Unpleasant diseases of tomatoes: root and basal rot. Root rot (blackleg) on ​​tomatoes, what to do? How to fight tomato root rot

Greetings, dear friends! The time is just around the corner when the seedling growing season begins. And many who grow their own seedlings (and for those who prefer to buy, there will be an article about that) have probably encountered this “black mower”.

Black leg of seedlings - this disease is caused by a complex of soil pathogenic fungi, manifested by blackening of the basal part of the plant, roots. Very often, constrictions form at the roots and the plants die.

This disease often affects seedlings in the early stages of development. Its causative agents are a complex of pathogens, for the most part these are types of soil fungi or bacteria that penetrate the root collar of plants.

The greatest harm is caused by gross violation of cultivation technology. Upon closer examination, the root part of the stem of the affected plants is covered with a dirty white felt coating. The tissues turn black, become thinner, a constriction forms at the soil surface, and soft rot develops. Affected seedlings lie down and the plants wither.

In case of severe waterlogging, it can also be observed in older plants. In this case, the stem becomes dark brown, softens, the tissue at the site of the lesion is depressed, the leaves of such plants turn yellow (starting from the lower tier), the plants are depressed and often die.

Recently, root rot has often been observed, as well as rot of the root region of various crops, caused by excessive addition of organic matter or microbiological preparations to the soil, such as "", "Shine", and especially those prepared with their use. With the correct dosage, these drugs, on the contrary, increase plant resistance and improve soil microflora.

However, if the concentration is exceeded or the compost is prepared incorrectly (usually it is not allowed to ripen), effective microorganisms begin to attack living plants, especially if they have mechanical damage (for example, planted seedlings, which always have root injuries).

Protective measures

The black leg of seedlings appears in favorable conditions for it: when the soil is waterlogged, watered with cold water, poor drainage or the absence of a hole for water drainage in seedling boxes, lack of lighting and thickened planting, introducing incompletely rotted manure into the soil for seedlings (which guarantees the occurrence of such diseases like root rot!), which is known to contain many pathogens. Therefore, all preventive measures should be aimed at eliminating these factors.

When replanting seedlings, you should not over-water the plants and then place them on still rather cold balconies and loggias.

The soil in greenhouses must be changed every season. To be fair, it is worth noting that ready-made purchased soil mixtures can also be of poor quality and contain many pathogens due to the presence of a large percentage of organic matter.

Therefore, it is advisable to take soil from your garden to grow seedlings, removing the top soil and using the underlying soil, which lies at a depth of 10-30 cm. The soil of this horizon is very loose, has a granular structure, and does not contain weed seeds or spores of pathogenic fungi.

Due to its natural porous structure, no leavening agents (such as sand or sawdust) can be added. It is useful to freeze the soil for seedlings - that is, pour it into boxes in advance, in the fall, and store it under a canopy in the yard if you live in your own house, or on a loggia if you live in a city apartment.

To avoid “black leg”, watering should be carried out only as the earthen clod dries out. On cloudy and cold days do not water.

Maintain normal sowing density. For prevention purposes, and especially when the disease appears, the soil is watered with a light pink solution. The affected plants are carefully removed along with the adjacent lump of soil. Watering and spraying seedlings with Rost-concentrate, as well as stimulants and Epin, has a very good effect in the fight against blackleg.

If you have constant problems with plant root diseases, it is recommended to add spores of the trichoderma antagonist fungus in the form of a biological preparation to the prepared soil mixtures. Trichoderma neutralizes the destructive activity of pathogenic fungi that cause blackleg.It is advisable to use a freshly prepared preparation whose spores are viable.

The biological product Fitosporin-M is also designed to combat blackleg. It is used when picking seedlings, and then before planting them in the ground, the roots are immersed in a suspension of the drug for 1-2 hours.

In damaged plants, tubercles of adventitious roots usually form on the stem slightly above the lesion site. In this case, the plants can still be helped by sprinkling the adventitious roots with sand or peat with the addition of.

Over time, such plants will switch to feeding using adventitious roots. In this case, the cutting method is also advisable. The stem of the plant is cut off above the lesion to eliminate the infection and disinfected in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate.

If you prefer chemicals protection, use Previkur 607 SL when growing seedlings (15 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water at the rate of 2-4 liters of solution per 1 sq.m). The drug should be applied when the substrate is wet so that it can easily penetrate into the root zone of the plant. The drug has unique stimulating abilities, so treated plants are significantly ahead of untreated plants in growth and development.

This is, perhaps, all that can be done to ensure that the black leg of seedlings and root rot do not make you worry about lost plants.

But the most important thing is not to over-water the plants and provide them with normal light conditions. Then you most likely will not have problems with seedlings.

I wish you healthy seedlings in the new year! See you soon!

With all respect, Andrew

Enter your email and receive new articles by email:

Unfortunately, due to tomato diseases, you may lose a significant part of your harvest. To prevent this, we will describe the most common ailments of tomatoes, show photos, and tell you how to deal with them and what prevention methods to use. Unfortunately, there are a lot of pathogens, these can be viruses, fungi, bacteria. Adverse weather conditions also play a role and can cause serious disruptions in the functioning of the bush. As you can see, there are a lot of problems, let's solve them armed with knowledge.

Late blight.

Late blight appears unexpectedly on tomatoes, but it is very difficult to get rid of it. If it is not eliminated in a timely manner, almost the entire harvest will be at risk. The above-ground part of the bush is affected, first black areas appear, which over time begin to rot.

The harmful fungus collects on soil and plant debris. Therefore, in the fall, destroy all fallen leaves from the garden, and in the spring it is also necessary to disinfect the soil in the greenhouse.

Prevention: It is necessary to observe crop rotation, and in regions where outbreaks of late blight often occur, it is recommended to grow hybrids and varieties resistant to this fungus: “Semko 99”, “Lights of Moscow”, “Little Prince”, “Akademik Sakharov”, “Orange Giant”, “ “ , "Celsus".

Traditional methods against late blight:

The choice of variety cannot be a panacea, therefore, even before planting the seeds for seedlings, they must be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate, keeping them in it for about half an hour. During the growing season, carry out preventive spraying with garlic solution (1 teaspoon of substance per bucket of water), you can replace it with iodine (40 drops of iodine per bucket of water). Yeast version (100 grams of confectionery yeast per bucket of water).

Chemical:

Spray the bushes with the following preparations: Agat-25, Quadris, Strobi.

Alternaria (dry spotting).

Late blight - Alternaria blight, or dry spot - is no less harmful to tomatoes than late blight. The causative agent is a common fungus. Dry spotting manifests itself earlier than late blight; already after planting seedlings in open ground, the first symptoms can be noticed, although the growth of seedlings in a greenhouse also cannot serve as a guarantee that this disease will not affect the bushes there too.

All above-ground organs are affected, dry spots appear on tomato leaves, their shape is round, the borders are strongly pronounced. The spots on the fruit are brown, dark in color, they look pressed inward, and a black coating appears. Long, dry spots appear on the stem. Then the tomato leaves begin to turn yellow, which is not typical for late blight. This way you can distinguish between these two pathogenic conditions.

Prevention: plant residues, tops, leaves must be collected in the fall and burned, away from the garden. Do not plant bushes after: potatoes, peppers, eggplants and cabbage, observe crop rotation. The best predecessors are: perennial herbs, onions, legumes and cucumbers. Apply mineral fertilizers to the bushes; potassium should serve as their basis.

Chemicals: At the first symptoms, use fungicides: Gold MC 68WG (60 grams per 10 liters of liquid), Acrobat MC, Quadris, Thanos, Tattu. You need to start working at the first symptoms, and then systematically repeat spraying; up to 4 such procedures are carried out per season.

Anthracnose of tomatoes.

