What to do with ants on viburnum. How and with what to treat viburnum against aphids

How to deal with black aphids

Aphids are not only green, but if you see small dark gray or greenish-brown insects on leaves and stems in your garden and beds, you know that they are black aphids. It happens different types, for example, there is a viburnum aphid. Or black cherry. All of them are very harmful to plants, so you need
Be sure to fight black aphids.

You will need

Tobacco dust;
- ash;
- clay;
- lime;
- a solution of washing powder or soap.

Instructions

Black aphids, like green aphids, are very afraid of pollination with pure ash or mixed with tobacco dust. Therefore, try treating small bushes with this composition. But it will be difficult to rid trees of black aphids using this method, because they are tall.

This is how you can fight black aphids on cherries, viburnums and plums. Pour soapy water under the root several times after washing. It could even be water washing powder. In a few days the aphids will go away. She certainly won't like the sap from treated trees.

To prevent black or green aphids from appearing on plants in the garden in the summer, carry out preventive measures. This is a mandatory whitewashing of tree trunks with a solution of lime and clay. Take 2-3 kg of clay and 1 kg of slaked lime per 10 liters of water. Hunting belts on trunks also help a lot garden trees. You can purchase them in a special store for gardeners and gardeners. When watering trees, release the stream directly into the crown; the water will wash away some of the harmful insects.

Note!!!

Do not use chemicals, you will destroy beneficial insects, for example, a ladybug that destroys aphids. Therefore, it is better to fight black aphids without chemicals.

It is not necessary to use strong chemicals to control aphids. It can leave behind unpleasant consequences.
It is better to prepare infusions and decoctions of plants. It is good to use green potato tops, tobacco, yarrow, chamomile, and garlic to combat aphids.

There are also very effective solutions for combating aphids, which consist not only of herbal decoctions.

The first recipe.

Mix slaked lime or ash with tobacco dust in a 1:1 ratio. Add 200 g to the mixture onion peel and fill in warm water. It's better to do this in a bucket. Fill the bucket to the top.
This solution should sit for approximately five days. After this, strain the infusion.
This infusion must be sprayed on the foliage several times until the aphids disappear.

But aphids can attack more than just trees. Garden greens are often the target of aphid attacks. Moreover, it is not advisable to treat greens with any chemicals.

The second recipe.

In order to get rid of aphids, take one and a half glasses of wood ash, scald it with boiling water, dilute it in 10 liters hot water. Now all that remains is to add a tablespoon of soap and stir well. Strain and spray the greens on which aphids have bred.
Do not wash off the solution for about a week. And then use a watering can to water the greens to wash the plants.

Recipe three.

Plants can be treated not only with solutions. There is a fairly effective dry processing method.
For it you need to make a mixture of ground pepper (one tablespoon), sifted ash (one tablespoon) and dry mustard (one tablespoon). That is, the ingredients should be equal. Mix the resulting mixture well. You need to sew a small bag from gauze. The gauze needs to be folded in two layers. You need to pour the mixture into this bag and treat the plants, carefully dusting them.
After a week, wash off the powder by watering the plants from a watering can. To rinse off the mixture well, you need to pour it at least twice, taking a break for two hours.

Black aphid. How to fight. Advice from Alexey Chatsky

If we are talking about aphids in the garden: plant umbrella plants - carrots, dill, fennel, parsley and others. Thus, you will attract tireless aphid eaters - hoverflies - to the garden. Place in the garden flower pots With wood shavings– earwigs can live in them, and they are also big fans of aphids for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Attract birds to the garden - arrange feeders and birdhouses for them, do not destroy the nests found in the garden, birds eat aphids in huge quantities.

Lavender planted in a rose garden will repel green aphids.

Thyme (savory), sown next to legumes, will protect them from black aphids.

Sow nasturtium in the tree trunk of a cherry tree - it will attract black aphids, reducing the load on the tree, and it is easier to fight aphids on nasturtium than on a tree.

Do not overuse chemicals unless absolutely necessary - together with the pests, you destroy their enemies: hoverflies, earwigs, ladybugs, lacewings, ichneumon wasps, ground beetles and predatory bugs.

Balanced feeding of plants is very important - aphids prefer overfed or weak from lack nutrients plants.

