Sprout fly larvae control measures. The sprout fly is a dangerous insect for agriculture.

Today I would like to draw attention to such an issue as pests of cucumbers. After all, it is he who worries summer residents, who, wanting to get the fruits of their work, sometimes do not know how to behave when pests appear. In our article we will describe in detail methods of control and prevention that can be carried out, both open ground, and in greenhouse conditions.

It is the aphid that is recognized as the most harmful, because it is capable of infecting the entire plant, from flowers to shoots. During its development on cucumbers, the plant dies. The melon appears mainly in July-August, it multiplies very quickly and after a few days the entire lower part of the leaf, ovaries and flowers fall under its “influence”.

Fighting methods

All weeds on the site must be destroyed; it is important to remove plant debris in a timely manner, because aphids appear on cucumbers mainly from weeds. If the pest appears, then it is worth preparing the following solution: 10 liters of water, the temperature of which is 60°C, 30 g of capsicum, finely chopped (you can replace 10 g of dry red pepper) and 200 g of tobacco dust. All this is infused for 24 hours, then mixed, filtered, and 2 tablespoons are added. liquid soap, 2 tbsp. wood ash. Spraying consumption reaches 2 liters per 1 sq.m. It is necessary to process the lower and top part leaves. Repeat spraying after a week.

Also effective is a solution consisting of 1 cup of wood ash, 2 tbsp. liquid soap diluted in 10 liters hot water. You also need to leave it for a day and spray it, as in the previous case. It is more correct to carry out work in calm weather, in the late afternoon.

Kalbofos solution is also an effective means of combating aphids. You need to dilute 1-2 tbsp. drug in 10 liters of warm water. A highly concentrated solution is suitable for treating paths and films in greenhouses, a weakly concentrated solution is suitable for the plants themselves. Work should be carried out in sunny weather after 16.00. If cucumbers are planted in a greenhouse, then during the procedures you need to close the transoms, vents and doors.

Insecticidal infusions, such as dope, garlic, onion, henbane and others, will also be a solution in the fight against aphids. Recipes for preparing the solution are diluted in 10 liters of water.

1. Leaves and roots of henbane - 1 kg dry or 0.5 kg fresh, leave for 15 hours.
2. 1 kg of dry mustard, leave for 24 hours.
3. 0.4 kg of fresh dandelion leaves (can be replaced with 0.3 kg of crushed plant roots), leave for 2 hours, add mustard and pepper 1 tsp each.
4. 1 kg of green potato tops, 10 g of ground red pepper, leave for 4 hours and use immediately.
5. 1 cup finely chopped or minced onions, 1 tbsp. soda ash, leave for 3 hours and strain.

Before use, you must add 1-2 tbsp to all the described infusions. liquid soap.

Spider mites especially attack cucumbers growing indoors. The number of ticks increases with increasing temperature, when the air warms up from 20 degrees and above. The mite feeds on both adult plants and cucumber seedlings. The arrival of a pest can be easily determined: a web begins to appear on the leaves, along which mites are able to move. Fighting spider mites is not an easy task, it is worth remembering that first of all it is necessary to get rid of the female. Although its lifespan is no more than 4 weeks, during this period it lays several hundred eggs.

Fighting methods

It's worth remembering that folk remedies are not always beneficial. There are special drugs against spider mites called acaricides. They have an effect on both eggs and live ticks. We must not forget that this pest is addictive to drugs, so they must often be replaced with others. Among the effective ones, it is worth noting Talstar, Bicol, Clipper, Fitovern, Akarin and others. During use, follow the instructions in the instructions.

In addition, it is important to take care of other pest control measures. So, after harvesting cucumbers, you need to remove and destroy plant remains, disinfect greenhouses and greenhouses with sulfur bombs, and fumigate with sulfur at a rate of 100 g per 1 m3 before planting seeds or seedlings. During the growth of cucumbers, it is necessary to remember to maintain a favorable microclimate, when the temperature does not exceed or fall below +32 degrees, air humidity is 80-85%. Thanks to such conditions, the development of the mite is suspended, females bear less fruit, and the percentage of larvae appearing is reduced to a minimum.

Greenhouse whitefly

Whitefly infects plants growing indoors. The pest causes particular damage to cucumbers. Lays eggs on the leaves on the underside. The female is capable of laying about 130 eggs. The most optimal conditions for the development of the pest are considered to be air humidity of 65-75%, temperature - 21-23 degrees. More than 12 generations can develop in a year. In summer, the pest is able to move from greenhouses to open areas soil. Nymphs, larvae, and adults feed on the plant; in addition, they secrete a sweet mass that negatively affects the processing of carbon dioxide; the plant is completely inhibited. Leaves that are damaged by the sticky mass dry out.

Fighting methods

The main preventive measures are disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses, removal of plant debris after the end of their growing season. An important point is the destruction of weeds, both in the greenhouses themselves and in the area around them. Besides Special attention It is worth paying attention to preventing the cultivation of fruit and ornamental plants, on which the whitefly can survive the winter.

