Sedum is a prominent care plant in the fall. Sedum planting and care in open ground, replanting, propagation

Flowers are both annual and perennial, and evergreen specimens live in tropical latitudes. The latter often become indoor plants in our latitudes.

Lifespan sedums directly depend on living conditions, primarily on illumination, as well as compliance with the conditions glaze. It is important to prevent root rotting due to excess moisture.

Most often grown in the house:

1.Morgana sedum, also called Donkey's Tail. Sedum looks great suspended, with freely flowing shoots. The leaves of this species look like drops. The shoots resemble ropes, grow up to a meter long, and are very fragile. Small red flowers appear at the ends of the shoots, but only in long-lived sedums.

2.Red-colored sedum. Blooms yellow. Low-growing shoots with small leaves of rich green color.

3.Sedum Adolf. White flowers. The stem of young plants is straight; as they grow, they begin to bend and spread.

4.Weinberg's sedum. The leaves of this sedum grow from a rosette and are covered with a wax-like coating on top.

Flowering and growth

Sedum blooms at home infrequently - this is due to the lack of direct sunlight. For stimulation, it is useful to place the plant outside or on a balcony. Sedum blooms in summer period. And in winter, the plant needs to rest.

Average per season flower grows on a few centimeters.

Lighting

For all its unpretentiousness, hare cabbage is very light-loving plant. Sedums need direct sunlight all year round for successful growth. Good ventilation is equally important.

Temperature

In warm weather, it is useful to take sedum outside Fresh air.
In winter, sedum can withstand zero temperatures, but feels best when 8 – 12 degrees. If the room is hot in winter, the sedum stretches and the leaves turn pale. This is due to the lack of light in winter.

Soil and replanting

Sedums do not require a special environment. These plants survive even in empty mountain soils.

1. It is advisable to put it at the bottom of the pot drainage.

2. The soil for planting can be prepared from turf, sand and leaf soil, mixing all this in equal proportions. The sand must be coarse-grained. The substrate should turn out loose for better drying.

In frequent transplantation of sedum dont need, since when replanting it is easy to damage their root system. Flowerpots for young plants are changed every two years, old plants - every four years. Some species can only be replanted if absolutely necessary, due to the fragility of the plant.

Sedum rhizomes are horizontal, so the pots should not be deep.

After purchasing, the sedum needs to be replanted only if the pot in which it grows is not suitable for the plant: the flowerpot should be wide, but not deep.

Watering and air humidity

Hernia grass belongs to the Crassulaceae family; these plants have thick leaves that store moisture. Therefore the plant does not need frequent watering. In warm weather, moderate watering is sufficient when the soil in the pot dries out. You can’t overwater a flower – its roots easily rot in wet soil conditions. In cold weather, it is enough to water the sedum once every 1.5 - 2 months.

No need for additional moisture air for cleaning.

Reproduction (growing)

Sedums can be propagated:

Seeds. You can plant sedum seeds in autumn and spring, in shallow boxes. Then you need to cover it - create greenhouse conditions. After several leaves appear, the bores are transplanted into a pot.

Cuttings. They are planted immediately in flowerpots.

Leaves. The leaves are placed on the soil, where they take 3 to 5 weeks to sprout roots.

Young sedums bloom at 2–3 years of age.

In special pruning sedums are not needed. But if a shoot or leaf has fallen off, you can put water on it and, after the roots appear, plant it.

Pests

Due to the thick skin of sedums, pests hardly touch them. The exception is root scale insects.

For prevention, you need to avoid overwatering.

Possible problems and their signs

If the sedum the leaves begin to wrinkle, means flower not enough moisture.

If the leaves are falling off, and the flower stretches upward - to the plant not enough light.

Sometimes leaves can fall off as a reaction to a flower transplant.

In indoor floriculture, caring for sedums is very simple. You can create a whole garden on the windowsill by growing several types of these unpretentious, but very beautiful plants.

Sedum - garden care

Fever grass is often grown on a personal plot.

Gardeners love sedums for their unpretentiousness. These plants make amazing flowering carpets. You can plant hare cabbage in combination with other plants to create flower arrangements.

More often you can find these types of sedums:

Sedum prominent. A plant with straight stems, over half a meter in height. The leaves are light green, the flowers are pink.

Sedum telefium. There are several subspecies with flowers ranging from pink-red to cream.

Caucasian sedum. Grows in a carpet of yellow star flowers. This species is characterized by increased resistance to cold.

Purple sedum. The leaves of the plant are dark in color with a purple tint. Flowers are bright pink.

Caustic sedum. Low bushes with bright yellow flowers.

