Is it possible to install a split system at home yourself? How to install a split system yourself

A split system makes life easier on summer days, but such pleasure costs a lot of money. This situation pushes people to install air conditioners themselves. To avoid damage to the material and other possible problems, you should know the basic principles of installation, understand each stage of installation and follow the instructions. So, how to install a split system correctly?

How to choose an installation location

Determining the location is a fundamental stage of installing a split system, which is regulated by manufacturers.

Regarding location, you should know the following requirements:

• The indoor unit should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling;
• The indoor unit should be placed at a distance of 30 cm from another wall;
• The distance between the outdoor and indoor units must be at least 1.5 m.

It should be noted that the maximum distance between the split system units is not limited. Installers try not to exceed 6 meters, because if additional freon charging is required, additional costs will only aggravate the situation. The ideal distance is 3 meters.

The outdoor unit is often placed on open balconies or near a window. In multi-storey buildings, they are guided by the following principle: up to the 5th floor, the outdoor unit of the split system is installed above the window and at a certain distance from it; if the air conditioner is installed on the 9th floor, for example, then the outdoor unit is mounted at the window level or below it.

In private houses, the choice of location depends on the strength of the walls and suitable conditions. Installation is carried out on a load-bearing wall using brackets or hung on the base of the house itself.

What you need for self-installation

The main thing you will need to install a split system yourself is tools and materials. It’s not for nothing that specialists charge a high price for installing an air conditioner, because the equipment is expensive. We should not forget about the need for its reinforcement.

Installation Tools

Equipment for installing a split system:

• Hammer (a tool for creating a hole in the wall through which communications are laid and split system units are connected);
• Drill and drills of different diameters, which will be needed to install the base (fasteners) for the air conditioner;
• Copper pipe flaring machine, which is used to deform the pipe to the required diameter;
• A pipe cutter used to cut copper pipes;
• A rimmer or a regular file, which are needed for stripping pipes and removing burrs.

Materials

The list of materials for installing a split with your own hands is longer and includes the following objects:

1. Seamless copper pipes exclusively for air conditioners. There is a difference between these and water pipes. For split systems, soft pipes are used, which successfully create a good seal. Based on diameter, this material is divided into large and medium sizes. The required length should be 20 cm longer than the length of the communication;
2. Cable for connecting split system units. Often a 4-core wire with a cross-sectional thickness of 2-2.5 square millimeters is used. The cable length should correspond to the length of the communication or be slightly longer;
3. Drainage tube – spiral-shaped plastic hose;
4. Insulation for rubber pipes;
5. Brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. The dimensions depend on the dimensions of the block and the load-bearing capacity of the wall;
6. Fasteners (dowels, anchors, bolts, screws, etc.);
7. A plastic box to hide communications at the end of the split system installation.

Installation procedure and features of the work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system consists of installing blocks and laying all the necessary communications. It is important to follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer, because each model has its own characteristics that affect the method and location of installation.

Installation of indoor and outdoor units

Installation of the indoor unit begins with choosing a location. You should make sure that there are no electrical communications or water pipes passing through the mounting points.

First of all, a plate is attached, onto which the block itself is then placed. A prerequisite must be met: the horizontal level of the split system plate must be ideal.

After working with the level, you should put marks for the holes. It is important to secure well the lower part of the plate, where the latches for the housing of the internal unit of the split system are located.

After successful installation of the plate, the indoor block is put on top and fits into the grooves, which allows it to be firmly held on the wall.

The hole for communications should be at such a height that the drainage tube slopes towards the outdoor unit (slope - 1 cm per 1 m). The diameter of the hole must be at least 5 cm. It is better to make two holes - for wires with copper pipes and separately for the drainage tube.

To mark the mounting of the outdoor unit, remember that again you need to observe the level and the fact that the drainage tube must go at an angle. Accordingly, the level of the outdoor unit is lower than the level of the indoor unit of the split system.

First, the brackets are installed. Each hole in them must be used for its intended purpose. The more anchors that hold the base, the greater the chance that the block will not fall. The unit itself is installed on the brackets using bolts.

Laying communications

The first step is to lay copper pipes. Having decided on the length, they are cut with a special tool, which was indicated above. The edges must be carefully processed with a file.

Insulating pipes are placed on top of the pipes, which serve to maintain temperature. There should be no insulation joints. Everything is tightly sealed on top with reinforced tape. Important! When pulling pipes through the hole, it is necessary to seal the access inside to prevent dirt and construction debris from entering.

The cable is quite easy to route. Stripped wires of the required size are pulled through the hole and connect the split system units.

To find where to connect the wires, you need to open the cover, which is located above the copper pipe mounts on the blocks. It is recommended to study the wire mounts before installing the system to ensure that no problems arise during the process.

Connecting blocks

To connect the blocks, you must ensure that the cable colors are connected correctly. There shouldn't be any big problems with this.

Drainage

Or . On the indoor block there is a tube with a plastic tip, into which a corrugated pipe is put on and crimped with a clamp. It is advisable to bring it at a distance of 1 meter from the wall

In the lower part of the outdoor unit, they rarely use a corrugated pipe and leave everything as it is. The water just drips onto the ground.