Only ripe and overripe fruits are susceptible to this disease. It can cause irreparable damage to a crop that was not harvested in time. The causative agent is the fungus Colletotrichum. Most often, anthracnose occurs in regions with high humidity; it is also harmful to other vegetable crops, such as potatoes, peppers and eggplants.

The fungus is found both in the soil and in other plants, weeds, biological residues, waking up after wintering, it is transferred with moisture, be it watering or ordinary rain. The suitable temperature for anthracnose activity is +22..+24C, and on very humid days, especially when moisture remains on the leaves for a long time.

Signs: Unfortunately, they appear only on ripe fruits, although the infection can live on a tomato, and you will not be able to detect it until the fruit is ripe and you remove it from the bush. First, small depressions appear on the tomato, round in shape, then as it progresses, rings appear. Cracks appear in damaged areas, infection re-enters there, and the rotting process worsens.

Prevention: Buy seeds from trusted manufacturers, if you are not sure of their quality, or collected them at home, carry out the disinfection procedure in potassium permanganate. Maintain crop rotation. Weed control. Do not flood the bushes with water, especially the leaves. Tie the plant to a support. Spraying with fungicides throughout the season, intermittently, will minimize the risk of anthracnose.

Septoria or white spot.

Septoria is dangerous and should not be neglected, because it can take away up to 50% of the harvest. The fungus mainly affects old leaves that grow closer to the ground. Brown spots appear on them, then their shape changes, and subsequently the leaf dries and falls off.

Good conditions for white spotting to flourish are considered to be high air humidity, as well as temperatures ranging from +15C to +27C. The pathogen lives in the remains of last year's harvest.

Prevention: Many tomato varieties are resistant to septoria, but you should still adhere to all standard procedures, harvesting all plant debris in the fall, crop rotation, and seed disinfection. Unfortunately chemical or folk remedies There are no products that could cope with white spotting in the active phase.

Gray rot of tomatoes.

One of the most dangerous diseases of tomatoes, sometimes destroys the harvest of entire farms. The peak activity of the fungus occurs during the fruiting season, especially in conditions of high humidity. If measures are not taken immediately, it will very quickly spread throughout the greenhouse, putting others at risk of becoming infected. vegetable crops growing in the neighborhood.

Symptoms of gray rot of tomatoes: first, the petiole breaks, fungi enter it, and spots of gray color with a brown tint form in the affected areas. As a rule, they appear in areas located close to the separation of the leaf from the stem. The spot rapidly grows in diameter, and within a few days reaches a size of 5 centimeters. Then the spot begins to fade until it becomes completely white with a slight yellow tint. Colonies developing inside the stem for a week block access to water supply to the fruits and leaves of tomatoes; they turn yellow, and then the plant begins to wither.

Protection methods: in fact, there are quite a lot of means, but unfortunately, they are often ineffective due to the late detection of the problem. There are several varieties and hybrids that are resistant to gray rot: “Pilgrim f1” and “Vasilievna f1”.

In greenhouses it is necessary to maintain low air humidity. Remove the crop from the stem very carefully, avoiding damage to it. Forming a bush and removing leaves is done with a sharp knife, and not during wet weather.

What to process:

Treatment with growth regulators during the growing season reduces the risk of disease by 50%.

Biological agents: in order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on tomatoes, the leaves can be treated with a trichodermin suspension, but first you need to tear off the infected foliage. The suspension can be used to treat lesions, cut points, and damaged bushes.

Chemical: they treat the planting after harvesting; it is necessary to fumigate both the planting substrate and the soil and elements of the greenhouse.

Prevention of gray rot in a greenhouse:

1. In May, treat all affected plants.
2. Repeat the procedure after 2 weeks.
3. In June-July, coat the stems of diseased plants a couple of times.
4. Late summer, if the disease has spread too much, treat the plant completely with a fungicide.
5. At the beginning of autumn, repeat the August procedure.

White rot.

White rot penetrates the fruit from small cracks and damage

The main danger of the harmful organism is during storage of fruits; at other times it is practically harmless. As a rule, colonies of fungi enter the plant in places of mechanical damage. Wet spots form on the fruits, in which rotting processes occur.

The source of contamination is soil and compost. For preventative purposes, they can be steamed. This is the main way to protect your crops from this disease. Therefore, never neglect disinfecting the soil and substrate before planting seedlings in it. Promptly harvest the crop from the bush, or from the ground if it has fallen.

Powdery mildew.

White coating is a sure sign of powdery mildew.

These tomato diseases are most dangerous for inhabitants of greenhouses with glass surfaces. Fortunately, from year to year, powdery mildew is becoming a less common problem for gardeners. There are several pathogens of powdery mildew, which is why there are different manifestations of the tomato disease.

1. A white coating appears on the leaves, but there is practically no change in water on the stems and roots.
2. Yellow spots appear on the leaf, then powdery plaque on the entire leaf, this type of powdery mildew occurs with insufficient watering and low temperatures.

There is only 1 hybrid that does not suffer from this disease - Milano f1.

Control and prevention: To reduce the risk of powdery mildew, it is necessary to constantly fight weeds, carry out disinfection measures in the greenhouse, and disinfect the soil or substrate in which seedlings are grown. When the first symptoms of the second type appear, it is necessary to increase the watering rate and carry it out using the sprinkling method. Eliminate the risk of drafts in the room. Before planting, the seeds are soaked in a solution of Epin or Immunocytophyte.

Biological:

To spray the bushes, use a 1% concentration of Baktofit solution; this is a good preventive agent. They begin to apply it after the first signs of powdery mildew; treatment should be repeated every two weeks, consumption is about 10 kilograms per hectare.

Chemical:

At the first signs of disease, treat the bushes with such preparations as: “quadris”, “topaz”, “strobi” (0.02%), “thiovit”, “cumulus”, “jet” (0.03%). If you frequently spray with these drugs, the fungus may develop immunity to them. Therefore, only spraying is carried out as a preventive measure, or once, after the first symptoms.

Verticillium wilt of tomatoes.

A fairly harmless disease, it does not cause significant damage to crops. It manifests itself in the form of chlorosis and necrosis on old leaves, followed by the death of the roots. Peak activity of the pathogen occurs during fruit set. First, the plant begins to wilt during the hottest hours of the day, and the leaves may fall off if no action is taken for a long time. Further symptoms appear on the shoots, the leaves remain only at the top, because of this the fruits can burn in the sun, they develop poorly, and the plant itself stops its growth.

Verticillium is often confused with fusarium, but this can be checked by looking at the vascular bundles on stem sections; they change color, but with fusarium they do not.

The development of pathology occurs at relatively low temperatures from +20C to +24C. At the same time, there is practically no spread on acidic soils; the fungus is found, as a rule, on alkaline and neutral soils.

Prevention: Compliance with the rules of crop rotation, sufficient watering, as well as good drainage of the site practically eliminate all risks. You can also cultivate varieties and hybrids resistant to this fungus.

Cladosporiosis (brown spot).

This fungus most often affects the leaves of tomatoes that grow in greenhouses or greenhouses, in open ground practically never occurs. A colony can live in soil for up to 10 months, while enduring sub-zero temperatures. Cladosporiosis is active during the growing season and flowering phase of tomatoes, in the form of light green spots in the lower part of the leaf. The most active phase occurs at the time of harvest ripening, with the main risk being the ripest fruits.

If you identify brown spot in your greenhouse in time, you will be able to save the harvest, otherwise many healthy bushes may suffer, the fungus spreads quickly. Ideal conditions for the development of cladosporiosis - humid and warm air +22..+25C, with 80% air humidity. With large fluctuations, the infection process starts.