Planting sedum

As mentioned earlier, sedums are extremely unpretentious. The only important condition for them is presence of light. In conditions of light shade, the plants will not disappear, but they will bloom worse, and with strong shading they will completely lose their appearance.

With sufficient light, they bloom from spring until cold weather.

IN watering need rarely.

Can grow on rocky soil.

In a garden setting land it's better under sedums slightlyfertilize compost or humus.

You should not plant sedums near trees where they may be covered with leaves, as they will not be able to break through in the spring.

On average, sedum grows in one place for up to five years. But during frosts, a number of plants may disappear. And some of the shoots die off over time. Old shoots are removed and new cuttings are planted - this is how the flower cover is rejuvenated. In addition, self-seeding of new plants occurs.

Caring for sedum in the fall. Preparing for winter.

IN autumn period Sedums are not watered to avoid root rotting in the ground.

Before the onset of cold weather, it is better to prune, leaving the cuttings 3–4 cm above the ground, which should be sprinkled with a little earth. The cut part can be placed in water until roots appear. And thus propagate the plant.

You don’t have to trim it, but during the frost period the plant will lose its attractiveness, and you will still have to remove it.

During the warm season, the sedums from the roots will grow again.

The types of sedums that grow in our latitudes tolerate winter well. But some species need a little insulation. The main thing is to remove from the plants in the spring the layer of debris that has accumulated over the winter.

Preparation

Pests and diseases of sedums

Sedums are rarely affected by diseases and pests.

But some species, especially those with broad leaves, may be susceptible to invasions false caterpillars. In this case, the plants processed with special compounds, for example "aktelikom". You can place lettuce leaves under the sedum as bait and, when the pests gather on the tasty leaf, destroy the caterpillars.

In damp conditions, sedums can be affected fungal diseases, which appear as dark spots on the green part of the plant. Damagedleaves need to be removed, better to burn.

Sometimes sedums are attacked aphid. In this case, you need to treat the plant by special means. The same ones are suitable as for currants.

If the sedums are sick thrips – their upper part of the stem is bent.

Another pest is weevil. At night it damages young leaves. To catch pests, spread something light under the flower and shake off the bugs.

Sedum is a very unpretentious and beautiful plant. Does not require special care, is drought-resistant, grows even in rocky soil. Sedum can be grown both indoors and in the garden. This flower goes well with other plants and will create a unique flower garden.

Perennials are predominantly herbaceous plants whose leaves and stems die off with the onset of cold weather.

The root system overwinters in the ground and produces new shoots in the spring. Perennial flowers grow in one place for many years, occupying an ever larger area. They need to be divided and seated.

Perennial ornamental plants

Decoration household plots of the Central Russian strip are rightly considered unpretentious phlox, floriferous bushes, various irises and.

No less popularity enjoy tall bushes, tender aquilegia, fire gaillardia and modest bells.

Perennial species herbaceous plants differ appearance and individual developmental characteristics.

Phlox paniculata

Characteristics of the species:

• Tall bush variety;
• Height reaches – 1.0–1.5 m;
• Stems– smooth, erect, with woodiness at the base;
• Leaves– paired, oval, lanceolate or elongated;
• Flowers– tubular with a flat rim diameter 3–4 cm of five petals of various colors (white, pink, lilac, crimson, purple, variegated);
• Inflorescences- in the form of a complex panicle of 60–90 flowers, collected at the ends of peduncles;
• Root system– branched rhizome with growth buds;
• Blooming season– June-October;
• Favorable planting period- October;
• Frost resistance– high, does not require shelter for the winter.

Catalog of perennials wintering in open ground:

Herbaceous peony

Characteristics of the species:

• Bush height – up to 1 m;
• Stems– smooth, dense, disintegrating;
• Leaves– arranged alternately, feathery, dark green shades;
• Flowers– single spherical, diameter 15–20 cm(white, all shades of pink and red);
• Rhizome– large, thickened, cone-shaped with growth buds;
• Blooming season- May June;
• Favorable planting period- Aug. Sept;
• Frost resistance– medium, requires shelter.

About planting peonies in open ground and the secrets of caring for them:

Iris (iris)

Characteristics of the species:

• Height flowering shoot - 25–70 cm, some varieties reach 1m;
• Stems– smooth, hollow, single, with branches;
• Leaves– saber-shaped, gathered at the base, green with a waxy coating;
• Flowers– various shades (white, yellow, pink, blue, purple), single or in inflorescences, shaped like orchid flowers with velvety petals;
• Root– superficial, tuberous;
• Blooming season- May June;
• Planting period- Aug. Sept;
• Frost resistance– high.