Freon circulation system

Connecting copper pipes requires responsibility and good preparation. Before doing this, it is better to carefully read the instructions and study the connection points. Copper tubes should not bend too much and should run evenly along with the rest of the communication.

The indoor unit has two ports for connecting two handsets. First you need to tighten the nuts. If something hisses during this, it’s not scary, it’s nitrogen that was previously pumped into the block coming out.

After cutting the pipe, the ends are carefully checked for burrs and other roughness. The pipe should be perfectly flat over a distance of 5-7 cm. Rolling is carried out to the size of the port fitting. It is very important that the tube fits tightly onto the fitting - this will eliminate unnecessary loss of freon and ensure normal sealing.

If everything fits well, the tube is connected to the port by tightening the nut. There is no need to use gaskets or other devices. Such operations are performed with all ends of two copper tubes.

Vacuuming: why and how to do it

Vacuuming is necessary in order to clean copper tubes from air and moisture that gets inside during installation. If it is not removed, a large load will be created, and the compressor will accordingly overheat.

There are two ways to evacuate a split system.

Spray method

If you look at the port into which the copper tubes are connected, you can see two plugs, in addition to the nut with a fitting. Both plugs are unscrewed.

Work is carried out with a larger diameter port. Inside there is a special slot for a hex key. The size is selected according to location, and can also be found in the instructions.

Turn the valve 90 degrees with the key for 1 second, then release. This means that a little freon was released into the system, resulting in excess pressure. On the same port there is a spool, which must be pressed with your finger to start the release of a mixture of freon and residual gases. The operation is carried out for 1-2 seconds 2-3 times.

After all, a plug is put on the spool, and the port with the hexagon is unscrewed completely to release freon into the system. It is important to make sure that all plugs are tightened tightly; you can lubricate the threads with soap for a better seal.

Vacuum pump

The vacuum pump is connected to the spool for 20-30 minutes. During this time, he must completely vacuum the system. Then the pump turns off, but the tube remains in the spool for 15 minutes. This is necessary in order to monitor the pressure using a pressure gauge. If the arrow freezes and stands still, then everything is fine. Chaotic movement of the arrow indicates an air or moisture leak, so the pump should be turned on again.

Before disconnecting the pump, you must let freon into the system using a hex wrench. A characteristic sound in the system indicates a successful launch. After this, you must quickly disconnect the pump.

Air conditioner installation guide:

1. Attach the plate for hanging the indoor unit.
you need: a level, a tape measure, a pencil, a small hammer drill/drill, a drill, self-tapping screws, choppers, a stepladder, a screwdriver, possibly a hammer, a vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.

If you don’t have something, it’s a bullshit question, don’t rush to buy it, because you don’t need it except this time. You can hang it by eye, it’s a bullshit question, it’s a little crooked, but you can always proudly say, hand mei, I hung it myself.
There is no stepladder, it’s a bullshit question, the chair on the chair steers foreva. It is desirable that the area of ​​the seat of the lower chair be slightly less than the spread of the legs of the upper chair. This will add special, piquant notes, and neighbors will be able to add catchphrases to their vocabulary.

If you don’t have a drill, it’s a nonsense question; walls can usually be picked quite well with a nail.
No screwdriver, no big deal, just a hammer.
There is no hammer, it’s a bullshit question, finding something heavy is not a problem at all.
If you have nothing to fasten with, the question is garbage, nails, tape, cold welding, glue, for greater reliability, it is better to combine several methods of fastening.
So, the plate is securely fastened.
-

2. Make a hole in the wall, and not just a hole, but a normal hole so that a rolling pin can fit through with a whistle + a slight downward slope.
you need: a large hammer drill, a long drill, a stepladder, masking tape, an industrial vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.
Stepladder, see problem 1, the neighbors will become polyglots.
A device for finding hidden wiring, bullshit question, an additional boost of energy will not be superfluous.
A hammer drill, a drill, a bullshit question, a nail certainly won’t work or should have been started in the winter, but a hefty chisel + hammer rules the game. A couple of days of work and a meeting with fresh air.
Molar tape, cellophane, industrial vacuum cleaner, bullshit question. As a child, we played a war game, well, the same thing + a smoke screen and you are invisible to the enemy.
And of course, all your household members will receive great, incomparable pleasure from doing such a great cleaning after the “war”.
Well, the hole is ready, the bullshit is huge and crooked, but it will be convenient to lay out the routes.
-