Except proper fertilizing a strong healthy plant needs right choice places of growth, sufficient amounts of light and water, good air circulation - all this is also prevention against small parasites. It is important to loosen the soil under the plants, or better yet, mulch.

Abundant watering with liquid nettle fertilizer can sometimes drive out aphids in a few days. Plants quickly absorb this nutritious, strengthening mixture and therefore, after a short time, become more resistant to pests.

Used sources.

Viburnum is a very popular garden crop in our area. This shrub has won the love of gardeners as its beautiful decorative appearance, and extremely useful and delicious fruits, which are rich in vitamins and other healthy substances. At the same time, caring for viburnum is quite simple. However, like other garden plants, it is susceptible to attacks by various pests, which must be dealt with in a timely manner.

How to treat viburnum

Pests of viburnum are quite common and one of the most common pests affecting viburnum bushes is the black viburnum aphid. It is a dark brown or brown colored insect. Aphids lay their larvae on viburnum leaves, as a result of which the leaves curl and dry out as the larvae drink all the juice from them. You can fight this pest with the help of special preparations, as well as infusions of pepper, celandine or a solution of laundry soap. Ladybugs are also an excellent help in the fight against aphids.

Viburnum berry in the photo

This article has helped many gardeners stop working hard on their plots and still get a bountiful harvest.

I would never have thought that in order to get best harvest on his own personal plot For my entire “dacha career”, all I need is to stop toiling away in the garden beds and trust nature. For as long as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First at my parents' house, and then my husband and I bought our own. From early spring to late autumn, all free time was spent on planting, weeding, tying, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, preserving and trying to preserve the harvest until next year. And so in a circle...

Treating viburnum for pests in spring

Another common pest of viburnum is a small beetle - the viburnum leaf beetle. Their size is only 5-7 mm, but they multiply quite quickly and are able to eat all the leaves of the bush, leaving only large veins. These viburnum pests are quite dangerous, since the plant damaged by them will not bloom next year. You can fight them by spraying with karbofos, if this is done before flowering, with tincture of pepper or chamomile, if spraying is done at a later period.

Viburnum diseases and pests

There are other pests of viburnum that are not so common, but also occur quite often.

Useful properties of viburnum on video

In May, the first winged individuals, ready for reproduction, appear on the viburnum. After mating, some insects move to other viburnum bushes and lay eggs. With the advent of a new spring, everything starts all over again.

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Ask and receive useful tips from professional gardeners and experienced summer residents.

Aphids on viburnum, how to fight?

What to do if there are aphids on the viburnum? Chemical agents can successfully combat black aphids on viburnum. Under their influence, paralysis occurs in insects. They simply cannot feed anymore and soon die. Chemical products are made on the basis of insecticides. A tiny dose of these substances is enough to kill an entire colony of pests.

The advantages of fighting aphids with chemicals include the speed of action of poisons and the fact that under their influence all aphids on viburnum die, that is, adult insects, larvae, even eggs. In addition, these drugs retain their toxic properties for 20 days after treatment.

You can buy such products in flower shops. They are sold in the form of a concentrate. Before use, dilute the product with water. Typically, the packaging indicates instructions for use based on diluting the concentrate per 10 liters of water.

Treat viburnum bushes against aphids using rubber gloves in the absence of wind. It is advisable to use a respirator.

Gardening stores will tell you which chemicals to buy. By and large, all these drugs have an effective effect on aphids. So you can use any of them. During the first week, aphids die en masse, then this process slows down. After 20 days, the effects of these drugs stop.

Before the first leaves appear, viburnum can be treated with Nitrafen paste. Later, the viburnum bushes need to be sprayed with any of the above products.

Eco-friendly pest control products

This is a good preventive method. In late autumn, cut off the young shoots that appear at the base of the viburnum trunk. Aphids readily lay eggs on it. In the spring, before flowering, water the soil around the viburnum generously. hot water. This will kill the eggs and larvae of the aphids.

Aphids are happily eaten by hoverflies, lacewings, and ladybugs.

The solution is actively used against garden pests ammonia.

An infusion of onion peels will help get rid of aphids on viburnum. These insects cannot stand the smell of the infusion, but do not die from it. In order to enhance the effect of the infusion, add laundry soap, wood ash, and tobacco to it. It takes a long time to prepare, but is not difficult. To do this, you need to take 200 grams of onion peels, 500 grams of wood ash, 200 grams of tobacco. Mix the ingredients and add 10 liters of water. Leave the remedy for five days. Then strain the infusion, dissolve a bar of laundry soap in it.