Ways to fight:

• Humidity in the greenhouse should not exceed 70%.
• Constantly ventilate the room and stop sprinkling immediately after detecting the first symptoms of the disease.
• In winter, it is necessary to steam and freeze the soil before planting seeds for seedlings; it is also necessary to disinfect the soil and in.
• All biological residues after harvesting must be collected and burned.
• Maintain crop rotation.
• Do not thicken the plantings.
• To reduce soil moisture in conditions indoors, a black film is placed on it, this is also effective method getting rid of weeds.
• Watering should not be done in the afternoon; also know that it is better to water the bushes less often than to water them a little and often. After watering, be sure to ventilate the room.

After picking, when the seedlings take root in a new place, they are sprayed with copper oxychloride, or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Also, experienced gardeners recommend that in order to prevent the appearance of brown spot, the bushes are sprayed with biological preparations: “pseudobacterin-2”, “phytosporin-m”, “integral”.

When a disease is detected on tomatoes, they should be treated with fungicides with a wide spectrum of action: “HOM”, “poliram”, “abiga-pik”.

When the harvest is harvested, the soil in the greenhouse is treated with a solution of copper sulfate (1 cup per 10 liters of liquid). Coat all the structures and frame of the greenhouse with it.

Root rot.

Root rot is also often called blackleg. and for good reason.

Root rot, as a rule, affects tomatoes in greenhouse conditions; in open ground it is quite rare, only in overly waterlogged areas. The development of the disease occurs in parallel with the development of the plant. At the same time, crop losses are quite insignificant.

How it manifests itself: the bush exhibits blackening in the area of ​​the root collar and near the rhizome; this condition is often called a black leg. Then the process of withering begins, or the manifestation of other concomitant diseases.

Most often, the cause of blackleg is excessive watering and failure to carry out disinfection measures. The fungus lives in the soil, or substrate, sometimes on seeds.

In advanced cases, the bushes are sprayed with a drug called “rodomir gold” 0.25%.

Stem cancer or ascochyta blight.

Ascochyta blight in the photo

Interestingly, stem cancer manifests itself differently depending on the covering material. For example, in film greenhouses it can destroy almost the entire crop, but in glass greenhouses, ascochyta almost does not spread, and in open ground conditions it practically does not occur.

As a rule, stems suffer from cancer, leaves only in rare cases. New growths appear at the base of the stem, their color is brown, and liquid oozes from them. The flower stalks stop developing, and when the disease spreads to the fruit, the same spots form on it, and the process of mummification begins.

The disease develops in cool weather with high humidity. The pathogen lives in biological remains, as well as in seeds.

Prevention: for this it is necessary to disinfect the soil, then treat it with trichodermine. The bushes themselves are treated with the growth regulator “agate 25”, or “immunotsifit”. The spots or growths themselves are lubricated with a paste containing chalk and Rovral.

Fusarium wilt (fusarium wilt).

A very difficult disease to diagnose at an early stage. It would seem that all the standards have been met, the soil is sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged, all fertilizing was carried out on time, and the tomato leaves are withering, what to do in this case? How to fight the fungus that causes fusarium?

Signs:

The first thing, of course, is to be 100% sure of the diagnosis. Unfortunately, the fungus affects the plant at any stage of development, right up to planting seeds for seedlings. But symptoms appear only during the growing season, when flowering or even fruiting occurs. What to pay attention to:

• The lower leaves of the tomato begin to turn yellow and wilt.
• Then the process of yellowing of the leaves moves to the upper leaves.
• The stem vessels will have brown flowers when cut.
• Place the cut stem in a room with high humidity, and after a couple of days white mycelium will form at the cut site.

Causes:

1. Too frequent plantings in a small area.
2. Little light.
3. Short daylight hours.
4. There are deposits of water under the planting.
5. You didn't follow crop rotation.
6. Not proper watering.
7. Excess of chloride and nitrogen fertilizers.

Fighting fusarium:

1. Prevention: disinfection of the soil and seeds before planting. Implementation of a whole range of measures, excluding unfavorable factors, that is, timely and correct watering, ensuring high-quality lighting, etc.
2. Treatment when the disease has already manifested itself includes spraying with both biological and chemical preparations.

Resistant varieties: fj hybrids - “Raisa”, “Monica”, “Raspodia”, “Partner Semko”, “Sorento”. Hybrids f1: “charisma”, “Spartak”, “Ural”, “Vologda”. Variety - Blitz.

How to treat seeds when planting seedlings.

• Using a strong solution of potassium permanganate in hot water(+60C).
• Treat the seeds with a fungicide called strecar.
• You can use the drug "benazol", "fundazol".

It is also important to observe a 3-year crop rotation.

Crop rotation scheme

Treatment:

In the later stages, the mycelium clogs all the vessels, as a result of which the tomato dies from a fungal disease, and in this case it can no longer be cured. The effectiveness of the product is retained only in the initial stages.

Biological drugs:

• Trichodermin in the substrate for growing seedlings, approximately 2 grams of the drug per 1 seedling;
• Trichodermin in the soil 1 kilogram per 10 square meters.
• Water the tomatoes with “pseudobacterin” - 2, or “planriz”, prepare the solution following the instructions on the pack.

Chemicals:

Chemical agents are much more effective than biological ones in controlling fusarium on tomatoes, however, from the moment of spraying, eating the fruits for the next 3 weeks is strictly prohibited. What is better to use:

1. "Strekar."
2. "Benazol".
3. "Fundazol".

When lime and dolomite flour are added to the soil, the risk of Fusarium wilt is significantly reduced.

Southern late blight.

A very rare form, and it manifests itself only when the plantings are not properly cared for. First of all, the root collar suffers, it begins to turn black and deform, and then the process of rotting begins. Then the disease rises, leaving behind a white coating of mycelium.

The second option is the appearance on the fruits, dark spots appear on them, and the tomatoes gradually fall off the bushes.

Prevention: sterilize the soil, and also cut off the affected part of the bush. It can also be treated with the chemical preparation “pseudobacterin-2” during planting, and with a 0.01% solution of “sodium humate” after.

Bacterial diseases of tomato:

Bacterial mottling, why tomato leaves curl.

A rather rare and slightly harmful disease, it is noteworthy that it occurs almost only in open ground conditions. Visual manifestations of the disease are quite easy to guess almost immediately. They appear on the leaves in the form of small spots of an oily structure, later they acquire a brown color. Further Tomato leaves begin to curl and die.

The bacterial state develops best in a humid environment with low temperatures. The pathogen lives in seeds, as well as in plant debris and in the roots of weeds.

Treatment: treatment with fungicides containing copper, as well as the drug “Fitolavin-300”.

Bacterial cancer.

This disease rarely manifests itself on seedlings, so its activity must be waited until the beginning of fruiting. This is a rather formidable condition in which a summer resident may lose a third of his harvest. If humidity and temperature start to rise, the situation will get even worse.

Symptoms: The most common and indicative symptom will be the wilting of the bush, as a result of the clogging of the vessels by bacteria, the vessels themselves begin to turn black, and by this sign you can clearly make a diagnosis. At the initial stage, the wilting is one-sided, the one-sided leaf segments are the first to suffer, and the tomato leaf begins to curl upward. Further, small brown or red ulcers may appear in almost any part of the bush. The stems dry out and cracks appear from which infected liquid oozes. The withering process usually occurs from the bottom up.

Often the answer to the question why tomato leaves curl is because of bacterial cancer. This is one of the first manifestations of this disease.

Protection and prevention:

• Disinfection of the soil is necessary before planting both seeds and seedlings.
• There should always be fresh air in the greenhouse, so constant ventilation is a must. Also, when the first manifestations of bacteriosis occur, you should stop sprinkling.
• To restrain the development of the pathogenic process, it is necessary to reduce the concentration of the nutrient solution, as well as increase the acidity of the substrate.
• Crop rotation.
• Remove damaged plants and prevent them from coming into contact with healthy ones.
• If you work in a greenhouse where there are infected bushes, treat the healthy ones first, then treat the infected ones.
• Before planting, warm up the seeds according to Vovk.
• During the growing season, bushes are treated with fungicides that contain copper.