3. We look at the hole, at the internal block at the estimated distance to the external block and understand that the drain pipes are short, um, task.
you need: flaring, gas burner (for proper installation), pipe cutter, drainage tube, flex (shorter insulation)
Well, the guys are not suckers, what a thread, it’s clear that we bought a couple of meters of copper seamless tube of different diameters in advance, or maybe not copper, or maybe not seamless, and maybe not even the same diameter, bullshit question, the main thing is that it’s cheap, and then , we'll customize it to your location.
There is nothing, it’s a bullshit question, the main thing is there are pipes, and miraculous cold welding will fix everything + glue on top + tape + wrap with wire + another layer of cold welding, for reliability, the stump is clear.
The fact that the shavings got into the tubes when you sawed them with a hacksaw. No hacksaw, did you gnaw them with your teeth? What are you doing, you grunted on your knee and that’s it, then they split the hole with a knife... that’s also an option, the main thing is more cold welding.
Drainage, drainage, drainage, um, there’s a piece of hose from my grandmother’s washing machine, which her grandfather gave her in honor of the anniversary of the Battle of Borodino.
In general, they lengthened the routes, stuck them with tons of ore into the hole, but what the hell did you think, three layers of cold welding, glue, 2 rolls of adhesive tape, a roll of wire weighing 3 kg, a hose, that’s how it is, they forgot the hose, they screwed it all up, it seems to have passed, no slope, hz, the main thing is that it got through and thanks for that
We hung the indoor unit...it’s somehow wobbly, bullshit question, the welding hasn’t hardened yet, tape it over it, tape it. WOW! What a beauty.
-

4. Outdoor unit.
Need to. Level, small hammer drill, small drill, internal mountings. blocks, bolts, keys.
But I must say, we live on the first floor, so there are no problems here, we just put him on the ground and fuck him. Don't forget to put the grate on.
-

5. Connect the routes of the indoor unit with the outdoor one and vacuum seal.
Needed: monomer, compressor, flaring, wrenches.
There’s nothing, it’s a bullshit question, we take a vacuum cleaner, turn on the route into the pipe at full power, the high sucks and creates a vacuum, oh how.
And now quickly, most importantly quickly, before the vacuum is released, attach the routes to the external unit, bullshit question, will it come out in 10 minutes... who? Yes, this same vacuum, if it weren’t okay...... no, that’s right, a vacuum can’t walk at all.
Wiring, um, what the hell are they doing for electricity, damn it, they almost forgot. There is a diagram, something is not clear, why is it unclear, tighten it under the bolts, and that’s it.
Hallelujah, everything is connected.
They crossed themselves….he said let’s go and waved his hand….
……………….
It's buzzing.....
It’s humming, which means it’s working, but the cold will come, I’m sure it will.
After some time
PS. So it’s like that, they forgot to put the coolant in, they forgot to remove it from the route flexes.
They forgot something else, I don’t know what, but they forgot something.
It's a bullshit question, call the office, have them come and replace it under warranty, you got a defective one. Well, ********, ***** will sell you all sorts of things, and then normal people will suffer. Even though they saved money on installation, it’s not so offensive, because they are so disrespectful.
A curtain.

A manual for self-installation of a split system, FOR DUMMIES, STEP BY STEP, IN FIVE DAYS AND YOU ARE A SENSEI air conditioner.

The air conditioner should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting for the summer heat. This way you can save a significant amount, especially if you do. In order for the equipment to work without failures, installing the air conditioner yourself must be done strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place. Inconsistency with technical conditions or incorrect selection of parts will lead to rapid breakdown of the split system.

To install everything correctly, you should have an understanding of the structure and operating principle of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and an evaporation unit connected to each other by tubes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Expensive models have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.

Refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator unit through a nozzle under high pressure. It enters the evaporator chamber, where it expands, boils, and its vapor begins to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporation unit. From there, the moisture is directed into a reservoir and transported outside the building through a tube.

All this time, the compressor pumps out refrigerant evaporation from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns back into liquid. In this form, it is again supplied under pressure to the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.

The efficiency of equipment operation and energy consumption directly depend on operating conditions. If any heating device is located near the air conditioner, the compressor is consumed and more likely to fail. Ordinary dust that gets inside the system can also cause damage, and therefore wet cleaning should be carried out regularly and very carefully. You cannot place various objects on the surface of the block, or cover it with anything.

To prevent refrigerant evaporation, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be located lower than the indoor unit and, if possible, in the coolest place. It is good if the block is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.

Air conditioner part	Description
1. Fan	creates a flow of air blowing over the condenser
2. Capacitor	radiator in which cooling and condensation of freon occurs. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly
3. Compressor	compresses freon and maintains its movement along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor is of piston or scroll type. Reciprocating compressors are cheaper but less reliable than scroll compressors, especially at low outside temperatures
4. Control board	Installed only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since large changes in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four way valve	installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of movement of freon. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit for cooling
6. Union connections	copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them
7. Freon system filter	is installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was carried out in violation of the technology and a large amount of debris got into the system, then the filter will not help
8. Protective quick-release cover	covers the fitting connections and terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the fitting connections remain outside

	Description
1. Front panel	It is a plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for servicing the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.)
2. Coarse filter	is a plastic mesh and is designed to retain coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Fine filter	There are different types: carbon (removes unpleasant odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters does not have any effect on the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fan	has 3 - 4 rotation speeds
5. Evaporator	a radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly
6. Horizontal blinds	adjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically driven and their position can be adjusted using a remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically perform oscillatory movements to evenly distribute air flow throughout the room
7. Display panel	On the front panel of the air conditioner there are indicators (LEDs) showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions
8. Vertical blinds	serve to adjust the direction of the air flow horizontally. In domestic air conditioners, the position of these blinds can only be adjusted manually. The ability to adjust from the remote control is only available in some premium air conditioner models
Condensate tray	located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water formed on the surface of the cold evaporator). Water is discharged from the sump to the outside through a drainage hose.
Control board	usually located on the right side of the indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor
Union connections	located at the lower rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them.

Air conditioner installation tools

If you are planning to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:

In addition, you will need a whole bay of copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

It is best to install an air conditioner during a major renovation, since you will have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - How the air conditioner works

Prices for components for air conditioners

Air conditioner components

Air conditioner installation instructions

If the tools have been purchased, the air conditioner has been delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is installed indoors. During the installation process, we must not forget about safety precautions, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.

Mounting the outdoor unit

When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the location must be chosen very carefully. The unit body should not block the view of neighbors, and condensation should not flow down the wall of the house. In this case, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment requires periodic maintenance.

It is best if the block is fixed on the east or north side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. This way it won’t disturb anyone, and you can easily reach it through an open window. Using a level, mark the mounting locations for the brackets and drill holes in the wall for the anchor bolts. To lay interconnect communications, a through hole with a diameter of 80 mm is drilled. In a brick wall, it is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - this will take less time and the hole will be more accurate.

The brackets are installed according to the markings, aligned and the bolts are securely tightened. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, and then the resulting gaps are sealed. If the block is securely attached to a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.

The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that could cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a location, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, water or heating pipes.

If the area is free, attach a mounting plate: step back 10 cm from the ceiling, 5 cm from the corner of the wall and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for fasteners and securely screw the plate. The internal unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for communication connections - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.

Connecting electrical wiring

For the block, they lay their own indoors, the minimum cross-section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the input panel: a yellow wire with a green stripe is connected to the neutral wire. To determine zero and phase, you should use an indicator.

After this, insulated stranded wires connect the terminals of both blocks, passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must match the wires; everything is clearly described in the instructions supplied with the air conditioner.

Copper tubes must be cut, leaving a margin of about a meter for bends. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. The prepared tubes are covered with thermal insulation - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has a short service life.

Threaded flanges are placed on insulated pipes, and the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next stage is tube flaring. Flaring must be carried out very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should fit easily onto the flared joint, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared joints from being squeezed out of the nut.

The pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed onto the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. Finally, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if included in the kit. The drainage pipe should be taken away from the load-bearing wall as far as possible.

Now the pipes are inserted into the hole, aligned, and secured from the outside tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby and the pipeline is connected to the external unit. The hole is blown out with polyurethane foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked for leaks using a bicycle pump and soap solution. If air is leaking somewhere, tighten the thread more tightly. After checking, the soap deposits are wiped off the threads with a clean cloth.

Evacuating the system

Evacuating the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is carried out after sealing the threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, connect a vacuum pump to the system and pump out the air for an hour.

Filling and testing the air conditioner

The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the tank is filled. When the process is completed, the circuit breaker on the air conditioner is turned on, after which the system independently enters test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, remove the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.

Find out how it is done, and also check out the step-by-step guide from our new article.

Prices for the range of air conditioners

Air conditioners

Video - Installing an air conditioner yourself

Installing an air conditioner is a rather complex undertaking that requires, if not experience in carrying out such work, then at least thorough theoretical training. In more than half of the cases, problems with air conditioning appear due to incorrect installation and errors during the system connection process. Even the most expensive and modern device will not be able to fully realize its potential if its installation is carried out in violation of technology.

A traditional split system includes an external unit, which is placed outside the window, and an internal unit. In some cases, more than 1 block is installed. Such combinations are known as multi-split systems.

Each element of the system performs its own functions. So, the outdoor unit is responsible for condensation, while the indoor unit performs the functions of an evaporator. The blocks are connected using a backbone of tubes and wires. Freon circulates through the tubes. The system also includes a drainage tube. It is connected to the outdoor unit. It is responsible for removing moisture that condenses during operation of the installation. According to the rules, this tube must be connected to the sewer system.

Air conditioning systems are available for sale to suit every taste and requirement. However, in terms of their composition and connection technology, they are practically no different from each other.

Before you begin installing the blocks, you need to decide on a number of important points.

1. First, decide on the side of the world that the capacitor unit will face.
2. Secondly, you need to establish the material from which the walls of the house are made. In accordance with this point, suitable fasteners will be selected. Additionally, certain changes in the system installation process are made by the weight of the blocks.

It is important to ensure normal access to the units to carry out preventive maintenance and repair activities. The outdoor unit must be protected from precipitation, icing and other adverse influences.

When choosing the power of a future split system, take into account the operational and other important characteristics of the home. First of all, take into account the orientation of the apartment or house to the cardinal points. Also important is the number of people inhabiting the home, the total power of electrical appliances, the number of heating radiators, and the presence of other ventilation systems and devices.

Before proceeding with the installation of the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the strength of the balcony railing or wall is sufficient to support the weight of the product. The most powerful models weigh up to 60 kg or even more. On average, household outdoor units weigh 10-15 kg and usually no problems arise with their placement. The wall and all fasteners used must have a minimum of two times the strength factor.

If there is external insulation, be sure to ensure that the brackets are not attached to the thermal insulation, but directly to the wall material.

Quite often, aerated concrete is used in modern housing construction. This is an excellent material with high thermal insulation properties, however, unfortunately, it cannot boast of great strength. If the external walls of your house are built specifically from aerated concrete, you should refrain from installing the air conditioner directly on the wall.

It is not recommended to hang the block on a ventilated façade., because During its operation, quite strong vibration and noise can be created. In the situations described, the unit should be installed using a special damping seal, which is pre-fixed to the wall. The air conditioner itself rarely produces noise more than 25-30 dB, so in houses with walls made of a material denser than aerated concrete, no inconvenience usually occurs.

Any distortions when installing the external unit are unacceptable. At each stage of installation, you need to check the horizontal installation of the product using a building level. Deviations from the horizontal will lead to disruption of the circulation of freon or other refrigerant used.

If possible, the air conditioner should be installed in a place where the wind blows from all sides, but at the same time it is protected from precipitation and other negative influences. The best option is to place the unit under a pre-installed canopy or at least on the balcony. Residents of the upper floors of apartment buildings can install an outdoor air conditioner unit on the roof. It is only important to ensure that the main length does not exceed 15-20 m in total. Otherwise, there will be significant losses of cold in the system, and the air conditioner will consume electricity in vain.

Take care to properly arrange the drainage of condensed moisture. Regulations require that this pipe be connected to a sewer. However, this requirement is almost never met, and the moisture simply drips onto the ground under the window. In such a situation, you need to at least make sure that water does not drip on passers-by.

The rules require that the distance between the outdoor unit and the wall surface be at least 10 cm. The problem is that the compressor must have sufficient airflow from all sides. If you install it closer than 10 cm to the wall, in summer the airflow will be insufficient, which will lead to damage to the unit.

Installing an outdoor unit is associated with a certain danger, because... This is still high-altitude work. Therefore, installation can only be carried out if you have the necessary insurance, or it is better to completely entrust it to professional installers.

Installation procedure for the indoor unit

Inside the premises, the corresponding unit is installed and the pipeline is laid. Special attention should be paid to the process of arranging electrical wiring. Household air conditioners consume about 2 kW of electricity or more. First make sure that the wiring in your apartment or house can withstand such a load. If she is not capable of this, lay an individual line from the shield with a separate fuse. This will protect the wiring from overheating and your property from fire.

Lay the line from the external unit of the air conditioning system to the location of the indoor unit. The line can be laid outside or inside. When installed externally, it is hidden in a plastic box, but in accordance with internal installation, the line must be recessed into the wall.

Be careful when choosing a place to place the indoor unit. The further the blocks are removed from each other, the less efficient the system will be and the higher the energy losses will be.

The indoor unit must be placed so that there are no objects near it that could interfere with the normal flow of cooled air. Appliances, curtains and other objects that are at the same height as the unit must be at least 3 m away from it.

The unit must not be placed directly above a heating radiator. The installation location must be such that the installation can be easily accessed for repair and maintenance work. The distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 20-25 cm. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner above appliances and furniture.

The air conditioner must be installed so that the cold air produced during operation does not blow directly on a person. Otherwise, bronchitis and sore throats will not take long to appear.

The indoor unit can have a wall or ceiling design. The latter are extremely rare. However, regardless of the type of system, it is necessary to ensure the most correct and reliable fastening. Installation is carried out using brackets and screws. Brackets must be checked for strength.

After connecting the outdoor and indoor units, it is necessary to remove moisture and air from the line. This process is known as vacuumization. Special equipment is used to pump out air and water.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner connection sequence

Air conditioner installation is carried out in several stages. First, the electrical wiring is laid. Further the external unit of the system is installed. The technology requires that it be placed at a height of at least 180-200 cm from ground level. This requirement is relevant for owners of private houses and residents of apartments located on the ground floor.

In the outer wall holes are drilled for laying communications. The diameter of these holes should be 500-600 mm. Brackets are installed to ensure the block is secured. A special waterproofing cup is inserted into the prepared hole and the connecting lines are laid directly.

Next you need install the indoor unit. The maximum permissible distance between these two elements is 20 m. A distance of 7-12 m is considered optimal. Specific recommendations are given in the instructions for the equipment; be sure to study it before installation. Install the brackets and secure the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.

At the end, all that remains is to lay the wires that will ensure the functioning of the system. Mount the box. It, as already noted, can be internal or external. Connect the electrical wires and freon pipes. Evacuate the system. Special equipment is used for this. The procedure itself lasts on average 45-60 minutes.

After the vacuum is completed, perform a test run of the air conditioner. Professionals at this stage use special software and hardware equipment. If it is absent, at least observe the operation of the system and the state of the electrical network for some time.

Basic connection errors and their elimination

Mistakes made during the installation of an air conditioner lead to many different troubles. However, the services of professional installers are becoming more expensive every year and an increasing number of people, in an attempt to save money, are trying to install the air conditioner themselves. This, as already noted, is a rather complex and very responsible job, which has many features and requires taking into account a wide variety of nuances.

1. One of the most common mistakes is laying pipes with unacceptable and/or repeated kinks. Because of this, the load on the compressor will increase, which will not have the most favorable effect on the operation of the system.
2. The external unit cannot be installed on a glazed balcony. Previously, recommendations were given for its installation in this room, but they are relevant only for unglazed balconies. It is important that normal air circulation is maintained and the unit is blown from all sides.
3. The air conditioner should not be installed where any kind of installation that generates high-frequency electromagnetic waves is operating. Such equipment includes various welding machines, machines, etc.
4. It is important to maintain maximum evenness of the installation of the blocks. If this rule is violated, the resulting condensation will simply drain onto the floor, which will cause a lot of inconvenience. As already noted, the air conditioner cannot be installed directly above the radiators.

If these and any other errors were made and led to undesirable consequences, appropriate measures must be taken to correct the violations. If there is a draft from the air conditioner, it is usually enough to change the direction of air flow by adjusting the dampers.

When the system is turned on in heating mode, ice is often detected on the external unit. The reason for this phenomenon is usually that the system does not have an automatic defrost function. To remove ice, it is enough to turn on the equipment for a while to cool. The air conditioner will heat up and the ice will disappear.

If your air conditioner stops cooling properly, you need to check the filters. They require regular cleaning. Detailed recommendations on this matter are usually given in the instructions.

If water begins to drip from the indoor unit, the cause of this problem in most cases is a severely clogged drainage channel. Ice plugs that form also lead to this. It is impossible to eliminate this kind of blockage on your own without the necessary skills. It is recommended to urgently call a technician who can properly warm up the system and correct the situation.

Uncharacteristic noises during system operation usually indicate an imbalance of the fan or severe wear of the bearings. This problem can also be dealt with only by a qualified technician.

If you find that the air conditioner has begun to overheat, you should call a technician to check the freon level and the tightness of the system.

Thus, installing and connecting an air conditioner yourself is a completely feasible job. But you need to be prepared in advance for the fact that this event is not easy. Follow the instructions in everything and promptly eliminate any problems that arise. Then the air conditioner will serve as long as possible, fully performing all the tasks assigned to it.

Good luck!

Video - How to install an air conditioner yourself

The possibility of independently installing air conditioning equipment without the intervention of specialists is probably one of the most common problems of a domestic and professional nature in our time, worrying a huge number of owners of the latest split systems (especially theirs), who have previously become familiar with the existing prices for installing a modern air conditioning system. equipment.

In fact, it is true that modern air conditioning installation companies overestimate their services, attributing this to numerous professional factors: such as the technical complexity of installation and installation of the equipment, the need for the use of expensive professional equipment, and, accordingly, the highest degree of professional training and qualifications of the specialists themselves, which is rated quite highly. It’s certainly difficult to argue with all this, but you also won’t argue that when buying an air conditioner you don’t at all expect additional costs “for the qualifications” of a specialist installer...

Therefore, if you are purchasing an air conditioning system, then most likely the thought will somehow come to your mind about installing all the equipment yourself, regardless of specialist installers with professional skills and huge markups.

Video installation of an air conditioner on your own from the first person

Installing an air conditioner yourself has two obvious advantages over hiring specially trained workers:

• Firstly, practically any independent work is considered as one of the types of significant savings of personal or corporate funds, and even more so in our case, since payment for installation work, in the case of air conditioners, usually includes quite serious amounts of money that can be use more rationally;
• Well, and secondly, this is simply new experience and new skills, which, as you know, never hurt: both in everyday life and at the corporate level (in developing companies, employees with highly specialized skills in a variety of areas are highly valued). Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is an opportunity to test and consolidate your abilities through personal experience, as well as simply an interesting way of self-realization.

If endless zeal and motivation corresponds to the presence of certain individual skills and the ability to evaluate oneself and one’s capabilities objectively, then nothing is impossible at all.

Thus, in this article, where all the necessary information about the proper installation of a split system will be clearly and consistently presented, you will undoubtedly find all the information you need if you really decide to approach this issue seriously.

First of all, before you proceed to study all the basic installation instructions, read the list of all the operating and additional equipment that you will definitely need when installing the air conditioning system.

Equipment that will be needed when installing a split system:

1. Hammer;
2. Drill;
3. Vacuum pump;
4. Pipe cutter;
5. Rolling;
6. Reamer;
7. Building level;
8. Torque wrench;
9. Pressure gauge.

In addition, any mechanical tools and mechanisms (pliers, screwdrivers, etc.) will certainly not interfere with your work on installing air conditioning equipment.

