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Do-it-yourself papier mache is a great opportunity to create original things and crafts. DIY decor

Continuing the search interesting ideas for decoration, I came across an interesting article. It turns out that there is nothing easier than making decorative bricks yourself, which you can use to decorate an arch or lay out several rows at the bottom of the wall in the hallway.

To make paper bricks you will need just a few simple inexpensive components, a little free time and a great desire to create!
So, the author made bricks using the papier-mâché technique. The technology itself may have changed a little, but this is called an individual approach to the process.

Necessary materials for making paper bricks:

egg cartons or any cardboard,
Bustilat glue,
starch,
mosquito net,
the shape you would like the brick to be,
brushes, bucket and gloves.

The result is lumps that need to be broken down into smaller ones. To convey the texture of the stone, do not get too carried away. Otherwise, too small pieces will not give such an effect, but will create a smooth surface.
You need to make a paste from starch and pour it into the resulting paper pebbles. You need a little paste just to moisten them. Add bustilate there and mix the mass. We received ready-made “dough” for making bricks.

It’s time to send the mass into our molds, having previously covered them with polyethylene for ease of removal after drying. The thickness of the paper bricks is planned to be approximately 1 centimeter. This should be taken into account when placing it in the mold. When the required number of bricks is ready, we begin to decorate a section of the wall with them. We coat the back side with glue, or bustylate, and apply it to the wall.

We press it carefully, because such paper bricks are quite fragile material. Leave for a couple of days for final drying. The final stage will be painting. You can take any paint you like for interior work suitable color, close to natural stone. With a brush you need to carefully paint the entire surface.

After drying, we will give the bricks a more lively look; plain ones are too boring. Applying lightly with a dry brush, the lighter tone will add volume and liveliness.

Great idea, minimal cost and wonderful decor!

From this master class you will learn how to create an imitation with your own hands decorative stones. An interior decorated with such “stones” will be unusual and exclusive.

To make pebbles we will need: a sharp knife, a ruler, a pencil, Titanium glue, scissors, carton boxes or any other cardboard you have, egg cells, PVA glue.
I watched so many master classes, everything was wonderful, but they were all made raw, that is, from raw material. But this didn’t suit me at all, because there was nowhere to dry it.

We cut the cardboard box into long strips. You can do it with short ones, but with long ones it’s more convenient: then cut to length as needed...

I chose a width that matched my idea of the pebbles and left as little waste as possible from the box.

We tear the cells carelessly along the folds, leaving more relief.

I start gluing from the corners so as not to bother later. Lubricate it lightly, without being zealous, with Titan glue and, without straightening it, but, on the contrary, maintaining the volume, glue it to the prepared strip.

We glue the next piece with an overlap: this will make it more voluminous and close the voids.

So, it seems to be clearer...

Here... It becomes clearer.

I tried to cut off the scraps that were on the edge and glue the edge to the edge - then less fuss.

Here, the cardboard is being filled. The work is going quite quickly. By the end I was sculpting automatically. But I still tried to glue the edges more tightly.

Here it is - the treasured edge. I cut the piece at a right angle. And even if the corner is “flared,” you can safely bring the edges together, adjusting them to fit the cardboard: more bulges will be added. It is, after all, a “stone”, moreover, as if unprocessed.

We fill up the remaining empty spaces.

Here he is, my “savage”. Rude, uncouth...

I expanded this a little, it seems to be clearer.

Like this, on a quick fix, it turned out 6 x 22 cm.

Now a little reasoning. You need to straighten the surface of the savage a little. To do this you need to paste it over with something. Well, the glue, of course, is PVA. But why... I like these scarves. But at some point they ran out. And out of great laziness I decided to glue toilet paper. I’ll say right away - not very good: extra wrinkles and all that. Although, if you smooth it out a little more, it’s fine. Or maybe more...

Paper A-4. Here, I divided it into three parts. I didn't wait for it to dry. Only here it’s somehow not very clear.

That's better. A-4 - smoother surface, then my creation - from handkerchiefs, and finally - toilet paper.

Another difference is in gluing. Lubricate the surface of the pebble with PVA, apply the paper you like best, and then brush it on top with a brush covered in PVA so that everything sticks everywhere. But the surface of A-4 must be coated separately. Then it gets wet and also sticks well, highlighting the relief.

Well, we’ll clean it up too.

Do you see what the plate is like when viewed from the side? We carelessly glued the rag onto the same PVA: we missed it on the back side with a brush and glued it with it.

Stone blanks are obtained. Now we select the color and paint: first with a dark color, and then lighter and lighter. So the recesses visually deepen, and the bulges become more... appetizing, or what? But I was already painting on the wall. On top - varnish. I have acrylic semi-gloss. But if the paint is acrylic, then, in fact, you don’t need varnish, it doesn’t smear. But I like it better with varnish - the paint becomes brighter and more elegant.

Then you need to carefully place the “mortar” into the seams between the stones.... And before painting, I walked over the surface with a thin acrylic putty.

To be honest, I’m already completely tired of paper bricks and stones of all kinds of formats and variations..

Today I want to offer an unusual option for using papier-mâché in interior decoration. My nephew came up with the idea a few years ago, for which I am very grateful to him, especially because I was very, very pleased with the result.

So, liquid wallpaper...

What is liquid wallpaper?

Liquid wallpaper is a dry mixture that is diluted with water and applied to the surface of the walls with a spatula.

The main components of liquid wallpaper are cellulose and dry wallpaper glue. Sometimes the mixture contains viscose, silk flakes or quartz sand as a decorative additive, which significantly affects prices. In fact, liquid wallpaper is the same papier-mâché (for the rich))))) from the series “Just add water!”

Yes! Now I will be posting the SIX HUNDREDTH option for preparing a mass of papier-mâché, MY OWN, favorite and, of course, UNIQUE! If you are completely tired of recipe variations, you can scroll down the page and see the result, but for those who are still interested, I will tell you how my recipe was born.

At one time, in order to come to my recipe, I had to delve into such labyrinths of the Internet, where it is extremely difficult to find my way a second or even a third time.
As a basis, I took several ancient recipes that I found in ancient publications, including Russian ones. It turns out that at one time even kings thought about saving money by ordering craftsmen to decorate their throne rooms with beautiful papier-mâché. All the beauty, consisting of moldings, stucco, some furniture elements and many other furnishings in the Middle Ages, was 80 percent papier-mâché. Yes, not carved wood at all, as we used to think, not lime and plaster moldings, but papier-mâché! And I understand the masters of those times - after all, PM is a cheap, light, plastic and pliable material. Even the cold, walking through the echoing luxurious royal corridors in long winters, does not matter to him, he is only afraid of moisture, but, for that matter, moisture destroys plaster - over time, but still...
Further, I write only my feelings, impressions and conclusions, in general – a purely subjective opinion.

1. To prepare PM, I use exclusively egg racks. I don’t need any gray toilet paper for nothing, because even when soaked, it crumples up in the most ugly way and then consists of solid lumps, which for me personally is completely unacceptable, because I consider kneading these lumps no longer creativity, but a true test. However, I never feel sorry for the mass of toilet lumps if it is important to quickly increase volume.
2. I don’t use solid lattices; I tear off the edges around the perimeter and usually throw them away. The edges of the lattice are the supporting element - the roughest of the entire structure; no matter how you soak or knead them, they remain lumps and do not dissolve in the mass.
3. I don’t use (with extremely rare exceptions, only in particularly urgent cases) a blender, chopper, plunger (yes, some of them can be twisted anyway), I work exclusively with my hands and get a lot of pleasure from it!
4. Now quite a few people will open their mouths - I’m not squeezing out the paper pulp! I don’t have a goal to turn the mass into a material that doesn’t stick to your hands, like proper salted dough, I have another goal - to achieve smoothness, uniformity and airy tenderness of the mass. The great masters were never afraid to get their hands dirty; they sculpted their masterpieces, standing in creative mud up to their ears. It is we who, as a result of progress, have become white-handed... and turned out to be unnecessary, yes, yes, but who needs us? Previously, handicraft masters were worth their weight in gold, but now we have turned into their pathetic shadow, spending time doing “useless” activities and filling up shelves of relatives, friends and acquaintances with their creations

