Malfunctions of whirlpool washing machines. Repair of the Whirlpool washing machine (Whirlpool) Electrical circuit of the Whirlpool washing machine 231

Today in almost every apartment building can be found washing machine Whirlpool brand, and more than one. Both assemblies are common in our country: Slovakia and Italy. The latter are bought less frequently and are more expensive, but machines assembled in Slovakia can be found in all household appliance stores.

Perhaps exactly European standards assemblies helped Whirlpool machines establish themselves as machines of high quality and enviable durability. That is why repairs are rarely required, but if breakdowns do occur, repairs are often required washing machines Whirlpool (Whirlpool) can be done with your own hands.

Typical Whirlpool machine failures

If you list everything thoroughly possible breakdowns SMA, we will be forced to write a whole manual in 10 volumes. Therefore, we will focus only on malfunctions that are typical for this brand.

The most common failures:

• After washing, the water remains in the tank.
• Washing modes freeze, do not start at all, or programs run incorrectly.
• All washing modes are carried out in cold water.
• The SMA leaks in the manhole area.

Important! These seemingly harmless faults may hide serious damage. They need to be eliminated immediately so as not to completely break the SM.

The most vulnerable parts of Whirlpool machines

Based on the problems described above, we can identify the most vulnerable areas of Whirlpool washing machines. Many modern models have a self-diagnosis system that, using a fault code, will tell you which part has failed.

But what to do if the machine does not turn on at all, and there is nothing that could help you find out the cause of the breakdown? Listen to the advice of experienced repairmen, they are sure that the most vulnerable parts in a Whirlpool machine are:

1. Thermoelectric heater – heating element.
2. The engine and its moving elements.
3. Hatch cuff, pipes.
4. Controller (control module).

Attention! Whirlpool machines, like any other machines, suffer from blockages. Both filters and hoses become clogged. If you carry out cleaning in a timely manner (3-4 times a year), you can avoid breakdowns of the water drain and fill system.

You are probably familiar with the situation when you loaded the laundry into the tank, selected a convenient washing mode, went about your business in the kitchen, then came to get the laundry, and there was a disaster. The machine is malfunctioning: it is full of water and foam, the wash has not finished, the laundry is wet.

You restart the program, but everything is in a circle - the washing program is not executed because the water remains in the drum. This problem is caused by one of three factors:

• Debris has accumulated in the water drain pipe or drain filter.
• A clogged drain hose or a blockage in the sewer system.
• Failure of the electric drain pump (pump).

However, before you devote time to finding the causes of the failure, prepare your SMA for this:

1. Turn off the power.
2. Manually drain any water remaining in the drum. This can be done quickly using the emergency drain hose - it is usually located near the water drain filter.
3. Place a container or place a rag on the floor and waste water will flow out there.

• Place a cloth or container under the hatch behind which the filter is located.
• Unscrew the plug counterclockwise.
• Clean and rinse the unit under the tap.
• Put everything back in place.
• Twist the drain hose, clean and rinse it, and install it in place.

It doesn't hurt to check the drain for blockages.

To carry out all the steps, you do not need to know how to disassemble a Whirlpool washing machine - this is an easy job that any user can do.

If your actions did not help get rid of the problem, the drainage system is clean, there is no blockage in the sewer, and the washing machine still does not drain water from the tank, it will still have to be disassembled. The real cause of the breakdown may be hidden in the pump and drain pipe.

Important! Almost all Whirlpool models are designed in such a way that the pump and pipe can only be reached from the bottom. You'll have to turn the car on its side.

How to find, check and clean the pump and pipe:

This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of loading. The design of the top-loading Whirlpool washing machine is somewhat different from that of conventional washing machines, but the problem with it must be solved according to the same scheme.

Often, after starting the washing machine, the control panel begins to behave inappropriately: the display blinks, and all the LEDs blink along with it. The program you have chosen may also not work.

If this is your case, then immediately turn off the SM and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem persists, you should call a technician, since the control module is damaged, and repairing it yourself is almost impossible. You will need not only a diagram of the control module of the Whirlpool washing machine, but also experience in such repairs.

If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash clothes well, then you can determine the breakdown without the help of special devices and carry out independent repairs.

The most likely reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor) , but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements together. Next, follow this simple procedure:

With such a problem, the breakdown will most likely be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.

Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly determine the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots appear on it. If there is just a little scale, then the heating element may not have burned out, but if the water stone is 1 cm thick or more, the breakdown is obvious.

You can easily change the heating element with your own hands as follows:

1. The contacts and wires have already been removed, so next remove the plastic shield.
2. Unscrew the fastener - it is located in the center of the shank.
3. By carefully pulling the contacts, shaking the heater in different directions, remove the heating element. The rubber gasket will be an obstacle, so be patient - there is nothing you can do about it.
4. Having taken out the heating element, remove the gasket.

• There is probably debris and scale in the hole where the heating element was, so carry out a general cleaning; Only after this can you install the gasket.
• Install a new heating element, tighten the fastener.
• Replace the plastic shield.
• Connect the contacts to the heater and sensor.
• Restore the location of the bracket, and finally mount the machine panel back.

When water leaks from under the door of the Whirlpool washing machine during the washing or rinsing mode, it begins imperceptibly - first a couple of drops, then a thin trickle, and sooner or later a flood begins.

You don't need a diagram of the Whirlpool washing machine to find the cuff that is causing the breakdown. It can be seen with the naked eye - this is a large rubber gasket in your SM. It is located along the entire inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is to keep water out.

The most vulnerable place of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often remains there. If you don't clean it up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn out seal for it to break - then a leak cannot be avoided.

Important! You cannot use the machine with a torn cuff - it will not be able to hold water. If a breakthrough is detected, the cuff must be changed URGENTLY.

If you are used to carrying out repairs at home, then dismantle the old one and install a new cuff.

Removing the old cuff:

Note to users: Buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the hatch groove exactly down to the millimeter and will protect the tank from leaks.

Installation of a new cuff:

1. Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.

Important! Do not use anything sharp, so as not to tear the seal - do everything ONLY with your hands.

1. Once the elastic is in place, quickly place the clamp on and tighten it.
2. Check whether the sunroof closes and opens normally.
3. Run the wash in test mode.
4. If it’s dry under the machine, congratulations, you did a great job!

If water flows in the machine vertical type, then the reason may not be in the hatch at all - it is located on top of it. Most likely, you will need to disassemble your Whirlpool top-loading washing machine to determine the cause of the leak.

There are a number of other reasons why the washer may leak:

• The pump is leaking.
• Depressurization of the tank - crack, hole, corrosion.
• The drainage or water intake pipes are damaged.
• Depressurization of the water inlet pipe connection.
• Depressurization of the pipes connecting the inlet valve and the powder cuvette.
• Seal wear.
• There is a blockage in the dispenser hopper.
• Worn tank drain pipe.

Most of these breakdowns are simple, and you can repair the leak yourself. The most important thing in this case is to correctly diagnose the problem. Fault codes will help you with this.

The following error codes may appear on the display: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.

If you still have questions about repairing breakdowns of Whirlpool washing machines, read our other materials, in which we analyze each individual fault in detail.

In this article, we examined only typical breakdowns that can be repaired without the help of a repairman. And if you are interested in how to change the bearing on a Whirlpool washing machine, watch this additional special video:

Good day, dear visitors.
Today is a note, or rather an essay about... repairing a washing machine!
I’ll immediately make a reservation that in electrical engineering I’m a complete zero, so I ask seasoned radio electronics engineers to forgive me for possible inaccuracies/words/terms. Also, some photos were taken from Google, since I already managed to sow my own.
So, here she is, the heroine of the story -Whirlpool awe 2221.


Symptoms: does not react at all to external stimuli. It doesn’t matter whether the plug is in the socket or not, as long as you stand there, the light won’t blink.
External inspection/sniffing/checking the socket did not yield anything.
Then there are few options - take it apart and see what's inside in terms of electronics.
The control board (I apologize for this term, I just don’t know what it’s called in science) is located under the panel with the “twist”. Carefully unclip the panel, turn it over and see the wires going to this very board, which is hidden under a plastic casing.

Twice in a month we encountered Whirlpool top-loading washing machines with the same symptom - it won’t turn on. After the repair, I found quite a lot of references on the English-language Internet about such a breakdown, and on one forum there was even a photo of a kit for repairing such machines, indicating the value of all the parts. The details are all quite available in Russia. In both cases there was one characteristic feature– burnt out resistor R20. This, of course, is not a cause, but a consequence, and if it is replaced with a new one, it will also fail. The reason in both cases was the failure of the PWM controller. It is responsible for the voltage of the processor, and since no voltage is supplied to the processor, the machine does not turn on. It turned out that it was enough to replace the resistor and PWM controller in order for both washing machines to work. It seems that this and similar models have this weakness and due to power surges, such breakdowns will happen to them more than once.

Here is a list of all the parts responsible for power supply to the processor with their ratings:
– U002 – LNK304PN
– R020 – 22 Ohm wire resistor / 3W (stronger than the original 2W) + 33Ohm for L1799, L2158, L2524. I also have 27 Ohm resistor, if you need it for any other board. Just notify
me by email if you need it.
– L003 – 0.47mH choke (470μH) /0.5A (better than the original, which has only 0.3A)
– C022, C023 – 2 x capacitor 4.7μF / 400V 105 ° (low ESR, to last 5000 hours instead of 2000 as in the original)
– D029, D030 – 2 x 1N4007 diode
– D006 – 200 V zener diode (3EZ200), DZ006 in L1799, L2158, L2524
– RV07 – varistor fi 10mm (originally only 7mm)
The PWM controller may differ, but the remaining parts are 99% likely to fit.

Call a specialist