Bacterial wilt.

One of the most dangerous diseases is tomato. It is capable of destroying almost all the bushes planted on the site. Most often it develops in southern regions with a subtropical climate. It is very rare in the temperate and northern zones. Bacterial wilt often spreads to potatoes.

Symptoms:

1. Acute form. It proceeds almost at lightning speed, the bushes begin to wither and die. Unfortunately, this process is not accompanied by any signs.
2. Chronic. In this case, faint brown stripes can be seen on the leaves. Voids form in the stems and aerial roots. A process of growth arrest occurs. If you cut the stem, the yellowish rings are damaged vessels; if you press on them, liquid (bacterial) will ooze. The fruits are affected.

Photo of bacterial wilt of tomatoes.

The leaves turn yellow or turn light green, often this is a one-sided process.

Fighting methods:

Most often, the causative agent of the disease is stored on potatoes, and most often it is from the storage where the tubers are stored that the pathogens move to greenhouses. To avoid this, you must adhere to safety precautions. Do not work with the same equipment in the storage room and greenhouse, and do not wash shoes when moving from one room to another.

When the disease is already rampant, the infected bushes are removed at the root, and under neighboring plants (up to 10 meters) a solution of “Fitolavin - 300” (0.6%-1%), 200 milliliters of liquid per hole must be added to the soil. By adding 0.15% liquid glass to this solution, you will receive a spraying liquid that will create a film on the bush, which in turn will protect it from the spread of infection for 2 weeks.

Wet rot of the fruit.

Mostly wet rot occurs in open ground conditions; in greenhouse conditions it is practically harmless. The infection enters the fruit through small lesions.

Manifestation: the fruits begin to turn brown and become soft. A few days, and all that remains of the fruit will be the peel. The bacterium develops under conditions of sharp temperature fluctuations, high humidity, and hot weather of +30C and above.

Insects are carriers of the infection, so fighting them is considered the most effective means. Also cultivation of varieties resistant to wet rot.

Stem necrosis.

If you make mistakes while growing tomatoes, they are likely to develop stem necrosis. The most developed bushes are the first to suffer. Specks form on the stem Brown, after some time they begin to crack and the fruit begins to wither. The ideal temperature indicators for the development of the disease are considered to be +27C plus or minus one or two degrees. But temperatures above +40C are detrimental to bacteria.

The most common source of infection is untreated seeds.

A method of prevention would be to treat the seeds before planting, as well as proper care, as well as the cultivation of resistant hybrids and varieties: “red arrow”, “Resento f1”, “Maeva f1”.

Black bacterial spot.

A rather dangerous disease, the spread of which can result in the loss of the entire harvest. The causative agent of this disease of tomatoes, when black spots appear on them, is the rod-shaped bacterium Xanthomonas vesicatoria.

Symptoms: The first signs are small dark olive specks with an oily structure. Over time, they become darker and spread throughout the plant. Unlike late blight, the spots will not merge into one large one, but will fragment, which is more like a rash. Then the leaves begin to dry out and fall off, the fruits stop developing, and gradually it begins to rot.

Most often, the pathogen is found in the seeds, so it is necessary to carry out a disinfection procedure before planting seedlings. Regular soaking of seeds in hot water (+60C) for 20 minutes will be sufficient. The bacterium is able to penetrate the plant through mechanical damage and small cracks.

Suitable conditions for the development of bacterial black spot:

1. Air temperature from +25C to +30C.
2. High humidity, 75% and above. Moisture on the leaves is the main source of infection.

Methods of control and prevention:

Unfortunately, there are no tomato varieties and hybrids resistant to this disease yet. That's why Special attention must be given to prevent bacteria from entering the bushes. It is best to treat the seeds before planting with trisodium phosphate.

1. To do this, rinse the seeds, then put on gloves, and pour a small amount of the drug granules onto the seeds. Use this method when processing fresh seeds.
2. Processing of purchased seeds, dry. It is necessary to dissolve the drug in water at the rate of 12 grams per 100 milliliters of water. The soaking process will take about an hour. Next, wash them very thoroughly under running water; you can leave them under an open tap for 20 minutes.

Spraying with biological preparations at the height of the disease will not bring results. Among the chemical ones, copper-containing bactericides are used - 1% Bordeaux mixture, "HOM", "Oxychom".

On an industrial scale, on large farms, fields are sprayed with “acrobat” and “mancozeb”.

For the summer resident:

1. Remove the lower leaves on the bush after all the fruits have already set, and already in August you can remove almost all the leaves, leaving up to 5 top ones.
2. Do not allow plantings to thicken.
3. Affected leaves should be picked off immediately.
4. Crop rotation.

Viral diseases of tomato:

Aspermia (seedlessness).

In many ways, the harmfulness of the virus depends on its type, as well as on the strength of the infected plant, and the conditions external environment. The main manifestations of aspermia will be increased bushiness, a frail stem, and an underdeveloped generative organ. The flowers begin to grow together and change color, becoming small.

The virus is transmitted by insects and other pests. The control method will be to destroy all pests in the greenhouse.

Bronzing of tomato.

Quite a dangerous virus that becomes more and more harmful over the years. It is dangerous both for film shelters and for open ground. Sometimes, with serious atrocities of the virus, summer residents and farmers could lose their entire harvest.

Symptoms:

Young fruits are affected, rings appear on their upper part, and over time they become brown. After some time, the same pattern appears on the leaves. After a week and a half, the spots increase in size, and areas of chlorotic tissue form near them. Tissue death occurs around the rings.

Bronzing of a tomato on a leaf, photo

Thrips are often carriers of the virus. Sometimes the infection penetrates through mechanical damage.

1. Destruction of weeds at a distance of 15 meters from vegetable plantings.
2. Elimination of vectors, you can treat the area with insecticides.
3. Sticky traps will help reduce the number of thrips in the area.
4. Resistant varieties and hybrids: “Romatos”, “Senzafin f1”.

Yellow leaf curl.

Not a very terrible disease that can only harm the presentation of the fruit. The main manifestations are considered to be: falling flowers, while the fruits will be small and ribbed, not attractive in appearance. The leaves become very curly, turn yellow, and become smaller. The virus is not transmitted through seeds or sap. The only source of infection is whiteflies. Actually, the entire fight against yellow curl will consist of the fight against whiteflies.

A resistant hybrid to yellow curl is Senzafin f1.

Whitefly photo.

Fighting whiteflies and other flying insects in a greenhouse.

Small, flying insects are common sources of infection in greenhouses. Fight them important stage in the formation of a rich harvest.

It is effective to hang traps throughout the greenhouse and they are effective in eliminating the whitefly population. You can either buy them or make them yourself at home. To do this, you just need to take cardboard, cut it into pieces, and repaint it bright yellow. And cover the surface of the workpiece with a mixture: honey, rosin, and castor oil. And fasten it to the frame with a thread.

Bushiness of the top.

A fairly new and dangerous viral disease. It appears even in winter on seedlings. White dots form on the lower leaves near the veins. Further, they gradually grow and become brown in color. The central vein begins to coarse. Further tomato leaves begin to curl. The disease rises upward, the uppermost leaves begin to twist around the axis.

The virus spreads through seeds, as well as through mechanical damage, and is transmitted by pests, such as peach aphids.

Effective methods have not yet been developed, so it is necessary to immediately discard diseased seedlings and disinfect planting material before planting in pots.

Mosaic.

The causative agent of mosaic is the Tobacco mosaic virus. The disease is common both in greenhouse conditions and in open ground. Signs vary depending on the stage of development, external environment, and strain of the virus.

But most characteristic symptom They are light and dark areas in a chaotic order found on the fruit or leaf blade; there are also areas with normal color. The deformation of the leaf is also noticeable to the eye. Tomatoes may develop internal necrosis.

It is transmitted by mechanical contact and spreads with the sap of an infected plant. If it gets into wounds on a healthy bush during picking or other work in the garden or greenhouse. The infection persists in seeds, soil, and biological remains of plants. Insects can also be carriers.

Resistant varieties and hybrids: “Semko-99 or 98”. “Partner Semko”, “Zhenaros”, “Cunero”, “Belle”, “Madison”, “Sors”, “Anyuta”.

Proper and timely care of the plant, killing weeds and insects, can significantly reduce the risk of mosaic infection.

Threadiness of leaves.

A very dangerous disease that can completely destroy the crop. With it, the leaves are deformed, stretched, and become thin and thread-like. Flower ovaries do not appear on the bush. Sometimes the top of the plant dies. The disease is spread throughout the greenhouse by aphids. It transmits the infection from foci located nearby; the host plants of the virus can be: ornamental and weeds, as well as other cultivated plants and vegetable crops.

Blossom rot.

A rather rare disease occurs in a combination of genetic and agrotechnical factors. It manifests itself by the appearance of brown and white spots on green fruits. If a third of the fruit is damaged by necrosis, the summer resident will observe black spots on them. Most often, varieties with large tomatoes on the ovaries suffer. There are many factors that trigger the mechanism of blossom end rot, among them the following can be distinguished:

• Lack of calcium ions.
• Incorrectly prepared soil mixture.
• Soil acidity ph is less than 6 units.
• Fever.

Resistant varieties "f1 bolero".

Hollowness of the fetus.

The seeds are cooled in the fruit. However, hollowness does not carry any other harm. Occurs as a result of a number of factors, the main culprit is a sudden change in temperature, or improper care during the setting of tomatoes, or the absence of pollinators.

There are a number of resistant varieties.

Stolbur or phytoplasmos.

It is most often found in open ground; it is very difficult to find it in film and glass shelters.

Symptoms: a mutation of the plant occurs, manifested in the compaction of the root bark and a change in its color to brown, the fruits become dense, the leaves become smaller. If infection occurs in the early stages of growth, such a bush will lag far behind its neighbors in size. If the fruits have time to ripen, they will be hard and tasteless; sometimes it is possible to save up to 70% of the harvest, but the next generation will be completely infected, so it is impossible to use the seeds the next year, when there was an epidemic of table borer in the greenhouse.

Cicadas spread the disease; outbreaks of the disease are especially common in dry and hot weather.

Control methods: eliminating leafhoppers.

How to deal with leafhoppers.

Get rid of weeds, it often hides there. Spray the plantings with tobacco dust and garlic tincture. Pennies are very sensitive to chemicals, for example: foliar spraying with a 30% solution of karbofos. After treatment, the plants must be sprinkled with wood ash, 30 grams per bush.

How to protect tomatoes from diseases.

Agricultural technology:

1. Do crop rotation.
2. Steam and disinfect the soil.
3. Remove all biological debris after harvesting.
4. Choose resistant varieties and hybrids for planting.
5. Weed and pest control.

Biological substances:

1. Trichodermin. From powdery mildew 8 liters per hectare. If it is necessary to overcome late blight, Alternaria, add “Gaupsin” 5 liters per hectare, and 5 liters per hectare of tank mixture.
2. Pseudobacterin-2. Against: root rot, blackleg, late blight, and brown spot. Spraying before planting, as well as twice during the growing season. 100 milliliters for each bush.
3. Phytocid-R. Against fungi and bacteria, as well as to strengthen the immune system. Treatment before sowing per 100 grams of seeds: 5 ml per half liter of liquid. For soaking seedlings - 10 milliliters per 3 liters of liquid. Treatment during the growing season - 7 milliliters per 10 liters of liquid, once every week and a half, four times in total.

Chemical substances:

1. Quadris s.k. (azaxystrobin active ingredient, 250 g/l). Against late blight, alternaria, and powdery mildew, use the instructions for use.
2. Ridomil Gold MC, v.d.g. (a.v. mancozeb + mefenoxam, 640 + 40 g/kg). The targets of the attack are late blight and alternaria. Treatment four times per season.
3. Rincozeb. Goals: late blight, alternaria, three times per season.
4. Strobe. The target is late blight and powdery mildew.

That's all, we have described to you all the tomato diseases that you may encounter when working in the garden or in film shelters. As you can see, there are methods to combat them, and they are very effective. Only in some cases can the battle for the harvest be lost without a chance of victory. Use all available methods, and you will not be afraid of any diseases; we wish you success in this difficult struggle.

Gardeners are faced with all sorts of diseases every year. One of them is crown rot. Perhaps this is one of the most common problems associated with growing and harvesting crops.

Let's figure out whether this disease is so scary and what methods of fight are offered by science and.

Why is it dangerous and where does it come from?

The disease primarily affects young bushes that are just beginning to bear fruit. The problem is rather physiological in nature and is often not associated with infections. Sometimes blossom end rot is also caused by bacteria. The disease does not kill the entire plant. Affected tomato fruits should not be eaten.

Both tomatoes growing in open ground and tomatoes are susceptible to the disease.

The cause of the disease is most often incorrect. The fact is that when the fruits ripen, tomatoes need to be grown regularly. If there is a lack of moisture during the period of active development and the beginning of fruiting, the plant experiences water stress.

As a result, the leaves begin to draw moisture onto themselves, including taking moisture from the fruits. This causes rot to appear. Despite the fact that the crop is quite undemanding in terms of moisture, abundant moisture is still needed during fruit ripening. The problem may also be caused by the formation of a crust in the upper layers of the earth.

In this case, the moisture simply does not reach the roots. Frequent watering, but in small portions, also leads to the appearance of blossom end rot.

Excess and lack of calcium in the soil also causes the disease. Excess nitrogen can occur when tomatoes are overfed, for example, with liquid. Calcium may cease to be absorbed by the root system of plants at very high temperatures.

Salty or also provoke the disease. In such soil, calcium becomes poorly accessible to the plant.

The bacterial type of infection with crown rot most often occurs due to the owner’s oversight. Caused by bacteria Bacillus mesentericus, Bacterium licopersici, etc., if ripening fruits lie on the ground. Insects can become carriers of bacterial diseases.

Signs of damage to tomatoes

If dark gray or brownish spots appear on the tomatoes at the top of the fruit, if they seem to be flattened, then the bush is affected by blossom end rot.

A dark putrid spot appears on the fruit at the point where the flower was. Over time it increases in size and dries out. Symptoms often appear on fruits at the beginning of ripening.

How to deal with blossom end rot on tomatoes

The best option to combat any disease is its prevention. But if it was not possible to prevent the occurrence, then treatment should be started.

The causes of blossom end rot in tomatoes have already been discussed, and we will also look at measures to combat the disease.

Prevention and agricultural technology

Tomato blossom end rot can also affect the seeds used for planting, and a measure such as prevention will help combat negative manifestations during the ripening process.

The primary method of prevention is timely, even watering of plants.. Try to avoid sudden fluctuations in humidity. The next day, loosen the soil with. The top layer of soil should remain loose. Try not to damage the roots of the tomatoes when loosening. Covering the soil with a layer can also be very helpful.

Tomato beds must be cleared of weeds.

If tomatoes grow in or, keep an eye on temperature conditions. In case of overheating, the inflow should be increased fresh air. Monitor the microclimate. Sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity are undesirable.

Important! Tomatoes in greenhouses are more susceptible to blossom end rot than in open ground..