Spray the viburnum with this infusion every week until all viburnum pests leave the bush.

Here's what else you can use to spray viburnum against aphids. The product is prepared by eye. Add wood ash, spices, and soap solution to the water. Any spices can be used. This is, for example, red or black pepper, cinnamon or cloves. One day is enough to infuse the product. Then strain the infusion and start spraying the viburnum. This infusion should be used for the first time in the spring. Then the procedure can be repeated every month.

No less effective in the fight against aphids is another infusion. Take 200 grams of garlic, tobacco, pine needles, fill them with 10 liters of water. Boil for half an hour. After five days of infusion, the decoction is ready for use. Add a little liquid laundry soap to it so that the broth does not drip from the leaves and branches of the viburnum.

Perhaps you have an exotic variety of viburnum buldenezh growing, reaching a height of three meters. So you ask: how to treat buldenezh against aphids? Use the same methods for controlling black aphids as for ordinary viburnum.

Viburnum berries contain a large amount of vitamin C, as well as pectins and tannins. A decoction of berries helps cope with sore throat, tonsillitis, bronchitis and pneumonia. Viburnum bark also has useful substances: from its decoction you can prepare a hemostatic and antispasmodic agent, as well as a mouth rinse for periodontal disease. However, insect pests can undermine the health of the tree, or even destroy it completely. Knowing what viburnum pests exist and measures to combat them, you can take timely measures and save the tree.

The most common pests

Viburnum has many admirers not only among people, but also among insects. However, the preferences of the latter are destructive for her. The following are the pests that can cause the greatest harm to viburnum, as well as how to get rid of them and save the plant.

Black aphid on viburnum, how to fight

These small bugs are easy to notice: they are brown, almost black in color (less often crimson-brown) and accumulate in large quantities on the stems of the plant. They usually lay eggs in the bark of the viburnum tree, as well as on the branches. In the spring, the larvae hatch, begin to suck out the juices and eat the young leaves of the plant. Over time, they dry and curl, and the shoots change shape.

In general, aphids attack three times a year, starting in May. During this month it is necessary to start treating the plant with insecticides. Then the aphid larvae grow and turn into flying insects that are able to fly to neighboring plants. In August, aphids begin laying eggs, which can successfully overwinter, despite the frost.

Black aphid on viburnum

Measures to combat viburnum aphids include the destruction of root shoots, where the largest number of eggs are laid. How can you treat viburnum against aphids? The plant should be sprayed with chemicals:

• Arrivo,
• Fury,
• Fufan or Fufanon,
• Karbafos.

Or biological:

• Fitoverm,
• Akarin or Agravertin CE,
• Aversectin,
• Intavir.

It is also a good idea to treat the plant with a solution of laundry or tar soap.

Important! It is better to do the first treatment before the buds open, this will help reduce the number of overwintered eggs.

What to do if the use of chemicals in a given location is not possible? They will help folk remedies. For spraying, you can use decoctions prepared from other plants. Potato tops (1.2 kg of green ones per 10 liters of water), pepper infusion (1 kg of capsicum per 10 liters), celandine (3-4 kg of fresh celandine per 10 liters) are suitable for this.

It will also be useful to purchase or attract beneficial insects that destroy aphids on viburnum. This is a ladybug, a hoverfly or a goldmine larva. The insects will eat the pests, but the viburnum will not be touched.

Hoverfly

Green lobed moth

The caterpillar has a yellow-green color with a dark red stripe along the body, the same dots and spots. Prefers to eat exclusively flowers and gnaw out flower ovaries. Particularly active between May and July. Over the summer, two generations of butterflies may appear. The moth is most often found on ornamental shrub Buldenezh. In addition to viburnum, it can also harm other garden shrubs, such as lilac and buckthorn.

On a note! Pest control must be carried out twice: in the spring, before the viburnum begins to bloom and after it has finished. 10% Karbofos is suitable for processing.