Important: perennial flowers, the stems and leaves of which die in the fall, must be pruned with the onset of persistent frosts.

Autumn pruning of perennials: is it important?

Autumn pruning aerial parts of herbaceous perennial plants necessary because:

• Rotting withered leaves may cause destruction of the root system and death of the plant;
• Controversy fungal microorganisms preserved under a layer of snow, can infect young shoots;
• Aboveground part interferes with processing soil with fungicides (, sulfur color and other chemicals for treating plants to protect them from fungal diseases), mulching soil and shelter plants;
• Withered leaves and stems are wintering sites polyphagous pests;
• Spring pruning can damage growth buds;
• The root system should accumulate strength for renewal in the spring;
• Save time for spring work;
• Aesthetic appearance of flower beds Location on.

Note: Pruning is not carried out on perennial plants whose leaves do not die off in winter. These types include: hosta, hellebore, sedum, bergenia, periwinkle, etc. Some of them should be insulated for the winter with spruce branches or constructed frame shelters.

When is the best time to prune?

Autumn pruning of perennial flowers is carried out after first frost. Until this time, the leaves and stems, which have not yet withered, continue to nourish the root system. They're starting trimming in dry weather from late October to mid November.

In October, before the onset of severe frosts, prune majority perennials: phlox, peonies, gaillardia, brunera, astilbe, pyrethrum, aquilegia, bells, etc.

Above the surface soils leave smooth stems tall 3–5 cm, which are sprinkled with loose earth or sawdust. Young plants and non-frost-resistant species shelter for the winter.

In October They also trim off wilted leaves. irises And delphinium. With the onset of persistent frosts, young shoots are shortened clematis(before 20-25 cm), which appeared this year. Last year's stems are not pruned.

About the diversity of species and varieties of hybrid daylilies:

You should not rush to prune daylilies, as they can send out young shoots before the onset of cold weather.

Delete withered leaves Can at the end of October after the first frost. Above ground shoots should be left tall 10–12 cm.

Together with herbaceous perennials, the branches are shortened in front of the shelter and young shoots are cut to rose bushes. For border roses, only the inflorescences and late shoots are cut off.

What you should pay attention to?

For trimming the aerial parts of perennial flowers use or sharpened garden knife. You should wear gloves on your hands. Woody stems of some tall plants can be broken off.

Let's consider the main pruning features some types of herbaceous perennials:

• Phlox paniculata, echinacea, cut flush with the ground or broken off, leaving shoots high above the ground 5–10 cm. Short, dry stems will trap snow above the plant's root system;
• Leaves iris And daylily shorten with pruning shears up to 10–12 cm;
• Hollow stems delphinium cut off knife on high 25–30 cm above the surface of the earth so that water does not get into them;
• Young shoots clematis(first-year ones) are shortened with pruning shears, leaving 20–25 cm;
• Small-flowered perennials, the above-ground part of which completely dies off in winter, is cut off with a sharp knife flush with the ground.

Good to know: cut leaves and stems should be burned and the ashes thrown away to avoid contamination of the soil by fungal spores.

Done correctly autumn pruning of perennial flowers followed by mulching the soil allows them to successfully postpone winter frosts, get rid of from diseases and pests, speed up development of young shoots and peduncles.
From the following video You will learn about the features of pruning the herbaceous perennial peony:

Plant of the Crassulaceae family. People call it hare cabbage, squeaky grass or living grass. This plant of extraordinary beauty is a wonderful decoration of the garden from spring to autumn. It is used to create alpine slides, borders and flower beds. Sedum is also a medicinal plant.

Landing. For planting, you need to choose a sunny or partial shade location. The plant survives in any soil, but prefers well-drained soil, as it does not tolerate excessive moisture. Its roots may rot. Dig a hole (you can put a handful of ash in it), straighten the roots of the bush, cover it with earth and water it.
Care. Sedum is unpretentious and requires virtually no watering, resists drought well and does not require special care.

Reproduction. Sedum is propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings and seeds. In autumn or spring, you can divide the bushes and root the cuttings. Seeds are sown in spring or winter. For rejuvenation, it is recommended to divide the sedum bush every 2-3 years. Then it will bloom densely with large inflorescences.
Trimming. For the winter, cut the sedum stems at a distance of 2-3 cm from the ground.

Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are those, such as the Ramiro pepper, whose popularity is literally worldwide. And if most vegetables on supermarket shelves are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their variety, then the name of this pepper “Ramiro” will certainly be on the packaging. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth letting other gardeners know about it. In connection with which this article was written.

Autumn is the most mushroom time. It is no longer hot, and heavy dew falls in the mornings. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a completely special microclimate in the ground layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if you haven’t introduced yourself to each other, get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms that look like coral.

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Pepper ajvar - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce made from bell peppers with eggplants. The peppers for this recipe are baked for quite a long time, then they are also stewed. Onions, tomatoes, and eggplants are added to ajvar. To store eggs for the winter, they are sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the ripest and meatiest vegetables on the market.

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The idea of ​​growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is scary at first, until you become imbued with the naturalness of the process: in nature, this is exactly how everything happens. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, and fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created over centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.

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Tomato sauce with onions and sweet peppers - thick, aromatic, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and is thick because this recipe contains pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened in the sun in the garden beds. Bright, red tomatoes will make equally bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made dressing for spaghetti, and you can also simply spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.

This year I often observed a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the bleached tops of shoots “burn.” This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And lightening of foliage does not always mean a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack during chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell you in the article.

Korean vegetables for the winter - delicious Korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy because it is prepared with Korean carrot seasoning. Be sure to prepare a few jars for the winter; in cold winter, this healthy and aromatic snack will come in handy. You can use overripe cucumbers for the recipe; it is better to harvest vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in the open ground under the sun.

Autumn for me means dahlias. Mine begin to bloom as early as June, and all summer the neighbors peek at me over the fence, reminding them that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by the fall. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. This means it’s time to start preparing the plants for the long, cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets of autumn care for perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.

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Pinjur - Balkan-style eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. A distinctive feature of the dish is that the eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a roasting pan or in a thick-bottomed pan, adding the rest of the vegetables specified in the recipe. The caviar turns out to be very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.

Perennials delight their owners flowering and decorative greenery throughout many years. They develop, they give new shoots grow in breadth and height.

Overground part of herbaceous perennials dies off with the onset frost, and their root system with growth buds remains in the ground.

Some kinds perennials tolerate cold, without resetting foliage. That's why it's like that important create favorable conditions for wintering plants.

Provide plant protection in winter various will help types of shelters, timely , mulching the soil(covering the soil with a protective layer - hay, grass, sawdust, bark, gravel, sand and other organic and inorganic materials), storage tubers and bulbs of some species indoors. To complete the task, it is necessary to think through and draw up autumn work plan on a personal plot.

How to prepare perennials for winter

There are several techniques, which will help ensure full protection perennial plants from winter frosts and during spring thaw. For various types of flowers and shrubs apply:

• Trimming;
• Insulation;
• Mulching the soil;
• Cleaning tubers and bulbs for winter storage.

Choice way autumn preparation depends on frost resistance plants.
To save cold resistant herbaceous perennials(Brunnera macrofolia, Echinacea purpurea, sedum) enough trim faded aboveground part And mulch the soil in the place of growth.

This method gives opportunity plant accumulate there are enough nutrients in the root system for wintering and spring revival. Hemp woody stems are left so that they can detain snow cover.

Perennial plants, the above-ground parts of which doesn't die off(for example, wintergreen, hoofed grass, etc.) not completely cut off. First-year and non-frost-resistant species are insulated spruce branches.

In front of the shelter soil mulch over the root system peat or garden soil mixed with humus. Install over large plants spruce huts or construct frame, which is filled with shavings and covered with waterproof material.

The roots of some tuberous And bulbous perennials especially unstable to soil freezing save until spring in a warm room. At night temperatures from +3 to 0 degrees start dig early flowering plant varieties (irises, crocuses,), then medium flowering(mock orange, spirea, honeysuckle, viburnum, etc.) and late(, cannas, some varieties, hydrangea, etc.).

Root tubers and bulbs dried at room temperature and send Into the basement before spring planting.

Autumn pruning of perennials

After first autumn frosts begin pruning perennial flowers and shrubs. Until this time, the root system continues to be nourished by the above-ground parts of the plants.

Favorable For pruning perennials, the period without precipitation is considered from late October to mid November.

Pruning herbaceous plants for the winter:

• Prevents decay rhizomes;
• Promotes removal infected viruses and fungal microorganisms of the aerial part;
• Facilitates the process of mulching the soil;
• Destroys larvae of polyphagous pests;
• Provides safety growth buds;
• Guarantees reliable insulation of the root system.

Sustainable to the cold kinds perennials such as astilbe, brunera, aquilegia, pyrethrum, peonies, trimmed to the height up to 5 cm from the surface of the earth. The soil around is mulched, sprinkled with a mixture of earth and peat or dry sawdust.

Leaves iris pruned up to 10 cm. Stems delphinium leave high 25 cm, since they may get water and damage the roots. Up to 20 cm shorten shoots clematis, which appeared in the current season.

Pruning perennials bushes also begin with the onset first frost. Rose branches are shortened up to 30 cm, fully delete young shoots that cannot withstand severe frosts. Bush carefully thin out, leaving up to five well-developed branches.

In large-leaved hydrangeas flower buds appear at the ends of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only for the purpose of thinning the bush.

After the leaves fall from the bushes spirea cut at the root 25% branches. Removing faded shoots stimulates uniform development of the bush next season. young shoot trying to leave it untouched. Jasmine before the onset of cold weather, thin out, cut out dry, crooked and disease-affected branches.

Excavation for storage

Roots non-frost-resistant species perennial plants are dug up with the onset of cold weather and store before spring planting wet cool microclimate.

Early October dig up the bulbs gladioli and montbretia, dahlia and begonia tubers. After the first frost clean up for storage of rhizomes cannes indian.

Preparing for winter storage of perennial bulbs

• Excavation begins at dry weather when the leaves of the plants have already turned yellow;
• Shovel pry layer of earth below level of the root system and carefully separate the bulbs along with tubers and wilted shoots;
• Stems and roots are shortened up to 2–3 cm;
• Bulbs sorting through and throw away the damaged ones;
• Dry bulbs in a warm room 20–25 days;
• Delete roots, upper husks and old bulbs, tubers are separated;
• Through three day planting material clean up for storage in a room with a temperature up to +10 degrees.

Tubers begonias dug up after night frosts. Shoots are pruned to height 2–3 cm. The tubers along with the soil are transferred to warm drying room.

Then shake off from the ground, cut off the remaining stems and lay down for storage in cool damp room. Rhizome cannes indian dug up and stored together with a lump of earth in the basement or .

Before cleaning dahlia stems release from the top layer of earth, and then pruned below this level. To extract tubers, dig a narrow hole around the bush. trench and pry up a layer of earth along with the root system. Then carefully clear the soil and sprinkle the damaged areas with peat. Store root tubers in one row at temperature 3–5 degrees And high air humidity.

It is important to know: Dahlia root tubers cannot be dried in a warm room, as they quickly dry out and may die.

You may also be interested in an article about caring for dracaena at home:

Options for shelter from frost

Unstable plants to frost should insulate for the winter. Shelter can serve: layer of soil, branches of coniferous trees, frame structures, lutrasil (non-woven material), reed mats, plywood, etc.

Spruce spruce branches is a good snow barrier. At the same time the needles scares away rodents and provides ventilation shelters. Spruce branches are used for insulation clematis, whose shoots twist and laid on the ground.

Rose bush shelter

Sheltering roses for the winter takes place in the following way:

• Cut branches tighten and tied with spruce branches in the form of a hut;
• Curly varieties are removed from their supports and insulate, like clematis vines;
• Miniature species () are sprinkled with peat and covered ceramic pots;
• Hybrid varieties are hilled, tied with spruce and covered with plywood boxes;
• Park crops do not need winter shelter.

Chrysanthemums cut off before insulation almost level with soil and covered with spruce branches, reed mats or plywood. In order to insulate the root system, the soil is mulched in places where herbaceous perennials grow. Sprinkled dry peat and flower beds with bulbous primroses.

Branches heat-loving ornamental shrubs bend down to the ground and covered with lutrasil - a covering material, which is subsequently covered snow. The thickness of the cover can reach 80 cm, which has a positive effect on the wintering of perennial plants.

The snow must stay loose And do not compact during thaws. Under the ice crust, plants can suffocate. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the snow flooring.

Interesting fact: To shelter small plants, you can independently build a frame house from non-woven material.

• Pruning small-flowered I perform herbaceous perennials flush with the ground. The soil above the root system is mulched to protect it from cold and rodents;
• Roses And chrysanthemums should be insulated last of all, since they may die from damping off. The shelter must be well ventilated;
• Trimmed parts of herbaceous perennials and shrubs burn, and the ashes are thrown away so that to avoid infection by viruses and fungal diseases of healthy plants;
• To protect plantings on alpine roller coaster they are completely covered with non-woven material, the edges of which are sprinkled with earth or pressed down with stones;
• Do not do it cover the roots of wintering perennials straw, since rodents can live in it;
• Young bushes wrapped for the winter burlap or lutrasil. The same applies to coniferous crops, which can “burn” in the sun at the end of winter.

Look video about preparing the garden for winter and covering perennials: