Do-it-yourself Swedish oven with a stove bench. Stove with a stove bench: order, diagram, how to assemble heating, cooking and fireplace models with your own hands How a stove with a stove stove works

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Today, a large number of stoves have been created with a variety of functions and features. But against the background of bathhouse, heating or cooking stoves, a special type stands out - a stove with a stove bench. Most people strongly associate such a stove with the ancient Russian way of life. A do-it-yourself stove stove is built to heat the house and relax comfortably in the warmth.

Useful properties of stoves with a stove bench

A stove equipped with a stove bench is considered very healthy. It is not for nothing that they were previously used as a passive method of treating a wide variety of diseases. The main medicines at that time were decoctions and baths, but it was the warm stove that had to consolidate success. Having slept several nights in a row on such a stove, one could get rid of a cold or joint pain, and even serious illnesses often receded, unable to overcome the saving warmth. A stove with a stove bench is still in demand, especially among owners of country houses.

Modern heating stove with stove bench

If someone in those days had a heating and cooking stove with a stove bench, then its owner enjoyed great respect among people. This is natural, because such a stove greatly simplified the performance of daily household work and provided the house with heat, thereby creating the most comfortable living conditions.

Today there are many variations of bench stoves. The emergence of high technologies and complex household appliances in every home has led to the fact that people were able to shift their worries to them and finally take care of their health. A stove with a stove bench helps to take care of health, bringing many benefits to its owner. The beneficial properties of such a stove are due to the fact that the brick from which it is made accumulates heat very well, and then returns it evenly and for a long time.

There are practically no analogues to bench stoves, and existing devices are too expensive and high-tech, and only qualified specialists can operate them.

Do-it-yourself stove with a stove bench

Building a stove with a stove bench with your own hands is a fairly simple process that will require a minimum of knowledge and experience in performing construction work. In addition, the pleasure that such a design can bring completely outweighs any work associated with the construction of the stove.

You should start building a stove by preparing tools and materials. Their nomenclature has long been known and is no different from the means required to build a conventional brick stove, so the issue of choosing clay or constructing a foundation will not be covered here. If you wish, you can refer to previous articles that describe these procedures. The photo schematically shows the algorithm for selecting tools and materials.

The most important thing a builder can do when building a stove is to study the order diagram and keep it at hand at all times in order to complete all work in accordance with the instructions. Qualified stove makers are able to instantly figure out the order, and often keep the most common patterns in their heads, but beginners in this business will have a much more difficult time, since they will need to check each step with the instructions.

To understand how to build a stove, remember the names of all its elements and the order of work, you should pay attention to the algorithm that will be described below. In addition, if necessary, you can look at the photo, which shows in detail and clearly the procedure for building a stove-bed.

As initial data, we take the fact that the foundation is already ready, the waterproofing layer has been laid, and all building materials and tools are available.

Then you can proceed directly to building the furnace:

1. First, trenches are laid out - brick walls that occupy two parallel rows of the base of the stove. They need to be laid at a small interval. It is advisable to use a level to create even masonry. This will prolong the time spent, but will pay off in the future.
2. The second row is also occupied by trenches. It is very important to observe the correct brick dressing. When installing the ash pan, you must follow the rules for its installation.
3. When laying the third row, you can install the blower door. It is necessary to maintain a small gap between the door itself and the masonry to prevent destruction of the stove when the metal is heated.
4. The fourth row is identical to the third. Seam dressing must be observed on all rows. At this stage, the top of the door is compared to the level of the brick.
5. The bricks of the fifth row cover the frame of the blower door. This item provides for the installation of cleaning doors. The laying of horizontal channels and the formation of the fuel section begins. In addition, at the same stage, the lining is installed.
6. The sixth row is performed in the same way as the fifth. The lining is not yet finished, so work on its installation should continue. The grate will be laid on the sixth row.
   
   
   
7. When laying the seventh row, the doors are closed for cleaning. The lining continues. Blind, vertical channels are being laid. The firebox door is also installed.
8. The eighth row is identical to the previous one, but not completely: at this stage the formation of the lowering and lifting channels begins.
9. The masonry of the ninth row exactly repeats the masonry of the eighth. Read also: "".
10. When laying the tenth row, the upper part of the firebox door is compared with the level of the brick. Now you can begin constructing the hail (the transition between the firebox and the chimney) and the suction channel.
11. Laying the eleventh row will complete the closing of the combustion chamber door. When creating this row, it is necessary to create four channels for suction. The first channel should create a passage between the firebox and the lifting channel, and two more channels should separate the blind chambers. The firebox hilo is formed in this row, so the last channel will connect the hilo with the blind side channel.
12. The formation of the heil and the creation of the lining continues. The suction channels in this row are completely blocked. The installation of blind channels is completed. The tapering lining creates a dome. At this stage, its construction is nearing completion, and the furnace can be shut off.
13. The thirteenth row of masonry covers the caps and firebox, and the latter will be covered by bricks that complete the lining.
14. When laying the fourteenth row, it is important to follow the same rules as for all previous ones. The covering is not yet complete. This point also includes the beginning of creating a “sand” fence.
15. In the fifteenth row, the creation of a vertical outlet channel and the laying of the side continues. This fence can later become a place for backfilling purified and sifted sand, which, when heated, has an incredible healing effect. Sand can be added if desired, but the oven should be prepared for this in advance.
16. From the sixteenth to the twentieth row, a vertical chimney and a protective partition are installed. All bricks must be level and tied very precisely.
17. When laying the twenty-first row, a furnace valve is built into the outlet channel.
18. The laying of the twenty-second row is final. At this stage, the valve of the outlet channel is closed and the protective partition is completely formed.
19. A stove chimney is installed from the twenty-third row. This aspect of the construction of the furnace was discussed earlier, so there is no need for a detailed description. To understand what the finished structure looks like, you can look at the photo.

Stove stove - coziness and comfort

Such a stove, built with your own hands, will not only warm all the residents of the house, but will also help improve their health if such a need arises (read also: " "). The presented stove model is one of the simplest, and its installation does not require much effort. Of course, you can use others instead of this scheme, but the construction of a complex structure should be carried out by an experienced stove maker, and this option is unacceptable for beginners. The same Swedish stove with a stove bench would cost much more, and it would take longer to build, since its design includes an oven and a hob (more details: " ").

The characteristics of the presented stove are very similar to real ancient Russian stoves (read: ""). The beneficial effect of a stove with a stove bench on the human body is undeniable: sleeping or resting on such a stove allows you to put your shaky health in order. In addition, the pleasure received from a warm stove will lift your spirits, especially in winter, when warmth is especially needed. A heating stove with a stove bench should become an integral element of any home, because only a real fire can completely warm up a cold room. Read also: ".

Do-it-yourself finished oven stoves are shown in the video:

Dear customers, I would like to sort out the issue of the efficiency of Russian stoves with a stove bench and offer the most effective solutions in the field of home heating. I would like to structure this article according to the principle: problem + solution. In total, there are 3 main problem areas of Russian stoves and stoves with stove benches - for each problem area I will offer a solution. Some of the solutions were not invented by me, but there are also my personal ideas. You can also place an order for the laying of a Russian stove with a stove bench and stove in Moscow and the Moscow region

Problem No. 1: It takes a lot of time to light a Russian stove with a stove bench

A little history and technical facts: We know a lot from history that in Rus' such a stove was used everywhere: it will heat the house, and you can cook food in it and sleep on a warm stove bench. Many modern people are attracted by contact with traditions.

However, the principle Russian brick stove masonry pretty unpretentious. Imagine a fireplace: you throw wood into the fireplace, the smoke immediately flies into the chimney - you sit and warm yourself by an open fire, the chimney heats up a little from the hot flue gases. This is what it looks like Russian stove with a stove bench, stove and bottom heating. This is my work, no. 164. You can see the current price in the gallery of works.

The principle of ancient Russian heating buildings is similar to fireplaces - you throw a bunch of wood into the firebox, and the flue gases immediately evaporate into the chimney. And to heat this whole colossus you will need a lot of wood, and most importantly time. As a result, there are large heat losses. In this version, the crucible is both a firebox and an oven. However, the entire part of the Russian stove that is below the furnace will heat up very slowly.

Since the main firebox of our Russian stove with a stove bench is at a height of 70-90 cm, then the smoke will rush straight up. On some sites I have seen designs and arrangements for stoves that supposedly create channels through which smoke is diverted down to heat the bottom of the stove. This is possible in theory, but in practice the smoke will constantly try to rush upward, resulting in a constantly smoking stove.

Note:
The physics of removing flue gases from any furnace is quite simple: the movement of smoke must be strictly vertical.

Solution to problem #1: Russian stove with firebox and stove bench

How to achieve high efficiency for a Russian stove with a stove bench in Moscow and the Moscow region?

It's quite simple. I'm putting Russian stoves with heating. What is flooding? Look at the photo of my recent project: at the bottom of the Russian stove there is an additional firebox. Its purpose is to force flue gases along the bottom of the furnace. The smoke will tend upward, therefore, along the path of its movement, hot air will be able to heat the entire bottom of the stove structure. The next photo is my work, Russian stove with a stove bench and bottom heating№ 160.

Insanely interesting work, in my opinion. We spent several weeks designing this problem with the customer - a family of 4 people, and the requirement was that the bed could accommodate the whole family. This is what happened in the end.

The fact is that heat always accumulates under the ceiling, no matter how hard we heat the stove, hot air will rise upward. I don't know, to be honest, how people slept on Russian stoves in ancient Rus', because sleeping there for a long time is impossible! I can’t stand it for more than an hour, it’s very stuffy and hot... Although, of course, there were much fewer amenities in Rus' than now... So, I offered the modern family a solution that they really liked - to build an additional bed, but not on level classic Russian stove bench, and lower. This made it possible to expand the area of ​​the warm bed, and even allows you to sleep in the lower part.

The miracle of a country house is that its comfort is due to the special atmosphere of the smell of wood and the crackling of wood in the stove. That is why many owners of country houses invite craftsmen to install a stove in their homes. The cost of such work often exceeds 50 thousand rubles. This is quite a lot of money. At the same time, laying out a stove with your own hands is a task quite within the capabilities of many. It’s important to just read a couple of publications that cover this topic in detail and a little experience and knowledge of little oven tricks, which you can read about on our website.

Particularly popular in the past were stoves with a stove bench, on which the dry heat of the stove draws out all the bad things from a person. This is exactly the kind of stove we will build today.

Step 1 – prepare the material and workplace

A special feature of any stove is that it is made of high standard ceramic bricks (not lower than M-250). For our furnace we will need 2500 of them. It is better to take cast iron, solid cast fittings (one of the most reliable is the Finnish brand CVT). To mix the solution, we use ready-made oven mixture, packaged in bags, which can be bought at any hardware store.
Lining a stove with your own hands is a rather messy process. Therefore, when preparing a workplace, we fence off the work site from the rest of the house with plastic film.

All passages to the place where the stove is placed are fenced off with film.

Before laying the furnace, it is necessary to pour a reliable foundation. The total mass of the furnace is about 10 tons. This is a serious load on the ground. Especially if the soil in your area is clayey, then it is obvious that seasonal fluctuations will be very significant. Usually the foundation is poured in proportion to the thickness - 1 ton of the furnace - corresponds to 5 cm of reinforced concrete pad. In this case, the area of ​​the furnace foundation should be 15% larger than the main area of ​​the furnace base.

The foundation for the stove is poured in such a way that the upper edge of the foundation is 5-6 cm below the floor level. Before laying the stove, it is necessary for the foundation to stand for at least two weeks, ideally if it is set for at least a month.

Before laying the stove, it is necessary to lay out waterproofing to prevent groundwater from rising into the body of the stove.

Step 2: laying the base of the oven

Laying the foundation of the furnace is the most crucial moment. You need to lay the foundation so that there is a rectangle at the base of the oven. The only way to make it like this is to make sure that the diagonals of this figure are the same.

The distance of the masonry from the wall of the house must be at least 15 cm. Therefore, when laying the foundation, be sure to take this fact into account.

The stove order should always be at hand and in a visible place, so attach it so that it is near your workplace.

Step 3 - Laying the furnace masonry

This stove assumes such an internal structure that the place where there will be space for the stove will be heated by warm air flows from the stove. The stove will have a firebox with a hob, a heating stove, an oven and a place for stove tools. In addition, the furnace will have an additional air duct - “letnik”. Which will provide additional air flow in the warm season, to improve ignition of the stove and increase draft. On the third row we lay the vent of the fireboxes.

The furnace ducts will provide the fireboxes with a reliable flow of air, and most of them pass under the bench area.

These air ducts under the bed will run according to the “snake” principle. The longer the duct, the higher its heat transfer. The air sucked into the hatch of the first row passes along the rear wall of the furnace and heats up, rises higher and once again passes along the rear wall of the furnace firebox and subsequently gives off its heat to the floor bricks, which play the role of a stove bench.

An example of a “correct” solution is that the squeezed out solution hangs down, but does not fall to the floor. There is no need to cut it right away, it should “wither,” as stove makers say, and only then, after about 5-10 hours, it can be cut off with a trowel or spatula. Who works with what?

Please note that the air duct is divided into two sleeves. This way the bed will warm up better. In the future, it will be united again and taken to the hatch of the upper rows.

We are raising eight rows of masonry, on the ninth it will be necessary to make an overlap over the fireboxes and on the stove bench.

Let's cover the bed. To do this, we carry out three rows of masonry “poke” by combining both air ducts and making the air duct outlet into a hatch on the rear wall. We make all the locks for creating jumpers over the view and firebox in the form of a wedge lock.”

The best assistant for a stove maker is the “rule”. The two-meter “rule” is made from a board with perfectly parallel edges. It is placed on its edge, and a building level is installed on it, and according to its readings, the horizontalness of the furnace masonry is judged.

As soon as the solution “dries,” we cut it off and do a finishing touch.

In order not to damage the masonry of the bed during work, we cover it with boards. These will be used as “scaffolding” to work on the top rows.

We raise the rows of the oven for the oven and the hob casing.

Please note that the hob must be fenced off from the wall with brickwork half a brick thick.

On each row of masonry we check the “horizontalness” of the structure.

We lift the masonry above the casing of the hob and oven. Above the oven you can make a jumper using the wedge lock method, but above the hob casing the span is almost one and a half meters, so the only way out here is to put a metal corner. More precisely, three corners. Laying over the lintel should only be done using the “poke” method.

We add a little decorativeness to the masonry - we put up shelves.

Pay attention to the three hatches for the air ducts. The “letnik” at the bottom fuels the combustion of the firebox, and in the upper rows it provides stronger convection currents of warm air, which are used to heat the house.

In the upper common rows, we need to combine the rows of chimneys together so that one chimney sleeve goes into the chimney. This can be done in three rows of masonry. Therefore, the upper casing is made of at least five rows of masonry - the first is the base, the second is the third - combining the sleeves, the fifth is the overlap. And only then we lay the base of the pipe. We lay the pipe according to the masonry formula - two and a half by two bricks. This will create a chimney opening of 300 sq.cm. When passing through a wooden ceiling, the size of the fire-prevention wiring must be at least 75*75 cm.

We use basalt slabs 50 mm thick as thermal insulation. Typically, the safe insulation thickness should be 100 mm. Thermal insulation sheets must be laid in a checkerboard pattern so that there is no “exact angle”, but a “step” lock.

It’s better to put not a standard view, but a secret one. Such views “cry” less soot onto the outer part of the masonry. The only subtlety of installing such a view is that it cannot be used without special seals and heat-resistant sealants. It is best to use a basalt cord 8 mm thick as a seal. At first, the view shutter will move with great difficulty - this is normal! It takes time for the sealant to coke and for the basalt cord to set.

We install the oven fittings - doors on the firebox, on the ash pan and in the oven. The peculiarity of this installation method is that all the mounting sockets are made in the form of grooves; fittings are placed in them and secured to metal dowels.

The fittings are installed. Pay attention to the white dowel heads; there should be at least two of them on each side of the door.

How to line a stove with your own hands. Step 4. Install the pipe.

Before starting work on the construction of the pipe, it is necessary to prepare a workplace - stove makers call it a “nest”. This is a horizontal platform onto which the brick rises.

A safe place to work is created. Exactly the amount of brick that is required to erect the pipe should rise to the roof. In our case - 200 pieces. Therefore, it is necessary to lay out the layers in such a way that the load on the roof becomes uniform.

The “nest” is ready, you can start working.

We lay the pipes with silicate bricks; they better withstand temperature changes and the effects of precipitation. At the same time, it is better adapted to the effects of an acidic environment, which is formed due to the interaction of smoke and condensation of water vapor on the walls of the chimney. To prevent sand-lime brick from standing out from the general background of the color scheme, I recommend painting it with facade acrylic paint, terracotta color.

The oven is ready, all you have to do is wait two weeks before testing the fire.

The article uses photographic materials from master stove maker A.G. Popov.

A Russian stove with a stove bench is a current attribute of private houses and country cottages. This is not only a useful, functional structure, but also a traditional element of home comfort and color, and interior design. An open fire in the hearth, like in a fireplace, will not hurt in case of an unexpected power outage or gas supply, and the lounger is used as an additional sleeping place.

Design of a Russian stove with a stove bench

A rustic Russian stove with a stove bench in its body has a recessed furnace (combustion chamber) with a blind hearth. In old villages it had a vaulted ceiling. In it, after the wood burned out, the high temperature remained for a long time, which made it possible to cook bread and pies, baked milk among the coals and other food.

Modern models differ from ancient stove designs, but all the functionality and architecture are the same. Similar structures are relevant for Russian, Ukrainian, Belarusian, Moldavian and Romanian rural houses. The diagram and description of the furnace design are represented by the following elements:

• guardianship - foundation;
• oven - space at the bottom of the oven for drying firewood and keeping animals (for example, chickens);
• furnace (firebox) – combustion (cooking) chamber;
• cheek – the front wall of the firebox;
  
• mouth (brow) – entrance to the crucible;
• vault – the upper arched part of the furnace;
• under – the bottom of the firebox (furnace) with a slight slope for the convenience of laying firewood and dishes with food;
• hearth - a platform in front of the mouth for dishes with food, instead of it there can be a cast-iron stove with an additional firebox - a flood chamber;
• substack – a cold stove for storing dishes;
• stoves (horns) - small niches in the body for increasing the heat-transfer surface and drying herbs, mushrooms, dishes, clothes, shoes, etc.;
• hailo - a hole tapering upward above the hearth for removing smoke.

An important part of the project is the chimney, consisting of a hog (an inclined or horizontal part, 1 m in size, located in the attic in front of the chimney) and a chimney.

Advantages and disadvantages



Using a stove you can heat several rooms at once

The main type of fuel for a Russian stove is wood, but it can also be heated with peat, dung, husks, straw, reeds and other organic materials. There are products in which it is permissible to use coke coal. It dissipates more heat, but creates a problem in the form of dust.

The dimensions of the oven can reach 150-200 cm by 150-200 cm and a height of 120-150 cm. The products have many advantages, for example:

• High level of efficiency. Bricks accumulate heat and retain it for a long time, so the room maintains a normal temperature when the stove is already heated.
• Long operational period. A properly laid out structure is safe in terms of fires.
  
• Heating of several rooms. If you correctly position a stove with a stove bench, you can heat the living spaces associated with it with minimal fuel consumption.
• Functionality. The product serves as a source of heat, a place for rest, cooking food and bread, drying food and clothing, storing firewood and utensils.

Like other solid fuel structures, in addition to the pros, there are also cons:

• large dimensions and weight;
• a separate foundation is required;
• high consumption of firewood;
• After summer inactivity, it takes a lot of time to heat up.

Since the chimney design does not provide for complex passages, the stove needs to be cleaned very rarely - approximately once a decade.

DIY Russian stove with a stove bench

It is quite difficult to build a real oven with your own hands, but based on the drawings and photographs it is still possible.

Making your own foundation



Foundation for a Russian stove in a wooden house

Since the unit is very heavy, a solid foundation is needed for it. It should extend beyond the dimensions of the bottom of the Russian stove with a stove bench by at least 10 cm.

1. Dig a hole below the freezing depth of the soil.
2. Make a sand and gravel cushion 20 cm high and compact it.
3. Build the formwork and lower it into the hole, aligning the top edge horizontally.
4. Place reinforcing bars (0.8-1.0 cm) in a grid pattern.
5. Prepare a solution of crushed stone, sand and cement in a ratio of 4/3/1.
   
6. Fill the base with overflow over the edge of the formwork.
7. Align horizontally with a rule, pierce frequently with a reinforcing rod to release air.
8. Reinforce the concrete by pouring a thin layer of dry cement and lightly rubbing it. It will take a month for the concrete to completely cure.

Moisten the base of the oven with water for the first few days to ensure even drying. It should not be adjacent to the foundation of the house - if the foundation of the house begins to move on heaving soils, the stove will “dance” with it, which will lead to its cracking. Otherwise, it will move independently along with its foundation, which will prevent destruction.

If the bases of the stove and the house are located close to each other (15 cm), provide a gap between them, fill them with sand and compact them.

Tools and materials



Building levels will come in handy when making a stove.

For work, prepare the following tools:

• shovel;
• plumb line;
• levels – construction and water, square, tape measure;
• rule;
• Master OK;
• an electric tile cutter for fitting bricks or a hammer-pick;
• mallet;
• jointing for façade seams
• container for mixing masonry mortar.

Place roofing felt in 2 layers on the finished base as waterproofing.

Red brick

From materials for the stove, purchase:

• 1500 pcs. red brick;
• 75 buckets of sand;
• 65 buckets of clay;
• samovar (13 x 13 cm);
• flap (43 x 34 cm);
• valve (30 x 15 cm).

For DIY masonry, use one of the simplest ones.

Ordering according to the diagram of a stove with a stove bench

Drawing and assembly procedure for the furnace

Step-by-step instructions consist of the following sequence of rows:

• 1 – place a continuous layer of bricks on the mortar that was used to fill the foundation.
• 2, 3, 4 - focusing on the diagram, lay out the well with bandaging of the seams, not forgetting about the space for the under-bed.
• 5.6 - the vault begins at this level, for which make formwork and prepare support heels for the bricks.
• 7, 8 – form the arch with ligation of the seams, close it on the 8th row.
• 9, 10 – place in 1 brick.
• 11 – the final one for the stove, fill the well so that there is a slight slope.
• 12 – form a hearth brick, fill the seams with sand and sand the entire surface.
  
• 13-16 – crucible. Lay the walls in ¾ bricks with bandaging seams, without tying the material; for locks, stitch the bricks at an angle of 45 degrees.
• 17 – the back wall and mouth are finished. Proceed with the construction of the frame for the roof of the cooking chamber - stitch down the heels, place the brick on its side.
• 18 – build a wall, fill the voids between the cooking chamber and the side surfaces with broken bricks, sand, and clay.
• 19 – cover the opening above the pole with a hemisphere.
• 20 – level the walls, reduce the hole above the pole. The overpipe should be without steps, so stitch the corners. Close the channel for the samovar.
• 21 – repeat row 19.
• 22 – finish the masonry above the vault, make a chamber for collecting soot.
• 23-32 – lay out the pipe, not forgetting about the valve.

The pipe should end with 2 bricks (26 x 26 cm).

Other oven options



In addition to the classic version, there are other modifications.

Russian stove with stove bench and stove

This model is the most popular because it allows you to heat the room and cook food in the usual way. According to the scheme of a Russian stove with a stove bench and a stove, the well is first laid, then the door and vent are mounted (rows 3, 4), the stove is installed on the 9th row. Everything else is according to the template.

Many fairy tales known to us from childhood feature a Russian stove, on which people relax, bake bread and cook food, and cure diseases of the respiratory system and musculoskeletal system. And these functions are not empty tales at all. Brick perfectly accumulates heat, distributing it evenly, so it is always warm and comfortable on the bed.

The Russian stove is beautiful and multifunctional. A stove bench (the horizontal covering of the top of a Russian stove) is not only good for relaxation, it is suitable for drying clothes, shoes, herbs and fruits, this becomes especially important in the fall, during the rainy season and stockpiling supplies for the winter.

Sometimes the bed (bed) was made with two tiers. Adults settled on the lower shelf, and children were placed on the upper one, where the warm air created an atmosphere of comfort. The oven itself produces incredibly tasty bread and various foods that are fried, boiled or simmered. Craftsmen adapted the Russian oven for firing clay toys and dishes. The most interesting use of large stoves is instead of a bathhouse. A vat of water was placed in the firebox, the bottom was thoroughly cleaned, lined with straw, and then hygienic procedures were performed.

Currently, stoves with a stove bench are built both in country houses and in cottages. But if earlier, in order to climb onto the stove bench, you had to use an extension ladder, now the design of the stove has been modernized and the stove bench is placed at a height of about one meter from the floor level. This is especially true in families with children and elderly people.

In modernized stove designs, beautiful fireplaces are installed. And the external finishing is done with decorative relief tiles - tiles, turning the stoves into a real treasure.

Let's summarize the pros and cons of a stove with a stove bench.

Advantages of the stove:

• — high efficiency;
• — good heat accumulation and uniform heat transfer;
• — ease of operation;
• - safety;
• - long service life - up to 30 years or more;
• - therapeutic effect;
• — when positioned correctly, a stove with a stove bench does not take up much space and allows you to heat several rooms at the same time;
• — the oven retains heat well after heating;
• — a stove with a stove bench fits aesthetically into any interior.
• Flaws:
• — masonry requires skill and professionalism;
• - solid fuel used in a Russian stove causes garbage to appear in the house, takes up space, and takes time to prepare it (cutting wood);
• — high fuel consumption;
• — in the classical design, only the upper and middle parts were warm, while the lower part of the stove remained cold, which required modernization and improvement of the stove model with a stove bench.

Dimensions of a classic oven: width about one and a half meters (two arshins); length - just over two meters (three arshins); the bed was placed at a height of approximately human height - approximately 180 centimeters (or two and a half arshins), the height of the hearth was approximately 45 cm, the height of the hearth was taken equal to the height of the table.

The stove was erected on a foundation made of small fragments of brick, stones, or less often on a log foundation (oak, pine and other species). The structure was erected at the same time as the house, but their foundations are by no means built together; isolation is a must. The oven itself was built either from baked bricks or from adobe (in those families where income did not allow the use of red brick for construction). The first “dymnitsa” (chimneys) were made of wood, then, due to the fire hazard of the material, wood was replaced with stone and brick.

Furnace design: crucible - firebox, place where fuel combustion occurs; pole and sub-rack - auxiliary table for dishes and a niche under it; under – the bottom of the firebox; hailo - a hole for releasing smoke into the hut; oven - space for storing firewood; mouth - a hole for storing firewood, closed with a flap.

Operating principle

Fuel placed in the front part of the combustion chamber produces heat when burned. To maintain the uniform combustion process, air enters through the lower plane. Hot flue gases go up into the chimney, bypassing the mouth, shield, hilo and a special threshold in front of the shield, designed to retain hot gases in the furnace. The walls of the structure heat up very slowly and cool down just as slowly.

DIY Russian stove with a stove bench

Before preparing materials and tools, we prepare drawings with order. The drawings should reflect the number of bricks, fittings, and dimensions.

Foundation

Foundation options:

— rubble concrete;

- brick;

— reinforced concrete from blocks 40x20x20;

- monolithic reinforced - the most common and simplest.

1. Digging a foundation pit. The size of the foundation is equal to the size of the stove base, plus 15-20 cm.

2. Place a filter pad. Place wet sand at the bottom of the pit. We compact it until it stops settling, periodically adding a new portion.

3. On a layer of sand we lay crushed stone, small pieces of broken bricks, again a thin layer of sand, moisten it, compact it. Next, pour another layer of crushed stone about ten centimeters thick and compact it.

4. Cover the crushed stone with two sheets of waterproofing.

5. Install the formwork. To do this, we install boards or plywood in the pit. At the same time, we leave a distance of 10 cm between the walls of the pit and the “box”. We insure the boards with supports and heavily moisten them so that the wood does not draw moisture out of the solution.

6. To lay the reinforcement, pour 4-5 cm of cement mortar into the formwork. While the cement sets, we tie the metal rods with wire strictly perpendicularly. The distance from the ends of the rods to the formwork is 1-2 cm.

7. Mix a solution of cement (1 part), sand (3 parts) and crushed stone (5 parts). Pour the solution in layers of 20 cm. We compact each of them using a vibropress or a manual tamper.

8. When the solution has set, cover it with waterproofing (tarpaulin, roofing felt, etc.).

Important! Be sure to check that the poured solution is horizontal. We use a building level. If the foundation is not poured correctly, the furnace structure may warp or crack.

Preparing materials

In order to build a classic stove you will need: about eighty buckets of cement, an appropriate amount of fine sand, clay, 1700 pieces of brick, a view with a half-door and a valve (the hole inside is 26x24 cm).

A step-by-step guide to building a Russian stove

1) We use refractory fireclay bricks. To achieve correct ligation (brick seams), we cut each brick by ¾ and install three such bricks in the corners of the masonry so that they exactly adjoin each other.

2) We are building the walls of the future guardianship.

3) In this row we use four ¾ bricks.

4) We build row number 4 from solid bricks. We break off the corners of those bricks that will be located at the base of the oven. These bricks will become the supports (heels) of the arch. We install a wooden form for laying the arch, then we lay the arch. We bevel the bricks, for accuracy using a thread stretched from the center of the formwork to the upper edge of the brick.

5) In this row, 20 bricks need to be beveled at an angle. This angle is necessary for the construction of the arch of the oven.

6) We make the walls on the sides one brick thick. We lay out the front and rear walls in two layers thick. We insert wooden semicircular formwork between the side walls. Using this form we lay out the roof of the oven. In the future, the formwork will need to be removed, so it must be collapsible.

Let's start laying the vault. We make the gaps between the bricks the same and fill them with mortar. For strength, you can insert a small piece of brick into the gaps.

7-8) We carry out construction, strictly observing dressing. We use plumb lines to check the verticality of the edges. In the eighth row we make the base for the cold stove.

9) We build a stove, a row of solid fireclay, on the corners of 1/2 and 3/4 parts.

10) We line up a row, pour a layer of fine sand between the walls.

11) We make a continuous masonry-slab on top of the sand backfill.

12) We are building for stoves and hearths. The fireclays that form under the stoves do not need to be fastened with cement. We fill the space (cracks) between them with sand. In the left corner of the hearth we make a furnace - a recess for hot coals.

13) We build the walls of the cooking chamber and the walls of the hearth. For the mouth of the furnace, we install a metal perforated arc between the furnace and the hearth. We insert a ductile iron or copper wire into the perforation, which is then embedded in the mortar between the brickwork.

14-16) We build rows of crucible and hearth.

17) We lay the supports for the roof of the furnace - 8 beveled fireclays. We strengthen wooden formwork on them. We lay out an arch of ½ bricks.

19-22) Lay out continuous rows (we are building a roof on which to build bed). In front of 22, we fill up the sand next to it. We leave an open opening above the pole.

23) We build up the walls. We make a hole on the right for easy cleaning of the stove from ash.

24-26) We close the over-pipe. We leave an opening for the chimney and views.

27-28) Install the half-door opposite the view.

29-30) We are still building the walls of the overpipe.

31) We make a number of additional bricks (3 pcs).

32) We overlap the overpipe and attach the valve to the right.

33) We are building a chimney. All rows are the same, six bricks each. We make a brick overlap near the ceiling.

After construction, we let the stove dry, check the draft and carry out external finishing.

Video - Russian stove with a stove bench