Viburnum leaf beetle

Viburnum leaf beetle - large beetle Brown. Prefers to hide a clutch of eggs in young shoots of viburnum. The larvae have a black head and a dirty gray body. Some people confuse the leaf beetle caterpillar with a worm. The larvae emerge from the eggs at the end of spring and begin to eat young leaves. You can notice that the leaf beetle caterpillars on the viburnum have eaten all the leaves. They are able to completely eat a leaf, leaving only a skeleton mesh instead. You can notice them on the back of the sheet: the caterpillars hold firmly and are not so easy to shake off.

Note: This pest has a truly brutal appetite; in a few days the larvae are capable of destroying a large number of viburnum branches.

At the beginning of summer, the larvae hide underground and turn into beetles. They have a yellow-brown color. The beetles not only eat viburnum leaves, but gnaw holes in them. In this case, you can notice that the viburnum leaves have holes. Now leaf beetles live on the upper part of the leaf. After the leaves they move to inflorescences. their actions can lead to the complete death of the plant and the crop.

Viburnum leaf beetle

Favorable weather for the leaf beetle is rain, damp and cold. Under such conditions, the number of beetles may increase, which will cause considerable harm to the viburnum.

To combat this beetle, you need to remove dried and damaged shoots in the fall, as well as leaves with larvae. Treat the plant in the spring, when the leaves have not yet blossomed, and in August. The drug Intavir is suitable for this: you need to spray the plant twice with an interval of 7-10 days. During the growing season, it is recommended to spray viburnum with an infusion of hot pepper (a kilogram of fresh or 0.5 kg of dried crushed pods per bucket of water), an infusion of tomato tops (4 kg of fresh herbs per bucket of water) or a decoction of chamomile (3 kg fresh or 1 kg dried per bucket of water ). It will also be useful to remove in the spring those shoots in which egg laying is visible. The trimmings should be removed away and burned immediately.

Viburnum leaf roller

The larvae of this pest are gray or green caterpillars, which have a yellow tint on the sides. The entire body of the caterpillars is covered with light hairs. They become active in the spring. They actively eat the buds and young leaves of the plant. In addition, they wrap the leaves with cobwebs and knock them into a ball.

Viburnum leaf roller

Leaf roller caterpillars are capable of real wrecking: in a short period of time they can eat huge quantities of leaves and inflorescences, which negatively affects crop yields. To prevent the caterpillars from eating all the viburnum leaves, you need to start fighting them in time.

Note! To destroy the viburnum leaf roller, you need to collect and burn all the caterpillar nests. Then spray the plants with 60% Nitrofen paste (250 g per bucket of water). This must be done before the leaves bloom. Then you need to treat the viburnum with 10% Karbofos.

Viburnum gall midge

To combat this pest, you need to loosen the soil in early spring and late autumn. Before viburnum flowers appear, spray the plant with 10% Karbofos (100 g per bucket of water).

Chekhlik moth

It is a small butterfly (wingspan up to 1 cm). The color is gray, with shiny scales on the body. Moth larvae are orange-brown in color and no larger than 0.5 cm in size. For the winter, the moth makes a shelter for itself and hibernates in it, and in the spring it flies out and feeds on viburnum leaves. It pupates in June and becomes a butterfly in July.

Chekhlik moth

Spring treatment of viburnum during the period of growth of young shoots will help cope with moths. Suitable drugs include Fufanon, Actellik, Iskra, Commander and Intavir.

Other pests

Less likely to encounter spider mite, honeysuckle sawfly, moth and moth. To combat them, you need to treat the plant with Karbofos in May, and in August with Fufanon or Iskra.

Folk methods of struggle

Many gardeners prefer not to use chemicals to control pests. AND traditional methods a lot: in addition to the decoction listed earlier garden plants Spraying with a soap solution is recommended. This solution is prepared using laundry soap or tar soap. You just need to dissolve the soap in water, about 100 grams per 1 liter of water, preferably warm.

Note: It is much more convenient and faster to dissolve soap shavings.

This method is absolutely safe for humans. For greater effectiveness, it is recommended to add to the solution:

• soda,
• ash,
• tobacco,
• tops

Soda-soap solution

The effect of using this product will be noticeable by the end of the day. To prepare, you need to mix soap with water (1/4 or 1/2 of a bar of soap per bucket is enough), then add soda at the rate of 1 tablespoon per liter of water. You will need about 10 tablespoons of soda per bucket. Mix thoroughly and spray the plant thoroughly.

Preparation of soda-soap solution for spraying

Ash solution

Wood ash is highly irritating to the skin of insects, making it excellent for pest control. The soap solution will help fix the ash solution on the leaves.

First you need to sift 300 grams of wood ash, add it to a bucket filled with 10 liters of water and put it on fire. Cook for half an hour. Then cool slightly and add 40 grams of soap.

Advice! There is no need to make this product in advance; it is better to prepare it immediately before use.

Tobacco solution

To prepare, you need to mix 200 grams of dry tobacco leaves with three pods of hot pepper and pour a bucket of water over everything. Insist for a day. Then add 100 grams of laundry soap, 3 tablespoons of wood ash (can be replaced with cinnamon) and mix. This solution can quickly remove pests.

Tops solution

To prepare the solution, you can use potato or tomato tops. It is necessary to chop 3 kg of fresh herbs, add 10 liters of water and leave for at least 6 hours. Then put on the stove, bring to a boil and cook for half an hour. Then cool, add 50 grams of soap and use.

Tomato tops

Using a soap solution to spray viburnum is safe for humans and is accessible to everyone. However, it is not always possible to cope with harmful insects only with the help of folk remedies. Store-bought products are much more effective, but they also cannot destroy all pests the first time. For maximum effectiveness, it is worth using folk remedies in combination with store-bought ones.

Important: Due to the need for chemical treatment, you should not plant viburnum next to the beds; eating such a crop can be dangerous.

Necessary prevention

For the prevention of viburnum diseases and for detection early signs In case of pests, you need to regularly inspect the plant. If the leaves begin to turn black, dry out or rot, or holes appear on them, you need to look for the cause and fight it.

For prevention and treatment, it would not be amiss to treat the bushes throughout the season with onion, garlic or tobacco infusion, as well as a soap solution (any of those described earlier). The use of insecticidal plants is ideal for the prevention of viburnum diseases, as well as for pest control. It could be horse sorrel, dandelion, wormwood.

It will not be possible to completely protect the viburnum; pests may attack again, but timely detection and destruction of harmful insects will prevent them from laying eggs.

This berry crop is widespread throughout the forest zone of Russia, and has been very popular since ancient times. People have composed many songs and legends about this unique and beloved culture, distinguished by its high decorative, special taste and healing qualities.

In spring it is elegant with its beautiful white inflorescences and emerald three-lobed rounded leaves, in autumn - with bright red clusters of berries. They look especially beautiful when the first snow falls, when all nature is already falling asleep. It is not for nothing that viburnum is often used for landscaping in well-maintained villages, and is now widely introduced into cultivation in household plots.

The genus Viburnum belongs to the honeysuckle family, it unites more than 100 species, of which 10 species grow in Russia, and the most common one of economic importance is the common viburnum. It grows in the form of a small spreading tree or large bush up to 3-4 meters high. IN favorable conditions Viburnum grows quickly, its annual growth reaches 40-80 cm, and the life expectancy of the bush is about 50 years.

Berries, flowers and even viburnum bark are rich in vitamins, organic acids, especially ascorbic and valerian, essential oils, sugars, tannins and minerals. Viburnum berries contain iron, phosphorus and calcium, as well as a number of microelements: manganese, iodine, copper, etc. The content of pectin, sugar, tannin and tannins in the berries allows them to be used for making jam, marmalades, juices, jelly, and various drinks and refreshing cocktails. In addition, viburnum is dried, used to brew tea, and ground with sugar, obtaining “raw” jam.

Viburnum is loved not only for its unique taste, but also for its unsurpassed healing properties. It is practically irreplaceable for many diseases.

IN folk medicine They use not only berries, but also vegetative parts of the plant - stems, leaves, bark, rhizomes, flowers, seeds. All these parts of the plant have different chemical composition, depending on which they are used in various fields of medicine. The timing of the collection of raw materials also plays a role, for example, the bark and shoots of viburnum should be collected in the spring during the period of sap flow, flowers - at the beginning of summer, during their full bloom, berries - after the first autumn frosts, during this period they retain all their valuable properties.

All collected viburnum raw materials are dried in the shade in the open air or in well-ventilated areas. The dried parts of the plant are stored in dry linen or gauze bags in places protected from light and used as needed.