Choosing a suitable location for installing the air conditioner

When selecting an area suitable for installing a split system in your premises - both internal and external structures - be sure to take into account each of the following factors:

• The first step is to correctly calculate the presence in a given room of regular and unhindered access to the air conditioning unit itself, in order to be able to clean the air conditioner filters or identify any problems if they occur;
• In addition, one should take into account the rationality of the minimum distance and the minimum number of physical barriers between the indoor and outdoor units, since with increased communications between the units, the performance of the air conditioning system itself as a whole is significantly reduced). The ideal and most rational length of the route is 6 meters; in systems with such communications, there are no more problems for air conditioner owners (the need to refill or cleanse excess moisture in the air conditioner);
• To ensure the most efficient operation of the air conditioner in terms of blowing, the minimum distance from the unit to the supporting wall should not be less than ten centimeters;
• In no case should you place the internal units of the air conditioner above walls, cabinets, or any other large furniture, because a high barrier to the cold air clots constantly forming in the atmosphere, thanks to the air conditioner, will be a natural factor in reducing the productive activity of your air conditioning device. 150 centimeters is the minimum distance of the indoor unit from any obstacle to the flow of cooled air;
• According to the same factor, keep the minimum distance between the indoor unit and the ceiling and side walls (minimum 15 and 30 centimeters, respectively);
• In addition, it is highly recommended to coordinate the installation of the air conditioner with your neighbors in order to avoid problems and scandals when installing your split system. In principle, the installation of an outdoor unit, as part of the work process, should not cause any extremely serious problems for the population of an apartment building if the work takes place in it, however, it is quite possible that in this case someone may not like it at all, for example, the sound of a working propeller, or gas condensate. In this case, try to notify your neighbors in advance about the upcoming amount of work;
• And, finally, the most intuitive factor - the operation of the air conditioner itself should not interfere with other people, and air flows should not interfere with living or working with people who are in the same room with you. Accordingly, consider the flow of light air currents when proceeding with installation.

Having decided on the location for the structure, taking into account all the above factors and not finding any flaws in your plan, you can proceed directly to the work process itself.

Installation of the indoor unit of a split system:

The indoor unit of the air conditioner is installed on a corresponding perforated mounting (fixing) plate, designed to hold the equipment in a reliable static position. The manufacturing company is obliged to provide the appropriate fixing plate along with the conditioning device itself.

It is important to remember that in order to ensure stable and regular operation of the unit, as well as to avoid leakage of gas condensate from it, during installation it is necessary to use only those fixing parts and mechanisms that were provided by the official manufacturing company complete with the main equipment, and intended specifically for for the specific system you are dealing with.

Placement of marks

For stable operation of the air conditioner, it is important to fix the plate exactly as required by the original engineering calculation. Therefore, in order to independently determine the strict horizontal line, it is necessary to use a building level. If the calculation is carried out incorrectly and the indoor unit is installed incorrectly, then the condensate accumulating in it will not escape into the pipe, but will flow straight to the floor, so you should take the procedure for attaching the indoor unit to the mounting plate very seriously, and it is advisable to practice before this.

Press the mounting plate against the wall and measure from it the distance you need (in accordance with the minimums indicated above) to the ceiling and walls, and place marks with a felt-tip pen on the places where the holes should be drilled.

Drilling holes in the wall

After you have placed all the appropriate markings for the holes, it will need to be implemented accordingly. The marked areas must be drilled with a hammer drill. In this case, the minimum diameter of the drilled hole should be 5 centimeters, because This is the minimum open hole into which the highway can freely pass.

This method, in addition, works great if you need to run a line through a concrete wall. When drilling, you should carefully monitor what is happening on the street so that fragments of brick or concrete chips that scattered when drilling the last few centimeters of the wall do not fall on citizens passing by your house.

Securing the indoor unit

Finally, when almost everything is ready, you need to push the dowels into the drilled holes. Well try on the indoor unit on the mounting plate and screw screws of suitable diameter into each of the dowels, thus securing the plate with them, and then simply install the indoor unit itself on top, thus firmly and thoroughly strengthening it.

Installing the external air conditioner unit yourself:

The outdoor unit should be located on pre-determined and installed mounts located outside your premises. Basically, the principle is simple: the unit is placed close to the window - on the side (preferably on the right), or below, which makes the operation and maintenance of the air conditioner as convenient as possible.

But there is a nuance: the process of attaching the external unit is quite labor-intensive, since, firstly, to carry out this task, one more person is required (for backup), and secondly, the external unit itself is very heavy (20-70 kilograms - depends from performance), and raising it to a great height, and even more so installing it, without some kind of support is quite a difficult task, and even quite life-threatening if the air conditioner is installed at high altitudes. So, if you are not completely confident in your abilities, then it is better to turn to specialists. If you are sure, then read on - everything is not as difficult as it seems, installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires only knowledge and a bit of ingenuity.

Safety net

So, initially, through the open hole in the wall where you need to install the external unit, you should pass two thick ropes (ordinary clotheslines are quite suitable). Tie one rope, from the outside, to the block, securing it properly. Use another rope to tie yourself around to be on the safe side. Be sure to check your insurance before installing the unit.

Meanwhile, tie the inner ends of the ropes to a strong ring-type anchor, firmly (at least thirty cm, otherwise the anchor will simply be carried away along with a piece of concrete) screwed into the wall just below the hole through which the ropes pass.

Block fastening

We tie the level to the main bracket to fix it in a vertical position and mark with a felt-tip pen the areas of the holes allocated for the bolts. After fixing the bracket, we draw a plumb line at a distance approximately corresponding to the distance between the supports of the external block and, placing the second bracket in the same horizontal position in which the first one is located, we make the corresponding marks with a felt-tip pen at the locations of potential holes. After the fastenings are well fixed, you should carefully install the external unit on them outside and tighten all the bolts.