Also, do not get carried away with overfeeding plants. Follow the dosage and frequency of application indicated on the label. If you feed or, keep an eye on the solution. He must be weak. It is enough to feed two or three times during the season.

Another method of protection is the procedure "bubbling".

To do this, the seeds are immersed in water and oxygen is passed through it. To do this, you can use a small aquarium compressor. Oxygen bubbles should be small. To achieve this, use a spray bottle or pass the gas through cheesecloth. “Bubbling” lasts eighteen hours, after which the seeds are thoroughly dried.

Drugs for protection

• To increase overall disease resistance, it is recommended to treat the seeds with any before planting.

• You can treat the seeds with a half percent manganese solution.

• You can also use a solution or a one percent solution of zinc sulfate to treat seeds. Solution succinic acid prepared at the rate of 17 ml of substance per liter of water. In both cases, the seeds are kept in the solution for at least a day.

• For foliar feeding of tomatoes, it is good to use limestone nitrate Ca(NO3)2. The solution is prepared at the rate of 5–10 g of substance per 10 liters of water. The leaves of the plant are watered with fertilizer no more than twice a week.

• During the period of active fruit growth, it will be useful to spray the leaves with a solution of calcium chloride CaCl2. The solution is prepared at the rate of 3–4 g of substance per 10 liters of water. Feeding is carried out no more than twice a week.

• You can feed it with lime milk Ca(OH)2. The solution is prepared at the rate of 1 g of substance per 10 liters of water. Fertilizing is done by spraying on the leaves once or twice a week.

• A good remedy is to apply universal fertilizers for nightshades, subject to dosages. You can highlight the drug “Nutrivant PLUS”. Its combination with the Fertivant additive gives very good results. The solution is prepared at the rate of 25–30 g per 10 liters of water.

If blossom end rot has already appeared on tomatoes, let’s look at what needs to be done. First of all, you should get rid of the affected fruits. It is recommended to pick them from the bush and destroy them away from the beds with plants.

– the disease is quite complex, and the process of its treatment will give positive results only with the use of special drugs.

One of the most common diseases of tomatoes is late blight. Its manifestation is characterized by the formation of hard spots on the fruits, which extend to the pulp of the fruit.

For greater protection against diseases, hybrid varieties of tomatoes should be grown, as they are less susceptible to diseases. Control measures Methods of combating late blight include spraying with Zaslon.

After the plants have been treated with a “barrier”, they should be treated with the “Barrier” product, which also helps protect against late blight. Tomatoes affected by late blight

It is necessary to use “Barrier” in a ratio of 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. An undeniable effect can also be obtained from the drug "Oxychom", it is produced in tablets, they must be used at the rate of 2 tablets per 10 liters of water. This drug should be used before flowering begins and when signs appear indicating that the plant has become infected with late blight.

Apical rot Another disease that tomatoes often suffer from is blossom end rot. Its signs are deep spots, black or shiny, and as a result, the tomatoes rot right on the bush.

Sometimes the appearance of blossom end rot is accompanied by watery areas with a distinct smell of rot. The root cause of the disease is a lack of moisture, as well as a large amount of calcium and nitrogen in the soil. Control measures

Methods to combat this disease include abundant watering. Spraying with calcium nitrate is considered a good way to eradicate the disease. When fighting the disease, it is necessary to destroy infected fruits by burning. Leaf mold

Tomatoes grown in film greenhouses often develop leaf mold, the symptoms of which are leaves with a velvety brown coating on the inside of the leaf. This plant disease is easily transferred to human clothing, during watering, and also persists on fallen leaves and in the soil.

Control measures Methods to combat leaf mold are reducing the amount of water during irrigation and disinfecting greenhouses.

It is also recommended to treat the plants with a solution of 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and 10 liters of water; in this solution it is possible to replace copper sulfate with 3 tablespoons of ammonia sulfur. And at intervals of one week, treat with the “Barrier” preparation.

Different stages of mosaic virus infection Mosaic Mosaic is a disease that affects not only greenhouse tomatoes, but also tomatoes outdoors.

Signs of mosaic virus include leaf wrinkling, accompanied by the appearance of yellow-green spots. Mosaic eventually leads to the complete death of the plant, so this problem should be taken seriously. Control measures

Mosaics should be combated by burning the affected plants, and for prevention it is necessary to spray the plants with skim milk. To avoid this infection, before sowing, you need to treat the seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate, at the rate of 1 gram of potassium permanganate per 100 grams of water.

Then the seedlings are watered with a solution of the same composition, but you need to mix 1 gram of permanganate solution with 10 liters of water. It should also be understood that pinching should be carried out without contact with the sap of the plant, since the sap is the source of the spread of the disease.

It is recommended to grow hybrid varieties due to the fact that they are less susceptible to this infection. Brown spot Brown spot is considered the most harmful disease found in tomatoes grown in greenhouses.

It is accompanied by the appearance of light gray spots on the underside of the leaves. Gradually, spots begin to appear on the upper side of the leaf. Factors under which the disease begins to progress at a rapid pace are temperatures of 20-25 degrees and high humidity.

Control measures You should fight it using foundationazole, and you should stop watering and pick ripened tomatoes. Gray rot

Gray rot is a fungal disease that affects fruits that become covered with spots, and at any stage of ripening. The disease is usually detected during the rainy seasons.

Its symptoms are very similar to those of late blight, but unlike it, the causative agent of gray rot can be any plant grown on the site. Control measures

To combat gray mold, it is necessary to spray plants with fungicides and “Barrier”, and it is also necessary to remove all affected plant organs: fruits, leaves, stems, etc. Root rot

Another disease common in greenhouse tomatoes is root rot. The plant begins to lose its stamina and gradually fades. Cucumbers often suffer from the same disease; it is for this reason that it is not recommended to plant tomatoes in place of cucumbers and vice versa.

Control measures Before planting tomatoes, you should disinfect the soil; this advice is especially relevant if you grew cucumbers in this place. Disinfection is carried out using a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

This replaces the top layer of soil. Sick tomato bushes should be treated with Zaslon solution and sprinkled with Barrier. Brown rot or Phoma Brown rot, second name - fomosis.

This is another type of fungal disease that only affects tomato fruits. This fungus appears as a large spot at the base of the fruit stalk.

The disease occurs in the initial and final stages of maturation. Fruits that are diseased in the green state, as a rule, do not ripen because the tomatoes fall off. The infection penetrates deep into the fruit, thereby affecting the internal tissue of the tomato. Control measures

When fighting Phoma, it is necessary to remove and burn fruits affected by the fungus, and you should also refuse to improve the soil with manure. It is recommended to treat the plants with foundationazole and disinfect the soil. Medvedka Tomato pests

Tomato pests include mole crickets, caterpillars, whiteflies and wireworms. Mole crickets most often appear in areas close to water bodies, as well as in well-moistened areas fertilized with manure.

The mole cricket is a brown insect, about 5 centimeters long, with pronounced elytra and legs designed for digging the soil. The mole cricket, as a rule, lives at a depth of up to twenty centimeters, where it lays eggs, usually up to 300 pieces, then larvae form from the eggs.

Many other useful crops in our gardens are also susceptible to attacks by this insect. Control measures It is possible and necessary to fight mole crickets; this is done with a solution consisting of 3 glasses of vinegar per 10 liters of water.

You can use the drug "Thunder" in accordance with the instructions. The solution is poured into the holes, they are clearly visible on the soil surface.

For each hole, 0.5 liters of solution is needed. Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles, they are yellowish in color and up to 20 mm long, they harm the roots of the tomato, sometimes penetrate the stem and destroy the plant from the inside. Wireworm They fight wireworms in a very cunning way.

