Autumn preparation of roses: how to prune, hill up, cover flowers for the winter. Caring for roses in the fall, preparing for winter. Do roses need to be pruned?

Pruning roses in autumn.

Autumn, autumn... A time of slight sadness and pleasant memories of the past summer. It has become quiet in the garden, he falls asleep until spring... And we walk and leisurely fluff up pillows and straighten blankets for our favorite roses, so that in the spring they will greet us with cheerful bright shoots! Although now we will not talk about shelter, but about the event before shelter - autumn pruning.

Even novice rose growers know that pruning roses should be done in spring and autumn. However, the goals of seasonal pruning will, of course, be different. So, spring pruning of roses is necessary to rejuvenate the bushes, stimulate the growth of new shoots, and, of course, more abundant flowering. Summer pruning consists mainly of removing spent buds to stimulate the growth of new shoots and, again, enhance the flowering of roses.

But autumn pruning of roses is no less important when caring for plants! Let's talk about it today.

When to prune roses in the fall?

Autumn pruning is carried out when the average night temperature drops to minus (-1-3 degrees Celsius). In central Russia, this is usually mid-to-late October.

➡ You cannot prune roses before frosts begin (at least at night), because any pruning promotes bud growth. If you prune before a thaw or, for example, in the Moscow region in September, the buds may begin to grow, but we don’t need that! For the same reason, roses cannot be pruned from the beginning to mid-August; this also applies to removing faded flowers.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that it is advisable to immediately treat the pruning areas with any antifungal drugs. If you have several rose bushes, this will not be difficult, however, with a large number of bushes, this is quite a troublesome task. You can, at your own peril and risk, do without fungicides altogether, but I did not advise you to do so. A simple material at hand like charcoal, at least from a barbecue, helps a lot.

Unripe shoots.

It often happens that autumn is already here, but the roses continue to send out young shoots. It’s a pity, but in the fall these shoots need to be cut off. Why is this necessary? Everything is very simple! Rose shoots that are not woody simply will not survive the winter - they will freeze! Moreover, they will freeze immediately as soon as the first frost hits - 3-5 degrees. And then the thaw comes and such a dead shoot thaws and mushrooms of varying degrees of harmfulness settle on it... So to prevent mushrooms from producing, such shoots are cut out on all types and varieties of roses, without exception.

In order not to deal with the soul-scarring pruning of such beautiful, plump and fatty shoots, it is worth taking some actions in advance. First, do not give roses nitrogen fertilizers starting at the end of July. Secondly, give the roses potassium and phosphorus fertilizers - this stimulates the preparation of the bush for winter and the rapid ripening of existing shoots.

Pruning hybrid tea and floribunda roses.

Roses of these groups can be pruned safely to the middle of the regrown shoots, and even lower, especially if the bushes are strong in growth. However, do not forget: cut half a centimeter above the outer bud - this is a standard technique.

Medium to heavy pruning of hybrid tea and floribunda roses will minimize freezing of shoots if you decide not to cover your roses for the winter and will make covering easier if you do. Don't be scared - this kind of pruning will only benefit the plants.

Pruning park and miniature roses.

These groups of roses, in principle, do not need autumn pruning. We can only talk about pruning flowers and fruits. Moreover, this is done very carefully and minimally. Traditionally, it is worth removing weak, immature shoots and tearing off the leaves if they have not fallen off themselves. Do not touch healthy woody shoots of park roses!

But small branches that thicken the bush can be cut out both in autumn and in spring.

Once blooming roses Do not prune in the fall. Only flowers and buds that have bloomed are removed. Young, immature shoots of this year are only pinched.

Pruning large-flowered climbing roses.

Climbing large-flowered roses are also not pruned in the fall. The maximum that can be done is to remove old flowers and fruits. To keep climbing roses safe and sound until spring, they need to be properly covered. To do this, the lashes must be removed from the supports, carefully twisted, and fixed so that the lashes do not fall apart. Then they are laid on a layer of spruce branches or other plant material, and the top is properly covered with the same spruce branches and boxes. Airtight films should be avoided. When covering a climbing rose, remember that the plant under the cover also needs something to breathe, so a dense, “dead” cover will not be the best.

Autumn pruning of ground cover and/or creeping roses.

Roses that can be classified as ground cover do not require obligatory autumn pruning. However, the flowers and fruits of these roses, of course, should be removed.

Autumn pruning of scrubs and English roses.

There are no particular difficulties here either. Unripe shoots are pruned, leaves and twigs that will thicken the bush are removed. In addition, all unnecessary branches that have outlived their useful life of 2-3 years need to be cut out for the ring. So, for example, an adult bush, depending on the wishes of the gardener, usually consists of 4-6, maximum 7-8 branches and shoots. Therefore, if you have more branches, you can cut them out in the fall. Or maybe in the spring, this is not a fundamental question.

Pruning standard roses.

Autumn pruning of trunks depends on which group the grafted variety belongs to. In any case, heavy pruning is not recommended. In the fall, the flowers are removed, unripe shoots are pruned and the trunk is prepared for wintering.

After pruning, remove the leaves!

Not all roses in our latitudes feel normal. Many people don’t believe that frost is about to hit, and they are in no hurry to shed leaves. But we have the power to reason with them by taking matters into our own hands. That is, after the first significant frost, after pruning, we also need to remove all the remaining leaves.

On some roses they will be easily removed on their own, but on others you will need to apply some effort. Break the petiole sideways, but do not damage the bud in the leaf axil.

What happens if the leaves are not removed?...

For some bushes there will be nothing wrong, but for others the likelihood of getting sick and weakening in winter will increase. After all, somewhere the leaves will lie quietly until opening, and somewhere, where there are winters with numerous thaws, they may rot.

In addition, some of the spores of pathogenic fungi overwinter on the leaves. Therefore, it is better to tear off the leaves and excess shoots and remove them from the site, or burn them.

We wish your roses a successful winter!

Dear friends, write in the comments your tips and recommendations for preparing roses for winter in the fall.

The rose is considered the queen of flowers. Indeed, it serves as an exquisite decoration for any interior, and the colorful types of climbing and climbing beauties make our parks, gardens and summer cottages not just beautiful, but charmingly attractive. A huge variety of varieties allows anyone to find their idol among these flowers.

Today the flower is adapted to any conditions, winter-hardy varieties have been bred.

But the rose bush grows rapidly and requires special care. Flowers require constant pruning in spring and autumn, as well as shelter for the winter. Here we will look at whether all roses need to be pruned and covered for the winter, when and how to carry out these procedures correctly.

Let us briefly list the main, most popular types of these flowers.

Obviously, almost all species require pruning.

Why trim a flower?

There is spring and autumn pruning.

What does spring pruning give:

  1. Spring pruning helps to form a bush of the desired configuration. All wild growth is removed directly from under the base of the bush, the side shoots are leveled, giving the bush the desired shape.
  2. Branches and the tops of dead shoots that have frozen over the winter are cut off, thereby starting the process of forming new full-fledged shoots and providing access to air and light for the plant.

Why autumn pruning is needed:

There are several ways to prune roses, but there are general rules that you simply cannot do without.

General pruning rules

Let's see what needs to be prepared for the process of pruning flowers and when to prune roses.

We will need:

  • sharp pruning shears;
  • a good lopper or garden saw;
  • ordinary or fan rakes;
  • rubber gloves to protect hands;
  • garden pitch and copper sulfate (Bordeaux mixture).

Pruning roses in the fall for beginners involves thoroughly clearing the bush of old leaves both on the bush and under the plant. Therefore, this procedure should be carried out at the end of October - beginning of November, just before covering the plant. At the same time, night temperatures can drop to -5 degrees. But it is advisable to choose dry and sunny weather.

Be sure to clean:

  • shoots older than 3 years;
  • young shoots and shoots are white, which will not withstand frost;
  • all dried parts of the plant;
  • branches that grow inside the bush.
  • all lateral wild growths coming from the base of the bush.

The cuts are made with a sharp, disinfected instrument at an angle of 45 degrees, then they must be covered with garden varnish. To disinfect the bush, it must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture or any antifungal drug.

When pruning in autumn, the bush undergoes severe thinning, which can reach 40-50% of the initial state.

Pruning roses in the spring for beginners differs from the autumn procedure in a more gentle regime: the purpose of this pruning in the spring is to remove frostbitten branches and thickening internal growth, to give access to the sun's rays and air to the stems of the plant.

Basic methods

There are 3 main methods of pruning roses:

  1. Short. With short pruning, 2–3 buds are left on the branches. This method is rarely used, because there is a high risk of freezing the bush. We will apply the method to polyanthus and small-flowered types of flowers, as well as when rejuvenating bushes or when a bush is affected by an infection.
  2. Average. Medium pruning is the most common and effective method. The branches are cut 25–35 cm from the ground, leaving 5–7 buds. When the gardener does not know the variety of rose, it is better to perform such pruning, since it is suitable for all types of roses, with the exception of ground cover and climbing varieties.
  3. Long. The long method involves cutting only the tips of the shoot; it is considered gentle pruning and is applied to elite varieties.

When pruning, the topmost bud should be oriented outward of the bush, not inward. And the cut should be made at a distance of 1–1.5 cm above the last bud.

In addition to these options, there is the term sanitary and combined pruning.

Sanitary pruning is performed to remove all excess branches that thicken the bush. A bush with 5–6 shoots is considered ideal. Everything else should be deleted without regret.

A combined method is used to ensure that the plant blooms continuously. The method consists in the fact that some of the shoots are pruned moderately, and some - very short.

For example, we trim a bush of 9 shoots like this: we cut 3-4 shoots short, leaving 3-4 buds on them, and the rest - 6-7 buds. This method will ensure constant flowering of the plant.

Pruning climbing roses is done using this method.

How to prune a climbing rose

Climbing varieties of roses, also called climbing plants, are especially popular among gardeners. Some roses climb, creeping along the ground, others grow upward. Caring for such beauties is different from caring for ordinary roses. Let's see how to prune a climbing rose.

Climbing climbing flowers, which include small-flowered Ramblers with flexible shoots, blooming in large clusters of small flowers, practically do not require autumn pruning. This pruning is carried out only to shorten the length of the lash and remove faded inflorescences. Flowers in such individuals appear on young and last year's shoots, mainly in the lateral branches.

Climbing varieties, represented by the large Climber family, have rather rigid shoots with large flowers. They bloom due to growths on old shoots. In the fall, they need to remove old branches and leave young ones for up to 4 years. It is advisable to form the bush in this way: leave 3-4 stems for replacement and 6-7 flowering branches.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring is done using a combined method: when weak branches are cut short, stronger shoots are cut in half, and long ones are left almost untouched.

For beginner gardeners, there is a simplified form of caring for climbing roses:

  • The height of the bush must be cut in half.
  • Remove all old and dead shoots from the bush, cutting them off at the very base.

If roses are not pruned, this can destroy them, as they eventually stop blooming and become diseased.

After autumn sanitary cleaning and pruning of bushes, you should cover the roses for the winter.

How to properly cover plants

The technology for covering flowers of the rose family is the same for almost all species. Is as follows:

Growing different varieties and varieties of roses is quite difficult. However, it is these flowers that decorate almost every garden plot, park or square. And one of the main rules of care, thanks to which these bushes actively grow, bloom and have a wonderful decorative appearance, is proper pruning (or pruning shoots that are too tall).

But both beginning gardeners and those who have been growing rose bushes for several seasons should remember that different types of these flowers should be pruned in their own way. The instruments used for this event must be taken care of so that they do not rust and are sharp. These are garden scissors, a garden knife, a saw, and also a pruning shears.

All these tools should be sharpened because the shoots of this shrub need to be trimmed evenly. And with dull scissors or a knife, you can cut the stems unevenly or tear them, and as a result, the branch will most likely die. Cut the shoot at an angle of approximately 45 degrees, retreating from the kidney by 4 - 5 mm. It is impossible to make a cut closer so as not to damage it, and pruning too high is the reason for the death of such a “stump”.

These shrubs are pruned both in spring and autumn, but the purposes of these types of pruning are slightly different. Spring pruning of roses is a topic for a separate article; below we will talk about how to carry out this procedure during the autumn period.

One of the main rules of care, thanks to which rose bushes actively grow, bloom and have a beautiful decorative appearance, is proper pruning.

Autumn pruning of these flowering shrubs should be done in order to:

  • remove excess shoots that appeared during the summer season;
  • get rid of dried, broken, damaged or old stems;
  • large bushes are inconvenient to cover for the winter, so they must be pruned before the winter season by 1/3 - ½ of the length;
  • providing branches with access to sunlight;
  • increasing the resistance of shrubs to frost;
  • strengthening roses;
  • after such pruning, many more buds appear on such plants the next year.

Such an event is held immediately before frost - in the last days of October.

General rules for pruning roses (video)

Types of pruning roses for the winter

There are several principles for pruning these flowering shrubs, they depend on the height and activity of shoot growth:

  1. Short cut. The stems are cut off completely, leaving only a pair of buds on each of them. This method should be used only in cases of extreme necessity, because the cut roses may not survive the winter, as it will be too weak.
  2. Medium circumcision. In this case, the shoots are cut off by no more than half - usually stems up to 30 - 35 cm long are left (this is approximately no more than 7 buds). This type of pruning is most suitable for such flowering shrubs.
  3. Long cut. In the case when the majority (or all) of the flower buds are located on the top of the branches, then such bushes are not subject to pruning (or only the tops of the shoots are cut off). As a result, 10–12 buds remain on each stem.

Each branch is trimmed to healthy wood (it is usually white).

During the pruning process, many hobbyists wonder which shoots are old and should be removed? The answer is obvious - even three-year-old stems are old. Such stems are thicker than all others, become very woody, and have too many side shoots. The bark on them is too dry; such stems have a poorer supply of moisture and nutrition. Therefore, they should be removed in a timely manner so that the bush remains young and does not lose its decorative effect.

Medium pruning is most suitable for flowering shrubs

Technology for pruning rose bushes in autumn for beginners

The technology of this process is simple. First, diseased, frail and dried stems are removed, as well as those branches that rub against them. Pruning is carried out above the buds, which are located on the outside of the stems.

On each bush, no more than 5 young shoots of this season are preserved, and they must be evenly distributed on the bush. The remaining shoots that thicken the bush (growing inward, old or producing too few flowers) are removed in the fall. All cut stems should be burned immediately.

Basic rules for pruning bushes:

  • sharpen the tools used to trim the shoots well before starting this procedure;
  • old woody shoots are usually cut with a hacksaw;
  • the cut is made above the kidney;
  • Be sure to prune at an angle so that raindrops and other moisture drain from them and do not stagnate - this can lead to disease in the bush;
  • shoots are shortened to the healthy part;
  • The weather on the day of such a procedure should be sunny and calm.

Be sure to trim roses at an angle so that raindrops and other moisture drain from them

How to prune bush roses correctly

The main feature of bush roses is that several buds appear on one shoot at once. And only hybrids have only one bud on a branch. Therefore, in order to form bushes of such roses correctly, bush roses are pruned. They are pruned in spring and autumn.

There are several ways to prune these roses. The three main ones have already been discussed above. And the fourth method is combined pruning of shoots.

Short pruning of bush roses is usually carried out in the spring. This method is suitable for:

  • planted seedlings;
  • if the flowering bush is too weak;
  • old plants need to be revived.

Medium pruning is also carried out in April. It is necessary so that the bushes have buds with a neat shape earlier. Long pruning is usually carried out in the summer. Its purpose is to remove drying parts of the stem or fading buds. But combined pruning is used by those gardeners whose rose bushes bloom throughout the year.

For each variety of bush roses, select a different type of pruning (or alternate them).

The purpose of medium pruning of bush roses is to remove drying parts of the stem or fading buds

How to prune climbing roses

Some gardeners believe that this variety of roses should not be pruned at all. However, this is a wrong point of view. Without such a procedure carried out regularly, in a couple of years it will be difficult to approach these weaving and climbing shrubs. And it will not be possible to cover them for the winter.

Typically, the formation of young shoots is carried out not vertically, but horizontally. In this case, many new shoots will form on these plants, on which many buds will appear. And such climbing flowers will delight their owners with continuous flowering all season long. And it’s much easier to care for them. But on vertically formed shoots, the side branches grow only at the top, so the buds appear only there.

Pruning hybrid tea roses in the garden

The main purposes of pruning this particular variety of rose bushes:

  • stimulation of shoot growth from roots;
  • form a crown in the shape of a ball with shoots that are evenly spaced.

Autumn pruning of this variety of roses has its own nuances.. So, the time of this autumn event in the Moscow region is the end of October - beginning of November. And, let’s say, in Ukraine you can carry out autumn pruning in November. Pruning earlier may result in new growth if the fall is warm.

In the fall, all faded shoots of all bushes of the first year are cut off, as well as non-lignified stems that have not bloomed. The same procedure is carried out in subsequent years in the autumn.

How to prune roses in autumn (video)

Techniques for pruning ground cover roses

Usually, for abundant flowering of this type of roses, they are formed on supports located horizontally, or all the stems on which the buds will appear are pinned to the ground. And one of the main conditions for good flowering of ground cover shrubs is their regular pruning. It is also the condition for the regular growth of shoots.

When planting, these flowers are pruned in the same way as hybrid tea varieties. But in the fall of the first year (and all subsequent years), all the stems that bloomed this season are removed. Only young shoots that have grown during this summer season are left. All remaining branches are shortened before the onset of cold weather, leaving no more than 15 cm in height.

In the second year, in the fall, half of all the stems that bloomed are cut off. From the center of the bush, half of the young branches are carefully pinned to the ground and shortened by a couple of buds. In the center of the bushes there should be no shoots crossing each other. If any are found, they are also removed. In subsequent years, autumn pruning is carried out in the same way. They also remove the side stems that grow incorrectly.

In the second year in the fall, cut off half of all the stems that bloomed.

Preparing park roses for winter by pruning

In autumn, all strong shoots are cut off by 8 - 10 cm. pruning stimulates the appearance of lateral branches next season, which will also bloom profusely. At the same time, they get rid of possible foci of infection, which can usually lurk precisely on the tops of these flowers.

During autumn pruning, which is carried out in the first - second ten days of September, diseased, frail, dried stems are removed. You should also remove all branches that thicken the bush or give it irregular shapes.

Other activities for autumn rose care

After these flowering shrubs have stopped blooming, one of the serious stages for gardeners begins - preparing them for wintering. Autumn pruning of different types of roses and its significance have already been discussed above. But there are other events that take place in the fall that are also important for rose bushes.

Loosening the soil and fertilizing

Autumn feeding of these shrubs is extremely important, because during the summer season, actively blooming roses have used up a large amount of nutrients that need to be restored in order to strengthen the root system and stems before the onset of frost.

Mineral fertilizers applied to the soil in the fall include potassium and phosphorus. You can apply complex fertilizers, or those that contain these elements separately. These substances accelerate the process of lignification of stems and at the same time slow down their growth. But there should be no nitrogen in these fertilizers. Because it stimulates the development of green mass, which should no longer grow in the fall.

After fertilizing, the soil should be loosened so that the fertilizer penetrates faster to the roots of the flowers. But no more loosening is carried out.

Before the onset of cold weather, rose bushes must be bent to the ground and pinned

Bending bushes and installing arches

Before covering rose bushes before the onset of cold weather, they must be bent to the ground and pinned. This procedure must be done before the weather gets cold, otherwise the frozen shoots will break. Different gardeners pin roses in their own way. Some people fix each shoot individually, others tie the entire bush with ropes and bend it entirely to the ground.

Sometimes the bushes resist such bending, in which case they are bent to the ground in several passes.
Pinned shoots of roses must be treated with iron sulfate (at the rate of 0.3 kg per bucket of water).

After all the bushes are securely fastened, metal arches are installed above them. It is best to make them from thick wire. But some gardeners use metal-plastic pipes for this. These arcs are installed 5–7 cm above the shoots laid on the ground so that the covering material does not touch them. A arcs are installed so that fallen snow does not break the stems. This shelter is more effective than all others - it retains heat from the soil. And it’s better to remove several bushes at once under such arches.

To perform pruning you need to stock up on special garden tools:

  • A side-cut pruner with a set of two types of blades, which, in turn, are designed for stems of different thicknesses and different ages.
  • Garden shears with long handles that are designed for working in difficult places.
  • A garden saw, the use of which is intended for cutting off the thickest branches.
  • A knife with a thin, but not too thick blade for cleaning and straightening sloppy cuts.
  • For personal protection, gloves and clothing are used to protect the skin from damage. Plant protection in cut areas is ensured using special means.

In order not to ruin the plant, trying to prepare it for winter during gardening, namely pruning, you should follow several rules:

  1. Garden tools that will be used for work must be sharp and treated with a disinfectant - manganese solution.
  2. The branches are cut at an acute angle, which is approximately forty-five degrees. The distance between the main stem and the docked bud should not exceed six millimeters.
  3. Well-developed buds need to be trimmed. If you cut off poorly developed ones, you can slow down the process of sap circulation.
  4. Cuts should be made carefully so that the base of the branch is not damaged.
  5. Thinning can be done on the principle of preserving a healthy and intact part of the bush, cutting off diseased and weak shoots.

How to prune roses correctly in autumn

If pruning is done incorrectly in the fall, then in winter something irreparable can happen - the bush can completely die. The reason for this may be damage and rotting of branches that did not have time to develop before the onset of cold weather. This means that poorly underdeveloped shoots should be cut off first.

The main thing is that only woody shoots remain. Their number can vary from three to six - everything will depend on the main size of the bush.

There are several additional pruning rules:

  1. The procedure is performed only with well-sharpened instruments.
  2. The pruning site should be located above the active, already swollen bud at a distance of no more than one centimeter.
  3. When pruning, you need to monitor the quality of the wood at the site where the shoot or bud is cut.
  4. The procedure should be performed at the end of October on a sunny, warm day.
  5. You can make short, medium and high pruning. The type of pruning will depend on the type of bush. And the main thing is that the pruning method corresponds to the root system, otherwise it can lead to irreversible consequences that relate to disruption of the plant’s nutrition.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Pruning of hybrid tea roses begins in early or mid-November, only in dry, warm weather. If pruning is done earlier, it will not give tangible results, since this can activate the growth of dormant buds and this procedure will have to be repeated again. And each new pruning increases the risk of infection of the plant.

The height of the bush after pruning should be no more than thirty, maximum forty centimeters from ground level.

You cannot trim the hybrid tea rose bush too low, otherwise the plant may not tolerate frost.

Pruning floribunda roses


Before you start breeding a floribunda, there are several factors to consider:

  • This type of rose is designed for continuous flowering;
  • The bush is powerful and strong;
  • Pruning is carried out to improve the quality of flowering.

In different years of development, autumn pruning is done in different ways:

  1. In the first year after planting, autumn planting is carried out according to the principle - remove all diseased and damaged stems, shorten long roots.
  2. As for preparing for wintering in the second year of life, all fragile and flowering parts of the bush are pruned to about twenty centimeters.
  3. In subsequent years, the floribunda rose bush should not only get rid of diseased or low-quality branches, but also thin out the bush. This should be done at the end of September or beginning of October.

Pruning large-flowered climbing roses

The climbing spores of these plants grow very strongly during the summer. At the same time, only second-year shoots bloom, so autumn harvesting of the buds should be done quite carefully - you need to shorten the shoots only by removing the top. When pruning large-flowered climbing roses, you should take into account which group this species belongs to:

  1. The bushes of the first group are cropped in accordance with the need for the degree of landscaping. That is, it is not necessary to remove a large number of buds and shoots, as this can lead to a deterioration in flowering.
  2. Varieties of climbing large-flowered roses of the second group are pruned to medium and low shoot lengths.
  3. The third group assumes high cropping of shoots, since future flowering begins in the fall on the upper points of the shoots.

In any of the three cases, it is assumed to remove excess branches that can clog the bush, but this must be done without much effort, since excessive pruning can degenerate the climbing structure of the plant into a shrub. Therefore, the length of the shoots should be commensurate with the size of the bush.

Pruning climbing rambler roses

Autumn pruning of rambler involves removing shoots that have already bloomed. Thus, a flowering plant for the next year is formed, which guarantees beautiful and healthy inflorescences. Since this type of rose grows quite widely during the summer during weaving, autumn pruning involves removing most of the wattle, leaving only five or six main ones.

Young strong shoots are left, but old woody shoots are most often removed.

Pruning roses Modern Shrub


Preparing Modern Shrub roses for wintering is carried out in several stages, but it involves proper pruning:

  1. First, undeveloped shoots that did not have time to reach maturity during the summer are removed;
  2. The bush is thinned out, removing excess leaves and shoots that form small branches;
  3. Be sure to remove two-year and three-year-old shoots, which will no longer bloom in the future, but will only slow down the development of the plant;
  4. The maximum number of branches and shoots after autumn pruning should be no more than five to six pieces.

Pruning Modern Shrub can be done in the spring - this will not in any way affect the flowering of roses or the growth of the shrub itself.

Pruning ground cover roses

Unlike many other varieties of roses, groundcovers are not afraid of winter, so pruning them in the fall involves a little cropping. This procedure is performed only to ensure that the bush takes the desired shape.

In subsequent years, partial autumn thinning of the bushes is carried out. At the same time, diseased and dead shoots and branches are removed.

Every five to six years the bush is pruned to thirty centimeters in height. Thus, the plant is rejuvenated.

Pruning standard roses

Autumn pruning of standard roses is as follows:

  • Thinning the plant from old and diseased shoots;
  • A cut of fruits and the last buds that appeared in the fall;
  • Cut off all the leaves that did not have time to fall;
  • The branches are practically not shortened - sometimes only the tops are cut off.
  • It is important not only to thin out the bushes from excess shoots, but also to monitor the removal of wild growth. It is easy to identify in a bush - it is a lateral shoot from the very rhizome of the flower bush.

Timing for pruning roses

Pruning is carried out from the end of September to mid-October, but there are some varieties that can be pruned until November. In this case, you need to choose dry, warm days. This is done so that disinfection and processing of sections is not washed away by precipitation.

Wild roses look beautiful without any intervention; they do not need either spring or autumn pruning. But you are unlikely to expect abundant flowering and rapid growth from garden roses without pruning. By pruning old branches, you encourage the appearance of strong new shoots, additional foliage and large flowers.

And if with the help of spring pruning a beautiful rose bush is formed, then pruning roses in the fall allows the shoots to have access to light, increases the winter hardiness of the plants and strengthens them, so that by the next season many more roses will appear on the bush.

Autumn pruning is carried out just before, and both the roses already growing in the flower garden and only the planted seedlings are pruned. You will need to cut out all unripe parts of the shoots, diseased and weak stems, foliage, flowers and buds. In the rose bush, 3-5 of the most developed, strong young shoots should remain, evenly spaced, and all thickened ones and growing inside the bush should be removed. If you leave immature shoots on the bush in winter, they will rot under the cover, infecting the entire plant with a fungus. Cut plant debris cannot be left under the bush; collect them and burn them to prevent the development of pathogenic bacteria.

Autumn pruning is carried out just before the roses are covered for the winter, and both the roses already growing in the flower garden and only the planted seedlings are pruned.

Which stems can be called old? In modern varieties of roses, three-year-old shoots are considered to be old; they have a large number of side branches, their bark is dried out - this means that the suckers inside the shoot are no longer able to fully supply the plant with water. There is no longer any benefit from thick, woody shoots; you need to get rid of them on time.

Video about pruning roses for the winter

General rules for pruning roses

No matter what time of year pruning is carried out, you must adhere to the basic rules so as not to harm the plants:

  • For pruning, only sharp pruning shears are used, since roses have very delicate wood; with a blunt instrument, you can crush the stems and make a ragged cut, which will take a long time to heal or will die completely from infection;
  • thick shoots should be cut out with a hacksaw;
  • make the cut over a swollen bud that has not had time to germinate; the distance from the cut to the bud should be at least half a centimeter;
  • the stem is cut at an angle so that water drains from it, then the cut site will not become a source of infection;
  • pruning must be done on the outer bud - the shoots will not intersect, and the center of the bush will be well lit and ventilated;
  • the stems need to be shortened to the white core;
  • The best time for pruning is a calm sunny day.

For pruning, only sharp pruning shears are used, since roses have very delicate wood.

Take care to protect your rose bushes from diseases by thoroughly disinfecting your tools in potassium permanganate. The cut area on the shoots will need to be treated with garden varnish.

Features of pruning roses depending on the variety

In principle, pruning roses for the winter is not particularly difficult; you just need to correctly shorten the plant to the required length, taking into account the size of the rose bush, the specifics of its growth and the variety of roses. So, there are three main types of pruning:

  • long - at least 10 buds remain at the base of the shoot; little or no pruning is done;
  • medium – the most effective, about 5 buds are left at the base, shoots are cut at a height of 35 cm from the ground;
  • short - used in extreme cases, since it can lead to a decrease in the winter hardiness of the plant; the shoots during such pruning are completely removed, leaving only the base of the rose bush with a pair of buds.

Video about pruning roses

Damaged and weak branches of park roses are removed, and the remaining shoots are shortened quite a bit. Climbing roses, which have small flowers, should not be cut, you can slightly refresh the ends, but if the flowers are large, cut the shoots by a third of the length. Floribunda roses can be pruned short, like hybrid tea and polyanthus roses, leaving only the 4 developed lower buds. Hybrid tea roses especially require heavy pruning if they are grown for cutting into bouquets - it promotes the formation of long, unbranched, strong shoots with large single flowers.

Cascading standard roses are pruned short only in the first year, leaving shoots 15 cm high. In subsequent years, only faded shoots are removed, and young and strong ones are shortened only slightly. Remontant roses and grandiflora need to be cut in half, leaving 5 buds on the shoots. For shrub and Old English roses, shoots are pruned by two-thirds and sometimes three-quarters.