In medical practice, viburnum is used as a preventive and therapeutic agent for cardiovascular diseases; it is known as a hemostatic, sedative, choleretic, diuretic, and anti-inflammatory agent. Viburnum is widely used in gynecology, dermatology, for the treatment of stomach ulcers, liver diseases, and internal bleeding. It is indispensable for all colds, in cosmetology, and currently viburnum berries are used in the prevention and treatment of cancer.

The varietal composition of the common viburnum is not rich. In home gardens, seedlings or vegetatively propagated selected forms of local origin are mainly grown. IN last years The Siberian Research Institute has created varieties of viburnum that are biologically and economically valuable and are recommended for home gardening.

Zarnitsa is the most large-fruited variety with an average berry weight of 0.71 g, a yield of 6.2 kg per bush, a taste of 4.3 points (tasting rating on a 5-point system).

Taiga rubies are the most productive variety - 7.8 kg per bush, average berry weight 0.51 g, taste 4.5 points.

Ulgen - average yield per bush 5.8 kg, average berry weight 0.64 g, taste rating 4.2 points.

Sauzga - average yield per bush is 5.1 kg, average berry weight is 0.65, taste rating is 4.3 points.

Zhelobovskaya - average yield per bush 4.4 kg, average berry weight 0.57 g, taste 4.6 points.

Viburnum propagation

Viburnum reproduces well both by seeds and vegetatively - by layering and cuttings. When propagating from seeds, 1-2-year-old seedlings are grown in a separate area in the garden, which are then transplanted to a permanent place. To obtain economically valuable seedlings, ripened berries are collected from the most productive and large-fruited plants. The seeds are separated from the pulp, washed with water and dried. They can be sown both in spring and autumn. Spring sowing is preferable, but we must remember that for this, immediately after harvesting the seeds, they must be stratified. To do this, they are mixed with wet sand and stored at a temperature of 4...8°C. Stratification of viburnum seeds lasts 5-6 months. In the spring, the seeds are sown in well-prepared soil, planting them to a depth of 3 cm. During the growing season, seedlings need care: weeding and loosening the soil, watering and fertilizing the plants. After 1-2 years of cultivation, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the garden.

Autumn sowing of seeds does not require stratification, it is simpler, but in the spring the seeds germinate poorly, they germinate en masse only after 1.5 years.

Vegetative propagation by layering and cuttings is more preferable, since this preserves the individual characteristics of plants and produces large-sized planting material faster.

In the most simple and long-known way vegetative propagation Viburnum is propagated by layering (like gooseberries), for which annual shoots in the spring before buds open are bent onto loose nutritious soil, pinned and sprinkled with earth. Shoots develop from the buds of bent branches, and when they reach a height of 10-12 cm, they are covered with 4-6 cm of moist soil. Then, after 15-20 days, a second hilling is carried out to 7-10 cm. In the fall, these layerings are cut into the number of rooted shoots, of which the strong ones are planted in a permanent place in the garden, and the weak ones - for growing into a school.

Viburnum is propagated by cuttings, both lignified and green, similar to the propagation of black currants and other crops. When preparing lignified cuttings, select a part of the annual growth with well-developed buds. The length of the cuttings is 15-20 cm. Before planting, it is advisable to immerse the cuttings with their lower ends (2-3 cm) in water solution heteroauxin with a concentration of 0.01% for 12-36 hours. This operation promotes better rooting of cuttings. In April, the cuttings are planted obliquely in well-prepared loose and moist soil, followed by frequent watering and loosening of the soil.

Green cuttings are carried out in June, cutting and planting the tops of the current year's annual growths with 3-6 internodes (about 10-15 cm) during the period when the shoot tissue begins to coarse.

Before planting, remove from cuttings lower leaves, leaving 2-3 top ones, partially shortened for less moisture evaporation, and make light longitudinal cuts in the lower part of the cutting, which promotes better rooting. As a rule, green cuttings are carried out in cultivation rooms under conditions of artificial fog.

A simpler and more reliable method of propagation is by combined cuttings, when the green cutting is cut off with a “heel” - part of a two-year shoot up to 4 cm long. Combined cuttings can be planted both in a greenhouse and in open ground subject to regular watering.