Using bait, so to speak, in the form of pieces of raw potatoes strung on sticks, these sticks are buried in the ground to a depth of 20 cm, after three weeks of staying in this form, the sticks should be pulled out and burned along with the wireworms, of which there will be a lot on the potatoes. It is worth noting that the sticks should stick out of the ground during the entire procedure, so their length should be about 30 cm.

The drug “Bazudin” copes well with these pests. It is usually mixed with sand; wood sawdust can serve as an alternative to sand. This mixture is buried shallowly in the soil next to the plant.

Gnawing cutworms Gnawing cutworms are a type of caterpillar that harms all cultivated plants found in our gardens, tomatoes and cucumbers especially suffer from them. These caterpillars reach a length of 40 mm.

Their color can be very different: velvety black, earthy gray. Control measures These pests are destroyed by spraying with the drug “Strela” at the rate of 50 grams per 10 liters of water.

With the help of this effective drug, plants not only get rid of rodents, but also receive a kind of foliar fertilizer Personal safety rules when using plant preparations against garden pests

Mosaic

Tomato mosaic is a very unpleasant disease caused by viruses, often leading to crop loss and death of bushes.

• Changes in the shape and color of leaves. The appearance of yellowish-green spots. Inhibition of the plant, which leads to a decrease in tomato yield, yellowing and subsequent drying.
• Removing and burning affected plants. Preliminary seed dressing for half an hour in a one percent solution of potassium permanganate. Watering the seedlings with the same solution several times a day at intervals of 3 weeks.
• Treat seedlings with a solution of skim milk every ten days. It is done like this: 1 liter of milk is diluted in ten liters of water with the addition of a teaspoon of urea. For sowing, 2-3 year old seeds are preferable. The disease is transmitted through plant sap. Therefore, you do not need to touch it when planting tomatoes. It is better to choose mosaic-resistant varieties and hybrids. Early sowing of seeds.

Gray rot of tomato fruits

This is a disease caused by fungi. Damage to tomato fruits usually occurs at the very end of the growing season, when cold weather and rain arrive.

• The appearance of small round spots, which over time begin to increase and secrete a brown liquid. The appearance of gray mold on the stems, leaves and flowers of the plant.

If you notice gray rot When growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to do the following:

• Remove affected fruits and other plant organs; Increase the temperature; Spray diseased tomatoes with preparations such as Fundazol, “Barrier” or “Barrier”.

Tomato root rot

It is characterized by withering of plants, as their root collar begins to rot. This disease can also affect cucumbers.

• Disinfection of soil using a solution of copper sulfate. Removing the diseased top layer of soil in the greenhouse and adding fresh soil. Treatment with “Barrier” and “Barrier”.

This is a disease caused by fungi. It only affects fruits ( on the picture).

• A small brown spot appears at the base of the fruit. Green tomatoes break off and then fall.
• Do not feed plants with fresh manure and big amount nitrogen. Soil disinfection. Collection and destruction of affected fruits.

Macrosporiosis or dry spotting

• The appearance of rather large brown spots. The death of heavily affected leaves. Dark spots at the base of the fruit. The appearance of a black velvety coating.

Control measures are the same as for late blight.

Cracking of tomato fruits

This is not an infectious, but a physiological disease. The reason is to water the plant in a drought with a large amount of liquid at once. There is a rapid entry of water into the fruit and rupture of the tissue cell walls.

• If you grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, then in hot weather you should spray it with a solution of lime. In addition to the above diseases, which you can see in the photo, tomatoes are often affected by insect pests. The mole cricket is a fairly large (up to 5 centimeters) brown insect that has large paws with which she can dig. She loves moist soil rich in manure.
• Infusion of infusion of hot pepper or table vinegar into the pest's burrows.

Wireworms

Wireworms are yellow caterpillars that can damage the roots and stems of tomatoes.

• Sticks will help get rid of this pest. You need to string vegetables on them and bury them in the ground so that the tips of the sticks stick out. After a few days, the sticks in which the wireworms have accumulated need to be pulled out and burned. When the soil in the greenhouse is dug up, the wireworms should be collected and destroyed. Their number can also be reduced by liming the soil and applying mineral fertilizers.

Whiteflies and cutworms

Whiteflies are also quite common insects in the greenhouse. Their larvae are capable of sucking juices from the leaves, and over time this can lead to tomatoes dying. Control measures are treatment with Phosbecid or Citcor. Gnawing cutworms are gray or black caterpillars that can greatly damage tomatoes. To protect your crops grown in the greenhouse, you need:

• Destroy weeds. Collect caterpillars. Treat plants and their fruits with Strela.

As you can see, it is not difficult to get rid of diseases; it is enough to know the methods of combating them. And then tomatoes will delight you with their juicy and healthy fruits.

Tomato diseases

"" mushroom tomato disease, causing significant harm both in open ground and in greenhouses. With this illnesses All tops and fruits of tomatoes are affected. Brown spots appear on the top of the leaves and a white coating underneath.

Dark brown spots form on the fruits, which very quickly affect the entire fruit. Tomato late blight disease can occur at any stage of plant development.

The main source of infection is usually rotting plant remains that were not removed from the rows in time, or nearby infected potato plantings. The disease can be especially severe at the end of summer, due to increased atmospheric humidity and a sharp change in night and day temperatures.

The best way to combat the tomato late blight disease and prevent its occurrence is, of course, to observe crop rotation (do not plant tomatoes constantly in one place), pre-sowing seed treatment, timely application of mineral fertilizers (especially phosphorus and potassium) and treatment with the "Barrier" preparation. A good effect in the treatment of this tomato disease is achieved by spraying the plants with the following solution: dilute 200 g of garlic cloves, minced through a meat grinder, in 10 liters of water and add 1-1.5 g of potassium permanganate.

Use 2 liters for 6-8 bushes. "Top Rot of Tomatoes" The disease usually affects fruits when tomatoes are grown in greenhouses.

High temperature, rare weak watering and lack of nutrients(primarily calcium) become the main cause of the occurrence and development of this disease. First, a dark green spot appears on top of the green fruit, then it changes color to brown and hardens.

Affected tomato fruits ripen quickly, but become unsuitable for food. Sometimes this disease does not manifest itself externally, but is discovered later, when the fetus is cut open. Methods of combating the disease "Top rot".

Provide tomatoes with regular moderate watering, especially during fruit formation. During hot weather, ventilate the greenhouse. When preparing the soil, add fluff lime at the rate of 2 tbsp. spoons in a bucket.

"Tomato brown spot" This is the most dangerous disease that affects plant leaves. Initially, light gray spots appear on the underside of the lower leaves, gradually moving onto top part leaf, and then the entire bush of the plant is quickly captured, it soon dries out.

The spores of this fungal disease are easily transferred to neighboring plants. Methods of combating brown spot of tomatoes. To treat tomatoes, use the drug "Hom".

To prepare a solution, dissolve 40 g in 10 liters of water. Spray tomatoes when signs of disease are detected. Repeated treatment cannot be done earlier than a week later.

Select hybrids for planting that are resistant to this disease. "Fusarium wilt of tomatoes“The disease begins with the withering of the lower leaves. After some time, it first affects the entire shoot, then the entire plant, which withers and dies.

The spread of "Fusarium wilt" occurs through the vessels of the tomato. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus "Rusarium", which is activated and develops when the soil temperature rises to 22-25 degrees and the nitrogen content in the soil increases.

It can survive in the soil for several years. Infection occurs from the soil along the roots of the plant. Method of combating Fusarium of tomatoes. Mandatory soil disinfection in the greenhouse.

For disinfection, use a solution of 40 g of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water. Hill up tomatoes to a height of 12-15 cm. Fertilizing plants with Agricola fertilizer: 40-50 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying with Hom solution: 40 g of the drug per 10 liters of water.

Use 1 liter of solution per 10 square meters of area. "Root Rot" With this tomato disease, the root collar of the plant rots, the bush quickly withers due to the cessation of the supply of moisture and nutrients.

The disease enters plants when mechanical damage occurs to the trunk or root collar of a tomato during transplantation or loosening of the soil. When planting seedlings, add 1 teaspoon of Agricola No. 3 fertilizer to the hole. Mandatory hilling of tomatoes to form additional roots.

More posts on the topic

Diseases and pests of tomatoes (tomato)

Posted on July 29, 2013 by Farmer without hassle in Vegetable garden // 0 Comments Tomatoes, tomato diseases, tomato diseases, methods of combating tomato diseases, late blight of tomatoes, septoria of tomatoes, effective methods of combating tomato diseases, blossom end rot of tomatoes The tomato is one of our housewives’ favorite vegetables, and how nice it is to make a fresh salad with fresh homemade tomatoes in the summer... But sometimes they interfere with getting a decent harvest, they are very similar to diseases of cucumbers These diseases will be discussed in this article. We will try to sort out the most common tomato diseases (tomato diseases) and methods of dealing with them..

tomato disease "Mosaic" The causative agent of mosaic - Tobacco mosaic virus(tobacco mosaic virus, VTM), a pathogen with a very broad phylogenetic specialization. The disease is widespread in open and protected ground.

Symptoms vary depending on the strain, phase of infection and environmental conditions. Neither greenhouse plants nor those already planted in the ground are immune from this disease Symptoms: Well, it’s easy to guess from the name that the main symptom is multi-colored patterns on the leaves (yellowish-green spots, alternating light and dark spots), the leaves curl and become covered with wrinkles. As a result, the plant has a sickly appearance and produces a very meager harvest. Control methods and prevention : Sick plants are removed from the garden bed and burned.

Before planting, seeds should be treated in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 25-30 minutes. To prevent problems with mosaics, it is worth taking 2-3 year old seeds for planting. It is recommended to sow seeds of varieties for open ground directly into nutrient pots without picking.

Late blight of tomatoes.

This is a fungal disease that usually affects tomato varieties for open ground. Symptoms of tomato late blight Brown spots appear on the stem and leaves, and a white coating appears on the bottom of the leaf. And brown spots appear on the tomatoes themselves.

Methods of control and prevention of late blight

20 days after we planted the seedlings in a permanent place, they are treated with the “Zaslon” solution (3 caps per 1 liter of water). After 20 days after the first treatment, a second treatment is carried out with the environmentally friendly drug “Barrier” (a product for reducing the incidence of late blight): take 5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water and spray (strain the solution). When the third flower cluster blooms, spraying diseased plants with a garlic solution is effective .

Take a glass of garlic cloves, pass through a meat grinder, dilute in 10 liters of water (25 ° C), add 1 g of potassium permanganate, spend 0.5 liters per 1 m2. The drug oxychome is also recommended against this disease - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water . Plants are treated prophylactically before flowering, as well as when the first signs of the disease appear.

Blossom rot of tomatoes.Symptoms: On tomatoes that are still green, sunken spots appear, dry, dark in color, or maybe watery with a typical rotten smell. Since the main cause of the disease is lack of moisture, the main advice to combat this disease would be regular watering. tomatoes, spraying infected plants with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), as well as exterminating infected plants.

Brown spot.

The disease is also known as "leaf mold" As a rule, greenhouse plants in film greenhouses are susceptible to the disease. But in the southern regions it is also found in open ground. Symptoms: Brown spots with a gray coating on the back of the leaf, the leaves dry out and the plants die, the disease is easily transferred to neighboring healthy ones tomatoesControl methods and prevention: Mold develops in conditions of high humidity, when watering with cold water at night.

So, at the first symptoms, it is worth adjusting the humidity and temperature in the greenhouse to a more favorable level and reducing watering. For prevention, it is recommended to carry out disinfection after each harvest: dilute 1 glass of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water and sprinkle both old plants and the soil and roof.

Gray rot of tomato fruits. Gray mold is a fungal disease that usually affects fruits at the end of the growing season, when the weather is cooler and more humid.

Symptoms: Small round spots appear on tomatoes, then they increase in size and brown dots and watery spots appear on them. This disease is very easy to confuse with late blight

Spots can be not only on fruits but also on leaves, stems... Control methods and prevention: Removing infected plants, cultivating the soil, and increasing the temperature (if possible) Phoma (brown rot) of tomatoes. A fungal disease that affects only tomato fruits.

Symptoms: A small brown spot (3-4 cm in diameter) appears at the base of the fruit. At first glance, there’s nothing wrong with it, but it’s worth knowing that not only the skin, but also the inside of the fruit can rot.

Control methods and prevention: Do not create excessive humidity and do not overuse fertilizing with fresh manure and excess nitrogen. Disinfect the soil and treat the plants. Infected plants should also be destroyed. Root rot of tomatoes.

As a rule, plants that are kept in reinforced greenhouses are susceptible to this disease. Symptoms: Infected plants wither, accompanied by rotting of the root collar; this disease is dangerous because it spreads to both tomatoes (tomatoes) and cucumbers. Therefore, it is dangerous to plant tomatoes after cucumbers and vice versa. Control methods and prevention: If you still decide to plant after cucumbers tomatoes, then it is strongly recommended to disinfect the soil with a solution of copper sulfate and, if possible, remove the diseased top layer of soil and add fresh one.

Stem rot of tomatoes. Infection usually occurs on stems at or above the soil surface. Symptoms: Damaged dark brown areas appear at the very base of the plant.

Which over time will increase and cover all the bases of the stem, which in turn will lead to shedding of leaves. Cracking tomatoes.

A very common tomato disease, there is nothing terrible about it, unless of course you are chasing the aesthetic appearance of the fruit. Is not infection but physical. Causes: Sudden change in soil moisture.

Basically this is when caring owner or the housewife in dry weather waters the bushes with a large amount of water overnight. The fruits quickly absorb moisture and the tomato tissue, unable to withstand the stress, cracks.

As a rule, green fruits are more susceptible to this problem. Control methods and prevention: Water moderately at intervals. You can also wrap the fruits with special covering material.

Pests of tomatoes (tomato).

Omnivorous insect up to 50 mm in length. Most often it is found in damp places near water bodies and in places with soil well fertilized with manure. The mole cricket damages not only tomatoes, but also cucumbers, beets, carrots, cabbage and potatoes.

Diseases of roses. Gray and root rot

Fighting methods: The most effective drug is "Thunder". You can also use an infusion of hot pepper: take 150 g of pepper or 2-3 glasses of table vinegar per 10 liters of water, pour 0.5 liters of infusion into each hole. Click beetle larvae.

The caterpillars are yellow, up to 20 mm long, very dense. They mainly damage root system, and also penetrate inside the stem.

Fighting methods: To destroy wireworms in an area intended for planting tomatoes, 3-4 days before planting, bury pieces of raw potatoes, carrots, beets, strung on sticks 16-17 cm long, into the soil to a depth of 10-12 cm. The ends of the sticks should stick out of the ground. .

After 2-3 days, the sticks, along with pieces of vegetables and accumulated wireworms, are pulled out and burned. Wireworms must be collected when digging the garden and must be destroyed. Liming of acidic soils and the application of mineral fertilizers reduce their numbers.

In the fight against wireworm larvae, the drug “Bazudin” is used. This powder is mixed with sand or sawdust and dug into the soil near the plants. The well-known and hated beetle is proudly called Colorado by the common people.

It is known primarily as a pest of potatoes, but it can also be found on tomatoes, but fortunately it is rare. The danger is mainly for greenhouse plants, but in the southern regions it is also found in open ground. This is a tiny insect approximately 1-1.5 mm long.

It has a yellow body and white wings. Their larvae have a flat, light green body. They stick to the leaves and eat them. Fighting methods: