to its efficiency and relatively low cost of materials, a mini-stove can easily be called a housekeeper. One minus is the small size of the bed. The maximum height of the building is 2.1 m, in the area of the ceiling - 147 cm.

Building materials and stove fittings

To make a Russian mini-oven with your own hands, you need to buy components and materials:

Appearance of a finished mini-stove for a country house

Red brick laying is done using sand-clay mortar. When constructing a chimney, it is allowed to add M400 cement. Fireproof stones are placed on another solution - fireclay clay, mortar and the like.

Laying progress - step-by-step instructions

A reinforced concrete or rubble concrete foundation is cast under the furnace, the dimensions of which are 10 cm greater than the dimensions of the structure. Start construction when the concrete reaches 75% strength; under normal conditions, the hardening process will take about 2 weeks. This assumes an average daily air temperature of +20 °C and proper care of the monolith.

Having installed waterproofing from 2 layers of roofing material, make the first row continuous (40 bricks will be needed). How to fold the stove according to the order, read on:

An ash chamber is formed on 2-3 tiers, a cleaning door is installed, and columns are built to support the bottom of the furnace. The 4th row continues the main walls of the stove; the ash chamber is covered with cut stones.
Rows 5-6 form the main smoke channel and the bottom of the firebox made of refractory bricks. The grate is installed without mortar; a row of fireclay stones placed on edge is placed on top.
On the 7th tier a loading door and a vertical summer shutter are installed. Rows 7-9 are laid according to the pattern, at the end the fireclay brick is covered with kaolin wool (marked in green). Please note: on the seventh tier the walls are reinforced with steel mesh.
Rows 10 and 11 partially cover the flues and the lower heating chamber; a grate for the furnace and a hob are installed. The 12th tier begins to form the main firebox, and on the 13th tier the door is attached to the mouth of the furnace.
Rows 14-17 are laid according to the diagram, corners are installed to cover the cooking opening. On the 18th tier, steel profiles are covered, and an arched vault with a radius of 46 cm is built from wedge-shaped stones.
Tiers 19, 20 are made according to the scheme, the cavity between the vault and the walls is filled with sand or filled with thick masonry mortar. When the filler dries, 21 rows are laid - the roof.
From 22 to 32 tiers the front part of the heater is built. On the 24th row, both smoke valves are placed, on the 25th - an iron shelf measuring 42 x 32 cm. Having laid the 29th tier, cover the stove with the same sheet.

Recommendation. Create a gap between the ceramic and refractory masonry using regular packing cardboard. Subsequently, the paper will burn out, but the gap will remain. Horizontal seams between red and fireclay bricks are not filled with mortar, only with kaolin wool.

To understand the construction down to the smallest detail, we suggest watching a video with a detailed demonstration of the masonry of each row and explanations from the master:

Russian "teplushka" with a couch 127 x 166 cm

The design and principle of operation of this stove are similar to the previous heat source. The difference is in size, power and some design features. There are also 3 modes available here - winter, summer and Russian fire. The heat output is 4.5 kW, the heated area is 45-50 m².

In winter mode, firewood can be burned on the grate of the furnace or in the firebox - the gases will still flow through the lower passages and warm up the entire stove

The size of the stove in plan is 1270 x 1660 mm plus 10 cm for the projection of the foundation. The height of the front part is 210 cm, the height of the bed is 147 cm. Set of materials for construction:

refractory bricks ША-8 – 26 pcs.;
red solid brick – 995 pcs. (the chimney is not included in the specified quantity);
fireclay block type ШБ-94 – 1 pc.;
main door installed at the mouth - 41 x 25 cm;
ash pan door 14 x 25 cm, firebox door – 21 x 25 cm;
2 grates with dimensions 240 x 415 and 220 x 325 mm;
stove 71 x 41 cm (2 burners);
chimney damper type ZV-5, size 260 x 240 x 455 mm;
2 valves 130 x 250 mm;
sheet steel 2 mm thick;
galvanized reinforcing mesh – 1.5 lm (mesh 30 x 30, wire 1 mm in diameter);
template for forming an arch, radius – 322.5, length – 645 mm;
circled under the arch of the main firebox with a radius of 60 and a length of 77 cm;
corrugated packaging cardboard, kaolin wool.

This is what a large Teplushka with a power of 4.5 kW looks like

Preparatory work - establishing a reliable foundation. Keep in mind that after pouring the foundation, the formwork can be removed after 3-4 days (during the warm period), and the stove can be built only after 2 weeks. The base area is covered with waterproofing - roofing felt folded in half.

How to properly lay out a full-size “Teplushka”:

Row No. 1 is continuous, consisting of 65 ceramic bricks. On the second tier, we begin to form the walls of the furnace and support columns, and install the door of the ash chamber. We install 8 stones on a poke without mortar and cut them to the height of the 3rd row. We do not connect it with the rest of the masonry - these will be cleaning hatches.
We place the third tier according to the diagram, on the 4th we cover the ash pan. On the 5th row, we begin to build the walls of the firebox from refractory, insert a grate 415 x 240 mm.
Rows 6 and 7 continue to be laid according to the pattern, fireclay stones are placed on the edge. After the formation of the 7th tier, we install the firebox door and the summer valve installed vertically. Rows 8-9 are built according to the order.
On the 10th tier we cover the floodplain and cover the upper ends of the refractory bricks with kaolin wool. The front part of the chamber must be covered with fireclay block ШБ-94 or similar. We begin to reinforce the walls of the furnace with galvanized wire mesh, then we arrange a re-covering of red bricks (row 11).
On the finished 11th tier we insert the stove and grate bars of the main chamber - the furnace. We make level No. 12 according to the order and install a large door. Then we lay out the 13th tier and arch using a circle.
We build rows 14-17 according to the drawings, raising the outer walls of the furnace, the smoke channel and the front partition of the furnace. Next we lay an arched vault R = 60 cm made of wedge bricks. We continue to build tiers 18 and 19 according to the diagrams.
In the twentieth row we block the front arch and raise the outer walls higher. We fill the void above the vault with a solution of clay and sand. After drying, we build tier 21 - the plane of the bed.
Tiers 22-32 make up the front section of the stove, where the chimney is combined with the side flue. We line up the rows according to the diagrams, on the 24th level we install 2 valves, on the 29th level we place a sheet of metal covering the stove.

The expert will give step-by-step instructions for building a Russian multifunctional stove in his video:

The construction of a Russian heating stove is a serious matter. It will be very difficult for a homeowner without experience in the stove business, so we recommend stocking up on time and patience. We published detailed instructions for preparing the mortar and laying it in an article about building a fireplace; we advise beginners to read it.

Reference. Often, stove makers strengthen the arch and walls with an iron frame welded from corners.

Finally, a few words about how to properly heat a new stove. After drying the stove for 2-3 days (in summer), first light a small fire on the top damper. When the pipe warms up, start heating the furnace little by little, then the lower chamber. Increase the amount of firewood slowly, do not rush. The task is to uniformly heat the furnace body for final drying.

Conclusion

Even with every desire, it is unrealistic to describe in detail the construction of a Russian stove - craftsmen devote decades of their lives to studying and improving the technology. Hence the last recommendation: talk to an experienced stove maker in person - he can tell you about pitfalls and secrets that you won’t find on the Internet.

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is heating rooms in the winter, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the ability to preserve crops by drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
Six- area on which you can place the pot.
Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
View- closing door.
Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For masonry of the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

Doors: firebox and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation door for the chimney.
Grate;
Metal valves;
View;
Furnace damper;
Water box;
Plate;
Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

If solid brick grade M150 is used for masonry, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
When using fireclay bricks use refractory clay mortars;
In the gap between the attic space, brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Typically the furnace is located against an internal wall that has a shallow foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the stove is placed near the outer wall, on a recessed strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and backfill it with sand and gravel with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden posts. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

Further masonry proceeds depending on the height of the room: From the outside, the chimney will narrow with a step in front of the ceiling, and then a pipe will be formed that will pass through the ceiling and roof. This is where DIY ends.

All that remains is to lay the pipe above the roof surface - and you can safely start heating!

When you mention the Russian stove, associations arise with fairy tales and magic. And also - with incredibly tasty and aromatic dishes and a warm atmosphere. It is amazing that the fire of her simple hearth has not gone out even in our technological era. Thanks to the revival of individual construction, this wonderful heating unit is still held in high esteem by owners of country houses. Making it yourself, with detailed instructions at hand, will not be so difficult.

Why are Russian stoves so popular?

The incredible “survivability” of the Russian stove lies in its functionality - it is used both as a cooking unit and as a heating unit, and the latter, contrary to popular belief, is by no means the primary function. In its simplest form, the design is a very deep fireplace, essentially a large firebox with a chimney.

Russian stove of traditional design

Thanks to the thick walls and massive arch, the heat-storing ability of the Russian stove can be the envy of any other solid fuel unit. The same factor also plays into the benefits of efficiency. The structure can remain warm throughout the day, so it does not require a lot of firewood to maintain the temperature within a comfortable range. Here it is impossible not to mention the extremely convenient design with a bed or bed.

The design of the Russian stove is also unique in terms of creating culinary masterpieces. The wide temperature gradient of the firebox is very convenient to use during cooking. If it is necessary to obtain rapid heating, the cast iron with its contents is moved closer to the hearth. If it is necessary to reduce the intensity of boiling, then it is moved to the periphery, closer to the sides. By the way, the Russian stove has a unique ability that no other heating and cooking unit has. The walls and roof of the furnace, heated to a high temperature, are able to maintain a very high temperature even after the fuel has completely burned out. The infrared rays emitted by the surface allow you to bake or simmer foods for a long time, obtaining an incomparable taste and a golden, appetizing crust. The advantage of this method of cooking also lies in the fact that it does not come into contact with either fire or a gaseous environment, so there can be no talk of any carcinogens.

Today, the Russian stove is an extremely functional heating device with a hob, water heater and a place to relax

Modern heating devices can be classified according to the presence of one of the following characteristics:

The presence of a slab and a flood. The hob is built directly into the body of the stove, creating a so-called hearth, which was made blind in the canonical model.
Placement of a fireplace on the back side of the stove, which opens into the adjacent room. The practicality of this method is extremely high, since with two heating devices there is no need to construct separate chimneys and foundation slabs.
Attached to the stove is a coarse or trestle bed. They still, as before, increase the comfort and convenience of the heating device, although the dimensions of modern stove beds cannot be compared with the dimensions of traditional stoves, which were designed for 3-4 people.

The integration of the stove into the array of the Russian stove not only expanded its cooking capabilities, but also made it possible to heat the side heating shield and the lower part of the structure. Based on this factor, units with side heating are distinguished, which are used to heat the next room, as well as heat generators with bottom heating. The presence of a flood in the latter makes it possible to warm up the walls that are below the level of the hearth. Due to increased heat transfer, it becomes possible to heat a room of increased area without the need to expand the dimensions of the device.

Bottom heating significantly increases thermal performance

Advantages and disadvantages (table)

pros	Minuses
High efficiency - from 50 to 70%.	The ability to operate only on fuels that do not require increased air flow. It will not be possible to convert it to gas or fuel oil.
Safe design.	Cumbersome design. Additional load on the floor - it can only be installed on the first floor.
Undemanding to materials - when building a furnace, you can only get by with brick, sand and clay.	After cooling, the unit requires a long warm-up.
Uniform heat transfer.	Ineffective smoke circulation - due to miscalculations in construction, the heating device may smoke.
Durability.	Inconvenience when cleaning the firebox from ash.
Possibility of heating the adjacent room.
Convenience and comfort of a bed.
The surface of the bed can emit infrared energy for a long time, which has an excellent therapeutic effect.

In addition, a Russian stove will require the owner to be able to handle a grip, a frying pan, pots and cast iron, and not every modern woman will like this. If you are ready to put up with minor inconveniences, then this literally fabulous unit will be able to thank the owner not only with warmth and delicious food, but also with healthy sleep, as well as wonderful healing procedures.

See also a step-by-step guide to building a Dutch oven with your own hands:.

Device and design features

Built according to all the canons, the furnace has many structural elements.

Schematic representation of the main parts of a Russian stove

Sub-bake. The recess at the base of the stove is intended for storing and drying firewood. Today, many owners refuse the oven to simplify and reduce the cost of the design and do it completely in vain. It is impossible to find a more convenient and practical place for fuel.
A stove is a cold niche for storing dishes.
The hearth is a flat horizontal surface in front of the crucible. Here you can leave food pulled from the fireplace so that it remains hot for a long time. There are designs of stoves in which a hob is installed in this place.
Under or flank - the bottom of the furnace (cooking chamber) located at a slight slope to the hearth. Deviation from the horizontal towards the outlet makes it easy to move heavy cast iron.
The crucible is a space inside the furnace that simultaneously serves as a firebox and a cooking chamber. As in the case of the finial, the ceiling of the furnace has a slope towards the exit. This allows you to trap hot gases under the roof, so they have time to warm up the array of the heating device. Between the hearth and the hearth there is a bend, or a bend, a kind of transition zone between the horizontal sections of the furnace with different temperatures.
Overtrumpeting is the same as hailo. In a Russian stove, this is a smoke collector located above the hearth. Behind it begins a chimney.
A samovar (also known as a dushnik) is a narrow channel leading directly into the chimney, which is intended to connect the samovar pipe. Modern stoves do not have a choke.
Vertical flue above the pole
A view is a hatch that completely blocks the chimney. Through the view window there is access to valve 10, which regulates the draft in the furnace.
Chimney valve.
Bed.

Another illustration clearly shows the structure of the internal chambers of the structure. The stove, which can be seen in the lower picture, is intended for drying fruits, mushrooms and berries. As you can see, the thickness of the walls between the niche and the furnace is no more than a brick, which actually turns the stove into a kind of modern oven of Swedish wood-burning heat generators.

The structure of the internal space of a Russian stove

The combustion unit, which is a kind of recuperator, has a huge impact on the performance of the heating device: the incoming air flow is heated by flue gases. Mixing does not occur due to different densities of gases, and experiments have shown the absence of turbulence even at the interface between two gas flows. To avoid turbulence, the surfaces of the heel and fold are made as smooth as possible. Otherwise, turbulence will carry away some of the oxygen, which will increase the gas-generating ability of the heating device.

The oxygen entering the furnace supports intense combustion of the fuel. In this case, the heated gases rush to the roof of the furnace. Thanks to its inclination towards the mouth and a small threshold, which prevents the free escape of gases to the high, two stable zones of gas circulation are created. It is in them that the whole power of the Russian stove lies, but to form vortices you must strictly adhere to the basic dimensions.

In addition, the rotating flows retain unburned particles in the high-temperature flame zone for a long time, thereby increasing the completeness of fuel combustion. The heated roof and walls of the cooking chamber actively radiate energy in the infrared range, uniformly heating what is being cooked in the crucible. As for the crimp, it not only acts as a thermal economizer, but also allows you to keep food hot all day. To do this, it is enough to block the chimney and close the mouth with a wooden damper.

Thanks to the smoke circulation features, the stove remains warm for a long time

As you can see, the smoke circulation of a Russian stove has a minimal temperature gradient. The constancy of the temperature of the heated gases, as well as their constant circulation in the working area, leads to the fact that the smallest particles of fuel burn in the crucible without any residue. And here another important advantage of such a simple but carefully thought-out design appears. The fact is that ash is, of course, present in the heating unit, but with regards to soot and soot, they practically do not settle on the walls of the stove - you will only have to clean it a few times in its entire life.

Our website contains a large number of instructions for self-installation of stoves of various designs and complexity, including the Kuznetsov stove:.

Dimensions, drawings and orders

There are many options for Russian stoves. We present drawings of some of them as an example.

Photo gallery: examples of drawings and procedures

Russian stove: drawings and orders Drawing of a Russian stove with bottom heating
Drawing of a Russian stove with a hob
Drawing of a Russian stove with a stove bench

Today we will not dwell on simple designs. Our goal is to build a practical and functional unit with a hob and a water heating tank that will satisfy any owner of a country home. Below you can see its drawings and procedures, and in the future we will provide complete instructions for making the stove, arranging the chimney and the procedure for putting the unit into operation.

Drawings and instructions for a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Drawing of an improved Russian stove Drawing and ordering
Order of the Russian stove: 1 - 24 row Order: 25 - 31 row Finished oven

Tools and materials

Laying a Russian stove: step-by-step instructions

Appearance of the future furnace

First of all, let me give you some tips that will make the work easier and the constructed structure safer.

Use only high-quality bricks that have no cracks in the body.
When filling the seams, there should be no voids or gaps inside, and their thickness should be within 5–8 cm. Remember that coating the walls with clay to make them airtight is not the best option, since this reduces thermal conductivity.
Before laying the brick, it is recommended to soak it - in this case, it will not draw liquid from the mortar.

Brick is soaked before laying for another reason. During drying, it will be dehydrated simultaneously with the solution, which will contribute to better adhesion and strengthening of the walls.

In order for the design to be neat, the excess clay squeezed out of the seams must be immediately picked up, preventing it from drying out. The walls of the furnace can be laid out in brick or half a brick, while the internal chambers can be half or even a quarter of its size. Experienced craftsmen most often make medium-sized stoves with a thickness of up to 15 cm, arguing that this way it warms up faster and does not require additional fuel for preliminary combustion.

It is convenient to carry out the laying, focusing on the order. To do this, the diagram is printed on separate sheets of paper in order to follow the selected instructions during the work process.

The first row is laid out with special care, because it determines the geometric correspondence and evenness of the structure. For novice stove makers, it is better to draw the contours of the stove with chalk on the base or first do a dry dry installation. When working, adhere to the following order: first lay out the outer perimeter of the structure, and then fill it according to the order diagram.
The laying of the 1st row is carried out continuously
The second row begins to form the walls, cleaning channels and the bottom of the ash pan.
The masonry of the 2nd row begins to form the internal chambers
Before starting the third row, install the blower door and the cleaning chamber hatch. They can be secured securely in the masonry using pieces of steel wire, which are screwed to the door frames at one end and placed in the brick joint at the other.
Starting with the 3rd row, install cast iron doors

To prevent the junction points of the stove cast iron from cracking during operation, the metal elements can be wrapped with asbestos cord or the gaps can be sealed using a basalt sealant.
The fourth row closes the cavities located near the walls and forms the overlap of the bottom channel.
Laying the 4th row
Starting from the fifth row, grates are installed and the firebox begins to form. Often, fireclay bricks cut into two parts are used for these purposes. At the same level, the door of the small fuel chamber is mounted, which is located below the bottom channel.
5th row: installation of the grate and combustion door
On the sixth row, a firebox is laid out and a water heater is installed.
Installation of a water heating tank in row 6
Seventh row. Installation of grate bars for the small fuel chamber and large combustion door. The right wall is pulled together with a metal strip, which is laid in the seam and secured to the outer edges of the bricks with vertical hooks. Like the side surfaces of the firebox, its back wall is laid out dry. In this case, the parts of the firebox adjacent to the outer walls are made with gaps to improve heat transfer.
Features of the 7th row masonry
The eighth and ninth rows continue to expand the internal channels, and also secure the small fire door.
Laying the 8th and 9th rows
In the tenth row, the arches of both fireboxes are connected, simultaneously laying out the bottom of the furnace. In this case, the openings of the channels located at the rear wall must be open. Here, several bricks cover the water tank.
The 10th row forms the bottom of the crucible
On the 11th row, the base for the hob is prepared, for which a steel corner is attached above the fire doors. In addition, a grate is installed in the rear of the large firebox.
11th row: installation of the hob
The 12th and 13th rows form the base of the chimney and the walls of the cooking chamber (crucible). A valve is also installed here, which will block the channel between the main chamber and the chimney.
12th and 13th row
In the 14th row, they begin to arrange a side passage from the furnace to the smoke channel, build up the walls of the cooking chamber and make a hole for the valve.
14th row: we form a channel for the removal of combustion products
From the 15th row they begin to narrow the masonry to cover the furnace and continue to force out the smoke channel.
In the 15th row they begin to form the base of the crucible arch
On the 16th row, the side walls of the furnace are fastened with metal strips in the same way as was done with the right side of the unit in the seventh row.
Features of masonry of the 16th row
17th row. Place a second metal corner over the niche of the hob and arrange the side bases of the roof of the hob.
Work carried out when laying the 17th row
On the 18th row, a domed template is installed and the arched vault of the furnace is laid out.
Arched vault of the 18th row
In the 19th row, a metal strip is used to strengthen the wall at the mouth of the furnace. They continue to build up the side walls, which are needed to hold the backfill.
Fastening the metal strip in the 19th row
20th row. The height of the walls is increased by one more brick, after which the vault is covered with sand for better thermal insulation.
After laying the 20th row, the outer side of the furnace roof is covered with sand.
The 21st row forms the overlap of the furnace. This is where the overpipe begins to narrow.
21st row: overlap covering the furnace filling
To reduce the gas flow rate, a metal sheet with a cut out round opening is installed in the 22nd row. Continue to reduce the cross-section of the overtube.
Features of the construction of the furnace in the 22nd row
In the 23rd row, a cleaning door is installed in the smoke channel and the outlet channel is expanded.
The last rows of the stove combine the overpipe with the chimney

After this, the work on constructing the furnace is considered completed. All that remains is to build a chimney, after which it will be possible to carry out a test fire.

Chimney installation

The chimney required for the operation of a Russian stove is absolutely no different from the chimney of any stationary solid fuel unit, be it a “Dutch”, “Swedish” or some new-fangled bell-type stove, calculated using computer modeling. The design and arrangement of the chimney can be taken from the drawing below.

Chimney device for a Russian stove with orders

The design and installation location of the pipe for removing combustion products must comply with the standards of the current SNiP.
At the point of transition from the ceiling to the attic, the pipe should thicken.
The lower part of the chimney is placed on the same solution as the stove.
The internal cross-section of the smoke duct must correspond to the power of the heating device.
Above the roof, the chimney is built using a mortar with the addition of cement.
The places where the pipe passes through the ceilings are insulated using non-flammable and waterproofing materials.

During work, the geometry of the structure and the deviation from the vertical are constantly monitored using a level or plumb line.

Methods for finishing Russian stoves

Decorating a Russian stove is done in several ways:

jointing of brickwork;
plastering;
finishing with ceramic tiles or tiles.

Joining on brickwork is the simplest method, which is quite good for modern interiors. The main thing is that this method of decoration should be planned from the very beginning, since the aesthetics of the structure directly depends on the quality of the material and the neatness of the masonry. As a rule, facing bricks with smooth side walls are used for laying external walls.

If the goal is to build a Russian stove according to ancient canons, then it must be plastered with a special clay mortar with the addition of chaff. After drying, the outer surfaces are covered with a solution of white clay in water. Such whitewashing is an environmentally friendly coating that is safe for others. In addition, thanks to it, the basis is prepared for the final finishing - painting. The patterns that cover the walls of the stove can repeat a national ornament or scenes from fairy tales, represent floral curls, stylization of Gzhel, Khokhloma, etc. - it all depends on the created mood and preferences of the owner. A wide selection of plaster mixtures allows you to replace the old composition with a more modern “bark beetle” or “lamb beetle”.

For finishing with ceramic tiles, only heat-resistant types of tiles are used - terracotta, majolica, heat-resistant clinker or porcelain stoneware. In addition, Russian stoves are often lined with tiles. Note that although decorating with ceramic tiles is one of the most beautiful and practical methods of finishing, after it the arrogance and luxury of the “Dutch” begins to be visible in the design, and not everyone will like this.

How to decorate a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Decorating with painted ceramic tiles The tiles can be laid not continuous, but in wide decorative stripes
Finishing with tiles A stove lined with tiles often begins to resemble a stylish “Dutch” The traditional finishing method is whitewashing Painting is a traditional way of finishing a Russian stove

If you plan not to embroider the masonry, but to cover it with ceramic tiles or plaster, then be sure to attach a metal mesh to the surface of the walls. Otherwise, the decorative finish will fall off when the structure heats up.

The procedure for putting the heating device into operation

Having built a stove, in no case should you rush to try its heating capabilities to their full potential. It must be handled with care and precision, since with intense heating, the walls located closer to the hearth will dry out much faster than distant surfaces. The difference in thermal expansion of wet and dry materials is quite significant, so there is a danger of cracks appearing at the boundaries of the seams. To avoid trouble, all oven openings are opened and dried under natural conditions for two weeks.

Due to the need for long-term drying of the furnace, it is recommended to begin its construction in the warm season.

To speed up the process of removing moisture or when drying a structure in unfavorable weather conditions, a fan heater or a powerful electric lamp can be placed in the furnace and firebox. In this case, the oven doors are closed and the channels are left open.

The fireplace is lit only after the walls have completely dried.

The furnace is fired only after the pre-drying period has been completed.. To do this, during the first two days, no more than 3–4 kg of firewood is placed in the unit, adding 1 kg of fuel every day for a decade. The readiness of the furnace for full operation is judged by the absence of condensation on the internal surfaces of metal parts. The heating device is tested several times at half power, after which the operation of the unit is checked at maximum mode. During “break-in”, be sure to inspect the surfaces of the walls for the appearance of cracks and their possible increase. The defects that appear are repaired only after the stove has been heated at full strength several times.

After a long period of inactivity, be sure to check all visible surfaces for tightness of seams. Any cracks that appear must be repaired with clay mortar.
Before each fire, check for draft. If smoke from the furnace enters the room, the stove must not be used under any circumstances. Perhaps one of the valves is closed or the chimney needs to be cleaned.
You can close the view only after the firewood has completely burned out.
It is recommended to remove soot from the internal surfaces of the stove at the beginning of each season. In fact, the stove gets dirty very little and after construction it will not require cleaning for several years. However, it all depends on the smokiness and quality of the fuel used.

Video: creating a Russian brick oven with your own hands

A correctly and carefully built Russian stove will not only provide the room with comfortable warmth, but will also create a unique original style, so dear and close that any guest will be forever fascinated and captivated by the interior of your home. If you also use the heating device for cooking, you will be able to fully experience the taste and aroma of real Russian pies, daily cabbage soup or aromatic stewed porridge.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Today, good old stoves are rarely found in private homes, since there are now many other modern systems for heating and cooking.

Fireplaces have become the most popular these days. They are in no way inferior in functionality to simple stoves, but at the same time have a stylish and beautiful appearance.

You can place a fireplace in absolutely any room - in the bedroom, living room or hall. A fireplace definitely adds coziness to the room and makes the atmosphere very soulful, and the heat from the fireplace can easily warm the whole house.

photos

Methods

There are several options for making a fireplace from a stove. The simplest and, perhaps, most economical way is to buy a ready-made metal fireplace; in the future, you will only need to decorate it beautifully. However, this is still not the best option.

Often, older houses already have a classic Russian stove. It may no longer be used for its intended purpose. However, from this stove you can create a chic fireplace with your own hands. The most basic thing that will need to be done is to expand the firebox, install doors and replace the chimney pipe.

What you need to take into account when preparing to remodel the furnace:

Assess the condition of the stove and chimney - this directly affects the further safety of their use. In cross-section, the chimney should be larger than the length of one brick. Good traffic flow must also be ensured so that the chimney draft is large; this is an important condition for the operation of the fireplace. In most cases, the old chimney must be dismantled and a new one installed in its place.
The size of the firebox of a standard stove is very small; it will not be enough for a fireplace, which means it will need to be enlarged. Additionally, you can also install glass doors to be able to cover the firebox. However, this is not necessary.
Carefully evaluate the body of the structure - it must certainly be intact, without cracks or deformations, without fallen bricks. Otherwise you will have to disassemble it.

Constructions

There are several options for converting old stoves (Russian stove, "potbelly stove") into a fireplace, all of them depend on the original technical condition of the structure.

One of the easiest options is to update and expand the firebox to the required size, as well as install a glass “Finnish” door. This option is attractive for its simplicity, since there is no need to make fundamental changes to the design, just clean the stove properly. If you add a glass door and properly decorate the existing stove, it will look as similar as possible to a fireplace.

The most expensive and time-consuming modification of a stove into a fireplace is the complete dismantling of the existing structure and the creation of a new one. The stove must be completely dismantled and, if necessary, new sand must be added to the base. Next, make a roofing felt waterproofing flooring and create a new masonry according to one of the existing schemes.

How to build

Converting a stove into a decorative fireplace is not very difficult. This is required mainly in cases where a conventional stove is already installed in the house, which is no longer used. You won’t need to invest a lot of effort and money to create a modern, stylish fireplace out of an ordinary stove that can heat your home and, in addition, bring comfort to it.

Often old stoves are located in houses in the kitchen or in the central room. The stove takes up little space, but the appearance leaves much to be desired.

To convert the stove into a modern and stylish fireplace, you will need the following materials: bricks, cement, mortar for masonry, a chimney pipe (to replace the old one), facing tiles, a glass door, as well as tools for minor repairs, which every owner will certainly have . Next, you will need to draw up a personal drawing of the fireplace you are creating. You should also definitely inspect the stove, determine the quality of the body and the condition of the foundation. If all this is in excellent condition, you can continue working.

Another important requirement is that there must be a small gap between the base for the stove and the foundation of the house - about twenty-five centimeters; it must be completely covered with sand.

The firebox should be about fifty centimeters deep, and the body inside the stove should consist of refractory bricks.