Fly pupae in winter time spend the winter on grain crops and vegetable crops, as well as clover. In the spring, when the birch tree blooms, the flies fly out. They lay eggs under lumps of soil in April-May. The best place for this is damp, where the soil is poorly covered with manure. In the period from 2 to 10 days, larvae appear that can harm germinating seeds and cucumber seedlings. Moreover, the larvae of the germ fly make their way inside the stem. After finishing feeding, they become pupae, this happens after about 15 days. During the season, 3 generations of this pest can develop.

Fighting methods

If you see a fly on plants in the autumn season, then you should dig up the soil, turning around the soil. A prerequisite is to incorporate the manure into the ground so that lumps are not visible on the surface. It is also worth using methods that promote the rapid growth of cucumbers. For example, to plant seedlings rather than seeds; if you decide to plant seeds, then it is better to give preference to sprouted rather than dry ones. The seedlings can be covered with film and mineral fertilizers can be used to help the plant grow faster. After harvesting the last harvest, it is recommended to remove plant debris.

Insecticides are also good way combating the germ fly. Thus, you can use drugs from the Malathion group “Funanon”, “Kemifos” and “Novaction” for open ground cucumbers; spraying is carried out during the growing season. The group Cypermethin + permethrin “Iskra” is also sprayed during the growing season and is suitable for open ground plants.

It's even harder to see the male. In this situation, it is worth rinsing the root of the plant well, grinding it along the fibers and adding water. You need to leave the cucumber root for 3 hours, and then you can see the male in the water.

The spread of nematodes on cucumbers leads to a significant weakening of the plant. New roots are practically not formed. Nutrients are not absorbed, the affected roots can become infected with fungal and bacterial infections. Over time, the plant dies.

Fighting methods

Preventing the appearance of a pest is much easier than getting rid of it afterwards. Therefore, prevention has a special place in this issue. In addition to cucumbers, potted ornamental and flower plants cannot be planted in greenhouses.

If nematodes appear, then the plants must be dug up, removed from the greenhouse along with the soil, placed in a hole and filled with a 2% carbation solution. 5% formaldehyde will also work. The same solutions can be useful for watering the ground under removed plants. After watering, the soil must be covered with roofing felt or film. After the last harvest, all plants are removed and the roots are inspected. If even single nematodes are noticed, then the entire area must be disinfected.

Slugs

Every gardener has seen on his land, but not everyone suspected that these mollusks can cause enormous harm: productivity decreases, product quality deteriorates, vegetables are unsuitable for storage, they quickly begin to rot. In addition, slugs can carry fungal spores and infect the plant, for example, with gray rot or powdery mildew. Slugs often spread in areas of the soil where there are a lot of weeds, burlap, pieces of film, and where the climate is humid and cool. It is also worth remembering that the fewer voids in the soil, the fewer slugs there will be in the area. It is more correct to plant cucumbers on early stages, since in this case the plants have time to develop and become stronger. After harvesting the last crop, it is worth removing all vegetation that slugs can use for food.

Fighting methods

The first method of control is to manually collect slugs using tweezers. You can also create grooves and protective strips in the area, which help impede the movement of slugs. It is better to collect pests during the day, better after rain. Also a good time would be the morning when there is dew on the plants.

Chemicals are used if the number of slugs is large. For these purposes, a preparation of metaldehyde 5% has been developed, which should be used to treat the crop twice. To do this, granules are scattered over the soil; over time, the mollusks, having eaten the bait, die.

You can also use copper and iron sulfate, ground superphosphate, and fluff lime. But such methods of combating slugs are ineffective after rain, since these drugs easily dissolve in water. The number of slugs can also be reduced thanks to natural enemies, for example, brown frogs, legless lizards, toads, etc. Birds are also assistants in the fight against mollusks. These could be magpies, hooded crows, starlings, thrushes and other birds.

Medvedki

Mole crickets are large insects that can reach 5 cm in length. Cucumbers can suffer not only from the pest itself, but also from its larvae. Mole crickets gnaw both the trunk of the plant and its root. Mole crickets develop very rapidly in places where it is damp and manure, here the pest can lay approximately 300 eggs every 3 weeks. Mole crickets also hatch very quickly. If you don't start fighting the pest, they can fill the entire area.

Fighting methods

Mostly effective method The fight becomes traps that need to be set either in early spring or late autumn. Manure is considered one of the traps; it is laid out on pre-laid boards or plywood in your area. Mole crickets crawl here, every 2 weeks the manure must be collected and burned, and then new traps must be made.

In addition, hot pepper tincture can also be used for traps. To prepare it, cut 200 g of pepper into small pieces, add 10 liters of hot water, leave for 4 hours, then strain and add 10 tbsp. honey Pour the resulting infusion into a cut-off plastic bottle and bury it in the ground so that the edges of the bottle remain on the surface. Mole crickets react very quickly to such a smell. Once trapped, they will not be able to get out of it.

If the cucumbers are already bearing fruit, and the mole crickets do not give rest, then you can use alder branches. They need to be placed in the soil at a distance of approximately 1 m from each other. The smell of alder repels pests.

In addition, ready-made baits, which can be purchased at specialized retail outlets, are also effective. For example, “Medvedko-s”, which has many advantages. Thus, the granules do not dissolve in water and kill the pest within 2 hours of its absorption.

Thrips are small insects that are able to overwinter in plant debris, in the top layer of soil, and move to their winter hut in September. About 7 generations of the pest can develop during a season. The larvae are able to suck juices from cucumber tissues.

When thrips appear on cucumbers, the leaves of the plant acquire angular yellow spots. After the damage becomes severe, the leaves turn brown and dry out over time. Given negative impact causes irreparable harm to the crop; it dies and, therefore, does not bear fruit.

Fighting methods

First of all, one should not forget about crop rotation, the fight against weed grass and removing plant debris after the last harvest. In addition, in the fall you can dig the soil deeply. Disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses after harvesting will also be an excellent way to protect against pests. Disinfection is carried out with 0.15% karbofos or actellik. These products are also suitable for spraying the plants themselves.

Also, experienced gardeners use for spraying an infusion prepared from 1 kg of fresh hot pepper, which is diluted in 10 liters of water. You need to boil it for an hour, then let it sit for a day. This concentrate does not disappear; it can be bottled. Before spraying the plants, add 40 g of laundry soap and 125 g of the resulting concentrate to 10 liters of water. Spraying interval is from 10 to 15 days.

This pest causes particular harm to those plants that are already affected by root diseases. Mosquitoes can damage the roots and the inside of the stem with small passages, after which the plant rots. Also dangerous are the larvae of cucumber mosquitoes that live in manure or humus.

Every gardener wants to get good harvest in their beds. And we are all concerned with the question: how to minimize losses from all kinds of cucumber pests. Let's talk about this.

Every living thing is forced to defend itself: some consider it a product.

Cucumber, besides humans, has many people who like to eat it. The cucumber is defenseless.

Pests of cucumbers find them both.

These are both general insects that plague many crops (aphids, mites), and specific ones, identified even by name (cucumber gnat).

Spider mite

This pest loves greenhouse conditions and is more often found under cover - in greenhouses and greenhouses.

It does not disdain plants from open plots. When cobwebs appear on growth shoots, leaving this fact unattended is fraught.

These are not spiders weaving: a mite has settled on the cucumber. It hides at the bottom of the leaf. Loves heat and dryness, but seeks shade. Insects are small but harmful. The color is red with a slightly greenish tint.

Ticks are prolific - several generations per season. The female lays one and a half hundred eggs.

After two weeks, these cucumber pests suck out the juices of the leaves, dehydrating and drying out the plant. The ovaries and flowers fall off. The plant may die.

The tick is destroyed based on the biology of the pest:

• Water the cucumber more often - the mite does not like soil moisture, but the cucumber needs it.
• They sow “goodies” that attract natural enemies of the tick. Ladybugs like umbelliferous plants (dill, parsley, carrots). They also like ticks: the ladybug is a useful predator.

The mite does not have a hard protective covering; treating cucumbers with caustic compounds does not give the cucumber pest a chance to survive.

It is better to prepare solutions and infusions from home remedies that are harmless to humans:

• Add a tablespoon of ground pepper (tablespoon), the same amount of liquid soap, chopped onion, and a handful of wood ash to a bucket of water. I use the solution strained. It is used for spraying: twice, with a five-day interval.
• The ingredients are similar to the previous recipe, only capsicum, dried (hot). 3 crushed pods are added to the composition and left for 24 hours. Apply the same.

Insecticides on cucumber are undesirable: it grows quickly, and the poisons do not have time to be removed from the plant.

The gardener does not need products with dangerous fillings. Therefore, chemical control measures are appropriate only in the early period - seedlings, first leaves.

From the moment of flowering, chemicals are prohibited or the products must be disposed of.

melon aphid

The name of the pest is deceptive: even if you have melons, the aphid will settle on melons and cabbage, and will not forget about the cucumbers.

The pest is small, up to 2 mm, but polyphagous and voracious. An oblong green round insect.

Aphids suck juices from the leaves, and when there is a large infestation of the plant, the terminal stems.

Founding females do not have wings; they give birth to two types of offspring: wingless and winged.

The winged ones are female dispersers; they fly far and colonize other plants.

It is more convenient for aphids to settle on the lower leaf side, where they are protected from harmful influences (weather, predatory insects, chemical treatments).

And it is easier to pierce a leaf with a proboscis from below - there its surface, the epidermis of the leaf, is thinner.

In the South, aphids are most harmful: the climate allows them to produce two dozen generations per season.

Aphids love moisture; the number of this pest of cucumbers can be reduced by keeping the plants in the heat without watering for as long as possible.

How much - the type of plant will tell you. If the vines begin to wither, watering is resumed.

The methods used to deal with a mite invasion are also suitable for expelling melon aphids.

Among the preparations, ISKRA Bio is good: harmless, complex action (destroys mites, whiteflies, aphids, thrips). In hot weather, the product also works, the effect is even enhanced.

Whitefly

A miniature (2 mm), similar to a butterfly, but separated into a separate order of Homoptera, an insect.

The body is yellow, the wings have a powdery white coating. Sometimes the wings are spotted.

The larva is microscopically small, but it is the one that is harmful. Appears from the bottom of the leaf where the eggs are laid, selects a place.

Having been sucked in, this place no longer leaves, passing through several ages. You can notice a pest attack on cucumbers by the wilting of the leaves.

A sooty coating is visible at the bottom of the leaf: the pest’s secretions are a breeding ground for the fungus. Cucumbers suffer from the pest and the disease attracted by it. Both multiply quickly and the plants die without help.

On top of the leaf plate there are numerous small holes. You can also see the whitefly itself: lift a leaf and it will fly off in a flock.

Whitefly "guest" subtropical. Loves warmth and needs moisture. That’s why the whitefly lives in the South, and in greenhouses: it’s warm and humid.

It can overwinter in the ground - in the stage of an immature larva (imago), which has finished feeding.

This is a puparia - an almost formed insect covered with wax, like a pupa (false pupa).

For wintering, puparia needs shelter - plant litter, grass. And not a harsh winter.

This feature helps to destroy wintering puparia by loosening the soil surface.

Getting rid of whiteflies is a difficult task. If it is recognized in time and has captured individual plants, it is better to remove them and burn them along with the pest of all stages.

In case of mass infection, the algorithm is different:

• A detected emerging butterfly can be washed off with a stream of water under pressure.
• Gently loosen the surface under the cucumber plants.
• Sprinkle the soil with ash.
• Hang sticky trap tapes in the greenhouse (as for flies).
• Settling its biological enemies in places where the harmful butterfly accumulates. These are predatory insects (Macrolophus bug, Encarsia) and mushrooms (Boveria), specializing in feeding on whiteflies.
• Organophosphate chemicals are a last resort; they are toxic. Used only when agricultural technology and biological measures have not helped.
• You can pollinate or fumigate plots with plants with tobacco dust. This method is also destructive for aphids, bedbugs, and flies.

Sprout fly

Sparse cucumber shoots are not always an indicator of poor quality seeds.

Often, on already hatched seeds, on sprouts, cotyledons, a fly, called sprout fly, for this reason, robbers.

The fly that hatches in the spring is barely noticeable: only 3 mm. It can grow twice as big. It is not the fly itself that harms, but its small larvae.

The female lays eggs closer to the nutrient medium of future children: directly into the soil.

The larva is strong and viable. And although the height of a newborn is 1 mm, she easily overcomes the path to cucumber seedlings in the soil.

She doesn't even have a head, instead she has a mandible. She “sharpenes” the seedlings with them, feeds on them, and destroys them. Grows up to 7 mm.

Along the way, it can snack on the larvae of other insects and plant remains. Therefore it is very tenacious.

In the soil, having gone down to 10 cm, the grown larva pupates into a puparia.

Fly larvae overwinter closer to the roots of perennial grasses. In the spring, the most voracious larvae of the first generation will emerge from these false cocoons.

They gnaw through seeds and damage the sprouts of cucumber and other crops. In mid-spring - summer flies and the development cycle repeats.

In the fight against germ flies, first of all, use agricultural technology:

• A fly is a fly, even though it is sprouty and small. If there is such a pest in your area, the manure on the site should be plowed in the fall. Or do a deep dig. Otherwise, the fly will react to the manure and choose this area.
• Do not leave plant debris uncollected - a table for pests.
• Plant cucumbers as seedlings: these are no longer sprouts; strong seedlings are not afraid of the sprout fly.
• When sowing cucumbers with seeds, use treated material. Gluttonous larvae will not like it.

Spraying seedlings with Iskra is also an option. If necessary chemical treatments choose minimally toxic drugs. Iskra is one of those.

It will destroy the pest and preserve your health.

Tobacco thrips

Small winged pest – 1 mm, striped body, transparent wings. Thrips different ages look like microscopic tadpoles.

But they have legs, and thrips run well. The tips of the legs are swollen and hooked.

This family is called vesicopods. Both the larvae and their parents are not harmless - both feed on cucumber juice.

They also fly to feed on many other garden crops.

Stems and fruits are deformed. Thrips are a real disaster for cucumbers; the entire plant is “bitten” by them.

There are spots, stripes on the leaves, flowers fall off, leaves dry out.

Trips is resistant, it’s not easy to fight.

You should always start with home remedies for any pest:

• Interestingly, thrips is indeed a tobacco plant; this plant is a favorite item on its menu. But a strong infusion of tobacco - 10% - destroys thrips, a nicotine lover.
• You can take thrips with celandine - infuse it and spray the cucumber. Garlic infusion will also work.
• Thrips does not like moisture. You can use this by giving it a “bath” in the greenhouse: washing it off the leaves with a hose with a sprayer - under pressure.
• Hanging sticky traps in sectors of the greenhouse - adult thrips fly and go to the bait.
• In a small plot, simply shaking off and then dusting the plants and soil surface with tobacco dust gives a good result. It is necessary to take into account: you can shake off the pest, but carefully. You should not move the cucumber vines. The culture is delicate and does not like relocation. The moved lash will “hidden” for several days and stop growth.

It must be used under three conditions; it works when:

• Dry;
• Warm;
• Dark.

If this phytoverma is not provided, the drug loses its effectiveness and only harms the gardener himself.

Root nematode

Pest of closed soil. The harmful worm is small and can be noticed by the symptoms of damage to the cucumber.

The difficulty of diagnosis is finding the worm. It develops in the roots, forming growths - galls. Therefore, it will be possible to detect the nematode by exposing the roots or by pulling out the plant.

When the cucumbers are stunted, depressed, and there are no signs of damage to the above-ground parts, inspect the roots.

If they are swollen, have expansions, growths (galls), the cucumber is affected by a nematode.

In the greenhouse, the affected plants are destroyed. The lump of earth at the roots is also removed and filled with a disinfectant solution (bleach, lime, formaldehyde) along with the plant.

In the future, it is worth changing the soil - in a layer of up to half a meter, otherwise the nematode will be difficult to eradicate.

Carry out prevention, get rid of it completely root-knot nematode almost unreal:

• Do not plant onions next to cucumbers - the nematode settles on onions (they love onions and thrips), and will easily move from there to the cucumber plot.
• Choose planting material meticulously, do not take untested, avoid spontaneous roadside markets.
• Alternate between “drought” and “tropics” in covered plantings – the nematode is retrograde and loves consistency. She feels uncomfortable living in unusual conditions. Cucumbers also respect constancy, but they will more easily endure temporary dryness than suffering from a nematode.
• Deceptive method. The nematode loves legumes. Sow strips - traps with peas, vetch or soybeans. The nematode immediately colonizes the roots of the seedlings. While she is feeding and has not started laying eggs, after two weeks, these areas are dug up.
• The nematode can get to cucumbers from the house if it affects indoor plant. The larvae are carried by hand with tools. Even purchased vegetables can contain pest larvae. Therefore, it is important: go into the greenhouse with clean hands.

Chafer

A beetle familiar from childhood, flying towards the light, seems harmless. But this is a voracious pest in all phases, and a polyphagous one at that. Even trees are not spared.

Vegetables have a hard time - the beetle larvae gnaw the roots completely. The tender roots of a cucumber cannot resist a large, voracious larva. Crops are literally mowed down.

The number of pests can be reduced:

• By shaking off the beetles in the garden onto the litter during the daytime - during the day the beetles are not active, they are found on the trees near the garden;
• Double digging - autumn and spring - of the soil on the site. This is fatal to the larvae;
• Collecting larvae noticed during digging; destroying them.

Medvedka

Only northern gardeners are not aware of this pest. The mole cricket willingly populates the lands of the south and central zone and then plunders all crops.

They even call him a garden pirate.

A peculiar insect. It has short wings (order Orthoptera) and its own separate family - mole crickets.

The mole cricket is large: 5 cm, some individuals are larger. The front legs are powerful and serrated. The mole cricket easily digs passages and holes with them.

The pest lives underground and rarely comes to the surface, mainly in the dark, when it is not in danger.

The mole cricket builds a nest in the ground, where larvae hatch from a clutch of almost 400 eggs in three weeks.

These are small gray copies of the adult insect. The eggs are then guarded by the female.

Regulates temperature regime. To prevent the development of embryos from being disrupted, the mother bear trims everything that grows above the nest.

Therefore, you shouldn’t even replant planted seedlings that have been mowed by a mole cricket – it will remove them.

Find the nest first, remove it. It is located no deeper than 20 cm, so it’s worth the effort.

Otherwise, another three weeks and several hundred young “diggers” will get out of the nest and go eat your cucumbers and more.

It is difficult to remove mole crickets, especially in areas thoroughly fertilized with manure and compost.

A compost heap is good for a garden, but a paradise for mole crickets.

Many methods have been invented, like lime mole crickets. It’s not completely possible, but reducing the number is already a thing.

Here are some methods:

• Before winter, in late autumn, dig holes half a meter deep in different places. Fill with manure. Mark the places with pegs. When frosty weather sets in, the manure is taken out of the pits—the mole crickets have already settled in it for the winter—and is scattered. Insects freeze.
• In the spring, manure will also help. When laid out in heaps, it is attractive to females, who make nests there. After three weeks, having stirred up the piles, you can find and destroy both the female and the eggs there.
• Exotic method: beer trap. Pour some beer into the bottle and tie the neck with gauze. They dig it obliquely into the ground and sprinkle a little soil on top. The mole cricket “walks” close to the surface, the insect’s sense of smell is excellent. It is difficult for her to resist beer; having found a trap, the mole cricket gnaws through the gauze and rushes into the bottle. There's no way to get back out. In a couple of weeks you can catch a lot of alcohol lovers.

Insecticides are also toxic to humans, so it is better to use biological methods.

If the mole cricket is very annoying, it’s worth getting such a remedy.

Ants

Ants do not specifically attack cucumbers. But, settling in the covering soil - greenhouses, hotbeds, they arrange homes as convenient for them.

At the same time, they make many holes in the soil and gnaw through plant roots. An anthill in cucumbers is always inappropriate.

Therefore, ants, for all their usefulness, are also pests of cucumbers.

Repels ants:

• Sprinkling the ground with lime;
• Dusting the soil with ash;
• Destruction (digging) of anthills;
• Poisoned bait: sugar syrup – 100 g, borax – 5 g;
• The leaves of wormwood, mint, and tomatoes, laid out in a greenhouse, will not be liked by the ants; they will leave the anthill;
• Do not allow aphids to appear - they are to an ant what valerian is to a cat;
• The ant paths can be sprinkled with mustard powder or ground pepper;
• Using the harms of alcohol. If you add yeast to the jam, it will ferment. But it will remain attractive to ants. Drunk ants go astray, abandon their work, care for the larvae, and the queen. A few “banquets” and the anthill will be empty.

Slugs

A polyphagous, malicious pest of garden crops, the slug is very harmful.

Its oral apparatus is designed like a grater. This grater contains up to forty thousand hard teeth. It is not surprising that this “harvester” mows everything clean.

Loves everything and in all phases. The cucumber gets caught by the slug on the tooth during the germination, fruiting, and growth phases.

To protect crops and seedlings, the surface of the soil is sprinkled with ash. The slug doesn't like her and will go around her.

If the ash gets on the pest itself, it will shed the surface mucous layer and then be safely removed.

Repeated sprinkling may destroy it.

Like mole crickets, slugs can be lured into bottle traps using beer.

You can try the effect of the aptly named granular preparation “Slug Eater”. The granules are scattered on the soil. Apply before fruiting - once a season.

A modest but beloved vegetable, the cucumber is attacked by various pests. The gardener will have to arm himself with knowledge to determine who attacked.

The tactics for dealing with pests and getting rid of them are different in each case. It is important not to make a mistake - to recognize the “robber” and escort him out of his area in time.

Then a crispy cucumber will delight you both in summer and in winter - in the form of preparations.

See you soon, dear readers!

Sprout flies are common pests that feed on seedlings and seeds of agricultural plants. These flies are common in the European part of Russia, Belarus and Ukraine. Large populations are found in Central Asia and North America.

The activity of these pests causes significant damage to sunrises. Plants damaged by germ flies become susceptible to bacteria and fungi.

Features of the appearance of the germ fly

The eggs are 1 millimeter long. Color white.

The young larva of this fly is small in size - up to 1 millimeter. The body of the larva is completely transparent. The larva matures and its color changes, becoming white. Adult larvae are fleshy, they grow up to 7 millimeters in length, and their body color becomes dirty white. The larva has mandibles in the front part of its body.

The cocoon has an elongated shape and a rigid structure. There are denticles at the posterior end of the cocoon. The color is dirty yellow or brown.

Adult growth flies reach 3-6 millimeters in length. The color of the body is gray-yellow. There are 3 brown stripes on the back.

The head and abdomen are black. There is a black longitudinal stripe on the abdomen. The head is large with a velvet orange stripe. A distinctive feature of males is the hairs on the hind limbs in the form of a comb.

Nutrition process

Larvae at all stages of development are able to travel long distances. Having found germinating seeds, the larvae make holes in them. As a result, the sprout dies. The seeds of beans and other legumes can simultaneously contain about 30 worms.

Besides plant food, germ fly larvae feed on the larvae of other insects, such as locusts. If there is little food, then the larvae of germ flies move on to last year's plant debris.

Development of germ flies

Mating of growth flies occurs in mid-May, when birch trees bloom. The female looks for areas with moist soil and makes an ovipositor in them. The fertility of each female is about 60 eggs. The eggs take 2-6 weeks to develop.

The faces take 10-40 days to grow. If the weather is warm in the spring, the stages of growing up proceed faster. Pupae of the second and third generations overwinter in the soil, burrowing about 10 centimeters deep. Wintering occurs near grain crops and roots of forage grasses.

In early spring, adults awaken. The number of generations per season depends on the climate. For example, the maximum number of generations occurs in Transcaucasia; up to 4 generations can develop there.

Damage to agriculture

The biggest agricultural nuisance is caused by germ fly larvae. The most voracious is the first generation after wintering.

Sprout fly larvae feed various types cultivated plants: beets, cucumbers, beans, potatoes, melons, pumpkins, peas and watermelons. In addition, they eat the rhizomes of ball grasses, such as clover, alfalfa and sainfoin.

Delia platura, known as the sprout fly, is a common species of insect that feeds on seeds and seedlings of agricultural crops. Most often found in the European part of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus. Quite numerous populations live in Central Asia, Europe and North America.

The activity of these insects leads to significant thinning of seedlings. And damaged plants are susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections.

Description of the insect

Larva

At the larval stage, the insect is small in size (up to 1 millimeter), completely transparent. As they grow older, their body color changes and becomes whitish. The last instar larva is off-white in color, fleshy, about 7 millimeters long. There is no head. The mandibles are located at the anterior end of the body.

At any stage of development, it is capable of crawling long distances in search of food. Having reached the germinating seeds, the pest drills a hole in them, leading to the death of the sprout. Up to thirty worms can simultaneously crawl into the seeds of beans and other legumes.

The larvae's diet also consists of other insects at the larval stage of development (for example, representatives of the family). If necessary, fly larvae consume last year's plant debris. Larval development takes from ten to forty days. The warmer the weather in spring, the faster the stages of growing up pass.

Pupation occurs in the soil at a depth of seven to ten centimeters. The cocoon is hard (puparium), elongated, with denticles at the posterior end. Colored brown or dirty yellow. The size of the puparia is about 0.5 centimeters.

Pupae of the second (or third) generation remain overwintering at a depth of 10 centimeters. Wintering occurs near grain crops and rhizomes of forage grasses. Insects awaken in early spring.

Adult and reproduction

Flies fly out of cocoons in the third ten days of April. The size of adults is from 3 to 6 millimeters. Body color is yellow-gray. There are three brown stripes on the back. The abdomen and head are black. There is a longitudinal black stripe on the abdomen. The head is large with a velvety orange stripe.

Males are distinguished by the presence of comb-shaped hairs on their hind limbs.

In mid-May (approximately during the flowering of birches) mating occurs. The female looks for moist areas of soil where she lays her eggs. The size of each egg is up to 1 millimeter. White color. Fertility averages sixty eggs. The embryo develops from two to ten days.

The number of generations per year directly depends on the climate zone. IN middle lane the second generation develops in June, and the third at the end of July. The maximum number of generations in Transcaucasia is four generations per year. The pupal phase in warm climates takes a shorter period (up to 20 days).

Damage caused

The greatest damage to agriculture is caused by insects at the larval stage. The first generation that has passed the winter is particularly voracious.

These insects feed on many types of cultivated plants: cucumbers, potatoes, beets, beans, peas. They damage the sprouts of watermelons, pumpkins, and melons. They gnaw through the rhizomes of forage grasses (sainfoin, alfalfa, clover).

Penetrating into the cotyledons, the pests damage the seedling's exit site. They pierce small seeds right through, and eat out large cavities in the tubers.

Control measures

The following measures are of considerable importance for the destruction of flies and their larvae:

• deep digging or plowing of the soil in the fall with the application of organic fertilizers (manure), which cannot be left on the surface, as the strong smell attracts flies;
• weed control and removal of their remains from the site;
• timely planting of seeds to ensure rapid germination (flies cause less harm to grown plants).

Seeds must undergo pre-sowing treatment using. For example, “Fentiurama” (three grams per kilogram of seeds). In order for the preparation to adhere well to the seeds, they must first be dipped in a flour paste.

Vegetable seedlings are sprayed with Iskra (one tablet per bucket of water).

With the onset of spring, not only the first birds with sweet singing become active, but also annoying flies. Especially those who have not yet installed screens on their windows can experience all the “delights” of their behavior.

Flies fly overhead and buzz, they cannot be driven away, they land on tables and food, which is unhygienic and dangerous.

What does a fly look like?

In most cases, the fly is black, dark gray or green in color, it can reach up to 2 cm in length. It has three pairs of legs and two transparent wings.

The fly's head is pretty big size, on it you can clearly see two large reticulated eyes and a proboscis, which helps the insect consume liquid food. There are sticky pads on the paws, which allows the fly to move quietly around the ceiling.

What does a fly larva look like?

Flies reproduce by laying many eggs, which soon turn into larvae.

The larvae look like white worms with a sharp head, at the end of which there is a kind of jaw. The next stage of evolution is the transformation of the larva into a pupa, from which the fly hatches.

Tired of fighting pests?

Are there cockroaches, mice or other pests in your dacha or apartment? We need to fight them! They are carriers of serious diseases: salmonellosis, rabies.

Many summer residents are faced with pests that destroy crops and damage plants.

It has the following properties:

• Gets rid of mosquitoes, cockroaches, rodents, ants, bedbugs
• Safe for children and pets
• Powered by mains, no recharging required
• There is no addictive effect in pests
• Large area of ​​operation of the device

Fly damage

The harm of flies is as follows:

• First of all, the danger is that the fly is a carrier of many diseases. Once a fly has sat on food, it should not be consumed to avoid infection. All fruits and vegetables should always be washed before consumption. You should also not allow flies to get into fresh wounds, as they can introduce a dangerous infection into the blood. On their sticky paws they can bring diseases such as:
  • Tuberculosis.
  • Cholera.
  • Anthrax.
  • Diphtheria.
  • Dysentery.
  • Typhoid fever.
  • Helminthiasis.
  • Intestinal and food diseases.
  • Worms.
  • Tularemia.
• Another dangerous point is that fly eggs are very small in size, and they can be laid anywhere. And for products that can then be consumed unwashed. And, worst of all, on the human body, for example, in the ear or a deep wound. And the larvae hatching from the eggs will develop, eating the body from the inside, because this is a wonderful environment for their life.
• Fly larvae also harm the farm, destroying planted crops.
• There are varieties of flies that can bite humans. With their saliva, pathogenic viruses and bacteria can enter the body. Also, fly bites can be complicated and lead to serious consequences, including gangrene. If you are bitten by a fly, you must take everything preventive measures to avoid laying eggs under the skin and contracting a dangerous disease.

Stories from our readers!
“We spend the whole summer at the dacha, there are a lot of mosquitoes, flies and midges. It is impossible for either adults or children to be in the house, much less on the street. We purchased a lamp-trap on the advice of our neighbors.

We have been using the lamp for more than a month. We have forgotten about flying insects and are often outdoors in the evenings. We are very pleased with the result. I recommend to everyone."

Types of flies

Depending on their habitat, flies come in different types.

House flies

The most common type of fly that is always found near people. They are the ones who fly into apartments and houses and interfere with working in the garden or relaxing in nature. The fly is black in color and several sulfur stripes can be seen on its back. The length of a house fly often does not exceed 1 cm.

The favorite food of such flies is liquid products. Therefore, juices, compotes, soups, etc. spilled on the table will easily attract uninvited guests. The best products are located on fresh air cover with special nets, since a house fly landing on them can cause infection.

Onion flies

It is a pest for vegetable gardens, as it eats crops, mainly garlic and onions, hence its name. In addition to causing harm itself, it also lays its eggs near plants. The hatched larvae find the growing bulbs, climb into them and infect them from the inside.

Carrot flies

The fly acts on the principle of an onion fly - it infects the carrot crop itself, and, worst of all, lays its eggs there. very small in size, no more than 4 mm. It has a dark body, but an orange head and paws, and the wings are also yellow.

Carrot fly larvae are much yellower than ordinary ones, which makes them less noticeable against the background of carrots.

Sprout flies Flies are also crop pests. Beetroot, corn, cabbage, pumpkin and many other crops are most affected.

The fly lays its larvae in the soil, in which they themselves reach and eat both seeds and plants that have already begun to develop. The sprout fly is gray-yellow in color and reaches a length of no more than 6 mm.

The iris fly is very destructive for gardeners. She herself does not pose any particular danger, but her larvae are capable of destroying the flower from the inside. The fly lays its eggs in the iris buds that are beginning to bloom, where they grow and destroy the plant.

The iris fly has no distinctive features and can easily be confused with a simple house fly.

Fighting flies with folk remedies

In order to protect yourself from such unpleasant creatures as flies, you can use some folk methods:

Fly traps

In another article we discussed how to make . In this article we will touch on making fly traps.

In addition to the fact that you can scare away flies that are capable of flying into the house, you can make traps for those already present.

You can make such a trap yourself from plastic bottle. To do this, take the bottle and rinse it well. warm water. After this, you need to evenly cut off the top of the bottle, about one third. Then this top needs to be turned upside down and inserted into the bottle. The edges can be secured with a stapler or tape to prevent the cut part from falling further into the bottle.

When the structure is ready, you need to prepare a luring solution. For it, you just need to pour a few tablespoons of sugar into enough water to fill the bottle well, and heat it over the fire in a saucepan until the sugar is completely dissolved.

The resulting liquid should be poured into the prepared bottle and a few other baits should be added, for example, an apple, caramels or honey.

To prevent uninvited guests in the form of bees from flocking to the fragrant trap, you can add just a little vinegar to the bottle.

The bottle should be placed in a sunny place, on a windowsill or table. When it warms up well in the sun, it will emit an aroma that is more attractive to flies. The trap works in such a way that, having flown inside through the neck, the fly will fall into the sticky liquid and even if it doesn’t stick right away, it most likely won’t fly back out.

After a large number of caught flies have collected in the trap, it must be thrown out and, if necessary, a new one made.

If you use at least a couple of ways to combat enemies such as flies, you can forget for a season about their existence and the harm they bring to a person, his health, and his harvest.