Also, it is likely that you simply may not have the physical ability to fix all the working fasteners just by leaning out of the window. In this case, most likely, you will have to remove the car lift, or hire professional climbers (however, nowadays, many amateur teenagers provide such services for a small fee, which is quite risky, although installing an air conditioner with your own hands is a risky undertaking in itself).

How to carry out inter-unit communication?

Initially, you need to make an opening in the wall, through which communications will be carried out in the future. It should be punched with a hammer drill using a drilling rig with a diameter of about four to five centimeters.

If the installation interblock route contains a drainage pipe that removes condensate, communications must be carried out with an orientation of about five to ten degrees - in the opposite direction to the construction.

It is preferable to lay the main area of ​​the route, starting from the point where the indoor unit is connected and up to the area where communications enter the wall, along the walls, thus visually hiding their presence. However, gating surfaces is an extremely labor-intensive operation, which, moreover, inevitably generates a large amount of dirt and dust.

For this reason, if the premises have recently undergone renovation work (especially major renovations), then it is recommended to lay and install interblock routes from the outside, and all residual communications, wires and other working elements can subsequently be covered in a specialized decorative plastic case.

The air conditioner inter-unit communication lines described above typically include solid copper freon pipes, main parallel power and control cables, and in addition plastic drain pipes (high pressure pipes). In theory, gas condensate should be discharged into the sewer system from the internal unit of the split system, however, in reality, most users, when installing an air conditioner with their own hands, simply take it outside.

Calculation of route length

In order to correctly measure and determine the length of cables and pipelines required specifically in your case, you should measure the length of all communications, leaving a small reserve just in case (approximately thirty to fifty centimeters), and based on this determine: how many meters of cable will be required to pass through route, how much pipeline is needed, etc.

But this applies only to specific and rather rare situations. In most cases, for ordinary residents of panel apartment buildings, the stated above six meters (with a margin of half a meter) are enough for installation. Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation in more complex architectural structures with unusual design solutions, in private homes, etc. - this is a question for a separate article.

Cutting copper pipes

If in order to properly install the air conditioner yourself it is necessary to slightly shorten the length of the pipeline, then it should be cut. To cut copper pipes, you should use a pipe cutter, but in no case a hacksaw, grinder, electric cutter, or other tools not intended for this, since when they are used, the pipe will inevitably deform, various small debris, sawdust and metal shavings will form. which can later cause problems with your air conditioning system.

Route adjustment

Before laying pipelines, and in general before any installation work, they are placed under a large thermal insulation cover. In order to avoid various small debris getting into the holes in the pipeline (which is inevitable in normal situations) and clogging the external holes with dust and sawdust, they are covered with small plastic plugs. Each forming line (this is drainage, flared pipes, electrical wiring) is laid out together with others, all of them are carefully wrapped with vinyl insulating tape, after which the line should be inserted into the place intended for it.

After you have laid all the relevant interconnect lines, you need to start connecting electrical cables, wiring and freon communications to the air conditioner.

The official air conditioner installation manual must also include a wiring diagram. You should be guided by this particular diagram, since it was developed by specialists who probably took into account the specific features and variety of rooms in which electrical wiring may be installed during installation.

• First you need to change the length of the pipeline by cutting off the excess metal material using a pipe cutter and adjusting it to a more or less acceptable value.
• Then the burrs should be removed (the chamfer is removed using a reamer). Already after threading the nut, almost any area of ​​the pipe is thoroughly deformed using rolling technology.
• Then the individual flared edges are firmly connected to the fittings of the indoor unit, tightening the nuts first by hand, and then, as tightly as possible, with a torque wrench (although you should not try too hard - the nuts may burst). At the same time, all communications must be closed from external influences and remain completely sealed.

Vacuumization

Having completed the independent connection of the line to the air conditioner, it is necessary to check the tightness of the entire communication, for which all water and air are pumped out of it using a vacuum pump. Using a pressure manifold, a pump is connected to the external block, pumping out the air space from the block and forming a vacuum space in it. This procedure takes approximately twenty minutes to complete.

When the pump turns off, specialists monitor the slightest changes in the pressure level inside the unit for about half an hour. Only if the pressure gauge pointer remains completely motionless is the air conditioning system considered completely sealed. Accordingly, only after a complete and thorough check of the unit for insulation do you get the opportunity to fill the circuit with freon (freon has an extremely negative effect on the human body, so its leakage can lead to the most unpredictable consequences) and open the gas and liquid valves completely (unscrew them all the way , while they are walking).

Vacuuming almost inevitably must be used in systems with long lines (six meters and above), due to the fact that in this case it is impossible to fill the device with freon, which, in systems with long lines, is very quickly wasted.

When you are sure that you have installed the air conditioner correctly with your own hands, you just need to provide it with an uninterrupted power supply - for this you just need to connect an outlet to the indoor unit. Now you can check the operation of the air conditioner.

That's all. Installing an air conditioner yourself is not such a difficult task if you know what and how to do.