But, back to our sheep, in fact, I’m starting the Master Class:

We will need:

Egg racks
- hot water
- KMC wallpaper glue (the cheapest)
- PVA glue (the thickest, and this is furniture or carpentry)
- silicate glue (“ liquid glass»)
- cement - for liquid wallpaper; plaster or putty is suitable for modeling
- for modeling I add linseed oil; for liquid wallpaper it is not needed

Well, let's go..

We tear off and discard the edges of the gratings around the perimeter. If you are for waste-free production, add glue to lumps and roll into balls, you will get excellent blanks for topiary.

Pour into a bucket (I have 16 kg of PVA glue) hot water, about half.

We tear the prepared grates into 6-8 pieces and throw them into the water. As you pick it up, press it lightly (!). You shouldn’t push the paper too hard, otherwise it will be compressed into lumps that will not dissolve later, and which we always try so carefully to avoid. Except. Moreover, for trays this stage is just bathing.

Let's let it sit for half an hour to soak off the dirt (yes, yes, this may surprise you, but there is a lot of dirt on the grates). Drain the dirty water. Pour in hot (very) water again and let it sit for another half an hour or an hour.

After an hour, we compact the soaked grates, drain the excess water, there should be just enough water left so that it barely covers the compacted grates.

I do this with this device, popularly known as a regulator family relations.

In this case, I will cover only part of the wall with mass, so I will not need much mass. It took me 15 grates.

We cover the top with a lid - and for 2-3 hours we are completely free again.

After three hours, we dump all the paper into the bath, as it is, and begin to lay it out in layers in the same bucket (there is no need to wring it out, while we are performing these manipulations, the excess water will come out of the paper itself), filling these layers with wallpaper glue (CMC) - a layer of paper, a layer of glue.

Leave for 15-20 minutes, let the glue dissolve. “Dissolve” is too smoothly said, in fact, the glue will swell and turn into slippery lumps, but that’s how it should be.

We begin the kneading process.

I take the family relations regulator and go ahead, when the rolling pin begins to pass freely through the mass, I remove the rings (so that it doesn’t get sucked in) and begin to knead the mass with my bare hands. If you are afraid to get your hands dirty, then you are in the wrong place, because nothing but your hands can determine the quality and “readiness” of the mass being kneaded.

And this is where a real miracle happens - the paper, mixed with glue and slipping through your fingers, begins to MELT before your eyes and turn into a HOMOGENEOUS soft mass.

The base for liquid wallpaper is ready.

As you already understand, each component gives the mass its own property.

So, CMC wallpaper glue is designed to dissolve the paper.

Now we bring the mass to perfection. I got a mass a little more than half a bucket of PVA glue, weighing 16 kg. Next, keep track of the proportions.

Add 5-6 tbsp to the resulting mass. l. PVA glue (the thickest, furniture or carpentry glue).

If CMC glue acted as a solvent, then PVA glue is the main binding component. A universal one will not work, it is not strong enough, and is also prone to mold.

Mix each component thoroughly.

Now add 4-5 tbsp. l. silicate glue (liquid glass), this will strengthen the PVA binding component and the mass itself. Mix.

Now add 3-4 cups (150 ml) of cement. Not gypsum, not putty, but cement - it will significantly reduce the degree of shrinkage of the mass when drying and guarantees permanent adhesion to the wall surface.

At this stage you can add color. But (!) when drying, the color will be VERY significantly different from what you see when mixing - it will become several tones paler. That's why I chose to paint the finished surface.

If I make a mass for modeling, then instead of cement I add plaster or putty, and a spoon or two of linseed oil.

Well, the mass is ready, we are preparing a springboard.

We clean the area of the experimental wall from putty, use a hatchet to make small notches in different places on the surface (for better adhesion). We prime the surface with CMC glue in three or four layers until completely dry.

And we begin to apply our mass.

Our task is to apply a mass of equal thickness in a layer of 05-1 cm, depending on the relief that you have in mind. I came up with an imitation stone.

The mass is applied, smoothed by hand, and we begin to create the relief. It all depends on your imagination and desire.

My nephew gave his walls a relief with his fingers, it turned out cool.

I used a coarse synthetic brush with sparse bristles. I walked it over the entire surface, and then smoothed it in places. Thus, I got a more believable stone relief - smooth in places, rough in others.

Thus, I got a more believable stone relief - smooth in places, rough in others.

It turned out not bad, but I wanted some zest. As a highlight we rolled out marbles. I pressed colorful glass pieces into the freshly sculpted wall and forgot about it all for several days.

I must say right away that this magnificence takes a very long time to dry. When you hit the surface with your fist after a week, you rejoice, but in fact, before painting you will have to wait for complete drying, at least another week. Ideally, you should forget about the wall with a layer of 1 cm for about 3-4 weeks. If you start painting earlier, the top layer, having become wet under the paint, will give a head start to the lower one that has not yet dried, will shrink and drag the bottom layer with it, as a result, your entire creation will completely or partially fall behind the wall.

Now let's paint.

But first, we take a knife and pick out the glass from the wall.

They still didn’t stick, they just filled up the space. After painting, glue them with normal glue.

So, for painting I used spray paint in different shades. I applied it in places, using the method of chaos - wherever God sends. First black, then green, then gold.

As soon as the last layer had dried, I took a bright blue color,

and applied it to the entire surface with a sponge so that the colors of the lower layers showed up as much as possible, especially the gold, just like my new kitchen will be done in blue and gold tones.

This part of the wall was intended to visually mark the wall above the bar counter in the kitchen (those who follow my work will be in for a surprise in the near future - a new revolution in my kitchen)

Well, the wall is ready, the paint has dried, we cover it with spray varnish, dry it and

glue our pebbles into place.

You can inlay anything into this wall, even starfish with shells, however, I think it’s not worth mentioning that such a wall is afraid of moisture..

Torn paper - just like that with French stands for papier-mâché. The technique originated in ancient China, which is considered the birthplace of paper. The approximate dating of the oldest product is the 3rd century BC. After this kind of crafts began to be made in Persia and Japan, and only by the 17th century, papier-mâché began to be used in the interior in Europe.

You can do anything with papier-mâché, you just need a little imagination and a lot of patience

The stone frame in this photo is made of papier-mâché

At first glance, the figure seems to be made of non-ferrous metal, but in fact there is paper inside it

Decorative interior elements, bowls, vases, photo frames and much more are made from a mixture of paper and glue.

The papier-mâché technique uses “paper dough” consisting of glue and soft paper.

The most common techniques for making papier-mâché products:

There are no special issues with the first and last options, but preparing a mixture for paper products requires more careful consideration.

The machining technique allows you to create thin and durable things

Recipes for preparing papier-mâché mixture

There are as many craftsmen as there are so many options for preparing a mass of papier-mâché. Below are the most popular posts that were liked by many needlewomen. Prepared mixtures should be stored in sealed plastic bags or plastic containers. This will help keep the material moist. Containers must be placed in the refrigerator.

Softened paper can be prepared in advance, but glue must be added immediately before work.

First option

We will need:

approximately 60 grams of dark toilet paper;
dry chalk;
potato starch;
clay, but it can be excluded;
PVA glue;
Bustilat glue.

Source materials

The unwound paper is placed in a bowl of water to swell, after which it is wrung out and crushed into flakes.

Ground mass

On at this stage the weight of the mass should be 280 g. Next, add stationery glue (50 ml) and 3 tablespoons of Bustilat, mix with a mixer. Add 3 small spoons of clay and starch and mix again until smooth. Bring the papier-mâché mixture to readiness by kneading with the addition of dry ingredients.

The finished mass can be stored for quite a long time, depending on humidity

Second option

Porcelain papier-mâché is not the cheapest to make, but is distinguished by its quality and slight translucency. Previously used to make dolls or kitchen utensils.
It requires high quality toilet paper (white), cold-pressed flax oil (1 tbsp.), wallpaper glue (2 tbsp.).

The mass according to this recipe is more plastic

The best papier-mâché ideas

The use of papier-mâché in the interior, ideas for which are easy to come up with on your own or to spy on in posts liked by numerous network users. Products made using this technique are lightweight, but quite durable. It will make an adorable Easter bunny or even wall decor.

Things made using the papier-mâché technique are quite durable, light, and most importantly – unique

Vases made using papier-mâché technique

A correctly selected vase can decorate any room design and become its highlight. DIY papier-mâché decor allows you to bring any idea to life. Such things will be carriers of the creator’s positive energy.

You can’t tell right away that this vase is made of paper.

To create it you will need:

newsprint;
packaging paper;
glue;
stationery knife;
not a natural brush;
primer or acrylic paint;
finishing paint;
decorative elements;
petrolatum.

To work you will need an old vase as a base.

Before pasting with cut pieces of paper, the form must be treated with Vaseline so that it can be easily removed. The scraps are glued in layers, alternating layers of newspaper and thicker paper. You need to make at least six of them. Let the workpiece dry completely.

The newspaper is cut into small pieces and pasted in several layers

We cut and pull out the vase from the newspaper shell

After drying, the vase is opened with a white primer, sanded and then covered with a layer of paint that was chosen. At the last stage, the decor is attached.

Be sure to rip the vase with primer

Twine can be used as decoration

Wall decoration

The most common DIY papier-mâché wall decor is brick or stone. To make them, you can use recipe No. 2 for preparing the mass. You will also need a form made of glass or plastic. You can also use cardboard juice packaging, which is covered with a bag.

The cardboard is torn into pieces and poured with boiling water. The cooled mass is thoroughly crushed and dried

The finished mixture is distributed over the mold, making a brick. Allow to set and place on paper until completely dry. If papier-mâché bricks are intended to be used in the interior of a house on curved surfaces or corners, then they should be attached slightly damp to the wall. Completely dry workpieces will not bend, but they can be easily sanded.

The paper pulp is mixed with glue and placed in molds. Dried bricks are fixed on the wall

The bricks glued to the surface are rubbed and primed. After that, you can start painting it in the desired color or several shades. At the last stage, everything is opened with varnish so that the decorative elements can be wiped with a damp cloth.

The final stage is painting

And also, wall decor with papier technique can be used to make elements in the form of an ornament or volumetric flowers. For experienced craftsmen there are manufacturing options volumetric paintings, which will be an excellent addition to the design.

African motifs

Papier-mâché wall decor includes the making of once popular ritual masks. Such souvenirs will be an excellent addition to the African style, which includes animal prints and an abundance of ornaments.

Before work, you need to draw a sketch of your future face or take a ready-made mask you like as a sample.

To make them you will need:

mass of papier-mâché;
food trays of the required size;
primer;
paints.

A mass is applied to the base, covering the entire tray in an even layer. Next, with the help of simple manipulations, the nose, lips, eyeballs and brow ridges are formed. The workpiece should dry well.

A thick layer of mass can dry up to two days

Then the mask is primed and sanded. And the final stage is painting. A loop is attached to the back, from which you can hang the product. The work is completed.

Before painting, the mask must be cleaned with sandpaper and, ideally, covered with a thin layer of wood putty

Such masks are made of any required size and with different facial expressions. You can use natural threads and wooden beads strung on them as hair.

Funny bunnies using papier-mâché technique

Decorative tableware to decorate the kitchen or living room

To make papier-mâché, not only toilet paper is used. Ordinary egg trays can also be a good base. They are crushed and soaked in water, and otherwise the technology is repeated. You don’t have to take a lot of materials and limit yourself to glue and paper pulp. Have fun making papier-mâché decor for your home!