Planting viburnum seedlings. Grown seedlings are planted in holes measuring 60x60 cm, into which 8-10 kg of humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 80 g of potassium fertilizers are added. After planting, the plants are watered abundantly (2-3 buckets for each bush) and mulched with peat or humus. During the growing season, monitor soil fertility by feeding plants and loosening the soil.

In a fruit-bearing garden in the spring (late April), nitrogen fertilizers are applied to viburnum bushes - 30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 of tree trunk circle. In mid-June - during the period of active growth of shoots - complex fertilizers are applied at the rate of 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium salt per 1 m2 of tree trunk circle. In the fall, after harvesting, only superphosphate and potassium fertilizers are applied, excluding nitrogen fertilizers. Organic fertilizers - manure, compost or humus - are applied in the fall when digging the soil once every 3-4 years, 8-10 kg per 1 m2 of tree trunk circle or in grooves along the projection of the crown.

Viburnum loves moisture, so it is necessary to water the plants 3-4 times per season. The last time it is watered is in September.

The main harvest of viburnum is located on annual growths, so it is necessary to achieve good annual growth of annual shoots - at least 25-40 cm.

When forming a bush, leave 6-7 of the strongest branches, cut out all damaged, dry branches that thicken the crown. As the bush ages, old branches are removed, replacing them with new, young ones. For this purpose, obsolete branches are cut into a ring or a strong lateral branch. Viburnum pruning is carried out during the ripening period, when the berries turn red.

Pests and diseases. The fight against pests and diseases of viburnum is given special importance, because varietal viburnum attracts numerous pests like a magnet and in some years is damaged so badly that there are almost no healthy leaves left on the branches.

The greatest damage to viburnum is caused by the black viburnum aphid, viburnum leaf beetle, viburnum leaf roller, honeysuckle spiny sawfly, viburnum and honeysuckle gall midges, green lobed moth, etc. However, the most malicious pest is the black viburnum aphid, which damages viburnum every year. If this fast-growing pest is not controlled, the tips of the shoots turn gray, stop growing in mid-summer and wither. It is necessary to spray the plants even during the ripening of the crop, but at the same time all chemicals are excluded, and only plant infusions are used: garlic, onion peels, potato tops, dandelion rhizomes, celandine, tobacco, yarrow, wild elderberry.

The most effective and simplest infusion of celandine is prepared as follows: 1 kg of dry or 3-4 kg of raw celandine is poured into 10 liters of water, infused for 24 hours, then filtered and immediately sprayed on the bushes. The dry mass can be ground into powder and pollinated the affected plants with it.

At the beginning of summer, treatment with tobacco infusion gives a good effect - the ripening of the berries is still far away, the toxicity of nicotine disappears. For 10 liters of water, 400 g of shag or tobacco is required. The heated water and shag are kept for about 48 hours, after which 40 g of laundry or green soap are added - the solution is ready.

Garlic infusion is also effective, for the preparation of which 30 g of cloves are ground in a meat grinder, the mass is dipped in a bucket of water, mixed, filtered, it is not necessary to infuse: you can immediately spray viburnum and other berry plants, inhabited by voracious aphids, mites and copperhead caterpillars.

Onion has a slightly weaker phytoncidal effect, but it gives almost similar results.

To obtain the infusion, use 150 g of onion peel, which is infused in a bucket of water for 4 days. Then the infusion is filtered and used for spraying plants.

A fairly effective remedy that destroys hordes of aphids, copperheads and mites not only on viburnum, but also on other berry gardens, is an infusion of potato tops: 1.5 kg of green mass of tops is crushed, first cleared of soil, poured in 10 liters of water, filtered after three hours and spray the plants in the evening before dark. It should be remembered that an increase in the mass of potato tops is dangerous, as it leads to the formation of burns on young leaves.

To prepare an infusion of yarrow, you need 800 g of the stems of this herb, which are dried in the shade, placed in a bucket of water, the mixture is boiled for 30 minutes, filtered, and 40 g of soap are added for better adhesion.

The phytoncidal effects of wild elderberry have long been known. The berries contained in the above-ground part of this plant are capable of destroying slugs, copperheads and aphids. For 10 liters of water, at least 0.5 buckets of young elderberry shoots are required. They are infused for two days, then the infusion is filtered, poured into a sprayer and the plants are treated with it.

Galina Aleksandrova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences